Masterclass: Perfect Jointer-Planer-Thicknesser Setup!

Get your machine to its peak performance with this Masterclass at the Jointer-Planer-Thicknesser with me, Steve Maskery.
Here is everything you need to know to get your machine singing sweetly, from understanding the mechanics of the machine, fixing table problems, and how you should set up your knives to give a clean, snipe-free finish.
This is a long watch, because there is a lot to talk about, so make a big brew, grab a sandwich, sit back and enjoy the ride. This is the film I wish I had been able to watch when I got my first machine.

[@thorlo1278]

I am from the USA, but you did such a great job of describing what needed to be done, no one else could have done a better job! Yes it was long, but by explaining the exact process of what needed to be done. Your videos are always great to watch. 👍👍

[@davidcoleman6032]

Fantastic video! Very interesting and informative. Thank you very much. 👍

[@robbiekingston6303]

absolutely excellent tutorial steve. i got a crocked up looking hc 260 six months ago' thinking id have it sorted in no time, but it was only after seeing this presentation that i got it all spot on today. your method of presentation is top notch, covering every problem, why they occur and how to fix them. thanks to you, i now have a machine that does what it should do, very well. thank you very much for all the time you've put into making such a perfect video.

[@SteveMaskery]

Thatnk yiou for the great feedback, much appreciated.

[@owakipascuda]

Thank you very much for the video. I'm going to sharpen and set up knives on my Record Power 107. What I just saw helped me greatly.

[@neilvickyharvey4139]

Thanks Steve, I didnt realise i could adjust the infeed roller tension until i watched your video.

[@MrPatdeeee]

Leave it to Steve; to make things right. Thank you kind Sir. I have gone through your frustrations with my "Jointer/Planer" (across the "pond"). And it took forever to get it right. Oh well. Dang dem "mana fact urs"!

[@nathanshaw1644]

Just bought a second hand p/t having never used one before. That explanation and demonstration of the feed rollers was gold. Thank you for explaining it so well 👍

[@craigredfern5309]

Great informative video. Nice to find a good knowledgeable guy to explain things well. Got my machine running absolutely perfect now.

[@SteveMaskery]

pleased to hear it.

[@michaelhince3519]

Thanks for your reply that is my problem but your right your method seem to fit the bill love your video cheers

[@leslieorosz6634]

You did a great of how to maintain the machine and explained how they worked 👍👌

[@malcolmjames1866]

Good vid, Steve.

[@hossenfeffer8383]

Brilliant, thank you so much. I wanted you to know how much a newbie appreciates your experience and knowledge. ❤

[@TheMysticABC]

Great video Steve I have just bought a second hand Kity 637 and this video was really useful as what you have looks like a Kity 636 or 637 Your videos are really clear , informative and at a good pace giving one a chance to absorb what you are saying I do not have a manual for my one, so finding where the roller tension adjusting screws will be a bit trial and error as your video dod not show that Weel done all round and thanks for putting up that video

[@setsappa1540]

Thank you!

[@richardscott9797]

Marvelous!! Thank you. I've learned a lot.

[@middleagedpunk8923]

After cluelessly spending several frustrating hours trying to set up my new (to me at least) thicknesser/planer, I realised that I needed some expert guidance and this superb video gave me exactly that. Though it's pretty obvious in hindsight that these precise machines need precisely 'tuning', it's only truly apparent when you start the actual work itself, and in the process realising that the previous owner also clearly had absolutely no idea what they were trying to adjust where when and how and presumably just gave up on it and stuck it on Marketplace. Certainly my gain, as fast forward 4 hours and I was just stunned how I was machining oak planks to perfection, particularly as although the machine is good quality German built kit, had it been a car in Auto Trader, it would definitely have been in the 'bangers' section. I can't thank you enough Steve for what is, exactly as the title says, a 'masterclass' in setting up a thicknesser/planer and I'm absolutely certain that this new found knowledge is going to take my woodworking to a whole new dimension.

[@arjantippe]

Excellent video! Thnx so much!

[@ralphbow3]

Happy I stumbled upon your channel, I bought an old INCA 343.132 and it's impossible to find videos about this, but the mechanics are very similar to this. Great stuff, thank you.

[@stevepearson8791]

Very useful 👍

[@supershooter49]

Very good

[@thehobbymachinistnz]

This is a great video, packed with useful information. I have just purchased a second hand Elekra-Beckum HC260 and this video will help me setup the tables and blades for best performance. Thank you.

[@Mastering3d]

Excellent video thank you .

[@akarandom1]

I set up these machines at work, and when I want to make sure both sides are the same I do a similar action of rotating the blade and dragging the wood. Before I drag the wood. I make a small mark on the wood with the wood 50mm past the blade, there abouts anyway. I mark from the edge of the in feed table, Rotate the blade and mark again from the edge of the indeed table. 4mm movement is about right. Then I move my block to the other side like you did and adjust until the block moves the same 4mm. If your tape is on an angle your marks may also be slightly inaccurate. I do this often enough that I use the same block every time and use the same marks from the first time I set it up. Hope It makes sense. I have a 1mm tolerance and if one side is being tricky I make sure the other blades are better. All our machines have 3 blades and I can usually get a 2.5meter length of wood dead straight without too much mucking around. At both ends of the blade. If the blade is angled it can introduce a twist into a long wide length. Or one side of the blade is perfect and the other side of the blade may cut too much or not enough

[@alextemple2810]

I liked your explanation of why the knives need to be just proud of the out-feed table. But the depth of the little arcs will depend somewhat on the speed you feed the work through. You should get a smoother surface by feeding more slowly. On the other hand, at college I was told off for feeding too slowly as then the knives are just scraping and not cutting, and it's not good for them. It could even lead to burning.

[@mikevyvyan7060]

Thanks Steve! Excellent content and great presentation. If only this video had been about a couple of years ago. My planer/thicknesser was great as a planer (on the top) but the results from the thicknesser were unacceptable. I was so frustrated by my inability to get a good result that I bought a separate thicknesser. This has proved to be an expensive but positive solution. But of course it creates a further space issue in a smallish workshop. If I had had the detailed knowledge you shared in this video perhaps I could have saved myself a few hundred pounds and a great deal of frustration. Can I plead with you address - in a future video - the other problem, which despite research, effort and considerable expense has defeated my quest for a solution. A cabinet saw that keeps clogging up with saw dust - grrr. When I retired I set out to become a competent woodworker not a machine engineer. So thanks again for this valuable input: at least I now know how to master this machine.

[@TrevorDennis100]

'A bit of support on the way out.' What exactly does that mean? Do we push the workpiece down onto the outfeed table? I've used a dedicated jointer at my Menz Shed for several years, but none of us have really got on with it. The outfeed table is also on an angled bed, so it can't help but remain parallel to the infeed table. It has HSS blades which I set up using 1-2-3 blocks and a DTI and each end of both blades is nicely aligned with the outfeed table. We had a DeWalt thicknesser for several years, but a problem with both machines was that few of the Shed members have any sort of training, (I am a retired engineer who started as a toolmaking apprentice, and finishing as a design engineer) so the machines tended to be abused. The thicknesser in particular was forever leaving tiny ridges on the workpiece because someone had nicked the blades with nails/pins in the timber. The rollers were also forever slipping on that thicknesser. We now have a 15" thicknesser from MACMA which is solid. It has a helical head, but I still get snipe sometimes. Another problem is that someone always wants to help you when using the thicknesser by taking control of the outfeed table, and gets upset if you tell them you'd rather do it yourself. I have a decent workshop at home and can do everything except jointing and thicknessing, so I have ordered a HAFCO PT-254S from Machinery House here in New Zealand. It has a similar design to yours, and I am hoping that being the only person using it, I can keep it setup properly and not abuse it. I am still concerned about snipe though. At the moment I have at least one piece that has enough redundant length to run through with the other workpieces. Even that approach can be problematic at my Menz Shed as the insistent helper on the outfeed table does not understand the necessity of keeping the shorter pieces ahead of the long one, so when they slip and long piece catches up, you have snipe on them again. Explaining this can be hard when your helper thinks they 'know what they are doing'. Having my own machine, I am hoping to keep the feed rollers properly adjusted and the tables waxed so everything works as it should.

[@akarandom1]

I must say that was the most comprehensive setup videos I've seen. I learned something about tapping the block to raise the blade back up again. I usually loosen the bolts a tad and tighten again to allow the blade to be pressed up by the springs. Not that all are still there anymore unfortunately. The boss has no interest in replacing them either.

[@SteveMaskery]

Thank you Scott. I did try to make it as comprehensive as possible,especially the bit about the blades being higher than the outfeed table. I've watched more then one video of people saying that they should be the same, people whom I thought should have known better. And yes, you can do the drag test the way you do. There is more than one way to skin a cat, eh?

[@MrSnookerballs]

@@SteveMaskery if the blade is higher than the outfeed table does that not make the timber rock downward as you change the pressure down on the out table. there will be a gap between the timber and the out table surely.

[@SteveMaskery]

@@MrSnookerballs No, because the surface is very slightly rippled. Warch it again, as I explain the difference between TDC of the cut and the points between the scollops.

[@Kurdos20000]

watching you, worth every second, thank you for the priceless info :)

[@164164piotr]

Perfect video. Thank you Steve

[@raymondjensen4603]

I just love the British.

[@josearistidessouzasantos9313]

Parabéns benção de Deus

[@bensonyoutuber7944]

I have a similar machine that I got very used and missing the fence. I had given up on it to a large degree and had started saving for separate machines. But I’ll give it one more go after I get some measuring /precision equipment. I think I understand what I’m going for now with the adjustments.

[@SteveMaskery]

Do give it a whirl. Yes they are built down to a price and have aluminium tables rather than cast iron ones, but, once they are set up properly, thry perform very nicely. In 20 years I've got through a couple of drive belts and had to replace a bushing, so I don't think that is too bad, really.

[@KiwiKeebs]

Great video as usual! I am having issues with my main drive pulley it looks like the previous owner bodged it on. Do you have any pictures / footage of the removal and mounting style for the drive pulley? Thanks!

[@Woodgate425]

Excellent video as always Steve, well thought out, well presented and easy to follow. Not only informative but entertaining as well. I’ve got your DVDs and I might be right in thinking that the blade honing block is featured in one for them? I’ll have a look anyway. Table saw next??

[@SteveMaskery]

I don't think it is actually, but a few people have asked about it. so I might well do a follow up. I've also made the gadget for polishing the backs of the knives that I mused about whilst actually doing the filming. It works very well. So there is always more to show.

[@harrylenton9984]

The difference in the depths of the scallops is what has cleared up why the outfeed table isn't set at the same height as the tops of the blades. No matter how tiny. First video I have seen that explained this. Great info, thank you

[@michaelhelme3575]

Hi Steve. Great video, I have a similar machine, it's an Elekra-Beckum HC320 which uses a central column to carry the thicknessing table. I haven't had to adjust this but I guess it would be easier than having four screws? This machine dates from 1996 and was German made.

[@SteveMaskery]

Hi Michael, I've never had to adjust a machine like that, so I can't really help you on that point. But I'm glad you enjoyed my film!

[@arnolddupreez5462]

Hi Micheal. I also have the same Electra H320 planner and am also looking for for this type of teaching. Let me know if you find out. Thanks.

[@guillermo7777]

I just bought my very first jointer combo, I’ve never ever used one at all, little scary i must say, but confident that after watching, this great tutorial, ill be fine, hope, but anyways thanks so much for taking the time for us that we don’t have a teacher to teach us how to even star, thanks, and one Q, the one I bought is used, very old one, and i check a looks like the in feet table has a cup on the center of it, any suggestions on what to do? The out feet table looks flat, appreciate any help, thanks greetings from Bolivia,

[@SteveMaskery]

Don't worry about it, mine is the same. Infeed tables wear faster than outfeed tables because the wood is rough as it goes into the knives and smooth after they come off. That roughness makes them more abrasive, so the tables wear. It's worse on aluminium tables like mine, rather than cast iro tables. As long as your knives are straight, the fence is vertical and the outfeed table is flat, you should get good results.

[@guillermo7777]

Thanks for the advice now that you say that i feel better, was even thinking to take it apart and take it to a machine shop, which there are bunch around here, eve one few block from my house, but I’ll use like that for now, but is a game changer having one of this machines, here they don’t sell mill lumber, they sell rough only, and this machine will save me lot o time finally, so thanks again and keep it up the the great tutorials

[@mattwatts4323]

Fantastic video. I have just purchased on of these. I am familiar this PT’s in general and have used newer bigger ones. However my 637 beds are not in coplanar. What is the recommended fix for this?

[@SteveMaskery]

I'm afraid the fix is just persuasion with a mallet....

[@yankapoodle]

Hi Steve. Thanks for the video. It was really helpful. Why do you lubricate your chains with? They look much better kept than mine. Thanks. Michael.

[@SteveMaskery]

Lol! I can't remember the last time I lubricated it. I probably should. I'd use a dry lube so as not to get caked up with sawdust. Not that much gets in there anyway.

[@michaelhince3519]

Hi Steve me again do you have the set up the tables to suit the head as this will make a difference to the thicknesser ?

[@SteveMaskery]

On my machine the head is not adjustable. so the thicknessing table has to be set to that. If it's not right you have to adjust the chain, one tooth at a time. I've never had to do that, fortunately. Then get the tables co-planar, then set the knives. It's a 3-way balance.

[@michaelhince3519]

Hi Steve just a question how do you make Shurdington the beds are wiring with cutter block?

[@SteveMaskery]

I'm sorry Michael, I don't understand what you mean.

[@menamsaadawi4042]

I have a question, is it necessary for the floor under the machine to be in a state of balance or stillness, because I might disassemble the two tables?

[@SteveMaskery]

Do you mean your machine wobbles on an uneven floor? If so, I would definitely shim up the corner to make it steady, yes. I don't really understand why that is relevant to disassembling the tables though, to be honest. But Yes, definitely stop it from rocking.

[@menamsaadawi4042]

@@SteveMaskery My machine is very different from the one you have because it contains four screws in each table. I want to make the frame in a scale condition and then weigh each screw with the laser scale. If you have WhatsApp, I can contact you in I want to send you pictures so that you understand because The machine that I have is Italian

[@SteveMaskery]

@@menamsaadawi4042 Please email me, [e-mail], and I'll send you my WhatsApp details.

[@michaelhince3519]

Hi does the ammout the blade sticks out manual says 1.8mm?

[@SteveMaskery]

I don't know what you would measure from, to be honest. 1.8mm out of the cutter block, maybe, but I don't know how you would measure that. 1.8mm above the outfeed taqble would be far too much. The drag test might look crude, but it is the established way to set these machines up and it works very well.