Invisible Wire LED Lighting: Ultimate Kitchen Upgrade!

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[@Peranolde]

Hey Michael! The main reason for the difference in language is that Transformers just transform the voltage output, whereas drivers convert alternating current to direct current. If you put AC power through LEDs you're going to have a bad time.

[@titosrevenger]

So it's basically an AC adapter?

[@scotteverard6286]

Transformers also come from another planet so they’re bound to speak a different language.

[@MichaelAlm]

@peranolde Good to know! @scott I debated about adding in the transformer noise when I said that 😂

[@Gazman299]

@@scotteverard6286 Ha!

[@Dragonited]

A driver will also limit the amount of current the LEDs can draw from it to avoid overheating of the LEDs.

[@douglasstrohhaecker8430]

I loved the video, more people need to use this type of lighting on their furniture. I am a lighting designer and I have some points that I would like to complement and correct: COB LED strips are not very good for lighting use, only for decorative uses, especially when we are talking about a place that requires a little more luminous flux. They heat up a lot, which shortens their lifespan. The use of aluminum channels, in addition to providing a good finish, can help with heat dissipation, more people need to use those. To prevent the LED dots from appearing, the diffuser will be enough, in addition to giving a good diffused finish to the light. We just need to check the light retention. Another important point is the lumen. Watts is the power of the LED, not necessarily how much light it produces, some brands and models are more efficient than others. In summary, the main points you need to take into consideration are the CRI, as in the video it needs to be at least 90+, the lumens per length it produces, the light retention of the diffuser and a LED strip that has a low Steps value (MacAdam ellipse). I love these videos, in addition to being a lighting designer, I am also an interior designer, and I have already implemented several of your ideas in projects

[@MichaelAlm]

This is great info! Thank you! There's always more to learn about this stuff.

[@nomoretwitterhandles]

That's good to know! I'm wanting to get some LEDs to provide better soft lighting for my room, so your comment was very helpful!

[@karenmitchell6814]

So if you don’t recommend COB LEDs for under cabinet lights , and you don’t want light “dots”, what do you recommend?

[@sammyk9284]

@@karenmitchell6814that’s what a good diffuser will fix.

[@riakata]

COB LEDs are good for lighting they are just higher power output per foot which leads to more heat output. If you look at the specs a COB strip has way way more LEDs than a non-cob strip that is why it heats up more its just more LEDs in total. You lose a massive amount of light through diffusers even clear ones and closing a channel off insulates the strip a cob strip hidden properly in a channel does not need a diffuser. If you compare specs a COB LED strip can have much higher lumens per ft but does not need a diffuser which only lets 60-90% of the light through and that is converted into heat in the diffuser and traps the hot air above the strip in a channel. For any application where the strip is very close to the user you should use COB led strips to avoid the multi-shadow effect. They also high LED element failures better as there are more LEDs in total so one dead one doesn't cause a visible gap in the light.

[@metabeard3788]

I'm glad you went with the hard wired approach, rather than all of the battery, Wifi, Bluetooth crap that won't work in another decade. I did mine this way as well and wish I'd installed the transformer remotely and ran the low voltage wire like you did. Instead, I hid my transformer within the cabinets, which was a massive pain in the ass. Looks great and works nonetheless, so live and learn.

[@gothicchocobo]

I can't wait for Adam Savage's next book "Every book's a Monitor Riser" Lol

[@MichaelAlm]

😂😂😂

[@Ugly_German_Truths]

A couch leveller too ;P

[@That_Ryan_Guy]

When installing the wire in the walls use a "speaker" wall plate with binding posts. This not only gives a cleaner & more professional appearance but also saves from having to locate the wire. Furthermore instead of running a wire between cabinets you can tie into one location. As a bonus you can use the multi binding post option for "zones", like below cabinet and above cabinet lighting. You can also use the multi option for additional drivers if you require more power than whats available with one driver.

[@2hlix]

Also in same vein. In wall approved speaker wire is often a large enough gauge for lighting. Unlike this video I wouldn't trust door bell wire for lighting applications as it's too small for the possible currents imo.

[@That_Ryan_Guy]

@@2hlix Speaker wire is a awesome idea! Especially if you need to run it a longer distance or significant load.

[@joegibes]

​​​@@2hlix18 AWG is likely totally fine for LEDs like this, but it does depend on the current and length of run. Ex. For 5A, 18 AWG should be fine depending on the length. If these LEDs are 14W/m at 12V, that's 1.17A/m. Rough estimate of 3 meters means the LEDs from the video draw 3.5A. Since 18 AWG is rated for 7~10A (depending on many factors), it seems appropriate for the lengths in this video. Even 20 AWG might be fine, but it depends mainly on the cable's ambient temp, heat dissipation, and length to avoid too much voltage drop. Also depends if you need the LEDs at max brightness all the time (which can degrade over time - ideally, go for brighter than you need), both for the general heat produced by the cable, and if any voltage drop from the cable length will be noticeable. Also note that the conductors within the strip itself are likely much smaller area than 16 or 18AWG wire... Which is one of the reasons why you need power injection for longer LED strip runs.

[@sniperpickaxemc]

I love how you show how to do different types of projects that are related to wood shop projects, and share all the titbits and tricks of information. I'm at the age where I have started to get full free reign over what I want to create, and your videos give me a lot of inspiration.

[@rjrotermund]

Thank you!!!!! Best most practical, straight forward and clearly explained video on LED lighting in woodworking on KZbin!!!!!!

[@mistertwo6113]

Every Tool is a Hammer - that's how I roll 😁 One of the best explanations of types of lighting and what/why to pick the differences. Thank you!

[@wh0tube]

I thought I knew how to do this! But, if Michael Alm’s doing it, it’s worth learning again 👍🙏

[@johngassmann9581]

22:25 that hand popping in from outside made me giggle.

[@MichaelAlm]

Same 😂

[@Sailor_Greg]

i came here to write the same comment, LOL!

[@glittalogik]

@@MichaelAlm "Wife? What wife? Where? ...Ohhhhh, that makes sense!"

[@nickglover]

For most standard cabinet installs I've seen, it's super easy to hide the wires. There's usually a little gap between cabinet boxes, so you can just run it up and over, no holes required. Might have to try to hide the wire running from front to back, but no one's going to look there anyway.

[@CamiloSperberg]

The big plus of aluminium channels is that they increase the dissipation area so your LEDs will be able to dissipate heat faster making them last longer. Besides, you can install diffusers which will help with non-COB LEDs.

[@apostolakisl]

Nice work, but I have to ask, if you built the cabinets, why didn't you build the valence into the original cabinet design? I also found that putting the light strip all the way to the front, directly behind the valence front blocks light from reaching the front edge of the counter. I mounted my lights about 2 inches from the front edge which resulted in the light nicely illuminating the entire counter from the very back edge to the front edge.

[@pfurrie]

Michael, first-rate vid and appreciate your attention to detail. However, you did leave out one aspect I've been trying to get answered for my project: what level of light do you need over the counters? Here are some other questions I had while watching: - What gauge wire did you use to interconnect your LED strips between one-another? - Is your LED strip setup dimmable? - Are the strips a fixed color temperature? - With the COB LEDs, could you have gone with a clear channel cover instead of frosted in order to have less light loss? The COBs have a diffusive layer above the actual LEDs. Thanks, and this video got me to subscribe to the channel.

[@willsalz]

‘Transformers’ transform AC voltages to other AC voltages. LEDs need DC current, so an LED driver needs to convert AC to DC. A driver [ probably ] actually has a transformer inside to step down mains voltage, a rectifier to convert AC to DC and then maybe some other power electronics to produce a clean DC constant current source.

[@MichaelAlm]

That totally makes sense! Thanks for solving that mystery 🙌

[@aleksastojanov4033]

​@@MichaelAlmAlso quick note, $100 for a simple DC 12V or 24V power supply is absurd. Those can be bought for less than $20 with 10A or about 120W for 12V units. There is absolutely no reason to be paying that much for one

[@Greech-Grimwater]

@@aleksastojanov4033 Actually, you are incorrect. While you can get a standard 24v brick for cheap, when you want to use a house dimmer switch, you need a "magnetic" dimmer to be able to dim the lights. The dimmer that normally would dim 120v. The magnetic driver can compensate for the 120v dimming and relate that to teh low-voltage side. Finally, while $100 is a lot, about the cheapest I found was $60 (for a reliable one). Look for a brand called Inexaccessories (B0CP7D89YW). I just got it and it seems to work well.

[@joegibes]

​@@aleksastojanov4033 Note that the $99 "driver" he bought also supports dimming... Although you can handle that with a $2 PWM dimmer module and any LED smart controller. (Or, a PWM dimmer module with a knob).

[@riba2233]

They have a hf trafo but it goes after the rectifier

[@DanielRichards644]

A quick note I would make about Color Temperature (as a LOT of people have no idea about this and just randomly grab LED bulbs (can't tell you how many 4000-5000k LED bulbs i've seen in living spaces in houses), the typical Incandescent bulb is a 2700k color temp, some people may find 3000k a little "harsh", I know I did when I bought them but I lived with it because the bulbs I got where so cheap they paid for themselves in a couple months and this was from 10 years ago when the average LED Bulb was $5 or more. So people upgrading from standard bulbs in a residential setting I would advise 2700k for all your bulbs.

[@glittalogik]

When my partner and I go for evening walks around the neighbourhood, we often have a super judgey running commentary going about the houses we pass - all good-natured of course, and wildly hypocritical given the current state of our own place 😅 It's equal parts gathering inspo for future upgrades and just poking fun at questionable design/decor choices, but one thing that always catches my eye is cold-ass lighting, especially in apartment blocks where there's always one glaring blue-white apartment sticking out like a sore thumb. I saw a house last week that's seared into both my memory and my retinas. It had a huge living room fronted with glass sliding doors so we could see straight in, it was utterly bare (white walls and white tiled floor) apart from a coffee table between two very expensive-looking black leather chesterfield sofas, and the lighting was bright and cold enough to put an Intel R&D laboratory to shame. Like, who the hell is relaxing and feeling at home in that space? I'd be sitting on one of those sofas, doing nothing, with the stress levels of an animal being hunted for sport 😬

[@joegibes]

​@@glittalogik Brands selling "daylight" bulbs as "pure, clean, and energizing" should not be allowed lol. Maybe fine for task areas, but even then I'd recommend 3500~4500k as a more "neutral" white. Too bad it's hard to find bulbs that aren't either 2700K or 5000K/6500K... And don't get me started on tint, lol. Daylight bulbs (especially 6500k) are just not pleasant indoors at night! Also, Philips sells "Warm Glow" dimmable LED bulbs that go from 2700K to 2200K as you dim, for a VERY pleasant cozy glow as they get dimmer!

[@joegibes]

Btw, my recommendation for the most pleasing, non-green no-flicker LED bulb with great color rendering: the GR Reveal HD+. Widely available (Lowe's, Target, Online, etc), not super expensive, and they're just really nice. 2850K but not harsh at all. Compare to whatever LED bulb came with your house, and it makes those looks sickly green - if anything, these are a bit "rosy" due to the special glass/coating. They're also full frosted glass bulbs, just like the old incandescent, rather than plastic half-globes. Another good recommendation is the IKEA TRADFRI smart bulbs! Surprisingly good color rendering for the price, and they're widely supported.

[@riba2233]

2700k is bs and we need to move away from it

[@benene055]

awesome tutorial! If I had the tools, I could easily do it on my own just by following your video step by step.

[@joegibes]

You can put up LED strips with very minimal tools! Just get the aluminum channels, they come with diffusers and screws. If your cabinets already have a lip at the bottom, just fasten em there! And you don't even need any soldering! You can just use lever nuts, crimp connectors, the included barrel jacks (if compatible), solderless splice connectors, etc... and if you need to cut a strip and add wires between, you can probably buy connectors meant for that style of strip that just push on the ends. This is where a very small amount of soldering skill can be convenient, so you aren't relying on these push-on connectors and can totally customize your wire length, but you don't technically need to.

[@momphard]

This was super, super helpful. I've always just thrown my hands up and used hidden LED tubes instead. Never even heard of CRI. Gonna go click your Amazon links.

[@MichaelAlm]

So glad it was helpful!

[@MegaDuncz]

Electrical Engineer here, the reason it is called a driver rather than a transformer is that a transformer is explicitly a device that converts AC power to a different voltage of AC power. LED are diodes and produce light when power is fed through them in one direction, thus the AC power will need to be transformed down to 24V and then passed through a rectifier to turn it into smooth DC power that is suitable to drive the LEDs

[@112Haribo]

thats kinda BS, since that would mean all laptop chargers would be called 'drivers' as well. It's mainly called a 'LED driver' because it's a device that... drives LEDs.

[@chrisw1462]

Also usually a switching regulator with no transformer in sight.

[@riba2233]

​@@112Haribo well laptop bricks are not chargers at all, they are just power supplies. Charging circuit is in the laptop

[@riba2233]

​@@chrisw1462 it has a transformer, just a small high frequency one

[@chrisw1462]

@@riba2233 Nope.. only one winding, so it's an inductor.

[@somethingblend]

Man, seeing this whole thing come together is so satisfying. I'm planning on building out my closet soon and some built in LEDs are now part of that plan. Can't wait to see the next one!

[@MichaelAlm]

Thanks! I'm going to do the same and set up the rest of these LED in my closets

[@theUcane]

beautiful job. I can't wait to see the house done! You are doing a fabulous job!

[@AdamsLab]

First off, thank you for using channel! So many people (including "professionals") don't do this, they just stick the strip directly to the underside of the cabinet 🤢 Second, you spoke to making sure the driver had enough wattage 👍but the other thing that's important to consider is voltage drop. LEDs are typically constant current driven, but these strips are typically constant voltage driven, so making sure they have the correct voltage is important, otherwise they will not get as bright as they should, produce the color they should, or may fade along the length of the strip (basically the LEDs at the start of the strip get enough voltage but they ones at the end don't). When I did my kitchen under cabinet lights, I placed the driver, as well as smart controller in the cabinet above the fridge. I then ran three separate cable runs to each cabinet via the attic. (My setup was complicated by the fact that I used RGBW LED strips, so I had to use cable that had 5 conductors in it). In any case, after going from the cabinet, into and across the attic, and then down the wall into the cabinet, even the shortest run was a few feet. The longest was probably more than 10'. I had to estimate the length and calculate the estimated voltage drop to make sure that each strip was seeing 24v both at the beginning and end of the strip. Realistically, if you're getting a little less (want to stay under 3% drop based on the NEC) voltage at the strip it's probably ok, as long as it's the same along the entire strip (especially for long strips) and it's not so much of a drop on one strip vs. another that you notice a brightness difference. To compensate for a long run you can increase the wire gauge, or move the driver closer (i.e. make the run shorter) if possible. If the strip is particularly long you may need to run a second power cable to it and tap it either in the middle of the strip, or at the end. To calculate voltage drop, you can Google "voltage drop calculator," and plug in the estimated length of the circuit, wattage, and voltage, and the gauge of the wire you plan to use. Just make sure you switch it to DC.

[@hansiejansevanrensburg291]

Every time you show your reveal clips I want to watch airwolf. Any great directors out there. Please remake airwolf.

[@jackalope30]

your level of patience and persistence is insane. great work!

[@alsanova]

Commonly there are two type of LED drivers I know here (UK) Constant Voltage and Constant Current. For LED strips it's best to have Constant Voltage as LED strips have resistors.

[@johnglasheen5099]

The company EShine has LED bars that are easy to install, modestly priced and most importantly.... have a hand wave on/off/dim feature. Just wave your hand at a certain spot and it turns on/off. Hold your hand there and it dims. Great product with screws and caps, or double sided tape.

[@negotiableaffections]

Michael that is a Fab kitchen, your skill [& temperament] shine through! Btw I'm super impressed with your mitres on those valences. I always used to consider sub-contracting Jon Peters to cut my mitres (lol) but I'd have every confidence that you'd give the 'mitre-king' a run for his money!

[@ender23310]

Michael, you’re a great teacher. I’ve learned a ton from you over the years, thank you!

[@ssskids123]

Great walkthrough and a lot of fantastic tips! Going to tackle this in our kitchen this fall, so thank you!

[@amaryillcs2426]

15:55 a tounge depressor?? I've never heard anyone outside of a medical situation call a popsicle stick a "tounge depressor" lol

[@TAWei-hi6uv]

Same thing but larger.

[@mattelias721]

I'm loving this series! Two part comment here... First, thanks for the best LED explanation I've seen pitched to the true amateur level - most content makers kind of gloss over all that with a 'I bought it off Amaeverything, link in description' as if one LED set solves all lighting scenarios; Second, one trick I employ to reduce complexity is to not plow the groove until the miters are all figured out and cut. If your pieces are consistent cross-section, this avoids creating a 'right v. left' component scenario... yes, I have to out-think myself all the time.

[@Gazman299]

Bandages all over your fingers. I love it :-) I've been doing tons of pattern plywood stuff, because of you. I'm thoroughly enjoying it. Thank you so much. Take care.

[@thenullco]

Your attention to detail is superb.

[@Aglicia_Art]

Ohhh thanks for the LED tutorial! I've been meaning to make fake windows in the house, but LED panels are so expensive! Now that I understand LED strips a little better I might pick up that DIY project again!

[@RoxaneJ14]

Thank you for taking the time to explain all the details, I'll definitely revisit this video when I do my kitchen!!

[@thaddeusecheverria7733]

If you’re retrofitting you can also put in a false bottom on the inside of your cabinets to make the same kind of negative space you had between your cabinet and valence

[@riakata]

For heat shrink I would recommend using white colored tube I found out from the specs and testing clear tubing actually isn't fire rated from most manufacturers I've used. Hiding any red/black wire from light reflections is good anyways.

[@MCsCreations]

Fantastic work, Michael! It looks fantastic in there! 😃 As someone who cooks, I definitely approve the idea! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@MichaelAlm]

Thanks MC! You too 🙌

[@zonky85]

Transformers are passive devices, kind of like a gear reduction but for electricity. The output is proportional to the input. Furthermore, they only work with AC voltage. Drivers will accommodate for variations in input and regulate the output as a pwm DC output more like a governor, outputting the specified signal regardless of the input (within a specified range). Fancy drivers will let you control the brightness and color by modifying that pwm output, presuming those features are supported by the strip.

[@MichaelAlm]

Good to know!

[@CaptainBeardsome]

thank you for the valuable advice. i want to do this in my kitchen. however, my kitchen is "galley" style, so its long and skinny with cabinets are on both sides. im at a loss on how to connect the two sides without unsightly wires on the walls or doing a bunch of drywall work (which is more work than i want to put into this) i had the thought of running the two sides on separate power supplies then connecting them with smart switches. however, my knowledge of smart plugs and whatnot is very limited so im not 100% sure how i would do that or if its even possible.

[@stuff6218]

22:25 Never gets old.

[@ZackPyle]

My preference is to offset the LED strip about 1-2" from the light rail (valance) so there isn't a harsh shadow on the countertop since they stick out more than the uppers.

[@baileythompson3680]

Thank you for the information, you explained some things about buy LEDs that I didn’t know. I have been looking for some LEDs and this will definitely help.

[@chrisw1462]

@11:25 Transformers in electricity means a physical thing - a block of metal with windings. LED drivers might have a coil, but not a transformer, because they're switching regulators.

[@dawlin20]

Great video ❤

[@thomas-gk9jp]

Thank you Michaël !

[@bryansmant870]

If you do multi color LEDs, i usually see power supply as representing the transformer/ac-dc converter, and driver for the part that controls/drives the color outputs. Nice work!

[@jldvergara]

Michael, I loved the video and I learned a ton from it, but, man, you have Adam Savage's book as "height block" for your monitor. Oh, man, use a "lesser" book for that. 😂. Again, great video.

[@geneh460]

Lovely design on the cabinets. Very period respectful.

[@barneyhartman-glaser6972]

Nice install. Two questions: 1) what are your thoughts on solder seal heat shrink butt connectors? Seem like it would save one step. 2) What's the plan for replacing the strips when they eventually fail? I realize they strips should last for thousands of hours, but eventually, they will fail and that kitchen seems built to last.

[@MichaelAlm]

Thanks! I've never tried that style connector, but I'm sure they would work. If the LEDs fail then you unscrew the valances, de-solder the connections, and replace them. I've heard from other commenters that the COB LEDs might have a shorter lifespan, but the aluminum channel helps dissipate heat so that helps them last longer.

[@jeremyjedynak]

Since all of the base cabinets along a side are already connected, and this is low voltage wiring, another approach could be to run the low voltage wires from behind the uppers down to the bases before drywall is installed (or cut holes and fish same after drywall is installed) and then have a chase between the base cabinets along the back near the countertop so that you can then connect all the low voltage wires together. One of the base cabinets can then have an outlet where the driver can be placed, making it more convenient to replace when it ultimately fails.

[@mr_voron]

Without getting into the weeds: transformers are usually AC-AC where as drivers (or power supplies) do AC to DC. Good ones will prevent any flicker as well.

[@christopherkohl4930]

Is that an induction range? If so do you like it?

[@Paradigm1976]

Is the valence front overhang beyond the door just an esthetic element, or does it make the LED strip lighting more useful?

[@GARRY3754]

Thanks for brain food. I must ask which miter saw besides Festool is set up for dust extractors? I have older DeWalt 12” slider and it’s hit and miss. Thanks

[@CollinBirmingham]

6:17 hopefully you accounted for that groove being mismatched before you cut :)

[@frijoli9579]

Now show that for existing cabinets. 😄

[@rotteneffekt4416]

Awesome. One thing though, you put screws under the valances for 'maintenance', but soldered the LEDs to the wire.

[@MichaelAlm]

De-soldering is pretty easy. I know because I had to do it a couple times 😂

[@NicholasSandar]

Did you consider using threaded inserts + machine screws to attach the valences to the bottom of the cabinets? I'm more of an electronics guy than a woodworker, but I've found that those are a little more robust to being repeatedly disassembled/reassembled.

[@MichaelAlm]

Threaded inserts would be an upgrade for sure, but I don't think they will be removed often enough to strip out the screw threads.

[@kevinlavoy4807]

I was wondering if Ashley was holding the camera for help and then the arm came out of the wall. 😂

[@triciac.5078]

Very nice!! And thank you for the 101 on LEDs.

[@seanroberts5870]

When cutting the miters at 3:30, any reason you're changing the angle on your miter saw instead of just flipping the other workpieces over to the right side of the saw? Assuming the miter saw fence is straight you'd get your complimentary angles without the chance of small mismatches in the angle, it would also be faster.

[@stiansberg7869]

Great video. My kitchen lighting as bad. Might have to try an upgrade after watching this. What is your reason for going for the full stove vs separate cook top and oven? (not sure what you call it in english). Personal preferanse or is this just the most normal where you live?

[@MichaelAlm]

Thanks! Glad the video was helpful. I picked out the oven stove combo partly because it’s what I’m used to, but also because I was having trouble figuring out a good place for a cabinet oven. They look cleaner, but with this size kitchen it would’ve been a less efficient use of space.

[@robertberger8642]

Great lesson, thanks!!

[@livi116]

Wow amazing job

[@mrljvb]

A transformer transforms voltage, but it remains the same with regards to type. So using just a transformer will convert an AC signal (does not work with DC signals) to a lower or higher AC signal. For a DC signal, you need a rectifier, which is essentially what a power supply is. LEDs run on DC, no AC. Additionally, since you are using 24V, you do not have to worry about a voltage drop as much as you would with 5 or 12V LED strips. If you are doing long runs, or the led strip is far from the controller and power supply, the voltage drop will cause the end of the led strip to be dimmer than the start. You can inject power at the end, or middle of the led strip to compensate for that. Or just use 24V.

[@fantinwoodworking]

Very nice my friend. I’m going to upgrade mine too :). It’s looking so good!

[@MichaelAlm]

Thanks Fantin!!

[@biedawo]

Did you consider using Wago connectors?

[@MichaelAlm]

I’ve had mixed results with those. Some people love them though

[@biedawo]

@@MichaelAlm - what issue were you having with them? I was thinking these would be good for making the connection within the valence between the main wiring and the pigtails going to the strip on the valence. This would seem to be more serviceable (?). I solder a lot for electronics, but soldering in a cabinet is... no fun. That kitchen is turning out fantastic, btw.

[@peterhansen5754]

Can you give any information on the clear palm router dust cover/vacuum port?

[@MichaelAlm]

It comes with the Milwaukee M18 palm router. Works really well!

[@ryanskeete]

Hey. This comment is about your safety glasses! Are those prescription safety glasses or are they just normal glasses with a side shield? I’m looking for a solution to keep the dust out of my eyeballs when wearing my glasses. 🤓

[@BrendanFalkowski]

Which dimmer switch did you install with those components? I bought nearly the same items to test: BTF COB strips (but 12v) and a plug-in 100W power supply. I got stuck trying to find information about pairing the driver to a dimmer switch. My kitchen is hardwired with a single-pole, non-dimmable switch connecting two runs of CFL tube surface-mount lights. I was trying to avoid putting a driver between each run on the switch, but I couldn't figure out if it should be that way because of the original electrical layout. Maybe better to consult an electrician?

[@mohammedal-balushi5410]

I really enjoy your videos Michael. Keep it up 😍😍. I am waiting for the pattern plywood, I have a feeling that you will do something great with it it in the kitchen ❤️❤️

[@MichaelAlm]

Thank you! More patterned ply soon 😉

[@mohammedal-balushi5410]

@@MichaelAlm 😍😍😍😍😍😍🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹

[@PanioNut]

Fun fact! Some LEDs can interfere with signal transmission. We put up LEDs in our garage and the garage door opener no longer works if the lights are on. Don’t ask how long it took us to figure that out…

[@TheDraconiuslives]

Beautiful!

[@FlokieLooney]

i just wanna comment on the fact you did call in a Tongue depressor, and not a Popsicle stick. that was a calculated choice of words there haha.

[@psywiped]

I'm always amazed at the lengths woodworkers will go to avoid trig. There called drivers because LED's are a current device and a good driver will keep the current constant. You will have an easier time soldering if you add more solder to the iron, the heat transfers more efficiently and helps the solder flow into the wire, if it's smoking your iron is to hot and vaporizing the flux which will also make it harder to solder. In the future you can use a low voltage box to land your wires into instead of having to go fishing for them later.

[@raze_r001]

whats the music you use in your b roles at the end

[@Flawed_Karma]

Germans call them "Trafo" as short for "Transformator"

[@RexS-f5s]

6:37 taxidermy eyes? 👀

[@johnniewalker39]

Yes, he does that, quite well actually!

[@bwhite220]

So good, my man!!!

[@thedabblingwarlock]

It probably doesn't matter with aluminum, but one of the things I've heard from the metal working and machining side of KZbin is that you shouldn't drag your file against the metal as it dulls the file faster. Most files cut in one direction so you cut, lift, reset, repeat. Just thought you might like to know. Also, these are going to look awesome.

[@joegibes]

Eh, that's a bit of an "old wives tale" (for crusty men with big gnarly hands) - you can look on youtube for actual tests of files dulling, and it's not conclusive. Especially for aluminum! The bigger concern is aluminum gumming up the file, so keep a file card (or a very stiff steel wire brush) on hand. Also, this is just my experience, but I either buy cheap hardware store files or garage sale old-but-quality files for $1 (or harbor freight needle/diamond files), so I'm not concerned with dulling at all! I suppose that it MIGHT be worth worrying about if you have some "good" files.

[@thedabblingwarlock]

@@joegibes I did day it probably doesn't matter with aluminum, but I can see it being an issue with steel, especially harder steels.

[@andresilva8444]

Any particular reason why you didn’t screw them from the bottom of the cabinets instead of from the valences? That would have been my choice as they would be less visible.

[@NickFabi]

For those of you who don’t have a “tongue depressor” knocking around at home just use a “ice lolly stick”

[@TAWei-hi6uv]

Nobody outside the UK calls them that.

[@KimberlyClark-z8b]

Schultz Common

[@dacharyzoo]

They are not called transformers because it's not a transformer, it's a switch mode DC power supply. Transformers are used for AC->AC conversion.

[@rhkips]

"So I set the miter saw to 55 degrees..." u wut Okay but seriously, you just sold me on a Festool miter saw. Just went to look at the price, and now I hate you. LOL Absolutely beautiful execution! Your kitchen is stunning, and it's really making me want to get my lazy butt up and start working on my kitchen reno!

[@coolbugfacts1234]

You won't regret it, the price is criminal but the features on it are incredible. For one thing, the dust collection actually works, and the hold down clamp is actually worth using unlike the garbage that comes with most saws. It's a rail forward saw so you can put it all the way up against a wall, it saves so much space in a small shop. To set the bevel angle, there's a locking lever on the back and then you turn one of the rails like a doorknob to microadjust, it can bevel up to 47 either direction, and it has detent stops at 45 and at 0. You can also cut dados/trenches with it, I haven't seen that feature in any other miter saw.

[@hansangb]

Dang. Michael can make a cabinet build video sexy 😮😅

[@bascodelagamma]

👍

[@robertfeliciano5723]

How soon before all this gets replaced with POE lines?

[@ElCidPhysics90]

I feel attacked, lol

[@1202jazzman]

Transformers control voltage levels for effective power distribution and device functioning, while LED drivers maintain the best possible performance and durability for LEDs.

[@dukkiegamer1733]

I'm surprised Rockler doesn't have any LED light stuff. Or at least you didn't use it. Since they sell a lot of stuff that Häfele also sells and they sell plug and play (solderless) LED lights. This works great though! And looks good too!

[@sherbyderb3074]

Taxidermy eyes, huh?

[@itsJoshW]

Those cabinets are too high lol

[@TheCarpenterGirl1984]

👍🎉🎉👍👍🎉

[@Stubones999]

using COB leds AND a diffuser is not a good combination. The COB leds already have a phosphorus diffuser in the COB layer over the LEDS to diffuse the light. They are also dimmer than non-COB leds. You might also make your connections from the various cabinets either in the attic or above the cabinet, so you can replace segments as needed without moving the cabinets.

[@FredMcIntyre]

😃👍🏼👊🏼

[@DillonSweet-e6s]

0224 Reichel Cliffs

[@riba2233]

??

[@IsmailNuzaifKokky]

.

[@Karaon]

1st