Fusion 360 How to Flip a Part for Op2

[@saddlepointmachine73]

Clear and 100% beef! No fluff ..best tutorials out there .. confusion 360 should ire u

[@chrisleech1565]

This is arguably the best lesson on the F360 second side strategies. Well worth reviewing. I will sleep well tonight.

[@timanderson9825]

I know I am late to the game here but your content is excellent. I have just started running production using pallets and there are a ton of little tricks in your videos that have helped tremendously. Thank you for the tips and keep it coming!

[@rudolfmh1]

Well done sir. As always, your videos are easy to follow and you cover everything in detail just like your training class!

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Hi Michael. Thanks for the commend. Hope you are doing well and were able to spend a lot of time this summer in Montana. I'm going to be sending you an email so be on the lookout for that.

[@TMCmakes]

so many good nuggets in these videos. the view with fixtures stuff is awesome, and i've never used 2d contour to do the floor like that, super efficient!

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Hi Mike. Yeah, that 2D contour trick is pretty good. I did another video previously that goes into a bit more detail on the process if you want to go back and find it. Glad you found it useful.

[@justincastellanos1009]

Your videos are god tier for learning fusion 360 tricks thank you for what you do.

[@geewillikers5342]

Thank you for explaining why you set up a wcs @ 4:35. The other f360 vids dont really give the why.

[@tdg911]

I'm kind of struggling with flipping a part to mill that hat off and having the top side matching up when I perform a 2D contour on the bottom side. I'm definitely doing something wrong because the top is has an offset from the bottom. I probed the left face of my fixed jaw, probed the inside face of the fixed jaw and used a square to make sure my part was perfectly flush with the left side of the jaw and I'm still having an issue. Love your videos btw. I've learned a great deal from you so far, thank you!

[@andrew_the_machinist]

Dude, you're like a shortcut wizard!

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

I’m glad you are finding the videos useful.

[@oliverwoelfel2133]

Hello Kevin, another amazing video from you. I am trying to find and turn on the "Continue Rest Machining" in my preferences. No success unfortunately. I scoured through the whole list of preferences and can not seem to find that under previews. Any idea on how I can get there? Your help is appreciated.

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

I didn't know you were having issues with this one Oliver. Did you get this figured out? I should do an updated video on it.

[@adambergendorff2702]

Excellent video for something that is rarely covered, 2nd op. I know the video is 3yrs old, You don't see many videos on cutting soft jaws for 2nd op, which almost all of my parts require.

[@clark1ra]

Awesome Kevin. Thanks for doing this video. Very helpful.

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Hi Ray. Glad it will come in handy. Hope you are doing well.

[@colehawkins6623]

As always great video Kevin.

[@bluehandsvideo]

I'm really glad I watched this. I knew about the fixtures, but not about the visibility. I do a lot of soft jaws and having to turn them on and off when I flip the part gets tiresome. lol Those two visibility settings ought to fix that. :) Thanks!!

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Hi Mike. Yeah they seem to work pretty well. I sort of wished they had implemented it a bit differently, but I guess this gets the job done currently.

[@JonBanquer]

@@MechanicalAdvantage How to you wish they implemented it?

[@mygirlfriendismarcaline945]

I have the education edition of fusion, in the preview preferences tab I do not see the option for rest machining. Work around for this? thanks

[@MrRctintin]

Thanks Kevin, that was some really great info, and extremely clear teaching. I have a quick question, on the first opp, you drilled and tapped before facing. Most videos I’ve watched, always face mill first. Is there a reason you did this after the drilling cycles? Thanks, Rob.

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Most times it really doesn't matter. I'm not sure why I changed up the order here to be honest. Sometimes I'll do this if I think I'll end up with a birds nest on the drill. If it scratches up the top surface I don't really care because the facing op will remove that. But I don't think it is too critical in what order you do these steps.

[@wyattkoppy1066]

You did the easiest part anyone can figure out. now do it with two or more parts.

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Tell you what. Why don’t you find something that you think would be a challenge and send it over. I’m sure you happily watch a 45 minute video just to understand the concept of how to do it, right? My contact info is on the about page to send the file to.

[@wyattkoppy1066]

If im programming multiple parts it doesnt carry over to op-2 it gives errors saying to make sure the same model is selected?

[@jameslee522]

I do not have a tool changer. So i want to avoid tool swaps. So I made a fixture to run the front and back at the same time. So stock goes in one side and cut. Then gets flipped and moved next to it. So i have one piece that is stock for op1 and one piece that is cut and flipped for op2 on the same fixture. I can run 1 tool and work on the back and front with one tool change. My question is, is there a better way to program it? Im currently programing both front and back as one work setup.

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

I think this video will help. I have this set up so the front station is G54 and the rear is G55. The tool will do work ok both front and rear before changing to the next tool kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6C4dZJubrucmcU

[@jammbbs1688]

Did everything you did and it won't let me cut from the bottom

[@stevenmoore3887]

Am I missing something? The first operation the Z axis is facing down? Second op facing up. I don't see the flip. If I do the same thing my tools still try to come in from the original side?

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

I just went back and looked. The Z axis was up for both setups. It needs to always point at the direction you want the spindle to approach from.

[@stevenmoore3887]

@@MechanicalAdvantage I guess where I am getting confused is the upper corner Stock "home" point location vs the model WCS. Your setups are both up but home is down for one and up for the other. Unless I pick "Select Orientation option" I can't actually click off the flip. Model Orientation does not have the flip option. I expect I'm missing something but cannot for the life of me see it.

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

@@stevenmoore3887 in the second setup I used model box point. You should still be able to change the orientation of the Z axis. I put the WCS on the bottom of the part because that is then a known machined surface instead of using the unknown and unreliable exact thickness of the raw stock.

[@johnmorack7619]

Excellent info Thanks!

[@arbjful]

What kind of work holding is best for this type of part?

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Parallels and jaws would work fine. With my setup I would use serrated jaws for the first op, and then parallels and the smooth part of the jaws for the flip side.

[@Sonic_Shroom]

If I have different positions for different operations like moving from vise to fixture can I transfer the machined state of the stock after that operation over to another position for the next operation.

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Not easily right now. However, keep an eye here when that functionality is released. I’ll have a video on how it works for sure.

[@JonBanquer]

@@MechanicalAdvantage It's been a year. Why hasn't this been a priority for Autodesk? It would give Fusion 360 a major advantage over the competition.

[@TiredBush]

Setting up like this is fine, but won't you get errors while generating your NC code?

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Nope. Where do you think the error would come in?

[@ragnarhairybreeks]

Hi, Very nice vid, and gratifying that it’s pretty well exactly what I do. Pretty well 90% of my work involves flip and deck. Annoyingly, for the last few months, the jobs have been only ones and twos of each design. So I can’t get really efficient with fixtures etc. The workflow has been to do the first op on the haas mini mill, a few parts in one bit of stock ( arranging those parts for that op is a pain, any tricks you have would be appreciated). Then parts bandsawed out of that group and over the tormach for the flip and deck. Sometimes stay on the haas for that op bit mostly the tormach as I have a probe on that machine, makes locating a breeze. The added wrinkle on the flip and deck is many of the parts need soft jaws cut to hold the curved parts. I’m doing ok with that but if you want any suggestions for future vids I’ll vote for something on softjaws. Again, thanks for doing these vids, I always learn something. Alistair

[@ViceChief]

I very much agree with this comment. YT is full of software approaches to flipped setups but there does not seem to be much in the way of practical guides on the machine/fixturing side.

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Hi Alistair. Sounds interesting. Feel free to send me an example to [e-mail]

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

I'll have to put my thinking cap on and see if there is a good way to present something like that.

[@ragnarhairybreeks]

@@MechanicalAdvantage Hi, Can’t send any work examples, confidentiality etc. But I have a silly little side project of some car window winders. I’ve cut a few using the flip and deck on soft jaws. If you promise not to laugh at my modelling abilities I’ll send a step file :-) Actually, my model also brings up some other tool path issues. You’ll see what I mean. I’ll send pics of my , pre bead blasting , results. Alistair

[@Bigwingrider1800]

WELL DONE BROTHER

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Thank you!

[@jaimelucy2010]

Great thanks.

[@Festivejelly]

It confused the shit out of me not having the view on the little cube the same as your labels.

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

In your preferences, you can choose if you want Y up or Z up. That should make it match.

[@jamesharrison5004]

It's better to do the most complex side side first. The you just have a 'hat' to mill off.

[@bobikbobikowy5458]

Cnc is so complicated. With 3d printer you just throw that part in cura and done xD

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

True, they both have their place for sure. I could machine a whole batch of these in a CNC in the time it takes to 3D print one. And they would be very dimensionally accurate. There are definite benefits to a 3D printer. In face, I bought an Ender 5 last winter. I'm looking to expand my 3D printing knowledge this year.

[@jenspetersen5865]

Absolutely fantastic video up till this time in the video -kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJzaoJ-em8anrrc You are choosing a lot of parameters like stay down, stepover, roughing passes and it would be much better if you told us why you choose 80%, why 10 roughing passes.... That is what is always difficult when something that sounds like 2nd nature and simplistic to you, is at least over my head.