Metal Casting at Home Part 2 Backyard Foundry

[@chetvaldes]

Thanks for not poluting the visual content with music or banal banter- it's so easy to watch and learn- from a master!

[@pby1000]

Chet Valdes Great comment! Silence is golden when watching a master at work.

[@1MatchesMalone1]

Thats awesome, i like how you were honest enough to show the first attempt.

[@myfordboy]

Experience is a good guide. One way I have used in the past is to fill a bucket to the brim with water and place the pattern inside. The water displaced gives the volume of metal required, less any core that may be used. You need to add extra for the gating.

[@danielvandertorre5462]

mr myfordboy thank you for all the video's you have made you see I learn with my eyes you have been a blessing to me I see others that like to here them self's talk endlessly you make the video's not about you but about the topic at hand and I thank you for it sir.

[@bluclaudino]

Hello i'm an italian boy.You have the most beautiful and organizate home made foundry i've ever seen.

[@OleTC]

I love how You make it look easy. And I know it takes 20 or maybe 30 years of work to achieve that ease. Very well done, I'm just fascinated. Thank You.

[@stevesloan6775]

Your videos are massively inspirational to me. It’s very good I can view your first video. Love your work!!! 🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀😎🤓

[@AndyDaviesByTheSea]

Hi there, well done on a good video and well done for showing the errors as well, I was always told ’The guy that never made a mistake never made anything.’ Man I’ve made some mistakes. It’s great to see someone making something special in the back yard I wonder what viewers will make of it in 100 years time when most folk will have forgotten how to make anything at home. Kind Regards ... Andy.

[@cadogan99]

I love it, great to see what I have tried many times using back yard basics' techniques done by someone who knows what they are doing. Good, no-nonsense video technique too. Well done.

[@tylerkrug7719]

I enjoyed seeing the outtakes. Great casting. You are very good at what your doing!

[@myfordboy]

Experience is the beast guide. You can submerse the pattern in a full bucket of water and measure how much overflows. This will give the volume needed. You need to add extra for feeder and riser,

[@dozer1642]

Very nice work. I am gonna try a simple cast in the upcoming months. You give me hope that I could do it right.

[@witedragonscave]

Great video series! Thanx! Reminds me of high school meatal working class. I always enjoyed those classes.

[@gohuskies583]

Thanks for bearing your soul and showing us the outake. Im sure that was a bummer to find that out after all that hard work! But even Thomas Edison had failures! We've all done that. Really nice work, hats off to you!

[@hhart6266]

This was a terrific series - I've only just become interested in casting and this has piqued my curiosity even more!

[@pulppeeler]

ok thanks. its nice you guys put these vids up. really lessons the learning curve for us new guys.we sure appreciate it!

[@Liquid_Bread_Fabrewcation]

Thank you for posting the video. Also than you for showing the out takes. Im planning on doing a foundry and seen your videos which helps with all my questions

[@TheCuriousSeb]

I loved watching these videos. I had no idea someone could cast their own metal forms.

[@tutuslinefx5056]

Hello myfordboy ... Actually all videos are a Lord tutorials tutorial, I learned a lot from you, Thank you for sharing their knowledge, God Bless, "Congratulations". move on.

[@stuartbassett4044]

loving the vids made small foundy and have reclaimed 65 oz of aluminium from pop cans keep it up its inspiring

[@myfordboy]

@mygomez100 Sand is not oil bonded but a foundry greensand. I think its a natural sand and I have been advised by a foundry supplier it contains coaldust.I have switched to Losalt in place of table salt which seems to get a better casting. washing soda is sodium carbonate. I think this is available in the US as pool shock.

[@riosur77]

Gracias por transmitir éste arte Maestro.Que ande usted bien.

[@myfordboy]

@mikev118 Yes, but for the last few melts I have tried Losalt ,I think its called Litesalt in the States and I think the results are better. It is 33% sodium Chloide and 66% pottasium chloride.

[@myfordboy]

The metal used is all scrap alloy. I only use metal that has been cast before, i.e. no drink cans or extrusions. Parts of car engines, light fittings etc are used. Srength--The final product is ideal for my application of model engines. Easy to machine. Brittleness-- a small section could with care be bent without breaking but would snap if pushed too far . Simular properties to the origional metal I guess.

[@LEBANON707]

I do appreciate your work since I have some experience in home casting lead and tin as well as various copper alloys for jewelry applications

[@ab48726]

LOL, I just waiting for that boom! Nicely done! Thanks for sharing this, it was very informative to us guys just starting out.

[@myfordboy]

@ArtDelSol That is the dross. Any dirt or paint on the metal floats to the top and can be scooped off.

[@myfordboy]

No problem with the sand its the same as that used for cast iron and bronze. My furnace lining however would probably not withstand the higher temperature.

[@myfordboy]

@rhyboy1 Its only sand and can be easily dug out. Soaking in water softens it.

[@myfordboy]

@TheBJAdams The crucible is a stainless steel storage container. Flasks are made of wood.

[@myfordboy]

@liljohnnotbigjohn If the core is not vented the metal expanding air can push the metal away from the core and leave a void. If there is no core this is not a problem. Although standard practice is to also vent from the pattern I don't usualy do this.

[@BITTYBOY121]

Excellent work - Great stuff!! - I enjoyed watching both of your videos, That furnace was a bit tricky to light lol....but it's the end result that really counts and your engine body casting really worked well, I bet it was very rewarding when you started breaking away all the sand after completing the pour :-) 10/10 - Great Vid!

[@Mr_PNW]

I owned a home wine and beer making supplies store for 7 years. We offered soda ash (sodium carbonate) in bulk powder form for very cheap. It was used for the wooden barrels and cleaning. Any retail store should be able to get you some.

[@myfordboy]

@Lacrossanator1 Core is made from sand so can be easily dug out from finished casting.

[@myfordboy]

the washing soda is added last, it's to degas the melt. The salt is a flux. You may be pouring too hot if there are pin holes. I add a teaspoon per 5kg metal.

[@moking1761]

Hi again, Ignore my previous comments as I have found your FAQ page and all the data I need is there. Your videos are very good and I noticed an increase in the accuracy of your work which may be due to the new looking DRO unit. It's something I need to invest in but will have to wait until I return to the UK, next year I hope. Then It's new (old) lathe, new (old) mill. I will bring all my smaller kit back with me as those bits would be the hardest to replace after 60 years of aquisition. Best Regards to you and yours Mo K

[@myfordboy]

@gohuskies583 It is not necessary to remove it hot. If you leave it in the sand though it would take ages to cool and I can't wait to see the results !

[@myfordboy]

Sand is from foundry supplier. you can make your own by adding bentonite to regular sand although I hve not tried this.

[@Anything2bCool]

That was amazing. Everything was really clearly shown. Thanks for the education!

[@myfordboy]

I don't know if this would work. I know Sodium carbonate works. It is easily avaiable as washing soda. If you can get it in white powder form it can be used straight from the packet. If its in crystal form it needs drying in an oven until it turns to the white powder.

[@myfordboy]

@Sorigabor16 I tried to show how the sand should be in video 6. It should hold its shape when sqeezed in the hand and be able to be broken in half without crumbling. It can be poured into sraight away. If you cannot achive this without making it too wet maybe the sand mix is wrong. If you have made you own, try adding more bentonite (fullers earth)

[@myfordboy]

You can't make a hollow object without at least one hole to support the core and you must be able to remove it afterwards. The hole is usualy part of the design or if this is not possible it is plugged afterwards. Video number 33 in this series shows a water tank being made.

[@myfordboy]

@kgeorgejunior This is the DROSS. Its impurities in the metal like paint and oil that was on the scrap.

[@myfordboy]

@dsfrobots The core touches the sand mould in 3 places. The 3 places hold it in the correct location and are placed where holes are required in the finished casing.

[@myfordboy]

@rollyrunner The core is made of sand ( In this case mixed with various ingredients and baked in a oven) so can be dug out with a screwdriver. Soaking in water will soften it if necessary. You can see a core being removed in some of my later videos.

[@liljohnnotbigjohn]

@myfordboy That is good to know :). Thank you for the quick reply and thank you on the EXCELLENT series on green sand casting. I have a book which details what you are doing, but seeing craftsman @ work makes it all makes sense.

[@myfordboy]

The core softens if soaked in water and can be dug out.

[@myfordboy]

@darthjeff3 The salt is a flux. Makes the metal more fluid and brings up the dross to the surface.

[@myfordboy]

@jzj555 I dont recall using that word.You probably mean dross. Its the impurities on the metal like dirt and paint that float on top and can be scouped off.

[@myfordboy]

@ExecutorCR No, I have no need to melt stel. A different recatotry would be needed in the furnace to withstand the higher temperature.

[@myfordboy]

They would be using a resin sand chemicaly set. You can't heat up a greensand mould, the sand would dry out and fall apart.

[@FollowSmoke]

Why did I goof off in shop class? This looks unbelievably fun.

[@myfordboy]

It is smoke. The core in this one was made from sand ,linseed oil and a few other ingredients.The heat from the metal is cooking the core.

[@myfordboy]

@trobro2001 I am using a teaspoon of salt and soda to 5Kg metal, not critical. I use builders sand for the core, I don't want to loose my precious moulding sand.

[@myfordboy]

Sand core is made from a mixture of Building sand, linseed oil, wallpaper paste and flour. Pushed into a female mould, left to dry and then baked in an oven. I use a lot of MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) for the patterns. Comes in various sizes, has no grain and easily cut.( use a mask when cutting). Moulding sand is from foundry supplier.

[@myfordboy]

@MrHellsguardian00 It can be broken out or saked in water. See Metalcasting at home part 10

[@myfordboy]

@bisnonnocanapa I think this is what you are asking. Something was lost in the translation. The core is suspended at the ends by " core prints" so it is not touching the bottom of the mould.

[@myfordboy]

@sukaii I am using a commercial greensand. No need to preheat.

[@epineh]

Lots of great information in your video's, thanks for posting them.

[@myfordboy]

The sodium carbonate makes the metal more fluid. Core construction has been described in my reply to other comments above. It can be desolved by soaking in water.

[@myfordboy]

The core is necessary to form the internal hollow shape of the casting. Without it the casting would be solid.

[@MicSokol]

Nice work, very educational vid, you probably know but to get a right amount of melted metal you could sink the original part you wanna reproduce in some glass container and take measures before and after you sink the object in the water, the difference would be the right amount of metal needed plus some 10-15 % more for the feeder.

[@myfordboy]

The core is not sitting on the bottom it is firmly held in the correct location by "core prints "left in the mould by the pattern. If you compare the shape of the pattern with the finished casting you will see there are 3 extra parts on the pattern which make the care prints.

[@myfordboy]

@biglift1 Sand is a foundry sand. It has an element of clay in it to enable it to hold together.

[@synapse131]

When I was in college, we did small green sand castings with bronze. It's a bit more difficult than larger castings but it's possible for objects down to about one inch in size; any smaller and lost wax would be a better way to go.

[@myfordboy]

It can be reused after seiving it and adding a little water .

[@gohuskies583]

@myfordboy OK thanks. I can appreciate that. Whenever I make something I always get impatient at the end cause I can't wait to see how it turns out. Thanks for your reply. Nice job on the videos. Looking forward to watching more of them.

[@SciHeartJourney]

The whole time I was wondering, "how does he know he has enough"? I love those "out-takes".

[@myfordboy]

Salt works well with aluminium. I don't know the chemistry. I have also used LoSalt and now have some commercial drossing flux. They all work well.

[@myfordboy]

Depends on the work involved. Pattern making being the most time comsuming.

[@myfordboy]

I am scooping the slag off the metal. The slag is the impurities like paint and dirt that was on the scrap being melted. Hydrogen bubbles in the moulten metal will spoil the casting by leaving pin holes.

[@myfordboy]

Well done. Glad I could help.

[@Steverobbo]

Thanks for that I will get some from Tesco next time I go. Really helpful videos, Thanks

[@myfordboy]

I only use alloy that has been cast before. That way you know its suitable.

[@Superfoot]

Do you have a video on you made the home made furnace!. This video is great. Videos is much better than reading from a book.

[@myfordboy]

The hight of the tubes give the metal more pressure and the extra volume of metal created feeds the mould as the moulten metal shinks.

[@myfordboy]

@MasterHafnium Cucible is a stainless steel storage container. Heat is easily transfered through this material, its cheap and easily obtainable.

[@myfordboy]

Thank you for your comment. Glad you found it helpfull

[@myfordboy]

@Truthhurts3pm The core is made of sand not metal. You need to be able to support the core within the mould so to do your baseball would need 2 core prints which would leave 2 small holes in the finished casting which would need pluging.

[@ExecutorCR]

i lol'd with the alternative ending... thanks a lot Mr. myfordboy

[@myfordboy]

@srikanth94 These give a "head" of metal to feed the mould as the metal contracts when it cools. Also makes pouring easier by making a funnel shape in the feeder.

[@myfordboy]

For jewellery the lost wax method is usualy used instead of sand.

[@myfordboy]

Yes just the same for brass or iron castings.

[@fall22123]

It's nice to see someone casting with common sense safety equipment. I've watched so many people pouring wearing shorts and sandals with no safety glasses or gloves. I hope they don't have to learn the hard way.

[@myfordboy]

The core is made of sand the same as the mould so the heat does not effect it. The finished item can be seen in my video "Model Monitor hit and miss engine"

[@myfordboy]

@jsrnf Aluminium absorbs hydrogen when melting and the degassing drives it away.

[@myfordboy]

The core is not completly surrounded by metal. It is supported in the sand mould with extentions added to the pattern ( core prints)

[@biglift1]

thanks for the very interesting lessons and demonstrations. Question >> can you tell us some more of what kind of sand to use ? or is any fine sand good enough?

[@myfordboy]

@saviorslegacy I only have experience with aluminium casting. I don't think this would be suitable unless the walls were very thick.

[@NGinuity]

It's a sand core. You push something in there like a wooden dowel rod to break it up and you can blow the small pieces out with compressed air.

[@myfordboy]

The furnace lining is a mixture or fire cement and perlite.

[@abcd122]

Thanks so much for your replies, sorry I have another question. When you pour the moulten in the feeder or runner, anyway is it the hole? The core is sitting on the bottom mold would the distribution of the molten be uneven or when you pour it the molten would go under the mold as it is a liquird. As the core is sitting on the mold contacting the bottom part or the core automatically floats in the middle when the molten is poured?

[@myfordboy]

@isaacownsyou I live in the UK so cannot help with a supplier in your area. A lot of US metalcasters make their own moulding sand by adding up to 10% bentonite clay to play sand.

[@JosephDR]

Excellent series! Q: Why are you scooping out some of the aluminum while it's melting? Is the top part no good? Thanks!

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

In the previous video you mentioned the dimensions being adjusted by 2% for shrinkage, are there formulas that tell you that ?

[@myfordboy]

Just Google metal shrinkage.

[@myfordboy]

@blazterreck I am using sodium carbonate: washing soda.

[@paulmcguire3789]

always enjoy your video's

[@myfordboy]

It is harder to make a large thin casting, depends on the size of the object. You could easily do 1/4", 1/8" if smaller casting.

[@myfordboy]

Not sure I understand. Do you mean use wood as a mould?

[@hazemfire]

Really awesome.. Have some questions ? For the sand core.. how could it be manufactured. For the green sand.. where would be the best place to get. for the mould itself.. what kind of wood would best fit for the job THanks much