Masterclass on the Muzzle Loading Percussion Rifle - Part 4 Load Development Continued

[@dennisgriffey8448]

I'm 58 and have been shooting muzzleloaders for 50 years. I only thought I knew how to shoot them. Thanks for the information.

[@KireDalbo]

I'm just getting into muzzleloading rifles, and your videos are very educational and have lots of useful information for me. Thank you so much for uploading and helping me get into a new hobby!

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

My pleasure, good luck.

[@gregggibson3109]

Thanks again, for taking the time and spending the energy to produce this series of videos. For me, an off & on BP shooter since the 70’s, this was the most informative of the series thus far and confirmed where my research has led me in regard to proper lubrication of patching material. I also enjoyed your insights relative to measuring, locating and testing differing patching material. Thanks again!

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

Thanks for watching.

[@jeffreyrobinson3555]

Been shooting traditional ML since 1970s. Except to keep used to the guns for self defense all my sport shooting has been ml and mostly flintlock. Almost fifty years. So I didn’t learn anything from these vids. However very much enjoyed them. Very good presentation and very informative. Well done sir.

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

Thank you.

[@jeffreyrobinson3555]

@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 just subscribed

[@donschutte1418]

Thank you very much sir I have been shooting all guns for 62 years black powder mostly the last 20 your explanation of the experimentation it takes to consistently find accuracy from a front stuffer is perfect I had a target on the wall 10 rounds in 1.5 x1.75 inches at 100 yards 54 cal flint rifle.

[@carsonb3914]

Thanks for the advice not greasy Esther,

[@pjh9104]

Outstanding.Crucial details born of experience.Thank You.

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@go911boy]

Really good thank you sir.

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

Thanks for watching

[@ar1chris1]

Or just make wads for between powder and ball with the moosemilk or do both?

[@appalachianbushcraft3959]

Would there be a recommendation to start with ballistol and water mix without trying every mixture? I have a .32 pedersoli that I can not get to shoot. Patches look fine but groups are horrible. However I am using a dry felt wad to help with lube migration and it seems to help accuracy some. I picked up some .018 pillow ticking that has a compressed measurement of .015. My balls are .310 dia and current patch is a .010 oiled cotton patch. First 2 shots are good then all the rest are wild fliers with every charge from 15-40 grains of 2F goex. I swab between every shot and all shots are taken from sandbags at 50yds. I have tried wonder lube and oil with same horrible results. I do have a feeling that the wad is protecting the patch that otherwise would be shredded or torn. My squirrel season already started and I don’t need pinpoint accuracy just good enough for squirrels. I read 6-1 comes up a lot but you seem really knowledgeable and I would like your opinion sir…

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

My first suggestion is switch to 3-f powder. Your bore is too small for 2-f. Ditch the wad between powder and patched ball. Lube migration into powder isn't as much of an issue as some believe. Clean ALL the bore butter residue out of your barrel. Some rifles just will not group until that gunk is removed. Wash your patching fabric to remove starch and sizing before you lube it. The water to oil ratio is dependent on local humidity conditions as well as your rifle bore. What works for everyone else will not necessarily work for your rifle. Until you have the time to do a total load work up I would suggest using spit or mixing up some moose milk and spritzing just a bit to slightly moisten your patch. 32 calibers are known to be finicky about the loads they will shoot well. There are no short cuts when it comes to load development. We just can't predict what your rifle needs to shoot good groups. You have to work through the process to find it. You are doing some things right. Take the time that it takes to do the load work. Do it in order, do it once, find the magic combination your rifle likes, and then don't change a thing. You won't finish the process in a day, it takes time. But there is no reason you can't hunt with the gun before it's all finished. Good luck.

[@ar1chris1]

Could you use ballistol and beeswax on percussion revolvers for lube over balls?

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

In my revolver, I don't use lube over the ball. The bullets are lubed with a 50/50 mix of lamb tallow and beeswax. I put a lubed wad between powder and ball.

[@johnhoward7298]

I'm new to b/p rifles . I just bought My first b/p rifle , a .32 cal. Cva scout . I need a ramrod for it that is able to take a bore brush & cleaning jag & swab . I need all of those too . I don't know where to buy any of them .

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

Track of the Wolf, Dixie gun works are two. A Google search will show others.

[@johnhoward7298]

@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 Thank You ! I'll look on Dixie Gun Works ( They're the closest to Me ) . People look at Me like I have two heads when I ask about something for a .32 cal rifle !

[@widowsson1478]

Thank you very much for your patient and clear explanation. Do shallow riflings generally require a thicker fabric?

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

I find deeper groves need thicker patch material. Shallow groves shoot well with thinner. Shallow groves also seem to be more forgiving with lube selection as well. But every rifle is different thus the need to test all the variables.

[@bothorson8913]

I am a handgun hunter that is new to muzzle loading. Great videos. I have used ballistol for years for multiple uses. Was wondering, once lubed, will patching material stay “moist” and useable for an extended period of time between shooting sections? Or is this a procedure to do leading up to shooting.

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

After the water has evaporated the patching will feel dry. I roll up the strips and store them in a plastic zip-lock bag. Typically, I do enough to last a year at one batch. Even though the patching feels dry the oil remains, when the ball is started, oil is squeezed out to the surface of the cloth. When hunting, or at an event I put one or two rolls into the shooting bag. Between events, I keep them in the baggie. Have yet to have any "dry up".

[@bothorson8913]

Thank you. Excellent info I will make up some strips today yet!

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

@@bothorson8913 I think you will like it.

[@swamprat9018]

I'll second the Ballistal/water patch lube. Best I've found.

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

Yes, if your local gun shop does not stock it you can order it on line.

[@marcogram1216]

It's also good for upset stomach. The old guys in Switzerland still use it for that. No joking.

[@357bullfrog9]

What ratio do you use ballistol and water?

[@swamprat9018]

@@357bullfrog9 5:1 but I don't measure exact but 4:1 to 6:1 is my ball park.

[@swamprat9018]

@@357bullfrog9 after it dries and you touch it you should feel just a slight oil on your fingers. That is my measurement of if I got it right.

[@Strutingeagle]

The starting loads equaling the caliber doesn't really make sense. For example a 50 caliber ball weights 180 grains and a 54 cal round ball weighs 230 grains. So for a starting load for the 54 cal it would only be 4 grains more than the 50 for a 50 grain increase in ball weight. For 58 cal it would be an 8 grain incrase over the 50 cal driving a 280 grain ball with only 8 grains more powder. The problem gets much worse as the caliber increases. Does it really matter? I don't think so too much but there does seem to be a lot of bs in this hobby. This and the "pipe bomb" effect for not putting the ball all the way down on the powder charge are two of many examples.

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

I understand your point. One could start with a lighter charge. I have just found the caliber load to be a safe place to begin load development.

[@Strutingeagle]

@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 Well one can double load a muzzleloader at a max charge and be safe. That is if you aren't putting the butt plate up against your chin. The revolvers have a safety concern because of the thin cylinder walls. A better recommendation is three quarters the max load the manufacturers recommend. That recommendation will have safety attached to it, to cover their butts, but it is more a max recommended load for powder efficiency. You can fill the barrel up with the stuff and get no more velocity and a lot more recoil. If one wants to lower the powder charge for target shooting or small game hunting it is easy and safe. That does work out well for the 50 cal but the 32 cal boys are shooting a pretty stiff load by your recommendation and very light for the 58 boys. If someone goes out shooting black powder, there should be some research done prior to going out as to max charge and target loads and adust accordingly when they get to know their gun and needs better.

[@357bullfrog9]

If caps would just come back on the market. I'm stuck with none. I didn't think to hoard

[@traditionalmuzzleloader4983]

I hear you. There are caps available, but the price gouging is terrible. I guess I might be guilty of "hoarding" because I buy caps and powder in quantities to last three years of my shooting schedule. It's just more economic to order in bulk and save on the haz-mat shipping fees.

[@357bullfrog9]

@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 you were smart. Lol I was a slacker