Mercedes Ke-Jetronic - Sensor plate height adjustment

#fixyourmercedes##mercedeskejetronic##sensorplateheightadjustment#
In this video find out how to adjust the sensor plate if you experienced detonations which made your sensor plate resting too high, higher than usual, or if you out of who knows which reason hammered a wedge that regulates the starting position of the sensor plate height. If the sensor plate is too high or too low you will have vacuum leaks you won't be able to start your car easy and many other issues may arise. The detonations happen when the mixture is too lean - this is a common issue for those who drive their cars on LPG. The detonations can curve the sensor plate and then only the replacement is the solution. In this video I show what to do and how deep or high you can go when setting the height of the sensor plate. In some segments of this video I did it extremely high so DON'T DO THIS LIKE ME!!! I just wanted to show you what happens and how it looks like if you hammer the wedge too much. On some occasions you may curve the sensor plate when lowering it back. The last thing to do when you are done is to recalibrate the potentiometer because you changed the signal This is why this operation is very delicate and painful. Under normal circumstances you won't have to do this operation as well as nothing concerning the sensor plate except for the potentiometer replacement. Once again - DON'T EXPERIMENT ON YOUR CAR, IT CAN BE A BIG PAIN TO GET IT BACK RUNNING AS IT WAS!!!
Follow my advice and you will have a happy running car!
Happy Mercedesing!!!
What am I talking about?
My topic is the KE-Jetronic injection system which I try to demystify as much as I can.
For all of you to understand the system in brief - Developed in 1973 and being mounted into cars up to 1993 as it went in history. But why these to letters!?(KE) K(from German "kontinuierlich" meaning continuos, without interruption) the MECHANICAL injection system on which the fuel starts flowing from the fuel tank sucked by the FUEL PUMP and delivered to the FUEL DISTRIBUTOR which sends fuel to the INJECTORS while the majority of it flows through the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR through its return line back to the fuel tank again. The letter E(electronic) has to mark the electronic sensors (the developement starting from early eighties) which had to inform the ECU about the current state of the engine so that the ECU(Electronic Control Unit) then could create current signal in mAmp(miliampers) and send it to four crucial components for the system - the EHA(the electro-hydraulic actuator,a unit consisting of a magnet, an electromagnet and a baffle plate) which had to fine tune the engine in each of its phases, the ICV(the idle control valve), the unit which was predicted for the engines perfect idle, the X11(the diagnostic socket) where the duty cycle(the ideal mixture) was adjusted and the X11/4(the code reader) - the socket which from any codes were read if present using an OBD1 scanner.
An extraordinary injection system which could be fully repaired in your own garage using a multimeter and a pressure gauge only for its fine tuning, together with some common tools.
"Happy Mercedesing"
Link to my instagram profile
/ fix_your_mercedes
Link to my fb group
/ fix-your-mercedes-1020...

[@diemme568]

excellent video; I did that, too... I can testify the 300 CE 6 cylinders (1990) - which looks a bit different overall - also has the same "geography" as shown; you can regulate the sensor plate's resting position in pretty much the same way. However, I was dissatisfied with the pin looking "messed around with" because it wasn't flush any more with the outer housing surface.... so... I tried something else. And perhaps you could as well; if you already opened the airflow meter, and you like both the un-messed look *and* the sensor plate at the right height, try what follows, I'll try my best English (I'm Italian) to explain what I've done. I had already opened the airflow meter, because of a detonation so I had it in my hands upside down, and was looking into it. Like in this video, the long lever bearing the sensor plate reaches its resting position when the sturdy, short pin mounted on the "secondary lever" (the shorter one, the one that effectively regulates the fuel by hitting the plunger in the fuel distributor) hits against a plate. But that plate isn't fixed: it acts like a "spring" (also visible in the video). ((( And BTW: why is this "spring" there in the first place? I think it's there precisely for the case of *backfires* (which I've had): on detonation, the rubber boot swells due to increased internal pressure and and the sensor plate is violently pushed outside. But then the secondary lever's pin would hit the plate while the airflow meter is still airtight, so the hot gases wouldn't be able to escape the unit, therefore either breakage/bending of the lever arm or the sensor plate... or the "boot's" explosion would all happen........if it weren't for the *spring* action of the plate itself, giving in and allowing lever and sensor plate to overextend and open a gap where the hot gases can breathe out and escape the unit without major damages; more often than not, that is !! That's perhaps also the reason for a rubber bottom, or "boot", which also absorbs part of the explosion's energy, by swelling - hopefully not rupturing (sadly... mine has, slightly). Anyhow: IDK whether it's its true function; it's my conjecture, however, if you try to push the sensor plate over its resting position with your fingers, you'll see and feel the spring plate bending and giving in ))) But apart from this "emergency overextension" via "spring" action, the "normal" range of motion of the sensor plate should only extend to the point where the pin on the secondary lever hits the spring plate without bending it; the spring shouldn't need to give in, under normal circumstances. Now the short pin hitting the spring plate defines the sensor plate's resting position: there's a 1:3 ratio between plate elevation and the furthermost part of the sensor plate's elevation: raise the spring plate by 1 mm and the sensor plate further end raises by 3 mm. Therefore, In order to restore a lower position of the sensor plate after a detonation, it's the spring *plate* , that has to move back to its original, less bent position; but it can't: the spring it is being held loaded (deflected) by a *ring* tightly fitted onto the long pin that you see from the outside. By design, that long pin is held level with the outer surface, but what *really* counts is the height of the *ring* tightly fitted onto it; it's that ring that holds the spring plate in place, and so defines the resting position of the sensor plate ! So: if you haven't dismounted the airflow meter, obviously you can only hammer the pin down with the ring on it, restoring both a less loaded spring plate and a lower position for the sensor plate, like shown in the video... but then you can see it from the outside, because the head of the long pin isn't flush with the surface any more. But if the unit is open already, it's worth its time to restore all of the initial positions, but how? well.. if you hold the unit upside down, the "RING" has to slide "UP" towards you along the pin in order to let the spring plate relax a bit, but you can't grab it with plyers or so: it's too hard to do. But if you - holding it upside down - place something (a couple nuts, a screw of the right height, a pile of 5 Cent coins, anything) between spring plate and the housing's "bottom" (which in reality would be the ceiling, in normal orientation) you can hold the spring plate in place - and the ring which rests on the plate - while you hammer the pin -- AND ONLY THE PIN -- on its *bottom* till its *head* comes out "up" on the other side (the outer surface of the housing) just the desired amount of mm (you know how much, because there's a 1:3 ratio to the further end of the sensor plate elevation). . Since by hammering on the pin's bottom you made it slide away from you, but plate and ring, being held in place by the 5 Cent coin pile, haven't moved, then the ring has actually moved towards you, relative to the pin. To see it happen, simply flip the unit into normal operational orientation, grab the hammer again and hammer the pin's head that has come out of the outer surface of the housing, until it's flush with that surface again. If it's not enough, just repeat: it takes only 1 minute. if it's excessive, hammer from the bottom again to re-raise the sensor plate. RESULT IS: the sensor plate is at the right height again, AND the pin is flush with the outer surface of the housing. OK... was just to try to help ! ciao!

[@r3FMusic]

Thanks for video..

[@mercedeske]

You are welcome.....Always my pleasure!!!

[@peterarvaszulu5069]

Vert educative - zambia

[@mercedeske]

Thanks a lot! Greetings from Serbia!

[@vijaywaingankar8352]

Whatagreatvideogreat

[@mercedeske]

Thanks. Happy Mercedesing 😃

[@eri197395]

Now im get the calibración im ok im happy im Fix my self my Rolls royce

[@mercedeske]

Glad to hear that. 🍀🍀🍀👍🏻💪🏻😃👏🏻

[@nickyborrisino]

Somewhere out there, there is an engineer who helped design this Jetronic system shaking his head in disbelief.

[@mercedeske]

And somewhere out here there is someone who was rebuilding the very first K-Jetronic fuel distributor shaking his head in disbelief and asking himself who is the retard wise guy who designs an iron cast fuel distributor which for V8 engines weights at least 11 pounds with an aluminum diaphragm as a sealant between the two chambers!?

[@mansdahlberg2613]

Why does my car only start when putting a screwdriver to make a gap when starting the car? it makes a gap of 4mm to start otherwise it WONT... pls help? cant find a vacuumleak as well...

[@mercedeske]

Hello. This happens if you have been turning the mixture screw for too much counterclockwise.. Try turning the screw clockwise. It should react(but remember for how much.

[@mansdahlberg2613]

@@mercedeske alright! Thanks for answer. How much should I start with? But still, does it matter and affect the plate to not get drawn down?

[@mercedeske]

@@mansdahlberg2613 The plate must deflect while you are starting the car. If this doesn't happen, the plunger(the central piston in the fuel distributor) won't move and NO FUEL will be able to flow towards the cylinders. Let it be 2mm for the beginning.

[@mansdahlberg2613]

@@mercedeske wooow! 1 full turn and a half clockwise and it starts immediately! I hope it will go smooth and not to rich or the other way! Thanks 🤩💯

[@mercedeske]

@@mansdahlberg2613 My pleasure. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 👍🏻 💪🏻 😊

[@n00byWan]

Nice video !

[@mercedeske]

Thanks

[@kelvindass1150]

Can you take out black cover show inside then teach how to adjust air thank you 🙏🏽

[@mercedeske]

The air can not be adjusted. There is one way to adjust the air by determining the position of the sensor plate and by adjusting the mixture screw, BUT, if you know for sure that this screw has never been readjusted, DON'T TURN IT, NOT EVEN FOR THE 1/16 OF AN INCH!!!

[@fernandoalonsopachecoriver3028]

A question, please: If nothing was hammered and the mixture screw did not move, why else does the sensor plate go down?

[@mercedeske]

Check your fuel accumulator!

[@fernandoalonsopachecoriver3028]

@@mercedeske thanks

[@aldorossi6673]

Hello I tried to adjust the air flow pad on my 560sl 1988, as from your advice using 1,3 mm variation, but car doesn’t start and has black exhausts till I fix to 3 mm, it it correct? Thanks for your help, but this issue makes me crazy. Aldo

[@mercedeske]

The initial gap must be 1.9mm. This doesn't mean that then you will have the best mixture. These are the precondition for a car to start. The fine tuning is done with a multimeter and correct specifications for the EHA.

[@aldorossi6673]

@@mercedeske thanks for your help and support and many compliments for your videos

[@mercedeske]

Thanks a lot. Happy Mercedesing 😃

[@abyor73]

I have M102.982 engine, but the idle sometime high (1100rpm) sometime normal (750rpm). Could it be caused by stucked plunger on FD ? I have checked no vacuum leak on the system. The car has been engine off almost 2 years. Could you help me for the problem. Thank you sir.

[@mercedeske]

Hi. If the sensor plate slides easy, then there is no need to mess up with the distributor. I would check the Idle control valve. It would be good idea to clean it.

[@bikeman123]

Doesn't the mixture screw adjust the sensor plate height?

[@mercedeske]

Yes, it does but those are some fine adjustments. This is for those that have problems with the plate when it's crooked because then you can have vacuum leaks.

[@user-sm9zy4zt1l]

لطفا زیرنویس پارسی

[@mercedeske]

People. Who ever wants to speak with me has to learn either English, German, Portuguese, Spanish or Serbian. I don't speak other languages!!!

[@ludimare2929]

Trebo si na srpskom pricat

[@mercedeske]

Izlazi uskoro.