Metal Casting at Home Part 1 Backyard Foundry

[@gdglock]

I simply can not understand how you could receive a negative comment, or dislike. Your skills, information, and video are brilliant. Thank you.

[@LukeChavers]

Watching people who have mastered a craft is amazing. Dude, you're awesome.

[@mikelmoral-salar5452]

Dear friend, I´m a mechanical engineer very experienced in machining and assembly processes but completely ignorant about die casting. I send you my deepest gratitude for your awesome videos. I can understand now the process and apply them to my job. A million of thanks for sharing your terrific experience!!! Greetings from Germany!

[@mrpoopybutthole6314]

I'm German to most people at school call me a nazi. Go figure.

[@mrpoopybutthole6314]

+Toxic Enterprise I live in Australia

[@marzocchi92]

miguel tienes nombre muy español para ser de alemania

[@shaneme11]

still one of the best things ive ever found on the internet. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

[@jjjkjk9006]

Hello. Thank god we have your channel sir!

[@sohrkim]

I found this play list. Binge-watching. Appreciate all of your work, Sir!

[@lancelot1953]

Thank you so much for all the research/experimenting, time, and effort you have put into producing these videos for the benefit of the YT community and for all the shade-tree engineers out there (including me). You have given me great instructions to make parts that I could not get otherwise (my antique car restoration). Thank you again, Ciao, L

[@youngcameracompany]

Thank you for taking the time to make this series of videos. We have just started casting at my house. There is much I have learned from your videos. Thanks again. Barry Young Tacoma, WA, USA

[@dedeye1]

You should add to your credits Narrated by: (leave this space blank) Seriously very informational. I fancy myself a backyard metal caster but until watching your series have avoided castings involving cores and odd profiles. You have given me inspiration to take it to the next level. Thank you.

[@mdivinc]

Very tight and precise mold boxes. You did a very nice job building them. I'm happy I came across this video. 5stars!

[@benpress8884]

You are amazing; I was supposed to go to a bbq today but instead I watched all your videos. Much more informative and entertaining!

[@Arachnalicious]

I've recently become interested in metal casting, for artisan purposes. I'm glad to see it is possible at home! Thanks for these detailed videos!

[@toolzshed]

Wow Mr! I wish I had friends that did metal casting and then model engine fabrication!!! Everyone is so darn negative over here! You are a do-er!!! That is awesome! I'm trying to cast a single piece Aluminum motorcycle engine frame. Just designing the core and mockup frame. Thanks for the inspiration, cheers!

[@Neurofluid]

Excellent videos (I've watched 2 so far). I've been dabbling with aluminum casting for a while now and your videos are clear and concise, and I love that you don't put in some cheesy background music like most others! Thanks for the hard work and taking the time to make these videos; I look forward to watching the rest!

[@2soonnow]

It seems that one could spend more time making the wooden patterns than the actual casting process. Excellent work.

[@Search4TruthReality]

Seeing this was very cool. The basics of this process was taught to me in metal shop in Jr. High school...which was before we had personal computers and many aspired to work at the local Ford plant.

[@myfordboy]

@jonneyj Its not expensive but you would need a refactory that would withstand the higher temperature that brass needs.

[@MrPipvampire]

Thanks for the demonstrations. You are a wealth of information. This is really quality stuff that you're showing here. Thank you again...

[@xcode36]

I'm student of Engineering.. and I know this kind of metal casting but we've used different type of sand as I think (brown color) the type you've used is better as it's stronger anyway, thank you for presenting useful videos for us instead of ridiculous videos which are everywhere in youtube.

[@MaturePatriot]

You appear to have the best casting sand on KZbin. - The core was beautiful.

[@myfordboy]

When I shot this video I had no idea how popular casting was or how many people were interested so I wasn't expecting to do any more. There are 26 videos now, covering pattern making, sand making and core making.

[@crwhy]

I can see you have so much pride in your work

[@myfordboy]

To locate the Cope and Drag I use some little plastic "modesty blocks" as sold for furniture making. I fit a 3/16" steel pin and this what I am knocking out. By knocking them out first its easier to seperate the boxes.

[@myfordboy]

@whatthemessman Core is supported at the ends so does not touch the bottom. Can be removed by digging out with screwdriver or will disolve in water.

[@henrydando]

very good and informative video thank you. i like how your moudle features a tatical snack holder

[@myfordboy]

@pkrska Its a moulding sand from a foundry supplier. Its dark brown and has gone darker with use.

[@myfordboy]

@CliffordDickinson I usualy only add a vent for the cores, without this gasses will push the metal away from the core. It is nornal practice to add vents to the mould but I haven't found it necessary to do this. The sand lets gasses escape. I do however always add a riser ,except for very small items and position it at the highest point if the shape allows for this.

[@myfordboy]

@bx2200 I have only ever cast aluminium as this is all I need for my hobby. Cast iron would be bettter for an engine cylinder if the piston ran directly in it. I use an iron liner in my engines and all shafts have bronze bushes. A much higher temperature is needed to melt iron .

[@myfordboy]

Thats a good question. The core size was not that critical as the bore has been machined and the other parts only allow for clearance of the crank. I suppose in theory the core should be 2% smaller but after casting, the metal is tight against the core so it seems no shrinkage has taken place.

[@barumman]

First class, you make it look easy, a real craftsman,

[@myfordboy]

An investment casting is used by jewelery makers. This involves making a wax model of the item and coating it with a slurry and then melting out the wax to form the mould. An oil boded sand like Petrobond would also give good results.

[@Ben83597]

Love to see people create with their hands!

[@gerardolizama3156]

I need to know what kind of sand is what you use to make molds ... and where I can get

[@ramonbello2885]

Its simply sand mixed with engine oil or sugar molasses

[@stuartashers]

Look up green sand the finer the sand the better the detail, sand bentonite clay water not much water just mist it mix till you can snap it. Oil bonded has a different clay.

[@aluminumcastingsandcasting7761]

Really nice sand casting process video, thank you for your sharing.

[@martincadarajian]

Teacher thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and be as didactic. for a long time and looked for this information. excuse my English. Greetings from Argentina

[@souravchowdhury8493]

sir.. I'm a mechanical engineering student. ... and your videos are very much usefull to me... thank you...

[@myfordboy]

Its just aersol spray paint. I use MDF (medium density fibreboard) mostly for the patterns. Is this available in the US?

[@myfordboy]

@thehumblepepper Thicker construction or adding webs would increace the strength but it hard to advice without knowing the shape you have in mind.

[@myfordboy]

The thicker ones are better but the ones I am using at the moment are very thin. It will work fine just won't last so long.You would get maybe 8 melts from it.

[@jimintaos]

see a trip to the salvage yard in my future today-perhaps I can find an old fire extinguisher or air cylinder that will work better for more pours. If not there is still this one that I only paid a few dollars for. I dropped by your site on the way to asking you my question. It looks great and I am looking forward to spending some time there.

[@myfordboy]

@gohuskies583 The sleeves are made from meehenite cast iron. I have never found any cored material so I have to bore out a solid bar. The are held in place with Loctite high strenghth adhesive.

[@myfordboy]

Foot powder seems an expensive choice. Can you not get talc? Baby powder is what I use sometimes. Powdered chalk may work. Not sure about foot powder!

[@RonRonnard]

You start directly with a masterpiece. A beginner should start with simpler parts, I think, so that he does not experience too many problems.

[@myfordboy]

You need a good furnace to reach that temperature. The alloy I am using melts at about 740 deg Celcius. Swords are usually forged from steel not cast.

[@myfordboy]

Video 22 and 15 in this series show some patterns being made.

[@howtorepairpendulumclocks]

Vehicles passing sound like waves on a beach. Nice :=)

[@myfordboy]

For aluminium I make the pattern 2% larger.At the worst case if it were critical you would need to do a test cast and adjust the pattern size if necessary.

[@myfordboy]

The runner and feeder give extra head to the metal and provides a supply of metal to replace any shrinkage. Its more important in casting alloy than other metals. The top of the feeder has a distinctive depression it it were the metal shrink as it cools.

[@myfordboy]

I ram the sand with my fist and then use the rammer. Could it be your pattern does not have any or enough draft or your sand does not have enough green strength? If you have a split pattern you should be left with half the pattern in drag and half in the cope. Then remove the pattern.

[@AmericanMaking]

Love the Videos. Thanks for sharing them.

[@myfordboy]

It's sand but its held together with a binder, either baked or gased with C02. Video 33 in this series shows the method I now use.

[@myfordboy]

Not realy. How would you handle the weight, melt the metal and make a mould that big?

[@mrtechnophile3483]

Amazing work, really appreciate your videos!

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

Decided to watch them from the start :)

[@myfordboy]

Should keep you busy for a while!

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

@@myfordboy Yes and that's just part 1 ! I had to rewind a few times while watching to keep it straight in my mind.

[@myfordboy]

Too wet. What's wrong with using the correct greensand?

[@myfordboy]

I'm in the Uk so cant be specific but if you read through the comments below from others there are suggestions from guys in the US.

[@myfordboy]

The core is suspended on "core prints" which are part of the pattern. I think all your other questions will be answered if you watch part 2 to 10 Metal Casting at Home.

[@gerardolizama3156]

I am from Ecuador and I am using a translator to communicate with you

[@myfordboy]

The blue coating is just paint. I havn't found it necessary to vent the mould but is essential to vent the cores.

[@myfordboy]

The sand is a special foundry sand (Known as greensand although its not green!) Water is added to it until it will hold its shape when squeezed in your hand. If its too wet the moisture will turn to steam when the metal is poured. It can be used again after it has been through a sieve. There are details of making your own sand on the Web although I have never tried any.

[@bufferbrown]

Thanks One other thing, when I ram the cope and lift it off it seems to split the sand half way up the cope even though the drag is well talced up. I think its because I am filling the cope half way giving it a good bash to get it round the pattern then putting the other half in and this seems to leave a natural break in the sand. Do you fill the cope to the top before giving it a good bash? I see you using your fist a bit but the rest is edited out. Thanks Rich

[@myfordboy]

@Ziknazoo 6010 contains magnesium which can combust so is not realy suitable. Best to find some other alloy that has been cast before.

[@myfordboy]

@ed563 My sand is not home made but the usual mix is up to 10% bentonite.

[@myfordboy]

@metalkidjohn The type of refactory I used limits its use to aluminium melting. A commercial refactory would allow higher temperatures.

[@myfordboy]

You may be able to mould it using the oddside method shown in video 7.

[@myfordboy]

The round parts were turned in a lathe. other parts cut and shaped with woodworking tools.

[@myfordboy]

@myfordboy Mine is a natural sand and was brown but has darkend with use. The home made stuff would be sand colour.

[@myfordboy]

Can't think why you would want to immerse for a few hours! The idea of the core is form internal detail in the casting and be easily removable. Adding PVA adhesive to the mix would make it waterproof but you wouldn't get it out of the casting. Do you mean the core or are you refering to the sand mould?

[@myfordboy]

@DrFrankensteam Normal practice is to place small vents but I never do this and have no problems. It probably depends on the sand you are using.

[@havocdaemon]

You make it look so easy!

[@myfordboy]

I am using a sand from a foundry supplier. It was a gift so i don't know where it came from. If I didn't have this I would try making it using the finest sand I could find and adding 10 % bentonite clay. Here in the UK this is known as Fullers Earth and is used for cosmetics manufacure. I have seen it for sale on ebay.

[@myfordboy]

@110samec It was given to me. I don't know the sourse but Jonh Winter, Halifax sell something simular.

[@myfordboy]

The talc is a parting powder. Without it the sand in the second flask would stick to the sand rammed up in the first.

[@edembertogarcia7654]

Hello Master, I congratulate you for all the knowledge you have, and I thank you for sharing it. I have a question that I would like you to answer me. Could you make an aluminum mold to inject a piece of plastic? Thanks for your answer.

[@myfordboy]

A mould for injecting plastic needs to be very smooth. A cast surface would need a lot of post processing.

[@the_garage]

Hoping to start the metal casting. This will help me lot

[@myfordboy]

There will always be a hole where the core is located. The casting would usually designed so the hole is used. If not it would need pluging.

[@braindead4554]

have you ever thought about making a quick video as to how you made your cores, like what kind of binder you use in your sand, what the core boxes look like and anything else that may be useful to a newbe like myself.

[@myfordboy]

Its all scrap alloy. Car engine parts, garden furnature, light fittings, whatever I can get for free. I only use metal that has been cast before though, no drinks cans or extrusions.

[@gohuskies583]

How do you make an iron sleeve to line the cylinder in your engines? Or is this something that is more practical to buy. It would be interesting to see how you press it in or form it. Thanks

[@myfordboy]

@BITTYBOY121 Sand is realy a dark brown colour. unknown origion but came from a foundry supplier.

[@jtheaslip]

Hey I was wondering how you made the wood patterns. I want to make some engine blocks for some steam engines that I have made from solid stock.

[@chrishunter2691]

I also am stuck not knowing how to get my item into two halves. We are replicating an eagle from the 1940's. Any help with the process of making the two blue halves as in this video would be so appreciated. Amazing Work!!!!!

[@nagbelad]

very good instructional videos. Inspires one to work on these projects. I have a question. Are these sand cores waterproof? If not how can they be made waterproof so that they can be immersed in water for a few hours? Any tip is helpful. Thanks.

[@jimintaos]

I was wondering about the stainless steel crucible you use. Brilliant idea-so brilliant I ordered a stainless steel canister of my own. It arrived this morning and is really thin metal. I was wondering how thick the one you are using is.

[@MIsterremix99]

Thanks for the video it's been really helpful and I'll be glad to check out the rest of the videos on casting that you've created. However I'd just like to know what type of sand you use in this video and where I might be able to obtain it.

[@myfordboy]

I am in the UK so I don't know what you have available in the US.

[@myfordboy]

The sand is a foundry product used as supplied. I only had a limited supply of this and am now using sand from artisanfoundry.co.uk. you can see this in the later videos ( number 28 onwards)

[@myfordboy]

You still get shrinkage as the metal cools however large your risers are. The risers feed metal into the mould as you state but the finished casting is always smaller than the pattern. Around 2% for aluminium.

[@myfordboy]

@110samec Its a water bonded greensand

[@myfordboy]

They could be used but the ali used in the cans will be different than that of a cast item, with different properties so is not ideal for casting. There is little metal in a tin compared to the surface area. There will be more dross than metal. I recommend finding some car parts to use.

[@agustinruiz7129]

Excellent video from one foundry man to another which primer would you recommend for cast aluminum that would be exposed to constant humidity environment. Thank you!

[@myfordboy]

I have not used any of my castings outdoors but use an etch primer or paint direct on the casting.

[@myfordboy]

You cannot avoid the shrikage but you just make the pattern larger than the finished item needs to be.

[@SuperAkk123]

This is awesome, but how do you make or mix the black sand

[@RA59]

So does this mean that the core extends through what will be the holes in the casting and it is supported that way?

[@GelderdBorn]

Would it be possible to cast pistons using this tecnique? I have a new piston to take a mould from, They are very expensive to buy as they are for 1970's trials bike (montesa). Would there be much additional machinig afer the mould etc, or in your opinion could they be finished by hand? Cheers for a great vid!

[@myfordboy]

@norvman Foundry supplier, or make your own by adding bentonite clay to playsand.

[@myfordboy]

I think talk is the best release agent. Easily available as baby powder.

[@petrovish7]

just one question what kind of sand did you use inthis casting?plz very very very nice video

[@myfordboy]

@kidbuu511 I'm in the Uk, don't know whats available in the US

[@chrishunter2691]

I also am stuck not knowing how to get our item into two halves. We are replicating an eagle from the 1940's. Any instruction for making the two halves as in this video would be so appreciated. Amazing Work!!!!! Chris

[@myfordboy]

If it's a wood pattern glue the halves together with a sheet of newspaper between before shaping. Then split the haves apart.

[@bernardstoddart2532]

i really appreciate this knowledge what sand can i use if i don't have green sand and maybe want to make 20 pieces

[@megaman11011]

It's been a couple months, but I'm gonig to answer anyway: green sand is incredibly eassy to make, this guy has a video on it actually, and green sand or a simillar thing is required for casting in this method. as for wanting to make a lto of things, well you're either going to need a lto of flasks to make the molds, or you're going have to remake the mold every time with sand casting.

[@myfordboy]

Entropic Radar Or you can use a snap flask kzbin.info/www/bejne/roe0qn9-hpitjck

[@megaman11011]

snap flasks, i always forget about them