Model Railway Layout Part 5 - Laying Track

The fifth part of a series showing the construction of a permanent model railway in the spare room. Part 5 - Laying the track and pinning down, including using track cutters on flexible track. Plus, a surprising fact about old hornby track.

[@acook9378]

Very informative especially the correct way to cut the track, thanks again, Phil

[@MyChaz2]

Great video. love the use of the bolt to drive the track pin in and the spacer

[@TheNorthwestWind]

you are a good father

[@gacj2010]

you are a wonderful instructor // thank you from New england

[@geezenstacks]

Your welcome. Any questions along the way, just ask!

[@locomotiveAlex1996]

this was very interesting to watch, its nice to see someone plan every single step in such a way, it looks like itll be constructed into a well-oiled machine, keep up the good work :D

[@geezenstacks]

Thanks. By planning the videos it helps me plan what I am doing and ensures I get it right (most of the time!)

[@aplinewalker]

Another clear and concise video, I have often wondered whether there is far too much talk and hype about track underlay and cork etc. and the foam underlay is also a silly price,,, its nice to see someone with the conviction to take his own route.

[@geezenstacks]

I had foam underlay when I was a kid and over the years it decays and goes all powdery. Noise is noise and hard to eliminate completely. Besides, if Brian Lambert doesn't need underlay...that's good enough for me!

[@royatkinson9879]

Alan Plumb )be nb

[@billgeorge7745]

Alan Plumb ,

[@CZ350tuner]

If you read the original Peco instructions for flexitrack you see that you are supposed to cut the chairs off of the end sleeper, with a sharp craft knife, to allow for the fishplates. Their recommended method eliminates the problem of unsightly sleeper less gaps, unlike if one does things the wrong way such as how you've cut the track. I've used this method for N, OO9, TT and HO/OO Peco flexitrack for decades.

[@geezenstacks]

@Andy - What the Peco instructions say is "to achieve uniform sleeper spacing it may be necessary to cut off the rail fixings of the end sleepers so they can easily slide under the joiners." There is no way to get the fish plates on the rail ends with a sleeper still attached. The plan is to trim the top of some spare sleepers and slide them into any gaps. But there's no point in doing that until ballasting, which is what I am working on now. Perhaps you could upload a video of how you did it.

[@patmcdermott4832]

Found archimedes drill driver on e-bay and at Maplins one now on order. Wish I'd known of them several hundred track pins ago :-( Thanks!

[@geezenstacks]

I guess so, but if a job's worth doing then it's worth doing right! The other thing is that it can all be done slowly so that you don't have to spend a lot at once. Also you can make a smaller layout, or build in sections.

[@Rodneys_Cool]

You could have used cork under the track and this would create a shoulder for the ballast and smoother running. Why have you not done this before you laid the track?

[@geezenstacks]

Unfortunately, a change of job has meant less free time, plus there is lots to do around the house. But I am slowly getting there. It is good fun to build and create as well as to use it all.

[@JohnoBloke82]

You would have finished it by now? If so do you enjoy using your incredible creation?

[@hornbyboy100]

cool keep it up :)

[@geezenstacks]

Hard to say really - the wood was about £150. A lot of the track I already had, but the stuff I bought was about another £150. Electrical stuff like wire, etc. was about £50. As an ongoing project it now needs time more than money!

[@CZ350tuner]

The late 1970's / 1980's Hornby Railways were made by ROCO in Austria.

[@geezenstacks]

It is 263 cm by 248 cm (just over 8 foot square).

[@pontyperv]

Great work but just one question. I notice you never used any cork or similar for the top layer of the baseboard. I thought this helps with smooth running and sound deadening ?

[@geezenstacks]

I know that some people use cork or other material under the track. Most of the running noise is amplified by the boards so there isn't a huge difference. The trains seem to be running smoothly at the moment - only time will tell! I admire the work of Brian Lambert and since he doesn't use cork I have followed his lead.

[@sergioarroyoguerrero5434]

Las vías Peco HO , yo prefiero Atlas y Bachmann código 80 escala N , con hoyos en las traviesas para los clavos sin terraplén en vías Bachmann.

[@PaulSmith-pl7fo]

Hi. There are many videos showing how to lay track, but not a single one shows which part of the track to lay first - a curve at a corner, or a straight elsewhere. I know that each layout is different, but there must be consistent solution; which is it, please?

[@geezenstacks]

I'm not sure it really matters as I was working from a plan with measurements. If I remember correctly I started with the inner loop on a point.

[@patmcdermott4832]

Where did you get the small archimedes drill for fiting the track pins please? Not seen one before just a manual version that can fit into a larger drill head. Yours is much quicker!

[@geezenstacks]

Maplin!

[@JohnoBloke82]

So its more or less how perpared you are that makes it more expensive or less.

[@callumjones3258]

High nice layout how big did you say the room was

[@Vikram-od6ur]

can u please tell me the name of the track , not the hole track just the type of metal rod used

[@paulalderson6920]

What's the trick using Peco rail joiners (SL-10)? No matter how clean the track cuts are, I cannot get the joiners on the track & it's especially hard trying to fit the second track. What am I doing wrong?

[@geezenstacks]

Are you using Xuron cutters? If so, make sure you cut top to bottom of the rail and the flush side of the cutter produces the neat end on the rail. You might need to use a needle file on the ends if the rail profile is distorted.

[@geezenstacks]

@ Cornish Gateway - please scroll down for previous detailed answers. Thanks.

[@johnnyjrotten59]

+Moorway South my earlyt rack was made in england but in the late 70s there was a switch to made in Austria

[@JohnoBloke82]

How much did the entire project cost?

[@TheAudiostud]

Can I ask why you decided not to use Cork Underlay, you sound like someone who is used to building layouts, I & other builders I know use Cork underlay to stop the acoustic resonance you get from the Loco & Wagons wheels as they rotate, I have a Neighbour who when building his layout had acoustic tape made, a bit OTT but it did the trick, of course you can always place tiles under the board should the noise become to irritable! Other wise I've enjoyed watching all your videos "Great Work, Well Done"

[@geezenstacks]

TheAudiostud Thanks for your comments. Actually, this my first proper layout. Please read further below about my reasons for not using cork.

[@gregbrassington9369]

Cork doesnt make it any quieter after you ballast it is all as one . It only gives a shoulder .

[@patrickmasse7159]

With xuron is It possible to cut in diagonal ?

[@geezenstacks]

Interesting question...not sure why you would want to... but I have just tried a few times and yes it works. Not as neat as straight and the bottom flange lifts slightly but that can be straightened. So, yes, you can cut diagonally with these cutters.

[@patrickmasse7159]

Thank you for your expérimentation. I want to build a layout on several modules all around a room.

[@muaazameen2082]

Hy I want buying this treack. ..plz gaid me. ..

[@g0nnag3tcha2day]

No roadbed, why?

[@geezenstacks]

I thought about it, but decided against it. Because the boards are all fixed there will be a lot of noise and a cork bed wouldn't eliminate it. I'm not too bothered about the height issue.

[@rubber20021]

no #2 screws....nails work loose.

[@geezenstacks]

How did screws work out on your layout?

[@rubber20021]

still in the works.

[@rubber20021]

Benchwork will be underway... long way to go. my previous layout n scale, was quite successful though~!