The Slapchop Painting Technique Speedpainting Miniatures Fast

Get your miniatures table top ready in just 20 minutes with the quick and easy painting slap chop technique also known as under painting or grisaille. Is the slap chop technique the fastest painting technique ever?
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Shout out to @TheHonestWargamer for this awesome and easy technique
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00:00 Introduction
00:28 Wizkids Frameworks Hill Giant
00:48 Cut & Glue Parts Together
02:04 Save Sprues for Sprue Goo
02:24 Fill Gaps with Green Stuff
03:04 Prime miniature in Black
03:24 Dry Brush in a Light Colour
04:03 Dry Brush using White
04:34 Easy Roller Dice Kickstarter
05:33 The EASY way of Painting
06:32 Army Painter Speedpaints
11:46 Finish off with a Wash
12:10 Miniature Painted in 20 Minutes
12:37 Stick a Fork in ME Im Done
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#slapchop #contrastpaint #miniaturepainting
#miniatures,#miniaturepainting,#wargamingminiatures,miniature painting techniques,miniature,miniature painting for beginners,slap chop,slap chop painting,painting,painting miniatures,painting miniatures for beginners,painting for beginners,painting wargames figures,#slapchop,miniature painting,miniature painting tutorial,miniature painting tips,wizkids frameworks,dungeons and dragons,speed paint,contrast paint,dipping inks, the honest wargamer

[@nekrataali]

I think this is the best model you've painted so far. You really nailed the details on the face. 😎 Okay so for people wondering about who came up with this method of painting a.k.a Slap Chop/Grisaille/under painting/Veneda/Verdaccio/dead layer/whatever you want to call it: This is the traditional way of painting because it's useful for making smooth blends, it's easier to draw then paint, and it's cheaper. Paint used to be really expensive. A lot of the names for colors come from the materials they were made from. "Cobalt Blue" is named so because it was literally made from cobalt. Imagine you're in Italy during the 1500s. In order to make Cobalt Blue, you have to get cobalt mined in sub-Saharan Africa and wait for it to be shipped by sail boat from the Gulf of Guinea around the coast of Senegal/Sierra Leone/Liberia, up to Morocco and the Canary Islands, before it finally goes through the Straight of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean Sea. Then you have stuff like Crimson Red or Vermillion, which (during the Renaissance) was made from drying out dead insects and crushing their scales before mixing it with white chalk. Some hues could only be made this way. Cochineals were used like this, and they only come from one place: Central and South America. Attempts were made to import and raise them to Ethiopia and Australia, which failed. So our poor Blood Angels players would have to wait for a harvest of cochineals from the Aztecs, who were at war with Spanish invaders, and then peel the scales off these bugs to dry out to make pigment. Which brings us to under painting. Rather than use expensive, hard to get paint and mixing different pigments together to get the values you wanted, it's much easier to use do your painting in black, white, grey, and maybe another color like yellow or green that could be made from readily available materials. Artists would use Carbon Black or Burnt Sienna to do most of the work. Just go light some wood on fire, turning it to charcoal, then crush it up to make black. Or grab some dirt, toss it on the grill, and use that. Or crush up some lead and mix it with chalk. Then, once you have your under painting done, you can just glaze over it with the expensive pigment bought for you by the Pope worth more than your house. You get the effects seen here in the slapchop method, without using a literal boatload of paint. You could also make paintings by drawing out the whole thing using oil-based crayons. Since they used linseed oil just like oil paint, it would bond to whatever you painted over it. Much, much easier process than trying to paint those really fine details using a brush....which was also expensive because the hairs in it came from weasels in Russia. Better to avoid unncessary wear and tear on your tools by simply shaving down an oil crayons into a point. Draw out all of your fine details, then you can just glaze over the black and white with whatever hue. The shavings can then be used to make more crayons, so you're not wasting material. We're spoiled as fuck in today's world where a lot of this stuff is now made synthetically. You can still get pigments made using traditional methods, but most people prefer the $10 tube of synthetic blue to the $100 tube (no, really) of Cobalt Blue. Plus, changes in shipping have drastically lowered the cost of goods that exist far away. A lot of miniature painters have typically just bought five different shades of blue, then used those to build up their layers, because that's the method we all used to learn how to paint since we had to learn it from gaming magazines and rule books. tl;dr--don't get upset over who invented what, because you're wrong unless you're arguing over artists from the 1200s.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Love, love, love all this, yes quite right it doesnt matter what people want to call this (maybe I should make up some silly name.....ArthursWobblyBits) it works wonders for painters like me that could spend hours painting something and still not be happy with it when this incredibly simple method turns my grey bits of plastic into something I am happy/proud to display either on my desk or in a table top game =)

[@Shaeomar1]

You legend. Thanks for posting this! Super interesting.

[@Sichuanbeef]

I just started working on some Warhammer Underworlds models using oils. I did start with an umber underpainting for the gold armor areas, a mars black for the cold blue ultramarine cape, and a verdaccio mix of mars black and yellow ochre to make my green for the face. I think it looks different than so many other people's work, but I like the way it looks personally. Thanks for spreading the info about traditional painting and how we are still emulating it in ways even today with miniatures. Have a good one!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

@@Shaeomar1 It is isnt it, Im thinking I might call this technique Razzle Dazzle as slop chop is so last month lol =P

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

@@Sichuanbeef it is amazing how we revert back to something that is 100's of years old but too many of us it is brand new =)

[@MrVolvobloke]

We used to use this 'zenithal, drybrush technique back in the eighties on historicals but we didn't have the contrast paints in those days so we used watercolour paints. Weird how it's come full circle again!

[@gavinm894]

Yeah, it's like fashion that goes, umm, out of fashion then comes back in and is claimed as the 'newest, greatest thing'. It's nothing new but great to see it coming back. I wonder if GW's insistence on their way of 'hobbying' resulted in it being lost as a general technique. I don't really recall it being a way to paint from eavy metal.

[@doejon9424]

What's comical to me is how this hobby has became more about the minatures & how much detail/realism you can get. But 1/72 & 1/35 scale tank & aircraft modelers have literally been doing this since the 60's - 00's. It's not even really about the actual game anymore HAHA. People used to paint em up like "true game pieces" because they just wanted to play Warhammer / Warhammer 40k / Warhammer: Blood Bowl. I don't even think half these KZbin painters play the game much anymore.. it's all about the pieces. I'd much rather just paint figures occasionally nowdays. I don't really like where 40k went the past few years & they pretty much phased out Warhammer red box.

[@tybirchell6619]

Always will

[@thebattleofpelennorfieldsp6081]

Cool!

[@BartBeswick]

MrVolo - and for the same reasons I did zenithal/drybrush with really thinned GW layer paints in the 1990's as a speed method. Oldchop? Cheapchop?

[@rossvolkmann1161]

Pro-tip for when you're struggling to get him off the painting base at 12:00: the easiest way to break a superglue bond is to pop the model in your freezer for a few minutes. This makes the glue far more brittle and you can just crack it apart without worrying about damaging anything.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Ahh cool, cheers for the tip =)

[@doejon9424]

A dab of de-bonder also works. The super glue turns to liquid

[@makeshiftminis9090]

I messed around with the undercoat for the slap trap method a few weeks back. From what I can tell, you can get different effects with different colors. At the time I used dark red as a base coat with a mint green on the highlights. After I put on some skin tones the results looked raw and infected which worked pretty well for what I was working on.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

That sounds cool and was what I was hoping would happen, Im going to have a mess around with several colours =)

[@mattbuckley392]

Love the look of this technique regardless of speed. It has a real antique look to it too .... brilliant stuff.

[@SEAKPhotog]

The algorithm sent me. That's a great technique. I haven't painted figures for 35+ years. I would have killed for this technique even though I loved painting them. Cheers!

[@Suiberis]

I've actually found it pretty effective and time saving to prime a miniature grey, go over it with a thin black wash and then drybrush highlight white on the raised edges. Helps if you plan on batching a group of 30-50 minis.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Sounds good, I brought a load of black primer so will be using that until it runs out lol =)

[@taylorpaul432]

I would like to try this technique. Do you use a specific black wash or make your own? If so, how do you make it?

[@Suiberis]

@@taylorpaul432 I have a few old bottles of GW Nuln Oil which I use but I've made a bottle of my own using the recipe from Geek Gaming Scenics. Another method involves an oil wash using any black oil paint and an odorless thinner.

[@taylorpaul432]

@@Suiberis It never occurred to me just to use Nuln Oil!

[@NovusIgnis]

I'm still new at all this and I bought grey for my prime/base coat instead of black. If I want to achieve what you're saying, could I get the same result of a black wash by thinning a black paint and going over the model?

[@NLGedonis]

I never thought about drybrushing before applying a contrast paint. Thanks for introduceing this idea to me. I have always struggled using contrast paints and now I can see why.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Its so easy with great results, have fun trying it =)

[@marmadukesandwich]

It's not a pile of shame, it's an altar of aspiration.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Exactly =)

[@trynda1701]

A pile of potential is another name I've heard! 😊😊😊😊

[@johnholder6601]

That helped.... I just bought a bunch of speed paints - and I did not dry brush enough... not by a long shot.. Can't wait to get home and give another go on other models.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Like, Subscribe, Share and leave comments below, please and thank you 🙂

[@jefferykeown8834]

I hit upon this technique in the 80s, but we didn't have contrast back then. Had to water everything down. Never went anywhere with it. Nice to see it's rise to prominence in this age.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Yup contast/speed/dipping inks have helps us noobs paint well now lol =P

[@nathanroberts2670]

Me too Jeffery! Though I remember when using the ink wash over an underpainting was all the rage in the mid 80's. Jez Goodwin's Eldar comes to mind.

[@patrickpatrick5105]

Man, I have painted several models with Slapchop recently and it is saving me so much time. As well as looking pretty solid.

[@adamvenables6259]

Beautiful model and a cracking, simple but effective paint job! Nice one!

[@justinjantz7334]

I can not wait to try this. I have been struggling to get my bad guys to look like bad guys and I think this is going to help so much. Thank you for showing you paint labels so I can go get some of these to try and recreate what you've done and learn how to do it with other models. Slap Chop method dry brushing... I've already learned so much lol.

[@nicholasshopoff7308]

Mini looks great! And thanks for the run down of this method. Been painting casually for years now and never heard of this method! Will have to try it out soon.

[@scottsarcanecraft379]

Wow. Very impressive paint job. I have been on the fence when it comes to speed paints. You might have just helped me make a decision to purchase them. Great video!

[@jmsimons777]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing. This has inspired me to get my plastic painted as I always found it so daunting. You have given me that confidence to give it a go. Thank you.

[@Jerry671]

I'm a new painter, and your videos have e been Sooooo helpful. I'm watching you from the little island of Guam by the way. Thank you sooooo much for your explanations and tutorials.

[@pmuk4]

Really impressed with the end result, looks amazing

[@p3stb0te]

Just Amazing 🔥no more words needed 👏🏽

[@APPYuGiChannel]

I really glad you showed how to do this with a brush for the initial drybrush. Everything else I have seen uses an airbrush and I don't have me one of those.

[@gingewilson2147]

Good to hear you’re starting to enjoy the painting side of the hobby. I find it difficult to find the time needed to really get my miniatures to look how I’d like them to so the new speed paints are a huge boon to my painting style. 👍🏼 I’ve also re belled as the KZbin’s seem to have turned down my subscription. Keep up the good work sir.

[@svenjonsson9]

That is incredible- at a glance I would think that was 20-40 hours or work to get that shading! Great work, and thank you for sharing!

[@tybirchell6619]

Slapchop has been around for a while, but the speed paints have helped a lot of people to have better looking minis. This is pretty cool to see.

[@vinterbjork4128]

This model really makes this method shine!

[@leewat3742]

looks amazing, great job.

[@sobreaver]

Really nice technique, simple and efficient.

[@geekfreak69]

Awesome technique must try it myself Jon

[@pizzalovinggal8464]

Great tutorial, it's a fab technique for getting the light and shade effect spot on 👍

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you so much loving gal =) x

[@bretthamelin8974]

This is pretty cool. Thanks.

[@lostnfound1086]

Thanks for using the big model! It's great to see how this method works. Nicely done!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you so much =)

[@bobprobert353]

I can totally relate at the end of the video with you. I am to faffy, spend to much time on a figure and I'm now scared to even try and paint after all these years. After seeing this though you inspired me and I will try the paints you suggested. I also lost heart with the airbrush breaking and clogging up with paint. I will try this out, it looks great by the way!

[@karlbutton916]

Looks awesome! So happy to hear you’re enjoying the painting now 😊

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Karl, I am loving it mate, yup a year or so ago I detested painting lol but now I cant get enough =)

[@Seal420123]

Nice. Thanks!

[@christianringlstetter6814]

Love your videos. They're an inspiration for me...!

[@josephmangles841]

I love your videos. I always learn so much.

[@TheSuperMegaPlus]

Great tutorial! Obviously! Already convinced a few friends to try this with me! Fingers crossed.

[@edwardromero3580]

Nice work. I’ve been using this or a zenithal primer technique for about six months now. I love it. Been able to plow through loads of townies and other NPCs recently acquired through Kickstarters. With SO MUCH plastic, this method has saved me a ton of time.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Yup its great for speed and the result is better than anything I can do that takes hours lol =)

[@B3457LY]

Job's done! Love it

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers bud =)

[@johnbiggscr]

I love the model.

[@johnmascardo7047]

I love using clear bases too.

[@Oluabayo]

Fantastic looking paint job there:)

[@camdendrake5964]

looks great...obviously!

[@ovan2190]

Great video :) I'm excited about the Frameworks. Hope to get one myself soon, and I'm enjoying the the slapchop method keep up the great work

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Yeah Frameworks figures are great and normaly go together really well, this is the first one that had gaps =P

[@g00se99]

Thanks for the great video

[@alexisacevedo4423]

Good work!

[@markgnepper5636]

Great stuff friend 👏 👍

[@grdhog]

For some reason I had to smile when you were doing his toenails. :)

[@197mmCannon]

Love the video man. My projects for October are for possessed cultists squad and some ASoIaF minis so I think I will try this on those.

[@allenforbes8108]

1) youtube late, 2) it isn't just the technical side that is getting better, it is you. 3) I still think the hollow figures should have a metal skeleton not only to magnetize, but to give heft and a place to hold fiddly bits.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers Allen, yeah my daughter was surprised how light the figure is =)

[@BAD-Canon]

I’ve been using this method for about 6 months now. Definite improvement in quality of my work and faster. Means I get to play more!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Awesome, yup less grey plastic and more minis on the table =)

[@lixentcanada]

I first tried this method on the indomitus launch neurons and couldn't believe that it looked so well and saved so much paint also. thanks to your video I'm going to try this with the other kill teams im making.

[@leschevelusduwargame]

Wow, thank you for those awesome tips! Really love the cartoony aspect it conveys! +1 sub

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers, yeah I realy like the look of this style of painting =)

[@Cynsye]

The army painter blue-grey colour does a pretty good job of reading as metal when used to paint those parts :)

[@BoardRoomGamer]

What a fantastic video! Well done paint job sir.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you so much =)

[@utgar131]

Nice job on the model, the end result is good!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you =)

[@Hateweek1984]

Really appreciate the tip on lights for skin tones.... I'm a newbie and currently trying slap chop on my ork komandos.. Been experimenting with light and dark primers...and digging this method alot! Cheers!

[@artfuldodger9312]

Well, your method as convinced me.

[@xaviert.9566]

AWESOME !!! I really like it ! Regards

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you so much and thank you for the comment, you have an awesome weekend =)

[@sebastiendesautels8567]

I love the result! Makes me want to paint :)

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Do it, I find it very relaxing =)

[@lowriderbug]

I just painted a big mek using this technique, man was it easy and way better looking than a flat primed contrast painted model. 😎

[@leonrog5653]

I really like to use the runic grey from army painter as an alternative for metallic paints over a grisaille. It works really well on shiny swords imo.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

I need to try out nmm =)

[@everthingtotal8798]

Looks great!!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you =)

[@maryann4622]

Nice job

[@joegadget670]

That is an awesome painting technique, obviously!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Obviously you are correct 😋

[@NathanBest]

It's nice to see someone showing the slap chop method with Speed Paints!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Speed paints are great and work very well =)

[@JohnGunter_Johnprime]

Yeah, he did come out really great looking!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you so much =)

[@WargameMiniatureTuto]

Brilliant 👍

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers =)

[@vertigo042]

I recommend using colors other than black as the base layer. You can use contrasting colors. Green as a base with white over it will give flesh a palid sickly tone. Red will give it a richer tone. maroon will make it look more realistic etc.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cool, I will use black as the primner as I have several cans lol but do want to experiment with different colours for the dry brushing =)

[@vertigo042]

@@MiniatureHobbyist yah both the base and dry brush can be used to influence the tonal feel of the model. Cold? Use blues. Hot? Use bright reds and yellow. You can do a lot with it and then filter with the speed paints.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

@@vertigo042 ​yeah I will be having fun with it, I love it =)

[@artofdirecting]

Great video. I havnt painted for years! Is the contrast paint the same as what we used to call a wash in the 80's? And what's the difference with what you called the wash at the end, and the contrast? Thanks

[@TheFleahost]

The wash at the end is a brilliant tip. Thank you so much! If it looks too glossy I hit the model with a light spray of dull coat by Testor.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Yeah I love washes lol, I like figures to look worn and weathered lol =)

[@ValidUsername01]

Great work, obviously

[@ericvaughn2617]

Fantastic work. What do you use (if anything) to seal your paint? I'm always afraid speed paints are going to come off on my hands so I blast my minis with clear-coat through an airbrush to lock it all in shortly after im done.

[@kevinst.pierre4413]

I’ve got an ogre to do from reaper minis. I’ll try this out this afternoon. Looks super good.

[@brandusk2400]

Looks great! Such an awesome technique! What size of brushes do you usually use for this? I'm a new painter & not sure what to get. thanks!

[@nicolasfrancart3953]

Thanks for the tutorial! Would you recommend starting with slap chop for a complete beginner, or is it better to start with more traditional paints to build up painting skills?

[@gunnernwp8392]

Thank you.

[@zackcook5123]

cracking work mate the hill giant is my tied favourite with fire giants. they are fun full jolly lads.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers, yeah I do like big miniatures, wouldnt want this guy sitting on you though lol =)

[@andyf1702]

Good informative video

[@metajock]

Reaper Minis has a line of "super washes" they're testing. There are still some of the Alpha test batch still available on their website. (Good video, I've just got the Super Washes and the AP Speedpaints that I'll be trying out within the week. This gives me a good basis to start from. Thanks!)

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Yeah it seems a lot of companies are seeing this is a great way for us noobs to enjoy painting and get great results, have fun painting =)

[@pablocamargo8744]

Your painting got so much better over the last few years 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Its not me its contrast paints, they do all the work lol, I used to spend hours painting a figure and it seemed to get worse the more I painted it lol =P

[@pablocamargo8744]

@@MiniatureHobbyist 😀😀 than you will love the new Vallejo colors that are coming out.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

@@pablocamargo8744 Im hoping to get a set =)

[@pablocamargo8744]

@@MiniatureHobbyist me too .... Me too 😁😁

[@iceniwargames6347]

looks fantastic but clear basing sends shivers down my spine.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Haha and to me its bliss, no distraction from the model and I can see the floor underneath, if I want a fancy base I will make a diorama for the model, have a great weekend bud =)

[@iceniwargames6347]

@@MiniatureHobbyist Each to their own and all that. Loving slapchop + contrast. Have you tried it with coloured undercoats?

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

@@iceniwargames6347 exactly, we are all different and will love and hate different things, this one had a yellowish dry brush and I will be trying other colours, as for primer I have to use up all the black cans I have lol =)

[@michaciemniewski9791]

I belive using grey primer and light grey drybrush would be more benefitial as the constrast between base na highlight is to drastic for SpeedPaints to show their full potential. Drybrush is a basic technique but takes time to master. That is my advice. To use more gentle colour transition.

[@TheBoogerwookie]

Great video!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you so much =)

[@Allaloneatron]

Obviously this was a great video.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Obviously I knew you were going to say that =P

[@AnonymousOtters]

Quick tip, the Tamiya White Putty is way easier to use than green stuff for filling gaps. Just squeeze out of the tube, paint it into the gaps, and let it dry. The Tamiya putty does shrink a tiny bit, so green stuff is better for wide gaps. I find the shrinking totally unnoticeable on mold lines though and it actually works to your advantage as it pulls in a bit from the inevitable over fill.

[@haveguitar]

Looks really good!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers =)

[@olebrommm]

love the drybrush done here. does it matter what grey and white you use? any normal acrylics? i heard some like the armypainter airbrush for drybrushing. wondering if i gona try that.

[@Starfury0042]

I have to say I learned something today. I used to paint (going to get back into it later this year) and the black primer with light drybrush then speedpaint - gives a better looking miniature than I ever did (other than dragons) because I could never get "flesh" to look right.

[@SSDART]

mate that is awesome

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you so much =)

[@Teremei]

I'm a novice painter and I think my results are really good for my skill level. But I needed something faster for goons. Since I have Zombicide Undead or Alive waiting to be painted. And there are a lot of "8x" of each zombie. Can't wait to get the "horde" painted with this method!

[@chrisshaw451]

Love the look been meaning to try this method myself, it has been around quite a while. Are those speed paints straight out of the bottle ?

[@COBHCdeathroll]

would this work for smaller models like fyreslayers? really struggling with an easy scheme for skin and this looks amazing on that model

[@NatukoAndy]

Great vid and awesome end result +1 Sub 👍🏼

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you so much and good to have you here =)

[@ResettisReplicas]

Thanks for making this video, I’ve been wanting to step up my painting game. What do you do if you make a mistake with the colors? Since the intent is to make them semi transparent against the slap chopped monochrome basecoat, it’d seem like you can’t just paint the correct color over it until it’s opaque.

[@jdmoraleswrites2628]

Well done. How do you think it'd look if you'd used a brown base coat instead of black?

[@viktormas3158]

I like the way you speed Up the Video, this way we see all the steps and it's not a 1,5 h video.....obviously xD

[@Stefan-qv6fl]

Might have missed it in the video, but how did you deal with speedpaints reactivating when drawing on top?

[@qmoor]

you got a new subscriber