Mercedes Benz 3.0 V6 CDi Diesel OM642 Not boosting? Limp mode? Common Problems C, E, S, CLS 320 350

Do you have a Mercedes with an OM642? That's the 3.0 V6 Diesel CDi. It's in the 320cdi or 350cdi bluetec's from 2006. Does your car sometimes stop boosting or it's always in limp mode and won't rev past a certain point or go faster than a certain speed. Check this video out for the most common problems the OM642 suffers from that causes limp mode or loss of boost. If you want to know where you can get most of the stuff I can link it in the comments if needed. Hope this helps you fix your car, quickly, cheaply and stops you from hating your car. Car's that don't work are crazy annoying.

[@Peter-it5ht]

Great video ,I am sitting in a carpark down in southern Spain after driving down here ,I have issues with loss of power on hills hopefully the car will get me back to the UK in a few weeks, and I will be having a look at the turbo actuator . The video was very informative and not at all boring.

[@enginium6043]

I'm glad it was informative. I really hope you have a safe and uneventful trip back and you can then get it looked at. The turbo actuator can make the car go into limp mode but a restart will fix it but as it deteriorates you will have the problem more frequently and turning the car on and off won't fix it anymore.

[@shitefinancialdecisions]

Thanks for the no BS video, straight to the point, clear explanations and actually helpful for DYI'ers unlike a lot of the bigger channels that just waffle on with rubish. You have a new subscriber!

[@pedrofundora9185]

Very good video. My car is a S350 and after taking it to the dealer to do emmition recall it started giving me a whole lot of problems I ended up fixing it myself by doing the checkups that you suggest. The car recover all the power and fuel efficiency. I love the W221 with this motor. Thanks for the video.

[@mototakahe836]

great clear description of possible problems Thank you.

[@albertol1529]

I had the limp mode in my 2014 CLS Shooting Brake 250D. I was limited to nothing over 2500rpm, but all gears worked. There was only Economy and Sport mode enabled with no Manual, though the shifters worked ok. I found the best way to get onto roundabouts/busy junctions without soiling underwear was to keep it in sport mode. I took it to a great local garage (M&A Autos, Corby) who cleared the. OBD code, and test drove it 3 times, which initially sorted the problem. However, the fault returned the next day. It was a split intercooler pipe, which they did all in for £120. I service my car at Mercedes to keep the history up, but Mick at M&A does the wearable maintenance and problem solving. Let him know Peter sent you. Great guy, honest and efficient.

[@enginium6043]

Glad to hear you got it sorted. It's good to see there are still good garages out there.

[@albertol1529]

@@enginium6043 Thanks for the thorough explanation. It’s one of the most worrying warning lights ever!

[@isakisak7310]

Very informative video thank you for sharing. Used it to find and repair my ml320 cdi 2006 booster issue where car kept jerking on heavy load and going into limp mode. Now car drives like new with lots of power thrust. Garage couldn’t find the issue and quoted silly money. Ended up replacing part myself after seeing your video and saved myself a fortune. I love driving my car again! Thank you .👍

[@TheLtrentlage]

Mine is doing same thing, did it end up being turbo actuator / booster you replaced to fix the issue?

[@nigelholt794]

Hi what part did you replace im having exactly the same issue 🤔

[@Sensei_Gaz]

Im having this issue, what part did you replace please?

[@saskoktz]

Well done perfect video ! I have lots of issues with mine just bought it second hand and I’m facing some of the same issues you have pointed out . Loss of power, blue smoke but power back, no power at all during drives and then all back on ... want to fix it and this video points exactly the problems of ‘‘tis model . I thought Mercedes builds the best engines .

[@mrthecodguy]

I had the same problems u have exept for the blue smoke, i drive a 2011 vito 122cdi. Turned out to be a clogged egr valve. Since the shop i went to was very busy and coulenr help me right away the mechanic said he would reset the code in the computer and it might go away, he recommended to go on a long drive right away and it might fix itself. We're 3 months ahead now and the problem has not returned (yet).

[@stephenrowlands843]

I agree with everything you've said! Useful vid. Always worth testing the maf sensors with a voltmeter before throwing money away on a new one.

[@enginium6043]

That's a good point. Especially with a car like this where you have to buy 2 mafs and they aren't replaceable!

[@Peter-wo4uo]

@@enginium6043 My om642 has a 0105-01 code, its for a boost pressure sensor (voltage too high) I have a new used turbo, i want to do the oil cooler gaskets aswell

[@em4703]

@@enginium6043 A very important maintenance item on this engine that can be the root of ALOT of problems is the PCV valve. Replacing it every 50-70k km will save your intake, cat and dpf from alot of troubles. For example, once it starts leaking oil, it will trap the egr soot on the surface of anything inside the intake, killing your twirl flaps and seriously constricting airflow.

[@neilhampson2843]

I have owned a E320cdi for the last 10 years,and every thing you mentioned on this video bar the MAF sensors has been an issue. Great car when all is well, I am on my third turbo actuator,but as you say it came with a lifetime warranty and it never been an issue getting it repaired. I read somewhere that it;s the high under bonnet temperature that kills the actuator. I wish I had seen this years ago it could have saved a lot of head scratching.

[@enginium6043]

Yes it think because they put the turbo in the Vee to reduce lag etc but they didn't seem to uprate or cool any of the electronics. A big problem is cars being misdiagnosed with faulty turbos or people chucking parts at them as it gets really expensive really quick.

[@alinwithther6]

Hi mate, your video is very informative and is not boring at all, in fact i've watched twice, I hope you may know the answer, i have a 2015 ( 64) CLS 350 cdi bluetec and just had a service done, driving perfectly before, the mechanic manage somehow to break a return fuel line while he was replacing the fuel filter, got this replaced and put everything back as it was, engine is running as before on idle and no warning lights on the dash, however, after 3 or 4 miles there is no boost, put the foot down and nothing, try to paddle shift, nothing... no warning lights and no faults found via diagnostics... i really don't know where to start, i wish now i didn't had the service done.

[@joshuapage7358]

I have a 2008 ml320cdi that just wouldnt stop going into limp mode for low boost pressure. When I bought it I knew it had a bad turbo which was confirmed during rebuild. Soot buildup was stopping the turbo from making full boost. During the rebuild process I bought a chinese aftermarket actuator figuring it would be prudent to replace it (Was trying to save a little money so I went with the chinese model which weirdly enough had good reviews). Also re-sealed all pipes going from the turbo to the intake. Rebuild went great but now getting low boost pressure with different symptoms. When cold it runs better than ever, once I hit about 30 miiles of driving the turbo feels laggy and doesnt seem to want to get much boost then goes into limp mode sometimes with, sometimes without a cel. Hooked my MB2 scanner up, all sensors working, when under load cold it gets 29 to 30 pounds of boost. Everything seems up to order. I went a step forward and installed a go pro and light under the hood to watch the acutator as it just seemed like it wasent opening at times. There it was, cheap chinese actuator wasen't opening when it got hot or was barely opening. You hit the nail on the head when you explained it. Interesting that if the actuator is working until hot it wont throw the code specific for the actuator so this problem was a little harder to diagnose. Just threw the old low boost pressue code and nothing else. Sometimes trying to save a couple dollars doesn't pan out. I actually went APA/URO on the actuator this time as I have had great luck with them and they are matched specific to the class Mercedes you need it for.

[@Nick-bp7jf]

Hi. Great video, thank you very much. I have a P0237 code. 'Turbo boost pressure sensor circuit low'. Can you tell me where the boost pressure sensor is on the OM642 please? Thanks.

[@malcolmhatton]

Nice presented video Enginium, I have P0101 MAF fault & P2463 DPF fault, I'm told DPF fault could be false due to MAF fault. Renewed MAF sensor but every time I delete codes they come straight back and Limp mode (just under 3k rpm) continues to be enabled. Otherwise the car pulls and runs fine with 37mpg on motorway. Any thoughts?? Thanks

[@AsimEden]

Excellent Video! One other thing beware of on the 642.850 engines, Oil Cooler which is situated at the bottom of the "V" has seals that leak and eventually fills up the V. So if looking at one to buy check any leaks that are coming from the middle rear of the engine. Mercedes have revised these seals but its a 12 hour labour cost to do this job, Ouch!

[@enginium6043]

Great point! Its a big job, not necessarily hard but a big one!

[@mikejennings7779]

Would you say the presure sensor could give intermittent boost issues too? I have code 2510-1 and 2616-2

[@mikejennings7779]

Good job, nice info

[@buildrepaircomplain5761]

Thanks so much!! Step 1: get OBD diagnostic tool. Step 2: come back to this video.

[@enginium6043]

An obd2 reader does help for sure. But sometime it can be easier to get it read on the star machine. But an obd reader at least gives you a good place to start. You see it a lot online. My car is broken what's wrong with it? Have you read the codes? No. Lol it's very difficult to help someone if there is no place to start.

[@planespeaking]

The PCV will cause issues as well and O2 sensor. They will impact everything like swirl flaps etc. due to gumming up. Also check egr valve and pipe at front next to throttle body and clean carbon build up.

[@enginium6043]

Good tips 👍

[@brzu7589]

Hello Bud, i have a problem with my car , P0101 mass air range performance and P0402 exhaust gas recirculation A flow excessive detected

[@paul38836]

Thanks m8 good guy 😊

[@AlphaGT-R16]

Would a upstream dpf temp sensor cause limp mode ? It's the only thing showing on the code reader and it'll go for like 30 min they when you stop, it won't accelerate until restarted....

[@MartinGurbanov]

Hi, I am getting code 2530-1 - Check component M55 (Inlet port shutoff motor) short circuit to positive. I know it is connected to the swirl flaps motor, but everybody is telling me just to delete the flaps. I don't want to delete them yet, because they have been recently cleaned and checked for defects and they are fine. I have some doubts if this error is not related to the connection (the plug or the cables) I couldn't fine anything online related to this specific error. Please, do you have any idea if it might be related to the electrical wiring?

[@Thecreekysailboat]

I dont have limp mode but my ml320 can just barely get to 50, the code I got told me it was the exhaust pressure sensor. hopefully my replacement helps!

[@exoticimports1570]

2609-1 check component B19/9 - replaced the sensor to no avail.. Wondering what might the next step be

[@hugomiguel6503]

A200 2014 Car looks like its on limp mode but no engine light.. Car doesn't pass 2500rpm on each gear.. I have the error code p13c2 wich I believe exhaust flap malfunction.. is this enough to have this symptoms? Also got errors with fuel rail low pressure, fuel gauge tank b circuit high, fuel low pressure sensor.... any help please... cheers

[@dbdigital5880]

I booked my 2009 W164 OM642 with a local dealership for the field measure recall, the dealership says it’s all covered because of the class action lawsuit I’m still worried the dealer might hose me for other repairs I just bought this from a different car dealer I might have to end up doing it myself in the end

[@Andreyhappy74]

Thank You, Thank You soo much! 🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝

[@brendanmoore6869]

Hi buddy I have a CLS 350 cdi going to over boost? Po234 possible boost pressure sensor? It's had brand new turbo from Mercedes. So not wastgate or anything around it. Can you help

[@michaelvanmind]

Very good!

[@enginium6043]

Thank you 😊. I hope it helped 👍

[@MrSLX01]

Hey great video. I know it’s been two years. Hopefully you’ll see this message. I’ve got a 2011 blue tech 3.0 V6 diesel engine that’s running limp on boost throwing code P0171 mass air flow sensor bank one running to lean. Do you think it’s really a mess if it was sensor issue or could it be other issues?

[@enginium6043]

Try unplugging the sensor. See how it runs. If it is saying a mass air flow sensor and you can see the values if it's way out then replace. But maybe try to clean it first. Might not work but if it does you have saved yourself a lot of money.

[@MyScotty7]

Hi just subscribed,ive got a merc cls 60 plate with fault code p2510-1, its the actuator on the turbo you mentioned,if i buy a new one is it a straight swap or does it need calibrated to turbo? Ive also heard the wires inside can snap which can be soldered?

[@enginium6043]

Hi, If it is the actuator, you can remove it using 3 bolts (I think) and uncliping the arm. If you take off the cover you will be able to see if the wires have broken away from the solder pads. They can be resoldered. Sometimes the worm gear is broken and other times the electrics somewhere fail in them. If you are getting another actuator I'd recommend getting a refurbished one. The knock off ones don't work properly apparently and if you get it refurbed it will be the right one for your car and power output. Also don't forget to buy a circlip to fit the actuator arm.

[@MyScotty7]

@@enginium6043 thank you for advice

[@Agecatcher]

@@enginium6043 Hey there, i got almost the same code :P2510-001, it says Check component Y77/1 (Boost Pressure Regulator). Positioner signals fault. What shall i do about this?

[@lawrencehadebe6989]

Hi after getting the fault code 2513-1 i fitted the 4.7k ohms resistor my car revs increased above 3000rpm but when travelling or driving the car was jerking ( transmission) when changing gears going back and forth like shifting to the next gear and back to the Lower gear . And it went back to limp mode. Please help me how to resolve this issue

[@twiliteblue6053]

Hi, I have recently joined the same club by experiencing a very similar problem! My ML has low power, although it does rev beyond 3000rpm during kickdown. The MAP reading peaks at about 120kPa (0.2bar induction?) and MAF is about 110g/second combined @ 3300rpm (evenly split between left and right). There appears to be an EGR valve fault P0405, detailed diagnosis reported that the EGR position sensor is out of spec. Disconnecting the EGR did not change anything, and the engine did not react when manually forcing the EGR to fully open (I thought it should misfire?) The EGR valve and pipes look fairly clean, including the little nook near the throttle body at the front. I replaced the valve with an aftermarket one which didn't seem to work at all. So I'm hoping the new genuine one that's coming will fix the problem (or it's a lot of money down the drain...) Did anyone have a similar problem? Could there be a different culprit than the EGR? Additionally, the oxygen/lambda sensor seems to behave strangely. Although there is a built-in heater, the circuit never turns on. The lambda sensor voltage does not show until 5 minutes from startup, and ranges from 0.1V at full throttle, to 0.9V at idle. I thought it's suppose to hover around 0.45V! While it's been a fun learning experience, I'm at my wits' end. Any help is much appreciated.

[@twiliteblue6053]

Fixed! Turned out the EGR was the main problem. Now the boost is back to normal (200kPa = 1 bar boost) I guess the lambda sensor is fine? It still swings from 0.1V (accelerating hard) to 1.2V (at idle), but usually averages 0.5V when driving now

[@enginium6043]

Sorry I'm just getting time to respond now. That's awesome you have fixed it. Is your car running correctly, does it smell like it's overfueling, black smoke under acceleration or poor fuel consumption?

[@716kaspars]

hello, i have a chrysler 300c om 642 in limp mode. codes P0045 and oxygen sensor faul😔

[@adilsonribeirodossantos3317]

Hello Enginium, good afternoon Can You Help me in this situation please. I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited (OM642 Mercedes) after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit. I have already changed the sensor and filters and use only good diesel the obd always shows the same fault as before. could you give me some guidance? it makes me crazy Give me a tip Please..

[@user-ov4ti6vc8k]

my 2008 r320 has P2355-02 code, where should i look at and fix?

[@qbd7193]

i got the s class 2017 and got codes p010236 p010c36 p06db11 p00471 p200900 changed swirl flap motor changed oil solenoid changed turbo actuator/positioner but the problem is still there with all these codes. any help ?

[@brendendas]

I'd buy you a beer if i could. Quick question I don't have a code scanner yet, do you recommend any particular ones? The ones on amazon all say for cars 2011 and beyond but my E280 CDI is a 2007 model year. Thanks and cheers!

[@enginium6043]

You can buy any old cheap scanner. I've been using these cheap elm scanners from eBay or Amazon they are light blue see through plastic. They are under £5 but if you have an android and use torque and such apps it's very handy. I'm sure there are wifi versions for apple if that's your thing. The apps on your phone do a great job of reading codes, clearing codes and even data logging. Plus I leave them plugged in all the time so if a code comes up or I want to see coolant temp or whatever I can as who doesn't carry their phone with them.

[@brendendas]

@@enginium6043 Excellent. I probably get one of those blue cheapo ones too. I'm team Android so this shouldn't be a problem. Also my issue which is fixed now was due to a faulty exhaust back pressure sensor.

[@MrFietslicht]

Hello, I have the code p2359. Low boost. Checkt al the boost pipes. Placed a new turbo because it was broken. I have not allot power en the code p2359 stil comes back at some km's can you tell me we're i need to look at? I changed ic pipe. Turbo +actuator, intake pipe to turbo but nothing helps

[@vincenzocasafina1200]

Complimento per il video molto chiaro. Il problema che ho al momento sulla mia ML320 CDI Sport, è quando supero 140/150 KM orari per circa 1 KM. , si accende la spia del motore (gialla). Se invece viaggio a 130 KM. orari, la spia del motore rimane spenta. Anche quando nella ripresa accelero velocemente e supero i 140/150 KM orari si accende la spia motore. La spia scompare se non uso l'auto dopo 1/2 giorni.

[@grahamewealleans]

Great video, I read through the comme ts to see if anyone has is experiencing the same issues as me, but couldn't find a solution. My car revs to around 2500 rpm but the bucks or coughs continually it feels as though it is starting to boost but then it all of a sudden loses all the pressure. It will do this continually until it either throws code p0299 or just goes into limp mode (no turbo, limited to 3000 rpm) I can turn the car off and on again and get turbo back but it will do the exact same thing. I have had dpf deleted, the adblue and dpf tune done and issue still persists. Do you have any advice as to the general area? Egr valve moves freely (just taken out to check) orange seal ring i just replaced along with pcv valve. Any advice would be much appreciated.

[@enginium6043]

Try disconnecting the MAF first and see if it runs better. Has the swirl flap motor been deleted?

[@paddymickiemickie8221]

Thank you for an excellent presentation I had a similar experience with an e280 CDI Clock 186,000 Kilometers well maintained it gradually lost boost at first I thought it was a transmission faulty as it was having trouble up shifting gears ⚙️ as no grunt,no shunt brought it to Ian at Precision transmission in Perth top bloke nothing wrong with tranny but code for low boost pr coming up let it develop a bit more after a short while driving it went into limp mode and showed on my el cheapo scanner code P0473 Exhaust back pressure sensor On my mates expensive scanner it read code 2089 similar result,replaced Ex back Pr sensor with Merceedes part # Mb A009153502864 Au $215 hey presto car fixed running perfect A couple of side issues low boost pressure could be due to dirty air filters my fault also showed check engine oil levels at next refueling on dash screen Interesting as it only took half a Litre to full mark It looked like to me as a diesel mechanic that the system was hunting faults ,due to dirty air filters and failing Ex back pressure sensor It could easily have become a very expensive repair in the wrong hands Thanks again for the great informative content

[@duerhl]

Thank you for the video, I am struggling with my car similar engine 6429, W211 2009 E320 CDI. I have to drive it slowly and smoothly, otherwise it sort of like halts and jumps intermittently. The diagnostic test pointed to the Turbo Actuator, which we then replaced but it got worse after that, and now it doesn't even throw any codes, the test comes out clean. Sometimes it does this halting and skipping when it's time to change to the next gear. And sometimes when coming to a stop you can feel that cutting off power abruptly as if you pressed the brakes hard. Just for more info, there is been an oil leak by that Airflow Meter and Turbo. Just as you said, I also don't want to just throw money at it aimlessly.

[@enginium6043]

Did you replace the turbo actuator with a refurbished one or a Chinese one as the Chinese ones can give problems. Are you using the OBD2 or star to get the codes? Does it go in limp mode?

[@duerhl]

@@enginium6043 The Merc specialist replaced it with a refurbed one, not Chineese just to test and see. As for the tester, I have to check which one, but its the big one that plugs into a laptop and it shows the pic of the part and the part number if it finds a fault. They were suspecting a turbo fault afterwards, but I dont wanna throw money aimlessly coz the turbo is expensive. I am planning to but an Airflow Sensor Cleaner also.

[@duerhl]

Oh and the other thing, it actually doesn't go into limp mode.

[@enginium6043]

That's a tough one. It sounds like they are using star especially if it's a mercedes specialist. Before you clean the mafs try unplugging them and drive around like that. Also have you had your inlet swirl flaps motor checked?

[@duerhl]

@@enginium6043 Thanks, no, they didn't check the inlet swirl flap motor.

[@whitepulsarrbeli1309]

Hallo i have 2359-2 code charge pressure too high what is problem what u think?

[@DjVojto]

I have got error for back preasure sensor. I put a new one and problems ocured ass soon as aplied boost. 😭

[@davidcarmichael9696]

Hi, would you be able to tell me what causes P0046 & P0064 codes on a OM642 in a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006? Many thanks

[@davidcarmichael9696]

Hi again, I found the 2 problems: 1. I had to change the Turbo Actuator and 2. The sensor off the side of the Turbo intake pipe was gunged up. I cleaned that and then everything after that and Boom all error codes gone and it runs perfectly again. Thanks for all the assistance!

[@MrKlown83]

am i right in thinking i have to read the codes when its in limp mode, as when i restart the engine it isnt in limp mode anymore. my car loses boost when its cold and i drive quite fast and sometimes when hot to but not as often other than this its a beaut to drive

[@enginium6043]

Depends. Sometimes it will store a code. Other time it might disappear after a certain number starts.

[@jonathanwalker7638]

My 2011 e350 cdi seems to have stopped boosting but its also got a really noisy whooshing whirling sound when I try to accelerate. Almost sounds as if its in the dash so I recon looking at your video its probably in the turbo area. Any pointers to what it may be? I did think it may be a cracked pipe etc but the noise makes me think the turbo may have the issue instead? would the turbo sound excessively noisy with a cracked inlet pipe or blown green o ring? In fairness I've not even removed the engine cover as I've only had it 5 days. Phoning the dealer today but would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

[@enginium6043]

Is it just loss of boost or does it jerk and kangaroo when accelerating. Is the boost loss interment or as soon as you start the car. It could be a lot of things, without seeing it or have the codes read it would be very difficult to diagnose. If you start the car and put your hand round areas or look for signs of leaks or blows would be your first thing to look for. Then I'd get the codes read and go from there.

[@merialshkurtaj6242]

Thank you :)

[@enginium6043]

Thank you for watching and it hope it helps 👍

[@merialshkurtaj6242]

@@enginium6043 yes it did, i wish i would have seen it sooner 😄

[@mshamouda4942]

Thanks

[@APatchworkCanvas]

Cut a soda can and cover the top of the swirl flap motor to protect it from oil

[@enginium6043]

That's a great idea!

[@georgebest2499]

Does anyone know if a P2511-1 error can be solved by replacing the EGR?

[@BLahBLahBLahBLah584]

Hi Mate, my car occasionally falls into limp mode with the only faults being the Mafs. I have replaced both Mafs twice with genuine parts, but I still keep getting maf faults. Ive changed the orange seals on the turbo intake pipe, airfilters, what else could cause my faults ?

[@enginium6043]

You changed the orange pipe on the breather pipe too? I'm not 100% sure but you might have a leak somewhere in the system. What's happening when the fault comes up?

[@tejassaberwal]

I have a e320 bluetec 2008 also V6 CDI. CEL showed up as P0101 and P0299, noticed the turboboost air inlet crack and got it replaced. Still get the P0299 or 2624-1 in autel. Both MAF sensor related, car goes into limp mode if I accelerate to quick! Any advice

[@polybrizo]

Hi I have the same car, also had an O2 sensor code +p0299, replaced both intercooler inlet/outlet and issue resolved. Sealing of plastic intake on turbo was also cracked underneath. I have high fuel consumption now but no CEL or limp mode

[@julianeedham7452]

I've got a CLS 320 CDi and just started getting intermittent issue with limp home mode, mostly when hot. Thinking it's the turbo actuator. Getting codes 2510, 2616, 2668, 2032. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[@enginium6043]

Sounds like it could be. When left for a while and it's completely cool does it boost as per normal? Try getting a refurbed turbo actuator. You need to get the right one for your engine but plenty of places will send you one, you send your faulty one back and they refund you a certain amount.

[@brianwilliamson388]

Kewl video, thanks for the info its very helpful . Can i ask ?. On the Moustache shaped plastic pipe/part. Are the two areas either side with wire loom clipped in. Are these the place where the Air Intake temp sensor lives. I have a code p0112 /air intake sensor low current. Many thanks for your help.

[@enginium6043]

That's where the mafs live. Mass air flow sensor. Can you get live readings on them to see if they are working?

[@brianwilliamson388]

@@enginium6043 Hi, thanks for your reply. Throws up code p0112 , I have cleaned the sensors [both]. Let dry and still throws up code. I havent checked if its getting any Readings. I dint have a meter. Thanks. Brian

[@enginium6043]

Is the car running badly? Can you leave the sensors unplugged and try starting it? See how it runs. What problems are you having or is it just throwing a code?

[@brianwilliamson388]

@@enginium6043 I Replaced the MAFs [full unit]. Now throws up P0401 . Which im told is the EGR Valve. Thanks for your help so far sir.

[@scaife5668]

W212 E350 exhaust deep note , engine light on in limp and codes are 149ADO and 155DOO any ideas

[@enginium6043]

Are they star codes? Usually codes start with P and then numbers

[@francisdelmas1718]

J ai les 2 codes 0190 puis 2267 C est quoi d aprés vous.merci.

[@kjellsundin5486]

Working on a friend's GLK-Class 320CDI(X204), it has two codes P010B and 133B00, both point to the left MAF sensor, tried cleaning the sensors in the intake, nothing improved, then found two new MAF sensors and replaced them , but it's still the same. The engine isn't actually running bad anyway, but these codes that trigger the CEL symbol on the dash are annoying, the only thing I can add is that the MAF value at idle is a bit high, (around 16g/s) should be around 3g /s for this engine at idle 600rpm I have read. Anyone able to understand what could be wrong?

[@enginium6043]

Are the orange gaskets leaking?

[@antoniskarais8391]

W 213 E350 DIESEL ...I HAVE THIS PROMBLEM P03BE64.......WHAT CAN I DO HELP ME PLEASE

[@MihhaiMatei]

Hi. I have same car as yours. I’m facing something really strange. When I put the foot down the car behave really strange. Like is cutting off fuel , not accelerating, staying on 3.500 rpm not going higher and after a while going in limp mode. It is not always happening. Sometimes. Also some white smoke coming from my exhaust. Any idea? Thanks .

[@enginium6043]

Does it buck, stutter or kangaroo whilst accelerating? Does it only happen when the engine is warm or has been running?

[@johnnyhillen]

@@enginium6043 I have the similar problem. Car starts of OK when cold. Sometimes it will only rev to 3000rpm then bucks. This may be the case every time but I will not always rev to 3000rpm on every journey. On most journeys it will lose power and usually upshifts before 2000rpm although can rev past this when manually shifting. Also I'm going to get a fault reader. what model do you have?

[@petter7252]

@@enginium6043 i have bucking now, have had LIMP come up sometimes when the turbo gets to work a bit, then it has trown an underboost error, now i have constant bucking, but not limpmode to start with, no errorcodes, then after a while when i get past the bucking it can drive "fine"(low power, and if i continue to drive i can get LIMP mode again. It is like it gets stuck at a certan RPM then it can jump up again, and suddenly starts bucking/jumping or something, no errorcodes, if i have it at normal rpm and downshifts, it refuses to go over 3000 and cuts fuel until it is under or that i have depressed the gas pedal. Have actuated EGR, seems to work fine, have actuated turbo actuator, seems to work fine, tried swirl, seems to work fine, no error codes on DPF yet.

[@00000Rueda00000]

I’ve got an 09 CLS Grand Edition 3.0 V6 Diesel. Mine has started on first start not going above 2000 rpm, no turbo , no warning lights. Turn off the car restart it and it’s perfect. It has started doing it while driving and warm. Put it into the garage and they said they got a fault cam positioning sensor which was changed at £220 and it’s made no difference. When it started it did it once then not again for 6 weeks then it’s gradually doing it more frequently. Any advice is welcome?

[@enginium6043]

I'd try the turbo actuator. There are a few places that refurb them but will send you out one first and then you send them your unit back. I used turbo vanes online.

[@00000Rueda00000]

@@enginium6043 Thanks

[@claudiocosterni6488]

I stopped halfway through your video and wrote this. I have 3 of these... wonderful Mercedes engines, installed in the engine bays of three Jeep Grand Cherokee WKs. There are some differences in some external elements, but basically the OM642 engine is the same. For a few weeks one of these Jeeps of mine has been experimenting with Limb mode. Some call it "Limb Home" mode, not just Limb. Which is the correct one? I have purchased various spare parts that my mechanic will have to replace. There is an obvious oil leak which appears to be mainly caused by the smaller orange seal near the turbo on the T-joint of the flexible Air Cleaner To Turbo Hose [53013672AE], and by the nearby CCV/PCV, the oil separator/crankcase black valve. I wonder if in addition to these parts and the underlying external components to be replaced relating to the two intake manifolds [actuator motor, joints and arms], it is appropriate to go even deeper and also replace the 2 oil cooler gaskets [which I have already purchased, included in a repair kit supplied by IDParts]. But since we cannot see it from the outside, we cannot know what state it is in. In any case, it will be a long, complex and exhausting task, I understand this well, and consequently also very expensive as workforce. Can you give me some suggestion?

[@enginium6043]

Limp mode is short for limp home mode but either is valid. Ok it's good you have noticed the leak at the top. The arms etc are for the swirl flaps, usually the dripping oil from where your car is leaking breaks that motor. So people just leave them open and use the resistor trick. The oil cooler will need done at some point depending on the year of production. It also depends how long you want to keep the cars, how much you are willing to spend and if you are doing it yourself or not. Its quite a big job, good chance to clean and sort everything but it's close to 10hours labour so I've heard.

[@claudiocosterni6488]

@@enginium6043 thank you.

[@wrjeezy15]

Got a red lightning bolt, no start & a p0245 and p0047. I’ll take any advice leading into a direction

[@enginium6043]

Hi Nich, Without seeing it I'd start with the swirl flap motor and the turbo actuator but swirl flap motor first. What happened before it wouldn't start again?

[@wrjeezy15]

@@enginium6043 So I’ve replaced the turbo actuator & I have the resistor mod for the swirl flap. I now believe I have a fuel issue cause I don’t hear any fuel priming when I turn the key to the on position. I’ve replaced the fuel pressure sensor recently. Wondering if my regular fuel pump went out or the high pressure pump

[@716kaspars]

Chek fuse😉

[@jesperlovgen7491]

P145E00 cant find nothing about that code. Do you know?

[@stephenleastwood8814]

My 2006 W203 3.0 V6 cdi intermittently gets code P2A00

[@edvardbrilevic7649]

Hello what fault code P123900 low boost presure

[@marekerin1057]

Yes u can change the map sensor, jusy take the metal clips off

[@enginium6043]

The map or the MAF?

[@marekerin1057]

@@enginium6043 these sensors that u referred to, 1 on each side

[@enginium6043]

Ok I didn't realise. Mine look like they are stuck in there. Good to know 👍

[@marekerin1057]

@@enginium6043 yea that is what they told me also, but it was really easy to clip them off and used ones were like 15 euros a piece. Do you have email or would u mind to chat little bit about 642. And weird problems

[@SW-qr8qe]

I wish I understood this one : P2646 OBDII: Rocker arm actuator A, bank 1 - performance problem or actuator stuck off A stuck cam actuator, I guess but which cam?

[@gingertronix]

Did you ever find out the solution? I have the same code?

[@SW-qr8qe]

@@gingertronix yeah - I had a rubbish code reader that was mixing up the codes. Bought an iCarSoft MB reader and the fault was something else all together. Forgot what, sorry. Really recommend the iCarSoft. Really powerful dealer level control, far more then just reading codes

[@joseguzman1839]

I’ve been getting a P0101 code on my 07 ml320 cdi. Replaced the filters, y pipe with the maf sensors. Still getting the code. Any ideas on what it’s causing it?

[@enginium6043]

Hi Jose, Is it in limp mode? If you unplug the mafs and drive it does it boost normally? Since you replaced the mafs I doubt it would be that but worth a try. I would then check for air leaks and especially around the turbo and orange seals. Then I'd check your MAP sensor. Someone on here had a similar problem and it turned out it was their throttle body. But I'd start with the easy stuff first and make sure it's nothing obvious before going to the next step 👍

[@joseguzman1839]

@@enginium6043 no limp mode, truck runs good just the check engine light is on. I’ll disconnecting the maf sensors and checking the map sensor as well. Where’s the throttle body on this particular engine?

[@enginium6043]

If you have no limp mode that's great. It's the position sensor in the throttle body that goes bad. Depending on which way the engine is fitted in the car. When looking at the engine it will on the bottom left connected to a hose. Have you checked your swirl flap motor isn't covered in oil?

[@joseguzman1839]

@@enginium6043 I haven’t but that might be it since it has a small leak

[@enginium6043]

@@joseguzman1839 That might be enough to do it. Whilst you are there it's worth checking the orange seals that fit the turbo and PCV, pipes around the turbo and intercooler as there are various seals that can fail.

[@ukaszjurys2475]

Turbo actuator, B60 sensor...

[@davidW-lo1oq]

Great video 👍I have a 2010 CLS 350 CDI codes 2572and2355 shown egr I replaced with new egr valve and still the same basically from cold car starts and cuts out jerking etc but when I unplug egr valve car starts and runs fine but boost is down once warm plug egr back in and reset light it boosts fine any info would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance

[@enginium6043]

Did you buy this from near Newcastle?

[@davidW-lo1oq]

Yes

[@enginium6043]

I'm quite interested in this. You've replaced the egr. Have you checked for any breaks in the inlet piping? When you removed the egr what was route into the inlet manifold like did it look like it was caked in carbon?

[@davidW-lo1oq]

After some more Pocking about and putting in a resister to by pass swirl flaps cars still boosting good with engine management light on but today I done a live data and bank sensor 1 was not functioning it stayed at 1.999 so my next step is to replace bank sensor 1 and hopefully that's the culprit be next week before I get round to doing this so will keep you posted

[@enginium6043]

Fantastic. I've read that clogged inlet pipe from the egr can potentially throw swirl flap codes as they can't operate properly or might see air coming in they shouldn't. I hope that's a easy cheap fix for you 👍

[@Rambobambo007]

Best video , 👍 brov can you fix mine same issue

[@TheKlm285]

Hi there, i have a viano 639 with om642.990. ive been driving 2 months without turbo as it quit on harder acceleration of hard shoulder, MIL says p0101 mas or volume airflow A circuit range/performance .Car runs flat as no boost at al I have tried almost all you mentioned,turbo acuator moves freely while accelerating,swirl flaps are on resistor now without any changes,only havent tried back pressure sensor. im really nagged with this car for 6 months i owe it,rattling TC,leaking injectors,egr is stuck in housing and after 2 day attempt to remove it managed to move an inch to each side but no up movement just managed to chip off few aluminium edges and make gasket leak on drive belt.but the turbo is a main issue and i really run out off ideas as under p0101 could be anything. Regards Igors

[@enginium6043]

Hi Igors, Ok so a few things to check. Do you have any leaks? You checked all the joints and pipes? Check for soot or blowing or sucking noises. Secondly can you unplug the mafs and try clearing the codes and see if that helps. If you try that and nothing happens let me know and we can try some other things 👍

[@TheKlm285]

@@enginium6043 Thanks for your input, i've spent another whole day in engine bay,discovered interesting things. first of all i took off all turbo hoses resonator both sides intercooler inspected and assembled with new seals. no audiable vacum noises. maf unpluged -no difference. once code cleared is back after 2-5 restarts. cleaned back pressure sensor. cleaned boost pressure sensor. cat temps booth sides seems ok,so no cat blockage,dpf cleaned. turbo vanes arm travels freely up and down. but then comes turbo actuator removed inspected all solders and pcb seems like new. the thing is when ingnition off arm down,when car start it shoots full up,when accelerate even did drive test arm stays up even uder load and no boost. engine off arm down disconected actuator connector and started car arm of coure stayd down and wholaa full boost, plug it back arm up and no boost. while was driving without turbo rpm's were not limmited,did a test drive with unplaged actuator connector boost was there but sluggish as went in lhm by limmiting to 3k rpm. so im puzzled something is not telling actuator not to move when boost requested hence no boost,coud this still be actuator fault or its getting such an info do dont open close vanes under boost. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6Dcdaacedpnr5Y my actuator just comes from down position to full up and stays still and up when started it should be in down position ,dosent work like in video above and another 5 videos ive seen,even more my seems to work opposite direction when car is started unlike one in video ,but gears in box seems fine and it travels from down to full up on start COULD GEARS HAVE SLIPPED A FULL TRAVEL UNDER HEAVY LOAD? BECAUSE MY ACUATOR SEEMS TO BE WORKIN COMPLEATLY OPPOSITE WAY THEN OTHERS. will remove it tomorrow and inspect more thoroughly,taking in account circumstances when i lost turbo by pulling off in fully loaded van up to 4k rpm to merge on motorway. P.S checked actuator connector,pernament positive 12v, ground good,signal vire 3.5v. what about egr,could stuck open egr cause this? like in this video where egr is removed i noticed that turbo actuator is up and never moved : kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHyYhY1sf955eck Many thanks Igors

[@enginium6043]

Hi Igors, It's a possibility the worm drive and gears have worn or slipped. A stuck egr can cause bad running also. If you are able to check it's not clogged up and is functioning properly that would at least show that it's not the egr. Also there is another user Stephen he has a problem with his throttle body. Maybe check that too? In regards to the actuator I would imagine if it's not the gears and drive it is probably moving the opposite way so it's keeping the wastegate open not to product boost as something else is wrong in the car telling it to go into limp mode. But still worth checking out.

[@TheKlm285]

@@enginium6043 After more inspection i would exclude actuator at least gear box, its not mint condition but seems havent slipped or degraded beyond functionality, connected it manually and it travels effortlessly full cycle. how about pcb it self maybe its giving wrong comands to motor? EGR as mentioned above it took two days in attempt to remove it as it is easy accesible at front by radiator, but yet i just managed to damage it,it wont badge up not even milimeter so no way to spray in any peneterating oil or else, but its now number 1 suspect on the list :) Disconected egr connector started car after first start egr was pending code, after 3rd start mil was on. Out of desperation plugged in 4.7k resistor as in swirl flaps signal and feed wire after 15 starts egr no confirmed no pending no mil on obd, but still no boost. for past 2 months noticed that egr is comanded at 5% and never ever been different posittion during drive/idle and egr error -0.8%-99.2% jumps, so i pressume it might be stuck. Could it be just simply MAF? Please see all relevant pictures in links: ibb.co/9YH8q8H ibb.co/LC7bcKs ibb.co/dKJF8vM ibb.co/hY4nBt4 ibb.co/09h5znC ibb.co/DMxKQZ3 ibb.co/D8J4ZD1 ibb.co/dbSRGb6 ibb.co/R9zjMsh Regards.

[@enginium6043]

Hi Igors, Ok so your actuator looks ok, your worm drive and gear looks in decent condition (although that doesn't mean its ok) but it does look ok. Also on the pcb there is little wires going to solder pads on the sides. They can deteriorate and go loose over time but usually that starts with loosing boost when hot/warm. But they look ok from the pictures. This is a tough one, I'd personally start with the EGR. Usually if it is the MAF disconnecting it will sometimes make it run in closed loop. MAF's do go wrong in these cars but it's not super common, whereas the EGR is a fairly common problem. Does your scan tool show the throttle position value?

[@ossi8221]

hi my friend. i have a big problem with my car (ML320 CDI 2007 OM642). it is the P0244 (turbo actuator). I changed it with an original refurbished one. I sent my to them to get the 100€ back. So i put the new one in and my car has the same problem... It has to be another problem because the new turbo actuator is 100% working ( i testet it with a diagnose tester). Do you know what sensors has to do with the turbo actuator? I mean what sensors gives the turbo actuator the signals? i think its a sensor problem but i dont know what sensor. please help me

[@marcinmaksylewicz4150]

Have you fixed it?

[@ossi8221]

@@marcinmaksylewicz4150 yes

[@marcinmaksylewicz4150]

@@ossi8221 And what was the problem? Seized internals in the turbo?

[@ossi8221]

@@marcinmaksylewicz4150 yes the Variable turbo geometry Was Stuck because of Parts from the exhaust pipe (thats fits on the turbo) got loose and got into the turbo. I swapped the turbo with a refurbisehd one für 180€ now its good

[@jezkhan5448]

Hi guys I have them same engine in a 2005 CLS just spent £750! Dpf removal no codes showing still no boost pressure?

[@enginium6043]

Is it intermittent or just no boost at all?

[@jezkhan5448]

@@enginium6043 hi buddy thanks for replying! No it’s no boost at all no EmL no fault codes stored

[@DjVojto]

Fix for motor for variable flaps is what? I do t get a world of the explanation and i thought i am good at english..

[@tehdreamer]

You can just buy MAF sensor separately on ebay for £30ish quid new.

[@enginium6043]

That's great. Do they work well? I've tried some off brand mafs in the past and they never worked well but I don't doubt they are much better now.

[@tehdreamer]

@@enginium6043 Havent bought them yet. But i have a few MAF related fault codes. Tried taking them out and cleaning with contact cleaner, but still there are codes, although the values seemed to have improved. I think its the PCV valve gone so its spraying oil back into the turbo and the intake pipe where the MAFs sit get lots of oil which then lands on the MAF I believe. So I ordered new PCV valve bit and going for the round 3 of clean lol. If not, then buying new MAFs.

[@scottgordon7079]

All that and you never point out where the DPF sensor is located???

[@enginium6043]

This car doesn't have a dpf. Why would there be a dpf sensor on a car that doesn't have one?

[@stephenrowlands843]

Hi , well have I got a problem! Get your head around this if you can. My 2011, C350 CDI (204223)OM642 recently went into limp mode with a max rev of 2800rpm. Mileage is 68000 miles It gave a code P0402 (14A700) excess flow... Scanned with - Creader Viii Launch I checked EGR, found signal problem (using voltmeter) and replaced EGR. (MB) Pressure sensor EGR gas A0071534328 replaced (MB) - because the plug socket was loose Pressure sensor charge air A0061539928 replaced Charge air temp sensor replaced - see comment below # DPF pressure sensor A0061539528 replaced (MB) - I had damaged it removing from the pipe!! DPF pressure pipes removed and checked - all clean and clear. Manifolds and associated pipework recently removed (5000miles back) and cleaned of all carbon deposits Swirl flap motor bypassed with 4.7kohm resistor. Intercooler pipework checked PCV rear seal changed MAF sensors input/output checked No signs of any air leaks with smoke test) Turbo vanes free to move and actuator functioning correctly and receiving correct voltage. Voltages checked on above sensors Scan shows pressures flow etc all correct DPF has ash content of 0.01g and soot content 4.51g, so ok with pressure difference shown on scan. Have disconnected battery and allow ecu capacitors to drain to reset ecu Supply from ecu to above electrical components all correct at either 12v or 5 volt where required. All this and I have the same problem still! #Odd thing though, the charge air temp sensor I fitted was a generic one which was meant to be suitable for this car but it gave another code for it. After fitting it the P0402 went (well briefly at least). I put the old original temp sensor back in and the temp sensor code went but the P0402 returned. I am currently waiting for a MB Temp A6511530028 sensor. The pressure control valve pins (two pins) (the sensor on the breather pipe that connects to the turbo inlet) have direct continuity between them. So the voltage is the same for both of them when connected 12v. Should this be so? Seems odd to me. The plug itself, when disconnected, has one terminal at 12v and the other at 3.5v. Any thoughts on this? One thing I need clarity on though is the talk of clearing the ECU / or ensuring "adaptaion" of the new parts. I might have thought that disconnecting the battery and discharging the ECU might have the same effect, but I could be wrong. Perhaps the ECU is still "seeing" the original fault? Your views would be appreciated. Cheers

[@enginium6043]

Hi Stephen, That's a lot to get into. I don't currently have my mercedes anymore but I'll try to assist. So reading through what you have done, you know your stuff! You have checked for leaks, used a proper code reader, replaced all faulty sensors. Your reader even has live logging and you are saying all the pressures etc are correct. That's a tough one. You have checked everything I would have checked. Did you check the back pressure sensor? You have also changed the air pressure sensor. Are you getting any boost or none at all and a limit of 2.8krpm? So long as you are clearing the faults in your code reader, draining the ecu shouldn't really do much. As you say it will make "adaptions" but it still has to keep within parameters. I assume you are working on the car yourself or is it a garage or Merc?

[@stephenrowlands843]

@@enginium6043 Hi, thanks for your reply. I have always fixed my own cars/vans/trucks and others from the smallest things to engine and gearbox rebuilds - used to be a diesel fitter/ hydraulics, then aircraft engineer/tech/ then did physics teaching. So anything mechanical or electrical, I'm happy with along with problem solving. This is a problem at the moment, checking a circuit diagram to see what's connected. I've have a couple of thoughts but I may need someone with a scanner to reset the ecu (if it comes to that), I have not tested the ecu yet but have some checks I can make.There is no boost as the limp mode is protecting the system (although the turbo is fine along with the actuator). Anyway, many thanks for your input. I always say " it can be fixed"!

[@enginium6043]

You can tell you come from that sort of background with how throughly and logically you went through the fault finding. Do you have a local independent or mb dealer to have them read and clear the codes with STAR?

[@stephenrowlands843]

@@enginium6043 Cheers! Not locally, but I have a couple of final checks to do first anyway. It's also crossed my mind that the limp mode might be caused by the auto box first which creates the no boost to save the engine etc, then when the engine is revved to 3000 rpm, and the throttle is WOT, this means there is a massive excess of air flow in the system which then triggers the P0402 code. So instead of it being to an engine issue, the engine is responding to a box issue! Mind you my scanner did not show faults in the box , but ay be limited in what it can read there. Tomorrow I will isolate the box electrically and see what happens...... Watch this space...

[@enginium6043]

Please keep us posted, it might help someone in the future too 😊

[@buck3655]

Mercedes Overpriced Rubbish

[@enginium6043]

Mercedes are very nice cars. But when they start to break you have it question why mercedes would engineer it so poorly.

[@karldingbat]

1 of the worst engines ever made 👎👎