Miata ignition switch fix and cleaning.

This video shows how to disassemble, clean, service and reassemble a Miata ignition switch. 1990-2005 Mazda MX-5 Miata / Eunos Roadster.
The Mazda part number for the new switch is D001-66-151A.
Call your Mazda parts department for quality Genuine Parts.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of MiataMan, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. MiataMan assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. MiataMan recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of MiataMan, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not MiataMan.

[@puffpuffmcloud]

Yay Miata Man. I'm always relieved when I see you've got a video available for the fix!

[@techbytech85]

@Miata Man I cannot thank you enough, you really are an awesome content creator, real solutions for real people. I have been grinding my nugget for the last couple of months now trying to diagnose my MX-5 for months now, and I'm pretty sure you have finally given me the resolve, something which a local specialist did not (to their credit, the symptoms were absent while the car was in the shop 😆)

[@MiataMan]

Thanks 🙏 I’m glad that I could help.

[@diegosalas6346]

Thank you so much! This got my windows and radio working again.

[@samlaing1638]

Excellent explaining sir

[@SLYDIT]

A fiberglass pen is what you need to clean the contacts. Brings them up like new

[@SmooveBee1]

At 2:29 ... this crystallized failing solder is (one source of issue) where all the heat comes from on this switch; you could try to re-flow that solder after dis-assembling the switch and that will reduce the series resistance of the solder joint there by reducing the I^2 * R dissipation (heat) from it; bending it around a bit will resolve that series resistance temporarily as well; you can measure the series resistance with a four-wire ohm-meter. Miata Man is correct: if you see burning, don't risk it .. you may melt your harness connector. If the internals fail on this switch, that is another source of heat ... so you got an chicken and egg problem .. but once that solder starts failing, no matter which failure came first ... it is a runaway train of failure .. the more the solder fails, the more heat it produces and the more it fails. Still, this can take 28 years .. but don't let it go for too long ... you can melt the harness connector; this is an easy part to replace. Very interesting to see one dis-assembled. Thanks Miata Man!

[@MississippiCuts]

I need your help desperately I have a 99 Miata it was running fine I turned it off and when I went to crank it back up it just turns over but when we went to tow it home we tried pushing it off and it cranked please help me figure out what it could be

[@samanthagannon9415]

Can you tell me how to put the ball bearing and springs back, where they go. Mine all came out and trying to put back together

[@chrispayne1791]

Hi Samantha, I’m sure that you’ve probably sorted it out by now, but when I did the same I thought I’d lost the ball bearing spring, but it was just horizontal (perpendicular to the top springs) inside the black piece itself. I carefully held both ball bearings against the spring with one hand and moved the cylinder back over it _quickly_. Luckily got it back in on the first try!

[@FearofBitches]

Hey man, My 93 will get power and when i go to start it I hear an audible click before losing all power for a little bit, after 3-8 tries of this waiting to get power again it will start, has a brand new starter, battery, terminal connects, and alternator. Thinking it's a relay or something. But if you can help point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated(i would go to the forums but i forgot my password lol).

[@MiataMan]

I would look at the ignition switch and main relay next. The main relay is in the engine bay fuse box and is labeled “Fuel inj”

[@chriswilkinson8545]

Will this switch be compatible with a mazda bongo ? I'm having the same issue where it was burning up inside, I have just stripped it down and cleaned and put back together so far no smoke no flame

[@MiataMan]

The Mazda Bongo likely has a different switch. They will look similar, but probably not the same.

[@jroy2327]

I recommend you not remove more than the 2 brass contact strips, Don't remove the black key cylinder piece. I had my switch in the off position and the key cylinder spring uncoiled sending on of the 2 bearings flying anyway just like Miata Man's 1st switch. The spring recoil would be even worse if the switch is in the on position. This makes switch reassembly far more difficult, because you aren't sure exactly where the 2 bearing balls should go. Possibly if you shine a bright light through the plastic, you can see where they go, prior to disassembly. There are 6 springs of various lengths under the brass contact strips pointing upwards an 2 springs in each side, so do take a picture of these, and how the contacts are oriented in relation to the screw mount arm. The 2 brass contacts have dedicated slots in the black rotating key piece, so they only go in 1 way correctly.The contact strip with the outer position tab goes back on 1st. The other contact with inside position tab goes on top of the other contact. If done correctly the 2 contact bulges nearest the center post are the same heightand opposite each other. This probably makes little sense, but are definitely things to look for once the cover with 6 ignition contacts is removed.

[@Victorrrr]

Hey so i have been trying to troubleshoot my Miata for the past couple of hours, I have a 98 NB (I live in Japan), and my car won't turn over at all. It thinks the keys are still in the ignition when I take them out my dash has all the lights on (brake, airbags and seatbelt lights) and won't shut off. I just paid for a new OEM ignition switch for 160$ do you think that will fix the problem? Or do you have any insight or tips you could give me. Thank you.

[@SaCriFiCE891]

Did this fix your problem?

[@Victorrrr]

@@SaCriFiCE891 No iit didn't, not even the new one. In fact the metal piece that turn's the ignition switch broke off. I had to buy a new (used) key fob. Once I installed it then it ran. If your actual metal piece brakes off you can drop your ignition switch down and start your car with a screwdriver (or something that fits in the slit) just to take it home. If you need to I can send you photos of what happened with me. hope this helps.

[@SaCriFiCE891]

@@Victorrrr I sent you a message on Instagram

[@cba360]

What are the chances of the ignition switch being the fault of a crank but no start issue, my Miata has live at ecu but not switched live, cranks just fine, but no ecu on means no spark

[@MiataMan]

Hi Chris, have you checked your Crank Angle Sensor?

[@cba360]

Yeah replaced crank and cam sensor, seems to be the immobiliser so getting a test unit to see if it fixes it at the moment, used this video as a guide and rebuilt my ignition switch and worked smoother after with no signs of any issues internally

[@markinnam6991]

Hi, have you done 1 for toyota camry ?

[@creamwobbly]

Asking Miata Man? :-) Camry/ Corolla is super easy to replace, just do the whole barrel. You get a new pair of keys out of it too, to replace the worn down one you use and the one you lost!

[@nate_d376]

Couldn't you braze the copper? Give those divots a little life...just wondering.

[@MiataMan]

Probably could, but I didn’t want to go that deep 👍

[@knx7405]

Nothing about disassembling the lock