9 New Upgrades For Bambu Lab X1C & P1S Printers!

[@ModBotArmy]

Update: VOXELPLA Bento Box now ships with 24v fans and power supply. (No need to use a buck converter)

[@SlinkySlonkyWaffle]

@@ModBotArmy thats actually amazing news, if only i had space for them in my ultimakers xD

[@ModBotArmy]

@@SlinkySlonkyWaffle what Ultimakers are you running???

[@SlinkySlonkyWaffle]

@@ModBotArmy i used to run an ultimaker 2, but gave it to my brother, i now have a tall prototype ultimaker 1 that ive modded to an unrecognizable extent and am planning on converting a UM2 to coreXY (it was a parts printer anyways). my tall ultimaker has a UM2 printhead with E3D volcano hotends in it, dual extrusion works more than well enough despite there being no solenoid to move one of the hotends up and down

[@komischertyp4]

I just put the stock exhaust fan into my bento box. Seems to work fine

[@ModBotArmy]

@@SlinkySlonkyWaffle nice old school ones then. Haven’t seen to many with heavy mods. I got to play around with the 2+ quite a bit years ago, it was a workhorse.

[@Saeschboy]

We just saw a 15 minute panda add.

[@neversinkmakes]

Yeah that was unexpected. Halfway through I was thinking “this isn’t going to be all panda products, right? … right?”

[@cinobro6393]

God that crappy textured vinyl wrap looks absolutely awful

[@ModBotArmy]

Its growing on me, and style/looks are a very subjective, but the main thing is installing it is a little tricky, and I really wish the cutting left a smoother edge. Even with the assisted cutting tools from close up you can see the imperfections. Part of that may have been my fault but given that I did take my time and follow instructions its probably close to what most can expect.

[@michaelgleason4791]

Vinyl should generally be installed with a heat gun.

[@hot_wheelz]

​@@michaelgleason4791 it's not that kind of vinyl. This isn't auto wrap vinyl, rather think faux leather upholstery vinyl with an adhesive backing. Definitely don't heat this stuff.

[@jonwoodvine322]

I agree properly nasty

[@ivantheterrible7377]

I agree it’s hideous. Out of all colors and textures… basketball orange? At least if it was green and pickle textured you could name your printer Rick Sanchez

[@cobra6114]

That is an excessive amount of grease on those gears.

[@ModBotArmy]

@@cobra6114 I tend to go heavier vs lighter when applying grease. It hasn’t been an issue before and you can always wipe up any that ends up being pushed out after. My main concern is going to light and having the gear prematurely wear down.

[@cobra6114]

@@ModBotArmy no i hear ya. My concern would just be the grease migrating its way (slowly and over time) into the portion that grabs the filament and contaminating the nozzle, etc. All good!

[@ModBotArmy]

@@cobra6114 no you have an absolutely valid concern. Perhaps at the very least it makes sense to go lighter where those gears mesh to prevent this from accidentally happening. Its good feedback 👍

[@cobra6114]

@@ModBotArmy much like the lead screws on the X1, they just shouldn't be dry. If you use good quality grease in applications like that, it will adhere well, and provide that thin layer of protection between the mating surfaces of the two gears. Cheap grease will heat up due to proximity to nozzle, gravity will always win, and there will be long term issues. Hopefully I am wrong. But less is more sometimes.

[@ninthislandrc]

As my primary 'thing' is RC, I can definitely say, that IS am excessive amount of grease. When dealing an 'open' casing, such as this, you NEVER want excess grease, as it WILL end up in 'other' places, including places you don't ever want it to go. However, with a sealed casing, such as a sealed transmission, it's ok to have have some extra grease...but, even then, not "too much" extra. Whether 'sealed', or 'open', an additional primary reason for not "packing on the grease" is because excess grease increases resistance, which can lead to excess wear on other parts, including the motor turning the gear(s). Something else to consider is 'what' the grease is made from. The majority of greases are either petroleum-based, or synthetic (such as silicone-based grease. The 'problem' with petroleum-based grease is that you don't want to use it where it can get on plastic...petroleum-based grease will soften & "eat away" plastic. That's why many people use a synthetic grease. For something like 3D printer gears, the best thing that could probably be used is Cera-grease from Tamiya. It is a synthetic & ceramic-based grease.

[@simplegamerz9485]

ooooooo 4min also love how we are still teasing Uncle Jessy about his k1 door

[@ModBotArmy]

Haha Uncle Jessy is the man. This was one of the wildest things I’ve seen on a livestream.

[@the3dprintern]

@@ModBotArmy His authentic reaction was priceless. Also, thank you for all your awesome content!

[@thebatlwgn]

For the record, I've been running BOTH the stock LEDs and the Panda light for the last several months with zero issues.

[@passipassi100]

I would love a video on the custom firmware!

[@berlinberlin4246]

Yes please

[@booyackshaw]

Extremely unlikely you’ll get that anytime soon as bambu’s run better than anything else stock, and the entire main board and chipset are completely different from standard 3d printers, they don’t even have standard stepper motor drivers of any kind so to make a firmware to this new board is extremely hard to do. To just “update firmware” would require a known chipset, and their entire mainboard is entirely new and not geared towards diy or reprogrammable in any way. We actually don’t even know if the cpu is reprogrammable at all and that’s entirely okay because these bambus are just the best printers on the market.

[@marksnethkamp8633]

​@@booyackshaw what are you talking about people are already running custom firmware.

[@booyackshaw]

@@marksnethkamp8633 okay so you want to piggyback a false firmware from an older version of bambu lab firmware so you can fix problems that have already been fixed by just letting your printer connect back to bambu to update to the newest firmware, and in the process waste a bunch of time

[@marksnethkamp8633]

@@booyackshaw with your attitude no one would ever make anything. Why do you even have a 3d printer?

[@Griffin-pg2qb]

Who’s here without a bambu lab

[@mrtechnophile3483]

5:30 no, it's hard to mix up which connector is which. It's easy to install the connectors offset by a pin L, R, up, or down.

[@ScytheNoire]

Wow, that's a lot of grease you put on those gears. :) One disservice of pre-built printers, even ones that come as kits like a Prusa, is that people don't understand you need to sometimes take things apart to perform maintenance. Maybe I should start up a local 3D printer maintenance service.

[@JosephHelmstetter]

Regarding the BentoBox, if it is two 12V fans, you could wire them in series and you will get 12V on each fan. Fan1: red wire: +24V source, black wire to red wire on Fan2. Black wire Fan2 to DC ground on the power supply.

[@NotRobert-sd7fy]

Absolutely not. Wiring them in series will work until the fans become unbalanced. If one fan decides to stall (due to bearing failure, electrical issue, or fingers), there's a good chance that both fans will shortly nuke themselves. A pair of beefy 14V zener diodes, one paralleling each fan would be the paranoid solution.even a resistor would be a better idea. DC/DC converter this size is 1$ likely as well. If you want to cook your PSU follow this person's advice.

[@NefariousElasticity]

Step-down converters are incredibly inexpensive. So is replacing the 12v fans with 24v fans. 🤷‍♀

[@tomyocom5886]

Thanks for Mods, that was a LOT of work. I have noticed when people start modding Bambu that the quality is NOT as good or they never got the quality that most of us get and then modded their machines. I would love to see some prints AFTER all these mods which is the reason for most of the mods. A dirty extruder would seem to have been step number two in search for the problem of bad prints . I also want a diamond nozzle but have not seen proof of BETTER prints. A mod for me at this time has to be an upgrade. I am drooling over that orange peel skin though, haha. Thx for very hard work here all those mods in a very short in relation video.

[@MattWeber]

diamond nozzles arent about better prints. You wont get that.. You only simply get comparable prints, but can do so in materials that would destroy a normal nozzle, like carbon fiber and glass fiber inclusion. The only way to get "better" prints with a nozzle change is from size and calibration of said size change.

[@kevincinnamontoast3669]

I love the look and dominance of the shoddy orange Vinawrrappe. Elegant and eloquent in both hue and sagginess.

[@ZaxMan3D]

Looking forward for the X1-PLUS!!

[@dakotareid1566]

That’s an insane amount of grease, also you don’t need the pcb for the light, it’s only a splitter to run both the stock and panda lights

[@mariospanayiotou6644]

Something you missed, you should run calibration after doing surgery on your printer especially hotend and gear (toolhead stuff). After you changed your gear you only ran a test print.

[@ModBotArmy]

@@mariospanayiotou6644 calibration is very limited on this machine and in the past few things I’ve done it hasn’t been needed. I think the firmware check for certain deviations and auto calibrates but regardless running through the calibration on the screen like you mentioned is not a bad idea.

[@benwhittle7204]

Definitely would like an Ethernet board vid.

[@ericheft6184]

I purchased a Bambu A1S about 2 months ago and while setting up the machine shattered the front panel glass. Totally my fault as I caught it on the back of my chair as I was wheeling around to the back side of the machine. This video addresses some nice to haves: Better lighting and a front panel that is easier to see through to your prints. I'd love to mod by A1S but don't want to mess anything up. I'd really love to see everything running through the local network instead of sending everything wirelessly though to a cloud server and back. Thanks for the video.

[@xlr8434]

Can’t wait to see the P1S video.

[@delta8490]

the mods work on both.

[@bradleym630]

What tools are you use to take apart the head screws?

[@x9x9x9x9x9]

Man i hate how good these bambu machines are. I wanted to stay a hater but their machines truly are good. I picked up an A1 kinda expecting it to be over hyped but no its really that good. The only flaws i have an issue with are the print volume and not being open source/using proprietary hardware. But even the proprietary hardware isn't expensive. Its not like makerbot was back in the day. Also just the ease of replacing parts is super nice. No more leaky nozzles when swapping between them. That alone was the biggest thing for me.

[@michaelgleason4791]

Open source can definitely be culty. "Oh no someone made an awesome printer but it's not open source buh." Right, they made high end features more mainstream and now look at the new printers everyone is making. Competition is a good thing, not something to bemoan.

[@x9x9x9x9x9]

@@michaelgleason4791 oh for sure. I'm very happy Bambu is here and I love what they're doing.

[@LuxGamer16]

I dont hate the printers as they are great (i bit the bullet after my ender 3 switchwire conversion), i just dislike the community. Not everyone, just a couple of bad apples.

[@riba2233]

Well said!

[@x9x9x9x9x9]

@@LuxGamer16 the Bambu community? I haven't come across any one being weird. I didn't even think there was a Bambu community. The only people I've come across being scummy are people who dislike Bambu for some reason. I've asked them to explain why they don't like them but have yet to get an answer.

[@TheTsunamijuan]

If you can't get your extruder gear out cause its stuck... Apply hot air too the assembly from a hair dryer, to soften the filament. I don't recommend a heatgun, as they get too hot too fast, and really your just going to burn yourself unbelievably fast.(since you want to be applying pressure to pull the assembly apart, while under heat).

[@ModBotArmy]

Is this supposed to be a situation where you have melted filament between the gears so you can’t pull them apart to get out? Just trying to make sure I understand the scenario.

[@TheTsunamijuan]

@@ModBotArmy Yes 100%, sorry i am just waking up and not 100% coherent yet :), for instance, i had some PVA stuck the other day. Making it seem like both half's of the assembly, where fused together.

[@ydefy1848]

What a well-timed video for me. I was just about to change the extruder gears in my x1c since it started to have random, very minor stringing and extruding issues. After 1000+ hours of printing, I figured it earned some love and new parts. Ordered the panda jet cooling fan duct and claw extruder gear set for 50usd, which I find is a good price. I just hope the gear set won't introduce new problems in the long run since when you introduce helical gears, you also introduce lateral forces. The original bambu gear set has spur gears. Maybe there's a reason.

[@chriskwakernaat2328]

the color change on that filament cut handle is obvious.. heat exposure? 5:42

[@ModBotArmy]

I think you’re referring to the extruder gear with the timestamp. Could be, maybe a filament swap didn’t have enough time to cool or something. First time I’ve experienced it in my bambus. I do throw a lot of random filaments at them so who knows. 🤷

[@hellwhichnickisfree]

@@ModBotArmy I think 5:30 shows it much clearier. Lots of yellowing on the lower part of the filament cutter.

[@JakJakku]

@@ModBotArmy I believe he's referring to the handle of the filament cutter, which has yellowed significantly. You can also see it on the other side of the extruder vent. Any idea what this might be?

[@ModBotArmy]

@@JakJakku ahh derp yeah I read the comment wrong. I print a ton of ABS/ASA on this thing. It could be heat but I haven’t heard of heat issues affecting the parts. It’s entirely possible but part of me wonders if it’s the fumes/off gassing from the filament as well.

[@UncleJessy]

Oh man I need to checkout that panda door! Fantastic video mate!

[@ModBotArmy]

Haha! It’s a much safer option ❤️. Thanks man have a great weekend!!

[@remiilatte]

I would have loved to see the cryogrip pro to see if it actually works with the no heating

[@ModBotArmy]

@@remiilatte I may need to do a video on it. There seems to be quite a bit of interest.

[@remiilatte]

@@ModBotArmythat would be great since I can’t find any other videos on it either. Biqu needs to get more information on them out there

[@nodashipl]

did you pay for all the BQ stuff or did you get it for free?

[@leesmithsworkshop]

Today I gave my P1P some love and upgraded the gears and a 0.6 hotend to hardened steel, replaced the cutter and roller - wiper thing and cleaned the rods. Then I printed some of the new Bambu ASA-CF and it looks very nice.

[@ModBotArmy]

@@leesmithsworkshop maintenance even occasionally is really important. I would love to say I’m a shining example of it… but that’s not the case 😅

[@leesmithsworkshop]

@@ModBotArmy for me it's normally when something fails for me too, but this time the ASA-CF required the upgrades. I also plan to look at the ams while things are sperate.

[@hotfix7387]

First it was great to meet you in Fabreeko's booth at 3D Printopia (I was the guy with the colored hair with 2 kids and talked to you about your Ikea filament storage system being better than standard rep-racks). You are one of my favorite KZbin content creators, so I was excited to see your video today on a number of items I have been considering. I definitely would love to see you dig into the X1 Plus 2.0 features and especially the capabilities they are adding on the hardware front. Those all sound very interesting and I would love to know more before I take the plunge myself. Keep on being awesome!

[@ModBotArmy]

Hey! Yes, I remember you :). Great meeting you! I had such a fun time. There was so much to see. I think I got through most of the rows but I only got to take in a portion of what was there. Awesome, I hope this helped give you some more info. I dont normally mesh so many things into one video but in this case it felt like it made the most sense. Sweet, yes I will be looking into the firmware then. I am also going to try to get one of the boards they created in. While it wont be for everyone I think its really interesting and I always love seeing what the community is able to come up with. Have a fantastic weekend!

[@CMDRKailoren]

I got the BQ Panda Touch for my P1S yesterday and it's a huge upgrade even if you don't use it for multi-printer connections.

[@JohnOlson]

Do you plan on doing a comparison of the E3D HF obxidian and the diamondback?

[@ModBotArmy]

Hmm, I hadn’t considered it but I could. I already have flow tests done for the ObXidian hf. It will beat the diamondback in that regard. It’s hard to show the abrasion resistance in any meaningful way though without dumping rolls of material through them both and grabbing a microscope.

[@ernieoporto1111]

I haven't seen anyone else comment on this, but i'd be really interested to know how long it is until you need to take that extruder back apart and clean it. That's WAYY too much grease applied in my opinion. Once the fingers are the gears merge, it's all going to be squeezed out. Over time, and probably not a long time, it's going to get everywhere. Probably in the filament path very fast.

[@DBFIU]

Do the heavier extruder gears affect the performance of the motion control system? Bambus shine because they have light weight dynamics, adding weight has me concerned. Thoughts?

[@ModBotArmy]

I’m gonna say no, it’s heavier but not substantial. The biqu cover is lighter than the stock one so maybe it balances? Haha in this instance though it’s all pretty minimal in the grand scheme.

[@hippopotamus86]

Plastic for another reason, it's a sacrificial gear as not to damage the extruder gear. 'Mods' like this are utterly pointless and only exist because the hobbyist 3D printing community just can't help but tinker with things!

[@bigcheesetxmedia]

you can get the e3d obsidian hotend fully assembled now too. i just got one

[@TheCreatorperson]

Could you cover ways to automate A x1c?

[@DrMechxico]

I installed an E3D Obxidian and I’ve been waiting for the panda claw and Panda Jetpack for a month. The Cryogrip Pro is great. BIQU is a nightmare on communication. I just want to see how fast this thing can go with all those upgrades.

[@joeriley192]

That would be great to see the expansion board review

[@Monopek_Cannibal]

3:57, I wonder if wool skins for printers in the form of animals will appear in the future, for example, as from the movie "Dumb and Dumber", etc. ? 🤔

[@Frrk]

That lighting is great, I often have a hard time seeing what's going on

[@TrevorStripling]

What LED strips do you recommend?

[@inkognito_.1]

what is your settings for ASA and ABS for no wraping??

[@meanman6992]

I went for the P1S earlier this year as it’s the value hitter IMO. A dedicated video on upgrades for the P1S would be much appreciated. How long do you think before someone comes out with a different main board for the machine to then run clipper instead of the proprietary software and main board?

[@TheGuyWhoAsked72]

Is there anything to stop the banding issue

[@brucehirsch5437]

Cover the x1 plus firmware please

[@Tarbard]

Good video, i'd love to see another one with more mods.

[@ChristopherRose]

I would like to see the x1 plus video Daniel

[@ModBotArmy]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback. There has been a few that have commented about it so I will definitely add it to the list. I am going to try to get that board in as well.

[@TheHoodGuru]

@4:25 I bet they heard your "basketball look" comment and said Hmmmmm. You never know if they take your recommendations and make holes for the screws and do a little basketball style later.

[@travismohr8391]

Please explain why the panda claw is better than hardened OEM gears?

[@thelastengineer8633]

can u make a more detailed tutrial for the BLLED controller ?

[@CreativeDesign75CZ]

From the mark on the extruder door fan, it looks like you still have an old model. It could be the same fan on the hotend. The new ones have Snowfan branding on them (the original ones just have number markings) and according to reddit they are quieter and more powerful. I currently have an X1 from Kickstarter and a new p1s and I can confirm that at least the extruder fan is quieter on the p1s than on the X1. I don't notice it audibly there anymore with the extruder door fan. But I haven't done my own tests yet, on print quality and possibly reducing the amount of clogged nozzles.

[@richardkoeppel6207]

do you think all that grease will gum things up in the future ?

[@ModBotArmy]

No, things are pretty contained so I don’t see it making its way anywhere else.

[@photofusionart]

Does the bottom of the Bambu get hot? can the unit be put on a table with cloth covering?> thanks

That jetpack blower looks sweet. I didnt know there was so much aftermarket support/interest for the X1C. You've modified your AMS too?

[@Mikepet]

I printed out 270° Hinges for the Glass door. Its so nice since you can really get into the printer and dont hit the door with the build plate anymore by accident. The Panda Lux and Panda Claw i also installed, they are SOOO good. With the Panda Lux i actually work with the stock and the new light, There is no Problems with this though, not to much current drawn. I also have the Panda Jet and seen so much improvement over longer unsupported bridges. It may be a bit pricy since its just a resin print i think that many can do at home but its worth it. I really would like to see a Video about the X1Plus firmware you mentioned.

[@davidjernigan8161]

Maybe a little green or blue locktite on the door screws so over torquing isn't a possibility .

[@ModBotArmy]

I’m always hesitant using it around plastics. It’s probably fine but after my experience having it crack ABS parts I’m more careful. If you pre feed a little into the thread that’s likely no issue.

[@henninghoefer]

2:55 Regarding the door there are good and bad news: The good news is that apparently (according to multiple people on the BambuLab subreddit) new X1Cs and P1Ps actually ship with a transparent (not tinted) door. The bad news however is, that it's much harder to remove (seems to be glued in addition to being held by screws). 6:00 @ModBotArmy How many hours did your old extruder gear have on it?

[@CreativeDesign75CZ]

I don't know what new means from their perspective, but I've had my p1s for 3 weeks and the door is just as tinted as my X1.

[@ImmortalReaver]

Ordered the jetpack and LED bar. Thanks!

[@sopleb5344]

what was the cable clip you used? i cant seem to find the stevebuilds vhb cable tie down stl anywhere online

[@chicabomb5933]

8:55 if you use 24v why didn't you just put the fans in series?

[@ModBotArmy]

I typed up a big old message and then deleted it on accident. Basically, it can be done but the risk is if one fails the other will be taken out. In this application its probably minimal risk but I already had the buck converter and generally prefer to just step down when I can.

[@JanTec3D]

I don’t have a Bambu but the Bento Box looks very interesting, I’ll consider putting one into my Rat Rig. Thanks for the video, Daniel!

[@ModBotArmy]

Out of the options out there it’s my favorite so far. Easy to replace media and holds much more than some of the others I’ve seen. There a version that makes it easy to bolt to extrusions. I would think it would have no issues being attached to the rig 😊

[@MarcoAntonioButron]

Thank you very much for the time and work you've put into this video, it's covered a lot and gave me food for thought about some of the upgrades. Since you asked, I'd like a video covering the Pythin AMS and the firmware/hardware stuff, if you please.

[@NunYaBeezWax80]

going to vinyl wrap mine

[@tenchuu007]

I've been waiting for something in the latest mods.

[@michaelshortsleeves6675]

What LED's (connected to the BLLED Extended module) did you use/recommend?

[@michaelmendoza1818]

I must have missed your video on that AMS upgrade. Good information. I like the lightyear G10 plate but sometimes it doesn’t like PLA.

[@Xaedous]

I wonder if the new 3rd party firmware will allow for a heated chamber upgrade...

[@MedicMainDave]

But when can I install klipper on it?

[@carwynowen452]

Id be interested in a run down of x1 plus from you, especially for the ad on board. Does it also work for a p1p?

[@Florens1989]

I would like to upgrade my hotend. And can't choose between Panda e3d revo and the e3d hotend. What do you think is better?

[@ModBotArmy]

I have the Panda revo but havent installed it. I've had a great experience with the Obxidian for high flow. I also really like the dimaond. Unless you already using a bunch of revos I would probably opt for diamond or HF.

[@Florens1989]

Thanx for the super quick reply 😊​@ModBotArmy

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

2:21 While that sucks, the look on his face is priceless LUL

[@gwenhidwy]

That wasn't even a bambu printer though. It was creality

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

​@@gwenhidwyit's a glass door that swung open and flew off, if it can happen to any, it can happen to all if it's not accounted for. The brand is irrelevant.

[@orozcocris93]

Best plate for printing without using glue? I'll probably do the year and hot end mod. That looks awesome

[@edwinheld3772]

Love your videos. Very informative. I would definitely like to see you make a video of the X1Plus Expansion Board. I am very interested in what that is all about. And how easy/not easy that is to integrate.

[@ModBotArmy]

@@edwinheld3772 thank you 🙏. I am going to add it to the list to do a dive into 👍

[@mtb4thefun]

Great video! Is there a 3d print file available for the cable management clips you used for the BL LED? Thanks!

[@NoMercyFtw]

Plus I think polycarbonate retains heat better than glass

[@SupaaMann]

Super off topic but I did promise to leave a comment on your next video 😅 It was super cool chatting with you at 3DPrintopia and I'm glad you got a chance to walk around and just experience it (on Hector's dime). Any updates on the E3D stroller/bassinet for smrrf?

[@ModBotArmy]

Hey! I am really glad that we had some time to chat. I had such a great time seeing everyone and checking out all of the awesome things. Massive thanks to Fabreeko for making it possible. Haha its not in the cards for this year unfortunately, but I may try to make it happen for 2025!

[@ijexx]

Hi! Do you have a link for the led strip in riser that connect to the BLLED controller. Not the panda lux ones. Thanks in advance.

[@Chato829]

I thought the bento box was made for the p1p as the x1c/p1s have a carbon filter?

[@gslavik]

You could hook the fans in series and no need for a buck converter.

[@donjohnson19]

cant use the upgraded tuchscreen with the stock updated firmwere unfornatily

[@ModBotArmy]

Oh did they end up blocking the panda screen with later updates? There was talk months ago so I never updated my P1S but I never heard it happened.

[@donjohnson19]

@@ModBotArmy yeah from what people are saying the newest update blocked the tech screen because panda is behind on updates

[@Battlewear]

Would like to see more on X1plus

[@troywalker8078]

X1 Plus, please!

[@tracynadeau4]

Interested in the X1Plus stuff. Would love to see a video on it

[@bsorrell98]

Review X1 plus, please

[@ianedwards5941]

What type of barrel jack are you using to power the new BLLED Extended Plus? Also I was on the fence about getting one but now that you can power the Bento Box with the 24V terminals from the BLLED I think you just sold me on both! Great video.

[@Boutsman]

Nice, I have a G10 and G11 plate from VpsData. Really made a big change. That G11 is awesome for TPU.

[@ModBotArmy]

Out of curiosity since you have used both what filaments do you use with each? Someone told me that since its resin coated they should be the same in theory but I wonder if that means a different treatment is used for each.

[@Boutsman]

​@@ModBotArmy It's the same fiber but different resin and a different technique to press the sheets. I use the G10 for Pla, PetG, PC, abs and ASA. All stick and release as they should but for pla you have to run the heated bed a bit warmer then with a pei sheet. 60°C is a real must for pla with G10. G11 can take any filament but you have to print your pla on 65°C. For tpu it's like magic. Want to print tpu? My advice: use a G11 buildplate. Been using both plates more than a year on Bambu X1C, ender 2, ender 3 and sunlu s9+. Really need one on the v400. Pretty please 😅 🙏 @vpsdata

[@Darknynja2]

I definitely want to see a video regarding the X1 Plus firmware.

[@ericjilot484]

I am really interested in the X1 plus video

[@GeekRedux]

The KZbin-speak is strong with this one.

[@user-lx9jm1wo3h]

That was a ton of grease you applied there. LOL

[@Mr_XXX513]

I want to see more video about E3d Diamondback please...

[@Anziilife]

Please cover the X1 Plus project! 😁👍

[@Trust_me_I_am_an_Engineer]

Interesting video ! Nice upgrades! I use the G11 daily with PLA and PETG . And.... PETG didn't stick really well 🤔until after I sanded the plate completely lightly with P600 and washed it with cleaner and degreased with IPA. That is also described at the VPSdata webshop under "Garolite care hub" ( bottom of the page 🧐 ) . So now I print PETG at a higher bed temp of 90°C and 245 nozzle temp for all layers and no fan for first three layers at 0.2 0.25 and 0.3 layer height. Sticks very well. Haven't tried my G10 plate (yet 😋 ). Might help with ABS, but I don't use that. Cya!

[@ModBotArmy]

Out of curiosity do you use the same plate that I have or is it a different version? Thats something to consider. Especially since I was having some adhesion issues with ABS. Wait I didnt see the second part of your message haha so I would say yes you have the same plate. Interesting, yeah PETG stuck really well after I cleaned it and just bumped 10C. Who knows could be a host of variables. :)

[@Screwdriver-]

I can’t find that creepy pumpkin, can you link to it or just a better description. Sounded like Wexter’s creepy pumpkin??

[@jcdixon01]

I am on the fence on whether to get an X1 or P1S. Will these upgrades work on both? I will admit I don;t know a whole lot about the two, but am considering them as I move from single color bed slinger print to CoreXY and color options. Thanks, love the vids, been watching for a long time.

[@jamesocker5235]

Very good vid will be following for future bambu stuff thks

[@johnguynn5212]

Would like to see a build plate video, especially the CryoGrip Frostbite.

[@djmethvin]

Why would also plugging in the stock LED light draw so much power that it causes issues? What kind of issues?

[@sigal5265]

Great video! every time I see a review of the Bambu Labs, I want to buy one. I'm just so hesitant because the Creality CR10 Pro that I had a few years back left such a bad taste in my mouth for FDM printers. It wasn't cheap and I had SO many problems with that thing. One day it would print fine. Then the next 10 or so prints would fail horribly. Ended up trashing it. I just had enough and destroyed it. Anyway, I want a good FDM printer that will simply work. No fussing, no upgrading half the parts to make it good. None of that. I want it to be like my Epax resin printer. Work flawlessly out of box so that I can actually enjoy using it. I'd like high quality prints and could care less about how fast it prints. Quality over quantity is more important to me. I'm ot looking for 8K Resin quality but a nice finish for larger prints or functional pieces would be nice. Would a Bambu be my best bet??

[@ds_cameraworx]

What you're looking for, Bambu is it. No upgrades needed.

[@BLACKSYNTH]

I had a CR10S-pro had it for 5 years Did some upgrades but Very bad. Theese core XY printers are nothing like the old bed slingers. Bambu is great, p1p or X1C, or even better the new QIDI Plus 4, a more capable machine.

[@Amybnuy]

HMM I want that cools kind or the Bambu but as like a insulation for ABS and PC not a fan of the colors and textures tho I don't see the point of the extruder gear though, it also requires grease which can hold and absorb dust etc. also I wonder how long the bento box will last with all that abs fumes and particles going trough it.

[@stevegrimeszz]

You forgot the cnc aluminum extruder.