Metal Casting at Home Part 58. Brass Flywheel

[@richardabato9120]

I like your videos, nice change from some others who like to hear themselves talk.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Excellent video once again, also great to show the failure, a real credit to your workmanship. Thanks for taking the time to video all you do, its hard enough concentrating on casting as well as filming and ensuring we all get a good view. Your a credit to british ingenuity and tenacity - matt uk

[@pauls5745]

turned out very well! I appreciate all the casting tips I've learned in this series

[@rampaginghamster]

It is nice to see your progress over the years, you were much slower in the moldmaking process few years ago, now it is something in the like of "whoosh, whoosh and done" :)

[@johnbazaar8440]

Always like your videos. This is no exception. Thanks John

[@holry7778]

Great work as usual. It would be fun to see you building the molds and see the considerations make in making them.

[@BITTYBOY121]

David, thanks so much for the link, This video was amazing - I really enjoyed watching you make such a great brass casting 10/10. Please keep more of these fantastic videos coming! ;-)

[@svenp6504]

Your pattern making is beautiful as always.

[@chetvaldes]

My god you are such a pro at this- every movement you make looks so routine and practiced. Great video editing as well!

[@ajbbbt]

Very nice. The chunks from the extended risers are perfect bar stock for turning, too.

[@gdglock]

Nothing like a proper air compressor. Great video. Thank you.

[@Dave_clark_5]

Another great video. I never get bored of your vids !!

[@olexyvelychko7527]

David Clark same here!

[@christophegarcia753]

same, even 2 years after

[@HemiRod23]

Always love watching your videos. Your pattern making skills are excellent, and so are your results. Cheers!

[@Karl_Johansson]

Be proud of your work. Such handcraft of interest is disappering in these times!

[@bigginsmcsauce]

Another masterfully done piece, sir!

[@awldune]

Wonderful as always! Still looking forward to that iron cast you teased us about earlier :)

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

I really enjoy your casting work ! Thumbs up man ..

[@thepunk4hire359]

Other then the wonderful craftsmanship in your videos, you have some great song birds in them as well. Don't have many song birds in my part of the hemisphere. A added bonus to your outdoor work.....

[@Migueldeservantes]

Thank you so very much for posting this really important information! I always "Do not use any Sprues or raicers! so thank you It really meant a lot to me!

[@lunardust201]

the riser also helps add head pressure too , forcing metal into thin areas better

[@pierresgarage2687]

This video shows a couple of great tips, even the higher risers will save learning pains... I've read many comments and got a few more tips... Thanks for sharing, Pierre P.S. If this Green Sand, then it must be Red Scoop... :-)))

[@stillbashingmetal]

I've watched dozens of your home casting videos, and this one fascinates me just as much as the first one did! Thanks very much for the time and trouble you take to post on YT. Do you have videos of you making the MDF patterns? Thanks again.

[@WHITTONZ]

Brass and all other copper alloys absorb oxygen as they melt, which causes porosity. This can be prevented to some extent by placing some charcoal on top of the first charge before it melts.some of the charcoal will burn making the inside of the crucible oxygen free. As for zinc loss in brass, it is not entirely preventable, but fortunately not that significant.

[@BigMjolnir]

I can see burning charcoal making a lot of CO2 and displacing or using up O2, but when the blower is activated to pump in vast amounts of air, wouldn't that displace the CO2 with oxygenated air? Yes, that gets burned with the oil or propane furnace fuel, but unless it's adjusted perfectly, there will probably be leftover O2. -- Mike

[@WHITTONZ]

BigMjolnir thanks for your reply. I first saw a demonstration of this at the Midlands Model Engineering Exhibition a few years ago.The propane furnace was air-blown to melt the brass, yet a lot of the charcoal on top of the melt remained unburnt, proving that the atmosphere was oxygen free. I wish I could remember the name of the demonstrator, he was a mine of information. Regards, Billy

[@1stage]

Yay! Now if we can get Keith Rucker's oil burning forge refractory re-cast, he'll have this as a great example of how to re-cast the Victor safe dials! This is great!

[@myfordboy]

Sean Harrington He needs to watch my videos more closely and fill the centre form with sand as the refractory is added.

[@arjanwilbie2511]

myfordboy i told him slightly damp sand and easy on the compacting would help him with the tube. I am a restoration bricklayer, we poured crimp free mortar using the same tactics. With all the know how shared, we can do a awful lot :)

[@verdatum]

myfordboy oh man, wasn't it painful to see those few seconds where he realized the inner mold was collapsing? That said, I've successfully made a foundry using almost exactly the same technique he used; with an inner and outer cardboard cement form and everything. The only difference was that my refractory mix didn't have even remotely that much slump. Since it stood up on it's own, it didn't put much inward force; mostly just downward force. Our inner form didn't even begin to warp. He confirmed that he mixed it according to manufacturer instructions. still, man that stuff was incredibly fluid...

[@spyderz1303]

Very tuneful blackbird in the background.

[@gary.solexa]

The Master at work.

[@MaturePatriot]

Do you say a prayer while you're down there that it will turn out alright? Great looking Flywheel.

[@jimstone2669]

I love your videos your furnace is the BEST home made I heaver seen .Is there a reason you never talk.

[@130badger]

You should try making some molds on a 3D printer. That ought to allow for some pretty interesting molds that you could otherwise no make.

[@GaryTruesdale]

Very nice work

[@lunardust201]

I like your fancy pounding tool! haha an old furniture leg

[@roswalt1]

Nice job.

[@snsfabricating]

Do you make your plastic patterns & if so would you do a video on that?

[@muskokamike127]

whenever I see you sprinkle babypowder on your molds, I can't help but think of all those guys using it and then having their wife scream at them "WHERE'S MY BABY POWDER"???? lol

[@ErnieNoa3]

Nice job!

[@stevewylie5086]

Good vid and honest. Took me a lot more pours before getting the metal clean enough to be useable I found a small amount of lead added makes easier machining and for Zinc loss a small amount of ZL12 from artisan-foundry helped especialy when remelting swarf. Quenching the cast in a tub of water straight after break out cleans the crudd off and saves work. I never use any borax now not noticed any difference in quality of casts and crucibles last a lot longer.

[@myfordboy]

Steve Wylie I have some ZL12 and will add some next time a do brass. Good tip. When I added borax it certainly cleaned up the metal and brought the dross to the top.

[@stevewylie5086]

myfordboy Add the ZL12 just before pouring or it will be lost before the brass has melted properly. It does melt very quick and soon the smoke will follow. Have fun

[@yourbeekeeper]

Very nice!

[@keithzerrlaut766]

awesome video, have you thought about adding phosphor copper shot to the brass to up the liquidity? Your videos are always inspiring!

[@myfordboy]

KEITH ZERRLAUT I haven't done much brass casting so still have a few things to try. There was no problem with the liquidity though it poured like water.

[@leonardhesch7091]

Good job.

[@gwheyduke]

Looks like you have a new furnace ?

[@myfordboy]

gwheyduke Yes. i did a series of videos showing the construction. Part 1 here---- kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJPRo6KXo7Wnask

[@JDeWittDIY]

When casting brass, there's no need to degas it like aluminum? (Everything I know about casting, I've learned from your videos)

[@myfordboy]

J DeWitt No need to degas brass. it's just aluminium that absorbs hydrogen.

[@JDeWittDIY]

myfordboy Thanks, good to know.

[@michaelclark2840]

Nice job indeed. May I pleas ask where do you buy your crucibles?

[@myfordboy]

specialplasters.co.uk/foundry-products/crucible-clay-graphite.html

[@PLINKER]

Great job! Looks fantastic! risers worked great! Any advise for making rather thin brass metal castings! what to watch for? Going to try for some banjo tail pieces and other banjo parts tone rings etc.

[@myfordboy]

Tom Frost The thinnest brass i have done is the brass plate kzbin.info/www/bejne/aouoXnaIjqhra8U about 5mm thick. I did not have any problems with it filling. I imagine your parts are thinner. If there are any problems filling you could try with the mould vertical instead of horizontal. Known as a brass flask.

[@gekiryudojo]

That was Awesome!

[@seanatherton123]

nice film ,

[@LovemeAquarius]

Awesome, as usual !!!

[@billbraski2175]

hey buddy. your the man

[@clarkeeasterling3225]

Great pour. I have a question, I use straight tubes like you for my sprue and vent, some use a sprue cutter that's conical. Is the cone to help pack the sand of the sidewalls as they push through beneficial? I think I understand their method but it requires extra effort and I don't know that it makes any difference. I prefer your way because I can precisely place the feeder and vent where they need to be. The only problem I've encountered is I keep forgetting to leave enough area between the flask and tube to ram the sand.

[@myfordboy]

Clarke E The conical tubes are better if you push them through the rammed sand but like you I prefer to add them as I ram the mould so I can place them exactly where I want them.

[@brothyr]

if there are sections of the casting that are crack-prone, wouldn't it be easier to make those sections slightly thicker and refine them after the casting?

[@myfordboy]

Adam R No need to do this it's just a matter of changing the gating so.

[@geoffreyrichardson6540]

Hi again, is that sand you use similar plastering sand

[@myfordboy]

No its not. The sand in this video is petrobond an oil based sand.

[@tipetu]

The wooden molds look beautiful. That must take some time to make. How do you slice them in half so clean?

[@myfordboy]

tipetu They are not cut in half but are made as 2 separate parts like shown here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6S0dH1sp9toatU

[@Journeyman-Fixit]

Nice, is that some kind of special sand? (Thumbs up).

[@myfordboy]

Journeyman It contains clay that holds it together. Known as greensand. myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/greensand.html

[@jimdavis8391]

Great stuff! where do you buy your casting sand? Are there different types?

[@myfordboy]

+Jim Davis The sand I use comes from here artisanfoundry.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=38 There is another main type which is oil bonded called Petrobond.

[@JimBimBum]

+myfordboy yo just a question how heavy would a 1.2 foot brass pole be? just curious.

[@myfordboy]

Depends on the diameter. Google the weight of brass.

[@flipkicks23293]

where do you get your scrap brass, if you dont mind me asking? In general, where are the best places to find scrap brass?

[@myfordboy]

+Chris Molette I had some brass plaques given to me at rallies that were used here. Plumbing fittings would be a good source.

[@petergregory5286]

Hi, Another very informative video, thank you. Keith Rucker was mentioned in among the comments and he had a problem with blow holes. How did you avoid these, was it temperature control? Regards.

[@myfordboy]

Peter Gregory I have not done much brass casting but have not had problems with holes. I can measure the pouring temperature. I think correct gating is the secret.

[@WoodoakWilderness]

In your brass plaque making vid you used Petrobond sand. In this one you used Greensand, is there a reason for this? Is it to do with the molten metal being poured? Im really enjoying your vids, thank you for sharing your fantastic work. ATB Dave

[@myfordboy]

I used Petrobond on the plaque as this give better detail on the small letters.

[@spyderz1303]

What type or brand of sand do you use? I cnc moulds and patterns for other people, but I am going to get into casting myself . Would a central heating burner be too big for a furnace like that?

[@myfordboy]

spyderz1303 This is the sand i use. artisanfoundry.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=38&osCsid=932b7bbb45af1524a27fd64a7709dd8e I have seen central heating burners used for a furnace, you would only be able to use kerosene, not waste oil with those. The burner tube is on the large side and the flame shape is short where a furnace really needs a long flame to swirl around the crucible.

[@jamesbarratt593]

Can you tell me where do you get the brass to be melted down?

[@myfordboy]

Cast brass door handles.

[@WhiskyPankcake]

Can the old sand be re-used?

[@myfordboy]

WhiskyPankcake Yes it can. Over and over again.

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. You seem to have this casting lark licked. The first time was just a test, to see if you could do it without the risers was it? Nicely done! Marcel.

[@myfordboy]

Marcel Timmers I believed the risers would not be needed for brass as the metal is much heavier than aluminium. It seems they were needed for this particular shape of casting.

[@chyfarm7158]

myfordboy Hello Marcel, many thanks to you for this excellent and instructive video. One question please, does this mean almost the same in casting a flywheel with cooling fins around its circumferential edge, one like installed for a bush cutter engine and chainsaw engine? Thanks ahead.

[@marceltimmers1290]

***** Dear Mr Chy. I think you have been a little confused. I am also an observer, and will respectfully redirect your question to myfordboy, who has much more knowledge about this subject than I do. I would say that casting fan blades would be very hard to do, because they are so thin. Marcel.

[@chyfarm7158]

Marcel Timmers Ooops, an embarrassing mistake I made! dear Marcel, sorry for this, and thank you for your informing me of this .

[@myfordboy]

***** I always use the same gating for wheels and it works well. Feed the metal into the rim and add riser in the centre. Never pour directly into the hub of mould as this could wash away the sand. As stated by Marcel thin fins are difficult to mould and fill.

[@bonehead110]

You make it look so easy.A Question if I may? I have offered to cast a plaque for the veterans organisation I belong to to be mounted at a war memorial and it is fairly large, (400mm X 600mm).This will be cast in bronze.I am concerned about the positioning of sprues and risers to ensure I fill the mold completely. Any ideas or tips.Thanks!

[@myfordboy]

+shaun porter I have not made anything large in brass or bronze, I mainly use aluminium. The large thin parts i have cast have been the most troublesome. I had to have a large feeder, 2" dia. to get the mould to fill. It should be easier with bronze though. It may me necessary to split the feed inside the mould so the metal feeds into 3 places.

[@bonehead110]

Thank you so much,about what I thought as well,once I do it I will post a video of my success and failures.

[@titter3648]

What do you use to paint the MDF pattern? In my experience MDF (that is cut and no longer have the top skin) just sucks up paint like a sponge so you have to use a lot of paint to saturate it.

[@myfordboy]

Wankel Motor I use a couple of coats of emulsion paint to seal the MDF and finish with spray paint. Works well and the MDF is available in a wide range of thicknesses.

[@Rainbows871]

Whats the little nub on one of the spokes for?

[@myfordboy]

Rainbows871 The flywheel pattern is for this engine kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYikiqyCdriImLc The displacer rod connects to the flywheel.

[@verdatum]

Great vid, as always. I'm sure you've frequently used this technique in your vids, but I only just noticed the following: You didn't use a sifter to apply the first layers of sand up against the pattern. On both the cope and the drag, you just threw a handful of sand in and continued on. So, from your experience, when would you say that it's safe to skip sifting your sand onto the pattern at first, and when is it critical? if ever?

[@myfordboy]

verdatum I sift the whole batch of sand before use so there is no point in sifting the first layer again. I have a special tool to prepare the sand kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmbdkHmZqdmiqM0

[@verdatum]

myfordboy Ah, that makes sense. Thanks!

[@bobwhite7815]

I am having trouble casting this particular piece that has a hollow center because my core keeps moving when i pour. any ideas or what i could be doing wrong? By the way, enjoy all your videos.

[@myfordboy]

+bob white The core should not be able to move. Make the pattern with core prints. The the impression left in the mould after the pattern is removed will have locations for the core to sit in. Like shown here myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/metal-casting-tips-and-faq.html If you are placing the core onto the drag directly it could be prevented from moving by pushing a steel pi through the core and into the sand.

[@geoffreyrichardson6540]

Was the gate just cut on one side of the mold ?

[@myfordboy]

Yes I find this always works for me even on big wheels. i don't know why others feed in in more than one place.

[@geoffreyrichardson6540]

@@myfordboy Thanks to the information and your Step by step videos

[@MrLambertinho]

Will this furnace generate enough heat for Iron?

[@myfordboy]

Paddy Lambertinho Yes. I have melted iron. Only a small amount just to see if the furnace would reach the necessary.

[@elliottgraham]

Thanks again.

[@tankmorpheus9803]

what are you using to melt the iron and what heat does it go up to

[@myfordboy]

+Sam Scotski This is brass not iron.

[@qinzhang3306]

Hello,Master, How do you deal with dross?When I casting with Aluminum,,more than 30% is dross, alumium from drink can.

[@myfordboy]

张钦 Drink cans are not the best choice of metal. There is so much surface area to metal content that the dross will be high like you have found. The properties of aluminium used for drinks cans is different from that used for castings. Forget the cans and use some metal that has been cast before and you will get much better results. Have a look at this kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3etg3adfc-Xm6M

[@corried5576]

What is the red coating on the MDF? Is it just paint?

[@JDeWittDIY]

Corrie Cole In some of his other pattern building videos, he gives them a couple coats of glossy paint from a rattle can.

[@corried5576]

J DeWitt OK . thanks I appreciate it.

[@myfordboy]

Corrie Cole The coating is paint from a spray can.

[@andyg3]

what is the furnace you use?

[@myfordboy]

It's a home made one. Full build series begins here kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJPRo6KXo7Wnask

[@spencerdasilva]

what is the flux for? How do you know you have the right kind of brass. I've been collecting brass items and each one is made up differently. Trying to cast for automotive hood ornaments. could you give me some advice.

[@myfordboy]

+spencerdasilva You want borax for flux, It brings the impurities in the metal to the surface and makes it easier to pour. I don't know how you can tell what scrap you have , you will just have to put it all together. Fittings that have been cast before are best. Don't overheat or the zinc will leave the brass.

[@spencerdasilva]

awesome, thank you

[@vitalstatistix8442]

Do you re use the sand?

[@myfordboy]

VitalStatistiX The Petrobond can be reused but the burnt sand should be discarded. Greensand can be used over and over again with no loss.

[@mikruson]

Amazing myfordboy :)

[@qinzhang3306]

Hello!Master, I mix 5KG sea sand+500g bentonite clay+200ml oil,is good for casting?

[@myfordboy]

张钦 I don't know that mix. Sea sand will contain a lot of broken shell so I would not think it would make a good greensand.

[@00he00]

Hi there where do you get your borax from?

[@myfordboy]

Ebay.

[@Artiste360-u]

how mutch tims the alimniom can be font ?

[@myfordboy]

+fenix london I cannot understand your question. Please write in Engilsh.

[@Artiste360-u]

time to melt the aluminume ?

[@myfordboy]

+fenix london Aluminium about 20 min from cold.

[@qinzhang3306]

Hello!Dear Master! Before I use borax to casting Aluminum.There are many residue in the furnace , it's so hard，do you know how to clean?

[@myfordboy]

张钦 Borax is a flux for brass not aluminium. You have borax residue in your crucible? I have not had this problem so have no easy suggestion on how to clean it.

[@qinzhang3306]

myfordboy I no idea fot that, when furnace cooling, I use hammer hit it, but still useless.

[@myfordboy]

张钦 Could you not just leave it then?

[@qinzhang3306]

myfordboy I heard heated over 900 Celsius degrees, borax crystal will disappear.Maybe this is why borax no problem for brass.

[@caskwith]

I have those screwdrivers! lol

[@rogerrabbit80]

When watching casting videos, I always see people use baby powder as a parting agent. Most baby powder is just corn starch (corn flour) with added perfume. Wouldn't plain corn starch work just as well, and cost less?

[@myfordboy]

The baby powder I use is Talc not corn starch. I don't know what others use.

[@wubblybubbly5558]

Sorry to bother you again, but you seem to know a lot about most things relating to metal melting and molding. I was wondering, have you tried making a master mold out of copper and pouring aluminium into it? I did a quick research and aluminium seems to expand more than copper, so do you think it would be possible to do this? (and if you can test it out without any cost it would be greatly appreciated)

[@myfordboy]

Anonym Trash Never heard of anyone doing this. Die casting is the closest where hot metal is injected into a metal mould which is then opened up to remove the casting. Pouring into an open mould, i.e. one with a flat side which is open gives poor castings. To get a good casting the mould needs to be closed and have large feeder and riser to give pressure to the metal.

[@javiercordova712]

Excelente trabajo felicitaciones

[@carlosbravo9051]

Hola,,, como se pueden ver desde los primeros videos este es el primero que veo este es el primero Nª58

[@Digital_Minimalism]

How the two parts of the wheel stay superimposed

[@myfordboy]

SILVERGOLDLUX There are 2 dowels in the pattern that locate the halves in the correct position.

[@americhal]

Maravilloso

[@BảoxuyênBạcliêu]

Thật tuyệt vời👍👍👍👍👍

[@qinzhang3306]

very well！

[@toxicsqurrielgaming2234]

I know how to make that kind of furnace

[@happydog281]

may be you people should leave this to the experts and go see your local foundry before one of you are burnt really bad

[@retoxxx1]

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