Mini Mill Overview & Tram- Optimum MH22V - Rob's Garage

[@incubatork]

On a milling machine weight is good as it helps absorb vibration thats why they use cast iron instead of steel. If you still have the BF16 and are not in need of the cash its a great candidate for converting to CNC. I'm in the process of converting my HBM bf28 to cnc, slightly biger than the PM25 you see a lot of videos about, its still manual but I have almost all I need but need to keep it manual for now to make the mounts and endplates for the stepper motors, unfortunately health has got in the way and has slowed my conversion to a standstill at the moment. When using the ER collets you need to fit the collet to the nut first, it clips in, then screw on the nut rather than the way you did it by putting the collet into the holder then screwing the nut on, its IMPORTANT as it can either come loose or slacken its grip on say an end mill with probable disastrous results.

[@Ducati900SS]

I definitely needed the cash and so I sold the BF16 and some bits to be able to get this new mill. I saw some CNC conversions back when I was researching mills, and even looked into the available kits before I bought the BF16. Ultimately, CNC is a step too far for my purposes. It'd certainly be nice to be able to cut a smooth curved path, but repeat work is not something I'll be doing at home. On the other hand, a DRO and maybe even a powerfeed could be upgrades I'll do at some point. Hope you get well soon!

[@Buildeazy]

Hi, thanks for the video. I watched most of it, and tried to find where you talk about why you decided to replace the BF16, but I couldn't. Can you let me know if you talk about that in the video? Or if not, can you let me know in just a few words? Thanks

[@Ducati900SS]

Hi, no worries. Sometimes the points are not clear because I record the intro before I record the video and then it doesn't always align as intended. I've done the same again with the one I'm working on now. Most of the points are there in the first quarter, but I'll do a summary here and add some more details for anyone looking to buy: There are really 4 entry-level mills to consider if you're here in NZ. I'm not including 2nd hand pro mills. I've got no connection to the local supplier (I'll call MH) other than that I've blown a pile of money there and sent plenty of buyers their way. They should really send me some freebies. Sieg Generally too crappy in comparison to the Optimums and typically have to be ordered 3 months ahead and purchased sight-unseen from the local importer. Prices are good but they are just not up to scratch. BF16V - Available in NZ and AU Cheapest decent mill in NZ About 75 or so Kg, easy to move around Good motor Taper bearings Stable BF20LV - Available in NZ and AU Too heavy for my wants at 162Kg Twice the price at the time (am only a beginner) Is not a current model in Germany MH22V - Not normally available in NZ, but there is one left I think - Ask me where if you want to get it. Don't know about AU. Same overall workspace as BF20 About 40Kg lighter than BF20 Is current model in Germany The most appreciated features over the BF16 - These also apply to the BF20LV Huge vertical workspace Huge bed Z-axis much easier to operate Z-axis has fine control And some obvious technical benefits of both the BF20 and MH22 over BF16 More power More stability Other points to note Be aware that the Optimums sold at MH are converted to a BSW MT3 drawbar. The MH22V I purchased had a 12mm bar which is more typical for tools you buy on eBay etc. As all my tools from the BF16 were BSW, I had to order another drawbar from MH. The bars are all interchangeable between the 3 Optimums and I later also made and extended one for myself. Note also that if you buy an MH22 in Germany, it comes with a BRT20 quick change arbor. And finally, be aware that there are bigger mills available at MH for not all that much more.. e.g. add only between 600 and 1000 bucks and you can choose mills from 260Kg all the way to 400Kg. If you can handle something big like that in your workshop then the price increase is negligible. Crappy bits: Just what I mention in this and the other videos I've made around this mill. Overall I'm very happy with it and very happy that I upgraded from the BF16. Very few of the projects I've done since could have been completed on the BF16, certainly not as easily.

[@joansparky4439]

btw.. BT20, not BRT20. Anything below BT30/ISO30 is rel. expensive as mostly only high speed CNC router-machines use those as they allow for automatic tool change in that size category at those RPMs (HSK is even more expensive). _Too bad most benchtop machines in Ozeania come with the Morse tapers instead of BT30 - I had to swap the MT3 spindle on my ZX45 clone for a BT30 import spindle from Germany (KAMI) to get easier tool changing._

[@joansparky4439]

PS: and yes, if you got the space and lifting equipment get the biggest benchtop u can afford (more iron = better cuts). Even those optimum machines need lots of tuning and work once one learns what makes them click and has had a look under the hood and checked up on some things. *And plan on spending at least 50% of the price of the machine on tooling within 12 months of getting one (tool holders, vices, rotary tables, digital readouts, powerfeed x/z, etc. pp.)*

[@Ducati900SS]

@@joansparky4439 Yes, BT not BTR.. I don't know where the R came from.. probably from being the key next to the T, and my terrible typing! I've been in two minds about the drawbar vs the quick change thing. I like the convenience of the latter but the way people end up with 10-20 of them on the shelf is the scarier part when I'm trying to stop spending money!

[@Ducati900SS]

@@joansparky4439 Definitely, the digital readout is way up the list when buying a mill... higher up than I initially thought it would be for me.

[@adhawk5632]

Im just re watching this vid, its a nice mill. Not the safest position for the safety button, that a fail on optimum's part😅 it definitely needs a DRO, but i reckon youve got that sorted. 👍👌🇦🇺

[@Ducati900SS]

Yes its definitely a nice mill and very happy to have found it. The place still has the other one they brought in at the same time. The amount of vertical space has been real good to have. But those controls at the rear are jus terrible. I might need to set up some sort of remote box down at the front. The older BF20 model is probably a better buy for that reason.

[@Ducati900SS]

The DRO is next after I finish recording this series today. Am off to the hardware store now to look at extrusions 👍

[@adhawk5632]

The rf45 clone mills are super popular at the moment, a few of the companies in Australia have them on sale for 2.5K range. There big, 300+kgs, solid, gear head mills. One day.....👍👌🇦🇺

[@magnusotsa6618]

Hello! Just discovered your channel while searching for reviews on the Optimum MH22 but I'm wondering how and why did you get the MH22 in MK/MT taper, in EU we only have BT20 taper for the MH22V and to me it makes more sense to buy BT20 since the tool change cycle is easier in every way? Love your videos btw! I hope you keep it up!

[@Ducati900SS]

Hi Magnus! There's just no choice down here in New Zealand. The official Optimum importer doesn't even sell the MH22 models at all. They only sell the BF20LV in this size range. There just happened to be a guy who imported two MH22V's separately, but he doesn't otherwise deal in these machines. I think he still has the other one - I'm surprised none of my viewers went and got it. And as for why the machines down here have the drawbar instead of the quick-release.. I have no idea.... maybe it's just an old fashion, or maybe it has to do with patents and licenses. Optimum in Germany refuses to deal with individuals, even for support or parts and accessories. They always say to go to the official distributor.. The same goes for Australia. It means you can't buy anything directly from them. I called the local distributor about the new machines and they said they just get what the factory in China gives them. It appears they are given old or maybe unsold stock. But otherwise, I resolved the problems with the drawbar by way of a couple of gadgets I made not long ago on my channel - The Drawbar Lock and the Tool Arbor Lock. Together, those mods have made using the mill massively better and easier to use. So now it's not really a problem. However, I haven't heard of anyone making their own versions of those gadgets... maybe they all prefer to suffer?! If I had the choice of all available Optimum machines off their website, and with my requirements that the machines are not huge and heavy, I would still get the same MH22V mill, but I would get the lathe that is one model higher than the TU-2004v I have, because it is the same size, but a few inches longer. I think that would be well worth it. Thanks for the comments!

[@ThanasisThomas]

Do you sit down or stand up when using the lathe?

[@Ducati900SS]

hmm good question. I have a tall gas-lift stool that I use on both the lathe and the mill. I'd say I sit on it 90% of the time on the mill and 70% of the time on the lathe, even though the lathe is lower down on the bench. On the mill I need to see the work from the front/side, whereas on the lathe it's easy to view what I'm doing from above. And relating to this - I got a stool that only has legs and not wheels, because I didn't want it rolling around when I'm on it. I have got my eyes on a similar stool that has a back rest, but the one without it has the benefit of being usable from all sides without looking at it. So far, the cost of the backrest stool has made up my mind on that.

[@ThanasisThomas]

@@Ducati900SS i am just asking because i am new to the hobby :) i will try both!!Is it possible to learn the lathe just by watching videos?

[@Ducati900SS]

@@ThanasisThomas That's pretty much exactly what I've been doing. So long as you have a basic knack for engineering and a good sense of safety, you can certainly get into this just by watching KZbins and visiting some of the hobby engineering forums and Facebook groups. It is however a topic where everyone has differing opinions about the same things and it can be hard to filter out the right advice. I don't really do tutorials (because I'm a beginner) but check out the playlist of beginner videos by Blondihacks called Lathe Skills. I watched quite a few of those and also the ones on Mill Skills. I watched those and I think she does a good job on many of the basics. Just a comment - If you haven't yet bought a lathe, be aware there are two basic types, those called Sieg or Sieg-type lathes and the others which you can group as Optimum (as I have) and also Warco and Chester. In my opinion, these latter ones are a much better machine out of the box, and so I would avoid a Sieg type lathe at this price and size level unless you have no choice. Ask on any of my videos if you want any advice on a particular model you find. I check all questions and answer them.

[@ThanasisThomas]

@@Ducati900SS i got a weiss geared head lathe i am new to the hobby planning on getting a mill too just like yours

[@Ducati900SS]

​@@ThanasisThomas Ah good stuff. And yes this mill has been great. I think either this or the older model BF20LV are the best to get at this level. There's a shorter version of this mill available but the height of these two models is a great benefit. Have been very happy with it.