Metal 3D Printed Gas Engine

[@CamdenBowen]

Happy new year everyone!

[@BartoszGierwatowski]

thanks

[@kingmidasgaming7909]

Have a great new year!

[@Gabe-q5l]

I have made a 3d printed running engine but it only ran for a minute then it melted and I made a new one

[@yellowflag4803]

happy newyear

[@aurotha]

Happy new year 🎆🎇

[@dirkjanvanvliet]

I really love the fact that this project uses some of the most high-tech production methods and some of the most low-tech engineering (like some chicken wire etc.) to produce something that is already existing for over a hundred years. Not bashing on it though because I genuinely love it and have great respect for your commitment to it

[@octopus9001]

@enriqueamaya3883shut up

[@mantvydas8810]

It's actually good that you didn't resize the whole with a dremel. The chances of it remaining round are very low and those threads you made are possibly the best you could have made because of the amount of material remaining. Do a quick test of a tight hole and a more sloppy hole and then add threads. The sloppy one will feel sleepy with a bolt in it and the tight one will feel tighter. Now measure the amount of strength you need to strip the threads and I bet you 1 kiss that the sloppy hole will strip out much quicker and than the tight one. Yes I did write Whole instead of hole, no I won't fix it and yes I will blame autocorrect.

[@giovannicesaramorim9adigan961]

grinding it for 30 seconds would be best, just to remove a little bit of material to easen up the manual resizing

[@tktspeed1433]

@@giovannicesaramorim9adigan961 using a broacher or a reamer would be the optimal thing to do.

[@Google_Corporation]

The reamer tool is the best choice! Someone already mentioned it. It's specifically designed for slightly widening holes to specific sizes. While they should be done on a mill for the best results, I've used them on drills just fine. They have a long stalk, which means that they naturally flex slightly to center themselves in the pre-existing hole.

[@SpencerHHO]

Given the available tools, using the tap gently as a drill probably gave the best results possible. It would have been very easy to knacker the whole with a dremmel.

[@10peicedarkmeatwitbiscuit51]

Lol "sloppy hole"

[@grantprice613]

For making prints watertight, I print with ABS and then vapor smooth them by heating a tub of acetone in an enclosure with the prints. Makes a really smooth surface and doesn't cost much at all.

[@TheLordNemesis]

I got even PLA prints completely watertight by increasing print temperature and reducing print speed and part cooling. With a bit of experimenting it held 2 bar of pressure no problem.

[@henumeramon08]

You can also print PLA with atleast 5-6 walls and a 50% infill @@TheLordNemesis

[@Idiomatick]

@@TheLordNemesisYou can also set the width to like 140% and the walls end up super solid. 5bar should be pretty easy

[@billplummer6946]

I Don't know much about 3d printing but was gonna suggest that or coating the entire thing in an epoxy or something like jb weld to seal it.

[@rodolfoo3015]

That method can deform parts and ruin tolerances

[@Sychius]

I've always been interested with the properties of metal 3d printed parts so this is an awesome vid for me, awesome work dude. Btw, for making solid (water-tight) 3d printed plastic pieces, there is a method but it's a bit time consuming. It's called salt remelting, it requires that you print the part at 100% infill, then submerge it fully in salt, ideally as fine as you can make it, then you put the whole thing into the oven at just beyond the plastic's plasticity point (depends on your specific plastic, I think PLA works at about 200C) for a while, then letting it cool. The idea being that the salt prevents the part from warping or moving, and the slight remelt allows the plastic to bond together better between the layers, creating better water/air sealing, it also improves the shear strength perpendicular to the layer lines.

[@DigitalJedi]

I wonder if an acetone vapor bath would have similar effects. That tends to melt the outer layers to give a smoothing effect, but it should be able to make things more water tight if left for a little longer.

[@HvV8446]

​@@DigitalJedi Yes, but only with ABS/ASA plastic

[@DigitalJedi]

@henkvanvoorst8446 true. I forgot what he was working with and this came to mind as an easy way to get some sealing.

[@nerd_nato564]

​@@DigitalJediWhat plastic is he using?

[@DigitalJedi]

@@nerd_nato564 I assumed ABS or PLA.

[@sanslik5141]

The “let me show you on my computer!” Part got you a new subscriber buddy, hilarious 😂

[@OCDRex11]

This is exactly why I am glad I was a child in the 80's. We tried making these things without 3D printing as there was none. Now, I don't really mean we would try and make our own engines, but we certainly made cannons that used gun powder, crossbows that could almost kill, and used gasoline for just about every thing we shouldn't. Watching this series has made me smile as I know that most of the time you are praying you don't get a face full of metal and plastic, lol. Awesome!

[@tarstarkusz]

Designing and building an engine with such mix/match homemade and even with pro help with materials from PCB way is a very impressive feat. Can't wait till I see what you do next. Great job.

[@scottanderson6309]

Great job shilling!

[@tarstarkusz]

@@scottanderson6309 Who is shilling? I only mentioned PCB way because those are the parts he was unable to make himself, even though he designed the parts they made.

[@jwalster9412]

He's probably going to need a proper fueling system and some compression rings, it seems to run very lean and probably gets a lot of blowby through the rubber ring.

[@PCBWay]

[@Axel_Andersen]

Impressive is not the word I would use ... perplexing or confusing comes to mind ... makes funny content though.

[@SamMassingham]

Really pleased that you managed to get it to run this well! Loved following this series of videos and your other projects. Looking forward to what comes next!

[@Name-ot3xw]

Legitimately impressed that you didn't break the tap

[@Thrive-Off-Grid]

I was hoping you were going to revisit this but casting the parts using the plastic parts to create the molds. I want to build a 1/4 scale V8 this way. There is an LS V8 that is already done for 3D printing

[@Sierra-579]

The saga continues, nice to see it man! I hope you keep it up!

[@jimmyking-gaming8453]

with how well the engine is running I suggest somehow making some kind of crankcase vent so it can breathe rather that will be in the oil cap or somewhere else also maybe valvetrain lubrication would be cool to keep it up!

[@SnackPack913]

This channel is my go to when trying to learn simple ways to machine complex parts in a simple garage shop. I never thought making some of these machines features would be possible at home. That lapping paste is genius.

[@Akhin-zx]

Its pretty cool seeing how the engine evolves every video Excited to see some more engines on the channel

[@evoluckievo]

your like the only person making these 3D printed thermic engines and actually making progress

[@ProjectLMZ]

He is the best one I have found, i am working on my own 3d printed engine, it is on my channel, but I tried a 2 stroke engine.

[@sponge6236]

You should try 3d printing a 2 stroke engine I think it would be interesting how you would design the crank case

[@sigmamale4147]

An engine that only lasts long enough to leave the dealer ? Car companies are going to love it

[@wojciechbieniek4029]

When you're hand-lapping valves, i highly recommend using a bright light to see whether you've achieved full seal. I work in an old-school machine shop, and i've been taught to check valves with a light first, before we even pulled a vacuum through

[@Impossible_Fishy]

Man, this is beautiful. I’ve been looking forward to this engine running for a good amount of time.

[@randomaccount-rw3bm]

Each episode he slowly strays further away from plastic

[@sandrokapellen9064]

2:00 how to torture a mettal worker

[@XWorstYT]

I think the issue you had with the first pump was actually something to do with priming rather than flow rate but the second pump was definitely the right choice.

[@backwoodsjunkie08]

Alot of weed eater engines use the same method of making a crankshaft as you did! They compensate for the wait by welding three plates on each of the crank journal to add extra weight. It's really cool because out of all the weed eater crankshafts I've seen now I kind of get how they're made

[@AlbaRust]

Silly question but have you thought of 3d printing a mould and sand casting a block out of aluminium or other metal?

[@natereinhold6180]

2strokestuffing has done this

[@murmenaattori6]

Yeah, it's way easier and even cheaper to buy a small furnace, crucibles and crucible tongs.

[@CarterStoron]

Just a tip from a fabricator, when tapping holes just use a drill bit, plenty of drill bit to tap charts online.

[@lakewhiting9586]

The engine is probably dying because when combustion happens, it's warming the plastic of the cylinder walls faster than the metal piston. They expand at different rates and you lose compression. On a conventional engine you can tell when this happens because the engine begins to race (choke has caused a rich condition, warming cylinder walls increases fuel vaporization). It's also why you can't properly measure compression on a cold engine. You can probably start it without the propane if you just use a choke, as well. Awesome project and I'm loving watching along, good luck on whatever you do next!

[@Idiomatick]

How much heating do you think they're seeing after 10 second runs really.

[@noahprussia7622]

​@@Idiomatickit's a small explosion, all the energy is converted.

[@Idiomatick]

@@noahprussia7622 if all the energy is converted into heat that would be concerning for sure.

[@andresmonagas7662]

I dont know how this chanell does not have 1 million subs with the quality of this content

[@JC_Young]

I think I’ve said it before, but I think this video demonstrates the need again, I’d love to see you build a lathe using printing for as much as possible.

[@rizalardiansyah4486]

Maybe lathe for wood and other soft material. For metals, I'd say it's a no no. If you're familiar with Uri Tuchman, he once tried making a mini lathe for brass, IIRC, and it didn't go very well unfortunately... :(

[@JC_Young]

@@rizalardiansyah4486 Yeah, Uri's the man. I hated to see how his ultimately failed. I don't think a 100% printed lathe would work/be useful, but I think a lathe using a lot of printed parts, like pulleys and such, is perfectly doable. I think for aluminum and softer, a CNC lathe would be pretty easy to cook up from off the shelf (Amazon) components.

[@ch1caum]

The way you get things to works with a series of hacks, combined with your complete disregard for safety is very relatable to me as a brazilian, great job getting the engine to work 👍.

[@tombuster]

What a good video to start off the new year! That tapping sequence was sooooo hectic! I liked those tapping and welding shots you did throughout the building sequence 'Let me show you on my computer' was such a good gag too! I love the little dipstick you added to the oil fill port's screw, and the screw itself is a good addition I think ;D

[@darenlindley]

I love this video! It's a combination of hilarious and totally intriguing. I love your curiosity and getting your own firsthand knowledge by testing all of these elements. This was really fun

[@CamdenBowen]

Thank you!

[@theacethree7943]

You are legitimately the most underrated KZbinr on this platform

[@yessbox]

I think u cant be a KZbinr on any other platform

[@austinkreller4336]

The reason it kept stalling is because the o ring was getting warm from all the blow by, throw a set of piston rings on it and make the bottom end case stronger, design it like a motorcycle case where it's split in the middle and not half way, that will let you have a stronger bottom end and less oil leaks!

[@ProjectLMZ]

I’m working on my own 3d printed engine, so that might be useful for my engine! Thank you!

[@badassgaaming3449]

There is so much you can do to make this even more amazing. Adding in a some timing featurs. Maybe an actual cooling system. Throttle cable. Fuel pump. This could become a full running working engine that you made at home and that would be an incredible feat of engineering. You got a follow from me for this one. Awesome work man. Can't wait to see what other cool things you do

[@CamdenBowen]

Thanks a bunch!

[@rag3parsley_420]

I am so glad to see you have taken what you've learned from the past and turned it into such a success, its really cool to see the engine you built run for so long

[@Potato37184]

Happy new year🎉

[@TurboSunShine]

Happy new year Camden! So cool to finally see it run!

[@CamdenBowen]

Happy new year!

[@gabrieltsimbler6297]

Yeah, it honestly literally sounds like its getting too little fuel. I have a briggs and stratron engine that I have worked on, and it keeps on stallling out like your engine does. And it turned out to just be a throttle problem by not letting in enough fuel. Ps, awsome video!!!!😃 Also, I know this might not be a very good idea but what if you add a fuel pump on the fuel line to help with it's low amount of fuel withdraw...

[@RaylaRayV]

OHMYGOD i havent been on the edge of my seat fearing for a youtubers life ever, it's so scuffed and i love it so much!

[@LordOfPenguinss]

i think that 1 cylinder boi wants an turbo

[@ProjectLMZ]

One thing I think I should’ve suggested a little while ago, would’ve been going with a flathead engine. If you went with a flathead engine, you could’ve just used a chunk of steel pipe for the cylinder sleeve and then welded a piece of flat bar with a whole drilled out for the cylinder sleeve, and two for the valves on top of it. Then 3-D printed head would work for probably a minute or two. Also, that would give you the ability to put an acrylic head on there and see it working with a clear head. I think that’s what I’m going to do with my engine, but as of right now I’m in Florida, so I can’t. Really love your channel and your videos! Keep up the great work!

[@tarstarkusz]

Great job! Very impressive.

[@microwaveman456]

bro you have no idea how much better my day gets when you upload

[@GryphonSmith-mk6dv]

Dude, you don't know how excited I am to see this thing run. Been checking the channel every other day for the video. Also, the rubber compression ring will probably never fail you. Seen a video by garage54 where they used a rubber compression ring on a real lada engine and it was impossible to melt.

[@CamdenBowen]

That same video gave me reassurance about my choice to use the O ring aha

[@swagatrout3075]

Finally, thank goodness! You've been creating these 3D print engine videos for quite some time, and now it has successfully run.

[@tommy3816]

Anyone else think he made some strange decisions or am I tripping 😭

[@Google_Corporation]

Him directly welding onto bearings hurts my soul lmao. Ive had so many problems welding metal anywhere near a bearing, they end up deformed or destaking after just a little usage.

[@guerrillaradio9953]

Brass pipe cylinder liner....atta boy! Worked! Proud of all you've learned! Look at you go!

[@dipstiksubaru3246]

See, your mane is getting longer and it's looking better. Keep it growing, it will be worth it in the end trust me mine has been long for 15yrs and I won't go back. It's nice to see people still experimenting and building things rather than sitting on Instagram.

[@nicksmith3431]

u have inspired me. I am currently designing a compressed engine with self actuating VVT. basically copying you but I need to start somewhere. awesome vid dude.

[@vigilantmug5028]

Man challenging Integza with his 3d printing work

[@robloxstuff4]

it might be something with the spark that is not burning the fuel and making it not run or it is not getting enough air possibly

[@DH-xw6jp]

So, this build has taught us that if you are ever feeling slightly unbalanced, all you have to do is slap a pair of balls on your shaft to true things right up. Not the lesson I was expecting from a plastic engine, but an important one none the less.

[@beastkiller6142]

spray the cylinder casing with flex seal and that should take care of your leaking issue

[@kurero1431]

as dangerous as it is, I love the combination of "there's a bunch of leaks" and "the friction will hold it in place" foreshadowing the flywheel falling off, and in a comedic way no less, instead of flying out it just fell straight down

[@JazzyJustin]

Bro is slowly getting closer to running a gocart off of his 3D printed engine and I am all for it

[@imanijones10]

Severely underrated channel you have here. Also happy new year!!!!

[@memetdemirel3111]

13:53 i bet that wheel is still behind the cooler

[@PhilTgaming11]

Finally! I was waiting for the 3d printed metal engine! Ive been watching this project since the original, and im not disappointed. Cant wait for the other ones 👀

[@baremetaltechtv]

You gotta keep going until you can get it running well enough to power a home made 3d printed generator and use the electricty to do something cool. Dont give up it seems like you are so close to actually getting something usable.

[@michaelb.42112]

This is genius and fun to watch. I wish I had paid more attention in auto shop when we rebuilt lawn mower engines.

[@aaronfidelisrecine]

Maybe I'm missing something from another video, but doesn't the fuel tank need to be higher than the carb so it flows to the carb? Or at least run a pump?

[@BrodyOSullivan]

Your right, it creates natural suction but probably can’t pull enough in. Raising the tank and/or putting a fuel pump on helps tremendously.

[@Drosba]

To be honest, this is just a regular engine, that just as every other modern engine has had the biggest possible number of parts replaced with plastic.

[@TheMilkiestCereal]

Your channel is really underrated I am very proud of your build

[@CamdenBowen]

Thanks!

[@aserta]

Before running a tap through a tite hole, use a reamer. It's in general a good idea to have a reamer for the size the tap requires anyways, so do that for future stuff. Drilling a hole for a tap isn't enough.

[@robinyilmaz1155]

watertight cooling jacket ideas: - seal it by dunking it in paint or something - print with 4 walls and very high temperature and >105% flow, and fairly large layer height to minimize the potential failure points, and print slow. And make the geometry simple. No overhangs, no fancy features, just a cylinder.

[@no-expert]

The fact alone that it’s running even for a short time is impressive! Love this project :)

[@YourLocalRailfan]

THE KING IS BACK!

[@BaileyEvans]

Excellent work! Time for more cylinders!

[@darkwater_ebonrose]

holy shit, dude... i was already laughing pretty good when you 'sent off the package', but i wheezed and crylaughed so hard when you showed us what you were talking about with the piston on your computer. so amazing. thank you lol

[@staciesimmons4342]

I've been waiting for this video for like the last f******month and a half I have checked every day

[@christanvandijk5106]

Absolutly amazing, cant wait to see one powering something like a bicycle or gokart

[@Markymark111]

Been here since the first 3d printed engine glad to see this outcome I can’t wait to see the next video!!

[@kingyachan]

It's remarkable how you've straddled the line of doing things correctly and sketchy

[@justingort1]

You could use a resin to seal the prints. I have done it before. I did it in many ways. You could seal the outside by just coating it. But I have also had success with using a non closing infill and a little nub that you can later drill a hole in. Then you have access to the inside and you can fill the printed part with resin. If you put the part together with all the stresses applies and the fill it the resin will seal the same holes as where the water would leave. This would also be done by pressurizing the fill port to push the resin through the cracks. Polyurethane would be a good option as it has some flex to it

[@henrythegoat69]

this issue is probably that it is a 4-stroke on low rpm resulting in not enough speed to keep the cylinder firing without adding another cylinder

[@yukonxl5723]

that engine shakes soo much more now flinging that metal piston around. great vid dude! love it

[@MrFreakenfast]

You should change the name from 3d printing a gas engine to building a gas engine from whatever i can find laying around my workshop! I love this series and im just kidding about the name. Cheap prototyping is definitely the only way to go and I hope by the end of it seeing a full metal 3d printed engine that can run for hours would be so awesome!

[@YellowDoh]

My favorite KZbin series!!

[@chemicalcorrosion]

My God man, props for NOT GIVING UP!!! I love it!!

[@aprendeingles2day]

⭐I've just discovered this channel: It's great⭐

[@Bennet07]

Great video keep up the work pal! I want to see that engine running for atleast 30 seconds

[@NapiLP]

a super easy way to get your 3d printed parts watertight is by spraying a layer of plastidip on all the surfaces you want to be watertight. the plastidip fills all the little holes in the print while being so thin that you practically dont need to worry about the extra thickness and the rough surface finish of the 3d printed plastic is perfect for the plastidip to adhere to. ive done this many times in the past and never had any leaks.

[@theworkshopwhisperer.5902]

This is one of my favourite 3D printing projects. It's really interesting seeing which components can survive being plastic and which ones need to be upgraded to metal.

[@kwakeham]

I've made airtight vaccum sensors on a cheap fdm 3d printer.... ABS + acetone vapour melts it together. Also solid infill. Dimensionally you'll loose tolerance by a lot because you need it to start looking really smooth. Also it can take days to weeks for the acetone to fully come out of the part. Melting it shows bubbling even after days I found.

[@chrislee3508]

love your video, just be careful! that flywheel can easily hurt you, I have seen someone lost a leg with his flywheel project just be careful man and Happy new year

[@danebrecount5557]

I'm happy I keep tuning into this, seeing that engine kick on was so satisfying.

[@SteelyEyedH]

Dip your 3d print in resin, great waterproofing. Takes a bit of to and fro to get the tolerance, but works

[@underpaidadventures]

I recently replaced my vespa's cylinder and honestly, i have so much respect for what youre doing

[@nefarious_blue]

I like the way you do your projects, try, fail, investigate and improve. That kind of thinking is what we need to progress and make the future 😄

[@jacquesburger4103]

A mini tabletop lathe will be one of the best investments you'll make! I use mine all the time.

[@calebplaysgamesofficial]

Id like to suggest something more cylinders= smoother which in turn means easier to run cause well... now theres a smoother power curve during each individual revolution, which means 2 cylinders are pushing it every half rpm. it would cost double what it did to do so far, but i think it definitely is a step int he correct direction.

[@Kozzado]

this is a great start to 2024 for me i am impressed at your commitment and skills, keep up the good work and happy new year

[@DiabloProcentoPersonal.]

Still very nice project,is there anywhere where we can download the stls ?

[@kingwarking1295]

Dude you are so close to making that thing actually idle, ive been watching this since day one and im 100% confident youll get her running good one day. Keep at it youre doing an awesome job!

[@Logfile_beta1]

Just curious if you've considered using nitromethane as a fuel source

[@aaronrieder4778]

4:35 bro sacrificed his laptop screen for a yt video for us & to merely prove a point/show us he was indeed not 🧢ing. We gotta respect the dedication, determination snd how devoted he was.

[@BROSKIES1209]

You should melt the plastic inside the cylinder to make it watertight

[@sovannv]

They have taper taps and tap magic to make it easier. Also the tap handles have countersink in the back so you can hold it straight with a center. Most common tool a home maker would have is a drill press and vise to do it that way