MF135 Restoration #15 Assembling the Injection Pump

[@carlreich]

Lance, I have to thank you. I have a 1977 Land Rover Series III Diesel that was sitting for 8 years and two diesel mechanics couldn’t get it started. The second mechanic said the pump needed rebuilding and I never heard from him again. I started learning everything I could and another person on KZbin credited you in a video so I started watching your videos. I decided to tackle the job myself and while watching your video I worked on my pump. I had a clear and clean bench 😀 as you direct and I have to say, at one point when I was ready to give up you said,”You have to just keep your wits about yourself” and that was what I needed at that moment. The Land Rover is now running. It blows some grey smoke for now but it runs so well. Thank You Lance from Carl here in Florida, USA.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks, Im glad it helped.

[@freeride202]

These DPA pumps without an advance are very simple. If you have a tractor that sat for a few years, cleaning it out like this will most likely get you back to 'start and run' condition. But this is not rebuilding the injection pump. These pieces of equipment are old and I don't blame people for diy repairs. I think this was a good video, but people should be aware that a proper rebuild replaces more components and involves calibrating the pump. This ensure maximum service life and proper fuel delivery without excessive emissions. I understand many people can put up with some running issues as long as they can make it work for a few hours a year and yes save a lot of money. I'm giving this video a thumbs up.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks.

[@kenh3344]

You are correct that a shop built pump has all the correct settings etc. . Calibration.

[@jimmollohan5739]

Lance, a really big thank you for your videos and sharing with the world! I'm in Canada. White 1350 tractor, I did get the spring set up wrong on the bottom of the injection pump and once on your site found the manual for the CAV pump and figured it out. I also didn't see the timing mark on the gear attached to the front of the engine. Have done a lot of mechanical but wanted to try the injection pump. Wouldn't have got it without several times watching your calm a detail you did. Bench tested alright but still couldn't start the tractor.... Tractor friend and customer of my construction company said he had 3 tractors locally that he had to tow after even fuel filter changes... After removing the pump once and rechecking on the bench, I reinstalled and 50ft pulling it in high road gear and a great sound of the engine was music to my ears! SUCCESS!! Again many thanks, Jim

[@BundyBearsShed]

Well that is good news Jim. They will test you at times.

[@simontall5134]

Brilliant - taken the "mystery" out of these pumps, thank you.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad to help.

[@ColinMill1]

Lance - many thanks for pointing me at this video. It makes pulling the top off to check the regulator valve feel less daunting. Interesting that this pump has the double regulator spring. I found my 35x has that arrangement too. I also found the regulator assembly a sufficient fiddle that, in the end, I removed the end plate and threaded the regulator cylinder, complete with piston and springs inside, into the housing with it horizontal so things didn't drop out.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Great tip!

[@ivyjoe100]

This is and awesome training tool and I’ve looked for something like this for days. Thank you so much for your attention to detail and ease of explaining everything.

[@BundyBearsShed]

You're very welcome!

[@XuanTrong-ew2hb]

​@@BundyBearsShedChào thầy thầy có thể cho biết hệ thống ben mf135 không lên thì khắc phục thế nào

[@malcolmfinlay6779]

Great videos Lance, I just finished fixing the same fuel pump on an international backhoe that would not inject, with help from this video I found the plungers in the head stuck from sitting too long, cleaned it all up and re-sealed, tested in the vice, injecting now, you beauty! I'll bolt it on next week and hopefully it fires up. I also have a siezed Ferguson TE20 that I need to rebuild so I'll be watching your videos on your fergie with keen interest. Great job your doing, not many people are rebuilding anything these days so this stuff is gold. Malcolm Finlay, Mount Isa

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Malcolm, I hope the pump works out for you, I reckon it will.

[@wesleybrown717]

I have a 2310 ford tractor with fiel leaking from the back and after watching your videos I'm going to tackle it myself.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Good luck!

[@wesleybrown717]

@BundyBearsShed i tackled it today and back on tractor . Finish it up tomorrow. So far so good. Pretty simple really.

[@Jfreeman-k4l]

Thank you for showing the hydraulic/high pressure side being cleaned and reassembled I have a Ford 555 that had stuck valves in the hydraulic part.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped.

[@robertgriz2500]

You're the man Lance. I picked up a Long 445 and have been going through the diesel system trying to get it running. The injection pump is a little backwards / different than the one you rebuilt, but 90% same components. Can't thank you enough for taking the time to share your trade, it's been an overwhelming educational experience. Thank you friend!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks, Im glad it helped.

[@skaraborgcraft]

I attempted a rebuild a few years back, and ended up buying a new pump. My new pump had just failed, so watched your video which covered some stuff i didnt see before. Mr furgy is back to singing bud-ha-bud-ha-bud-ha. I will also be rebuilding the old pump, now i know how to deal with it. Thanks for sharing.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad you finally got it sorted out.

[@skaraborgcraft]

@@BundyBearsShed Just an update. Tractor stopped running. Took the pump apart again, have to ask, have you ever seen a sheared rotor head shaft? What would cause that, it obviously siezed up.

[@johnambler3107]

G Day Lance, I’ve really enjoyed these videos on the pump overhaul.. I used to work as a truck mechanic years ago but never got to strip any fuel pumps, they were always sent to the fuel injection dealer for repair. These videos are great and I really appreciate the extra effort it must take in making them.

[@kenh3344]

Yes we had to take them to the pump and injection shops .

[@markgreen4434]

Thanks matey, I have a Perkins 4236 in a boat.Priced a new cav pump from perkins $2.500.full rebuild $1.200,seals only rebuild $600, one from china $600. Thanks to you I did full rebuild for $400. Runs like a top

[@BundyBearsShed]

Good news.

[@clearprop75r]

OUTSTANDING Lance. Followed along with my pump that had been sitting 13 years. now it works like a charm! $18 for the kit ! Beat the dickens out of $450 for a shop rebuild!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Well worth the effort

[@curtisdunham2074]

Thank you so much for showing the reassembly of the top cover, I've been trying to get the spring on with a pair of needle nose pliers and had not been successful. Now I know to connect the spring inside and then put the top on! Edit: I just finished this job on my AD4-203 Perkins motor, the only thing I would add is to make sure the stopper nipple on the bottom side is facing the motor block when you put back on. Mine was not and I could not get the pump to push fuel at all. Took the top back off and fixed the problem, also the spring should move like Bundy shows in the video, if it is not hooked up properly both will move freely from each other (the throttle and stopper) I had to use the hand pump to push fuel back into the injection pump, that is what the bleed screws are for, once I did this it was very easy to get the motor to fire and run again. Thank you so much to Bundy Bears Shed channel for this and his other videos. I love that he uses regular hand tools and explains everything so well. Would feel comfortable attempting about anything that this man has made a video about.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Curtis, Seems like you are on top of it .

[@chriscoopes4043]

Hello Lance, London calling again, well still somewhere in rural England actually - tractor country. You've still got it - the ability to pass on knowledge succinctly whilst keeping it interesting. Really enjoying your MF135 series - keep on videoing mate. Until next time ....

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Chris, Glad you enjoy it.

[@ArifArif-pv2sn]

Ll

[@bahramsedighi]

Thank you so much, it helped me to fix my leaking fuel pump specially from min 36 to 42 which explained how to test every parts are installed correctly. Appreciate your time and efforts and your descriptive video.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@paulricelli5520]

🔥🔥🔥Outstanding. Fixed my backhoe from your great videos. A billion thanks. 👍👍👍

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad to help

[@Stevie-P123]

Exactly what I was thinking. "Filter upside down." 😄👍 Great stuff. Appreciate it.!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad to help!

[@Stevie-P123]

@@BundyBearsShed in the process of rebuilding a similar pump for a colleague , your videos have helped no end and compelling to watch. Cheers.

[@jonny6122]

Thanks so much for this video! I rebuilt the CAV pump on my 1960 International B275 after watching and it works great. I especially like the bench test of the pump and shut down mechanism. I was concerned about it running away and that eased my worries.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Great to hear! Glad it helped.

[@philprickett3168]

Hi Lance. Thank you for a great instructional vid. I picked up a kit from your site and with the help of your instructions was able to fit up the pump. Looks great atm. Thanks again. Phil

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@user-wo7rz3yn4o]

Thanks to videos like this one I was able to tackle my pump overhaul. Not without problems however but I do think I learned something that might be helpful to others as well. I believe I had a serious air lock after disassembly and just could not get it to pressurize fuel at all. I disassembled again and filled the fuel passages in the rotor shaft with wd-40 and then proceeded with suggested procedures. Right away I got fuel spurts when turned over by hand for the first time.

[@user-wo7rz3yn4o]

I now got the engine going but after running for 5-10 minutes it wants to race to 2000 rpm. I haven't allowed it to run like that but for a moment at a time. For the first 5-10 minutes the low idle was smooth but about 150 rpm lower than it should be. What the heck now?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Sticky metering valve possibly.

[@user-wo7rz3yn4o]

@@BundyBearsShed that is what I would expect it to act like if the needle valve is at fault. The needle valve operated flawlessly the several times I had it apart and back together, however I guess anything is possible. I was wondering if the auto advance mechanism can cause such issues?

[@dustinkeith7641]

Thanks for the videos, I got my injector pump back running on my NH L783 thanks to you.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Good news right there.

[@rodneyyeomans5632]

another awesome video Lance ,thanks so much for all the information much appreciated

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Rodney.

[@xeroxene]

47:15 The fibre washer I got in the seal kit didn't fit at all, (too small ID) and ended up splitting. Can I just use any fibre washer the same size? Or is it made out of something special?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Any washer will do.

[@poulgammelgaard8868]

Another great video. Excellent filmed and explained. Thank you from Denmark.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Poul.

[@duncanrose3891]

Great video Lance. Keep up the good work 👍

[@CS_247]

Just done mine with your help, she runs like a top now! Thanks mate! Off to the pub with some of me savings, we'll have a Bundies for you! 👍🏼

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad I could help, have a beer or 10 for me, lol.

[@vtbgiraud]

Thanks Lance, I owe you a beer or three, mate. Only problem I had is that my pump, MF50A backhoe, is reverse rotation to yours. Had to pull HP pump apart to free small pistons and put roller in backwards, realized this at 3AM lying in bed. corrected this and runs like a charm. If I never get back downunder, I will have to look you up, but Queensland is too bloody hot for me. Vic, Canada

[@BundyBearsShed]

Sounds good, i do the think in bed thing too.

[@patmowatt2130]

I've just had one of these start leaking on my 1985 Universal UTB 640 tractor. I'm in Canada- wish you lived a little closer and I'd gladly pay you to rebuild it! Still, great video, thanks for the demonstration.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Pat, They are not that hard to do but everyone has different comfort levels with this sort of thein.

[@patmowatt2130]

@@BundyBearsShed After watching your video, I had a closer look at mine and saw that there were two leaks, one at the lower bleed screw which I fixed with a copper ring (didn't have a steel one). The other leak is at the top of the throttle shaft and this is the bad one- it appears that the shaft tunnel itself might be worn badly enough that the o-rings below might not seal it when replaced. So I managed to find a rebuild kit on ebay that comes with the top cover, and thanks to your video, I know I can try the repair without removing the pump from the tractor. The pump itself works fine, so I'm not going to go any deeper than that. I don't know if you guys have many of these UTB tractors in Australia (they are a Fiat clone, as are White and Long), but I'd love to see any videos you might have dealing with them. Again, thanks for the great work.

[@robertmintz63]

In vid MF Restoration #14 Dismantling injection pump , at time 46:07 , the little notch in the black plate is on the RIGHT side of the line on the part that is under it , but l cant see any letters next to it . In this vid you put the notch to the left of that line ! (Time 16:55)WHAT will this do to the fuel quantity ? Add more? Or less? What is the rule to add more fuel , move in direction of rotation , or against ?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Adjust to give the rollers more travel and that gives more fuel.

[@carlcarlson180]

My big problem was the crap in my tank. After I replaced the tank problem fixed. Fuel filters could not keep crap out of pump. Hope this helps

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Carl.

[@robertmintz63]

I could watch your vids just to hear the good country music you play ! And thanks for not playing it during the instructions , as I have seen some doing .

[@BundyBearsShed]

Im too busy talking and dropping things, lol.

[@OlaGbolahan]

​ @Bundy Bears Shed Will do. Thank you! On another note I did the breakdown and full assembly but fuel was just barely dribbling out (no pressure) when spinning pump. So pulled the pump apart again and found that those two metal cylinders inside that hub were seized up. So forced them out and cleaned them so they move free-er. Then reassembled, but still no fuel pressure. Is there something else that can be the issue? Do I need to try blowing air through the tiny hole that the fuel flows into the hub through? Any other suggested next steps?

[@BundyBearsShed]

some times it ia hard to get the air out but bleeding on the tractor will get it done, I have even forced air through to pressurise the pump a bit. If it wont start start with a petrol rag or ether and once going the come good straight away.

[@OlaGbolahan]

@@BundyBearsShed so it wouldn't be something else stuck inside. You believe it's air in the pump? Thank you again for your help and great videos.

[@bubulegros01]

Very good and better information for my pump, thank you

[@BundyBearsShed]

You are welcome

[@denniskennedy6579]

Really good instructions, put out in layman's terms.( simple)

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@terrysmith4651]

Thank You so much for making this video I had the inlet valves all out of sequence.....you saved me $$$$

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it helped

[@sibusisoshumane8973]

G day Lance, thanks very much for the training. Could you please explain the 20 | 24 ° 1. Are these degrees printed on the back of the flywheel? 2. Lastly does all messy ferguson tractors have the plug where you see these timing degrees (e.g. 20|24)?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes on the flywheel and most early Perkins engines do of this era.

[@joevanbommel9490]

I find putting the regulator valve together before installing cover on pump much easier. Everything slides in horizontally. Good video . Thanks.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes I do that at times now as well.

[@harristone5]

At 47:18 i dont have this sealing ring on my injection pump on a massey ferguson 245. Does it possible? Or the reason why my tractor is hard to start?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes possibly it is leaking past and not getting pressure into the pump correctly.

[@harristone5]

@@BundyBearsShed i will get a reduild kit. Thanks

[@Alan-bg3iv]

I ordered the end cap, with the steel insert, the original on was aluminum no steel insert, and was really rough looking, could this cause low fuel pressure, I have no pressure coming from the pump to the injectors, the fuel just drips out of the lines. I would think it should spray somewhat hard.

[@BundyBearsShed]

That may cause low pressure of the inlet only probably not your problem.

[@billmacdonald1533]

Re-installed the pump today. Starts and runs like a champ and no leaks!! Used the new end cap too. I didn't get yours because you don't ship to Canada; you should fix that :) Just so you know, I generally do things two or three times... good practice, I guess. Again, thanks for the videos Lance. I never would have tackled this job without them. My 135 is a '67 six speed as well, so I'm always watching your videos.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Great to hear!

[@ElementofKindness]

This definitely gives me the confidence to give a go at it, and dig into my pump. Guessing either that little screen, or more likely, stuck pistons, from the pump sitting for nearly three years while I was rebuilding the engine.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Stuck pistons is common but easy to remedy.

[@dizzyy1234]

At around 24:00 you assemble the governor arm onto the shaft. You mention to rotate so that you can see 2 flat spots.. After assembling my pump, I remember not doing this. What would happen if the arm doesnt sit properly on the flat spots ?

[@BundyBearsShed]

I dont think it would fit together properly.

[@dizzyy1234]

@@BundyBearsShed Ok. It does though. Can start the engine also. Also i recall when i was putting it back together having lined up the shaft in the exact same position as when i took it off the engine. So if that bushing rotates with the shaft, it would be in the right position Oh and thank you for this great video, which saved me around $980 USD

[@hansjurgenschwartz3578]

Ha, after your reassembly you adjusted the mark to the left flange. Glad to see at 20.55. 😜👍

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes I get busy filming and pick up things when watching the first filming and fix things. Filming the process makes a couple of hour job into an all dayer.

[@xeroxene]

Phew! I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed this. I had to go back to the previous episode and double check. Nicely spotted.

[@incubatork]

for putting springs and stuff down into deep holes i have often had to put the springs onto a thin long screwdriver, put the screwdeiver in the hole then drop the spring in, they can only go in to place as the screwdriver shaft acts as a guide.

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Derek, Yes I have done the same but I need to de magnetize them at the moment. I think the magnetic parts trays transfer some of their magnetism when a screw driver rests on them.

[@charleshart6992]

Another great video - I thought you put the spring in the wrong hole, but you couldn't hear me talking to the screen LOL.

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day Charles, The missus says I dont listen, lol. , I did have it wrong and I hadnt realised until I was editing the video but it is fixed now. Next time I wont draw the pivot as I mistook it for a hole.

[@incubatork]

Another great tutorial Lance, now to wait to test and see if you did it right, 😂😂😂

[@BundyBearsShed]

Have faith, lol.

[@steveo3037]

Hi Lance ,on your drawing on the lever, the spring is in the hole closest the shaft, not the middle one

[@ccga3359]

Steve is correct, also I don't recall you tightening down the cover studs and locking tabs for them.

[@georgehunter3187]

Yup, eagle eyes!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Well spotted, I did and I hadnt realised until I was editing the video but it is fixed now. Next time I wont draw the pivot as I mistook it for a hole.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I did do the tabe and one gave me some strife so I shortened the video around there as I was fiddling a bit too much.

[@Rain2bird]

Great video but you missed on approx. 20 minutes the alignement of the top bracket (clip) with the lower one. You can see on the video that the rollers are not fitted properly. But any way very big help for these pumps

[@BundyBearsShed]

When videoing I do some things a few times trying to keep focus etc. Pump runs great on the 135.

[@rainermuehlberger6391]

what a great video...it is tremendous helpful...bought an MF65 which is now over 60 years old...the Pump was filled with ugly slimeallover...it could not work anymore. Now I have 2 questions on reassembly: 1. where does that little steel ball fit to? 2. the carrier for the pump blades ( with that crosswise slots in it) turned loose and off...if I fit back an turn to screw on it tightens....but too much...so much that the whole turning shaft thightens and locks the turning motion...what do I need to do to avoid locking the nice turning? thanks for your comments. best regards Rainer from Germany/ Lake of Constance

[@BundyBearsShed]

Little ball goes into the advance underneath if it has one, they are often not needed. The end plate with the vanes, you may need to sand the vales down a little to give clearance on the flat edges.

[@rainermuehlberger6391]

@@BundyBearsShed thank you a Lot...for your great Video and your helpful comments...my MF65 runs now very well...thank you so much 😊

[@ingvarmagnusson5993]

Thank you for this istructive video, it realy helpt me out,since I´m haveing a -71 135 under restauration, so once againe, thanks a lot!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Glad it could help.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

Also I don't understand where the "shuttle" and the "plunger" is, and the rollers are on the top of the pump correct?, I really don't know much about this tractor that I'm working on. it is a 1992 MF 30 industrial backhoe and loader, we thought it was a 65 model, it has a 4 cylinder engine. hasnt ran since 2005. Also the metering valve was cleaned when I rebuilt the injector pump. Is there any chance of the end cap valve bad, it was pretty rough and pitted where the veins run against.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Go th the videos 14 and 15 again I explain it all in there.

[@tarasbulba2109]

Hi. I have disassembled, cleaned internally, put toric joints, retainers, vanes and all new end plate. I have mounted it again without problems, but by turning it manually to prime it with diesel and see if it works, I notice that it goes a little hard and goes like jerks. Can it be normal?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes it is as the rollers come up to the cam to push the plunger in it feels notchy .

[@hirenyadav6288]

CAV very best pump Old is gold

[@BundyBearsShed]

Popular pumps.

[@mikaellarsson5109]

Thanks for the video!! The information was a great help Greetings from Sweden 👌

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thanks Mikael.

[@mickyoungs4610]

Hi Lance, .MFtractor ran out of fuel, and a load of crap entered into pump. Cleand all systems out, new lift pump, new filter, had end of pump cleaned rotor blades, nice and free.Had top of pump checked everything,nothing wrong, but still no delivery out of pump when we try to start tractor, Any ideas regards Mick over in England.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Check the filter under the inlet fitting and pop the top off and see if the metering valve is still free.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

Oh BTW my original end cap has the pin on the left side and my new one has it on the right side, that means the vane ring would be 180 degrees out, so will that make a difference?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes it can be changed over.

[@padraicmcgowan8772]

Thanks i was messing with a pump off a wee 35x all day and getting nowhere till I watched your video now shes sucking diesel i owe you a pint

[@BundyBearsShed]

Im looking forward to that.

[@mattirwin440]

Thanks for video I resealed my 1080 Massy. After I put pump back on tractor it is running higher RPM at idle and throttling up . Took top back off to check spring location was in same holes came out of checked governor looks like in flats. Any suggestion what i did wrong. I turned throttle set screws for know not to run to fast and achieve low idle speed.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Usually it is the springs or the hook rod inside not hooked up correctly.

[@mattirwin440]

@@BundyBearsShed thanks will take top back off and check it out you make it look so easy on video.

[@OlaGbolahan]

Dont think my seal kit came with the fiber washer you put on the plunger. Is it critical? Or do I need to get a new seal kit?

[@BundyBearsShed]

The gasket is just paper thin could you possibly make one?

[@OlaGbolahan]

@@BundyBearsShed Will do. Thank you! On another note I did the breakdown and full assembly but fuel was just barely dribbling out (no pressure) when spinning pump. So pulled the pump apart again and found that those two metal cylinders inside that hub were seized up. So forced them out and cleaned them so they move free-er. Then reassembled, but still no fuel pressure. Is there something else that can be the issue? Do I need to try blowing air through the tiny hole that the fuel flows into the hub through? Any other suggested next steps?

[@marcpottle2988]

Hi Lance, Surely appreciate your videos. Have a strong mechanical aptitude and have now disassembled and reassembled this pump 5 times without getting pressure enough to squirt through the banjo bolt valves. Pushed a pin punch into each banjo bolt and the spring pressure is quite stout but the piston moves fine. Have installed new veins, rotor, cover (with steel insert) and took the entire head apart, spraying carburetor cleaner through all the tiny holes noting the escape. Every printed diagram has been gone through and each component is in the correct order. NO PRESSURE! Will need pressure to open the injectors as well. Is there some end play in the head that I am missing? ...... Now on some foot notes for you and the mass crowd: The drive for the veins is right hand thread (lefty loosy) counter clockwise loose..... 2nd: The part that regulates the fuel amount (where the two screws go in to hold the rollers and all that) can only go on one way. The master daug lines up even if it is flipped over, BUT the two bolt holes are NOT 180 degrees apart and it will not bolt up. Just for those who lost track of 'witness' marks. This pump is very simple and I still can't get pressure. Now without the banjo bolts it squirts fine, as soon as I put it together it just oozes out! I just cant imagine what it could be. I adjusted the fuel amount wide open, still no pressure. Is there a check valve I'm missing? Ford 555 Backhoe. This pump has been taken apart previously by some others and returned to my poor neighbor in not so good condition. I am now making an attempt to repair it. Everything in your video is in that pump. Everything in the diagram is in that pump! I put straight banjo bolts (without valves) and there is not enough pressure to open the injectors Ie; 120 to 200 psi is needed before they will spray! Put an adapter in a drill and spun the pump to no avail! Yes, the stopper and metering valve are correct. Governor spring is in correct #7 by the chart. ..........HELP! .....................PLEASE

[@BundyBearsShed]

When testing check your inlet pressure is good as some 3 cylinders had no lift pump. It is also possible the head is just worn out, they did wear over time and hard starting is a sign of a worn head. It seems like you are onto the small things ok but check the plungers are not worn. The plungers are what builds the pressure but if that is getting lost somewhere you need to find that.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

I have a MF 200 Massey Ferguson model 65 tractor. I previously watched this video and went through my CAV injector pump step by step with you, although i didn't mess with the rollers. so basically where do i get a complete rebuild kit, cam ring, and everything i need to go back through it again. I'm not getting fuel up to the injectors. i also replaced all the fuel filters and done a oil change on it. I took on this job on the tractor to help out a friend, the tractor was torn apart by someone else and i was able to get it back together, it only runs on starting fluid. it will not run without using starting fluid. i am thinking i have a timing issue, i get fuel to the injection pump but it is not pushing fuel up to the injectors. Do you have any suggestions for me Bundy??

[@BundyBearsShed]

Over time the plungers under the rollers can get gummed up and not move so I would check them as the same pair of rollers are used for each cylinder. also check the metering valve is very free and the little shuttle valve in the end plate under the inlet pipe is free to move under its own weight.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

I don't understand where the shuttle and the rollers valve is, I really don't know much about this tractor I'm working on. Also the metering valve was cleaned when I rebuilt the injector pump. Is there any chance of the valve at the end of the injector pump bad, it was pretty rough and pitted where the veins run against.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

I ordered the end cap, with the steel insert, the original on was aluminum no steel insert, and was really rough looking, could this cause low fuel pressure, I have no pressure coming from the pump to the injectors, the fuel just drips out of the lines. I would think it should spray somewhat hard.

[@Alan-bg3iv]

Also the Massey Ferguson Tractor is a 1992, backhoe and front loader, with a 4 cylinder engine. It hasn't ran since 2005. We found the engine cover and it is not a MF 65 it has MF 30 on it. SER# 9A 65 77

[@muratcetin85]

@Bundy Bears Shed Good Morning.Thank you also in the comment.As you mentioned, idling goes back to normal when I hold cold water on the pump element.What exactly is the procedure we need to do?Can it be due to the X blades in the inner part?Can I repair myself.Respects.

[@BundyBearsShed]

No the pump will need to be replaced or the head of the pump at least.

[@dtnicholls1]

Hey mate, don't know if you caught it but that little line next to the rollers lined up on the other side of the gap in the retaining plate when you were pulling it apart.

[@BundyBearsShed]

That is just a filming thing, the tractor is up and running well. to film things there is a few takes at times.

[@billmacdonald1533]

Hello again. I studied the issue further and discovered that it wasn't the steel insert that was too thick. It was that the machined slot in the end cap that the insert fits into had a high spot in the middle. The insert would teeter back and forth from the center in all quadrants. I figured that the high spot must have been pushing the insert into the shaft. So, I got the dremmel and sanded down the center of the slot making the surface as level as I could. Now the insert fits much better and is flush with the outer rim of the slot. I was careful not to touch the outer part of the surface so the insert sits in level. I installed the end cap again and the pump turns freely. So, as long as the newly sanded surface doesn't affect the fuel flow, I should be golden. What do you think?

[@BundyBearsShed]

It should be ok I would thing

[@rpalaniz]

Thank you for your time sir!! great Video!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Thankyou, I hope it was of some help.

[@rolandspirig5153]

Great I am looking for my ts3 which has much the same pump mine started to Rev up and then go back to set reves , is this the governor sticking Regards from on the water. Ps the ts3 is in the boat. And I now don't have any timing marks is their a simple way to get No1 to TDC ?

[@JacksonCabalerro]

Hello I need help for my DPA CAV pump ! My tractor is very hard to start, it seems that there is low pressure at startup. What do you think about this problem ? Which parts should I change to recover start pressure ? Thanks

[@BundyBearsShed]

Possibly a worn vane pump in the end housing or possibly head wear it is hard to say but the vanes in the pump are cheap.

[@kenh3344]

I suppose you got it going now, but sometimes can be the lift pump. Diaphragm. Or new lift pump needed.

[@averillcook1545]

hello I have a A3-152 motor that runs great but I cannot get it to run at high RPM . the motor came off a generator . throttle linkage is good but it only runs at a fixed speed and i cannot get it to rev up. It has a apparatus that can have a ground and a positive hooked to it but after i took it off there does not seem to have any movement when I energize it with a ground and hot lead Any thoughts would be helpful thanks

[@BundyBearsShed]

The throttle lever had a manual stop on the outside, it is usually adjustable by backing the screws out. That may be worth a go. The apparatus you speak of may be a watch dog solenoid that shuts the engine down if there is a problem when it was on the generator. Generators have fixed revs often to keep the supply even.

[@averillcook1545]

@@BundyBearsShed yes understood ... I tried backing off the screw you talk about with no luck.. thinking I need to take the pump off and replace it with the one that was on the original motor. your response is much appreciated thank you

[@averillcook1545]

Changed the pump Fixed the problem Thank you

[@Ariel1526]

Hi, thanks for the clip! I did as you showed, I mounted the pump to the tractor (Ford 3610, year 1982), but the tractor does not move :( If I put some carburetor spray in the air filter, the tractor starts and everything is fine, that is, the pump works, but to start, the tractor fails to start. What did I do wrong?

[@BundyBearsShed]

It sounds like the pump head is worn

[@Ariel1526]

@@BundyBearsShed what can we do? Is the pump head the part that connects to the timing wheel or to the auxiliary pump? But why is the difficulty only in driving? After the paddle it works great.

[@ShainAndrews]

Was going to make this comment on your disassembly, but thought it would make more sense here. 8:10 Instead of marking the housing on back side of the circle clip make your scribe on the other side. 10:08 Scribe a line on the the square end of the clip where your finger is. Start the scribe on the clip face, and continue onto the housing. It will be more accurate, and you can see it while reassembling.

[@robertmintz63]

In this video you line up the edge of the little notch in the black plate with the line on the housing of the roller housing, but in the 2 part video disassembly / reassemble you have that little notch centered on the line. The difference would be the amount of fuel delivery, ? Or is there another reason ? Also unless l am mistaken your prognosis of which way to move this black plate for more fuel , disagrees with the other video I am glad to see you using a rag between pliers & top plate. That wee line around the back you talk about , is it not around about where you said the timing mark (G) should be ?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Not the edge of the notch the letter on the head.

[@williamjindra6652]

My timing mark on the pump is about a quarter of an inch up from the mark on the keys I Tractor starts like a dream runs like a dream but the thing is leaking so I just got my sparex kit should i leave it where it is also the timing on the fly wheel I see no marks should I just scribe a mark there for reference

[@BundyBearsShed]

Scribe for reference some times the circlip was not lined up.

[@catalinflorin1417]

Hi Lance. Im having trouble with a pump like this ( it s a Romanian copy made under lIcense). My question : the metal ring at the back of the pump in wich the vanes rotate (transfer pump) , has any orientation? Because i don t have a witness mark on it and it seem to be the same if i put it either way.. Thanks!

[@BundyBearsShed]

The roll pin in the rear cover should tell you which way it went.

[@catalinflorin1417]

@@BundyBearsShed Thank you! It seems that the metal ring has no orientation. It goes either face.

[@blueeyedfriend9886]

On your video MF135 Restoration #14 Dismantling the Injection Pump at 14:27 the spring was in the first hole from the shaft. At 32:20 in this video, on your drawing I believe you confused the circle for the shaft as one of the holes the spring goes in. I'm sure you've figured that out by now, as I'm very late to this party. Thanks for the videos!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes you are correct but I mentioned it in the description. I changed it when I noticed it in editing and the tractor runs well.

[@giemme4492]

Hi Lance, watching and watching again these videos to take confidence on this resealing I am planning to do on my CAV DPA. So, my CAV DPA pump has the automatic adjacent device at the bottom. Since this device has a round headed pin screwed on the cam rings that makes it rotate, I guess I won’t find any shadow mark on the cam the cross check it lines properly to the squared circlip end. Isn’t it? Thanks again for your instructive videos!!!

[@BundyBearsShed]

No you cant really go wrong with these.

[@giemme4492]

@@BundyBearsShed I see, my concern is that, being my cam ring rotated by the autoadvance device, it misses the shadow mark of the circlip as it is not stationary against it. Thank you a lot Lance!

[@waynegotthardt3233]

I caught that too Should be in the hole closest to the pivot. "Just can't get good help these days" LOL

[@BundyBearsShed]

Nup Im thinking of sacking myself, lol.

[@randysweat8470]

On a cav pump can you remove the back iend without removine the pump from the motor ?Mine is leaking where the the vane end goes into the main body.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes you can but they are usually easy to remove and replace.

[@michaellyons7993]

Hi Lance, great work, very helpful videos, I am currently resealing my pump on a mf 65, as it was leaking around the head, I also have a erratic idle, is there anything I can look out for while I have it stripped down, I had hoped someone had placed the governor spring was in the wrong position, but not so, also have a heavy diesel knock on acceleration

[@BundyBearsShed]

No not that I can send you to. Look at my web site www.queenslandtractorspares.com.au on the technical tab there is a free pump manual download that might help you .

[@Alan-bg3iv]

What happens if the end cap has the pin on the other side, my pin is on the letter A on my old end cap and the new one is on the letter C.?

[@BundyBearsShed]

The pin is to hold the outer and if the pump turns one way it is on one side and if it turns the other the pin will be on a different side.

[@BuckHunterNb]

Can you put a mf 135 perkins diesel injection pump onto a 35X as long as the governor spring holes are changed to match the spec of the 35X which is number 2. Middle hole on lever and top hole on governor plate? Sparex has the same hydraulic head part number as replacement for the A3.152 and the AD3.152. Makes me wonder if the pumps are interchangeable with governor spring hole changes. I have a new pump for the MF 135 that I could use on my 1964 35X. Perkins manual says to go with 22 degrees BTDC for pump LW58/600/2/2390 for A3.152 diesel another manual says to use 20 degrees BTDC for pump 3230010 which is my old pump on my 1964X. But when I checked the timing it was installed at 24 degrees (middle line on the flywheel in the inspection hole and the E was lined up on the pump with the flat edge of the circlip.. Now I'm confused as the timing cover is still on and I cannot see if the pump drive gear is lined up with the big idler wheel. To make matters worse the scribe line on the pump flange and timing case do not exist but the pump is mounted dead centre of the slots on the flange. 24 degrees for my pump seems high. Any input is much appreciated. Thanks and wicked good video.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I would fit the pump no worries, and not change the spring holes , leave them alone. Set timing at 22 deg and see how it runs, the pump may have been fitted by someone that didnt know to check the timing.

[@BuckHunterNb]

The new pump has the circlip in backwards. The rounded end is on top and the flat square end on the bottom. My timing case has no scribe mark to line up and the pump has one 1/4 inch down from centre of the point on the flange. I took the timing cover off and all the gears line up as per the dots and line for TDC on compression stroke for piston 1 and pulley keyway at 12 o'clock. So the timing is on. The pump is brand new old stock from the eighties I can't get fuel up to the injector pipes when whirl6the engine after intensively bleeding the air before hand.

[@williamjindra6652]

Do the metal washers pump head come with the kit on the banjo fitting ?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes there would be 12 as the kit does right up to the 6 cylinder pumps.

[@lonnieblackwell9215]

Lance, your spring is in the wrong hole. It was the one closest to the pivot hole. Good video very informative

[@BundyBearsShed]

You are correct I noticed it while editing and fixed it I also put a note in the description.

[@billmacdonald1533]

Not so golden now. Installed the pump on the tractor and it won't start. It's getting fuel at the injectors. I even put the old end cap back on and still won't start; turns over good but not even trying to start. I can't see how I could have messed up the timing. I've had the pump off before for painting and started right up on install. BTW- I didn't mess with the insides of the pump at all except resealing. Any ideas?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Is the metering valve working. I have had the odd one that takes a lot of bleeding but when you get them running they are fine.

[@adrianheis8355]

Hola una consulta que pasa si la bomba inyectora tiene mucha presión

[@BundyBearsShed]

They cant have too much pressure.

[@xeroxene]

Hi Lance, regarding the Incredibly Important Circlip... What does it actually do? Is it just a timing reference mark or does it have a physical function?

[@BundyBearsShed]

The circlip gives the pump head a solid shoulder to go up against, and as a timing reference point. There is a small shoulder in the housing for the circlip to go up against.

[@peterspong]

Ace video! Thank you. I’ve just finished and put it all back on a MF 148. Idles perfectly but when i advance the throttle the revs only increase slightly and she begins to hunt badly. Where’ve I gone wrong?!🤦‍♂️

[@BundyBearsShed]

Springs under the top cover in the wrong place.

[@HZ--ic6hn]

Wsk poznan spare parts. I used delphi parts for repairing dpa pump for 4-248 engine. But Your pump needs some calibrations. Such as maximum minimum fuel consumption or min max governor lever distance. Also also also You should add a spring to connect stop lever and throttle lever

[@BundyBearsShed]

If you keep the same setting it is all good to go.

[@justdoinstuff]

Hi Lance, should turning the pump by hand generate enough pressure to force fuel through a banjo fitting that has a valve in it?

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes but they do get harder to turn for sure.

[@justdoinstuff]

Your videos made this project possible for me to do. Thank you! When turning by hand, fuel ejects from the 3 ports fine with no fittings but when I add the 2 valved banjo fittings no fuel comes out of these but the nonvalved fitting continues to eject fuel. Any thoughts?

[@chriswilkins2643]

Does the vane pump metal ring wear out of round, i run verniers over mine and its not round,, 0,5 mm in one spot OR is this how they are made I have put a kit thru it and still can not get it to squirt anyway near the volume as in this video Thanks

[@BundyBearsShed]

It needs to be out of round for the vanes to do their job of presurising the fuel. Sounds like it is fine just dont put it in backwards to what it was.

[@chriswilkins2643]

@@BundyBearsShed Thanks for that .. I have a new one coming soon with new vanes ,,The old one is pitted Thanks again i will look out for the witness mark on the old one

[@twb605]

So the reason I removed my injection pump is due to no fuel at the injectors regardless of bleeding attempts. I think I have found the problem. The pumping plungers were not at all free like yours were. They were not frozen solid and did not look like moisture corrosion, but required a bit of force to push them out of the pump bore. The plungers must be very hard material, but they look to have a bit of scaring. The pump bore does not looked scared. When you encounter this, do you buff the plungers smooth and if so how do you hold the small plungers while buffing? Thank you.

[@BundyBearsShed]

I polish them with 1200 paper or just on a wire brush gently. Seems to work.

[@twb605]

I gave it my best. After bleeding it started with aid of ether (never necessary before). I noted it would reduce rpms but not throttle down to normal idle. I shut it off after 5 minutes and has not started again. If there was a you near me I would remove and ask you to go through it. Your videos are very good but your skill is hard to replicate sir.

[@robertmintz63]

This comment belongs in # 14 but my wife has gone to bed maybe she can fix it tomorrow The existing line on the housing at time 41:10 looks like it is in line with the bottom corner of the 45* angle of the end of the sur-clip, not the long strait edge of the end of the sur-clip, ! However you scribed a new line, . Which is the normal way to mark it ? When I look in the window of my pump the housing mark is in line with the lower corner of the 45* angle ! IS it possible my sur-clip is to high , & what difference does it make ??

[@BundyBearsShed]

ok lol. I just put a mark to let me know where the circlip goes, nothing more.

[@daveklooster4905]

Lance, I believe you put the spring into the wrong hole on the lever. It came out of the hole closest to the shaft, not the middle one.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Well spotted, I did and I hadnt realised until I was editing the video but it is fixed now. Next time I wont draw the pivot as I mistook it for a hole.

[@danaharsh7592]

A couple questions. I'm rebuilding my CAV injection pump off of my MF 150. I cleaned up the seal surface of the drive hub and it appears as though the seal has worn a groove on the hub. Its deep enough to catch your fingernail. I assume you would recommend replacing the hub? The reason for the rebuild was fuel leaking into the crankcase/oil pan. I got the same Sparex rebuild kit you are using...a lot of left over o-rings, copper washers and gaskets etc correct? Thanks for any help you can offer. I watched videos #14 and 15.

[@BundyBearsShed]

You can polish the seal groove and take all sharp edges away and the new seal will seal on it ok. Yes there will be plenty of left overs.

[@danaharsh7592]

@@BundyBearsShed I really, really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. I went ahead and put a new end cap with the steel insert as mine was worn. As a side note my local Massie dealer couldn't and/or wouldn't look up the part number for the cap saying they didn't want me messing with the pump! So I thumbed my nose at them, ordered one online and fixed it with your excellent instruction. Thanks again!

[@BundyBearsShed]

@@danaharsh7592 Great work, very satisfying doing your own repairs.

[@danaharsh7592]

@@BundyBearsShed So I got the injection pump rebuilt and put back on the tractor. Got it bled and it fired up. However it just runs wild. The throttle control has no effect and the only way to control the speed is with the shut off cable. I was very careful to draw a picture to note where the spring attaches to the inside assembly and reassembled it by the drawing. I feel like the linkages inside that top cover aren't interacting as they should. I think in the reassembly video you said moving one lever should have an effect on the other and mine do not. I'm sure you are quite busy but any help you can offer would be appreciated.

[@BundyBearsShed]

@@danaharsh7592 Im thinking the spring is in the wrong place as that makes them run fast or slow

[@Alan-bg3iv]

what happens if the cam ring is installed backwards?

[@BundyBearsShed]

There is a directional arrow, visit video 14 and 15.

[@benbartyzel2388]

Hi Lance, on my injection pump the three bolts, the center bolt, and pin that connect the timing gear to the pump all fell out - don't ask me how, it's never been disassembled before. I can source the three bolts (5/16 x 3/4 NF) and the larger center bolt is still there, but what size is the alignment pin (dowel) that goes into the drive gear? Thanks!

[@BundyBearsShed]

I cant say off hand as I dont have a pump here but 1/4" I would think.

[@benbartyzel2388]

Thanks Lance. It looked like about 1/4" but I thought it might be some odd size. I'll get a couple in and see if they work. Have you ever seen all the bolts back out like that? I was able to retrieve most of the hardware as all of the bolts were caught in between the pulley and cover, only one was broken, the dowel and washers are likely at the bottom of the oil pan - hope they stay there...

[@Milan.1511]

Greetings from Serbia!

[@BundyBearsShed]

G Day MilanG

[@Milan.1511]

@@BundyBearsShed Mr. Lance, is this pump needed Test Bench, if everything gets back to your place like you did?

[@billcoty9124]

I'm about to tackle a 3600 ford with a CAV pump. I assume it's basically the same. I had someone put the shaft seal in it a few years ago and it's had a terrible lope till it's at half throttle. Is it possible he didn't align the spring in the proper whole when he put the top cap back on the pump? Any advise is appreciated. Thanks.

[@BundyBearsShed]

Yes it could be, just start from scratch and it will probably come good.

[@billcoty9124]

@@BundyBearsShed How will I know what hole to put it in if it's wrong?

[@stevekolu9165]

My 35 the injection pump came loose, I drove it a quarter of a mile turned it off. It was making a clicking noise. After fighting the pump up the engine hardly turns over. I checked the oil there was a little on the end of the oil dipstick. While turning it over I heard a clunck sound. Thinking I need to take it apart. timing cover and pump to see what is going on. Any suggestions?

[@BundyBearsShed]

I would drop the sump and see what has gone wrong. hard to say.