MGB restoration timeline part 16

Fully welded floor pan

[@orlandorealestate6013]

Nice work Mate!! I've got a 64 & a 72 Roadster both need the floor pans replaced. I've seen several other videos but yours shows me not only what to do but HOW to do it. Thank You!!!

[@steviecuz2396]

Thank you kind sir, it’s always nice when you find that your work has helped others, progress has been slow over here with the weather and other things keeping me busy, hope to get back to it soon, good luck with your rebuild. Regards, Steve.

[@theawakening5548]

I like how you did that. If I was doing the pans at the same time you were I would have definitely done it like you did. I just welded it all around inside and out, seam sealed, then out POR 15 on it.

[@americanpatriot2422]

Great video! I did the very same to both floor boards on my 1968 MGB.

[@steviecuz2396]

Thanks AP, I too have done both sides, check out my episode 20, it’s hard work isn’t it!

[@alistairmclauchlan7063]

This is the best mg resto videos on you tube a lot of the others take too long to get to the point cheers

[@steviecuz2396]

Thanks Alistair, that means a lot, it’s been too cold lately to get motivated but I’ll start again soon, I try to make videos of jobs that I can’t find, ones that nobody else has done, to make the work clearer for others to follow, we are fortunate to have such a big pool of work, that others have done, to learn from, just passing it along.

[@jerryp2433]

Do you have to use self tapping screws to hold in place? Can't you just use some weight plates or something? I'm not sure if I want to create a hole that I have to plug weld.

[@steviecuz2396]

They are Tex screws that have a hexagon head and fit into a magnetic driver (see episode 12) and are very easy to fit and remove, yes they do leave a small hole but you are there with your welder so it’s no biggie to fill a few more holes and for me it was very important to close all the gaps to enable easier welding of the full underside, you can’t really rely on weights to do this efficiently. Good luck!

[@paulmurphy7823]

Nice work.

[@jerryp2433]

I wish you had videos of you welding underneath. When you did the welds under there did you have switch spots to stop it warping?

[@steviecuz2396]

I’d spot welded the top first so that kept it pretty rigid but yes I would have done it at a couple of inches at a time to keep the heat down, all on my back in about 18” space so needed to rest now and then.

[@stevencowan5599]

Hi Steve, as all ways like your work. The chassis is still looks in good condition but would it been advisable while the floor was of to rust spray inside the frames due to your almost forever wet roads ???? Luckily we don’t have that problem In Sunny ☀️ Queensland Australia 🇦🇺 Cheers Steve.

[@steviecuz2396]

Thanks Steve, if you wind back a few episodes you’ll see that I’ve cut some rust out and inserted those crossmembers and rust painted the inside, and if you look carefully just before I put the floor in the final time I have painted the insides with black hammerite , I do appreciate any advice so thanks

[@BrailsfordsRides]

Hey Stevie, I still have to do the front of my Passenger side, what did you do to protect the fuel lines or were you able to get enough clearance from them?

[@steviecuz2396]

When I did the spring hangers and all the welding work rear of the back seat I scrapped the tank and all the rusted fuel lines, brake pipes and moved the wiring to the front so there’s nothing underneath, the exhaust is coming off next and I’m starting on the right hand floor and sill next.

[@BrailsfordsRides]

@@steviecuz2396 im not looking forward to it. My lines are all covered in rust protection from previous owner

[@steviecuz2396]

@@BrailsfordsRides I had no choice the outriggers on both sides are shot and some parts of the centre rail so I all had to go to work on them, that under seal can catch fire so should come off, best of luck, lll be following you.