Mitsubishi Colt Bordcomputer not working Part 1 -fixed- By:NSC

[@gregansen544]

Finally got round to repairing my unit and it's now working well. The changes are very noticeable as things had degraded to the point where the unit would reset 2 or 3 times during my commutes. As well, the CANBUS was being polluted to the extent that the traction control module would regularly become disabled (yellow instrument cluster indicator), as well as the various readouts on the unit itself more often than not being nonsense or just - - -. I would have to say that the electronics of the unit _appeared_ to be in excellent condition. No dust, no corrosion, and really, no visible degradation of solder. But anyway, I resoldered the legs on one side of the microprocessor IC that appeared to sit very slightly less well on the board. Just removed the conformal coating from the uP and did not replace it later. In a couple of cases a leg was in fact connected to an adjacent leg via traces on the board. Although they all looked fine too, I resoldered the CAN bus interface chip, the line filter chip, and anything not too small that's on those lines. Also resoldered the pins of the main wiring connector and the legs of the power supply capacitors. Was cautious, though not too cautious, with heat, on the uP in particular. Didn't use any additional solder there, just liquid flux from a pen. I noticed a couple of other things. The circuit board is prone to bowing, over which the two securing screws may offer some control. Second, in the worst case, the wiring loom and connector can be significantly stressed if the unit is forced into place in the dash, to which the answer is to carefully coax the loom out of the way, to the left where there is a cutout.

[@NSC-Modz]

Yeah, but at last you did a nice job 😀 Now let's hope it will work for some more time.

[@gregansen544]

@@NSC-Modz Only 130,000 km on the car so that would be great. Maybe one day I'll get the roof working. But probably the next thing is a 'door' open signal that originates from one of the roof mechanism boot latches.

[@gregansen544]

Reality is a bitch and the constant vibration in a Colt Cabrio doesn't help, I suspect. Anyway. After a couple of months of pleasure and pride, my car computer again started going bad and soon worsened. I had manually reflowed the solder on uP pins 49 - 64, flux only, no additional solder. So now I added solder. No difference. So then resoldered pins 1 - 16 too. No difference. Ok, pins 17 - 32. Yes! Success again. Having done 3 sides of 4, I asked myself, "Leave it alone, or go the whole way just in case?" Pretty bored with imperfection, I went ahead with the rest. All pins resoldered, and working well. While I was in there I tinned the pins of the board's main connector, being careful to then remove all traces of flux. One or two pins grew too fat and I wicked them back down to size. Don't melt the plastic. Also looked at the backlights. The globes will be long-life but will have lost some intensity over 15+ years. My first attempt at replacement failed. The new T6.5 globes I bought turned out to not fit the the spin-lock carriers. Annoying. Will try again... In the end I found that T5 12V LEDs will fit in the original bulb carriers, and the ones that I bought even turned out to be dimmable to a useful extent. I went 1 red, 1 blue. Later 1 yellow, 1 green. drive.google.com/file/d/1Rj69tPnCmD4R1ZLJHcARQm_oqv883E23/view?usp=drive_link www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005518716993.html Brightness adjustment on the display provides enough latitude to accommodate the vehicle-lights-on condition dimming. The minimum setting of -6, by itself isn't noticeably dim while vehicle lights are off, but at that setting the lights-on dimming then tips the balance to produce a very pleasing reduced brightness level. On the other hand, if I want to drive lights-on during the day but retain full display intensity, I'll set display brightness to 0 or above.

[@Sarmedismail]

Thanks for sharing I just cleaned the yellow shit and now the clock is working. I recommend

[@NSC-Modz]

Great ;)

[@Kitecinema]

The best video about this Colt display repair on whole of YT. thanks a lot. Sadly the soldering did not work for mine. Still a dead display. Is there anywhere i can order one?

[@NSC-Modz]

Thank you so much. I bet on ebay, but you need to clean all nice, before soldering. And please use flux while soldering.

[@swwethome90]

ich mag die blauen displays am liebsten. aber Orange ist auch schön wenn die innenausstattung dazu passt. Cool auch mal sowas von dir zu sehen ^^

[@NSC-Modz]

Klar doch, mache so etwas oft, auch wenn ich nicht immer ein Video dazu drehe, manchmal muß es eben schnell gehen ;)

[@madsn1852]

Cool repair man.

[@NSC-Modz]

Yes, im gonna show more stuff soon about soldering 😁

[@gregansen544]

On my central multifunction display, the readouts of instantaneous fuel consumption and ambient air temperature are intermittent. While driving, the instantaneous consumption mostly reads zero but occasionally a reasonable value. Interestingly, the readout of average consumption is constant and about right. The temperature readout generally shows dashes, but then sometimes, an apparently reasonable value. I guess the intermittency is abnormal, right?

[@NSC-Modz]

Yeah, i mean the multifunction display. You can try to reflow the board, but use flux.

[@rolandotamayo8103]

I have my Pajero Sport/L200 2014 MID, everytime i plug it, no info displayed, only the Compass appearing on the screen, and when i will start the engine it will shot off,

[@miguelangeloguerreirocrist294]

Bom serviço Nuno ,um aparte esses colt não bons carros, o de 99 o meu pai tinha um com 400000mil km esse é que era bom carro pack glx pensava que ia ficar com ele mas um entrocho esbarrou no carro foi para a sucata traseira tinha de ser toda refeita

[@sudhanshukumar-zs9wl]

Hi sir need your help on error su 413503

[@INSTXNT-_-KXRM3]

NSC, ist es schlimm wenn man auf der CPU Kratzer hat wo der eigentliche Chip ist?

[@NSC-Modz]

Wenn du die Leiterbahnen verkratzt hast, dann ja...

[@INSTXNT-_-KXRM3]

@@NSC-Modz Meine für die Wärmeübertragung wo die Wärmeleitpaste raufkommt. Unter dem Headspryder und auf den Chip wo die Paste raufkommt.

[@NSC-Modz]

@@INSTXNT-_-KXRM3 ah ok, ich würde die Fläche mit 1000er Papier leicht abschleifen falls es grobe Kratzer gibt. Ansonsten den IHS so drehen dass die CPU bestmöglich anliegt.

[@INSTXNT-_-KXRM3]

@@NSC-Modz Geschliffen habe ich bereits, das war nur wegen Flüssigmetall das auf dem Chip schon ausgetrocknet war.

[@mytop5602]

Cooles Video. Weißt du wie man das Piepen wenn man nicht angeschnallt ist rausbekommt?

[@NSC-Modz]

Entweder auscodieren oder du kaufst dir so ein gurt Adapter zum rein stecken.

[@mytop5602]

@@NSC-Modz Ein Video zum Auskodieren wär nice ;D

[@NSC-Modz]

@@mytop5602 haha, das Auto ist längst weg ^^

[@joshua_576]

01:32 reminds me of my ps3 power supply APS-240

[@NSC-Modz]

Yes hahahaha xD

[@ReneOne111]

Hi NSC sorry for asking you a other topic. My PS3 super slim got out of order today. It turns on. Green Light go and stay on but no Video or Audio Signal. The usb ports have no Power and Bluetooth also not work. I tried a lot. HDD remove, Service menu, av cable but the issue is still the same. Maybe you know the issue. The Super slim was my OFW PS3 with my Digital games. I dont want to lose Far Cry blood dragon. Thanks and gute Nacht

[@NSC-Modz]

Hello Sounds like your ps3 ss was overheated...

[@ReneOne111]

@@NSC-Modz thanks. I checked everythink and the Thermalpaste on the RSX was very dry. I also belive that the PS3 was disassembly before and the thermalpaste was not replaced and when you want to remove the Mainboard from case you lose the RSX heatsink. My learning: full maintenance even if the overall condition are good.

[@Ramirez0024]

Boooooriiiiiing :) Have ps5 or series X?

[@NSC-Modz]

PS5 is booooring xD My 1080 Ti SLI computer is a PS6 Pro 😂

[@Ramirez0024]

@@NSC-Modz true :) but i dont see U online on steam, do U have another app to chat?

[@NSC-Modz]

@@Ramirez0024 i come today online, need to setup my second computer, and i have WhatsApp bro. ;)

[@patrikhlavaty4170]

To bzučení dělá cívka L18001