MGB Engine Oil and Filter Change Procedure with Step by Step Instructions

Please consider joining the channel for more racing and DIY videos: / @davidrussellwilks
A step by step guide to changing the oil and filter in an MGB. It also covers making sure you have oil pressure before starting the car for the first time. In my car I use a 20/50W fully synthetic oil, the Castrol classic 20/50W is a great choice for road cars. Both are available from Opie Oils www.opieoils.co.uk/
Any questions are always welcome
There are a few points that viewers have mentioned I would like to add:
When the old oil filter is removed, sometimes the oil seal adheres to the filter adapter and interferes with the proper sealing of the new oil filter, once installed. One should check to make sure the old circular oil seal is removed from the filter adapter otherwise the new filter will not seal.
The filter in my car is the hanging type which is the less common type. The inverted type cannot be pre-filled before fitting.
With the method used in my video old oil will remain in the oil cooler, not really a problem if you are changing the oil regularly, but if you have a car that's been sat a long time it would be worth removing the oil cooler to drain and clean it.

[@gostowski]

Great advice about spinning the engine to check the pressure. One suggestion is after loosening the drain plug, remove the ratchet but use the socket and extension to finish turning the plug rather than your hand. If you are lucky the plug will remain in the socket and can be retrieved without getting oil on your hand. A magnetic socket for this purpose would be great if someone sold such an item.

[@bmill3113]

That's quite a tidy MGB you have there, mate!

[@roblockwood9068]

David - your mgb videos are top rate. Not only do you operate in an uncluttered and clean environment but your videos are clear, concise, step by step and very, very helpful. "Repairing", improving and modifying my 71 MGB GT (Down Under) has been made that much easier by your videos so far. I hope there are more to come.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks Rob, delighted to hear that you are enjoying the videos, I certainly hope to be making more in 2021

[@neilshovlin9888]

The magnetic plug and advancing the new oil in the system without starting the car... All new info for me... First year owning and working on a '73 B, really appreciate your vids...

[@davidrussellwilks]

I do feel that spinning the engine over to get oil pressure is a good idea, more so with a new build but I think it's a good habit to have. The magnetic drain plugs are a great way of keeping an eye on general engine health.

[@PhilSavageHDCCHUCC]

Thank-you for this. I really appreciate step-by-step guides and with explanations of pitfalls/other things to look out for, so this is spot on. Subscribed and notifications set for other videos to come :) Like a video Haynes manual! Lovely looking car too!

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your message Philip, delighted to hear that you found the video useful and thank you for subscribing to the channel. I'm hoping to make a few more videos as I get the car ready for the race season.

[@crouger92]

I've just bought an MGB and these videos are an excellent resource for the novice mechanic, really well produced and everything clearly explained. Please do keep them up!

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your kind message, it's always great to hear that someone finds the videos useful.

[@mikeredmond7977]

Great videos!! I appreciate how concise all your step by step procedures are and have given me a lot of inspiration to do the work myself! Cheers!!

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your message Mike, delighted to hear that you find the videos useful

[@garynaylor4993]

Hi David, Many thanks for posting this. I appreciate your methodical approach to this task.

[@davidrussellwilks]

You are very welcome

[@bobdefalco]

About to garage mine for winter in Ohio - always find a great tip and learn something new from you, even on something that most think is basic. And that engine sounds fantastic!

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your message Bob, I'll be getting my car ready for winter over the next few weeks, I might try and make a video to cover that too! Delighted to hear that you picked up something from the video.

[@GH-rr7tk]

Nice work David. Really enjoying these, would also be great to get an overview of the car and some of the modifications you’ve made.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your message, delighted to hear that you enjoy the videos, don't forget to subscribe to the channel if you haven't already. The car was featured on British race car in 2014, it has changed a little since then but you will get a fair idea of it www.britishracecar.com/DavidRussellWilks-MG-MGB.htm

[@MGB-learning]

Great Job! From California USA

[@davidrussellwilks]

Delighted to hear you enjoyed the video, many thanks for subscribing to my channel, it's greatly appreciated.

[@bshnabel]

Nice clean car🍺

[@AJsMGBv8]

Thanks!

[@davidrussellwilks]

Thank you so much for this!

[@marknelson5929]

Great vid. What is the size for the copper crush sump washer please?

[@saabninetythree3352]

Hi David - excellent video, as usual - very professionally presented, thanks. I have a standard 1967 MGB and a slight problem - there is no "ring" or "collet" on my dipstick and it therefore just sits on the bottom of the sump. Is that correct, or am I missing something that stops the end of the dipstick hitting the sump? Clearly if something is missing I am getting incorrect(higher) readings for my oil level. Thanks, Chris

[@davidrussellwilks]

I thought there should be a collar around the dipstick on a 1967? I looked in the Moss parts book but could not find a part number though. On my car the collar looks as though it's braised on but the engine is a later 18V type. I measures on my car from the top of the collar to the top of the max mark on the dipstick; 24cm. How does that compare with yours?

[@leeshaw8923]

Excellent set of videos David, good clear instructions and explanations, thank you. Could I ask where you got your oi/water gauge from please? I have an MG Midget and your videos have inspired me to do more jobs myself.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your kind message, the oil/water gauge is from Farringdon instruments, it does require an electronic sensor for both the temperature and pressure (I replaced the mechanical senders)

[@leeshaw8923]

Thank you.

[@manekdubash5022]

David, what make and model is the sandwich plate above the oil filter? Presumably it's a take-off for the oil temp sensor.

[@davidrussellwilks]

The oil filter housing is an MGB one from 1974-75, part ref 12H4405. I had the take off for the oil temp sensor fitted later (weld in bung). The good thing about this housing is that the filter can be pre-filled before fitting and the temp take off fits in easily.

[@user-ol7xy9di6u]

Love your videos David. Does the oil cooler drain? If not does it need an occasional draining to clear out any sediment? Cheers Bill

[@davidrussellwilks]

Good Evening Bill, There is usually always oil left in the cooler when changing the oil, what I tend to do at the end of the season is to remove the cooler and leave it upside down for a few days to drain out. Ideally the oil filter should prevent much sediment building up.

[@garya3056]

Terrific vid. What year is your car? Cheers from Delaware. 👍

[@davidrussellwilks]

Many thanks for your message, it's a 1965 MK1 but built on a heritage shell with lots of new parts.

[@garya3056]

David Russell-Wilks extraordinary! 😎

[@travisolson9190]

Silkoline is a motorcycle oil correct? Ive heard some people getting around the zinc issue by using a motorbike lubricant

[@davidrussellwilks]

Yes, it's a 20w50 fully synthetic, it's what the original engine builder recommended. It does seem to work well and it's not too expensive either (compare to similar fully synthetic race oils)

[@DavidUKesb]

David, what is the reason for removing the spark plugs before building up the oil pressure? Wouldn't disconnecting a lead stop the engine from firing whilst still turning it over? Many thanks

[@davidrussellwilks]

Thanks for your message David, I remove the plugs so that the engine is easier to turn over. I run with a slightly smaller single 12V battery, having all the plugs out means it has less work to do.

[@DavidUKesb]

@@davidrussellwilks Thanks for the advice. Was it the thick lead from the coil to the distributor you also disconnected?

[@davidrussellwilks]

@@DavidUKesb I disconnect both the high tension (thick lead) and low tension (thin lead) to the coil. I have heard that the electronic ignition units shouldn't like to have power applied to them if they are being used without the engine running, the coil will get hot and drain the battery if you leave the ignition on.

[@dtrimm1]

David - Like other comments, I think these are really well-done videos, thanks and kudos to you for taking the time to do them. I have a question/quandary: I've just changed the oil on my 1977 MGB following your step-by-step here, however I can't seem to get any oil pressure after doing it. Everything was apparently working well before (including the gauge), so it feels like it's going to be something I've either done or omitted. I have disconnected the gauge hose and cranked the engine to see if oil is moving ... it isn't, which I think rules out the gauge. What would you do to diagnose/fix? Many thanks

[@davidrussellwilks]

Thanks for your message David, it might be that the pump has lost it's prime, if you take off the rear oil pipe that's going to the cooler you should be able to pour some oil down there to see if you can re-prime the pump. I would say under no circumstances attempt to start the engine until you know there is oil pressure there. A couple of questions; How long did you let the oil drain for? Has the engine run at all with no oil pressure? Is the oil showing at least halfway on the dipstick?

[@dtrimm1]

@@davidrussellwilks thanks so much for your reply, and I’ll definitely look at trying to prime the pump. To answer your questions, the oils drained out (from cold) in about 20 minutes. The engine was started after I’d refilled with oil and changed the filter I’m afraid.. my bad. When I didn’t see any pressure come up I stopped (maybe 30 secs of running) and then took out the plugs, disconnected coil etc. The oil actually shows at just under max on the dipstick.

[@dtrimm1]

@@davidrussellwilks All fixed now... in the end it turned out the new filter was too short - popping the old one back in fixed the problem until I can replace it. Thanks for your advice and help.

[@davidrussellwilks]

Delighted that you’ve got it fixed David, I have heard about that before with certain oil filters but never seen it first hand. Hopefully if the engine was only ticking over no damage was done.

[@richardmeade2287]

David what exhaust do you run? It sounds great

[@davidrussellwilks]

Thanks for your message Richard, it's the Moss TT system

[@Unkimark]

Are you allowed an electronic distributor in the gts series ?

[@davidrussellwilks]

Thanks for your message, I've taken this directly from the website as it explains it better than I can! An Electronic triggering device type of ignition will be permitted as long as it is NOT mapable and is fully contained inside the distributor. (i.e Aldon Ignitor) A 123 distributor will not be permitted nor will Luminition ignition.

[@Unkimark]

@@davidrussellwilks thanks thanks

[@DavidUKesb]

@@davidrussellwilks Hi Russell. Isn't the 123 fully contained within the distributor?

[@davidrussellwilks]

@@DavidUKesb Yes, but I think the 123 can be maped and that's why they are not allowed?

[@martinjones2160]

Hi David, Where did you get the magnetic sump plug from, I can only seem to find metric ones?

[@davidrussellwilks]

Thanks for your message Martin, I think my one came from Moss, part ref is 88G257X

[@martinjones2160]

@@davidrussellwilks Thanks David; please keep up your excellent videos, they've given me confidence in jobs that I wouldn't have attempted before.

[@desby5]

hi what about the oil in the oil cooler

[@davidrussellwilks]

I think if you are changing the oil regularly there should be no need to drain the cooler. If the oil is very old I think it would be worth removing the cooler to drain or possibly just replacing it altogether.

[@wallisparnell4464]

Curious, my car is a 72 B, what about flushing the oil cooler? Sure after many years, there’s going to be dirt buildup in it? Seems like a good policy, yet how would one do that?

[@davidrussellwilks]

As I change the oil in my car regularly (after each race weekend) I don't both to drain the cooler. If you really wanted to drain the cooler I think the easiest way would be to remove it from the car and leave it upside down to drain overnight. I don't tend to use engine flushes or similar, there is no reason why clean engine oil could not be used if you wanted to flush the cooler though. I don't think that dirt/residue would build up in an oil cooler in the same was that it does a radiator. Metal particles and contaminants would be held in the oil filter as they pass through the system. Modern engines don't require the oil cooler to be flushed or cleaned out, I think if the engine oil is changed regularly it shouldn't be an issue.

[@scottmartin7213]

Where did you get your dash from ?

[@davidrussellwilks]

Hi Scott the dash is a standard MGB one, the data logger and oil pressure/water temp gauge are from Farringdon Instuments