MAZDA 3 THERMOSTAT REPLACMENT EASY QUICK 2008 2.0L p0128 p0126 thermastat

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The the essential info on how to replace the thermostat on your Mazda 3 2.0L This one had a P0128 and was only heating up to 165°F even after 30min of idling `
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[@Dave84King]

straight to the point. crystal clear...

[@eduardozapatateuber9730]

Exactly! 🤘🏻

[@DonziGT230]

Removing the belt and tensioner is optional.

[@brianphelan685]

Short and sweet, just what i needed. Thanks chief!

[@detailerdetalhistapolidor1827]

Man you just saved my life today !!!!

[@bromack2353]

Thanks for sharing the knowledge

[@tsniii3452]

Perfect Thanks for the help

[@pedrotalavera3541]

Great video. Thanks

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

On Amazon: *TOP SCAN TOOL/CODE READERS: amzn.to/2PQIrEF

[@danielcrowder8841]

Thanks

[@Good-Enuff-Garage]

thanks for the video on my 2010 2.5L I was able to yank the thermostat out without removing the belt cause on my model the tensioner aint in that location its actually the idler pulley or sum shiet, anyway thank you

[@clarencewiles963]

Thumbs up 👍 short and done ✅

[@markdale278]

Good video ✌

[@unorthodocx908]

Bro thank youuu

[@jeezyeasy]

Is it necessary to remove the serpentine belt for this job. My friend has the exact same year and model Mazda but the belt is so tight even when i adjust the tensioner belt. Just a bit more difficult but possible right?

[@wutUthinkinBro]

you rock, short and sweet and to the point! question, what is the purpose of the silicone? and moving the belt is a must?

[@Graham_Langley]

Holds the bolts in place while offering up the thermostat and removing the tensioner is as per the Mazda workshop manual. I can see the point of pre-loading the lowest bolt and removing the tensioner is minor issue - I'd not like to attempt it with it in place.

[@Graham_Langley]

Having now changed the 'stat on my '06 Mazda3 Sport (as the 2l was called here in the UK) I pre-loaded the bolts but had no need to retain them in place.

[@ItzDarealJacquan]

one day it was no lights on the dash I smashed the gas to get over now this light here for both codes, my car cuts off thou .

[@joshyjams55]

I just replaced mine and the sensor last year. It's back, and what I want to know if it really could be bad again already.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Joshua Andrade did you use an after-market one? It's not unheard of for them to go bad that quickly. Also did you use silicone or anything on the housing? Sometimes if you use too much, it can get in there and jam up the new thermostat

[@joshyjams55]

NoNonsenseKnowHow Stant apperantly its very relative to Stant or better than OEM. No silicone.

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

Joshua Andrade yeah I've never had a problem with stant thermostats. Is the car getting up to temperature? As in around 200 degrees? And do you have a scan tool?

[@joshyjams55]

Warms up slow I feel, but gets to 85+ degress Celsius after about 10 minutes of driving. I got a p0128 code and p0118. ECT and Thermostat light is still on but car runs fine. Taking it in to mazda thursday, but wondering your opinion. Should I replace those parts again or could it be anything else. Maybe an emissions problem ?

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

@@joshyjams55 it could have a faulty engine coolant temperature sensor. Honestly it's hard to really troubleshoot over text message.

[@tonyter3367]

I remember when cars were easy to work on you really didn't have to remove anything now of day you basically have to remove basically the whole motor

[@80bicho]

Should I purchase the thermostat from the dealer $94 or from local part store $51 is there a big difference other than the price?

[@Graham_Langley]

UK here. I've got to do the one on my 2l BK so reasoning it would be a FoMoCo part I cross-referenced the Ford part number and found a Ford dealer outlet on eBay UK selling them for £30.99 delivered compared to the stated list price of £54.29. Genuine boxed Ford part 5157411, made in Mexico.

[@jazzmoney4520]

No need for the original part.

[@mztouchofclazz]

Hi! Would this be the same process for the Mazda 5?

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

To be honest with you I'm not sure off hand. If you find it is the same, comment back and let me know. I'll update the description for people in the future. Thanks and sorry I couldn't be of more help

[@mztouchofclazz]

Sounds good! I’ll let you know. Thanks!

[@9manny99]

Aeisha Massengale Was it?

[@HotSizzleTV_]

where is the link for this part?

[@garymack4650]

Why you didn't cover the alternator with plastic?

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

I'm not sure which part of the video you're referring to but drain your coolant first.

[@garymack4650]

@@NoNonsenseKnowHow drain the coolant on the alternator, ok then

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

drain system first. bottom. @@garymack4650

[@stackflow343]

cuz you drain from the rad, bottom driver side. then the rag you have under the housing will catch the splash. which ain't gonna kill the alt anyway. mine didn't even splash the rag it just flowed down the block.

[@cameroncabrera6476]

Instructions unclear there is transmission fluid in my radiator

[@user-qp5dw5us2u]

WHAT NO LIFE STORY YOU GET BOUNUS POINTS

[@yourfacelookslikebut]

Great video thanks

[@NoNonsenseKnowHow]

No prob!