Mazdaspeed 3 VVT/Timing Chain/Etc DIY Repair - Setting Chain Tension

My 2007 (1st gen) Mazdaspeed 3 suffered the dreaded VVT (variable valve timing) failure that continues to plague MZR 2.3L DISI engines (both turbo and naturally aspirated) across the world. Mazda issued a warranty extension program to fix this issue for free but I just barely missed the window of opportunity so I fixed it myself over a long weekend (and I mean loooooong).
This video shows me setting the chain tension by loosening both the intake (VVT) and exhaust cams, then pulling the pin on the chain tensioner and cycling the chain through a couple rotations. What I FORGOT to do in this video (that I did later) was to push the chain tensioner arm away from the tensioner, as this will cause the tensioner to click out another stop or 2. You need to do this with the cams loose so that you can cycle the chain a few times and re-even out the tension. I did this AFTER tightening the cams and it created very uneven chain tension so I had to loosen the cams and do it again.
Costs:
- Quoted parts & labor repair cost from the dealership: $1300-1400 (over $900 in labor)
- What I paid in tools & parts to DIY: $500 ($300 parts + $200 tools) + 3 days of my life
- I spend a borderline absurd amount of time preparing for this job all to save less than $1k but you can't really put a price tag on how much I learned about this engine and cars in general. I also feel much better about spending my time and accomplishing something of this magnitude than just throwing $900 in the garbage and learning nothing.
I extend a HUGE thank you to the MazdaspeedForums.org community for providing troves of information, lending me tools, and even helping me wrench for 12+ hours (IOU1 Patty-Wack). I absolutely could not have done this without the phenomenal resources that MSF provided.
Check out my write-up notes on this procedure in the giant "How-To VVT" thread on MSF:
www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum...
~ ~ ~
If anybody has made it this far into the description, here are some tips if you're looking to do this yourself:
- Get the Factory Service Manual and USE it. Follow the methods and torque specs in there and most of this procedure is quite straight-forward. The initial tear down is most of what you have to make up yourself (i.e. there's no how-to for detaching the wiring harness).
- Get a pneumatic impact gun. I only used this to get the crankshaft bolt off (having my friend put the car in 6th and stand on the brake pedal) but I returned it afterwards to Harbor Freight for a full refund.
- Get the REAL SST's for the cam alignment plate and the TDC pin. I also had a set of knock-offs and they set a bad TDC and the CAP was bent (it was just a waterjetted plate instead of machined SS).
- Get a 10mm 6-point box wrench (NOT a 12-point) to get off the idler & water pump pulley bolts. My 12-pt started to round the idler pulley bolt and there wasn't enough room to get a socket wrench on it until we removed the PMM and jacked up the engine (but even then only one specific socket wrench fit, a 1/4"-drive Husky).
- Remove the HPFP & housing as one unit to avoid having to deal with the weird E8 inverted torx bolts on the fuel pump, itself.
- Loosen BOTH the VVT & exhaust cam sprockets when setting the chain tension so that it will even itself out as you spin it through a few cycles. Also push the left chain guide towards the chain to make sure the tensioner is fully clicked out (mine clicked out another notch after I had tightened the cam sprockets, creating uneven tension in the timing chain, so I had to loosen the sprockets and do it again).
- Get a universal pulley holder ($60 from Amazon, which I also returned) to hold the crank pulley when you're torquing the crank bolt to avoid bending the TDC pin or shearing the M6 bolt holding the pulley to the timing cover. I had the handle wedged up against the upper control arm bolt with a 2x4 between them.
- Get some ARP Ultra Torque thread lube and smear that on the crank bolt threads and head when installing the new bolt. This bolt eats up almost 300 ft-lbs WITH lube and who knows how much without it.
- Organize bolts from each part into ziplocs and label them for ease of reassembly.
- Convince somebody to help you for both mechanical and emotional support. This job takes a long, long, long time and makes you go a bit crazy.

[@hugoorantes9680]

Hi man I have a question the gear on the bottom go's under pressure or have a play on the driveshaft???

[@coulibalysouleymane9656]

Merci infiniment pour votre soutien mécanique

[@mrfixitdellacertifiedfield5376]

FYI the manual says on the VVT point the notch to the 12 clock position and the cam sprocket should have a dot , that also should be at the 12 o clock position and any time you unloose the cam/vvt sprocket the Friction washer needs replacing

[@youtubeonyx8476]

I have 2.3 in my Mazda 6, broke some valves, never found out the cause, got the head shaved and new valves put in, put everything back together and broke more valves then damaged piston heads a little, the head is chipped now so I scrapped that. Tensioner was 8 teeth out so i bought new one and a chain, now just have to buy another head and try again with new stuff!

[@pelusa399]

Hi! I have a problem with a Mazda CX-7 turbo! Could you tell me, whats is te correct order of the second camshaft, it's what it have the mark! Please help me!!

[@agentnuget]

Came across this as i'm looking how to pull my timing cover. Looks like your engine is still in the car, I was under the impression the engine had to be pulled to do this job. Glad that doesn't seem to be the case.

[@Govanification]

No engine pull, but you do have to jack support the engine and remove the passenger motor mount. The biggest pain in the ass was getting the idler pulley off and then back on, there's barely any space between the screw head and the chassis frame there. Careful not to round the head off, it's a really small flange-head bolt. I replaced that bolt with a larger hex head so it wouldn't strip if I had to take it off again in the future. Good luck bud.

[@abelaforge2040]

group therapy.... solid album

[@gerardoguerrero1403]

Thank you!

[@Govanification]

Hope it helped, good luck

[@dbbyleo]

Great video. Really appreciate all the details you call out in your process and the full write up in your description. I’m coming across you video as I’m researching this VVT issue. I don’t own a Mazda… but I’m considering buying a 2010 Speed3 with 165K miles. Im actually in talks with the seller as we speak. And this weekend came to find out about the VVT issue. (Im totally new to the Mazda scene). Question: the impression I have is this VVT issue exists in all these 2.3 engines unless it’s been fixed (either out of pocket or under the extended warranty back then). If it’s not fixed… then it’s not a matter of IF, but WHEN, right? I mean, the slack will eventually occur. So when considering buy a 2010 model, how would you know if the VVT was already fixed? I assume if it was fixed under warranty, then Mazda would have a record against the VIN. Outside of that… is there any other way to know? The car may not have the symptoms today (the chain slap).

[@Govanification]

The issue is with all gens of the speed3 as they use the same engine. The only real way to know if the VVT has been replaced is either a maintenance record from the previous owner, which should have been a free recall/replacement unless the car has a rebuild title. Otherwise you'd need to visually inspect the new VVT part which should have a "C" stamped on it and an obviously heat-treated spot on the side, but you'd need to pull your valve cover to see these details. Seems like some cars are more prone to the VVT issue than others, I swapped mine at like 70k miles or something and the parts honestly didn't look worn out and my chain was barely stretched. Short of records or disassembly, you can feel the timing chain tension between the cam sprockets through the oil cap on the valve cover, but ideally you'd want to jack up the front right corner, remove the wheel and turn it a full revolution so you can feel the tension at multiple positions. The sound of a loose chain slapping the valve cover during a cold startup is pretty noticeable if you are standing outside the car next to the passenger side of the engine, but it can be confused with the fuel pump flutter sound.

[@dbbyleo]

Thanks so much for your detailed response. This helps me a lot understand this whole VVT situation and be more prepared for this next purchase.

[@joncuevas8622]

Could you show a video of how you removed the cover in front of the timing chain? I have a 2004 mazda 3 that I have to remove the valve train. But I see you did that while it was in the car. I'd like to know if you could post a video of how you removed it while it's in the car

[@Govanification]

Hey sorry but I didn't take a video of me removing the timing cover. There are 20-ish bolts on the timing cover and all are accessible from below or above with a wrench. You MUST remove and reinstall them in a specific order, however, generally spiraling inward when removing and outward when reinstalling. This order is given in the factory service manual for this car, which you can get by becoming a member as MazdaSpeedForums . org.

[@belindaferguson2443]

does anybody know what the oil pump bolts are to be tighten to and the timing cover bolts i cant find them anywhere 07 mazda 2.3 turbo and the turbo as well i am replacing the turbo,timing chain and oil pump

[@ColesGarage919]

how long did it take you to move the overflow and pwr steering container and stuff out way or how long did it take you in general

[@Govanification]

Moving the fluid reservoirs only took a few minutes, just undid a couple screws and bungie corded them out of the way. You should check out my timelapse videos for a sense of total time but it was easily over 12 hours of hard work spread over 3 days, and I didn't even screw up anything major.

[@jeffesquivel16]

I went through the whole description section. And was just wondering what parts you actually bought. Mazda is trying to sell me a $500 kit but you said you only spent $300. Im in Chicago. Any chance you live here too lol

[@Govanification]

If you check out the link to MazdaspeedForums that I put in the description, you can find my parts list of what I bought and used, what I bought and didn't use and also optional parts that you might want to buy (wear items etc that you don't know you need until you're in there). I'm in Seattle but honestly the cheapest way to buy parts is at an online mazda store that's preferably out of your state so you can avoid sales tax.

[@AhmedBahgat]

Hello mate, did you manage to change the diamond washer behind the oil pump driven sprocket on the crank shaft? can it be done without removing the oil pump pulley?

[@Govanification]

You need to remove the oil pump sprocket to get that 3rd washer replaced, which is required!

[@AhmedBahgat]

+Govanification Thanks mate, was the oil pump pulley easy to remove using the proper tool to hold it?

[@Govanification]

I didn't have the proper tool, so getting the oil pump sprocket was extremely difficult. One trick is to screw the crank bolt back in with something thick enough behind it to clamp the sprocket stack together and then try to loosen the oil pump sprocket bolt.

[@lupitamelendezt8576]

borearp

[@526lawn]

Did you lift the motor at all for room or is it still secured on the motor mounts.

[@Govanification]

+Michael George Sorry man I missed your comment. I removed the passenger side motor mount and supported the engine from the bottom. This was required to remove the timing cover.

[@latunguley]

I'm having one hell of a time trying to perform this procedure on my 2007 Mazda 6 with the 2.3 litre engine. I have it torn apart, now its figuring out where the cog markings go? One HTV claimed that the right hand cog must point vertical towards the cam shaft? Mine isn't vertical its at the 8 oclock position at TDC with the special plate I bought from Massive that goes into the grooves of cams, now I;m trying to install the special screw that stops the crank flange and my front right CV shaft is totally in my way and I removed to mount bolts trying to pry CV outta the way? Isn't happening

[@MasterChief-sl9ro]

You have to pull the drive shaft out on the Passenger side. I ended up just wedging a 2x4 in there. After removing them 3 bolts that center the drive shaft. Then used the exhaust bolt in reverse. It just fit tight enough to hold the crank at TDC. And don't remove that bolt till you tighten the Balance wheel all the way down. While keeping that 9th tooth aligned with the cam sensor center pickup coil. Or your ass will be sorry.

[@marcov9808]

It was Alchemmyyyy!!!

[@Govanification]

I'm surprised they haven't disabled the audio. Maybe A&B doesn't hunt people down on KZbin like other artists do.

[@jackpowell715]

I have a serious question, how did you remove the giant piece of forged metal that sits on the left side of the cams, (sides with the bolts) because I have no room to tighten the cams. Did you remove the belts?

[@Govanification]

Do you mean the timing cover? It's a giant piece of aluminum held on by 22 bolts that you have to remove otherwise you can't access any of the important bits for resetting your cam/crank alignment. I hope you didn't remove your cams without also removing the crank bolt and timing cover or there's really gonna be no way for you to easily put everything back together. i59.tinypic.com/f58i9.jpg

[@jackpowell715]

Govanification oh I figured it out, thank you for taking the time to tell me! I'm sure it'll help other people out

[@shiweiluan]

Just want to learn more from you guys, which part causes this problem, the VVT, Actuator, tensioner or other part? Thank you.

[@Govanification]

VVT starts the problem, which subsequently stretches the chain and extends your tensioner further. If replacing your vvt it's recommended to replace everything.

[@charlenebarney3892]

Govanification

[@MasterChief-sl9ro]

Mazda is a none keyed timing setup. You have to lock the Crank down at top dead center with a bolt. The balancer has a hole to lock it in place as well. The cams have a tool to lock them down as well. I have no clue why he never mentioned that part. As the cams themselves have a hex on them. So you can move each cam separate to lock them down in the rear. And it has to be on top dead center or the tool does not fit... And no the sprockets don't need indexing. As only one is controlled by the VCT.. As long as it gets oil. It works.

[@Govanification]

That's correct, this is a keyless crankshaft held together with diamond-plated friction washers. The cam alignment plate (CAP) is mentioned in the forum posts and in my video description, sorry I didn't discuss it thoroughly in the video. By the time you have got to this point in the repair you should absolutely be aware of the alignment tools.

[@boostaholic5471]

where can i find a complete disassemble guide for mazdaspeed 6

[@Govanification]

What you're looking for is the Factory Service Manual, which you can get from various forums like Mazdaspeedforums.org or Mazdaspeeds.org, but you'll likely need to donate to access the downloads like I did. You might be able to find it somewhere else on the internet but it's mostly only available to certified shop techs so it can be pretty hard to find.

[@jimwalenciak2054]

Nice work. Too bad you didn’t do a start to finish vid. Would have been epic I know but still.

[@Govanification]

Yeah I only did a time lapse of the whole process, it would have slowed me down to first-person film the whole thing since I was up to my elbows in oil half the time. Check out the lengthy procedure write-ups in the forum thread I linked in the description, however.

[@stephenrios4642]

So i just did this on my 07 CX7 (same motor) and i'm am still getting the loud chattering and chain noises hitting the side of the cover? So I did a lil experiment and when i removed the power connectors from the cam driven HPFP the chatter stopped. Is it that I just need to replace the HPFP or at least the internal's.

[@Govanification]

Um I hope you didn't disconnect the power from your HPFP while the car was running... that's a great way to blow your engine. Did you disassemble the HPFP when you did this repair or did you remove the assembly whole (like I did)? If your HPFP is making sounds and you disassembled it, you might want to open it up and reassemble it again and take extra care to clean everything and torque all the E8 torx head bolts evenly or your HPFP won't be happy. However, the HPFP is on the other side of the engine as your timing chain... so it should be obvious what sounds are from your HPFP and what are timing chain slap.

[@stephenrios4642]

Govanification Yes I did momentarily disconnect the harness from the HPFP and the chatter which is coming form the left side of the engine bay where the VVT and timing system are located stopped chattering. For some reason the HPFP is slowing the timing down and causing the chain to slap the casing. I did not take apart or repair the HPFP was just wondering if you changed out or rebuild your HPFP when you did this.

[@CT200HSD]

Hi!! I've already done the fix and I still have that ticking noise. Any suggestion? I bought the whole VVT kit from Edge autosport... Thank you.

[@CT200HSD]

+Mikel Peña Díaz Note that it only does the noise after shutting down the engine and some minutes later turning it on again.... In cold starts it isn't noticeable at all.

[@Govanification]

+Mikel Peña Díaz Might be something else then, cold starts are typically when it's the mist noticeable. Did you replace the chain tensioner while you were in there? Could also be your serpentine belt tensioner, mine rattled until I replaced it.

[@alreg18]

I get this rattle when i start and turn off my ms3. Car has 116k miles btw, if it's the vvt actuator could i just replace that part or would i need the whole kit or is it recommended to change out the whole thing. Thanks

[@jazztheking]

They sell a kit on edgeauto

[@Govanification]

So technically it's just the VVT that goes bad but depending on how long that's been going bad it can cause other problems downstream, like a stretched timing chain. Typically for the amount of effort it takes to get into this part of your engine, it's worth it to buy most or all of the kit of potential replacement parts so that you can swap anything that needs it. I replaced my VVT, chain, chain tensioner but I ended up returning my chain guides as they weren't grooved at all and felt new. Hope that helps.

[@bobhaddock957]

does the engine noise sound like valve chatter on the top end ?

[@Govanification]

It might when the engine is running but when the chain hits the valve cover its pretty loud and noticeably different than the injector flutter/valve chatter that's always going on. During cold starts is when it's the most noticeable cuz you can hear the chain slap and the vvt lock pin failing to engage for a couple seconds. I had bad cold start sounds but I couldn't really hear anything when idling after startup.

[@carloosv8]

+Govanification How do you tight the crank pulley without turning the crank?

[@mrfixitdellacertifiedfield5376]

And you removed the crankshaft bolt that also needs replacing along with the 2-3 friction washers behind the crank/ oil pump gears

[@Govanification]

Yes bolt the crank bolt and friction washers need to be replaced.

[@dc5945]

What?! The timing is relying on bolt tension? No lock key pin? 😦🤕

[@Govanification]

Yup, totally smooth non-keyed crankshaft, but those special diamond-coated washers in the stack allow some crazy friction to be transmitted with just that single crank bolt holding it all together. People who start pushing an extra couple hundred HP often tighten the crank bolt even more, however, because if it slips under load your pistons and your valves will have a battle and you will lose.

[@rafaelcrespo2043]

hello i have a cx7 2.3 turbo and ran into the same problem with the vvt actuator. installed it no problem but now i have no spark? how did you ever figure this out?

[@Govanification]

You have "no spark" as in your car won't start? Since you disconnected the entire wiring harness, I would say start by double-checking that you plugged all the connectors back in properly, then make sure you reattached your fuel pump correctly. There are so many little things that you could have forgotten that it's really hard for me to speculate.

[@spacecalander]

Govanification fuel pump, is it not in the tank? And when you said dreaded vvt failure, was it just a constant po300 or does the car die when it fails? Thanks

[@spacecalander]

Govanification thanks

[@shiweiluan]

Govanification "The VVT failure is "dreaded" because the original design for the VVT was flawed and basically all of them eventually malfunction" Learned a lot from your video. But could you give a little explanation on how it will eventually malfunction? Thank you.

[@Govanification]

Shiwei Luan The vvt can malfunction in a few different ways, the simplest of which is getting the small oil passageways clogged from too infrequent oil changes, which would cause low pressure inside the vvt and your engine would not be able to properly control your valve timing (or it would adjust slowly). This is dangerous because your timing is adjusted based on how much throttle you are giving the car, so if you mashed on the gas and your timing was set for coasting fuel economy but it wasn't able to adjust fast enough you could end up with engine knock, leading to piston head pitting, bend rods, piston blow-by, etc. This is NOT the "dreaded" vvt failure, however. The failure due to manufacturer error is that there is a pin that engages with a hole in the vvt when it is locked in the normal (no timing advance) position, i.e. when you cold-start your engine in the morning or stomp the accelerator. Over time, this hole gets worn into a slot, so your vvt does not lock properly in the normal position, which causes your vvt timing to slip when cold starting as the pin rams in and out of the hole, causing the cold startup "death rattle" that so many people hear. As your engine rpm gets higher, the force on the pin lessens and it can finally engage with the slot, or the engine sends oil in to advance the timing (the rattle stops after a few seconds). If left alone for long enough, this slot will get so loose that your vvt may NEVER lock and so you could damage your engine from knock every time you start the car or whenever you really step on the gas, since both those times your vvt should lock in the no timing advance position for max power and safety. TL;DR: Oil changes gunk it up so timing adjustment gets slow, potentially dangerous. Mechanical hole wears out and becomes a slot; definitely dangerous after wear starts if you drive hard. Fix it if you hear the sounds! Do regular oil changes!

[@mgayar16]

where did you get the torque specs can you please reply

[@Govanification]

mazdaspeedforum . org Going vip there was the best $25 I ever spent on this car. They have all the service manuals that the dealerships use for maintenance with all the specs and assembly order for everything.

[@mgayar16]

how do i make a vip account? btw thanks for replying quickly

[@Govanification]

+spoon games Regular accounts are free but you have to donate to go vip. One of the only places I've found the manuals unless you know somebody who works at a dealership. The community has like more information about this car than you could possibly read haha

[@mgayar16]

ok im going to sign up for it i have mazdaspeed6 and dont know any torque specs and also where did you get the parts and are there special tools required

[@Govanification]

+spoon games Definitely do a ton of reading before attempting this. I have links in this video description to useful threads over at MSF and you should read all of the big posts there. Tool lists, parts list etc are all on there. I buy all my parts online from park mazda oem parts

[@bobhaddock957]

it doesn't sound like that. same noise when you start it as when it is warmed up. sounds like a top end valve clatter. it is a west coast car and never been in the Missouri cold.

[@Govanification]

+Bob Haddock Cold start only refers to the engine oil not being at full operating temp, the ambient air temperature is pretty much irrelevant. What happens is that the oil pressure is supposed to hold a pin into a hole in the VVT to lock the timing advance at zero when the engine is starting but when the hole gets slotted out or the VVT gets gunked up from too infrequent oil changes then you can hear it clicking/rattling as it tried to engage the pin in the VVT. This is a very distinct sound but it's not the only sound. The other sound is the timing chain actually slapping the bottom inside of the valve cover, which can happen while the car is running and warmed up as well as during a cold start. This chain slap sounds more like valve chatter than the VVT pin, so maybe that's what you are hearing.

[@ohsoflyvids]

i did every thing right everything timing 20th tooth

[@Govanification]

What happened?

[@ohsoflyvids]

Govanification well I did all that then it got a rod knock so no I sold it lol

[@meditatestaycalm8321]

no sound?

[@Govanification]

The sound works, at least in the US. Where do you live?

[@meditatestaycalm8321]

sound worked on phone..lol

[@sallehalisitisallehalisiti9531]

Wrongggg

[@Govanification]

What do you mean?