Mazda MX5/Miata NC Mk3 - Maintenance Episode 4 - Rear subframe removal & Underside refurbishment

Full refurb of the rear underside of the car. I had the subframe blasted and powder coated. I sandblasted the rear arms (before we had issue with our sandblaster) and painted them up and replaced the rubbers.
All the camber/toe bolts were seized, so replaced those. New wheel bearings and brake dust shields etc

[@pal555]

Great job I wish I had a garage to do mine

[@megajohntopunishenslave427]

My man you did a good job and I been through the same hell as you spent all the 2019 winter doing my front and rear subs.

[@ivorwm2291]

Fantastic video. I see how the rear section is constructed. I just got a 2012 GT PRHT with an automatic. I'm OK with the automatic. The car was free. I'm going to start going through it. Thank you for the video

[@Gord19]

Outstanding work !

[@nickpetersonvfx]

Looking good! I'm in the middle of reconditioning my front subframe on my project RX8. Hopefully it'll look this nice when I'm done :)

[@davidstorm4015]

Great job, that underside actually wasn't too bad compared to some I've seen. With the seam sealer, you should rub over it with your finger after applying, to press it into the join and make sure there's nowhere for water ingress. Maybe would have hammerited the rear arches (several coats) as this is very hardwearing and unlikely to fail, it's not a visible area so would never be a cosmetic issue. It should now last for many years without rust issues!

[@CompletelyDriven]

The seam sealer was pressed in, just not shown on the video.

[@davidleal923]

Absolutely worth it

[@ivorwm2291]

It's better than new

[@jamesmann7411]

Really helpful video. I'm planning for this job at the moment. Thank you for taking the time to make it. How was it separating the control arm ball joints from the hubs with the subframe out of the car?

[@CompletelyDriven]

Standard ball joints are fine, put the nut on with as many threads a possible and then hit the nut with a hammer. The one you might have issue with is the pinch bolt. The bolt is not designed to turn, you are meant to take the nut off and push out the bolt. I doubt you will be able to do that. I cut off all the bolt i could see and then had to drill it out.

[@jamesmann7411]

@CompletelyDriven many thanks. Just need to work up the courage to start!

[@anthonycrier4192]

Great job , think im going to have to do mine at some point , did you replace the rusty shield that was riveted on (above the subframe) and if you bought a new one where from ......thanks...

[@CompletelyDriven]

I drilled out the rivets, cut off the bad rust and painted it. I see most people buy from Mazda, but MX5 Parts sell them.

[@mikeafa1]

Job well done! I did a full restoration on my 1990 MX-5, Miata over here in the states and yes it takes a tone of time to do it right. Mazda or any other manufacturer for that matter does not paint or protect these undercarriage assemblies to last more than 20 years if your lucky. Looks great when you take the time with all the details. Now on to the front?

[@CompletelyDriven]

Hi. Yes the middle and front will get the same treatment, but maybe not for a while. The back end was in my view the most urgent.

[@katywalker8322]

Wow. That must be quite a parts bill. This is a job I am toying with doing, Which rust killer are you using? As it seems to have allowed a smooth pain finish over it

[@megajohntopunishenslave427]

Oh I assume you upgraded your ARB’s with Rx8 ones I went with orange rear and yellow front. They were a massive improvement over the blue dot match sticks the 3.5 came with.

[@CompletelyDriven]

Nope, all stock

[@hartmutflemming2045]

Rostumwandlung und Vorsorge gegen die braune Pest , von Könnern !...danke 9/2022 NC Fahrer......

[@davidhobbs8472]

Just doing mine at the moment, nearly ready to put the Gravitex on, did you lacquer over the silver?

[@CompletelyDriven]

Just the silver top coat no lacquer.

[@davidhobbs8472]

@@CompletelyDriven excellent thanks

[@wierdhead1000]

Great job, but the parts you kept calling “uprights” should be called “knuckles” 👍🏻👍🏻

[@mnap89]

I am not fan of body underseal becasue in my experience, metal will rust under this stuff and you wond be able to see it. And it is very difficult/time and labor consuming to remove and reapply.

[@joegamer1696]

Where do you ordered the rear traccion arms and the other arms?

[@CompletelyDriven]

I bought them secondhand from ebay

[@booktrunk]

How long did it take to grind it all spray it etc…

[@booktrunk]

Ok you said 9 solid days. So doing bits here and there will take a while :)

[@streetcodeonly]

Mate how did you prevent the drive shaft from spinning when pulling the hub?

[@CompletelyDriven]

I have seen what I think is your FB post. Put a bar across the hub studs and hold it.

[@streetcodeonly]

@@CompletelyDriven 😅 it was yeah. Thanks for the reply.

[@pervertedpenguins]

How much did all of this cost you in the end?

[@CompletelyDriven]

Thanks something I never want to know!

[@mrbear691]

Do you have a list of the products used please?

[@CompletelyDriven]

bilt hamber hydrate 80 rust treatment, red oxide primer, upol gravitex and then topped with paint the same colour as the car.