Updated: EASY Way to Remove Eduard Decal Cover Film! | Quick Guide

[@ModellingWeekly]

I hope you found this useful :) Another build video will be coming out in the next few weeks!

[@pawpawstew]

Thanks for taking the time to do these tests. Everyone has opinions on this. I actually applaud Eduard for thinking outside of the box and developing a product that as the potential for giving me decals that truly look painted on if this technique is applied. In the course of scale modeling history, such out-of-the-box thinking has led to many products that have made our hobby more enjoyable and the outcome of our efforts more satisfying. Whether you like this process or not, Eduard is a forward-thinking company Note on the no-clear-coat cabal. A clear sealer protects your paint coat from handling smudges, prepares it for weathering/washes, and protects it from setting solutions marring the paint. So, Don't mind them. Keep on clearing!

[@Bert-d8d]

Wauw! This is fantastic! Thanks! My contribution to this great technique: -Use Zippo Lighter Fluid (as on the metallic container it comes in= FEURZEUGBENZIN= ESSENCE A BRIQUET= AANSTEKERBENZINE ) -I use this Zippo stuff and it works great; work from the edge of the decal, roll it up wit a stif brush in a "sticking" motion, not in a dragging motion. -Zippo evaporated quick and clean, without any residue on the surface. -Zippo is also great because it does not attack the paint (not even metallics! but be careful, always test!) -Zippo also works great for cleaning/feathering Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color. -MIG odourless enamel thinner A.MIG-2018 totally did not work for me as comapared to Zippo -Mr Hobby Aqueous Hobby Color Thinner does work, butit is more agressive to the base coat and the decal under the removable film -Do note that removing a cover film is obviously more tricky and difficult when you have hammered/melted it down with a decal solution on top of the decal! -Strong decal solutions below the decal may also "melt" the decal AND COVER FILM, so reducing your succes of easily removing the cover film. -I had good results with Humbrol decalfix below AND on top of these decals; the film needed a bit more persuasion but it dis come of rather easy and clean! I hope this helps those who have a hard time finding "the right white spirit" for this job, as in the Netherlands, white spirit is not a common known thing,. Zippo lighter fluid is mostly sold in the small cigarette selling shops all over the Netherlands in 125ml black and red colored rectangular shaped metallic containers.

[@scalewise]

Great guide, thanks! I used the same technique with Tamiya X-20 (not X-20A) on my Eduard Wildcat and removing the carrier film was a breeze.

[@ModellingWeekly]

No problem! Glad it worked out for you, it's saved me so much time haha

[@goforitpainting]

Really cool model and paint job.

[@ModellingWeekly]

Thanks :)

[@jameshall1300]

I'll have to try to remember this if i ever actually buy any newer eduard kits. I had to put myself on a buying hiatus until my stash is worked down to a more reasonable level 😂

[@ModellingWeekly]

Very very sensible, I wish I had your level of restraint 🤣

[@jameshall1300]

@@ModellingWeekly if you see my stash your wouldn't be using the word restraint

[@ModellingWeekly]

@@jameshall1300 I see I see haha

[@yorkshiremanmodels]

thats a fantastic tip to remove the film i will be doing this the next time i do a eduard kit with the new decals and the model looks fantastic 🤩

[@ModellingWeekly]

Cheers mate!!

[@johndillon8051]

I have heard not to use enamel thinner as sometimes they have much more aggressive chemicals in them that can mess up the underlying paint. Stick to white spirits or mineral spirits (as they're known in the States). These decals are reaching popularity only previously achieved by Revell of Germany kit boxes.

[@ModellingWeekly]

Ah, good to know - white spirit it is 👍

[@ricardoroberto7054]

That camel is superb.

[@ModellingWeekly]

Cheers :)

[@nikolaosstavrou5327]

very nice tip!

[@FlokisModels]

Definitely have to try this next time I use these decals. I guess I'm in the minority camp here that really likes them. Especially over Tamiya decals

[@ModellingWeekly]

Definitely, it's a handy little trick! Yeah, I get that they're not the best but I really think the hate they're receiving is unjustified

[@galileogalilei6173]

This is good to know. Thanks much!!

[@ModellingWeekly]

No problem!

[@ljscalemodels526]

Hey there, very helpful video thanks for sharing, cheers Liam

[@ModellingWeekly]

No problem!

[@JamesA2]

Hi interesting technique, can you please qualify if you use odourless or normal white spirit?

[@ModellingWeekly]

Hey! I've only ever tried it with normal white spirit, though it could fully work with odourless thinner so I'd give it a test if you want

[@jbmatey3072]

Hi there ... could you answer a quick question ... when painting and detailing a model surly the best way is to have the model on a firm surface ... then the only moving piece is the paint brush ... I see lots of videos show model being held and in the other hand the brush ... both moving independently ... how do you get very fine detail ???

[@ModellingWeekly]

It's honestly up to the individual, I personally find more control in holding both the tool and model at the same time, as I can coordinate movements to make painting easier for example, however for some this might not be their preferred way of doing things

[@joshuamurphy4928]

Much better way to do it. 👍👍👍👍

[@ModellingWeekly]

Glad you agree!

[@CIAisntreal]

Just got to ask ( I doubt I'll get a reply as this is 2 months late), but will I be able to use decalfix or microsol and varnishes over the decal once I've removed the film? Or will I have to do both of these before removing the film?

[@ModellingWeekly]

Hey, I tend to use them before removing the film, as ideally you want a really strong bond between the decal and the surface so that the colour remains unaffected. I've not used decalfix, but this works great with Microsol :)

[@RowanvanTonder]

This worked well for the roundels but unfortunately damaged the code lettering on the side of my Eduard early Mk.1 spitfire, no matter how careful I was. I used AK white spirits and a cotton bud.

[@ModellingWeekly]

Sorry to hear that! Make sure that you use plenty of setting solution so that the decal really sticks to the surface properly - softening solution also helps the decal make full contact with the surface. I'd also recommend using a brush instead of a cotton bud, as a cotton bud is quite rough and the friction can damage the decal :) p.s. sorry for such a late reply, have had a massive backlog of comments haha.

[@MTAviation123]

does this work with other decals?

[@ModellingWeekly]

@@MTAviation123 I'm afraid this only works with Eduard's new decals as they print them in a unique way to other manufacturers

[@MTAviation123]

@@ModellingWeekly oh thank you anyways😁♥️♥️

[@pauldavidson3705]

Why would anyone risk damaging their work with these decals, just not worth the hassle. Can’t imagine for one minute doing this with all the stencilling. Massive own goal from Eduard. Just give us some decent decals like the Cartagraph ones supplied with their earlier kits even if it costs slightly more

[@pauldavidson3705]

Thanks for post this information nevertheless, I’m sure your efforts are appreciated

[@ModellingWeekly]

Yeah I mean they're not great decals, but removing the cover film definitely helps to make them a lot more presentable (as it's quite thick compared to others) - the risk in damaging the paint work and/or decals with this technique is low (if the steps in the video are followed precisely), and the cover film reacts really quickly to the white spirit so removing large quantities really wouldn't take that long. It's purely down to the individual, however, as I mentioned in the vid

[@yellowlighthouse3057]

Can you do this with any waterslide decal? I've ordered a 1:18 F1 car model and the carrier film is extremely thick and bridges over the matte paint, making it very obvious.

[@ModellingWeekly]

@@yellowlighthouse3057 unfortunately as far as I know this is only possible with Eduard's new decals, as it's an effect of the printing method they use

[@yellowlighthouse3057]

@@ModellingWeekly Ah alright, thanks for your help though 🙂

[@Juno58]

​@@ModellingWeekly Special Hobby has this new kind of decals too, i.e. included in their 1/72 Bf 109 kit. I didn't like them, i bought an aftermarket decal sheet.

[@creepingdread88]

You can always print your own decals. You just need a laser printer, and of course a pc. I've been doing this for some years. This was mainly down to decals not being the best quality at times, wrong colours, sizes, marking, emitted, not the model I wanted, etc. Like anything, it just takes a little practice. When I first made decals, I only had an inkjet printer, so applying waterslide decals, when you can't get them wet, you can only wet the backing paper was... I don't want to exaggerate, the most difficult task in the history of mankind.

[@burningphoneix]

The funny thing about the "removable" cover film is that Eduard never intended them to be removable in the first place! That's why they're so fiddly! 🤣

[@ModellingWeekly]

It is slightly ironic haha

[@marshmilos]

there should be a method to add more decal film to the existing decals

[@tomroland5467]

Do you think the new Eduard decals give a better result than Cartograf? I'd be more inclined to use them if that was the case. Personally I don't think there's sufficent improvement.

[@ModellingWeekly]

The printing quality isn't as good as cartograf, but I'd prefer them any day over tamiya decals for example

[@alexwilliamson1486]

If ever there was a case of “if it’s not broken don’t fix it” it’s this mad idea to change decals…decades using Eduards own decals, actually they were very good, then they give us this? Seriously who wants to be peeling the film of National markings, after the end of the build and ain’t job perhaps even weathering…I tried them on a BF 109, the carrier film stood proud after a coat of varnish, you CANT leave them or remove film, it ain’t an option, they have to come off, and when I did remove stencilling form the a/c it peeled in different ways…utter disaster. My argument for this, at what point in modelling did you have to remove carrier film? They don’t (despite what others say) behave like HGW, I utterly hate the new decals ….nuff said. Sorry, but it’s so frustrating, Eduards old decals were first class.

[@ModellingWeekly]

Whether you like the new decals or not, they exist, and the technique that I demonstrated in this video is (in my opinion) the best way of dealing with them. I've used it on the past few Eduard builds I've done, and encountered no issues.

[@Ady990-er7gv]

Nice video, but content creators shouldn’t have to be making videos like this in the first place. All Eduard have done is create extra work that I didn’t have to do before, they’ve also increased the risk/likleyhood that I’ll ruin my paint job, all for something that offers no tangible gain or reward (imho). If it’s a cost saving they’re after, I’m skeptical if it’ll pay off, as I personally have come away (not completely) from Eduard kits due to the fact I’m spending additional funds on aftermarket decals. Nothing against trying new things, but not at the expense of my time and wallet.

[@Juno58]

Agree 100%! Special Hobby Bf 109 E kit has the same kind of decals, i didn't like them! Waaayyy to fiddly to remove the foil. In the end i had to buy an aftermarket conventional decal sheet. Todays model kits are quite expensive, more expensive with those new decals and even more expensive for an aftermarket conventional decal sheet! I doubt this is the right way...

[@jaws666]

More hassle than its worth

[@ModellingWeekly]

I mean it's really not that much more work than normal decals...If you're not bothered by the cover film then leaving it on is totally fine and up to you (as mentioned in the video), however taking it off with this technique really isn't much work in the grand scheme of things. Would probably take an extra 2 or 3 hours for the whole model, or less depending on the number of decals

[@jaws666]

@@ModellingWeekly i have heard a lot of people who have had major issues with them ...even doing what you have done

[@ModellingWeekly]

@@jaws666 can't comment on their experiences, but personally I've only had success with this technique :) I'm up for hearing people's experiences with them though, so if you have anyone I could refer to that would be great! Cheers

[@alexwilliamson1486]

It is, trust me…see my previous rant? Really? Who wants to be peeling off any markings at this stage in the build? And they have to come off, after a layer of varnish, you can still see the decal film standing proud? Worst idea I’m decades…they do not behave like HGW, just to clarify?

[@jaws666]

@@alexwilliamson1486 wel l said...i dont know what they were thinking when they came up with this idea

[@Irish_Modeller]

Todays tips are paid for by Eduard who cocked up and need to convince modellers that they are the issue not Eduard...

[@ModellingWeekly]

I haven't received a penny from Eduard for making this video. I'm simply giving my best advice for dealing with these decals