Is The SUNLU FilaDryer S2 Worth It?

[@cnc-maker]

The trapped moisture is probably why the hygrometer is not measuring what you would expect. If you look at a food dehydrator, or a more expensive filament dryer, they allow air to enter at the bottom near the heating element, and air to escape at the top. There is no need for an exhaust fan, as normal convection is all that is needed. In fact a fan could reduce the drying effects, as the heating element may not be able to keep up with the air flow. With that being said, the top heating element doesn't actually do anything to help dry the filament.

[@zoopp539]

There are two open holes at the top (the ones intended to be used to pull the filament through). So, drill a hole at the bottom and it should be good?

[@suivzmoi]

when Marketing overrides Engineering. a shame really

[@donperryautomotive]

"element on the top does nothing" convection, conduction, radiation. It works by radiation.

[@cnc-maker]

@@donperryautomotive Conservation of Matter, if the humidity has no where to go, it doesn't. Dryers work solely by convection, so if the moist air is not expelled as it rises, the moisture remains.

[@lmaoroflcopter]

​@@donperryautomotive So its hot and its wet. Great if you're with a lady, ain't no good if you're trying to print a benchy.

[@rreiter]

December 2023 - I just got my S2 (amazon, Canada) and based on the whirring I hear it has a fan. Also, the hygrometer works! The fan is fairly high pitched, sort of like what older hard drives used to sound like when they'd "buzz-saw" but just a touch louder. You can hear it from across the room, but in it the setting where I'm using it, it doesn't bother me. In addition to the power bar, mine also came with a handful of small silica gel packs, 4 spare teflon grommets for the holes, and a ~2 foot blue bowden tube. None of these surprise "extras" were shown or mentioned anywhere in the packing list, product description or instruction pamphlet.

[@boundary1918]

The same set 02/24. Ukraine.

[@1967friend]

This review is so frustrating to me. The humidity sensor absolutely works! The S2 is a sealed box. Where exactly do you expect the humidity to go? It needs to be removed from the box. Which is the only downfall of this dryer. Sunlu should have vented the box. You do not need or want fans. Fans were added to the S1 because of its poor thermal uniformity. The S2 corrected that problem by putting a heating element in the lid. Adding a fan would only remove heat from the box and reduce its efficiency. I drilled a series of 1-2mm holes in the lid and bottom of my S2. Starting small and adding holes until I achieved the desired effect. This creates a convection flow of air through the box. Hot moist air rises, and leaves the top. Cool dry air replaces it from the bottom. The flow is not great enough to hinder maximum temperature performance. But just enough to carry away the moisture. My humidity indicator will initially rise as the the filament gets hot and begins expelling moisture. Then it will sharply plummet, Usually achieving somewhere around 5-10% RH. Which is perfectly reasonable considering ambient air is not zero to begin with. The plastic of the box has features molded in that look exactly like Sunlu intended to incorporate vents. So it was kinda a no brainer.

[@ModBotArmy]

From what I have seen in my own testing and also what is shown online a fan looks to serve two purposes. One is yes to help with circulation of the heat but another it to help with removing moisture. Vents may do the trick as well but I like the idea of a small fan with a relatively low rpm slowly moving the air around. And helping to force some of the moisture out.

[@1967friend]

@@ModBotArmy Circulation is no longer required with the 360° heating element. And generally speaking, a fan is far too much air flow for these types of boxes when it comes to venting outside. It’ll drop the inside air temp too much and the box won’t maintain proper temp. Not to mention it’s simply over complicating a task that happens naturally. Let thermal convection move the air for you. It’s free, 100% reliable, and requires the least modifications.

[@MegaMaskedrider]

How many holes did you drill in the top?

[@metalmikecode]

Thank you for this reply.

[@g.4279]

You can also occasionally open it during a drying session, that will cause the hot wet air to leave the dryer.

[@Distorted_Light]

I like people with sensible solutions

[@koenvanduffel2084]

I just drilled 2 10mm holes in my S1. One in the front bottom corner and one in the back top corner. I could measure the improvement in heat distribution because of the natural ventilation. Also the filament dries way way faster. I would not be surprised the humidity sensor is actually correct in the S2. 2 small holes will drop the humidity as it simply can't get out now.

[@Gremlin87]

I have an S2 on the way and I am planning to drill a couple holes in it so that natural convection can help pull out the moisture.

[@andrmiw9]

@@Gremlin87 Can you say its an improvement? How results changed?

[@WarG563]

When the green light ring is set to "On" the ring will light (sweep) up from the bottom while the unit is heating and the ring goes steady when the target temp is reached.

[@ZeeLobby]

Honestly love mine, once I drilled some holes for moist air to escape it works perfectly. Could def be improved, but for the price (at KS), it's good enough

[@crazytrutas]

Where did you drill the holes?

[@ZeeLobby]

@@crazytrutas just along the top. It already has grooves that look like they should be holes.

[@flyingRich]

@@ZeeLobby What size and how many holes?

[@ZeeLobby]

@@flyingRich just about 1/8 an inch. On the markings on the top of the lid where it looks like there should already be holes

[@s3rkanAGA]

I have drilled three 3mm holes on top. I hope it works. Thank you for the info

[@thomasdavis4253]

For things like ASA, you can safely put them in the oven for a few hours at 170F. You'd be amazed at how hydroscopic that stuff is. I try and weigh the spools on a scale first so I can track progress. For an open spool exposed to the air for a couple weeks, you can draw well over 10g of water out of even a partial spool. That's crazy. Also, if you only occasionally need to dry PLA, you can set the bed temp to 50-60C take an old filament box, remove the lid and place it over the spool on the bed and poke a few holes in it. I put a temp probe in and try to keep the enclosed space at about 115F. It isn't ideal but it works.

[@peterpeter5666]

i have both dryers and what you say in your vid is 100% CORRECT! i usually leave the s2 cracked open to let the humidty escape

[@MoppelMat]

I have one for a week now. I love it. It works. The humidity sensor shows something like 60% when putting the spool in and drops to 30% in half a day. Thats right all the info I need!

[@alejandroperez5368]

It should reach at least 10% tho.

[@MoppelMat]

@@alejandroperez5368 it goes to 12% for me after 24h. But its 65% in my room…

[@The_Traveling_Clown]

Thanks for the review, Daniel. I almost purchased the product but after seeing your video Imma wait till the next version. Either that or find another manufacturer of the same kind of product.

[@Patriot1790]

I use one at work to direct feed into my Qidi X-MAX. I have gone through several spools of Polymaker PA-6 without issue. I'll be getting one for home to feed my Qidi X-Plus. I highly recommend this dryer, especially if you want to direct feed to your printer.

[@TTS-TP]

Thank you for this, getting the new plus 2 and haven't actually seen or heard one of these set up with the Plus or the max. Do you have any raised stand or funky setup for the dryer to run into your max? Angled any weird way or propped up to a certain height? Just curious for my future setup with one of these.

[@Patriot1790]

@@TTS-TP No, it's just sitting on my desk. It feeds great.

[@bartsalemink5729]

I was on the fence between the S2 and the big Eibos that takes 2 spools. I wanted one without inside diameter restrictions so I skipped the small Eibos one. Got the Eibos for it does have an exhaust fan. The thing works wonders but it will only alow a max timer setting of 24 hours and because of that exhaust fan the thing is LOUD. So much so, I wouldn't want to sleep in a room next to the one where the thing is working its magic. Harrier jet taking off kind of thing. Had I known that earlier, I would have gotten the S2. And frankly, as long as you're not doing nylon and other high temp mega hygroscopic materials, I think not having the exhaust fan is actually not a downside, for lack of said noise. Apart from the noise, I do love my Eibos though.

[@andrew5821]

Thank you for sharing that, I was considering getting one with an exhaust but now I wont!

[@Lordmattg]

The s1 was actually upgraded a few months ago and it comes with a fan now which makes a huge difference. The fan on mine went out within 2 months but luckily it’s identical to the stock ender 3 part cooling fan so it was an easy replacement.

[@dirediredude]

lol these race to the bottom companies crack me up. So they upgraded the S1 to include a fan with zero announcement, sent a likely pre-production unit to Modbot for review of the s2 with no fan included, and will likely add a fan to that unit in a few months time just so nobody can accurately talk about these things. Yipeeeeee

[@robertwong2412]

@@dirediredude The S2 still doesn't have a fan, so that means the S1 version with fan outperforms it. *lmao*

[@SilvioMaranoSMH17]

​@@robertwong2412 There is new S2 version with fan by same time. But it seems they are unwilling to let people know there are 2 versions, maybe they have still many S2 without fan in stock, I guess.

[@stephenvieira7765]

​@@SilvioMaranoSMH17The new version is called the "S1 PLUS". Works fine and the humidity sensor has read down to 15% with mine over 6 hours. Very happy with the unit, especially at $35 shipped on Amazon.

[@SilvioMaranoSMH17]

@@stephenvieira7765There is also a new S2 version with fan but strangely Sunlu has called it always "S2" without the "Plus" as for the updated S1. So many people don't know that there are 2 versions of S2.

[@XA--pb9ni]

Easdry is just amazing. i accidentally ordered two but i don´t regret it at all!

[@LuisHansenNH]

I leave the cap a bit opened with something small holding it. Works like a charm.

[@3DMusketeers]

I have similar results with this.. My BIGGEST gripe though is the screen and power cord on the sides they are on. I wish they sold a L and R version to allow you to get it for which side of the printer you put filament on. On one of our big machines, where I print out of, I have to completely block the screen to use it. Power plug out the back was SO MUCH NICER on the S1. Also, my S1 has a backlight, I am guessing yours may be a bit wonky :(

[@jimbrust486]

I've found putting a packet of desiccant, the one that good filament suppliers put in with the filament, in the middle of the spool solves the condensation issue with the S2. It would have been great if SunLu had included an exhaust port. Wonder if that is for version 3?

[@ff1077]

Also getting a bag of the reusable desiccants really help out without needing to get a new one every time you dry.

[@dekurvajo]

Yeah... Few holes, 1 fan, whohoooo!!! V3 or V2 Pro. Extra 30 USD.. "did i told you Huang those idiots will gonna buy it?"

[@annekedebruyn7797]

There are printable mods for the S2 that will hold the door open a bit for moisture to escape. Did the sponge thing and it works way better.

[@mmmmmwha]

My humidity indicator works much better than that. I get down under 20% when dry. As for the venting, I just open it and spin the filament a 1/4 turn every couple of hours. I suspect it still drys slow because of the lack of exhaust, but I very rarely have a “rush dry”. I dry and vacuum pack (esun bags) when I get new filament. You are right this is soo close, but not perfect.

[@bwselectronic]

The thing that none of the commercial made dryers seem to have is a way to exhaust the moisture. Sovol recommend propping the lid open for the SHO1 that I have, and to leave the holes open that let filament be used while in the box

[@richardcr8678]

I use the S1 plus . There is a fan in it!!!!! Works great!!!!!

[@ivansmith654]

I need a filament dryer that is quite so this would work on the hours I must be quite because I have 4 neighbors that could hear a fan running, so to be safe no noise is best for anything after 8 in the evening until 8 in the morning, so the Sunlu will run during those hours, and my neighbors will be happy thanks! I do plan on getting a dryer with a fan that will run during the day! All is great in paradise thank you!

[@chemicalcorrosion]

FYI Everyone. Just bought this model. It was an “updated for 2023” version. It has a fan and TWO ports for “letting moisture out”. Of course these two parts can be used as a filament path.

[@alexey_sychev]

I can confirm that. I have to ask Amazon seller which version exact in stock and it is still mixed ones, so you can get old one. But new one indeed have fan (quite noizy btw). After 1 hour of drying RH inside is about 20%

[@garagehobbies]

Yep, just received mine from Amazon. They have some that say [2023 Newest Upgrade] in the title and that is what I purchased. Has the fan and two vent/filament holes. I want to dry nylon with it but am skeptical it is hot enough. If it isn't I can just use it for everything else.

[@mrnlce7939]

Would love to see your take on a DIY filament dryer.

[@michaelmendoza1818]

Yooo, you hit 100k. Congratulations

[@FredHendrix]

Great and thorough review. Thank you.

[@tubegroovin2343]

Thanks for the vid! I see on Amazon the S2 has a new version w/ a fan; although not sure that would make a difference if it's not vented properly. How did you run the filament from the S2 to the printer?

[@boundary1918]

Yes, there is a new version. I bought one yesterday.

[@donperryautomotive]

Bought one yesterday. I drilled a hole in the bottom of mine next to the power socket. Started up with relative humidity in the 90s. After 4 hours the RH is now 75%. Gonna give it few more hours. Drying a bad batch of ABS.

[@donperryautomotive]

Update: Worked well. Filament now printing ok. Relative humidity number was also...relatively accurate. Meaning, I may not be seeing the dead on correct humidity but it dropped from 90s to 30s and that was good enough to tell the filament is dry.

[@SUPPORTYOURSELF]

Thanks for mentioning the LED ring randomly blinking.. I thought I was going insane with mine.

[@bertbeinaaf8314]

It isn’t randomly as fat as i van see. It indicates that the set temperature is lower than the temperature inside, so its heating up

[@SUPPORTYOURSELF]

@@bertbeinaaf8314 Hmm.. I'll have to study mine a bit more while it is running because it does seem like it throws some weird patterns. Usually after it's been running for awhile.

[@Aisaaax]

FWIW if you have a fan that pulls moisture (i.e. air) out of the unit - that only means that new fresh air has to come into the unit from somewhere. Air doesn't just spawn inside indefinitely. So any fan is creating negative pressure inside the unit which means it sucks fresh moist air through all the gaps, and it kind of defeats the purpose a bit. You're basically pulling out hot relatively more dry air (because humidity is relative to temperature) and replacing it with colder outside air. An argument can be made that after heating up and evaporating the filament the air inside contains more milliliters of water dissolved in it than the cold outside air. If that's your concern, opening up the lid every couple of hours should be as effective as replacing the air inside as a fan - minus the noise and energy consumption (for the fan itself and the heat you're losing). This is only true in arid regions though - if you live somewhere in the UK or Florida - you probably don't want to pull fresh air into the compartment as you'd be pulling more water with it than you're extracting at some point. I think you kind of have to use some sort of moisture absorber like silica gel with these things. Without it yes, you're basically trapping all the moisture inside, and the drying effect comes from increasing the air capacity for water by heating it up. So IDK, for me a fan that blows air outside just doesn't make much sense. From a purely physics perspective of how humidity works. Your wet sponge experiment is incorrect, because you're introducing so much moisture into the device without any way to get rid of it. Try adding silica gel and repeating the experiment - I expect that an enclosed dryer will have lower relative humidity than a fan one by the end of it, provided your ambient humidity is high.

[@scarfire87]

Got a Sovol filament dryer and the humidity sensor barely drops 5%. Read a post that said the humid air had no way to get out and suggested dropping a silica packet inside and it did the job.

[@crazytrutas]

I picked up one of these a few weeks ago. No problems here.

[@KarlGosling]

As others have said the sensor is fine, you even point out the moisture visibly inside at the top! lol It's basically a hot box with no where for moisture to go.

[@Armor3dprinting]

i have this filter and although i have only been drying PLA with it (i just started getting into PETG and will be trying that out) i have not noticed any condensation or steam and it drys the filament really well.

[@SilvioMaranoSMH17]

This depends on moisture level and ambient temperature.

[@AstonJay]

I really hoped that they would've included a fan. I was looking at these the last week since I started to use more higher temp filaments that require drying, but now I'm going to look elsewhere. And the fact that the humidity sensor isn't working either, it's definitely out of my choices.

[@andrewfoster4321]

If you crack the lid open a smidgen; I use one of those crocodile clips used to hold a bed to the heat plate, then you will find the humidity drops dramatically (both according to the on-screen display and an external humidity sensor popped inside. One of these days I'm going to get around to finishing this design for Sunlu and drill a couple of small holes in the back of the lid. Other than that, it does it's job pretty well; so long as you facilitate any humidity to escape!

[@Subpilot1]

My gripes are power cable entry and the filament outlet port. Both are in really stupid locations. It is also tippy and will topple over in a slight breeze.

[@bridget_clinch]

I like my S1 with a fan, I drilled a few holes in the top of the S2 and it works ok

[@crowguy506]

Can’t wait to see the innerts of a decent dryer being implanted in the ams.

[@alexcouto1818]

Did you weight the sponges before wetting them? Otherwise how do you know they were the same weight to start with?

[@Waltkat]

I was looking at filament dryers but like this Sunlu, but most do not have a way of getting rid of the moisture which makes them basically useless. For now I'll continue using a food dehydrator to dry my filament.

[@francisbeland8959]

Is it possible that the humidity sensor is working well but since there is no exhaust for humidity to escape, the sensor still give a high measure?

[@PMcDFPV]

Thanks for the video man! Im tryin to raise my bar and this is the kinda stuff that can help :) It looks nice, but the fact that the screen is on one side and the plug on the other, it would make it hard to have like a row of them say hooked up to an MMU or something, also I would think they would have at least thrown a 90deg cable for the power or something.

[@thedudeoffail]

I think the fan mods for the S1 were more for the airflow, than removing moisture. The additional heater should be a suitable fix for this

[@AnthonyUDT]

This ^ I did this for my s1 and I did it to circulate the air so it is spreads out

[@ModBotArmy]

It looks like there are multiple ways the fans were being used. I found a few project files on Thingiverse that are for circulating and then there are example of it being used as an exhaust kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5umh4dmob1-r7c

[@rileyneufeld7001]

Yes my S1 reached 40ishC stock but with a 4010 blower it reaches over 50C and in a hot room will reach 55C throughout the dryer. If you're drying a filament that's super soaked where you see condensation on the top of the dryer you're going to want to open it up and clear it out.

[@NexGen-3D]

These boxes are not for "drying" they are for sustaining while printing, you will need at least 70c to properly dry some filament, I find I need 80c to dry some Nylon filaments, to improve this box as well as well as the eSun boxes, just drill a small hole at the top somewhere and this will allow for natural convection to extract the moisture out of the box, also relocate the thermal sensor away from the heater element to a colder area inside the box, this will allow the box to heat up more. I have some filaments that need to be below 10% humidity, and it can take 40+ hrs at 70c in a food dehydrator before they hit that level, and the filament will not stay that dry if kept warm at a meek 50c it will need at least 60c and the box will need some way of allowing moisture to leave the box.

[@michaelhorton6881]

Biggest issue I have it is you can’t see how much filament left on the drum. Also I would prefer it turns on when powered, this will enable an automated workflow

[@TheMerchMonkey]

I’ve got this one I love it I was throwing away so much filament because it was just unusable but this saves that, not only that it looks the dogs bollocks, I’m buying another one just because it looks so good 😊

[@beta909]

whats the best dry box in that pricerange under or about 50 bucks?

[@richardalonzo2879]

What does the SV and PV temp stand for ? Can't seem to get a manual for the Sun S2 Dryer that explains the settings and functions much more thoroughly. Is this Sunlu S2 dryer used as you print as well ? Or just Dryer , shut off and then use the Filament in the Sun Dryer chamber ? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Your videos are always so thorough , love your videos.

[@ostegonation]

Awesome review! Quick question about the Eibos Easdry; have you noticed any filament warping while using it? I've got the Eibos Cyclopses and I've noticed that it causes major filament warping because of how close the heating element is and because it has no heat dispersion plate.

[@Dark0Storm]

Is the hygrometer not working, or just measuring the humidity of the air in the dryer? I would assume the latter as it wouldn't be possible to measure the actual filament water content. If the filament water is being evaporated out and not able to leave the dryer (due to lack of fan) then it is likely you will see a humidity inside it higher than the air outside the dryer. Of course this doesn't change the fact that it is quite useless as a measurement of how dry your filament is. It might be useful though to know how "wet" it is inside your dryer - if it's very high you may wish to open the cover to lest some moisture laden air out. As an alternative to a fan you could try placing some large packs of desiccant in there to see if that helps keep moisture down (and improve efficiency).

[@Sttreg]

it's been a while since the video, how has the filadryer held up since? I have noticed my asa filament are getting wet, so I'm looking for a filament dryer

[@Phantamosmang]

the led ring closes when it reaches the target temperature. If the temp falls, it will unclose the ring, re-raise the temp until it closes again.

[@aideeaidee1]

Design wise: I don't understand why the display/fan is on the side. If you use the dryer to feed the filament directly into the printer and have a dual extrusion, then you will place them side by side, and you can only see one display. The same for the ventilator. I would guess it would be logical to have the fan on the back, and the display on the front (small sides). Or am I mistaken? I'm quite happy with the results of the filament being in an airtight bucket and silica, but I don't do fancy things (no nylon).

[@SimonCoates]

I nearly bought one of these but then realised it's not ambidextrous - the screen is on the left of the unit and the filament has only one exit hole opposite the hinge. Where I want to position the dryer next to my printer the screen would end up facing a wall.

[@garagehobbies]

They fixed some of this with the 2023 version. The are two filament port so you can put them face to face. Not great due to display but you can do it.

[@DankasorusRex]

Just scooped one for $46 including shipping!

[@oliverkratzer3493]

There is only the one, horizontal, filament exit hole: a top and a bottom one would help when mounting the S2 above or below a printer...

[@michaelcox436]

I have no doubt these things are useful for many kinds of filament. But my personal experience is that I just pulled out a bunch of reels of PLA and ABS that have been sitting around for about 3 years and they all still print perfectly. Just a data point.

[@Furzkampfbomber]

Just out of interest, where do you live? I live in Germany, lot's of rain, lots of snow and generally often a high air humidity and here, it _is_ a problem.

[@brownsome1975]

I keep a pencil between lid and bottom to generate a small opening and bring the RH% reading down to more realistic values. I guess the full enclosure messes with the hunidty sensor

[@jed2055]

I think all you guys who complain about the Sunlu S1 only reaching 55c when you want to dry out for example nylon are missing the whole point. 55c is fine for everything else and if you want to dry out nylon, just leave the reel in longer. That's because drying out these filaments involves 2 factors; temperature but also time. So, if you want to dry out nylon, the only filament that isn't in the table for 55c in the Sunlu S1 guide sheet, just leave the reel in longer than 6 hours e.g. overnight or even less. Time depends on the amount of water in the filament and that's where the display comes in. That's what it's for after all. Why guess? Therefore all things considered including prices of the S2 and other brand dehumidifiers, I would opt for the S1 and in fact just bought 4x S1s which arrived today. They will do me for a good long while. The S1 is way cheaper and will do the job in 6hrs but usually less for 95% of filament types. I will be popping a small hole in the top and use passive circulation to remove condensation. Too easy . . . . and cheaper.

[@agmuntianu]

question: where are the temperature and humidity sensors ? On S1 it was underneath the heating element, so when setting the temperature to 55C, in reality the filament chamber only went up to 40C. On my S1 I relocated the temperature sensor to somewhere near the acrylic lid, and now I get near 50C in the filament chamber, also with this real 50C I was able to dry nylon ( albeit slow, 24 h )

[@AdrianoTassini]

My unit turns the led ring off after one or two minutes, despite the settings in led button. Is it defective?

[@accesssaskatoon1163]

I have a Sunlu S2 dryer and recently the fan has started to buzz, it is basically the sound a dirty computer fan makes , It was quiet when I first started using it. I just want to get to the fan and either clean it of replace it. Question, How to I get this thing apart to get to the fan to do the work without damaging anything? Help???

[@emberthesunbro]

I might buy it and then just use a circular bit to cut a hole in the side and install a little computer fan. Then again I might just keep using my food dehydrator as that seems to have solved all my moisture issues.

[@tommyc8333]

Just bought the S2 (haven't even taken it out of the box yet) in hopes of being able to dry nylon. I've been using (2) S1's for the past year (both with the fan circulator mod), and NEVER got either 1 of them over 47 C..even with the fan. However I did use 2 packs of descicant in the S1 and it seemed to work well enough for PLA and TPU. I'm not happy about the S2 only having that 1 port for filament exit, and coupled with the one sided display makes it hard to place on my desk....but it is what it is. As long as it get to 70 C as advertised, I'll throw in a couple packs of descicant and make it work.

[@chrissinclair4442]

Mine is hard to turn on and the back-lit display doesn't stay back-lit very long.

[@JohnDStrand]

Why is it that a food dehydrator is about $40, but all these filament dryers are like $70 or $80? Aren't they using the same components? I think an aquarium heater in a ventilated box would do the trick. throw an arduino nano in there to measure temp and humidity.

[@JFGallant]

The moisture is relative to temperature ( why it's call relative humidity ). 30% humidity at 23C when you start your dryer and 30% of humidity at 60C when it's reach it's temperature don't mean the same amount of water. And relative humidity is a saturation % of water in the air before the air can't accept more moisture , humidity in filament is % of the weight the water took place. So not sure the moisture display on dryers means really something. And for me the sponge test make no sense too. The sponge will dry kicker in your room with a fan too until it's reech a limit because of your room humidity and temperature. The thing you need to know is if the dryer push the limit further than just left it dry in your room. Because this is what happen with your filament. The filament absorb or reject moisture until it's balanced with your room. Don't know if I'm wrong but it's how I understand it.

[@MakunaRGBIC]

Does a fan help if the room humidity is higher than 50%? Pulling in humid air means it has to overcome that input also, and quickly. But you state you wait several hours before printing, so it seems none of them work quickly.

[@melangkoh4184]

a lot of humidity sensors seem to have problems with readings lower than 30%...i build myselfe a dry box and put a huge dehumid.packge in there, its made for getting moisure out of cellar rooms. So probaly around 1 pound of silicate or sodium or whatever it is. All that for a box that is maybe 60-70liter volume. I mde sure everything is airtight, used rubber sealing strips...humidity went down fast as expected, but then stopped just under 30%, and now even after a month, it always shows something between 25% and 29%. I used 2 different hygrometers. That being said, theyre digital, very cheap things. From a common sense point of view, there is no way that its still over 20% in there. Anybody had the seem or similar experience maybe?

[@danielgeorge4992]

How do the dryers compare as far as the wattage? If you use more heat to maintain constant temp with air flow that would speed drying time.

[@JN2023]

Does the S2 filament dryer work with a 2,5kg filament or only 1kg? Would be great if someone came up with a drying solution as well as continuous info on how much left on the filament roll. Then again I could always put the filament dryer on a scale with wifi weight alarm. Got no run out sensor on the V400.

[@Sanchizle]

Do you unplug your SUNLU S2 when not in use or do you turn off?????

[@xenon2008]

I also ordered a Sunlu Filament Dryer S2 and received it today. Unfortunately, there is no fan installed here. According to the description on Amazon and also the photos should have a fan. Does your device have a fan?

[@automaticprojects]

What’s your opinion of it now? I’ve been using a PrintDry for over a year but it’s so noisy that I’d love to get a quiet solution as long as it works.

[@ajpereira2868]

I have been using 2 of them and they both start around 70-50% and it drops slowly over time and gets to 12-13%

[@renderuthis]

to pull moisture out wet air has to come in, other/some dryers have fans to circulate only.

[@soggynode]

I've seen a few reviews on other brands that have a small compartment where a desiccant pack can be installed. That might help to remove some of the residual moisture if an exhaust fan is not an option Sunlu wants to add. I have a S1 that I've been using for about year and it's held up well enough. After a long print of PETG, I put the spool in the S1 and let it run for a few hours before putting it back in my dry box. Guess it does something because I never issues printing PETG.

[@SilvioMaranoSMH17]

This is an interesting idea but desiccant should be well insulated from the heat, otherwise it releases moisture trapped in it.

[@soggynode]

@@SilvioMaranoSMH17 Quite right. The current version of me is a little more knowledgeable than that old version of me. I do sometimes put desiccant packs in my dryer to dry them out, but not while I'm drying filament.

[@Classcelementmultimedia]

I know this is not a big issue but how do you get the LED to constantly run? I put it in run and it just dims after 20-30 seconds

[@OmairArif]

They made a revision of this device, which you and I both have. The new revision makes the ring and backlight turn off after 30 seconds (making the LED Ring pointless) with no way to disable this feature (I asked support). The revision also added a fan to the chamber though. The fan is underneath the bottom heating element, which circulates the air around in the chamber and makes the humidity reading more accurate. There is still no intake/exhaust though, so it is still trapping the moisture in the chamber. I ended up drilling a couple holes in the top and bottom of the chamber to help moisture escape.

[@D4RKFiB3R]

​@@OmairArifThank you for that info. It's baffling to me that they would omit such an obvious feature, such as ventilation, even in the updated version. Also, only allowing the filament to exit from 1 direction is another oversight. I will have no option other than to have the LCD screen facing away from me. So smart, yet so dumb.

[@jgame8730]

Can you fit a big spool of fillament inside, like 1kg?

[@jessicaalvis7063]

You should do a review of the creality Space pi plus ❤

[@Planes9905]

Im wondering if the designers knew exactly what they were doing. Ofcourse they're aware that adding a fan would exaust more of the moisture. But they also know how much adding a fan increase the cost of production which then drive up the price for the consumer thus driving down sales ultimately... But they also probably realized that the job was still getting done at the cost of a little more fan run time. The moisture is still being baked out of the filiment eitherway and sticking to the sides. Doesnt really matter where it goes so long as it isnt back into the filiment. Thats on you removing it in time😂 They should have just had a couple of small slits cut into the cover so it had somewhere to go as the pressure built up from the humidity, forcing out 99.9% of the moisture. 😂🤣😂i have no idea...i dont even own one of these things...im just doing my research before hand still... You still here? Do you have one of these? Oh yeah, Do you like it?

[@HReality]

Opened one today.. plugged it up and it immediately turns off after I turn it on. Very disappointing so I’m going to let it sit for a day or two and see if it’s a glitch

[@uniquedata9460]

I have not seen any filament dryers that include a vacuum pump for 3D printing which most (if not all) filaments for 3D printing require (NOTE: Not all plastics require drying.) I find it odd as the industry drying standard in the plastics industry is a heated vacuum pump system. It's not rocket science. The vacuum allows a lower drying temperature which causes less damage to the plastic. Does this type of filament dryer exist for 3D Printing?

[@ShahriarFarkhan]

How did this work for you long term? Do you think it will work for Nylon and ABS?

[@jerrypatterson55]

no clear top to see if the spool is spinning and these clam shell type ive had one it binds up with certain filament rolls so your prints could skip.. also no 90 degree power cable .. and its odd you have to face it to you so only one side can work with your printer put this on the other side so limiting the right side of a printer to use it on.. also no bluetooth? would be nice to hear a chime when its done or a text etc maybe a weight sensor no seal to keep air out.. no time to detect whe it hits a certain moisture level should turn on automatically or manually if you want

[@sabotage3d]

There is S2 with fan now can someone confirm if it is better over eibos?

[@Swans_And_Ducks]

I’ve just used mine for the first time and propped the lid open 5mm.

[@MB-lh5kw]

Hi , when the S2 is on maximum temperature how hot is the outside of the case , could it be to hot for a child to touch?

[@metalwolfy82]

I'm really not sure after watching this if i should get a sunlu s1, s2 or the other one he mentions.... argh!

[@lam_xyz]

Hey, 6 month later, what is your long term opinion? Worth it or better buy some different device?

[@ModBotArmy]

I would opt for the easdry. This unit works but I definitely prefer the easdry.

[@critical_always]

I have four s1 dryers side by side. They work quite well. The only gripe I have is that the lids are transparent and they open in an inefficient way. This new thing... Screen on the side? Power on the side? Touch screen? Come on. It's a dryer. Come up with clever stacking solutions rather than this nonsense.

[@SK-me9by]

I would guess it's called planned obsolesce, one of the next releases will most likely have a fan.

[@OmairArif]

They revised the S2, new units have a fan. It doesn't exhaust though, it is just under the bottom heating element and circulates the air around the chamber. It makes the humidity sensor more accurate though.

[@ziggystardog]

Any data on the long-term durability of these? I’ve found most dyi desiccant box solutions degrade the box plastic over time.

[@boundary1918]

are you going to live a hundred years?

[@ziggystardog]

@@boundary1918 frankly it’s likely given my family background. Multiple centenarians and most relatives living past 90. I’ve had dry boxes that didn’t last 6 months. Plastic split and crumbled.

[@boundary1918]

​@@ziggystardogTo live 100 years and be conscious, you need to have good luck. Good luck! :)

[@leochen4891]

I guess the theory is that water vapor expands and exits the enclosure anyway, maybe.

[@sergioxela]

Made a test... turned on the Sunlu 2 without fimement and had 45% humidity, it takes around 24h to lower the HR :/

[@andreicheptea8020]

bro why aren't you using your printer bed to dry the filament??? Its FREE just put the filament's box on top of the bed with a couple of holes on top and put the filament spool underneath it. Also love your vids!

[@curlydogusa]

But how do you change it from Fahrenheit to Celsius?

[@PyroEvil]

with the set button go to PV and click the arrows to cycle between celcis to fahrenhrit.

[@hmakky]

hmmm i might design and print a exhaust fan attachment