MF135 Restoration #15 Assembling the Injection Pump

CAV Injector pump reseal and assembly.
In this video I go through assembling the injection pump. You will notice I fitted a spring in the wrong hole but it was picked up while editing the video and now is in the correct hole. Bloody hard to get good help, lol.
Here is links to parts used:
End cap and vanes, www.queenslandtractorspares.c...
Seal Kit,
www.queenslandtractorspares.c...

[@jimmollohan5739]

Lance, a really big thank you for your videos and sharing with the world! I'm in Canada. White 1350 tractor, I did get the spring set up wrong on the bottom of the injection pump and once on your site found the manual for the CAV pump and figured it out. I also didn't see the timing mark on the gear attached to the front of the engine. Have done a lot of mechanical but wanted to try the injection pump. Wouldn't have got it without several times watching your calm a detail you did. Bench tested alright but still couldn't start the tractor.... Tractor friend and customer of my construction company said he had 3 tractors locally that he had to tow after even fuel filter changes... After removing the pump once and rechecking on the bench, I reinstalled and 50ft pulling it in high road gear and a great sound of the engine was music to my ears! SUCCESS!! Again many thanks, Jim

[@BundyBearsShed]

Well that is good news Jim. They will test you at times.

[@bubulegros01]

Very good and better information for my pump, thank you

[@BundyBearsShed]

You are welcome

[@carlreich]

Lance, I have to thank you. I have a 1977 Land Rover Series III Diesel that was sitting for 8 years and two diesel mechanics couldn’t get it started. The second mechanic said the pump needed rebuilding and I never heard from him again. I started learning everything I could and another person on KZbin credited you in a video so I started watching your videos. I decided to tackle the job myself and while watching your video I worked on my pump. I had a clear and clean bench 😀 as you direct and I have to say, at one point when I was ready to give up you said,”You have to just keep your wits about yourself” and that was what I needed at that moment. The Land Rover is now running. It blows some grey smoke for now but it runs so well. Thank You Lance from Carl here in Florida, USA.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks, Im glad it helped.

[@simontall5134]

Brilliant - taken the "mystery" out of these pumps, thank you.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad to help.

[@johnambler3107]

G Day Lance, I’ve really enjoyed these videos on the pump overhaul.. I used to work as a truck mechanic years ago but never got to strip any fuel pumps, they were always sent to the fuel injection dealer for repair. These videos are great and I really appreciate the extra effort it must take in making them.

[@kenh3344]

Yes we had to take them to the pump and injection shops .

[@malcolmfinlay6779]

Great videos Lance, I just finished fixing the same fuel pump on an international backhoe that would not inject, with help from this video I found the plungers in the head stuck from sitting too long, cleaned it all up and re-sealed, tested in the vice, injecting now, you beauty! I'll bolt it on next week and hopefully it fires up. I also have a siezed Ferguson TE20 that I need to rebuild so I'll be watching your videos on your fergie with keen interest. Great job your doing, not many people are rebuilding anything these days so this stuff is gold. Malcolm Finlay, Mount Isa

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Malcolm, I hope the pump works out for you, I reckon it will.

[@robertgriz2500]

You're the man Lance. I picked up a Long 445 and have been going through the diesel system trying to get it running. The injection pump is a little backwards / different than the one you rebuilt, but 90% same components. Can't thank you enough for taking the time to share your trade, it's been an overwhelming educational experience. Thank you friend!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks, Im glad it helped.

[@freeride202]

These DPA pumps without an advance are very simple. If you have a tractor that sat for a few years, cleaning it out like this will most likely get you back to 'start and run' condition. But this is not rebuilding the injection pump. These pieces of equipment are old and I don't blame people for diy repairs. I think this was a good video, but people should be aware that a proper rebuild replaces more components and involves calibrating the pump. This ensure maximum service life and proper fuel delivery without excessive emissions. I understand many people can put up with some running issues as long as they can make it work for a few hours a year and yes save a lot of money. I'm giving this video a thumbs up.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks.

[@kenh3344]

You are correct that a shop built pump has all the correct settings etc. . Calibration.

[@ivyjoe100]

This is and awesome training tool and I’ve looked for something like this for days. Thank you so much for your attention to detail and ease of explaining everything.

[@BundyBearsShed]

You're very welcome!

[@XuanTrong-ew2hb]

​@@BundyBearsShedChào thầy thầy có thể cho biết hệ thống ben mf135 không lên thì khắc phục thế nào

[@philprickett3168]

Hi Lance. Thank you for a great instructional vid. I picked up a kit from your site and with the help of your instructions was able to fit up the pump. Looks great atm. Thanks again. Phil

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@jonny6122]

Thanks so much for this video! I rebuilt the CAV pump on my 1960 International B275 after watching and it works great. I especially like the bench test of the pump and shut down mechanism. I was concerned about it running away and that eased my worries.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Great to hear! Glad it helped.

[@bahramsedighi]

Thank you so much, it helped me to fix my leaking fuel pump specially from min 36 to 42 which explained how to test every parts are installed correctly. Appreciate your time and efforts and your descriptive video.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@paulricelli5520]

🔥🔥🔥Outstanding. Fixed my backhoe from your great videos. A billion thanks. 👍👍👍

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad to help

[@dustinkeith7641]

Thanks for the videos, I got my injector pump back running on my NH L783 thanks to you.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Good news right there.

[@rodneyyeomans5632]

another awesome video Lance ,thanks so much for all the information much appreciated

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Rodney.

[@duncanrose3891]

Great video Lance. Keep up the good work 👍

[@curtisdunham2074]

Thank you so much for showing the reassembly of the top cover, I've been trying to get the spring on with a pair of needle nose pliers and had not been successful. Now I know to connect the spring inside and then put the top on! Edit: I just finished this job on my AD4-203 Perkins motor, the only thing I would add is to make sure the stopper nipple on the bottom side is facing the motor block when you put back on. Mine was not and I could not get the pump to push fuel at all. Took the top back off and fixed the problem, also the spring should move like Bundy shows in the video, if it is not hooked up properly both will move freely from each other (the throttle and stopper) I had to use the hand pump to push fuel back into the injection pump, that is what the bleed screws are for, once I did this it was very easy to get the motor to fire and run again. Thank you so much to Bundy Bears Shed channel for this and his other videos. I love that he uses regular hand tools and explains everything so well. Would feel comfortable attempting about anything that this man has made a video about.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Curtis, Seems like you are on top of it .

[@poulgammelgaard8868]

Another great video. Excellent filmed and explained. Thank you from Denmark.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Poul.

[@Stevie-P123]

Exactly what I was thinking. "Filter upside down." 😄👍 Great stuff. Appreciate it.!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad to help!

[@Stevie-P123]

@@BundyBearsShed in the process of rebuilding a similar pump for a colleague , your videos have helped no end and compelling to watch. Cheers.

[@clearprop75r]

OUTSTANDING Lance. Followed along with my pump that had been sitting 13 years. now it works like a charm! $18 for the kit ! Beat the dickens out of $450 for a shop rebuild!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Well worth the effort

[@CS_247]

Just done mine with your help, she runs like a top now! Thanks mate! Off to the pub with some of me savings, we'll have a Bundies for you! 👍🏼

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad I could help, have a beer or 10 for me, lol.

[@ElementofKindness]

This definitely gives me the confidence to give a go at it, and dig into my pump. Guessing either that little screen, or more likely, stuck pistons, from the pump sitting for nearly three years while I was rebuilding the engine.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Stuck pistons is common but easy to remedy.

[@ingvarmagnusson5993]

Thank you for this istructive video, it realy helpt me out,since I´m haveing a -71 135 under restauration, so once againe, thanks a lot!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it could help.

[@markgreen4434]

Thanks matey, I have a Perkins 4236 in a boat.Priced a new cav pump from perkins $2.500.full rebuild $1.200,seals only rebuild $600, one from china $600. Thanks to you I did full rebuild for $400. Runs like a top

[@BundyBearsShed]

Good news.

[@skaraborgcraft]

I attempted a rebuild a few years back, and ended up buying a new pump. My new pump had just failed, so watched your video which covered some stuff i didnt see before. Mr furgy is back to singing bud-ha-bud-ha-bud-ha. I will also be rebuilding the old pump, now i know how to deal with it. Thanks for sharing.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad you finally got it sorted out.

[@skaraborgcraft]

@@BundyBearsShed Just an update. Tractor stopped running. Took the pump apart again, have to ask, have you ever seen a sheared rotor head shaft? What would cause that, it obviously siezed up.

[@chriscoopes4043]

Hello Lance, London calling again, well still somewhere in rural England actually - tractor country. You've still got it - the ability to pass on knowledge succinctly whilst keeping it interesting. Really enjoying your MF135 series - keep on videoing mate. Until next time ....

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Chris, Glad you enjoy it.

[@ArifArif-pv2sn]

Ll

[@rpalaniz]

Thank you for your time sir!! great Video!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thankyou, I hope it was of some help.

[@terrysmith4651]

Thank You so much for making this video I had the inlet valves all out of sequence.....you saved me $$$$

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@robertmintz63]

I could watch your vids just to hear the good country music you play ! And thanks for not playing it during the instructions , as I have seen some doing .

[@BundyBearsShed]

Im too busy talking and dropping things, lol.

[@mikaellarsson5109]

Thanks for the video!! The information was a great help Greetings from Sweden 👌

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Mikael.

[@vtbgiraud]

Thanks Lance, I owe you a beer or three, mate. Only problem I had is that my pump, MF50A backhoe, is reverse rotation to yours. Had to pull HP pump apart to free small pistons and put roller in backwards, realized this at 3AM lying in bed. corrected this and runs like a charm. If I never get back downunder, I will have to look you up, but Queensland is too bloody hot for me. Vic, Canada

[@BundyBearsShed]

Sounds good, i do the think in bed thing too.

[@billmacdonald1533]

Re-installed the pump today. Starts and runs like a champ and no leaks!! Used the new end cap too. I didn't get yours because you don't ship to Canada; you should fix that :) Just so you know, I generally do things two or three times... good practice, I guess. Again, thanks for the videos Lance. I never would have tackled this job without them. My 135 is a '67 six speed as well, so I'm always watching your videos.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Great to hear!

[@WaterhouseForde]

Another great video Lance! I got to get me one of those bead blasters!

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Gordon, They certainly make the job easier with a very nice finish.

[@joevanbommel9490]

I find putting the regulator valve together before installing cover on pump much easier. Everything slides in horizontally. Good video . Thanks.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes I do that at times now as well.

[@incubatork]

Another great tutorial Lance, now to wait to test and see if you did it right, 😂😂😂

[@BundyBearsShed]

Have faith, lol.

[@user-wo7rz3yn4o]

Thanks to videos like this one I was able to tackle my pump overhaul. Not without problems however but I do think I learned something that might be helpful to others as well. I believe I had a serious air lock after disassembly and just could not get it to pressurize fuel at all. I disassembled again and filled the fuel passages in the rotor shaft with wd-40 and then proceeded with suggested procedures. Right away I got fuel spurts when turned over by hand for the first time.

[@user-wo7rz3yn4o]

I now got the engine going but after running for 5-10 minutes it wants to race to 2000 rpm. I haven't allowed it to run like that but for a moment at a time. For the first 5-10 minutes the low idle was smooth but about 150 rpm lower than it should be. What the heck now?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Sticky metering valve possibly.

[@user-wo7rz3yn4o]

@@BundyBearsShed that is what I would expect it to act like if the needle valve is at fault. The needle valve operated flawlessly the several times I had it apart and back together, however I guess anything is possible. I was wondering if the auto advance mechanism can cause such issues?

[@leonardhubenak8764]

Thank you from texas

[@BundyBearsShed]

Our pleasure!

[@denniskennedy6579]

Really good instructions, put out in layman's terms.( simple)

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@charleshart6992]

Another great video - I thought you put the spring in the wrong hole, but you couldn't hear me talking to the screen LOL.

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Charles, The missus says I dont listen, lol. , I did have it wrong and I hadnt realised until I was editing the video but it is fixed now. Next time I wont draw the pivot as I mistook it for a hole.

[@patmowatt2130]

I've just had one of these start leaking on my 1985 Universal UTB 640 tractor. I'm in Canada- wish you lived a little closer and I'd gladly pay you to rebuild it! Still, great video, thanks for the demonstration.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Pat, They are not that hard to do but everyone has different comfort levels with this sort of thein.

[@patmowatt2130]

@@BundyBearsShed After watching your video, I had a closer look at mine and saw that there were two leaks, one at the lower bleed screw which I fixed with a copper ring (didn't have a steel one). The other leak is at the top of the throttle shaft and this is the bad one- it appears that the shaft tunnel itself might be worn badly enough that the o-rings below might not seal it when replaced. So I managed to find a rebuild kit on ebay that comes with the top cover, and thanks to your video, I know I can try the repair without removing the pump from the tractor. The pump itself works fine, so I'm not going to go any deeper than that. I don't know if you guys have many of these UTB tractors in Australia (they are a Fiat clone, as are White and Long), but I'd love to see any videos you might have dealing with them. Again, thanks for the great work.

[@jamesbramblett3346]

Thanks so much . Hooking up the governor spring on both ends sure saves a lot of “fiddling “ installing the cover . Why didn’t I think of that ????!!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

I didnt think of it for years either.

[@waynegotthardt3233]

I caught that too Should be in the hole closest to the pivot. "Just can't get good help these days" LOL

[@BundyBearsShed]

Nup Im thinking of sacking myself, lol.

[@hansjurgenschwartz3578]

Ha, after your reassembly you adjusted the mark to the left flange. Glad to see at 20.55. 😜👍

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes I get busy filming and pick up things when watching the first filming and fix things. Filming the process makes a couple of hour job into an all dayer.

[@xeroxene]

Phew! I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed this. I had to go back to the previous episode and double check. Nicely spotted.

[@mat7883]

Great video! Cheers from Tassie ;)

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks for watching

[@carlcarlson180]

That is a great instruction video 😀

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad you think so!

[@kathyparker7140]

So much information you have

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thankyou.

[@hirenyadav6288]

CAV very best pump Old is gold

[@BundyBearsShed]

Popular pumps.

[@padraicmcgowan8772]

Thanks i was messing with a pump off a wee 35x all day and getting nowhere till I watched your video now shes sucking diesel i owe you a pint

[@BundyBearsShed]

Im looking forward to that.

[@surkhabsingh347]

Good information sir.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thankyou.

[@incubatork]

for putting springs and stuff down into deep holes i have often had to put the springs onto a thin long screwdriver, put the screwdeiver in the hole then drop the spring in, they can only go in to place as the screwdriver shaft acts as a guide.

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Derek, Yes I have done the same but I need to de magnetize them at the moment. I think the magnetic parts trays transfer some of their magnetism when a screw driver rests on them.

[@Rain2bird]

Great video but you missed on approx. 20 minutes the alignement of the top bracket (clip) with the lower one. You can see on the video that the rollers are not fitted properly. But any way very big help for these pumps

[@BundyBearsShed]

When videoing I do some things a few times trying to keep focus etc. Pump runs great on the 135.

[@michaellyons7993]

Hi Lance, great work, very helpful videos, I am currently resealing my pump on a mf 65, as it was leaking around the head, I also have a erratic idle, is there anything I can look out for while I have it stripped down, I had hoped someone had placed the governor spring was in the wrong position, but not so, also have a heavy diesel knock on acceleration

[@BundyBearsShed]

No not that I can send you to. Look at my web site www.queenslandtractorspares.com.au on the technical tab there is a free pump manual download that might help you .

[@johnkinnane547]

Good one Lance......John

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks John.

[@blueeyedfriend9886]

On your video MF135 Restoration #14 Dismantling the Injection Pump at 14:27 the spring was in the first hole from the shaft. At 32:20 in this video, on your drawing I believe you confused the circle for the shaft as one of the holes the spring goes in. I'm sure you've figured that out by now, as I'm very late to this party. Thanks for the videos!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes you are correct but I mentioned it in the description. I changed it when I noticed it in editing and the tractor runs well.

[@lonnieblackwell9215]

Lance, your spring is in the wrong hole. It was the one closest to the pivot hole. Good video very informative

[@BundyBearsShed]

You are correct I noticed it while editing and fixed it I also put a note in the description.

[@billquantrill4960]

Greetings Lance. I've a question: The acorn nuts on the top cover, do people sometimes wire those together? I ask because they have holes in them like crank cap bolts on old Ford engines do. Cheers.

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Bill, Yes from factory they had a wire and sometimes a seal so they knew if the pump had been tampered with while the vehicles were still in warranty. I dont fit them but it is an option for sure.

[@marcpottle2988]

Hi Lance, Surely appreciate your videos. Have a strong mechanical aptitude and have now disassembled and reassembled this pump 5 times without getting pressure enough to squirt through the banjo bolt valves. Pushed a pin punch into each banjo bolt and the spring pressure is quite stout but the piston moves fine. Have installed new veins, rotor, cover (with steel insert) and took the entire head apart, spraying carburetor cleaner through all the tiny holes noting the escape. Every printed diagram has been gone through and each component is in the correct order. NO PRESSURE! Will need pressure to open the injectors as well. Is there some end play in the head that I am missing? ...... Now on some foot notes for you and the mass crowd: The drive for the veins is right hand thread (lefty loosy) counter clockwise loose..... 2nd: The part that regulates the fuel amount (where the two screws go in to hold the rollers and all that) can only go on one way. The master daug lines up even if it is flipped over, BUT the two bolt holes are NOT 180 degrees apart and it will not bolt up. Just for those who lost track of 'witness' marks. This pump is very simple and I still can't get pressure. Now without the banjo bolts it squirts fine, as soon as I put it together it just oozes out! I just cant imagine what it could be. I adjusted the fuel amount wide open, still no pressure. Is there a check valve I'm missing? Ford 555 Backhoe. This pump has been taken apart previously by some others and returned to my poor neighbor in not so good condition. I am now making an attempt to repair it. Everything in your video is in that pump. Everything in the diagram is in that pump! I put straight banjo bolts (without valves) and there is not enough pressure to open the injectors Ie; 120 to 200 psi is needed before they will spray! Put an adapter in a drill and spun the pump to no avail! Yes, the stopper and metering valve are correct. Governor spring is in correct #7 by the chart. ..........HELP! .....................PLEASE

[@BundyBearsShed]

When testing check your inlet pressure is good as some 3 cylinders had no lift pump. It is also possible the head is just worn out, they did wear over time and hard starting is a sign of a worn head. It seems like you are onto the small things ok but check the plungers are not worn. The plungers are what builds the pressure but if that is getting lost somewhere you need to find that.

[@darrenblattner2508]

Just like that, nothing to it. Maybe you should have been a shop teacher, then again, it seems you are. Another good one Lance.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Darren, Yes it seems people like to listen to a bloke in the shed fixing his tractors. I would have never thought it years ago.

[@sibusisoshumane8973]

G day Lance, thanks very much for the training. Could you please explain the 20 | 24 ° 1. Are these degrees printed on the back of the flywheel? 2. Lastly does all messy ferguson tractors have the plug where you see these timing degrees (e.g. 20|24)?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes on the flywheel and most early Perkins engines do of this era.

[@HZ--ic6hn]

Wsk poznan spare parts. I used delphi parts for repairing dpa pump for 4-248 engine. But Your pump needs some calibrations. Such as maximum minimum fuel consumption or min max governor lever distance. Also also also You should add a spring to connect stop lever and throttle lever

[@BundyBearsShed]

If you keep the same setting it is all good to go.

[@xeroxene]

Hi Lance, regarding the Incredibly Important Circlip... What does it actually do? Is it just a timing reference mark or does it have a physical function?

[@BundyBearsShed]

The circlip gives the pump head a solid shoulder to go up against, and as a timing reference point. There is a small shoulder in the housing for the circlip to go up against.

[@MyShoelessjoe]

Hi lance. Great videos I am in the process of installing my cam ring. But I don’t have any shadows on mine.. does the arrow on the cam ring always face the back view of the pump. Or can the arrow go against the circlip. The very faint shadow I have is leading me that way..cheers

[@BundyBearsShed]

Arrow is pump rotation

[@Milan.1511]

Greetings from Serbia!

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day MilanG

[@Milan.1511]

@@BundyBearsShed Mr. Lance, is this pump needed Test Bench, if everything gets back to your place like you did?

[@muratcetin85]

@Bundy Bears Shed Good Morning.Thank you also in the comment.As you mentioned, idling goes back to normal when I hold cold water on the pump element.What exactly is the procedure we need to do?Can it be due to the X blades in the inner part?Can I repair myself.Respects.

[@BundyBearsShed]

No the pump will need to be replaced or the head of the pump at least.

[@robertmintz63]

Even when i crank mine over with the starter l don’t get that much fuel, Thanks for the video

[@BundyBearsShed]

It might just bleed out better with time.

[@wrknonitnow8711]

Just found you on here about a week ago...love your videos on injector pumps...do you know of any books i could order that would help me to learn more about it ...

[@BundyBearsShed]

look at my web site www.queenslandtractorspares.com.au on the technical tab there is a free pump manual download.

[@peterspong]

Ace video! Thank you. I’ve just finished and put it all back on a MF 148. Idles perfectly but when i advance the throttle the revs only increase slightly and she begins to hunt badly. Where’ve I gone wrong?!🤦‍♂️

[@BundyBearsShed]

Springs under the top cover in the wrong place.

[@chrisscott1547]

Thank you Lance for another very instructional video. Is there any reference material anywhere regarding symptoms versus likely failed parts? Like diesel into oil it's likely these parts, or if poor performance it's likely those parts?

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Chris, Diesel into the sump is usually the front pump seal but it can be a faulty fuel lift pump too.

[@chrisscott1547]

@@BundyBearsShed I think my Ford 3910 is gravity feed, so that narrows it down - thanks. Love your videos!

[@giemme4492]

Hi Lance, watching and watching again these videos to take confidence on this resealing I am planning to do on my CAV DPA. So, my CAV DPA pump has the automatic adjacent device at the bottom. Since this device has a round headed pin screwed on the cam rings that makes it rotate, I guess I won’t find any shadow mark on the cam the cross check it lines properly to the squared circlip end. Isn’t it? Thanks again for your instructive videos!!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

No you cant really go wrong with these.

[@giemme4492]

@@BundyBearsShed I see, my concern is that, being my cam ring rotated by the autoadvance device, it misses the shadow mark of the circlip as it is not stationary against it. Thank you a lot Lance!

[@xeroxene]

47:15 The fibre washer I got in the seal kit didn't fit at all, (too small ID) and ended up splitting. Can I just use any fibre washer the same size? Or is it made out of something special?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Any washer will do.

[@billmacdonald1533]

Hello Lance, I've been busy resealing my injector pump; thanks so much for the videos!! But, I ran into an issue that I'm wondering if you've seen before. I bought a new end cap since the original was worn and it doesn't want to fit. When I tighten the end cap on, I can't turn the pump. It seems to me that the steel insert is too thick and it's hitting the end of the shaft before the bolts are fully tight. If I try backing off the bolts slightly, I can turn the pump but the o-ring leaks. This would be no good anyway because how do you keep them from coming out of they're not tight. Have you seen this before? Is it possible to sand down the steel insert plate thickness by a couple of thousands? Or, should I just return it. Thanks for your thoughts on this.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I have seen the blades in the end too wide and cause a similar problem.

[@williamjindra6652]

Do the metal washers pump head come with the kit on the banjo fitting ?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes there would be 12 as the kit does right up to the 6 cylinder pumps.

[@waynegotthardt3233]

Are the wear plate ports symmetrical or dose it need to be installed facing the rotor in one direction only .

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes on the vane pump they are

[@carlcarlson180]

My big problem was the crap in my tank. After I replaced the tank problem fixed. Fuel filters could not keep crap out of pump. Hope this helps

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Carl.

[@xeroxene]

Hi Lance, one last question before I turn the key... Do I need to bleed the lines up at the injectors? Or is bleeding at the pump enough?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Bleed them at the pump end is good enough if the top is hard to get to.

[@xeroxene]

@@BundyBearsShed Thanks Lance. We're back in business! Pump is back on my MF 135, running great, and no leaks! Thanks very much for making all these videos.

[@dtnicholls1]

Hey mate, don't know if you caught it but that little line next to the rollers lined up on the other side of the gap in the retaining plate when you were pulling it apart.

[@BundyBearsShed]

That is just a filming thing, the tractor is up and running well. to film things there is a few takes at times.

[@asgardgeoff]

How did you get the CAV placard so clean and tidy???

[@BundyBearsShed]

I was just lucky it had a nice plate on it.

[@OlaGbolahan]

​ @Bundy Bears Shed Will do. Thank you! On another note I did the breakdown and full assembly but fuel was just barely dribbling out (no pressure) when spinning pump. So pulled the pump apart again and found that those two metal cylinders inside that hub were seized up. So forced them out and cleaned them so they move free-er. Then reassembled, but still no fuel pressure. Is there something else that can be the issue? Do I need to try blowing air through the tiny hole that the fuel flows into the hub through? Any other suggested next steps?

[@BundyBearsShed]

some times it ia hard to get the air out but bleeding on the tractor will get it done, I have even forced air through to pressurise the pump a bit. If it wont start start with a petrol rag or ether and once going the come good straight away.

[@OlaGbolahan]

@@BundyBearsShed so it wouldn't be something else stuck inside. You believe it's air in the pump? Thank you again for your help and great videos.

[@steveo3037]

Hi Lance ,on your drawing on the lever, the spring is in the hole closest the shaft, not the middle one

[@ccga3359]

Steve is correct, also I don't recall you tightening down the cover studs and locking tabs for them.

[@georgehunter3187]

Yup, eagle eyes!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Well spotted, I did and I hadnt realised until I was editing the video but it is fixed now. Next time I wont draw the pivot as I mistook it for a hole.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I did do the tabe and one gave me some strife so I shortened the video around there as I was fiddling a bit too much.

[@randysweat8470]

On a cav pump can you remove the back iend without removine the pump from the motor ?Mine is leaking where the the vane end goes into the main body.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes you can but they are usually easy to remove and replace.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

I ordered the end cap, with the steel insert, the original on was aluminum no steel insert, and was really rough looking, could this cause low fuel pressure, I have no pressure coming from the pump to the injectors, the fuel just drips out of the lines. I would think it should spray somewhat hard.

[@BundyBearsShed]

That may cause low pressure of the inlet only probably not your problem.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

Oh BTW my original end cap has the pin on the left side and my new one has it on the right side, that means the vane ring would be 180 degrees out, so will that make a difference?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes it can be changed over.

[@robertmintz63]

In this video you line up the edge of the little notch in the black plate with the line on the housing of the roller housing, but in the 2 part video disassembly / reassemble you have that little notch centered on the line. The difference would be the amount of fuel delivery, ? Or is there another reason ? Also unless l am mistaken your prognosis of which way to move this black plate for more fuel , disagrees with the other video I am glad to see you using a rag between pliers & top plate. That wee line around the back you talk about , is it not around about where you said the timing mark (G) should be ?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Not the edge of the notch the letter on the head.

[@justdoinstuff]

Hi Lance, should turning the pump by hand generate enough pressure to force fuel through a banjo fitting that has a valve in it?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes but they do get harder to turn for sure.

[@justdoinstuff]

Your videos made this project possible for me to do. Thank you! When turning by hand, fuel ejects from the 3 ports fine with no fittings but when I add the 2 valved banjo fittings no fuel comes out of these but the nonvalved fitting continues to eject fuel. Any thoughts?

[@catalinflorin1417]

Hi Lance. Im having trouble with a pump like this ( it s a Romanian copy made under lIcense). My question : the metal ring at the back of the pump in wich the vanes rotate (transfer pump) , has any orientation? Because i don t have a witness mark on it and it seem to be the same if i put it either way.. Thanks!

[@BundyBearsShed]

The roll pin in the rear cover should tell you which way it went.

[@catalinflorin1417]

@@BundyBearsShed Thank you! It seems that the metal ring has no orientation. It goes either face.

[@ShainAndrews]

Was going to make this comment on your disassembly, but thought it would make more sense here. 8:10 Instead of marking the housing on back side of the circle clip make your scribe on the other side. 10:08 Scribe a line on the the square end of the clip where your finger is. Start the scribe on the clip face, and continue onto the housing. It will be more accurate, and you can see it while reassembling.

[@rainermuehlberger6391]

what a great video...it is tremendous helpful...bought an MF65 which is now over 60 years old...the Pump was filled with ugly slimeallover...it could not work anymore. Now I have 2 questions on reassembly: 1. where does that little steel ball fit to? 2. the carrier for the pump blades ( with that crosswise slots in it) turned loose and off...if I fit back an turn to screw on it tightens....but too much...so much that the whole turning shaft thightens and locks the turning motion...what do I need to do to avoid locking the nice turning? thanks for your comments. best regards Rainer from Germany/ Lake of Constance

[@BundyBearsShed]

Little ball goes into the advance underneath if it has one, they are often not needed. The end plate with the vanes, you may need to sand the vales down a little to give clearance on the flat edges.

[@rainermuehlberger6391]

@@BundyBearsShed thank you a Lot...for your great Video and your helpful comments...my MF65 runs now very well...thank you so much 😊

[@tarasbulba2109]

Hi. I have disassembled, cleaned internally, put toric joints, retainers, vanes and all new end plate. I have mounted it again without problems, but by turning it manually to prime it with diesel and see if it works, I notice that it goes a little hard and goes like jerks. Can it be normal?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes it is as the rollers come up to the cam to push the plunger in it feels notchy .

[@Alan-bg3iv]

Also I don't understand where the "shuttle" and the "plunger" is, and the rollers are on the top of the pump correct?, I really don't know much about this tractor that I'm working on. it is a 1992 MF 30 industrial backhoe and loader, we thought it was a 65 model, it has a 4 cylinder engine. hasnt ran since 2005. Also the metering valve was cleaned when I rebuilt the injector pump. Is there any chance of the end cap valve bad, it was pretty rough and pitted where the veins run against.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Go th the videos 14 and 15 again I explain it all in there.

[@benbartyzel2388]

Hi Lance, on my injection pump the three bolts, the center bolt, and pin that connect the timing gear to the pump all fell out - don't ask me how, it's never been disassembled before. I can source the three bolts (5/16 x 3/4 NF) and the larger center bolt is still there, but what size is the alignment pin (dowel) that goes into the drive gear? Thanks!

[@BundyBearsShed]

I cant say off hand as I dont have a pump here but 1/4" I would think.

[@benbartyzel2388]

Thanks Lance. It looked like about 1/4" but I thought it might be some odd size. I'll get a couple in and see if they work. Have you ever seen all the bolts back out like that? I was able to retrieve most of the hardware as all of the bolts were caught in between the pulley and cover, only one was broken, the dowel and washers are likely at the bottom of the oil pan - hope they stay there...

[@mattirwin440]

Thanks for video I resealed my 1080 Massy. After I put pump back on tractor it is running higher RPM at idle and throttling up . Took top back off to check spring location was in same holes came out of checked governor looks like in flats. Any suggestion what i did wrong. I turned throttle set screws for know not to run to fast and achieve low idle speed.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Usually it is the springs or the hook rod inside not hooked up correctly.

[@mattirwin440]

@@BundyBearsShed thanks will take top back off and check it out you make it look so easy on video.

[@tarasbulba2109]

Hi. I've been watching your great video because I think I'm going to have to disassemble the injection pump, because after purging the entire circuit, diesel doesn't get out of the injector tubes. What do you think the problem may come from? Thank you

[@BundyBearsShed]

Do you have the stopper hooked up correctly?

[@tarasbulba2109]

Thanks for answering, but I don't understand what you mean by "Do you have the stopper hooked up correctly?" If it is indicated that there are no diesel leaks or the stop control is correct, it is checked and OK

[@OlaGbolahan]

Dont think my seal kit came with the fiber washer you put on the plunger. Is it critical? Or do I need to get a new seal kit?

[@BundyBearsShed]

The gasket is just paper thin could you possibly make one?

[@OlaGbolahan]

@@BundyBearsShed Will do. Thank you! On another note I did the breakdown and full assembly but fuel was just barely dribbling out (no pressure) when spinning pump. So pulled the pump apart again and found that those two metal cylinders inside that hub were seized up. So forced them out and cleaned them so they move free-er. Then reassembled, but still no fuel pressure. Is there something else that can be the issue? Do I need to try blowing air through the tiny hole that the fuel flows into the hub through? Any other suggested next steps?

[@khalnes]

thanks really so much

[@BundyBearsShed]

You are most welcome

[@khalnes]

@@BundyBearsShed thank you

[@billmacdonald1533]

Not so golden now. Installed the pump on the tractor and it won't start. It's getting fuel at the injectors. I even put the old end cap back on and still won't start; turns over good but not even trying to start. I can't see how I could have messed up the timing. I've had the pump off before for painting and started right up on install. BTW- I didn't mess with the insides of the pump at all except resealing. Any ideas?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Is the metering valve working. I have had the odd one that takes a lot of bleeding but when you get them running they are fine.

[@jasone7687]

Hi Lance. Great video. I watched several times and followed along. After my reseal tractor was very difficult to start and would not go above an idle even at wide open. Even after bleeding for air multiple times. With a shot of ether it will rev and run great. You can rev up and down with the throttle but if if you let it idle down it will not rev back up. Any ideas. I have double checked everything and all the springs are in the proper holes and everything where the filter screen goes is also in correct order. I also did not remove the basket or circlip when doing the reseal as I didn’t see it necessary for my application. Please help if you can. Thanks again. If you need any more info please let me know.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I would have a good look at the little shuttle valve in the pump end cap to see it is pressurising the pump properly. With it reving up and down I would think the metering valve is moving but it does sound like a spring in the wrong place.

[@jasone7687]

@@BundyBearsShed the metering valve does move freely. The tractor ran great prior to doing the seals it was just leaky. I did check the end cap and verified everything is in the correct order from the videos. I am truly stumped. Thank you for your reply.

[@billmacdonald1533]

Hello again. I studied the issue further and discovered that it wasn't the steel insert that was too thick. It was that the machined slot in the end cap that the insert fits into had a high spot in the middle. The insert would teeter back and forth from the center in all quadrants. I figured that the high spot must have been pushing the insert into the shaft. So, I got the dremmel and sanded down the center of the slot making the surface as level as I could. Now the insert fits much better and is flush with the outer rim of the slot. I was careful not to touch the outer part of the surface so the insert sits in level. I installed the end cap again and the pump turns freely. So, as long as the newly sanded surface doesn't affect the fuel flow, I should be golden. What do you think?

[@BundyBearsShed]

It should be ok I would thing

[@rajansareen7025]

Nice video Sir I'm from India

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks and welcome

[@billcoty9124]

I'm about to tackle a 3600 ford with a CAV pump. I assume it's basically the same. I had someone put the shaft seal in it a few years ago and it's had a terrible lope till it's at half throttle. Is it possible he didn't align the spring in the proper whole when he put the top cap back on the pump? Any advise is appreciated. Thanks.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes it could be, just start from scratch and it will probably come good.

[@billcoty9124]

@@BundyBearsShed How will I know what hole to put it in if it's wrong?

[@chriswilkins2643]

Does the vane pump metal ring wear out of round, i run verniers over mine and its not round,, 0,5 mm in one spot OR is this how they are made I have put a kit thru it and still can not get it to squirt anyway near the volume as in this video Thanks

[@BundyBearsShed]

It needs to be out of round for the vanes to do their job of presurising the fuel. Sounds like it is fine just dont put it in backwards to what it was.

[@chriswilkins2643]

@@BundyBearsShed Thanks for that .. I have a new one coming soon with new vanes ,,The old one is pitted Thanks again i will look out for the witness mark on the old one