MASON MIX (TYPE "S" - "N") REVIEW (Mike Haduck)

I do a review on mason mix (pre-mix) just add water, I use a quikrete product for my example and give my own opinions from my experience. All my videos are my ways and ideas, I always suggest anyone doing any type of work to consult professional help
tee shirts , etc.teespring.com/...
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web site - mikehaduck.com/

[@jamie.777]

This man is a example of a EXCELLENT construction worker teacher. When i was young, i had Cruel evil fireman

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Jamie, Mike

[@mjnm5713]

Thank you for sharing your experience. Living in southwest New Mexico, I found myself with holes in my perimeter rock walls. I received an average work estimate to refill the rock wall holes for the sum of $1000.00 Being retired, I decided to try my hand and fill them myself with mortar "N" with a strengthening additive; armed with a bag, a trowel, gloves, a wet sponge, a chisel and stone hammer, my cost was under $70.00. I filled my rock wall holes with motar and rock found on my property. Thanks again!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks JM, I appreciate it, Mike

[@bonniesanford8910]

Dear Mike, Thank you again for the great lessons on masonry. Hope to start my basement walkout project sometime before the end of summer and all your teaching is very helpful. Already finished the glass block windows in the basement and they came out beautiful--all with vents. God bless you and your family.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Bonnie, God bless also, Mike

[@brianteunessen85]

I'm a drywall finisher by trade , but I have an old house from the 1880's and I do a lot of stone repair work around the old place , so your videos are quite helpful and interesting. Thank you from one craftsman to another

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Brian, I appreciate it, Mike

[@KurtisHord]

Use hot mixed mortars Mike has no portfolio. He can’t even show his face in the hometown…. I can only look around and see permanent work.

[@jaysiclec5860]

Mike, I have been watching since 2014. You have helped me defeat inhibition to start and gave me the confidence to complete several outdoor projects around my house here in Canada. Very similar climate here vs. PA.. Each of the projects are still standing, working and generally looking really good. Thank-you for entertaining, and enlightening us !!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Jay, I appreciate hearing that, Mike

[@nfuryboss]

Best masonry channel I used to do repairs on my brick walls.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks BK, Mike

[@billmiller7138]

I lived next to an interior and exterior Plasterer when I was kid. I remember them counting shovelfuls of sand loading trucks, then loading up bags of lime and cement. Different colors of sand for different stucco. And heard them discussing different mixes for different jobs. Thanks Mike, always interesting!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Bill, Mike

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

very good title and thumbnail mike, I make concrete videos too,but no where near as big as u on youtube. maybe someday, untill then keep up the good work 👍

[@dangates3022]

just subscribed i think there are things you can do to get you in the algorithms for you tube on the searches. like for example your wording like how to pour a side walk. etc. you have some good videos there cant see why the subs are not there.

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

@@dangates3022 thank u dan, I appreciate it. I work really hard on them. it may not be like mikes video, he has been doing this for years I actually started during last year spring time, I like the videos like Mike did, maybe I will do some more w out music and see how they go

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

@@dangates3022 i have a video that ranks but for something that not a ton of people search for,but I make about 1.50 to $2 a day off youtube. nothing to write home about lol

[@dangates3022]

@@GRUBB-MUDD NP i watch a lot of you tube. i look at a lot of people i follow on you tube, their subs likes and views. to see where they are at and if they are growing. and you do have to work hard to get the subs. but you tube has to put you in the search to get you out there. in my opinion. how that happens is anyone's guess. yeah mike has been around a long time i give him that, but i think he should have way more subs and views than he has. there are people out there with a million plus. vise grip gayrodge, scotty kilmer. viva i have been watching he's not in the trades a political commenter but he worked hard to increase his subs from 75k to 500k. he did go and report on the truckers in Ottawa and called out his channel to them the people there. and he did shout out other channels too who he met. i guess having your self on fb, rumble and other social media will help too. because they will put you in their feeds. most i follow in the trades have at least FB accounts a long with youtube. i also see people have channel's they support in their bio. and that's how i find some content also. like - watch wess work, this old tony and a friend of mine Norcal715, he does an electronics channel has been on the tubes for 10 plus years but has no views or subs, does atleast one show weekly, but that content i'snt that interesting to most people. i think if you keep at it you will succeed. anything in the trades should peak peoples interest's. i'm a journeyman - millwright/industrial mechanic. and am always looking to go next level on my skills. you can't retain it all. but i know when I'm doing a masonry jobs i look at mikes videos for a reference and to jog my memory. keep at it you will get there

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

@@dangates3022 thanks Dan, yeah I mainly do it for fun, I would like to do some colabs w big creators and small creators just because I think that would be alot of fun, I post usually 1 video per week, I used to do more but I have slowed down I'm not gona lie. I have some loyal viewers , but I changed the style of content I was making which kinda hurt my channel, but mostly I do it 4 fun right now

[@ericawalling2716]

“If you don’t get it after that I can’t help you “ love it! Love all your videos. I’ve learned so much. Thanks for sharing

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks again Erica, Mike

[@biffmalibu3733]

I use premix for convenience. I am by no means a pro just an experienced DIYer. I use type S for most work unless it involves stone. Not sure if it was right but after 10 years my garage and house foundation are still standing. I was always told type S for below grade and N is only for above grade and never thought twice about it. Thanks for giving me a better understanding of the mixes.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks biff,, Mike

[@dm747]

Thank you Mike for explaining the difference between type “S” and type “N”. This is something that I have wondered about for years now and nobody had been able to give me a real answer that would make sense until I viewed your video! Thank you again and I enjoy your KZbin posts so much. I learn a lot from you. Keep up the good work!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Don, I appreciate it, Mike

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Don, Mike

[@bonanzatime]

You must have talked to NCMA!😂

[@thinkford]

My daughter said to me yesterday why is there a chunk missing and a hole in our entryway steps? I said well Mike would say see that metal bar thats all rusted in there... Well water got in there rusted the metal expanded it and busted up the concrete! Now that i know how to fix it i may include her in the repair but she is a teenager so will probably lose interest fast! Lol

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Dale, get her working, Mike

[@kevincowan7131]

Mike would you use type s or type n for pargng a foundation 120 years old with old.lime mortar ?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Kevin, I got a playlist " foundation repair" and another " stone foundation repair" I show what I use in each circumstance, thanks Mike

[@johnknipe5752]

Mike is the best!! Super knowledgeable. I’m a hard scape guy. For last 20 years but Michael has honestly taught me so many tricks of the trade I am so thankful for him!! God bless you Mike you’re the best bro

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks John, I appreciate hearing that, God bless, Mike

[@spelunkerd]

What do you use for fixing castellation of new concrete for better cosmetic appearance?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, I don't know what you mean castellation, I have lots of videos on concrete repair or painting with portland or foundation repair, those techniques might help, thanks, Mike

[@T.E.P.]

These reviews are always helpful and it’s a huge strength of your channel that you review the materials many times. Thank you Mike and hope you have a terrific weekend

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Thor, Mike

[@patrickcooley6849]

As unusual, great video Mike. Currently doing a major restoration on a big carriage house built in 1899. The brick made then were of course pretty darn soft compared to today's brick so I've been adding sand to the Type S SpecMix. Limestone restoration of course a weaker mix is desired so I'll use Type N indoors and Type S outdoors. What I personnel gleaned from your video is that Type N is stronger than I thought. What I thought was Type N until now is actually Type O and I've personnel never seen Type O mix for sale. But as you like to say--we should have the basic masonry skill to mix our own.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Patrick, Mike

[@patrickcooley6849]

As usual, great video. Sorry Mike. I need to learn how to spell.

[@daleaitchiso1640]

Lime mortar was used to allow masonry buildings to breathe. The lime mortar works like a wick, through capillary action, draws moisture through the walls. Portland cement found in Type N/S/O mortars become a barrier to moisture movement. Lime mortar makes a difference in certain buildings. We have 120 yr houses double brick, Lime mortar, 0 insulation in the walls, Southern Ontario

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Dale, I have a video out called " lime ,mortar or portland " what should I use? Mike haduck, thanks

[@NUMENOREAN91]

There's a big difference between hydrated lime and natural hydraulic lime. Look into this it will clear up confusion between what's sold here in America and what's being used in Europe. Only place I know to get NHL here is from limeworks in lancastor PA. Hydrated lime is more so just a workability agent in Portland based mortar. Hot lime that has been slaked is a different chemical makeup. Hydrated lime has is lime that had enough water added to then dry it into a powder. Read up on this.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Mike

[@genetownsend8847]

Sounds like a cold house

[@danknugz7605]

I live in sault ste marie and my aunt lives in a stone house from 1881 and it beautiful but has a musty smell which is common with real stone houses

[@shadrickwilson8115]

Thanks for this great video Mike. Really helps connect the dots in the trade. It's interesting to hear you mention adobe and other historical practices. Are you familiar with modern "natural building practices" like strawbale homes and earth plaster? It would be interesting to hear your thoughts on different techniques using only natural materials.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Shadrick. Mostly the old school stuff, but I keep my eyes open, thanks Mike

[@troybowman3121]

Thank you Mike, I didn't know shit about joint mortar until I watched your video. All I wanted is to build a retaining wall here in the south, and I feel as I could teach someone about block mortar. Thanks Again. keep speaking to us stupid people.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Troy, I am still learning myself, thanks Mike

[@JesusLopez-yx8lc]

Mike, sir. My respect to you sir. You're full of knowledge and have showed me a lot. Thank you for taking the time to teach and demonstrate. God bless 🙌

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, God bless, happy new year, Mike

[@gregeconomeier1476]

Many years ago I managed some property in the French Quarter of New Oleans. Construction there is very controlled. I needed to tuck point a brick building and my permit said to use 12 parts sand to mortor. I didn't underrstand at the time but complied. Later I discovered this mix is used because the bouldings are old and the foundations are constantly experiencing differential settlement. The weak mix prevents spalling or otherwise cracking the brick as the building shifts about. As you say Mike, what works here doesn't work over there. Good video!!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Greg, I agree, and down there the frost don't do the damage like in the north, thanks Mike

[@gigglesaregood]

I love this channel, this is the best series of tutorials on KZbin for masonry. Thanks for the great work. Cheers.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks CAMERON, Mike

[@jonp2171]

Hi Mike. When parging a chimney do you recommend 2 to 1 sand/portland or would you throw some S mortar in there?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Jon, usually what I use on my foundation videos, thanks Mike

[@63flight]

Just use type S with sand 2 to 1. Forget the word portland and just use the type S. It's some strong stuff, we used type S for almost everything👍.

[@Rubedo777]

Thanks Mike I like watching you… your a maestro in this work. You have a great style of presentation. Because of you I’ve gained the confidence to do small jobs. “builders” have been to my home but I was foolish lacking any experience and got ripped off badly, should have seen it coming when they took their spurs off the boots. You live and learn. Thanks you are a good man. From the UK.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Rubedo, Mike

[@ranger178]

those goofs working at Home Depot told me to put flagstone walkway to front step and bluestone over concrete steps with mortar mix and it began crumbling after a few years. so, i redid it all with the sand Portland mix you use now it is still good as new

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Greg, Mike

[@NUMENOREAN91]

Look into the difference between Hydrated lime and Natural Hydraulic lime. NHL is what's used in Europe. You can get it from Limeworks in Lancastor PA.

[@jppalm3944]

Homedepot unqualified idiots. Refuse to say I DON'T KNOW

[@saviotoronto358]

thanks for posting, had a couple people ask me about different types of concrete mixes

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Savio, Mike

[@jeffreyallanmiller2646]

Thanks for the video. Now I know the difference. I'm going to try to remember by thinking Type S is Stronger, and Type N is 50/50, in the middle, like the letter N is in the middle of the alphabet. Thanks again, Mike.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, Mike

[@paulsautocm]

More food for thought, thanks for sharing valuable your thoughts.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Paul, Mike

[@MEGAONE302]

Old video repost

[@MEGAONE302]

I still like it, thank you.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, Mike

[@markvitka9885]

Hi Mike, can you explain and talk about sand topping mix. I’ve seen it used to repair damaged concrete and it seems to hold up. What’s in it?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Mark, I am still a bit old school, I haven't used that product yet, thanks Mike

[@maxmartins8813]

I like your videos , thanks for posting them !!! we do masonry restoration work here in Massachusetts and i have used those 2 types of bags of type s mortar too, the only differences i noticed about them is the color and the GREEN bag has a " thinner " sand and i prefer to use it for pointing skinny joints because the other mortar has more coarse sand and it makes it almost impossible to point some skinny joints of bricks like they have here in boston ,although not too many places sell the green bag anymore! thanks for posting your videos ,you're the best !

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Max, I appreciate hearing that, Mike

[@Katana_00]

Hi Max, I’m in Boston working on a fieldstone repointing. Do you use type S for this? What are your thoughts?

[@mattjjacob]

We use type S for the stone foundation and then type N for tuckpointing the brick (softer historic brick) in Cincy. Great video!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Matt, Mike

[@mikemasters4382]

That's what I did as well in the Northeast. From what I researched type S contains additives to help it adhere and gives it more flexibility. House built in 1870.

[@Katana_00]

@@mikemasters4382 How did your repair go?

[@mikemasters4382]

@katrina, repairs went very well, no leaks as of now and it looks a lot better

[@Brian-Burke]

Another great informative video, Mike. M.H.S.O.H.K. Best education for the cost!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Brian, Mike

[@T.E.P..]

sooo much great info you publish on the channel .. and think it's great you republish some of the older content and refresh it again with new vids. You've done soooo much work already and these reviews refreshed are a HUGE delight. Thanks again Mike. Hope you get some fun travels in again this year. Thank you for this channel.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Thor, Mike

[@mainetroutwhisperer]

Thank you for doing this. I’m just a home owner looking to patch up some joints on my stone chimney. I live in Maine. Sounds like either would be fine to use?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, I have a playlist "chimney repair" Mike haduck ,I show what I use in each video, thanks Mike

[@loukeeper9997]

Hey Mike great videos that we all appreciate! Question. Going to lay a slate flagstone type patio over existing concrete. All spalling has been repaired to your standards. Do you recommend using or adding hydrated lime to the Portland sand mix the the stone gets set in? Thank you!

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Lou, I never use any lime in stone patios, in my area it does not hold up, check out my stone patio videos, my opinion , thanks Mike

[@loukeeper9997]

Thank you! So in watching your patio video, looks like you don’t measure how thick the mortar is. You obtain the pitch for water run off. Is there a certain thickness the mortar bed should be for these slate/flagstone when placed over repaired existing concrete patio? Thanks again!

[@Katana_00]

Hi Mike, Have you ever seen a stone wall fail do to type S being using vs Lime?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Katrina, I have a video out called " lime, mortar or portland? What should I use? Mike haduck, that might help, thanks Mike

[@jonathanwalker6521]

Love your videos, great and helpful knowledge, thanks.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Jonathan, Mike

[@roccoconte2960]

Great video Mike always wanted to know the differences in motor .

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Rocco, Mike

[@dazuk1969]

Hey Mike, really cool to see a vid from ya. I tell ya what Mike, I am of Irish decent and grew up on construction sites in the UK. My Dad (the Boss) would tell them to throw me off the first floor when I was 4/5 years old. He would ALWAYS catch me.....THAT is a cool Dad. When it comes to mixes....3 shovels soft sand....one shovel Portland. God bless n peace to ya.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Darren, Mike

[@juliagl5790]

Hi Mike I live in Virginia in a old farmhouses from the 1940s. The foundation is cracking and the material looks like sand with the outside like brick clay. How would I got about fixing this? Specifically what materials should I be using? Julia

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Julia, I have a whole series called, repoiting stonework, that should help, thanks Mike

[@spanzek]

Thanks Mike! Very informative. Still a little confused on the difference between lime and portland. I’ll check out your other video. Thanks you!

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Scott, it's called "lime mortar or portland," What should I Use? Mike haduck

[@harishveeramani2907]

Great review, Mike! Very helpful. Cheers!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Harish, Mike

[@brianfogarty8838]

Hey Mike great videos...if you have Portland sand and mortar...what's the mortar part consist of? Thanks

[@gibsonbuilds4841]

Same question? I'm thinking he is calling the lime the mortar but idk. It's the only other ingredient in the conversation lol

[@brickbybric]

The mortar part is masonry cement . It’s a pre blended mix of lime and Portland cement( that American brickys commonly refer to as mortar) . So if you were to mix mortar type s from scratch ( separate bag of Portland cement , lime and sand . You mix 2 parts Portland cement 1 part lime and 9 parts sand . In the USA you can purchase bags of masonry cement . So if you purchase a bag of type s masonry cement to make type s mortar you add 3 parts sand and 1 part masonry cement to the mix and proportionally your mix is 2 parts Portland cement 1 part lime and 9 parts sand .

[@brickbybric]

@@gibsonbuilds4841 when he refers to his fathers time I believe when he mentioned mortar he was referring to lime .

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Brian, I agree with the comments, thanks Mike

[@brianfogarty8838]

I appreciate the information everyone. Keep.pumping out those videos Mike. Great stuff.

[@elliotthomas3423]

Hi Mike, thanks for the video! If I want to stucco over my indoor garage cinder block wall, would type s be a good product to use in your opinion?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Elliott, I am not there to see it, so it's hard to say, thanks Mike

[@deelula3259]

The s type works good for floor leveling also

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Dee, Mike

[@OramiIT]

Thanks for the video I am planning on doing a little brickwork tomorrow the old mortar is crumbling and the bricks just lift off the chimney. This gives me some insight as to what I am dealing with. I am in North Texas (we do freeze just not often), but I like how you presented this great job.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Orman, I have a playlist on chimney repair, and others on repoiting brickwork, that might help. Thanks Mike

[@OramiIT]

@@MikeHaduck My main concern is how far down I need to take the chimney to do a proper repair. The mortar crumbles in my hand. I dressed the bricks up with a cold chisel and a hammer yesterday and took it down until the mortar was hard and seemed to be good quality(that is what made sense to me at least). Someone at some point did a little repair but they really just slapped 1/8" of new mortar on the side and called it a day.

[@suep4530]

Again...so much knowledge there!! I never realized there were so many different types. Interesting video.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Sue, Mike

[@jeffdeluca1153]

Hi Mike.. hope all is well. Im confused. I live in Pa in Hershey. I need to repoint my chimney. My house is double brick construction, so the brick is load bearing. For the chimney, Im reading type S is too strong and could possible damage the brick due to expansion. Should I be using type N? Also when repiinting the house walls, being they are structural, should i use type S for repointing? H E L P Thanks again Jeff

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Jeff, I have a whole playlist on "chimney repair" and others on "foundation repair" I show what I use in each circumstance, thanks Mike

[@jwil4905]

Hey Mike, another good video. Always seems to me the Type N tends to "powder" more the next day. Might be giving it too much water, but the N just seems significantly weaker to me.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi J, I am not a fan of n mortar in my area, every situation is different, I mostly use my own mixes but it's OK for certain things, thanks Mike

[@texan3frisco812]

No big deal 👍

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Texan, Mike

[@thomasglessner6067]

Mike, Love watching your presentations. You are a great teacher. I have a block and brick job coming up and I feel ready to go. Thanks for all the work you do. MHSOHK university.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Thomas, Mike

[@2476222]

I did enjoy it, very much. God bless you Mike! You look great! I've been online all day and night trying to figure out what I can do instead of tiling. I was prepared to tile but realized the porcelain I bought on sale for $12 to do my tub surround required a $50blade $40hole saw and $36 bag of modified mortar. So I thought, I've already got the hardi board up, can I make the tub surround in cement and stain polish and seal it. Would that work and what product for the cement ... Uggh. I only have about $100to work with.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi 247, I would usually tile or fiberglass it, thanks Mike

[@wisconsinwoodsman1987]

Seems like it ain’t no big deal.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, Mike

[@tobywhitaker4246]

So whats best for a pre- 1900 brick home in Northwest Ohio?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Toby, I have a video out called " repointing brickwork" and another , lime ,mortar or Portland " what should I use? Thanks Mike

[@AnthonyDibiaseIdeas]

Excellent content. Thank you for explaining this complicated subject in an easy to understand way.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Anthony. Mike

[@alwatts4108]

Mike, thank you, I completed my first stone job. using type S with yellow sand. I patched the stones and joints around a stone foundation suburbs of Philadelphia. Now I am repairing brick work using mortar.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks al, I am sure you will do fine, thanks Mike

[@sethfrancissimracing7558]

So I have been searching for an answer to a couple of questions and it sounds like you may be able to help me. I have to repair the joints of a stone wall here in Ct. The stones appear to be mostly grabite but there are a lot of light tan comors and yellow in the wall. The original material used to fill the joints appears to be a very sandy mixture, it is yellowish in color and you can see the grains of sand. I keed to match this as closely as possible but I'm not sure how to do it properly. I have used straight type s before but it dries to a color that is still very dark grey, almost blueish. What can I do to get the color closer to that off white, tanish/yellowish beach sand like color? Can sand be mixed with pre mix type s or type n mortar?

[@mtnManMunoz]

Ha ha, I love it, great video, and the final few minutes says, "Use type N in the South and Type S in the North! Perfect(At least in the Northern Hemisphere)!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks minman,, Mike

[@bonanzatime]

Yeah, I like that Type S Quikrete. They make a good ready-mix. .. I think it is a true lime-portland mix. Whereas Brik-Lok Types N and S don't have lime, instead it has air to give it workability. When air replaces the lime, that's called 'masonry cement', but it doesn't 'grab' the brick as good as a true Portland-Lime cement.. That's why I like that Quikrete brand👍

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, Mike

[@tom3639]

​@@MikeHaduckThanks for mentioning briklock doesn't use lime. I'll stay away from that brand since my current project is fixing up a stone retaining wall on an island with the bottom 1' underwater and I think the flexibility of lime will give longer life. I notice both sakrete type n and type s data sheets indicate lime is used and stores carry it here in Canada. Still debating type n versus type s.

[@MikeHaduck]

@tom3639 hi Tom, I did a video called " lime , mortar or portland" what should I use? Mike Haduck, that's the best opinion I could give., thanks mike

[@tom3639]

@@MikeHaduck Thanks. Will look at today. Much appreciated. It's much appreciated by that you share your knowledge and experience.

[@bonanzatime]

@@tom3639 Brik loc doesn't use lime but is still a very good masonry cement. It's been around a long time. But in your case, you want to use a straight Portland cement and sand for stone, especially if it's being exposed to water. If it's salt water, there's a very specific type of Portland cement you want to use, it's not the regular kind. I don't remember off the top of my head, so look into it.

[@Maintenance63]

Hi Mike. Im living out here in Wyoming, Bighorn Basin. We do not get much rain or snow. Cold temps in winter. What ive learned is that Type S mortar is the way to go for sidewalk repairs. Also, painting portland on is a great way to freshen up foundation walls. Thanks for your tips

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Richard, I never use type s for sidewalk repairs, I only use sand and Portland or a fast drying product, my opinion, , I have videos on " concrete repair" Mike haduck, thanks Mike

[@Byepolarchaos]

Let me tell you you’ve made this incredibly easier for me. I’ve always been interested in concrete, Masonary veneer stone work, but I thought the whole process of concrete was much more complicated. I’m gonna go out now and fix a wall that fell down 10 years ago in front of my house and has made me crazy because I refuse to pay a small fortune to fix this when it’s just piling up the stones straight being careful and putting concrete it was a freestanding wall that eventually fell because of tree root. Thank you so very very much

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Byepolar,,, Mike

[@chriswiseman]

Great video. I’m repairing flagstones sitting on limestone screenings on the ground. Between the flagstones there is some kind of mortar. The mortar has been coming loose in some spots and flagstones come loose and weeds growing. What should I use to repair? I’m in Canada 2 hours drive north of Toronto or roughly 4 hours drive north of Pittsburg. We get a little colder than you in winter, say about 5 to 10 degrees F colder. THANKS

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, I have a playlist called "stone patio installation " Mike haduck. I show my installation and re poiting techniques, and what cement i used,that might help thanks Mike

[@michaelchilcote6986]

“If you don’t get it after that, I can’t help you “ Epic!!!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks michael, Mike

[@copperheadharley]

Thank you for your videos, Mike. I live just north of Philly. As you said, you wouldn't use either N or S mortar for flat brick repointing in PA - in my area, what do you suggest? Most is an outdoor vertical brick landing/stoop but I have some flat to repair too.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi copper, ,the rule of thumb is the cement should be softer than the brick, for brick work on the flat I probably would use s mortar in Philly, but it's the local guys that would really have the answer to that, thanks mike

[@copperheadharley]

@@MikeHaduck Thanks Mike. I learned from your videos. My dad and his father were stone and brick masons -:long gone. The landing was probably built in the 60s. Live in Bucks County. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Very informative.

[@ameliemorton9849]

Mike thank you so much, do you have a video on what is the mix to use for footings and short walls for West Coast British Columbia, sounds like your climate is similar, lots of rain in the winter, some snow....

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Amelia, I would check out my "concrete mix" video, that might help, thanks Mike

[@Sartre_Existentialist]

I swear to God, for every video that says to use one mortar type, I can find 4 more that say to use something else. I have a 130 year old farm house with a field stone foundation. This Old House says to use type S, then they have another video that says type N. The stones in my foundation appear to be granite , so what mortar do you recommend for the aforementioned type of foundation wall that I have AND what exactly will happen if I stick with the type S mortar, which I already started tucking and pointing with? I live in northern Indiana near Michigan border...so cold winters

[@MikeHaduck]

I would guess you won't have a problem with S mortar, I have a whole playlist " repointing stonework" Mike Haduck, I show what I use in each circumstance, every situation is different, thanks Mike

[@FredSeymour-k6l]

Thanks Mike. I am a first time homeowner and am going to tackle tuckpointing the space between my lintel and brick wall this weekend. This video helped alot.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Fred, Mike

[@JoshLandry-v7y]

Hi Mike, I'm new to KZbin & your videos, but I have watched a lot of them in the last few weeks. I'm in north Florida & need some advice. I recently purchased a 120 year old building that has old brick parapet walls. The exterior walls are fine, but some of the interior brick is crumbling & in need of re-pointing. The entire wall is 18" thick & I'm currently removing the damaged sections half way down & gonna rebuild & re-stucco it. Some guys are saying I should just plaster over the whole wall with rapid set mortar & paint it to lock everything together. I'm afraid to do that because of the old lime mortar that was originally used. Should I just re-brick, re-poinr & plaster with type n mortar mix or cover the whole thing with rapid set 7,000 psi? Only thing that worries me is the wall being able to breathe properly. I'm putting a new 50 mil duro last roof on & they will cover over the parapet walls, but the need to b repaired first. Any advice would b greatly appreciated. Thanks

[@MikeHaduck]

I did a few videos called repointing brick work, that might help, thanks Mike

[@agentgringo1996]

Thanks for this. I subscribed and look forward to your other videos. I’m doing a pool with stone and I’m going to use the S Mortar (maybe add a little Portland). THX!!!!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, Mike

[@ericgalvan1622]

Decades of knowledge, wisdom, and experience. Thank you Mike. I'm doing some Chicago brick restoration on my home here in Michigan. This was very helpful.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Eric, Mike

[@mrmukura]

Interesting. I would have presumed the S and N were relative to the types of Lime used in the premix. Type S (allegedly for special) is pretty much mix and go, like when it's slaked to be hydrated lime rather than raw calcined burnt lime it holds more water than type N (which I 've heard is normal) also hydrated. I'm out here in New Zealand and no one in Australasia makes type S, which means we cant accurately reproduce the type of bagged mixes you might find in USA or UK, but I've found if you slake type N to a putty and mature it then add that to your mix you achieve basicly the same result. I've been told by experts type N is no good for certain things, but I've used it, and its fine. When you get down to nitty gritty itnis a different animal to hydraulic lime, but if you play around with pozzalans you can make a pretty strong mix that sets up early. I got told coarse pumice wouldn't work, but again, I've tried it and got good results. I did an inch thick render over a stone fireplace with type N hydrated lime, coarse and fine pumice (but not powdered as advised), a bit of linseed, and in about two days it was leather hard ready for finishing. Same lime with a silica sand at a quarter inch can take more than a week or two to get firm enough. Bit of a sidetrack, but the moral of the story is at the end of the day when lime carbonates it's the same stuff no matter what you use, but what you use does affect how you have to work, or ammend your mix. Anyway, that's my familiarity with the S & N hydrated variants, and as such the rationale for my assumption that's what Quickcrete might have used in their proprietry mortar mix. That aside, there's many fascinating pieces of knowledge to be gleaned from your video Mike, and I do appreciate it. Cheers

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi mmuk,, I did a video called " lime, motar or portland", what should I use? Mike Haduck. Around here nobody uses lime and it's hard to get, I know other areas are different, thanks for the comment, cheers, Mike

[@andytruett9955]

So, I live in El Paso Tx and it’s a dry hot desert. Which is best to fill in rock walls? I have to do it myself and it’s a daunting job Because my mid century home is completely surrounded by it probably about 1500-2000 feet of it. Should I worry about different colors happen when I revisit the job from time to time? This would be the first time I do this. I’m nervous but not afraid. Lol

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Andy, I have a whole playlist on repointing stonework, that should give you some ideas, and another about retaining walls, thanks Mike

[@zacdotson3577]

Probably the most enjoyable instructional video I’ve ever seen! Not like these yayhoos who do it twice and crank out a video.its nice to hear a true craftsman talk

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks zacdotson,, Mike

[@AndrewIrizarry]

Mike, we use it to plaster, but you said you don’t use it on concrete? So what do you use if you’re plastering or refinishing concrete foundation?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Andrew, I have a whole playlist called " concrete patch/repair" Mike Haduck , I show what I use and all my techniques there, and in the case of concrete foundations you can check out my videos on foundation repair, I hope it helps , Mike

[@chadsimmons6347]

I see them "Amigo's" laying the brick or stone, then struggle cleaning mortar slopped on the brick. But the Union crews keep it clean somehow (thankx-Mike)

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks chad,, Mike

[@charleswitt8106]

Another great video Mike. Can I add sand to the type s to tone down the gray color

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Charles, I don't because it will weeken it, Mike

[@dirediredude]

Watched a bunch of your videos now and this one is another great one. So when you're wrapping up towards the end and you mention that ratio that is listed in the Indiana Limestone Handbook. It's one part portland, one part lime, and six parts sand. Which newer pre mixed bag is that closest to in your estimation? Type N, Type S?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, it's a controversy thing sense they started the s and n mixes and even before, I like to leave it to the local experienced masons, thanks Mike

[@yamahajapan5351]

Masonry Cement is NOT lime. Portland is NOT concrete. Hydrated lime is lime. Masonry cement contains lime. Lime mortared structures from 500 BC still stand today. You sir are seriously misinforming your audience.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Yama, I did a video called. LIME, MORTAR OR portland, what should I Use, let me know what you think, Mike

[@PaulHobus]

Love your videos Mike. Thank you for making them! Hope you have more travel planned to review more places around the world and their contrast with your native PA.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Paul, someday, Mike

[@banjax80]

I used type n on projects repointing 100 year old brick veneer and using some of the same reclaimed to build new steps and caps for retaining walls because type n psi is half to a third lower than typs s. I would rather the mortar joints fail than having the bricks spall, crack, or crumble.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi banja,, it don't hold up in my area, I did a video called " lime , mortar or portland " what should I use,? Check it out, thanks Mike

[@caseybutt5553]

Mike, I understand that you can get away with a softer, weaker mix in places like Florida, but why not use portland even there? If portland is harder and stronger why would you even want to use mortar anywhere? Is mortar easier to work with or something?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Casey, yes mortar is easier to work with, but to me Portland is king, thanks Mike

[@bonanzatime]

Choosing mortar is a balancing act, the harder the mortar is, the more structural and durable it is, BUT ALSO it is more rigid and less flexible, so it is More Likely To CRACK. Understand?! .. You want it to hold up to the elements, but also flex enough to absorb movement!

[@caseybutt5553]

@@bonanzatime I understand. So essentially, if there's no possibility of movement or flex you're likely better off with portland, but if there is a possibility of movement you have to factor in how much strength and durability you have to sacrifice to allow for that movement?

[@bonanzatime]

@@caseybutt5553 Correct. But if it's on grade, horizontal and flat like a patio or walkway, which 'floats', meaning it does 'move' (IN AN EXTREME FREEZE/THAW AREA) then durability takes precedent over flexibility. That's why Mike correctly uses straight Portland mix for most of his work..

[@MikeHaduck]

I agree, ,Mike

[@edwardcomiskey6556]

I remember one episode that you said that you know that the mason used typ S instead of type N because of the color. Is there a color difference to beware of? I’d hate to tuck point and end up with different colors.

[@63flight]

Type S will dry a little darker than type N.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Edward, in my experience different companies usually have different shades, but you got to sample it and let it dry a day to see what comes out, thanks mike

[@ironchefboyardeee]

Would you use either of these for repairing skim coat on a foundation in a warm climate like Texas? Or a completely different product?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi , I have used it but I did a whole playlist on "foundation repair " Mike haduck, I show what I used in each circumstance, thanks Mike

[@tigeryee168]

hi i have corner brick house i live in new york city brooklyn i want repoing brick . should i mix 1 cement 3sand or1cement 4or5sand please let me kown.thank you.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi tigeryee, I have a couple videos " repointing brickwork" Mike haduck, I show what I use and my techniques, that might help, thanks Mike

[@thenewyorkredneck4735]

What do you recommend for building a root cellar using local stones upstate New York?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi I can't say, it's best to ask the local masons what works in their area, thanks, Mike

[@oddopops1327]

👍👍😊

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, Mike

[@jamie.777]

10 years ago i was using gardening lime for my yand mixes mortor. Now i am premix and lazy. When lime was easy to buy, u had strong mortor

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Jamie, Mike

[@Jonathan-y3e3l]

Very smart mason cheers brother and thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍😎🍻💪

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks again,, Mike

[@200milesaway6]

In England we have 4+ different types of lime and they do not work the same way. The lime to mix with cement is very different to the lime used on stone walls.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, over here it's rare to find anybody using lime, it won't hold up in my area. I been over there and seen it but it is rare over here for anybody to use it, some oldtimers , thanks Mike

[@GoingOrbit]

So I just poured about 4" of type s to extend my concrete step a little bit. Will this even hold?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Going Orbit, I can't say, a lot has to do with your weather, thanks Mike

[@2013HotNewMusic]

Hello, is type S suitable for vertical carving to make fake veneer/stone cosmetic appearance like the wall behind mike?

[@MikeHaduck]

Check out stucco installation part 3 Mike haduck, I think that is what you are talking about, thanks, Mike

[@NomadSaga]

You are exactly what people need as a teacher these days. Everyone thinks things have to be too precise or complicated, in a way we have become too OCD and real life efficiency is effected for no real gain. Thanks for bringing some old school efficiency back into this inefficient world!! I am fortunate enough to have known old schoolers so I am comfortable with and understand the truth in “it’s not a big deal”. Which is one of the greatest lessons you give these youngsters and it’s true!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Nomad, I appreciate hearing that, Mike

[@Steven-p1o]

You look like Joe Namath.I’m 70 still doing construction keep it up pal. I learned from the greatest generation. My teachers growing up I watched and listen. I can remember my Dad buying a 80lb Portland for $.25 early 1960. Your passing on great knowledge. Thanks.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks ,I appreciate hearing that, Mike

[@jamie.777]

My dad is a retired Mason [Boston concrete floor finishing LEGEND], 😅he had me hand mix concrete for home projects. I learned the lime, Portland cement, sand mix ratio

[@christopherpece5145]

I have a boy scout who needs to build a stone wall for his Eagle project in the Shenandoah mts of Virginia. So is he better using N Mortar with a little Portland added?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Chris, I have a playlist out called " retaining walls" I show what I use in each instance, it should help, thanks Mike

[@threatassessment216]

What is the best mime product to practice Lane bricks with that you can take down and put a wall up Mike ? Thank you for you time sir ❤️

[@MikeHaduck]

I have a video out 'Essex County school visit, Mike haduck, that might help, Mike

[@joshuagraham967]

Incredibly informative, thank you for the video!!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks josh,, Mike

[@cryptoskillz]

Can you mix n-tpye and s-type. I have equal number of both and don't want to return any

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Cripto, many times I do, sometimes I add a little more Portland, depends on the job , thanks Mike

[@nicholasb8799]

Thanks Mike, you have taught me so many tricks that I have used....

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Nicholas, Mike

[@jeremyjohnson3613]

Thank you Mike. Dieing Breed. Im trying to determine how much lime to put in my chinking thanks for the information

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Jeremy, Mike

[@markannan5752]

Hi Mike, could you explain why you don't use the mortar on horizontal surfaces.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi, repoting stone work or concrete patches mortar does not hold up in ne Pennsylvania, my experience, thanks Mike