Mazda Miata Alternator Removal

[@Violianom]

This is exactly how my 1997 NA8 Miata is setup. It's been driving me crazy since all the other videos online are NA6. Thanks for the tutorial! Neat to know the NB and NA8 share the same alternator.

[@nevrlow]

For those who have issues removing the plug it’s likely because there is dirt around the push tap preventing it from releasing. Spray a little brake cleaner or any liquid directly near the push tab. This helps loosen the dirt. Little trick I learned wrenching for a Hyundai dealership for a few years.

[@boughtamiata]

Thanks for sharing, @Nevrlow!

[@goodeggproductions]

Great video. My alternator has developed a high pitched squeal after running for a while and I'll be replacing it. This was the best no-nonsense step by step I've seen for removal. Thanks!!

[@boughtamiata]

goodeggpro Thanks for the feedback, I hope it helped!

[@vn.ninefive]

Great lighting on the specific parts and great camera angles as well! This is a very tight and cluttered area, so good lighting and camera angles are a must-have for a proper instructional video!

[@acidbombquick2919]

nice, needed this today. only difference was that you can reach the bottom bolt holding the alternator by removing the manifold brace(3 bolts). this saves you from needing to get under the car.

[@mandeo10]

To remove the long lower pivot bolt you first need to remove the aluminium support bracket that goes from the inlet chamber to the engine block. (In my case two bolts,quite easy) With a long 1/2"extension and a UJ and 14mm six point socket you can remove the lower pivot bolt from inside the right hand wheel arch after putting the steering over to full lock. Not at all difficult if you have the extension and a UJ.

[@nugenki]

Nice! I have much more confidence now. That wrench trick is really cool. My headunit turns off randomly, and if I turn on my headlights, it turns off and then back on. Can't wait to see if this fixes it.

[@boughtamiata]

Thanks, for the comment! Hope that works for you. I realize now that the dying alternator was probably the cause of a lot of weird things happening. I started hearing the fuel pump pulsing when my signals were on. My flasher relay died, perhaps from the voltage drops. Also, when turning off my wipers, sometimes they'd just stop in the middle of the windshield. ,

[@jacksimms9361]

Nugenrules dude I have the same problem, did it fix it?

[@iangore8077]

Really great video - showed exactly how to get at that awkward bottom bolt, and the wrench trick worked perfectly. Thanks for sharing!

[@wils_builds]

Great vid! We need more Miata videos on your channel!

[@tedshen1716]

VERY GOOD VIDEO! My 95 Na miata also has this design that the bolt locking the alternator up is at the rear. Will work on it tomorrow.

[@jimspamfolder]

There are three more bolts and and the intake manifold support bracket that have to be removed. If they are not removed the bracket will not allow the alternator bolt to come out because it hits the support bracket. Look under the intake, behind the alternator and you will see the bracket its a bright shiny aluminum alloy It attaches to the bottom of the intake manifold and to the engine block down below. If you got long arms like me you can use a 14mm deep well socket and a 3/8 ratchet to get to the bottom one then take the two out up top with the same ratchet and socket but using an extension this time. The alternator WILL come out thru the top of the engine compartment if you hold your mouth right. For those who don't know what that means it means this. Take your time and move the alternator around back and forth till you wiggle it out. "This is the way." On my 1999 anyhow.

[@salpal30]

Did this and it worked for my 99, i dont want to take out the splash guard or can use a jack since its muddy where i am, thanks alot

[@aditironci1944]

the alternator never dies bro.

[@charliewayne220]

lol you know I just finished swapping out my alternator belt and your video would have saved me alot of hassle in trying to figure out how to loosen that bolt in the back to so that the alternator would pivot. None of the belt videos were quite as clear as yours.

[@Dmarshall072]

This is a proper informative video given me the confidence to do this myself thanks a bunch

[@Chris-lz9zf]

This is the best instructional car video I've seen. Great work!

[@elieli8368]

Nice, short and the point..... Excellent...

[@charliewayne220]

my man I think you left a couple steps out. First of all, that bolt behind the alternator is impossible to get out unless you also remove or loosen the intake support bracket. Also, it was a nightmare getting my alternator out of the car once it was disconnected. The only way I could get it out was by removing my fans for extra space. It would have been nice knowing the hard parts going into this job.

[@rakenBattalion]

the hard part is getting the bolt out. Everything else is a minor inconvenience

[@AlanSlopey]

This video didn't show removing the intake manifold support bracket. Which on a stock 99 needs to be removed to remove the bottom pivot bolt.

[@boughtamiata]

Yeah, I admit I totally forgot about that. To be honest, I haven't run with that for decades. You're gonna hear a lot of conjecture from newbies about it being needed. I'm gonna say that I have stiff motor mounts and a heavy supercharger on the top of the engine, and a lot of NVH. That brace never did anything useful or risked any damage. Chuck it and never look back.

[@RootSuitMan]

Great video, same exact miata as mine. Thanks!

[@melody3741]

for me there is a piece of metal blocking the bottom bolt! plus I can't seem to get the plug out..

[@SH1051]

Melody same comment as acid bomb quick below. That's the manifold brace that holds up the huge metal air intake hanging above. there are 2 bog bolts at the top and at the bottom, very easy to take out. I've been running without this bracket for several years without issue. when you take out the plug, check to see if there's a small bolt holding it down.

[@melody3741]

Ahahaha turns out that the plug had previously caught on fire and had melted into one big chunk and that's why it was so hard to get out. I used some pliers and ripped the solder joints right out of the alternator and saw a big burned mess. And yup found out about the intake brace but I'm gonna put it back when I'm done

[@schneir5]

My alternator bolt in my 1995 Miata is going in the opposite direction. I can't get a socket back there to even fit, and to make things worse I just removed the water pump pulley when I just replaced the water pump and timing belt and accessory belts, but then when I put coolant in it it leaked like crazy, so when I went to take it back apart two of the three water pump pulley bolts snapped!!! I basically have to figure out a way to break that bolt loose, so that I can adjust the belt tension properly, with the alternator rather than trying to line up and screw in three screws, while putting the necessary tension on them for the belt.

[@boughtamiata]

Richie Schneider Hi Richie, I feel your pain and hope you got it sorted out. There are some tools I''ve learned I can't do without, despite being a cheapskate. 1. A small impact driver - I don't know why I wasted so much time and money on stripped bolts without one. 2. PB Blaster, indispensable. 3. 6 point sockets and wrenches. I never use 12 point unless necessary now. The Mazda bolts are very soft, so they don't tear up the aluminum block. But 12 points rounded too many heads. No longer an issue. 4. A bolt extractor set. Nobody wants to spend money on it, but it'll save you time, especially when the car is down, unless you have 2 cars.

[@schneir5]

Redcaps Roadster thanks, I did end up getting it fixed. I removed the intake plenum support that was blocking the alternator bolt. It was still pretty hard to break that bolt loose!

[@Nebbia_affaraccimiei]

not sure why you can't reach the alternator locking bolt, my standard socket wrench fits easilly.

[@schneir5]

Nebbia affaraccimiei does the bolt go in from the front of the engine to the back, or the opposite? If it's front to back that is easy, but if it's back to front like mine it's not easy even with the intake manifold brace removed.

[@Nebbia_affaraccimiei]

Richie Schneider back to front like all NA I've seen..

[@CharlieFrancis-x8b]

Yeah, and on some of them, step 1 - break out the oxyacetylene torch for the siezed pivot bolt.

[@jerrystevens7001]

Great video quality and very informative

[@boughtamiata]

Jerry Stevens Thanks, Jerry, I hope it helped!

[@TheWolfricChannel]

What sizes ??

[@boughtamiata]

Just to to any automotive parts store and tell them the exact year of your Miata. Then ask for an alternator belt. If you go to RockAuto.com, it'll just assign the exact belt when you put in your car info. I could just tell you, but then you miss out on the learning part. Belts WILL stretch a little once they wear in, so I always assume a follow up tightening. IME, not necessary to buy the most expensive brand, but worth avoiding the economy brands at the bottom of the price range.

[@boughtamiata]

An exact size isn't absolutely necessary. Since you can adjust the tightener, if the belt is a little longer, it's usually fine. The belt number is basically the length, specified in either inches or mm. So if a store offers an "equivalent" or alternate size, use that as a data point to compare.

[@TheWolfricChannel]

No dude. The wrenches

[@icarrera6969]

Okay you already had the manifold brace off , should have comment that you need to remove it to get the bottom bolt off ....a 14 mm angle box end with 1/2 pipe makes the removal easy.

[@CancelledMcCree]

Would it be the same for a 1.6? Thanks!

[@SH1051]

It'll look a little different, but yes it's all roughly the same. The pivot bolt on the bottom, and the 3 or 4 bolts to lock and adjust the tightness.

[@Denis9ROCKSTAR]

I have a 2001 nb and from intake manifold is some part going down there and i can’t seem to get the wrench in between...

[@boughtamiata]

Denis9ROCKSTAR Hi there, it might be easier if your remove the intake manifold brace. If you pause my video right at the beginning, it's the horizontal, cast metal thing that connects to the two large bolt holes on the intake manifold on the top right of the video. It also has one bolt at the bottom. Pretty easy to take out, gives way more room, and honestly, I never put it back on. I removed it about 6 years ago.

[@Denis9ROCKSTAR]

Redcaps Roadster doesn’t the intake need that holder, so you should mount it back? I did remove that cuz otherwise you really can’t reach it, but mine went off so hardly...

[@Sertao2013]

Just my luck . The whole reason I was watching the video was to find out how to get the 2 wire connectors off and he didn't show it. Update on getting the wire connection out of the alternator . I clamped a 4 inch vice grips to the connection and wiggled it out while pushing the locking latch in . Is the bottom bolt head the same size as the top one ? So why didn't you show the removal ? did you take it out from the bottom or the top ? I can reach all the bolts from the top but not sure if the alternator will clear from the top . You should rename the video what bolts to remove before you take the alternator out ( video does not show removal)

[@icarrera6969]

Ya that bottom bolt is a pain

[@Yeer718]

I just did the 99 swap in my Na. My battery seems to be overcharging now. Could it be I need to fit the na alternator into the 99 motor?

[@boughtamiata]

kjisthecoolest The 99 alternator is regulated by the ECU. I don't know a whole lot about it, but may want to check into that or swap to your years alternator.

[@scottchesterhall]

This guy already had his intake manifold support brace removed, so this video will not tell you everything you need to take out your old alternator and put in a new one.

[@gibbles3817]

Thank you sir

[@RTLGamesandPursuits]

Too much talk.......

[@aarais3442]

Am i supposed to have nuts on the end of my slack adjuster bolts?

[@boughtamiata]

On my NB, I don't have them. Certainly won't hurt, but simple tension with the pinch block should be enough. Using a second nut is a common trick to lock something from backing out. But it shouldn't be necessary. Tighten belt with long bolt first, then lock it in with the short one. Use a little caution, the long bolt is soft and can break if you use gorilla strength. ITS DESIGNED that way so you don't destroy the threads in the pinch block which is more expensive to replace than a metric bolt.