Model Trains 75 - Hither Green in O Gauge. Tutorial in Wiring Peco Points for DCC, a how to guide

As promised, part of laying tracks requires some basic modifications to Peco points to ensure reliable conductivity over time.
In this case, removing a couple of bonding wires, and adding 2 more

[@tomhiggins4124]

Hi Excellent !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

[@47606odin]

Thanks

[@anthonybradford1041]

hi I have 0 gauge but dc I still modified the points for better running of locomotives works great nice video Anthony

[@47606odin]

Thanks

[@mattbarker581]

Hi, great video ( I'm thinking of going to DDC for my little shunting layout) I do not plan on using point motors, so would the steps this video be identical for non point motor operation? Cheers, Matt

[@47606odin]

Yes, exactly the same

[@gppsoftware]

The problem I have found with these turnouts is that even if you do bond the closure and stock rails, the fishplates fitted to the 'loose heal' switch blades are not reliable. When a short wheelbase loco runs over the actual switch blades, the connection with the stock rail is lost and isn't aways compensated for by the fishplates. The loco stops. The situation is worse if you paint the sides of the rails. The fishplates are fixed to the switch blades, so I have soldered connections to the undersides of the fishplates and this fixes the problem permanently. In comparison to their OO brothers, these O gauge turnouts are rubbish and show their 1970's origins! They are long overdue an upgrade. BTW: There is no such thing as wiring for DCC. There is only wiring live frog turnouts correctly or incorrectly, irrespective of the power source.