Mitchell 302 customer repair. Take apart, cleaning and parial reassembly

[@christopherjenkins2373]

I like to use compressed air to blow out as much sand and dirt out of rotors. Then I use a degreaser/cleaner and/or WD-40. I wish you had removed the bearing because I’d really like to see that done. I want to replace that bearing in one of my 302s to improve the performance. Nothing seems to help an under-performing reel quite like a new or thoroughly soaked and rejuvenated bearing. I’ve also found that taking apart, cleaning and reassembling the bail spring and bail assembly can be very tricky on this reel. On another of your videos you make it look much easier than it was for me. Sometime I’d love to see removing and replacing that pinion bearing. Another great video Dennis!

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I will add it to my list. I get to change the bearings frequently.

[@christopherjenkins2373]

Hi Dennis, watching this for the third time just to look at a few things with a 402 I’m restoring. Finally got both the small and large Mitchell reel tools from a wonderful friend I met thru EBay. He has a large Mitchell reel repair and parts operation on the NC coast. I get all my Mitchell parts and a lot of expert help from him - Carolina_Supply in Snead’s Ferry, NC. He’s the one who helped me with a particularly nasty 488 I was working on. Took two guys to change out the bail spring on that reel and the bail trip mechanism was a disaster. He got it perfect! That 302 & 402 planamatic gear was what I was wanting to see again. This is such a great video. I’ve gotten pretty good with changing the 302 & 402 bearings now. (As long as those set screws aren’t stuck!) I’ve also learned about how to change out the pinion by removing those two c clamps on the axle shaft.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Thanks for the contact information. I will be sure to pass it along - Dennis

[@rabbitbully1810]

Thanks Dennis for posting this. You have a great service.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Glad to help - Dennis

[@EzequielMaldonado-f4d]

Hey Denise I have a similar reel like this one you cleaning.now when I cast it...the line shakes in a ripple motion...and it wort cast far like it used to ....It's a vintage reel ...do you have any suggestion on what I should do to cast it out further....thank you ..ezequiel

[@christopherjenkins2373]

I have 3 of these reels all of which have the ball bearing. Is this reel an early version since it doesn’t have that bearing? I’ve been lucky with those set screws as I’ve always been able to get them loose. I’ve disassembled 5 of these and serviced them. I hate that little key? I’ve actually collected a few of these as I am prone to drop them. I used my PUM version the most. I’ve always thought this is one of your finest videos. This is a complicated vintage spinning reel particularly with that oscillation mechanism. It took me a while to find all those little c-locks on the axle shaft. I don’t often pull them but a few times I had to. This, to me, is one of the most extraordinary spinning reel mechanisms ever conceived. This is especially true considering the original design came out in the 1950s.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I don't know the history of this reel. IT is possible that there was a bearing that got replaced. Yes that little key is easily to lose and hard to find! And you are right about the design. Those planetary gears are quite something. - Dennis

[@donnsponholz9385]

Dennis I have a Mitchell 300S and the bail spring is not closing after the cast. It is aligned properly, not bent. Springs are ok. Not sure what’s going on plus putting bail back on with two springs is giving me a headache. Any pointers?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Yes. A few pointers and tests. First. You should remove the bail wire from both side arms. The one side has the threaded tip on the line roller side and the other is a flat wire that is removed by turning the wire approximately 90 degrees from the set position. Once you have the wire off, you can install both springs and bail arms independently. I would install the one with the trip lever first and then test to make sure that is firing when the rotor is turned. Once that is installed properly, I would do the other arm and make sure there is tension on the spring when it rotates. If there is, then reinstall the bail ware, flat side first and then the threaded part into the other side. Once the assembly is back together, test to make sure it trips. If it is still sticking, then the bail wire is probably bent and would need to be reformed to make it rounder, or the bail wire would need to be replaced - Best wishes - Dennis

[@ChrisSchwamb]

I picked up a pair of 302s last week for cheap. One was sold as functional and and the second was sold a parts reel. The first was taken apart, cleaned and properly reassembled. It works like new. The second was in very good shape so I decided to get the missing parts which are on their way. I should have checked the drag stack which only has two keyed, one eared and the two that create clicking. My question: Why wouldn't a more typical drag configuration work as long as I pay attention to the overall stack thickness using carbontex or similar drags? I'm new to Mitchells and I find their all metal drag assemblies weird. If it doesn't work I can always revert to the original configuration.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Yes - you can try to substitute more modern washers for the original stack - Make sure you have a keyed washer to lock the spool in there s that the stack does not spin - Dennis

[@christopherjenkins2373]

Fourth time watching this excellent reference video! I still believe the 302 was one of the finest saltwater spinning reels ever made. People love these reels just as much as those who love the vintage Penn greenies. I now have both bailed and PUM versions of the 302, 306, and 402 Mitchell saltwater reels. I’ve tried to have these two versions of all my larger Mitchell saltwater reels as well. For instance having both the 488 and the 498 PUM. Interesting that this 302 didn’t have a ball bearing in it. All of mine do as do my high speed 402s. You didn’t mention those nasty little set screws and that tiny little key that are so dangerous and easy to lose. Are there even any set screws if there is no bearing? I have manage to get a few old parts reels for the 302 because of those particular tiny treacherous parts. That little key is half the size of a BB and yet w/o it the reel is useless.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

There were several versions, but the engineering is great through out the line. Saltwater anglers are as passionate about the 302 as their freshwater counterparts are about the 308/408. Well deserved reputations. Happy 4th! Stay well - Dennis

[@michaelkessler4773]

Sir thank you for your channel very well done. I have a penn 209 reel that with your help serviced the clicker doesn't work well. My reel has the C ring type clamp that holds the clicker. The clicker will click about 5 clicks then nothing turn it off and you get about 5 more clicks. Do you have any suggestions as to a fix. The clicker or rhe cogs on the spool doesn't seem worn. It feels to me like it sliders in or out and moves off the cogs on the spool. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

It sound like you may have a worn click ring. If your click button is moving gin and out easily or too easy, then pinch down the top ends of the copper click ring to restore function - Dennis

[@thejim3501]

Have recently acquired a 403 (high speed left handed). The non handle side is upside-down, the Mitchell engraving and Garcia label. Have you seen this be for?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I haven't can you send a picture to my email? [e-mail] Thank you - Dennis

[@stevecarrero4120]

Can you show me the order of the couple pieces that actually go into the back of the drag knob? I have a little copper star like piece and the schematic has got me a bit confused. I’m ok with the drag stack. Just need help with the knob assembly. Thanks Dennis.

[@stevecarrero4120]

Never mind Dennis. I found your video on how to do this. Thank you and sorry that I didn’t look harder before I posted the original question.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Glad to hear it helped. Thanks - Dennis

[@easyfishing9152]

Well thanks for everything, I have my old reel..it doesn't have serial numbers on the foot, And no red bottom.. That's crazy.. Have a great day my friend.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

And I just found one in my back room without the red button as well! Hmmm. Guess more work is needed to understand when they were made! Dennis

[@tango-bravo]

Is it legal to use old reels painted with lead paint if the paint is chipping? I have a few old Mitchell’s but I’m concerned that they might not be legal to use. I don’t want any problems, even though I would love to use them. Also is purple power considered a toxic waste? How would you clean up Purple power

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I haven't seen anything that says you can't use these reels. Purple power is non-toxic but it does contain lye, so be careful when using this

[@GarthGoldberg]

Dennis: I don't think you have to undo the drag to remove the spool. Just unscrew it counterclockwise. They were made to swap spools without drag readjustment. I think only on the very early models do you have to remove the drag to swap the spool.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Yes you can - I knew the reel was a mess. I wanted to show how to clean the drag stack so I started up top.

[@easyfishing9152]

My 302 is full of sand...i just got it for a few bucks...the gears look all clean...it even has green grease on it..but under de spool its full of sand...i really need to take it completely apart...even the bail wire has sand...any suggestions??thanks..

[@johnnywitt1290]

Thank you for your excellent videos. Have had Mitchels all my life. Started fishing with them back in the sixties! I was wondering what type of grease and oil you use? I have three old 302s and eight 300s that I am going to take apart and clean. I plan on using Dawn dish detergent to clean them up. Do you think the Dawn will be okay to use? I have one old mitchell 330 that has the automatic bail but it will not work Anymore, the bail. Have you ever did a video in them? Thank you for the videos. Stay safe and have a blessed day. Johnny

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Thanks for the note. You can use the dish detergent, just make sure the reel is completely rid of it as it will dissolve the new greases and oils if you leave it wet. I use Penn Precision reel grease and oil. I am not particular on brand, just make sure it is a grease and oil made for fishing reels. I have not works on a 330 and do not have that video. Thanks for asking - Dennis

[@johnnywitt1290]

@@2ndChanceTackle I see in the video you are using Penn reel grease. I will be getting me some of this. Also a bottle of the oil. I noticed you only use a small amount of grease on the parts. Did not realize you would put so small amount in them.

[@bernabesalgado9636]

Hey Dennis do you know where to buy parts for this specific reel ? I recently got a 402 size and it's missing parts from drag system... thanks again for great video

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Parts are no longer generally available for the old Mitchell reels. Try searching on Ebay. I believe you can use the drags from a 302 on your 402, so look for both - Dennis

[@joeo1352]

Nice 👍 do you like old Mitchell reels

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I like them for the design and durability. The downside is they are very heavy compared to today's "modern" reels. These were first introduced in the 1940's and have certainly stood the test of time - Dennis

[@HuangLewis]

Does the line roller on these old reels actually "roll" ? Mine doesnt, or not very well..

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Most do not roll on the older ones. There are a few that have the line roller bearing, but most do not.

[@tango-bravo]

I was just cleaning my 302 to get ready for spring. I did some surf fishing with it last fall and I didn’t clean it as well as I should have. I was running a PUM on it last fall but I’m switching back to the bail this year. I just completely disassembled the bail and it looks like the line roller was designed to spin since it is a separate part between the beginning of the bail wire and the arm that acts as an end plate in the part that trips. I assume that if the part of the wire that runs under the line roller is free of tarnish and is oiled prior to reassembly and the nut isn’t way over tightened, it might spin, but perhaps it’s only designed to spin if there is significant pressure on the line when under drag…the line roller on mine appears to be the same nickle plated bronze as the rest of the bail, not hardened steel.

[@BA-ev4cq]

One of my 302 reals the bale hits the handle when i real. Do i just bend it so it doesn't?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Yes - it is hitting the handle because the bail has been bent downward. Just gently resend it upward and that will correct the problem - Dennis

[@BA-ev4cq]

@@2ndChanceTackle i just found out its the rubber bumper but thankyou im going to go through both reals thanks to your video

[@bigskyab]

Soooo.....what happened at the end of the video? Did ya huck it against the wall? We finally got to see some conflict in the reel repair story and no resolution.....lol

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I'm sure it didn't hit the wall, but I suspect the reel was used for parts. I don't recall how this ended!!!

[@HuangLewis]

Hey Dennis, have ever worked on a Australian Alvey reel?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I haven't. We don't see them here.

[@barclaysauers255]

My Dad would always rinse his Mitchell's real good and than hang them upside down to drain the spool cup. Looked a little odd his surf rods hanging up in our Avocado tree.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Made me smile! Your did did well in caring for the reel - thanks for sharing

[@thomasgutzler7447]

hey Dennis do you do newell reels

[@2ndChanceTackle]

yes - I work on Newell reels. I haven't seen one in a while and they are getting rarer to find. Repairs are subject to parts availability. - Dennis

[@easyfishing9152]

This 302 has that red thing on the side plate,,my reel doesn't have it But looks older..

[@2ndChanceTackle]

That red thing is an oil access port. As far as I am aware, they all came with that port. Hmmm. I checked schematics throughout the years, from the first ones, which were made in 1954, and they all show the side plate with the button - Dennis

[@GarthGoldberg]

There is a ball bearing on the main pinion shaft. If you want to get to the main rotor bearing and the pinion shaft there are two very small set screws in the side of the reel body and the bearing and pinion come out as a unit. But apparently the bearings are loose and can fall apart if you're not careful. My understanding. Look carefully at the schematic: www.mitchellreelmuseum.com/index.php/category/261 Parts 34 and 35 are the set screws. 32 is the ball bearing.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Yes - you are correct, you can remove the assembly by backing out the set screws

[@GarthGoldberg]

I'm going to add to my comments on this. I just rebuilt a "beater" 302 that looked like it had never been serviced. The screws looked untouched and the spool was full of salted, stiff monofilament line. 1. If the spool is at all seized to the spindle, you do need to take the drag screw off as you did in this video in order to remove the spool. However, when it's clean, the spool should just spin off. 2. The oscillating shaft is bronze, not stainless. The spindle is machined stainless. 3. The inside of the reel had gobs of brown, dried-out grease the consistency of candle wax. However, none of the parts were completely dry and none of the parts were obviously worn. There was no corrosion at all on the inside. 4. These things are built like tanks. Even though they look like the more delicate Mitchell 300, they're completely different. I think even a $5 Mitchell 302 is worth rebuilding, as long as all the parts are still there. There's almost no plastic in this reel. This beater I just rebuilt feels like a new reel even though there was some corrosion on the spool and the reel foot. The bail closes like a guillotine.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

Sounds great Garth!. I bought out a regional service groups stock of old Mitchell reels including many partial reels. One day, I will get to them. You are correct - they are built to take a beating and will continue long after anything sold today will last. Good job - Dennis

[@GreebleClown]

Thank you so much! I’ve been using the one I inherited from my grandparents and it fell in the sand and surf. I was so worried about messing something up while cleaning it, so this video was a godsend!

[@2ndChanceTackle]

You are welcome. Thank you for watching. Please subscribe to see more to come - Dennis

[@worthdoss8043]

Have you aver considered an ultrasonic cleaner? It would make life so much easier for you.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I have not considered it. Thanks for the suggestion. I will look into it. do you have a recommended brand or source for these?

[@worthdoss8043]

I dont have any information on a brand all the ones I have used were in industrial applications in heavy industry and so on. We used them to clean contaminated gas detectors and aluminum screen air filters.

[@2ndChanceTackle]

If these are industrial, it probably does not make economic sense for me, however, I will continue to check into it. - Thank you - Dennis

[@worthdoss8043]

No just the ones I used, they make them for home owners/small shops all sizes but I have not used them therefore I cant recommend any of them. Thanks for the time to make the videos Dennis. Worth

[@NFStuff]

Need new bail wire to repair :(

[@2ndChanceTackle]

I may have one if you interested, it would be cheap. I have a lot of older reel parts - Dennis

[@NFStuff]

Thank you for responding. After a close inspection I noticed it is a Garcia Mitchell 302 salt water. Would the parts still fit?

[@2ndChanceTackle]

The 302 is a larger reel. I will check and see. I believe that the 303 bail has a smaller dimeter. I may have the 302 pieces - Dennis

[@GarthGoldberg]

@@2ndChanceTackle The 303 would be the same, but with the drive handle on the right side. The handle won't work, and I believe the bail, also, because the direction is reversed.