Grow Light Penetration is WRONG

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The concept of Grow Light Penetration has bugged me for years. Until now I have not really understood what was meant by the term. There are regular comments in videos that low optimum hanging height = a grow light with poor 'penetration'. This has regularly been commented about my own ARAY LED Grow Lights so I am especially motivated to debunk this misconception.
Link to ‪@LEDGardener‬ PAR test website: ppfdcharts.com/
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[@MIGROLIGHT]

Hi, Shane here. Thanks for watching, Please hit the like button and subscribe here: www.youtube.com/@MIGROLIGHT?sub_confirmation=1 Buy my Grow Lights here: migrolight.com/ Follow us on: Instagram:instagram.com/migrolight/ Facebook: facebook.com/MIGROLIGHT/ TikTok: www.tiktok.com/@migrolight

[@garywillow6578]

I can't believe anyone who has watched your videos and listened to your knowledge, has any doubt that your lights are the business. Your integrity screams out with every video.

[@timpage5021]

I just wanna say thank you Shane for your invaluable service to our community. And to the hard heads. Shane can’t even legally grow cannabis yet his wealth of knowledge and service and contributions to our craft help so many maximize their grow space potential. Something should be said to years of contributing knowledge he’s shared with all of us. So many would still be lost in the vastness of bro science otherwise.

[@kurt5490]

Absolutely.

[@TheflyingkiwiRC]

KZbin has given him a career doing this so that's got to be better than a regular job. Thanks enough?

[@timpage5021]

@@TheflyingkiwiRC this isn’t his career. He’s an engineer and was a light manufacturer long before KZbin. Any other light manufacturers cover the entire spectrum of growing like he does. No I think not so quit being a disrespectful prick.

[@Ledgrowlightsdepot]

Thanks for the video! As far as I understand it, penetration is not exactly the lights ability to push through leaves, but the difference in light intensity from the top of the canopy to the inside or lower part of the canopy. Higher intensity fixtures at a farther distance will push down farther into the lower part of the canopy assuming there is room (via trimming / defoliation) to do so. A light at, say, half the intensity and close to the canopy will have lower vertical penetration, but decent horizontal penetration. Growing in an open room with several fixtures will allow better vertical and horizontal penetration as the light comes in from several angles. Contrast this with growing in a tent with a single fixture: Vertical penetration may be good, but if the fixture is high above the canopy, the horizontal penetration will be low. If the fixture is lower, you are using a bar style fixture, and the plants are not too bushy, the vertical and horizontal penetration will be good. Overall, there are a lot of factors to consider with penetration and there is not a one-size-fits-all answer. -Erik

[@jeffsmith8065]

@@demsandlibsareswinecancer4667 i have a high power rail light,what height above the canopy would you suggest?

[@Str8GasGenetics]

That sounds nice in theory but its just not how light works.

[@bradg1226]

By the looks of it, theres enough light getting to the top 24 inches with 730ppdf to achieve results. Ramping up to the 830ppdf would allow enough light getting to the top 36ches increasing yield potential. Kinda makes more sense now

[@bradg1226]

The higher the intensity on the canopy without exceeding safe limits the taller u can grow them whilst recieving enough intensity down the side of a 2-3ft high cola 😂

[@Dodgerdoes]

You’ve done more for indoor growers than you know! Facts and information that are so useful to those who want to learn. Been watching you for years now. Big Thanks!

[@zumbaladin]

We must thank and salute Shaun's patience. I never thought I could get that interested in lighting science since I started growing "lettuce". Take care Shaun, and thanks again for sharing your knowledge (most people in this industry would just show off and pretend they sell the super duper never seen before LED technology with preposterous numbers coming off their foggy minds).

[@REON-pw5ze]

I mean, light is the most important issue when growing “lettuce”

[@timpage5021]

Absolutely. The guy can’t even legally grow cannabis but extremely helpful with invaluable information to help growers maximize their potential. 😊

[@Industrious420]

isn't his name Shane...?

[@zumbaladin]

@@Industrious420 My bad, and I knew it, my mistake surely comes from a joke I once made nicknaming him "Shane of the Leds" (in reference to Simon Pegg's movie).

[@PeterKKraus]

@@Industrious420 Sean means John in Gaelic. Lol.

[@TxRedMan]

When I think about grow light penetration for LED’s, I am thinking about the amount of PAR on the edges relative to the amount of PAR in the center. Ian, (Shaun! I’m so sorry if I just got your name wrong) my first grow was in 97 with a horizontal HPS fixture I built when I was 15. I haven’t done any studies, but I will say that I noticed a significant difference in the size of lower growth when I stopped supplementing with the horizontal 400’s. That was 20+ years ago though. Also, where I am in the US, tents aren’t as common as you might think. Basically if you have a basement, it’s 50/50. Btw, you’re the reason why I have a Maxsisun running in front of me as I type this. My next light will be from you, we need to support those who are active in our community!

[@laoluAD]

Love nerding out on this kind of knowledge, you can never know enough. It’s always nice to know why we do things, in this case defoliating. Helps apply it in ways that get better results. 🔥

[@jamescarlin569]

Same

[@bobmckee6120]

Thanks Shane. You are spot on, as always. The concept of the top leaves being solar panels is helpful. Maximize the density of leaves at the upper canopy, capture as much light as possible means we are mimicking a natural outdoor grow environment that the "lettuce" evolved in over the millennia. Your explanation of light penetration strongly suggests S.O.G. (sea of green) method in growing the crop. Thanks so much for your clarity in helping us optimizing our grows. It is the best way to maximize yield.

[@johnman559]

Clever....clevvvverrrr😉

[@katrinachristopher6416]

Shane you are spot on. To contribute... I think there were a lot of older growers in this industry that were saying LEDs did not have the same penetration as HID lighting. With older LEDs this may have been true in a way, but certainly not as we have seen here by your poll. Early LEDs did not have the green spectrum intact. With that, there was a diminished activity in the leaf structures due to only shallow tissue "penetration" occurring when the light hit the leaves. You illustrated this perfectly with one of your slides. Once the light package went to full spectrum, and then later with the addition of Far Red wavelengths, LEDs came into their own as a viable option vs. HID. As far as mechanical penetration goes shade is what it is. FACT - If an area is shaded from a light source the light intensity will be reduced in the shaded area regardless of what lighting type is used. Again... Having your multiple source light fixture (bar type lights vs. single quantum boards) means that light is available from multiple angles which minimizes shade areas. It is truly the best possible solution. Now what I would like to consider is it better to remove the blocked leaves off the bottom of the plant OR is it better to take off large leaves to let unblocked light down into the canopy..... Great Video!!

[@MIGROLIGHT]

Thanks.

[@junglie]

Better to remove all the lower weak shoots when coming into flower imho.

[@timturk1899]

Great video, once again Shane! As soon as you mentioned the topic, I remember the comment that caused confusion from the last video. Excellent!

[@rmcnasty7319]

I tried adding migro pro to all 4 side walls , lighting the lower shaded part. I had big sticky buds, down low. instead of small buds. If u have any old spare lights , I could use for my new ,Grow tent Test Video. This is what I call full penetration. Thank you for sharing your Videos.

[@charlesmiller7848]

Buy your own fucking lights like the rest of us. All you fucks want free lights. What makes you so fucking special that you deserve free lights?

[@greybush1976]

Takeaway........ defoliation and stripping unproductive budsites is your friend no matter what light you're using. If you have limited overhead room in your grow area and want uniformity in light spread and less intensity and hot spots, use a bar style. If you just want to saturate your plants with intense light and can manage hot spots over your canopy raising the fixture within smoke overhead space, use board style boards. Prune and thin foliage for best "penetration"of light and maintain a hanging height of fixture to maximize light coverage on the actual bud sites. Leaves are like solar panels to collect photons for energy, but they block the photons from effectively reaching anything below.

[@timturk1899]

Your comment described the video perfectly! If anyone was confused about anything, you summed it up perfectly.⚡👍⚡

[@GeofryMasters]

Defoliation means you take off ALL of the foliation. I hate it how cannabis growers completely misuse this term lmfao

[@Ian-jw1lr]

Very true, n u explained it way better✌️

[@roywarriner8441]

@@GeofryMasters it is not a misuse of the term. It is using the term in a different context. Are you just trying to find a use for a liberal arts diploma?

[@greybush1976]

@@GeofryMasters might just be your perspective of the word. I can't say that I've ever seen a definition of the word defoliate meaning ALL the leaves must be removed. In all reality, any grower in ANY industry would simply remove a desired amount of leaves to accomplish a cultivation goal. Defoliate, from many individual's perspective is just "the act of removing foliage". Pretty sure any widely accepted, official definition doesn't specify all foliage must be removed. If it makes you feel better and improves your perspective of cannabis growers, we can use the phrase "thinning foliage" or "opening up the canopy". Maybe just the phrase "removing leaves from a plant". Or, to simplify the phrase for commenting on the subject, a single word like defoliate could be used and individuals can simply take it for what it means. "To remove foliage". 🍻

[@oldpondfrog788]

You just keep delivering with the interesting info and explorations. Thanks for all your LED advocacy ____________________________£ The question arises about the importance of light hitting the leaves or the fruit; or the best combination of the two. And the best time to do any defoliation to facilitate light penetration/catchment by the most important parts. For my money the buds that don't get enough direct light do look lighter in colour and less appealing. Even if they do manage to swell as big as the higher calyxes. Lots to think about and play with as always.

[@p1ngu1no]

So much to learn. This should know every led gardener ."the stadium effect" I allways try to dispose my light like that. Placing on corners the spots and a square panel on the middle (with the panels I have)

[@StillFunBrewing]

Very cool talk. I think a lot of talk about LED light penetration stems from the days of blurple lights. Early models had little to no far red and no green spectrum. They were terrible at working with any tall plants. Slow undergrowth and lack of branching out because of “no penetration”. LED lights these days; especially yours, addresses those issues and there is plenty of efficient par and healthy plant response more similar to sunlight conditions. Keep rocking and rolling. Love the content.

[@timpage5021]

Blurple boxes had plenty of red and far red. Red LEDs are the most efficient and most widely used. They did have very little green and Shane just showed why it wasn’t as important to add green vrs 400 to 460 nanometer wavelength length. I guess it depends on which blurple boxes one is useibg too. But most used 12 bands which included 5000k white light LEDs and covered the entire spectrum needed. The problem with blurple boxes is the efficiency and the coverage ability. They had a huge fall off in par outside the physical shape of the light. Now fast forward to 2021-22. Light manufacturers are now adding more blue closer to 380 and 400 and 460 nanometer to their fixtures. Spectrum tuning is the next frontier.

[@sashamanbeast]

Very informative. Thanks. I have received the array 8 and I am going to install it soon. I'm excited for the even light distribution.

[@3x3me88]

I personally grow short plants, so I don't need much penetration and the lower the wattage the better. But for those that grow them taller and packed together, like commercial facilities, I would have to assume penetration matters. I would think the inner plants will not have access to reflection and therefore would have a lower par value. For me and most people though, there's plenty of penetration from low hanging efficient lights.

[@patricknolan3948]

The next question should be: Is it better to have a full plant canopy closest to the light or to have some openings to help develop the upper middle of the structure? Assuming you are hitting max useable ppfd, there might be an argument for creative pruning to let some light through the plant.

[@gokuzawa268]

I'm no expert but from what I've seen on grow videos that actually yield massily scroging and lolipoping (cutiing everything underneath the net) before stretch are the way to go. That way, the leaves on the net will create a barrier to prevent light from going under the net. Makes sense to me.

[@roberttomsiii3728]

Really enjoyed seeing the light measumemts from the spot on comparing canopy, direct under leaf, and other areas. Bruce and give charts all he wants and I'll look at them but watching some of the work going with it makes all the difference to me. It FEELS like there would be greater than 5% light penetrating the canopy. This video definitely changes my perception.

[@redshedllc9054]

Thanks for the video always will like watching yours as opposed to many other channels on lights Bruce bugby is a really cool one though. But I would love to get your opinion and maybe a full video on photo periodic control. Utilizing much less light duration while getting comparable and better results. I use 6 hours on and 18 hours off for my flower room and so far I'm really impressed with the yield for 6 hours. For vegetation I use 12 on 5 1/2 off one on five and a half off and same thing I get really good growth plans are always praying no matter what and I'm just curious why people don't push this light cycle further. I know longer light cycle means more use of water and nutrients and electricity and your time but is it necessary? And in my opinion I don't think so at all. Anyways thanks again and would love to hear back

[@KapRowMeat]

light penetration is not the actual light penetrating the leaf, rather how much light reaches the bottom. more shade less light penetration / less shade more light penetration

[@wesgregg6451]

I purposely sit through the advertisements that accompany your ads, lol. After reading (and responding to) some of the comments in one of your recent videos, I wondered if something on the subject would be forthcoming.

[@kushtank1]

Been waiting on this one! Amazing channel outstanding LED content keep doing great things sir! 🙏🌱💡

[@glockasauruswrex6362]

Thnx for the info, Shane. It's pretty simple tho...the leaves job is to absorb light. That's why we SCROG n spread her out so she's open to as much ligh as possible. I trim the bottom before flipping to flower, but leave it after that...popcorn buds still taste good 👍. You could light the bottom...but would the benefit outweigh the cost?

[@sparkysmalarkey]

I trim the bud sites below the canopy but I keep the fan leaves. The plant will decide when it no longer needs them. It also provides dump sites for excess nutrients and other waste they accidentally consume.

[@nickbaugh2034]

Remember the phototron? I would like to know what you seriously think of the phototron or maybe an updated version of it with LEDs that has light all the way up and down

[@lenharris336]

Great information. Watched a couple now and rapped in the quality and ease of understanding.

[@kellyhill4410]

Thank you so much for these light reviews , and the knowledge and information you passed to us. Really appreciate the time and energy you put into these videos. Brother you're going to have to speak up. I find when I watch your videos I'm constantly pushing the volume button. I'm not criticizing I just can't hear you

[@Dab_Marino]

Cheers Kelly 🔥u can never hear me either 😂 🤙🏻🔥👌💪

[@FanRamm2]

We need to talk about correct training technics for our led. From my opinion if you use COB’s you need sea of green technic for grow, 1 plant for 1 cob with optic lenses or reflector, if you use led stripes you need scrog and this is must have for every migro array users.

[@PoliPopo]

This was very interesting Your plants look amazing and I’m definitely going to get that par meter 💯 so glad I subbed.

[@halfpoundharvest7301]

So much info will have to watch a few more times to digest. Thank you for the knowledge good sir!!!

[@jakebrake7054]

What’s really interesting is long wave and short wave radiation. I’m doing a grow from seed, using a 105w LED SMD panel light with dim ability through a MeanWell driver and Samsung LM301H/B’s. I’m using an oil filled radiant type heat source in my 2’x4’x5’ grow tent. Two plants, one was pinched at the 3rd-4th node, I’ve trimmed it up into a canopy of lollipops. It has 3-main branches after I removed the fourth one due to a first timer mistake. That side has been facing the radiant heat source, and it’s growing out a replacement stem to take the place of the fallen limb. Knowing that heat needs to be introduced in with LED grow lights, I suspect that what the plants are then able to benefit from, is that long wave radiation buildup in the soil, as well as the invisible heat from the long wave radiation. When she goes outdoors, that’s the side that I’ll face due-south in my northern hemisphere. That way, it not only receives the short wave visible light, but also the long wave infrared radiation that the hardcore HID crowd long for.

[@jonathanwroe3023]

You're using a baby baby baby powered light and I assume about 12X more power on your heat source oil filled but still electric based radiator. It totally defeats the whole object. You're welcome 👍

[@denniskartes1302]

I do agree with the guy who can off as a prick. Instead of adding a 1500 watt radiant heater,why not add an old school 150w hps? You'd gain the ir heat,plus bump up your ppfd. So may also find by doing so, you'll be able to drop the power on you LEDs. I speak from experience. I used heaters like that,and still do during lights off times during the winter months. But I'll quickly throw an old school 400 w hps or MH up,and get rid of that 10 amp power hog as soon as temps allow. 🥂

[@TheflyingkiwiRC]

Or just use HPS when it's cold. Big big buds!

[@jakebrake7054]

Yeah, I totally hear all of you and this is my first grow so… In my defense, the heater is a small 300w unit. I’m really just experimenting with my understanding of light energy.

[@jonathanwroe3023]

I'm the guy who came off like a prick. If you have access to RO water (not standard water) then you can get a warm mist (warm not cold mist) humidifier using about 300w and add humidity to correlate with the VPD charts plus they definitely add a couple of degrees C to the tent. More if you get the fans and stuff done the best possible. The perfect humidity helps transpiration and makes nutes go further and you're drawing the same power for faster growing optimum plant growth. Food for thought

[@MJW1423]

Great video as usual chain I appreciate your time and effort have a good day God bless.

[@randylogan4339]

You are too good to us! ❤ I do wish it would have included a hps example so I can show the investors. Thanks again

[@SEMOJOESGROW]

Thanks everyone I’m a new grower with a lot of questions you all help alot thank you all

[@alikaperdue]

Maybe true for some. I pay 1/2 the rate you mentioned. HID systems components can be replaced individually, while LED can not. At current prices I feel HID makes sense for people like me. I don't see many talking about total cost over a longer time period which includes replacements assumed to be at current pricing.

[@poepflater]

I've always maintained the main advantage of LED lights is the source of cheap green light to penetrate the canopy. I'm about to start testing a single row strip fixture around the mid height

[@jonathanwroe3023]

Plants don't even use green light to grow! You can actually shine green light on your grow area during their dark period and it won't break the dark cycle because the light is literally invisible to plants. That's why people have solely green lighting to work in their rooms during the 12 hour dark periods. You're welcome to maintain that now 👍

[@frankb5728]

I hate arguing with stoners, I appreciate all the hard work you are doing for me. Thank you.

[@fadedmass1662]

I'd like to see the PAR loss going through a soft healthy cannibus leaf instead of a thick waxy leaf we see here. I think it's important to think of light penetration as a combination of these ideas talked about. Not one or another. It's a measure of PAR loss through the leaf. While also being a measure of how much PPFD the entire plant obsorbs. Not just the canopy height but every leaf top to bottom. Good luck measuring that. I visualize it as a three deminsional reading of PPFD. Different lights and thier individual spectrum should prove to give differing penetration.

[@yrntthelibswipedofftheeart16]

That is correct. Which is why people need to stop depending on their grow lights to grow for them and need to start being gardeners instead. You want penetration? Learn how to do canopy management. That's how you get proper penetration. But I think many people are frightened to manhandle their plants. Which I understand on such a sensitive plant for most people. I mean it is medicine after all and should be cared for properly.

[@fadedmass1662]

@@yrntthelibswipedofftheeart16 Fore sure, the right training technique creates its own light penetration. It also makes for stronger plants, with more terpenes, and bigger buds. Im sure these plant loves the abuse. I'm pruning leaves and bending branches over everyday right up to mid flower. The whole time thinking about the light penetration. Also I've haven't had any pests or molds, without ever using any sprays.

[@TheIronMonkey616]

Thanks for dropping knowledge on us very useful to know particularly as I've recently invested in a Migro Array 3, so far it has been excellent despite the heatwave conditions, I look forward to seeing how it performs through a full cycle. Thanks again for clarifying a much debated subject 👍

[@MIGROLIGHT]

Thanks.

[@Zardnokalicious]

The logical progression here would be to test side lighting or bottom lighting in conjunction with traditional top-lighting. The Migro-Arry bars would seem to be an awesome option to test in this manner.

[@dertythegrower]

Thanks again for the work you do Shane 💯

[@3star2nr]

Can you make a video on adding supplemental lighting or up lighting?

[@lessmigrantsmorewalls8392]

Hey Shane, will you ever make a in-depth review of your own light 5x5?

[@droozilla8803]

Educational and well put together as usual

[@andrej7593]

So your light has a recommended hanging hight lower then other lights because it is spread so well and other lights would underperform at such low highs? So being able to hang it so low with same spread as other lights at higher hanging heights then in return icreases the efficiency? Thank you!

[@user-ig7gx8ii6w]

8:01 do you like the spectrometer Asensetek? Can you recommend it? How does it compare in terms of accuracy to Apogee?

[@kiprock2383]

Thanks Shane, great information as always

[@toddconley6065]

I'm curious I have 2 grow light science 200w in a 4x5 if I added my hlg 300w into same tent would that offset the spectrum from GLS or would hlg work synergistically? obviously not full power. BTW I was going to get ES180 but saw your vid on GLS and grabbed 2

[@paulchrystie5460]

xlnt Reminds me of the old saying.... Leaves are either motors or batteries depending on their position relative to the light. Batteries are useful for a crisis. But Motors get you more bang for buck.

[@user-ig7gx8ii6w]

You have beautiful stands with plants in the background! But why didn't you paint them white? Why grey?

[@pjarma8536]

Thank you for the research. I don’t see other light companies so honestly as yours.

[@cancer_sucks]

def want to try a light under the canopy. i wonder if this would negate the need to lollypop so aggressively

[@HydroKulture]

What are those plants you're growing at the 11th minute mark where you doing the par test

[@benjamindixon4693]

Wot about the electric sky 180v3? With its linner lenses is there any extra light getting down there with them ? They kinda say it's really good performance for this stuff. Just a thought 💭

[@joshuaharris1194]

Man id like to see some Opticled testing, i run a couple of the 650s lights. As well i have 2 of the gmax 150's...ive seen almost every other light tested on here??

[@roberttomsiii3728]

Nice! I'm never this early to a video release of someone I follow.

[@OffGridandOutdoors]

What device did you use to connect to the phone to produce the light spectrum chart. Also where is the video u mentioned?

[@youtubeuser4027]

Just bought an optic led 720 slim,I'd love to see some information about this light.it looks like a beast,I can't wait to get growing under it!! Thnx😁

[@kellyhouston9067]

These optic lights are great , the 720 is a beast, love the spectrum controls, 3 individual dimmers!

[@magusomega]

I didn't realize how many times uh gets said until I tried to watch this video on lunch on a busy construction site with the subtitles on. Great video just something I would have never noticed without the deafening roar of a bulldozer about 50 ft away.

[@PsychonautFPV]

Excellent information Shane! thanks a lot. 💚

[@jackkushner8026]

The one question i always have as far as trimming everything on the lower parts of the plant aka lollipopping is whether we even have any proof that the plant isn't getting enough light absorbed through the higher canopy that is receiving the majority of the light tand getting everything it needs to cover the energy requirements of producing flowers above and extra to distribute in the plant to areas below the main canopy or, if it is costing us yields and quality on the higher up flowers, where the exact distance from the light/ or amount of lower flowering sites kept in an area where the light is not penetrating to, begin to cause a diminishing return due to the loss of yield or other measurable desirable traits in the top canopy is greater than the additional yield etc gained by having the additional sites being left on to produce additional flower mass. i see this as especially useful information if growing for extracts because if all we are doing is trying to gethe highest yield of actual trichomes than whether larfy lower buds or perfect pretty dense colas is irrelevant. hope that makes sense ...

[@willtremblay]

Hey man, it has been studied. Look up shape matters plant architecture affects chemical uniformity in large size cannabis plants. There is an argument for pruning lower branches and doing leaf removal in the top third when growing for packageable dried flower. These methods are shown to greatly increases the potency of lower buds and the chemical yniformity of all buds while yielding statistically not significantly less than control. The plant seems to genuinely redirect yield to the tops, and more uniformly. The study found a higher amount of biomass and total thc from topping the plants twice with no pruning, however this resulted in the lowest chemical uniformity score. Interesting stuff and really validates the industry standard pruning methods

[@jackkushner8026]

​@@willtremblay its a relief to know i wasnt pruning for nothing. anything about whether theres any positive effect from light directly hitting bud sites or if energy is oly absobed by leaves and theres no benefit to timming leaves ff to get more sun exodsure on actual flowering sites ?

[@koyaanisqatsi78]

Are you sure about side lighting? as this is something I've always wanted to try as I would think there's always branches and buds that are underdeveloped because they don't have access to light, and if you open things up or bend them into the light suddenly they take off. I would think having sidelights would develop the layers under the top canopy more.

[@MIGROLIGHT]

Hi, Side lighting will increase yield but you will not the a good return versus the extra power consumed. Thanks.

[@scottinsierras2945]

Just looking up at your lights from below you can see the lights just don’t penetrate down. Even with stripping the leaves below. Im using in my 4x4 ROI-E680. How much of un wanted leaves can we remove without damaging or starving your plant. Bro science says 1/3?? Maybe more?

[@youtubeuser4027]

Idk I'd like to see some side lighting I've seen ppl do it on fb,but I don't know if it really helped or not.

[@yrntthelibswipedofftheeart16]

For those of you who want to see penetration from a fixture look at Hicksford farms in Oklahoma using optic LED. They have easily 4 ft of usable Bud production on all their plants because of the light penetration from The lensed cobs. I still think there is more to this than meets the eye considering some fixtures can give you 3 ft and 4 ft colas and some cannot. Regardless of no canopy management.

[@jesusc4384]

Once again, thank you for providing all this great info!

[@Redzeronova]

Thank you for continuing putting out great information.

[@xyexz]

For a vertical garden like Green Stalk - would you recommend vertical lighting in a grow tent with reflective interior or would hanging light still work?

[@MIGROLIGHT]

Hi, Mounting the lights in a vertical setup would give you more height to grow. Thanks.

[@williampeters7730]

I'm new to grow lights and can't realy afford the more expensive lights, plus they would probably be wasted on me since I'll be making novice mistakes on many aspects of my first grow. I realy get a lot of usable info from Shaun and even though I can't get the best lights I kinda know what I'm looking for in a budget light so I can at least get the most bang for my buck. I settled on two ac Infinity s22's for a 2'x4' area. On sale for 420 @ $90 a piece. Does anybody think I could have done better? I still second guess my purchases and my newly learn knowledge. Thanks for more great info

[@HAPPYHERBS1]

Nah they are decent lights and at that price you cant complain

[@yeahnahsweetas]

Cheers Shane, just getting my closet grow going again after a break. On day 8 and they're off to the races!

[@yeahnahsweetas]

@@robmadsen5732 Thanks Rob, had a feeling that wasn't Shane! 🤣

[@crash4215]

Imagine el sol iluminando desde el amanecer en diferentes ángulos, el sol va cambiando de ángulo de la luz. En fotografía sucede lo mismo, usted debe colocar flashes 1 o 2 a 45° para iluminar un objeto y compensar la sombra. Estoy imaginando colocar luces de cultivo a 45° en lugar de colocarlas sobre la planta. Espero poder ayudar

[@thecowman6807]

If you have the time to experiment or already have the knowledge, could you please make a video on LED grow lights and photobleaching? I've been experimenting with this for a few months and I came to the conclusion that the common consensus of it being entirely dependant on light intensity or blue light intensity is wrong. I have been testing with a variety of lamps, ViparSpectra P600, Spider Farmer SF1000, a sanlight Q1, and some DIY's. My main tests I did with the VS P600 because I noticed that light causes photobleaching the easiest out of all my lamps. I found out that if I add extra far-red light (740nm) with the P600, my plants can withstand more light without photobleaching. The same happened when I added more red (630nm) and deep red (660nm). A few days ago I started testing if IR light in the 800 range (850nm to be exact) would also help, but it's still too early to tell and I only have 1 850nm LED. I would love to hear if you already have any experience or knowledge on this? Also the migro lights seem to be impossible to find in Germany. Buying from the UK is no longer an option due to the customs charge nowadays.

[@deelarso3766]

I think migro is Dublin based so ROI and part of EU. Should be no custom charges?

[@thecowman6807]

@@deelarso3766 Holy crap you're right. For some reason last time I tried to buy their UVB light I got the idea it was from the UK. Thanks dude

[@meathunterreloading4107]

Great work,The szhlux pt series led's price and performance seem a little too good to be true.It would be nice to see some 3rd party tests done..Maybe they'll send you a freebie😁

[@tylerm0089]

The world simply needs more unbiased information. Period.

[@wesleyaspinall]

I have a random question. Once I've remove, the plastic cap, from light bulb can I change the spectrum by colouring in the LEDs with a red/blue sharpy 🙂

[@MIGROLIGHT]

Hi, No a phosphorus coating on the LED diodes is what changes the color temperature.

[@Eric-dz1we]

Thank you for taking about your lights

[@jerryn727]

Is there any testing done with highly efficient green spectrum for the penetration. I remember one of your videos where you used a spectrometer under the canopy of a tree and green had the best penetration. Do you know if there are any manufacturers that make a green boost strip?

[@dylanmonahan5909]

Cutter in Australia make strips in green or any other spectrum aimed at aquariums or for supplementary lighting of controlled crops, though people generally want green in order to illuminate grow spaces with minimal risk of interrupting day/night cycle. White light has enough green to be effective, though it is interesting to see what influence individual or narrow wavelengths if you are able to replicate conditions suitable for scientific experimentation. I believe some types of lettuce actually benefit from more green light, for example,

[@SoNoFTheMoSt]

Wow that bruce bugbee slide is really awesome, god damn thats soo cool!!

[@bliss2392]

How about HPS light penetration? Would the numbers fall just as much?

[@doktorhunggari4415]

Do you have an E-par sensor Shane? It would be interesting to see how much 730nm gets thru a thick canopy as well don't you think?✌️

[@MIGROLIGHT]

Hi, Yes we test every light now with an E-par Apogee sensor

[@jonnygrowlately]

couple years ago the "community" started saying PAR is not the proper measurement of light intensity... is that still a thing?? Just like anything else anymore i dont know what to believe

[@nurfuerverrueckte]

This was very educational, thank you Shane.

[@jblazer2492]

Do all plants absorb similar levels of PAR at the canopy level?

[@hazycrazy420]

Thanks , these information is very helpful

[@theAussie01]

Extremely interesting knowledge... ........thankyou. MIGRO 🌺

[@lukeaaron5588]

Nice demonstration, I've often wondered about the different light set-ups and their effectiveness. Still curious tho as different plants have a preference for different conditions and perform better with a wider variety of wavelengths at differing stages of growth, not to mention the diffence in photosynthesis rates between tropical and arid plants in high and low humidity climates. My point is... there is no wrong or right answer as it comes down to what you are trying to achieve.

[@lukeaaron5588]

Is that a phone number?

[@maximosh]

Light penetration isn't really an issue with a leaf managed crop. If larger leaves are shading flower sites below then those leaves ought to be removed. A good growers saying is that you are growing flower buds, not leaves. This management regime allows for maximum light penetration at all times.

[@royrobles6555]

Thank you for all you do

[@SeatSniffer2000]

Intensity of light is inversely proportional to the square of the distance. This is physics. It's not complex.

[@shaunm1983]

Do you think people are wasting their time by defoliating leaves so the bud sights underneath can receive direct light?

[@wesgregg6451]

GREAT - now do a part 2 to explain why tearing off 1/3 of the upper leaves "so more light can get down there" makes about as much sense as sawing off your legs in Winter so you can use your socks for gloves.

[@willtremblay]

Hey man, you may want to read "shape matters: plant architecture affects chemical uniformity in large-size medical cannabis plants". Its a recent peer reviewed study available to freely read online. Removing some of the older large leaves from the top of the canopy a few weeks before harvest to increase localized photosynthesis in your middle buds promotes chemical uniformity across the plant. Your lowers ripen up and have higher cannabinoid percentages. Leaves photosynthesize less efficiently as they get older and localized photosynthesis in the bud sites affects ripening greatly. Plants have extra leaves as they expect to lose some to pest pressure. You may not yield more overall, but you wont yield significantly less, and youll have a lot more marketable flower for packaging and less larf. A combination of removal of the absolute bottoms, and a thinning of the top three weeks before harvest, resulted in by far the highest plant chemical uniformity and very close to the yield of control. It is the industry standard practice for a reason.

[@jpflex68]

@@willtremblay that's the point, no one wants a beautiful bokeah of leaves and a lot of larf

[@zmndrf]

So could you use a 240 watt 3x3 19inch x19inch in a 2x2 tent and be ok or is it overkill?

[@MIGROLIGHT]

Hi, 240 watts is overkill for a 2x2 but fine for a 3x3 Thanks.

[@cavbarjones5946]

Awesome information about lights I appreciate your time 💚

[@cavbarjones5946]

😂

[@dertythegrower]

The proof is in the video... this is why i prefer youtube over other content apps of edited pictures that people use lately...

[@pete7894]

Is there any real value to side lighting ?.

[@Wesmancan]

I have considered vertical lighting or a light shining up by my grows are getting so good I don’t wanna break the mojo.

[@markrigg6623]

The inverse square law is the biggest factor in all of this, and its the same no matter what sort of light being used.

[@revoltoff]

Very good video but I miss a conclcusion. Still, this video is very good