Mercedes ML350 - Replacing Front Brake Pads and Rotors (ML 2012 - 2015) and (GLE 2016 - 2018) W166

A complete tutorial on how to change the front brake pads and rotors on a ML350 (W166).
I will walk through anything that could possibly go wrong and how to easily work through it.

[@NeoAndersonReloaded]

Just did mine on 12'. Pepboys wanted $350 labor. I said fuk it, ill do it. First time working on a benz. It felt good to challenge yourself and succeed. My wife was really happy. Took 2hrs well worth it.

[@pandabear8142]

Thanks for the great video.👍

[@IvanSchlachter]

Thanks, I hope it helped out!

[@maxfly11]

great video Ivan , would you know where the coolent sensor is on a ml 250 . 2013 i cant find it for love nor mon ey ,all videos and pictures dont show the same engine as mine . ian

[@IvanSchlachter]

Hi Ian, I don't have that engine in front of me but I am looking at diagrams. Fo your engine, it looks like the coolant temperature sensor is located on the rear of the left cylinder head. Let me know if you have any luck.

[@ian1663]

Hi found it as at front near the thermostat, after changing that and the fan !!! It was the AC sensor and a re gas all done thank god .

[@willbatshoun4484]

Do you have a video for rear rotors and brake pads replacement? thanks.

[@Mrualreadyknow83]

Thank you

[@youtuberAstar]

All good. Only issue..... FAR TOO MUCH copper / anti seize used. When brakes get hot, it will turn to liquid and be all over the brake rotor impairing the braking ability !

[@AndyNav1]

Hi and thanks for the video. Just wondering if you're supposed to replace the bolts as they are torqued. Thanks

[@IvanSchlachter]

Hi - they recommend you replace the bolts. Some people don’t if they look recent but yes, it is recommended you do.

[@TheJMSevilla]

My car use a 9mm hex for the slider bolt.

[@NeoAndersonReloaded]

Rear?

[@gtsllc5975]

Do you keep parking brake engaged for the front or do you put in brake service mode like the rear?

[@IvanSchlachter]

when replacing the front brakes, you don't have to disengage the parking brake. However, when replacing the rear brakes, you must move the parking brake into the fitting position. You can do so through the menu. Hope this helps

[@Johnnybegood2unow]

How long do the rotors last? I had them changed at the dealer 22000 miles ago along with the brakes and they recommend I change them all out again?

[@IvanSchlachter]

Hi- personally I replace the rotors each time I replace my pads. This is recommended, however, some people skip if they look decent. For me, it’s too important not to change both the pads and rotors together.

[@NeoAndersonReloaded]

Depends on your driving

[@MrDusa10]

Interesting... I thought that you needed a scan tool to "retract the piston actuators." prior to changing the pads. I just paid the MB dealer $1440 for front rotors and pads and $580 for rear pads... They wanted $1500 to swap out rotors/pads in back. Anyway, I always do my own brakes, (BMW & Acura) but this time around I took the ML350 to the dealer in San Fran, long story but it is what it is. Back to original question, is a scan tool required to do this job? If not, I'll start doing my brakes on the ML350 too. Additionally, if you don't use a scan tool does it set an idiot light on the instrument cluster. Thanks

[@jakesmith2341]

Just did it today, and nope. For fronts, all you need is the retractor tool that he used, for the rear, find the steering wheel button combo for service mode. Select the option for “release electronic parking brake” aaaand done. Can’t post links on YY but there’s a great tutorial on here if you search. Good luck! Same here, I hate doing brakes, but after I saw the estimate of 1200, I decided to just do it myself. Spent 440 on rotors and pads all around

[@MrDusa10]

@@jakesmith2341 Thanks, I sorta figured that, after watching a couple of other videos too. It seems like you need it for the back, but as you say, you can do it via the instrument cluster too... So really no need for a scan tool. The dealer wanted $380 to replace serpentine belt.... I said NO! Did it for $21 bucks (belt) and maybe 5 minutes. Actually, I got the "Serpentine belt Kit" for $91, that comes with the belt, tensioner, and the two idler pullies. Not bad at all.

[@Mr.Brightside8810]

My question is where do you find an 11mm hex bit socket?

[@IvanSchlachter]

Harbor Freight has them

[@bossman2819]

What size drill bit did you use to remove the t30 screw. Mine are stuck solid

[@IvanSchlachter]

Honestly I don’t remember what size it was but if you look at the new screw and make sure the but a little smaller then that, it will unravel when you go through.

[@bossman2819]

@@IvanSchlachter and the same can be done on the back rotors too?

[@IvanSchlachter]

@@bossman2819 yes, in fact I didn’t have to drill either of the screws on the back rotors. They came right out and I reused them. I hit them with penetrating oil and pushed down hard as I gently turned counterclockwise

[@bossman2819]

@IvanSchlachter I tried that on Sunday and they didn't move at all

[@peterog6244]

What are the tools you used in changing the rotors and brake pad?

[@joe79400]

Do you reuse the wear sensor?

[@IvanSchlachter]

Hi- Technically if you replaced the pads before the sensor was triggered, it would most likely work but it’s an easy swap and the sensors are about $3 online - so I would highly recommend replacing the sensor as well.

[@NeoAndersonReloaded]

Why not its $5

[@chadpfau7799]

In short. DO NOT replace the sensor if it hasn't worn to the point of alert. Reuse it until the new pads get to that point "if you let them go that long" then replace. Don't replace it. I'm a fan of not even spending a dollar if I don't have to. Btw, the antiseize all over the rotor contact is not necessary either.