mini split freon repair and pumpdown

[@nelsonechevarria7009]

Thank you for the video,I learned the hard way that a torque wrench must be used to torque the flare nuts to manufacture specified values in order to avoid these kind of problems.Take a motorhead as an example,if motorhead bolts are not set in sequence and torqued according to the make and model of a car you run the risk of blowing the engine.I spent almost $200.00 on a yellow jacket torque wrench specifically made for installing mini split units and it is money well spent because if I should ever have to redo my mini split line set or replace my mini split I will have the torque wrench to help me avoid these kind of problems.Many youtube videos show people installing mini split units but the videos fail time and time again to mention that the mini split flare nuts must be tightened with a torque wrench according to manufacturer torque values in order to avoid leaks after a year or what ever amount of time has passed.

[@markks2321]

After you put your back up wrench on the first time you were tightening rather than loosening it looked like!

[@ACPro]

You must be mistaken. Tighten only

[@mikecannella1234]

Lol I saw that 😂 everyone makes mistakes

[@AhmedBarnawi]

@3:37

[@robertdeming1802]

Thanks for redoing the flare joint (7:14) . Most non-pro people would have edited the video to make things look perfect. From you I have learned that a real pro can make a mistake and then correct it ! Thanks again.

[@ACPro]

Glad you liked it!

[@Alberto-by7zq]

Always follow the manufacturer instructions. Some mini split instructions requires you to back down a little from that first torque (announced with a click) and change the setting on the torque tool to mfr. specs and apply a second torque. Also, some mfrs. tell you to apply the leak guard sealer they provide with the equipment (only on the tip of the head connecting to the flare, not on the nut thread.) When in doubt call tech support.

[@ACPro]

All will say alittle something different. But it is good practice to apply alttle oil on the flare to reduce friction as it compresses. But main goal in all as it is still basic principles of a flare. Don't over tighten and squeeze the flare. And if it don't leak whatever you did . Worked!!

[@kevinkevin9448]

Keep making the videos brother you deserve to have a million followers !!!!!

[@michaelmcalister9970]

If you put a slight coat of nylon on your tool it will help with stretching of the copper when making flares

[@andrewsimon5437]

Agreed! Put a little bit of nylog on there

[@MikeJones-qo7vt]

I have a mini split tht is spitting droplets 💦 out the inside unit I check the draine port and hose its clear. Did some research someone informed me if it was low on refrigeratant it would cause ice build up on fins and melting water drops on the fan blades causing my problem. Whats you opinion , would doing what u showed and adding refrigerant be the answer

[@ACPro]

It is possible. But if that is the case you should be able to look at the coil and tell. I would think if you system is old and not serviced the pan is full of algae

[@MikeJones-qo7vt]

@@ACPro I pulled it down and cleaned it thoroughly the entire inside unit. No drain blockage no algae or mold. It worked perfectly fine previous years just one summer it start spitting droplets I put a dehumidifier in the room to see what would happen ran them both and the a/c stop spitting..but I can't afford to do tht it was jus a test

[@kevinyu3940]

Hi Toby, If there is a leak and no refrigerant in system. Do I open both service valves and add nitrogen in the system then check for leaks. And vaccum to 500 microns with the suction and liquid line open. Will that damage the compressor. Im new to this.

[@ACPro]

It will not damage . Open both

[@kevinyu3940]

@@ACPro thank you so much it works cold now.

[@Ultimatelocke]

Question. How do you "pump these down" without doing a recovery? If your pumping the R410a out of the system would you not need something to hold it? I currently have a mini split that's low on freon to the point where it won't even turn on without giving the error code. I'm confident that I can reflare it since it's pretty easy and I have the tool but I also don't want to disconnect the line and have the refrigerate leak out. So do I need to purchase a recovery tank or is there a method to skip that step since my system is extremely low on charge.

[@ACPro]

If it will not run you can not pump it. You need the compressor on to pump it down. So if you want to save the gas you must recover it.

[@Ultimatelocke]

So I should "Close the top one as shown at 2:09 Then disconnect the bottom one and reflare then pressurize it and then add in refrigerate?

[@ACPro]

You have to close both if you want outside unit to be sealed off from lines and indoor unit

[@paxlepham]

Great videos. However, i have 3 units and only want to fix on one zone. I have follow your direct. Fist the pressure went down to approximate 20 psi then turning back to initial pressure. I am so scare that will have some damage so i turn that back to normal.

[@ACPro]

The txv valve are on the outdoor unit. It is normal on start up for pressure to fall and then rise back to normal level. The txv must find its correct position. Normal pressure can run from 125 to 150. Depending on your heat load and how many zones are on. If you have a 3 zone system and only a issue with 1 zone. Then possible you have a txv problem.

[@paxlepham]

@@ACPro i do not have txv valve. Thanks your videos again. I fixed it. Close all the refrigerant valves of the other unit that would drop to 0. However, i have the problem with the other unit, flare connections.

[@nelsonechevarria7009]

By the way,you neglected to debur the copper tubing end both inside and out before you attempted to make the flare and that in and of itself can cause a leak after having formed the flare.

[@doddgarger6806]

So just close discharge king valve and turn on cooling mode and shut it off at about 0 and close the other king valve right?

[@ACPro]

Yes. Close the small line and allow the compressor to suck out the refrigerant from the lines and indoor unit. Then close the large one. Also don't forget to give the video a thumbs up. Thanks 😊

[@doddgarger6806]

@@ACPro already did! Thanks for the reply So how low should I expect the unit to pump down ive seen lots of people say the low pressure cut out will stop the comp around 20psi Problem with these is it's a dc compressor so you can't just jump 220 to it lol, that would definitely be bad

[@ACPro]

@@doddgarger6806 most mini split systems do not have low pressure cut out as they operate on sensors and temperature allowing it to operate at zero to negative for enough time to close the valve. However almost all central system have low pressure cut out as they operate on control and relay type systems. If by chance you have a system with low pressure cut out at 20 psi almost all refrigerant has been removed anyway . What is remaining is totally legal under epa system dependant recovery rules. And lose of gas would be under a oz.

[@doddgarger6806]

@@ACPro only an oz really? Ok good to know how to handle this particular operation Do you have a brand you prefer? I just installed a senville 19 seer and a mrcool 21 and like them both but I definitely expect trouble at some point The senville site actually has boards and other things available so that's a big plus on them I recorded split temps for heat and cool with outside temp for both systems just to have a baseline if they seem to have trouble in the future

[@YB-eg3rj]

How would you do a multi-zone unit?

[@ACPro]

Exactly the same turn 1 zone at time

[@Bambino_60]

I wish they just made mini splits where you braze them like split systems.

[@MarcelHVAC]

I use braze couplings with factory flare and a copper ring with a bit of nylog, works pretty good!

[@kevinkevin9448]

Great what happens if u had a leak and u are not sure how much u recovered ???? Could u add by subcooling ????

[@rruizproductions]

Best to do a complete recovery then add the amount the circuit calls for. Amount should be on data plate.

[@lhendrick1]

No. Can't do that on a mini with one service port. Have to take it all out and weigh in new refrigerant, after a pressure test and a complete evacuation.

[@EdwinBeemsterboer]

You have to release the air from the hose

[@ACPro]

Interesting!

[@westwasbest]

You were tightening the line before you realized you needed to loosen it, watch the video closely

[@ACPro]

Your right I'm just a idiot.

[@kevinkevin9448]

How do u weigh it back in if you pump it down ??

[@ACPro]

If you pump it down you don't weight it back in. You still have it all traped in condenser. All you have to do is vacuum and release the gas .

[@polleybp]

Tobys place how would you know if the charge is correct ?

[@bokchoy335]

@@polleybp you don't. You have to remove it all and weigh in the nameplate charge.

[@paxlepham]

@@ACPro great answer, you have also answered my question.

[@MT-xy7fw]

You tighten at first then realised and correct undo lmao

[@ACPro]

Keep lmao . I'm not the one watching a video🤣🤣🤣

[@HiFiTown]

Great video. This is the hardest part of mini-split installation. Do you recommend nylog? It seems to prevent leaks.

[@ACPro]

Nothing on the treads. But a drop of oil on the flare helps alot make a seal without the friction that hurts the flare

[@HiFiTown]

@@ACPro I bet! The first flares I ever made, I did not lube and they had problems. Then I discovered this stuff called "Nylog" about 20 years ago. It's indispensable. You don't put it on the threads, rather you put it on the flare itself before you torque it down. It's some type of refrigerant friendly slime that never cures. I only do flares once in a ble moon, so this magic goop makes up for my lack in skill! The Blue version is universal for all refrigerants. Works well on all seals.

[@fiqhanaja2019]

5:18 Fall

[@ACPro]

Thank you for watching and being a valued member of my followers

[@fiqhanaja2019]

O, i see

[@TheLuckyman7726]

One thing I noticed is that, the tool makes a noise when the flare is done, may not be the same for yours but I thought I heard it

[@ACPro]

Are you talking about the flaring tool itself, making clicking noise when flare is finished? If so they have a clutch that after so much pressure is applied it released and doesnt alow you to squeeze the copper . If you squeeze it ,it will remove the sealing properties of the copper. Just like over tighting flare nuts on a machine. Once copper is squeezed and flat. Only thing you can do is reflare it .

[@ictviamfortruthgoogleisspa5886]

why did he closed suction line?

[@ACPro]

You have to close both you cannot rely on the compressor hold the charge in you just pumped down.

[@homeownerbuilderservicesll6777]

Alway clean around the cut after before flaring...

[@ACPro]

Good call

[@karenanngivani6772]

hi, i think you were acctually turning the nut the wrong direction, until the last time, when you open,... Righty tighty, LEFTY LOOSEY

[@MarcelHVAC]

Just do it the proper way and recover the refrignant, with the pump down you did you might have sucked non condensables in the sytem.

[@ACPro]

The name of the video is how to pump down a mini split. If you don't like the method why did you watch the video?

[@MarcelHVAC]

@@ACPro Just because you now the drill right

[@NJX-kj4fz]

I was just quoted $1,600 for this repair.

[@ACPro]

They must not be interested in doing the work.

[@ericafors6039]

@@ACPro Nobody in our area of SC wants to repair anything on a minisplit. They only want to install new. They take the going price of the unit and double it, even for a simple 2-3 hour install. I was just quoted $6300 for a elevated 1st floor install of a Mitsubishi one ton floor mounted heat pump. In other words, a simple job with no access issues and a 30 foot line-set run. I appreciate these videos all the more because it’s hard to get professionals to work on our system.

[@ACPro]

@@ericafors6039 unfortunately the new age of service tecs are salesmen . Not repairmen. It is the easy way out world we live in. I understand your pain. Thank you for the comments

[@ericafors6039]

@@ACPro Toby, thank you for your videos! They are so helpful. 😎

[@robbyketcherside3286]

410A is a blended refrigerant if you have a leak it can/will throw the blend off and will not flash properly, don’t you think you oughta recover all of it and do it properly if you’re gonna put a video out? Not trying be rude just want to learn to do things correctly in a professional manner.

[@ACPro]

Thats crazy talk. In the real world you have to do things that make common sense. Not something a 90 day HVAC course will teach you and call you certified. Just ask yourself on the millions of homes you go to that are 1to 3 lbs low in charge due to indoor coil leak. You will tell customer 1200.00 for coil repair we can order it should be able to do it in a few days to 2 weeks And if you want to get going today we can recover the refrigerant, vacuum your system however we know it has a leak do vacuum will only pull in more non condensables and recharge by weight plus service call and diagnostic that will be 900.00 today. Or you can just stay hot or cold until I call you back with exact time and day when I get parts. If you want to be in the buisness and keep customers you have to use logic and think about what if it was you sitting in that hot 100 degree house trying to play your Xbox while mom is making you a sandwich. Your job as a technician is keep the customer happy . Screw the scientific theorys play with them on a forum somewhere. On the job do what is best for the customer.

[@ACPro]

@@lhendrick1 let me guess you went to hvac 101 and you are engineer.

[@teweruyyygbb3361]

@@ACPro tell him what’s real brother. Happy customers happy life. Never seen a unit fail from it. It may happen 1/10000 times