Mercedes Ke-Jetronic - Does the ECU fail?

[@vmlelectronics]

When I've bought my 260E I've checked all the modules and replaced dried capacitors and ressoldered the joints, saving the OVP relay!

[@asineprestanou5221]

Hello, i just want to say, that it can fail. Every soldering point is week point, after some time and very temp changes, that solder point can be weaker and resistence will increase until its fail. But its a easy repair, if you have solder gun and some knowledge, its easy.

[@carlosramirez-vt3vc]

Maestro cuando UD pueda y si el tiempo se lo permite sería buenísimo escucharlo en español.gracias y saludos

[@herrickmky]

Hi, want to learn from you that what would the KE Jetronic car behave at idle without the ECU? Running rich, higher than the normal 750 rpm? thanks in advance

[@mercedeske]

A bit higher idle the car wouldn't have so much power but it wouldn't stall.

[@herrickmky]

@@mercedeske Many thanks!

[@mercedeske]

@@herrickmky My pleasure

[@RetroRehabRepair]

Thanks for the video. I was about to change my ECU because it is showing strange behaviour. My 85 190E has bad idle. It runs fine without ECU, but not with the ICU connected. I checked the duty cycle reading. I know it is supposed to read 70% on ignition on as a baseline but mine shows 48,4%. I know I should read 30% with the coolant temp. sensor disconnected but the reading does not change. It stays at 48,4%. Any ideas? Thanks for all you videos!

[@mercedeske]

Do you have lambda? If it or any other sensors are bad you won't get the fluctuation around 50% Greetings and thanks.

[@RomasTam]

I have a bit different themed question - does the injection system fail (the part with the plate) or can it be rebuilt with new seal kit? The plate is straight and every other thing is new/replaced except the unit itself and I'm starting to suspect that it is not working properly. I don't want to buy a used unit for 200-400euros, but I might try to rebuild it. So that's my question, if you don't mind - does it wear out or can it be brought back with seals to like new condition?

[@mercedeske]

As for the fuel distributor - just avoid ethanol containing fuel like hell! Nothing is going to fail inside, don't worry. The only thing that can destroy them is ethanol. Mine is working for 33 years and it is still working perfectly. Cleaning and replacing the diaphragm will make no effect on your car so don't waste your money or time on rebuilding the unit. You have on my channel the folder on the fuel distributor. I was talking about it in 4 parts. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJe3oZh4drlnaJI

[@RomasTam]

@@mercedeske Thank you for your reply, I'll make sure to watch the video, because the fuel distributor is still a bit scary to me! The car didn't have ethanol in it, only e95 fuel. The problem I'm having is jerking back and forth on partial throttle (like 5-15% throttle) and it is very annoying. Maybe you have made a video on this topic and could link it, because I couldn't find one?

[@mercedeske]

@@RomasTam Check the fuel pressure regulator. Hook up the pressure gauge on the lower chamber of the distributor and when you press the accelerator, the pressure must drop for 0.1bar at most. I can show you how it has to look like having a functional fuel pressure regulator. Replace the fuel filter, if nothing changes test the fuel pressure regulator. This is what you have to get! instagram.com/p/CY91nRpKta9/

[@RomasTam]

@@mercedeske Watched your video on pressure regulator and I think that might be the problem. The only thing is that I'm not a mechanic and I don't have a way to check the pressure. Will any cheap (I'm a student, so the cheaper - the better) fuel pressure tester have the necessary fittings or is it something rare and I'll need to buy it seperatly? Sorry for bothering with questions...

[@mercedeske]

You don't have to be a mechanic for this. If you can find a fitting with the thread 8x1 and hook it up to the pressure gauge then that's it. You will be needing 2 more copper or aluminum washers and that's it. What you saw is not a professional pressure gauge($120), it's a cheap improvisation but it does the job! Watch one more video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqeyc36mfseqkNU

[@omurguleryuz6709]

Hello I have an m103 engine vehicle, all the sensors have been changed, the distributor has been maintained, the poti is new but it works unbalanced sometimes and the idle speed does not increase. Could this be another reason? Could the ECU be faulty?

[@mercedeske]

If the ECU was faulty, the cold start would be bad and the start in general. Concerning the poti - have you calibrated it?

[@user-uo2uz9kg5u]

My car won't turn on the dash, fuel pump and heaters when I turn the key, after a while it will start working, is there a solution? All the fuses are fine, but I found one on the OVP was blown and I replaced it, but it's the same.

[@mercedeske]

Is it about a diesel or a petrol car?

[@carlosramirez-vt3vc]

Lastima que no es en español maestro.

[@georgesand4629]

I’ve got a 86’ 420 sel that has a fluctuating idle from 600-650 rpm. The ICV was replaced with another one and all vac leaks fixed. Any ideas on what is going on?

[@mercedeske]

The rubber boot?

[@michaelnaeimollah1825]

@@mercedeske do you have any videos replacing the boot on a w124?

[@nartech_la5125]

@@michaelnaeimollah1825 🤣

[@diemme568]

hi , very interesting as always. here I found some "literature" about the ICU - it's a W124 ECU, but I think not the same version. however the tuber says *that* model it CAN go "kaputt" - not entirely, but the capacitors shown do, they age and dry up. Also, important: it *can* be repaired. maybe other versions, too, can have the same issue. Look at the video, it's very good. hope it maybe helps someone in the community! bye. video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpmTe5Vqrq2Gisk

[@mercedeske]

Yes, I know. But it depends which version of the ECU you have. If you have the newer one with integrated circuits I doubt you will be able to do something. Watch the very beginning of this video! kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKWbmXuorbOFfKc

[@diemme568]

@@mercedeske yes, as the other video's guy said, also. Yet, maybe a lot of W124 have the other version... (I've got the newer one) so I thought it was good to point out that with _that_ model, some cases are not irrecuperable! keep up the brilliant work! ciao

[@Gamingabc]

Does the ecu would be the problem of very hard and long car starting?

[@mercedeske]

The ECU no. Is it about the long COLD or WARM cranking?

[@Gamingabc]

@@mercedeske I think cold start is even better is than warm, was no problem with starting car last year. Now since winter is over, ride only few times and now suddenly very poor starting, need to hold key for almost 10sec to start the car

[@mercedeske]

For the warm start check the fuel accumulator. For the cold - cold start valve and coolant temperature sensor.

[@LaPoYo]

Bonjour à nouveau ! comment tester le boîtier ECU s’il vous plaît ? Car ma voiture cale, le moteur s’étouffe, car mélange trop riche, mais je n’ai touché à rien.. le moteur cale même quand je débraye en roulant…

[@mercedeske]

La meilleure façon de tester l'ECU est sur votre potentiomètre et la plus simple. Si votre ECU est mauvais, vous n'aurez aucune tension sur le potentiomètre (à condition que tous les fils soient bons). Pour régler correctement le mélange, vous avez besoin d'un potentiomètre qui fonctionne bien, le lambda ainsi que le eha. A 80 °C, mesurez la tension sur votre port X11 et vous devrez obtenir une fluctuation de 6,6 à 7,3 V. Ensuite, votre mélange sera réglé correctement.

[@LaPoYo]

@@mercedeske Le EHA se test ? merci d’avance :)

[@mercedeske]

@@LaPoYo Pour ce test, vous devez avoir 3 cordons à pince, 2 crocodile à banane et un avec les deux crocodiles. Retirez le connecteur eha, collez un fil à pince dans le connecteur et sa deuxième partie à la broche de l'eha, la seconde (deux crocodiles) va au multimètre positif et la dernière au connecteur eha et au multimètre négatif. Mettez le contact et vous devez obtenir 20mA. Si vous obtenez une valeur négative, échangez les fils de votre multimètre. Au fur et à mesure que la voiture atteint sa température de fonctionnement, vous devrez obtenir une fluctuation autour de 0, entre -3 et 0mA

[@Ayanushh_]

Здравствуйте. У меня нет оборот прогрева. Как устранить оборот прогрева?

[@mercedeske]

Hello. Check your thermostat.

[@Ayanushh_]

Термостат нормально. Когда заводишь машину на холодную оборот двигателя должн подняться выше тысячи оборотов. Мне придётся держать педаль

[@mercedeske]

That depends on the system you have If you have a KEIII(staring from 1988) then the system has to hold the idle for some 28 seconds after cold start before the RPM drop to about 800. If you have KEIII then there is an issue there, if you have an older type then everything is okay.

[@Ayanushh_]

У меня машина 1991 года.

[@Ayanushh_]

Какие симптомы может быть? Из-за потенциометра может быть?

[@bobobobo1646]

Sorry,Not agree with you Ivica

[@mercedeske]

Okay, tell me what happened and how did you know that it's the ecu?

[@bobobobo1646]

@@mercedeske I haven’t the current on EHA . I Checked continuity and voltage on the plug ECU (positions1,20 ,10/12) everything ok but still no current on EHA plug so I change th ECU and plug on EHA has the current . It not the first time that I had the problem for ECU but we are focusing on the engine 103 , 117 maybe more défaut on ECU with this type on engine . Regard Bobo

[@emilgadimov9329]

@@bobobobo1646 the same problem also on my car. no current on plug EHA. today opened ECU for check. Donot want to buy .Maybe will fix it