Miata Gets a MARUHA STROKER Crankshaft From Japan!

I just can't put things back together the same way they came apart. The quest for power under the curve continues. Also slight correction, when I spoke about rod/main bearing clearances I should have been speaking in "ten thousandths" rather than "thousandths." Another slight correction - when you bore up, you do actually gain a small amount of compression rather than losing it. You're pulling in more air to begin with (left side of the ratio i.e. "9:1") and compressing it down into nearly the same space. The combustion chamber in the head remains the same size, but technically the overall area where the air is compressed grows slightly with bore-up due to larger head gasket and volume between the deck and piston (right side of the ratio) so the bump in compression is very small, usually about 0.1 or less. Changing the stroke from 85mm to 87mm however, raises compression by about 1 full point. So this thing is going to be REAL rowdy.
My requested specs:
Rod = 0.0020 - 0.0022"
Main = 0.0018 - 0.0020"
Thrust 0.0060 - 0.0090"
Top ring = 0.0170"
Second Ring = 0.0190"
PTW = 0.0030"
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0:00 Intro
0:53 Unboxing
3:08 Raising Displacement On BP's
5:19 Maruha Crank vs. Stock
5:53 Machine Shop Plan & New Parts
9:00 Build Specs/Clearances For Rebuild
12:50 I Get Peer Pressured Into Sending It Even More

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

Slight corrections to the video - when I spoke about rod/main bearing clearances I should have been speaking in "ten thousandths" rather than "thousandths." My requested specs: Rod = 0.0020 - 0.0022" Main = 0.0018 - 0.0020" Thrust 0.0060 - 0.0090" Top ring = 0.0170" Second Ring = 0.0190" PTW = 0.0030" Another slight correction - when you bore up, you do actually gain a small amount of compression rather than losing it. You're pulling in more air to begin with (left side of the ratio i.e. the "9" in "9:1 compression") and compressing it down into *nearly* the same space. The combustion chamber in the head remains the same size, but technically the overall volume where the air is compressed grows slightly with bore-up due to larger head gasket and increased volume between the deck and top piston ring (right side of the ratio, i.e. the "1" in "9:1 compression") so the bump in compression is very small, usually about 0.1 or less. Changing the stroke from 85mm to 87mm however, raises compression by about 1 full point. So this thing is going to be REAL rowdy.

[@seymoarsalvage]

In the machining industry, we just call the ten thou marks "tenths". Which can be confusing for someone not knowing better and think we talking about tenth a inch and not tenth of a thousandths of a inch lol

[@albertmichall5732]

What about the guy in the TENT . Thank you

[@hashematassi6953]

“It’s going to be tuned for a bit less power than the last set up…” ~ 2 months later ~ “Oh my God boys we just made 600 whp. The turbo is on fire but I’m going to leave it as is for the street cred.” Love you Krayg🙏🏼❤️

[@mmavcanuck]

Glad to see more regular miata dad videos again. You make the KZbin car community better!

[@FDB77]

LMAO I literally called you out in the last video for that first statement (0:00)! 😂 I knew you couldn't stop yourself Greg and we love you for it!

[@MidnightMiata]

I definitely endorse the high comp pistons! I'm running 10.5:1 in my 1.6 with a GTX2860R and it runs fantastic on pump 93oct. You'll definitely like the broad powerband it gives!

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

Great to hear

[@shrimp562]

@@TheCarPassionChannel gotta swap to the 1.6 for the full effect though ;)

[@sepg5084]

He's already running boost, increasing compression might require him to be on e85 all the time and might not be worth it. Maybe he can go higher compression but lower than 10:1.

[@MrTAKIS1984]

Is it reliable? High temperatures issues?

[@miatafied]

@@sepg5084 pretty sure he already runs e85 at all times. Which is honesty ideal, I mean pump gas sucks 😂

[@4399daniel]

In my opinion keep it on the safer side of spec. Dyno queens are cool and all but I think you should enjoy driving it more. We need to see this thing embarrass some v8’s asap 👌

[@haydentakara4369]

Fs. No point in making 5-600hp if you have years of lag or can’t put the power down.

[@4399daniel]

@@haydentakara4369 dude, Greg is smart enough to be able to select an efficient enough turbo with the correct turbine housing vs compression to build the right power. Trust me. There’s a reason the call him the Miata dad.

[@haydentakara4369]

@@4399daniel no doubt. Just in general though, a lot of really great builds often lose their actual street functionality and drivability by people going all out and sticking the hugest turbo on their car. Sure it makes big numbers but it’s hardly usable.

[@VasilyBuilds]

Let's goo! Moah Powa baby 🚀

[@andrewjutras]

I honestly think backing it down a notch is what's best for the car. You're basically building an even more bulletproof version of it's previous state, and you should be able to enjoy driving the car. Keep it in a safe, reliable power range, and enjoy having another pair of jackstands freed up for whatever your next project is :)

[@codegreen5213]

Bofi are so great, called up and spoke with the guy who does their youtube videos about a frankenstein engine build, was happy to chat with me and super helpful! Love that you're using a repping them, peace from the UK ✌🏻

[@danielnorman8595]

Cool mods, I live in the mountains of north Georgia so the horsepower isn't what it is about, it's the handling. Too much horsepower and you'll wind up breaking loose and spinning out. I have a 91A in a 2002 B so much fun to drive in these mountains. I wish I was younger. When you get around 60 bending over the engine of a car gets to be pretty hard on the back.

[@tommyboy1two]

Have you seen this channels old is videos? Driving in the mountains is literally his origins fella

[@TheeCrazyblackman]

Love being surprised by the new details you give us on builds!

[@richardpeterson6019]

Nice pic in the Flyin' Miata flyer that came in the mail today! It seems they really enjoy your support in your channel.

[@ldsiverling]

Maruha makes some of the best stuff. I have their extended top hats for my coilovers.

[@RyanRoadReaper]

This has got to be one of the fastest street Miata's out there on KZbin

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

That's partly my goal!! All street trim, street tires, easy to cruise around, but just straight up vicious when you want it. I think anything over 450-500 isn't really possible just due to the excessive lag and limited traction north of that power level. At least without flares, 275 semis slicks or drag specific tires, etc. I like keeping the exterior relatively unassuming

[@TwinTurbo46]

I appreciate you, Greg. Living vicariously through you right, now You gotta say no to peer pressure (sometimes) Send it, bro!!!

[@garry2280]

Awesome channel and you pushing to the limit videos are teaching me a lot 👍 thank you for your time

[@someoneelse2106]

We love you Buddy. Thanks for letting us live vicariously through your Miata lifestyle.

[@jasonwassman3888]

Picked up my car from AED and saw your bundle of goodies ready for the machine shop, very nice stuff, glad to see what you do with it!

[@steventrott8714]

I’ve dreamt about those cranks for years. Very nice!

[@91ludesit]

High compression for the win, anything to get that turbo to MBT as fast as possible.I still wager you need some sort of advanced traction control system that can properly manage wheel slip. Otherwise big power numbers do you no good. Not sure what you have access to in the miata world, but there is some nice stuff out there that can read front and rear wheel speeds and pull timing and boost to allow you to reach a set wheel slip percentage, 10% seems to be optimal for best acceleration. Anyhoo its been fun following along the build and I'm about to dive head first into building a high response RB26 myself. I've got some tricks up my sleeve since RBs are super lazy on the low end. I'm hoping for a pretty flat torque curve from 3500 to 8500 with a turbo capable of 650 horse. We'll see where I get.

[@victorsanjurjo4666]

His Miata is surprisingly stable with the power he puts down. He has videos when he was at the track and put down some good times on a tight track! I recommend checking it out! Theirs even a really clean NC in it also!

[@Joel-wj9ql]

I think a simple boost by gear system could do the job tbh he seems to have good throttle control

[@tehpillemannerator]

Craige, you rock. What I would really love to see someday would be a "budget engine rebuild from start to finish". Toughen it up where reasonable and going the budget route where ever possible. What to do yourself and what an engine shop has to do. I know you've made great engine rebuild videos before but with the goal of extreme power. Most people run around 250 whp and would love to be on the safer side engine wise :)

[@LeadFarmer1597]

Thanks for the breakdown with what you've brought to the machine shop and what you discussed with them. That's been something that I've felt the most ignorant on.

[@dil6969]

High compression pistons seem to make more sense in the pursuit of a broad power band. Mazda's cars these days are all running ridiculous compression and they have great low to midrange torque for being small 4 cylinders. Plus, making more power by improving thermal efficiency seems like a win-win to me.

[@sepg5084]

He's already running boost, increasing compression might require him to be on e85 all the time and might not be worth it.

[@legocfl9282]

@@sepg5084 he did explain he’s already running e85 all the time anyways, so it probably won’t make a difference to him

[@lockjawjak]

I love how you have your into sequence on all your vids, it is such an upbeat tune it just gets you into a good mood! A shame boosted bois dont use theirs very much as it has a similar feel good vibe

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

Yeah I took motivation from their old intro when I was making this!

[@SXF_turbo]

Small bore, big boost! This is going to be so awesome, cant wait for the dynovideo

[@aaronm2452]

Glad to see the blue mazda banner has has a good life in your garage.

[@jeffhaft7378]

Saw you on the new flyin miata magazine that literally just came.... congratulations

[@Squirrel765]

Go with the 84mm and higher comp pistons route! I'm not a pro engine builder, but I'd rather have more meat in the sleeve on a boosted car. The more on the major thrust side the better. That's why anyone sane who builds 85mm> BP motors sonic tests theirs blocks. Weisco's 84mm "10:1" pistons have a 7cc dome on them FYI. I have a set waiting to be put into a very similar build to yours (84mm, same pistons, but NA for the time being) I've yet to cc them to figure out the exact dome size, but I'll do that if you're interested. Anyway, I'd first figure out your piston to valve clearance on your head before you shave it. Then get fancy and incorporate all the math (cc your chambers, figure out theoretical piston to deck height, etc) and then shave your head what you can (you should have enough...), or until you get to a static compression of 10.5:1 or 11:1. Obviously you'll have to live in ethanol land permanently with that dynamic compression ratio. Looking forward to the build!!

[@nyreppin1]

Congrats on making it to flyin' Miatas little magazine

[@aristotleallen5577]

omg, so happy to see this post after our last chat!!!

[@SoloD33A]

Make sure you clean out the back side of the plugs on the crank. I just installed this Maruha 1.9 crank on my nb, with thicker headgasket from Maruha also. Kept stock pistons and rods and refresh everthing else, head valved and refinished, then a Maruha flywheel with new clutch also. Got set up on Maruha's Rapid piggyback for a break in tune. Now at 500kms breaking in.

[@marywillis6896]

These days, if you want something done right and honest you have to do it your self there is no other option.

[@dumbestoyster]

YAASSS!!! DAD, YOU GET THE COOLEST SHIZ!!! I'm so excited...

[@Meelo_MX5]

1:32 Greg laughing like a Frenchman 😂😂

[@Belialzero]

"Plenty of power", nice last words. I'm also a fan of "while you're in there". Let's go!

[@ricks_toys]

Next video, Miata gets Billet Block and head. We're now aiming for 50psi on low boost and only 1200whp just for the street cred.

[@joelhernandez393]

Truly an inspiration

[@daxicrnogorac]

Get more and more surprised everytime he posts a video. 😁

[@RedCoat232]

This is so timely. I just decided yesterday to order the 87mm from Maruha Motors. I already have the same 84mm Wiseco pistons - catalog says they're 10.05:1, websites selling them say 10.5:1 - who knows what it is. Mine is for a Rotrex build using the C30-94. Have the redline set at 8400 rpm to give a max impeller speed of 10400 out 10500 limit. Crank pulley is 130mm Supercharger pulley is 105mm. Mine is going through 50mm Jenvey ITB's on their Turbo plenum. Can't wait to get it all finished, still lots to do.

[@seannorris111795]

Tremendous! Love this content!

[@matos_x_]

You’re so great I watched all the ads

[@rennkafer13]

Unless you have the ability to ultrasonic check the bores I wouldn't go larger than 84mm bore. I've personally sonic checked a BP block that had been bored to 85.5 and we ended up tossing the block as the front side of one bore was only .049" thick just under the deck. The other three were ~.065". Even at 84mm that block would still have only had an .079" wall thickness on the thinnest cylinder which IMO is too thin for a performance engine. What we don't know in that particular case was did the machine shop mess up the bore work or was there a big core shift when Mazda cast the block. I didn't have the block to check before machining to measure. TL;DR... Unless I could sonic check wall thickness, I wouldn't put much overbore in a BP block.

[@Nasonix2]

I always thought adding bore size increases compression ratio. Same thing for the added stroke. Because the combustion chamber volume stays the same but you're pushing more air into it. Awesome on the maruha crankshaft!!! You're always one step ahead of me on my dream build hahaha I'm excited tho to get to see how it works out. From what I understand is the maruha cranks are made out of a stronger steel than the stock cranks. But they're not forged. So I don't exactly know what to make of that. But then there also the design improvements and 2.2lb weight savings... Hopefully they're still atleast as strong as the stock forged ones. I was actually in the middle of looking into that but I haven't figured it out yet... And also +1 for excitement for the moderate boost in compression ratio. However I'd suggest a knock sensor just to have that extra piece of mind. HP Academy has good tutoring for calibrating knock sensors in standalones

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

Yeah you know what you're right, I'm not sure why I got that backwards. But it's a very tiny amount, like 0.1 point per 0.5mm of bore. Because although you have more uncompressed air to begin with, you also technically increase the "chamber volume" since you are using a larger diameter head gasket and your stock pistons are usually slightly below the deck height so that volume plays into the ratio. As well as the volume between the cylinder walls and top ring which is also a tiny bit greater.

[@miatafan]

DAMN that crank is an awesome part

[@imnota]

Oh my god I remember being in a convo on insta or youtube I don't remember talking about that with multiple other people and you did it, you crazy sob Edit : Hell yeah high comp too ! Definitely wouldn't thin out the cylinder wall any more, as cool as a 2.0 is, it sounds like asking for trouble weakening one of the only remaining stock/weak part. Edit2: Have you thought of nitrous to get 500hp back if you back it down to 450 but with better powerband, or do you wanna keep the nitrous for the nb only ?

[@enso3140]

High comp definitely along with the extra displacement from the stroker crank would definitely improve the response lot

[@markstorer7204]

All good news Greg..,...👍👍👍

[@samuelmartin1829]

Tobby is the MAN

[@farmerbobbygrows3338]

When you taking it to the drag strip I wanna see the times it runs also would love to see a autocross run with it

[@Zesserie]

Thank you! this I havent watched it yet, but i liked and commented, this is what i wanted to see :D

[@Zesserie]

And yes i did the the calculation on "2.1L kitt", this engine would've had around 2.0L. And my vote is on the high compression 1.9L, 2L is cool but higher compression is pretty crucial on E85 tuned turbo motor. (yes more compression means better response for the turbo and earlier spool.) plus the extra stroke will shift the powerband down slightly(we are talking tiny amounts) with the same size valves and ports(and a little better fuel mixing since the swirling will get a bit better in theory) And of course, all this will amount to a broader and more responsive powerband!

[@haufperformance]

The hi comp wiseco pistons have really small skirt’s,so be prepared for some cold piston slap. Oh, and let’s not forget the oil squirters need to be deleted or bent to clear the piston. Ask me how I know. Hahaha unless they changed the design. K590 84mm. Just food for thought.

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

Thank you for the info, I will definitely watch out for that!

[@motomenace86]

There was a video online about 10 years ago, where they used the whole maruah stroker kit, making 700hp

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

Ughhh find this and link me please

[@muaddib2678]

bruh you are building my dream engine, A Turbo Maruha stroker motor this is going to be epic!

[@muaddib2678]

Its all your fault! and I love you for it :) Just ordered my new 87mm Maruha crank, FM Wiseco turbo pistons and Carrillo Super A rods for my engine rebuild.

[@TheMapleDaily]

We influence you to do some bad decisions xD its crazy how far we've gotten over the years with this miata!

[@sw20indy]

84mm hi comp! You’ll love the torque with a high compression stroker. I know I do in my 3sgte.

[@fraziervideo]

Currently doing my head gasket in my 91 Miata in a parking garage in Kearny Mesa lol Just got the head back yesterday. Eventually will likely K swap or rotary if I can find a good kit

[@TheAdatto]

Come back when you get serious.

[@antoinep6503]

Hello, based on the information you presented in this good video I say play it a little safe and go higher compression with faster spool.

[@timothystrunk7323]

Your the man my friend

[@wgrnoah2617]

For sure build the engine with higher compression pistons. Would love to see it ❤️

[@TheAdatto]

High compression AND alot of boost?

[@wgrnoah2617]

@@TheAdatto Yeah, he drives on E85 and you can tune the car for higher comp and boost. Possibly can't get the "peak" performance like lower comp, but still a better throttle response when not in full boost. So a better midrange and that is his goal.

[@dellwoodspeedshop]

Higher compression agreed 👍

[@connormacneil7035]

This is the type of energy we need 😂

[@michaelswitzer9220]

I didn’t read the other comments, but I would like to challenge you to set that cast iron 4 cylinder block on a scale compared to an aluminum LS V8. I suspect they’re close in weight. We won’t talk about twice the con rods, pistons, etc etc etc fully assembled… But I’ll bet those blocks are close. Also, you’re making me want to build a stroker motor for my ‘92…. Really bad.

[@shaoyang5650]

It’s like new toys every time lol

[@XxSavageBearxX]

I was wondering if moving out of Cali would naturally increase your buff horses? Asking for a friend

[@muaddib2678]

Its all your fault! and I love you for it :) Just ordered my new 87mm Maruha crank, FM Wiseco turbo pistons and Carrillo Super A rods for my engine rebuild.

[@aradarakjian5]

Aww thanks 😊

[@christianzinn7636]

Sounds like you are on track and I like what you are doing. I just wish you would try out a CenterForce DFX clutch. Your left leg will thank me!!! Best Always,

[@ioriOki]

Yesssss! More data incoming! You gonna throw Tomei Japan cams at it as well?

[@ioriOki]

Also, let me know if you need any of the Japanese stuff translated/interpreted.

[@andrewschuettpelz1358]

All the compressions!!!!! I'd love to see a comparison of area under the curve for the compression bump. Won't really be an apples to apples chart, but good discussion none the less. Question would be, "can you develop more average WHP, as opposed to the peak WHP you made on the prior configuration?"

[@RydogGaming2002]

for my engine build I got the weisco 84.5mm / 10.5:1 pistons, higher comp would be sick

[@mariosnikolaou5212]

Bro i love your videos.I believe that if you did full time KZbin you'd become something like Rob Dahm. Greetings from Greece!

[@cal_6369]

I’m on lunch at an engine machine shop in California watching this lol

[@kyletice811]

Careful with piling on the torque at low engine rpm. This is where most people destroy stuff ramping the boost and power with more rpm is way safer. Id say bump the compression same size pistons since it’s always on E anyway 9.0 is low for E even with healthy amount of boost. The compression alone should fill torque everywhere and increase efficiencies. Excited to see how it turns out.

[@anthonymoy4471]

I love Greg ❤️

[@JC-vc7tf]

High comp all the way!

[@heckadud]

Love the miata updates but what happened to the Husqvarna?

[@alessiocarlevaro6934]

if you keep the same rods and pistons how do you prevent the pistons from hitting the head? did you have 2mm clearance before? or am i missing something?

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

The 2mm stroker crank only puts the piston 1mm higher in the block at TDC, and in stock configuration on my motor the pistons sat 0.5mm below the deck. So with the 87mm stroker they will sit 0.5mm above the deck, and I run a 1.4mm head gasket, so I will still have 0.9mm of squish clearance.

[@alessiocarlevaro6934]

​@@TheCarPassionChannel right, i forgot half the stroke increase is at BDC lol

[@alleyman82]

What about your valve to head clearance? It has been a while since I've looked but I do not believe that this engine is a non-interference engine. With it being .0005 higher on the piston you may want to check how much room you have left. plus in case you do end up with any valve float on a Dyno pull or other non street race high rpm check. 😀

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

@@alleyman82 Valve clearance will all need to be double checked again. You are correct that it is an interference engine now (factory VVT engines are) but I still had ~3.8mm PTV clearance when I checked so it should be okay. There's a chance the pistons will need a hair of work though.

[@christianserrano7349]

Nice shank bro🤣

[@nodnarbz_1327]

Surprised you didn’t go with the Flyin Miata kit! I only put 500 miles on mine NA before I took her apart again for tha booost. Getting those billet main caps !!!

[@nodnarbz_1327]

And WPC treatment!! Thank moto iq for that one!

[@julioyael8459]

I have a short nose crank engine that i want to swap out to a big nose crank. Do you know if I can use the same block, swap the crank to a big nose and just use the different balancer and oil pump from the bnc engine? I’ve been reading on forums but they are not very clear on if it is completely possible. Huge fan by the way!

[@sonofthehill1320]

Don't go bigger bore, in my opinion. I have seen problems when water pumps fail and wear the front of #1, it is often especially thin behind the pump. Cool comparison with the 2 cranks.

[@lindkvistandreas]

Compound! Compound! Compound!.. (response will go crazy and you already have the low mount kraken!

[@fraziervideo]

Oh you in the north of SD!

[@noncog1]

I knew this would happen

[@jameskent9464]

I just bought a BP-4W for my '90 NA6 with inspiration from you. SO PSYCHED

[@nicholasfabulous]

Both you and jafro are crank Bros now

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

I know it's happened like 3 times that we upload a similar video within 1-2 weeks, hahaha

[@kadorikrunch]

Can you test the maxG alpha manifolds next???

[@thememeyata6837]

Tell Mazworx I want my billet mains, need them in my life.

[@ricepony33]

WPC treat everything!

[@coadylewis7739]

"I do believe the 'B' stands for 'bad to the bone'". Dad confirmed.

[@Maverick89]

Curious to know what machine shop you are using? From the looks of it, you were driving somewhere up through Temecula

[@lockjawjak]

I am an avid campaigner for not going overbore unless the bores NEED machining. Boring will always weaken the strength of the block and you will not notice any gains for 1mm of extra bore when you can just run .5psi more boost. I would go higher comp but not enough that you cant run it on low boost with pump gas in a situation when you cant get e85 and still want to drive the car-something like 9.5 should be pretty safe I recon

[@honzastrnad]

Lool, nice man! Now I need to turbo my v8 :D

[@TheAdatto]

Mine already has 2 ;)

[@OhLoki]

Hey so I’m about to start building my 1.6 for about 300 hp do you recommend using your specs for rings or go a little tighter using stock pistons

[@alleyman82]

I see that you have listed .003 for a cylinder wall clearance. You might want to recheck that. I know a hypereutectic piston may only expand a thou to a thou & a half.. running boost like you do you may want .004 to .0045. just for that extra heat ur building. At .003 you are taking a chance on the piston grabbing the wall. Double check with your machine shop but that extra clearance would only be a good thing.

[@humza5842]

Hey man question, i have a SNC and i wanna swap to a LNC can you do a video one day about it? I lose sleep over this LOL having a snc is scary

[@RhoadsChristopher]

Do they make an main girdle for that engine? It might be worth considering based on how much power / torque you are making.

[@Nasonix2]

They don't but whenever I look at the billet main caps, seeing how perfectly machined flat they are on the top.. always makes me imagine how I can weld together a custom girdle for those main caps. It wouldn't be too hard all in all.. except for the fact that it would need a custom oil pan ... Which would be rough due to the shape of the front oil pump to oil pan sandwich seal and then the rear main seal housing to oil pan shape also. Unless you took a stock oil pan and cut out those two hard to replicate shapes I previously mentioned. Then u could manage welding the cast aluminum to billet aluminum sheets to make a custom oil pan to sandwich in the beefy custom girdle. :) The things that keep me up at night...

[@c0c0asauce]

I can't remember if you said before. How did that 500ftlb clutch compare to the stock clutch for weight and grabbiness? Did it feel too serious for fun trips to the store? I have 1050x injectors, LS coils, forged rods, forged pistons, arp everything, cometic headgasket, boundary oil pump, and king bearings running in my miata for a few thousand miles waiting for the day I finally buy the turbo and piping. I'm just trying to make a reliable 300hp and 300ftlb. Also I'm fairly used to heavy clutches in my 1 ton and tractor.

[@TheCarPassionChannel]

In my opinion it was fine for daily use. I have had aggressive clutches in most of my cars, you do have to pay attention when you drive it, but it's totally manageable. Pulling onto trailers, hill starts, nothing is that big of a deal. It does have a much more narrow window than stock, and if you let er' rip it will catch you off guard. TL;DR it's more aggressive than stock but not bad for street use/traffic IMO.

[@peytongilbert45]

I need some help on setting up a 12tooth trigger wheel on the ATI

[@KGB908]

I think you’re going in a good direction with the fat power band. Make the car FUN instead of chasing power numbers. I’m finishing up tuning my turbo 1.6 and I’m only shooting for 220 WHP with forged internals and an overbore. Going for reliable, usable power instead of all out power since it’s a street car.