How to Replace & Bleed Clutch Slave Cylinder MINI Cooper 2002-2006

[@dougrippe33]

All I can say is you sir are single handedly keeping so many Minis on the road. As much as it sucks to be back on the KZbins again because something else has failed, we are all super lucky to have these absolutely fantastic DIY tutorials to walk those of us that aren’t mechanics easily through. Not sure if you still post and monitor your page, but just wanted to give a huge thank you.

[@mikewallace3549]

I just installed a new slave cylinder in my 2005 Mini Cooper S because it was "sticky" as I let the clutch out. I figured that the slave cylinder was worn out, so I replaced it. Worked for 3 hours trying to get the air out. Finally gave up and made an appointment at my local Mini Cooper dealer. I really hated to do that, so I Googled this subject and this was the first video to come up. IT WORKED!!! I followed these steps and got the air out. I promptly ran into the house and happily cancelled my appointment. Thank you for a great video!!!

[@ModMINI]

Good to hear. It's not easy to get the air out. People ask even after watching the video and I basically have to tell them to try again.

[@mikew3922]

@@ModMINI Mini Engineers did us a great disservice by designing such a crappy slave cylinder. Clearly they never had to bleed what they designed. Thanks again for the great and informative video.

[@manuelguerrero3089]

It's always good to find videos out there that go straight to the point and skip all the talking of just nonsense. Thanks for the great info on how to replace this part on my car

[@MortonLuvz2drum]

How about this point. The line is corroded just before the slave cylinder. Hoping that I can connect a new piece of line to it.

[@sunshineirrigation]

You're the best! I've lost count how many things I've boldly tried and succeeded with no experience or business trying simply by watching your videos (head gasket, super charger, transmission, clutch, flywheel, fuel filter, sub frame/ control arms/ grommets, drive shaft and a/c squirrel cage motor to name a few). Though I've watched countless videos for my beloved/and occasionally hated R53, I could not have done it without you and your calm and occasionally wry humor. Thank you so much!

[@scottmerry8567]

This video is excellent. Mod MINI, you have the best-edited and most informative videos out there! Well done.

[@scottcook8443]

I'd like to thank you as yesterday me and my son was struggling to bleed his clutch. I watched your video last night and this morning I made the tool and bled great a huge huge thankyou from the UK 🇬🇧

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

person helping me is an automotive student. He is now considering career change. we started this project 8am finished 6pm and it was most definitely slave as once the old got in my hands it just crumbled broken plastic. however saga continues i still need to bleed it it as its still not running. we watched your video on complete clutch replacement once we saw this video we finally found it. thank goodness as we considered turning car on its side. lol

[@ModMINI]

+John Smith Wow, that's an ordeal. This shouldn't take more than an hour once you know how.

[@brandongustafson7497]

When you try and put 2 seals inside the line and cylinder you can fight it all day and it will never go together! Thankyou for saving my day and money!

[@tobym5]

Thanks for the video, I did this very same job a couple of days ago on a 2013 Mini Cooper D, I was initially going to use the method you show but decided to prime the slave cylinder instead. Left the old cylinder attached to the pipe but hanging detached from the gearbox, using a small funnel I poured in fluid to the new cylinder with its piston extended, poured in until it was brimmed with air bubbles rising and out, I also worked the piston back and forth a little (not sure if this helped push any air out), then unscrewed the bleed nipple to let a bit run out there, locked it off, connected the new pipe whilst keeping the slave cylinder vertical, opened the bleed nipple again to allow a gravity fed bleed, locked that off and fitted to car. Clutch works well now with no pedal sticking to the floor, it's also much smoother.

[@emeraldaisle2927]

Thanks a million. Bled mine after watching. Earlier that day bled brakes and struggled with clutch slave cylinder. The only way for me to do the bleed is with a hand vacuum pump as the 2 person method doesn't work here . Jacked-up the front with the driver side jack higher than the passenger side to get a little more slope and reduce the chance of getting air into the clutch slave cylinder line at the master cylinder. I used the pipe strap and screws as you. After 3 tries I got it done. Thanks!

[@nintendiehard]

I"m still not sure if this is my problem or not, but I'm VERY thankful for this video. The most complicated thing I've ever done on a car was change the spark plugs, so I'm not all that much of a car guy. But this makes me think that I can actually handle this job if it comes to it. Thanks for going into such detail with the whole job.

[@jessicaferreira6059]

You are THE GUY!!!! I can't thank you enough for getting me through a few jobs with my mini including my clutch!! Without you it would not have been possible! So thank you. Saying that, I'm wondering if you have a video or if you can do one on adjusting the clutch? I can't find one that will walk me through it like your videos Do. Thank you in advanced!

[@ModMINI]

There is nothing that can be adjusted on the clutch. If not engaging as expected, it might need the hydraulics bled. If that doesn't work, you have something going on inside the bell housing (broken throwout bearing, bent/broken pressure plate spring, broken release fork, failed clutch disk, etc.)

[@jessicaferreira6059]

That would all make sense but I replaced my clutch a year ago (throw out bearing was completely disintegrated). Every time I go through a gear change if I'm on the accelerator too much it will rev high. But if I let it go for a couple seconds, at most, it will rev normal again, regardless of how much I'm on the accelerator. Any ideas with these symptoms?

[@ModMINI]

That will happen sometimes if you execute a poor shift. Use the clutch just long enough to match engine and axle speeds and then get off it. Never rev above 2500 rpm or so with clutch pedal engaged. Don't get on the accelerator until clutch is fully released.

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

Its all good even though i did not get my Cooper going again yet and we spent all this time on it with all this info you post and posted I certain I will. I just don't know anything about cars but thanks to good honest people like yourself I'm learning fast. My mechanic student friend after working on this isn't sure repairing cars is for him. He's in his first semester of school but in 4 years he will be a pro, that and I'll always have a mechanic I can count on. So I'll keep encouraging him lol. oh my to disassemble once again and get the thing bleed lol. Should cut the time down considerably 2nd time around lol

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

you rock..... changed out my clutch about 15k and about a week ago I started noticing some shim while going into first. Not a lot but noticeable. Driving once I got going not an issue. I was on a main road and pushed in the clutch a few times just out of worry and boom went right down to the floor. Clutch went first time car would not start, period. Now it starts but cant change gears. So I had it towed and noticed some fluid leaking. Anyway long story the spring under the clutch pedal came out and after your discription with the trouble getting into first I'm 100% sure its the slave line that burst while pumping clutch. I dont work on cars but I'm going to do this today, you made this look easy... I started changing out my own pads, well why not this as well... I have nothing to lose the car is just sitting there, you rock

[@ModMINI]

+John Smith There is no spring under the clutch pedal, or at least not one strong enough to return the pedal to the normal position. All the spring force is coming from the pressure plate through the hydraulics. If there is wetness on the slave cylinder, that is most likely your problem, unless the clutch assembly is damaged and not allowing normal travel, and pressing hard on the clutch pedal caused the fluid to leak around the slave cylinder seal. You may need to repeat several times to get all the air out...

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

+Mod MINI ok I'm getting under the car tomorrow. I was driving and again the car shuddered in 1st sounds very much like you described. There is a spring that I have in my hand but it's great to know that this really does nothing for me as I thought that the spring had something to do with the position, now after reading its the hydraulics that does the job... I don't know this seems fairly cut n dry I mean aside from the fluids right? Every time I bring this car in for service people see $$ signs, $1000 no matter what the issue, brakes $500, fuel pump $800, and on and on... The Clutch replacement cost $1500, this however if I can do it myself for $80 I'm going to listen to you here and get this beast going. This was such a big help. I don't know what I'm doing but I'll never learn unless I do it... and wow your rock thank you for the response If I can drive this tomorrow you have no Idea of what you did by posting this. You help people, that's big... Bigger than you or I no doubt

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

+John Smith If you could the plastic pump bleeding bottle, where can I get this and what is it called no one I called seems to have know what this is? Do I have to pre-order this and or is there another option for me? I'm so great full for all this I have so many medical appointments. Two back surgeries, epilepsy, and many others that depend on the greatest car ever made. I need to start learning how to fix my car and I am... Replacing the windshield tomorrow and going to get this done Saturday... Thank you and let me know where I can send you a check!!

[@ModMINI]

+John Smith All the purchase links are in the video description. You can buy online. If you want to support my channel, which is very appreciated, there is a "support Mod Mini" button at the top right of the video.

[@cobralsc2361]

You have the best videos! Great info, key video shots, excellent explanations, and the content is always what I'm looking for as a MINI Cooper owner. Thank you so much!

[@jakeconstable1938]

Mine has been leaking and today the clutch felt extremely light, all of a sudden i couldn't get it into 1st, what a great video, I wonder how my mechanic will react when I suggest he watches a youtube video on how to bleed it right, lol! thanks !

[@ModMINI]

***** Definitely have him watch it, he'll waste time otherwise and charge you the labor.

[@chrisflorian4308]

Thank you very much for this video. It helps me a lot. The clutch on my tuned MINI R53 doesn't work any more. Under my car I have seen, that this safe cylinder is bleeding. Brake fluid is droping out. Now I have all the things to replace this safe cylinder. In a few hours I start with this work. I hope the clutch works with the new safe cylinder :) Greetings from Germany

[@RichJohnstun]

Huge thank you. I just did mine today on my '06 R53. I'm not sure it was my issue yet or not, but your video made it easy to swap the part. I've had some notchyness going into 3rd and swapped the slave cylinder in hopes of fixing my issue. I've got a set of shift cables ready to go in as my next attempt if this didn't fix the issue (it's not always notchy, just sometimes.). Regardless, you're vid gave me the courage to bang this one out in an hour on a Sunday afternoon. Thanks again!

[@chappledesign]

+Rich Johnstun Did replacing the slave fix your notchiness? also, did you have to do the cables too?

[@RichJohnstun]

Replacing the slave didn't fix it, but I replaced my trans fluid with the Redline that ModMini recommended in his clutch change vid and it make a huge difference. There is a tiny bit of notchiness when it's cold, but it quickly goes away. I still haven't replaced the cables and as of right now, don't intend too based on the results of the fluid change.

[@golfernst]

This cylinder only fits Minis to production date: UP TO 7TH MONTH OF 2004. After this date a different cylinder is used! The newer slave cylinder has the bleeder valve coming straight out of the end of cylinder, not on top of cyl. Another tip, pressurise the system to 15 PSI and watch the pressure to see if it drops (leak). This should also show where leak is, if any. Now you can bleed system as per Mod Mini, which is a great video.

[@chernova1317]

Blew my seals up whilst tryna lauch it from a standstill; amateur af i know. thanks for the video i couldn't bleed it properly before and this helped alot

[@weaponizecarrysystemsg2220]

I did mine today. thanks to you. Your videos are awesome. keep up the good work and keep those videos coming.

[@LurgsHowToGuides]

Great Video, really useful. We have a Mini 2003 & the gearknob has started to rattle a bit. Hoping it's not the Gearbox so 1st of all I will check the condition of the Clutch Master Cylinder to see if there is a leak. Thanks.

[@l33lvr]

Hi, Do you have any videos on how to replace a clutch master cylinder on a 2002 Mini Cooper (Non-S)?

[@Poanoofd]

you sir just helped me out bit time! i wasted couple of hours trying and failing... did it your way and worked like a charm. you tha man! i owe you!

[@xzox]

Usual excellent calmly explained video from mod mini. I see that there are currently 70 viewers who have their thumbs on the opposite side of their hands to everybody else.

[@JodBronson]

It's repairable I see... Stretch that spring out a bit and replace the O'Ring. THANK YOU for the bonus footage.

[@bryan8638]

Thanks for the video , very good camera angles makes this easy to understand. You should invest in some nitrile gloves though, what a messy job!

[@ModMINI]

Nitrile just tears.

[@ferdzagudelo6927]

Hey there! Two weeks ago my clutch pedal fall to the floor. Watched this, your very informative and easy to follow instructions. Soon I got the parts and tools. tackled the job. followed every single step. after the first 3 attempts of bleeding and putting it back = no pedal tension.. all over again.. this time I'm able to shift into gear. drove the car although I noticed the shifting is not smooth. needed a second press to get in gear sometimes.. any thoughts? thanks

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

ok it should move about an inch, that helps... I'm thinking I have to move the control arm to engage the piston or something... When I had it bled it was only moving the whole part but piston was not going in and out... ok this helps as I thought this was the case but helps to have your verification ... these instructions you gave are awesome.. Ill over the pressure bleeder for sure... The traveling mechanics I offered them $50 to bleed all the parts are removed all the work is done just a bleed so they didn't show based on money and one says he had to look at it... When I hear this all I hear is $$$ $50 done I'm driving... No more leaks at all now that the part is in but I'll have to go through the entire process again, I'm becomnig a pro... You know I'm going to get this done.. I can do this...Thank you again I do not think I have any other questions but yes the pressure bleeder makes the most sense to me.. I love this dam car

[@ModMINI]

+John Smith You don't need to do anything with release fork. Just keep the thing fully compressed, angled as far upward as you can, and pressure bleed, knock on the cylinder like I did in the video. Time consuming because you have to remove it from the jig and reinstall to test each time; it might take 2-3 tries but you'll get the air out.

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

We will get it....i have to...thank you.... Ill order the pressure bleeder 3rd of the month...should hum after that lol

[@leomtz6820]

Great video! But How do you know if the master cylinder should be replaced?

[@ModMINI]

If you correctly bleed or replace the slave cylinder and still don't get the expected release fork movement.

[@bodthemod69]

Hi thanks for the great videos really helped me out. I have a quick question about this one, if I don't have a power bleeder but I do have a helpful uncle to push down on the clutch pedal. Is it ok to bleed the clutch in the traditional way while its clamped down ? thanks

[@jovitmaca]

Very awesome video. Basically followed the same steps to do my slave cylinder on my 2003 Jetta. Works like a charm. Appreciate the info.

[@markthegrea]

So I followed all the instructions and got it to work. thanks! However, the pipe leaks. I have a little rubber gasket that fits on the end of the pipe. It comes off and I have to dig it out and put it back on. It is not an o-ring, but a 2mm "tip". Is that all I need or is there another o-ring?

[@bluedunn374]

Just did this myself. For RHD cars you really need a power bleeder and fill it with brake fluid, because the clutch line is high in the reservoir air will creep into it, so best to have that fluid being pumped in. Also just use a tie down strap to compress the plunger, worked well for me.

[@ModMINI]

A power bleeder is always required. Be careful to avoid over-compressing the cylinder; it can damage the seal

[@MortonLuvz2drum]

@@ModMINI Any hints or tips on if you need to replace that line going to the slave? Mine has sprung a leak right there at the connection. Do they NOT give you a new O ring? As usual I am preparing for the worst, hoping for the best, and expecting it to be rather simple. The line just disappears up into engine land. I ordered a new section of line. But not sure just how for it goes, how to get to it, and where it connects. It looks like they sell three sections of it. So, I ordered the lowest section. Crossing fingers. OEM from Mini Mania.

[@ModMINI]

@@MortonLuvz2drum It connects to the master cylinder behind the clutch pedal under the dash. There may be another break point under the airbox. Check realoem.com for schematic and part number. If you search R53 used clutch slave cylinder on ebay, you might get lucky and find one where they left the line attached but cut off and you can harvest the seal.

[@MortonLuvz2drum]

@@ModMINI Thanks. I was looking at a diagram on minimania that showed three separate lines which apparently connect together. If following that line becomes a problem, I am prepared to cut what I need off of the new one and use that, but I'd just as soon not. 04 Cooper S Thanks for the reply. You are a Mini legend. I'm thinking it's front end service mode again? I should replace bushings this time while I'm down there. 234,372 miles!

[@MortonLuvz2drum]

@@ModMINI Got slave and lower tube off. How far should the release fork travel on the outside? I'm surprised just how little it moves. Like, barely a couple of millimeters. Still waiting on parts from minimania.

[@ReaLitaliano]

What’s the process to do the master? Do I have to bleed the slave cylinder again?

[@johnhafner1048]

Hey minimod, I did just as you explained in the video to replace the slave cylinder, which is great by the way, but the clutch pedal is still on the floor. When I start the vehicle, it has a high pitch whine like metal on metal scraping. I can't even get the vehicle into gear to take it in to get it looked at. Any thoughts on what it could be or things to check? It's bled properly, no leaks or anything like that.

[@ModMINI]

Sounds like you may have damage inside the bell housing.

[@DPain82]

Dear lord, please don't let the damage in the bell housing be my issue.

[@markd920]

Haven't replaced yet but fuck I think I have the same problem. Any updates on your bell housing?

[@ramontinoco3411]

Throughout bearing

[@TheTexasOiler]

Thanks Bud i have a porsche and this helped better visuals and your explaination is way better...

[@silachaker939]

why was this zykudner exchanged? what were the symptoms?

[@SpeedStar76]

What an excellent video, thank you. At the beginning I was like, nope that's beyond me, but I think I can do this

[@anthonyblake8881]

I bought an 02 mini S for my son. Hard to get into first and third. Had a mechanic look at it. He says clutch is fine, not sure what the problem is. Found part on ebay for $30, doing it ourselves. Thanks

[@beagletube]

Another great video. I'll be doing mine shortly and this gives me the confidence to do the job on my own

[@reubenmiller7988]

Very good narration and explanation!

[@Squirrel-Chaser]

Wonder if you could help me. I had to replace my booster, master cylinder, and slave cylinder on my 03 mini that had been sitting for a few years. I bled the braking system, then proceeded to replace the slave clutch and bleed with a power bleeder. Now the clutch pedal is super soft and only pushes the slave a tiny bit, after fully depressing the clutch. Nowhere near enough to even start the car. What did I do wrong?

[@ModMINI]

Still air in there. Bleed again. Worst case, raise the slave above the master to ensure bubbles go up and out. (Bend hard line slightly if necessary)

[@joe5409]

Great video, just had someone change the slave clutch for me and now am not able to put into gear at all. He said "looks like the clutch was ready to go out" ( I don't think so). I'm going to redo the job myself. Can you tell me what the o-ring size is, I think he probably didn't remove from the old part. Thanks!

[@ModMINI]

They can be very hard to bleed and usually require multiple tries. Worst case you may need to raise up above height of the reservoir, which could require some disassembly including possibly sliding the modular front end forward. The o ring is there. If it wasn't, all the fluid would have already leaked out.

[@Nxaall]

Would it make a different if my car was only jacked up on one side? I only have two axle stands and can’t jack it up without the back end lifting off the floor? (Question meant for the bleeding stage)

[@justin_3027]

Hey Modmini, just a quick question! I did a clutch replacement on my 06 R53 from stock to a solid valeo kit. While watching this video to bleed my new slave cylinder, I noticed that the arm for the clutch fork was compressing the slave cylinder pretty far, almost fully. I put a valeo clutch kit in mine and I noticed that the slave cylinder is only compressed about halfway. I can feel the spring return when I let off the pedal, so I do believe it’s installed correctly. I guess my question is: does the valeo pressure plate have less travel than the stock? I’m scared I’ll have to drop the whole subframe and transmission again if I installed it incorrectly, thanks!

[@tassospel229]

hello i know im a little late haha, i followed this procedure perfectly as u shown and my clutch is dragging, and i can not engage gear while the car is on, I'm going to try and bleed it again soon but i was hoping you might have some insight to share

[@egjr2722]

Perfectly executed, and exactly what I needed!

[@stevenkingston953]

Great thanks again mod mini. Let the project commence

[@PaulGurhy]

cheers for this video, just gave me a good idea how to bleed my clutch that has no bleed nipple and bought my self a cheep kit like yours but use the air from the tyres :)

[@ModMINI]

Careful using that method as the pressure will be a lot higher.

[@PaulGurhy]

I noticed, lol brake fluid went every where but it worked after a few attempts, put a spare tyre on the engine so I could better control the pressure in the end by tapping the end on to the tyre valve

[@type670]

No problems shifting gears but when I accelerate sometimes under heavy load the engine revs go up but the car does not go any faster. Does this sound like a worn clutch or otherwise? Thanks

[@mikeg0810]

Hi Mod Mini Love your vids. Helped me no end in fixing my 03 MCS. Do you by any chance have a video on how to replace the Brake Servo/Booster ? I have hissing coming from the brake pedal when not pressed. I believe a seal has gone in the booster.

[@danielpgray7216]

Mod mini currently replacing clutch in 2004 Mini Cooper S. Switching to valeo clutch kit. I have a local mini mechanic performing the work. Any suggestions of what I should do while apart?

[@ModMINI]

Rear main seal, crank sensor seal, supercharger inlet gasket.

[@pitstop.pen10]

Pressure bled system after replacing slave and master cylinders. Still no joy after several attempts. left car overnight jacked up on slave side with piece of wood wedged between seat and pedal to hold it firmly to the floor. This morning its perfect. Car had none of the usual signs of failing clutch but garage said yep deffo clutch. Its so easy to get ripped off.

[@ModMINI]

Penny Anderson Sounds like you had air in the master. ...I hate garages.

[@DavidDonaldson-o5g]

Ok, so I pressed the clutch pedal, and it went to the floor and left a puddle under my 2002 Mini S. I watched your video and knew I could do this, as this has been a five-year project from a wrecked Mini that I have slowly been tinkering with. Anyway got the slave cylinder and climbed under the car, and it revealed a corroded line where it clips into the cylinder; ugh. Could not find a video on how to replace the line, so I had to wing it. That took 2 hours to figure out as you have to disassemble the airbox and throttle body and are left with the "octopus" harness directly above clip I, where two lines meet. Would really like to submit a video on how to do it to help others, but you are much better and have the know-how to address this to others via video. Would you please do a clutch line replacement? Also, this completely drains out all fluid in the clutch hydraulic line via gravity (even from the cab so it took quite a lot of bleeding, even with the pressurized bleeder. Cheers, and keep up the good work.

[@pekkahallikainen2607]

clearly the best video detailed and how to explain everything in detail. i will do same job on a citroën c4 and it should be the same.

[@LadyOya-dc]

You said in another video not to mix old with new fluid. Should I drain my system before refilling the brake fluid.

[@suxtaposition]

I got a new clutch slave cylinder and it leaks at the connection of the hydraulic line. How do I fix it?

[@rumchata6569]

Can you do this by pumping the clutch pedal to bleaed

[@allovruracing9404]

Very nice job! START TO FINISH! 👍🏼👍🏼+👍🏼

[@rammyfernando]

Can you please show us a master pump replacement and inner operation thanks

[@bencrosbie]

Thats a very handy spot for the slave cylinder easy access. Cheers for the good video

[@yulmerced4434]

wait so i just replace the clutch, bearing and sleeve and ive tried 3 different slave cyl and they all leak from the boot after doing this what am i doing wrong?

[@harveymorgan4003]

I’ve got the same issue... not sure what I’m doing wrong

[@ModMINI]

Don't over compress the cylinder.

[@johnramos5539]

Hey MiniMod. I just change the clutch on my R50 with no problems but now it has to be forced into gear. This wasn't a problem before the repairs and the slave cylinder has no leaks. I did bleed the slave but before I buy a new one do you think I should bleed it again?

[@ModMINI]

It can sometimes take 3-4 times to get it bled properly.

[@HarielA44]

Got a 2005 mini cooper s. Driving the other day and lost the ability to get the clutch to disengage. I can press the pedal and it will partially disengage the clutch. I 3xposed the master and slave. Bled the fluid to see if maybe air was in the line. All this did was push all fluid out of the system. It stopped drawing in fluid from the reservoir. So I got a master and slave cylinder each. I took out the master and I found a small rubber nipple in the fluid I caught. I think it came out of the 90 degree fitting but I'm not sure how it goes back in. Any advice?

[@ModMINI]

it goes on the tube.

[@HarielA44]

@@ModMINI I managed to figure that out after sleeping g on it. Tho I ended up having a shop replace the bent clutch fork and do a clutch replacement.

[@Christopher-kj9us]

Hi bro my mini is not going to any gear wht do u think maybe be thanks for the video

[@zane_lax1210]

How much play should there be in my clutch fork leaver I have a 2006 engine with 2003 trans

[@giannimini3293]

hello thank you for this video I have a mini jcw 2009 engine n14 do you think this method works on this mini model? the clutch slave cylinder seems different from the model r53 thank you for your future answer

[@ModMINI]

It should work and be probably easier on gen 2 due to better bleed valve design

[@giannimini3293]

@@ModMINI yes it was easier the method is the same thank you for your reply

[@IamMagPie]

As I wrote in another comment, I have changed brakepipes, hoses, calipers, pads, rotors and brake fluid in my belowed R53. Thank you to MOD MINI for your advise. You were right. Everything OK now. Another question from me: some recommend changing the fluid every 2-3 years. Is tthis a good interval, or should I get a glykol tester to check if I can postphone my next flush even longer? Should I also flush the clutch slave cylinder now to change the fluid in ths pipe?

[@ModMINI]

IamMagPie 2-3 years is a decent interval for brake fluid. Clutch system doesn't get nearly as hot and is made out of plastic. I don't think it is as important to bleed/flush the clutch hydraulics.

[@IamMagPie]

***** Thank you. Sounds right - if it is plastic, it can't corrode.

[@GarthGoldberg]

Excellent, well-edited video. I know how to do this job now. Thanks.

[@johnjankura2604]

Hi Mod Mini. What would you do different for preventative maintenance bleeding with a pressure bleeder? Not changing out the slave cylinder for a new unit. Thanks

[@ModMINI]

I don't understand the question.

[@johnjankura2604]

Sorry if my slave cylinder doesn’t need replacement and I just want to bleed the old fluid in the line should I just put the pressure bleeder on the reservoir and open valve till clean fluid comes out? Some other cars just opening the bleeder and gravity will clear it or pumping pedal like you would bleed the brakes if you have a second person. My slave cylinder is ok not leaking. Thanks

[@hunke327]

Awesome video! It is really helpful. My issue is that after replacing the slave the piston/rod seems to warp or bend. Gone through two now. It will drive/shift great for about 15! Minutes then back to not shifting after removing the slave cylinder for inspection the rod/piston is bent. Happened twice. Not sure what to do about this. Any idea?

[@ModMINI]

Josh Hunke must be damage inside the bell housing.

[@hunke327]

Turns out it was bad parts. I used Duralast parts from AutoZone and they kept bending. Got an OEM slave from Mini and it works like a champ! thanks again!

[@ramontinoco3411]

Mod mini I havent herd from you for a while? So I had bought a 2006 automatic mini cooper R50 and the first week that I bought the car it wont shift into gear now can you help me out? Thanks

[@JacobWorthington-ej6cz]

Will a bad slave cylinder on a r53 cause clutch to slip

[@justineverely9961]

2009 Mini Cooper 100,000 miles, manual transmission. With the engine running, when the clutch is released, it sits like it is in neutral. Does not even try to move. With the engine running I can run through the gears without the clutch and I hear no grinding. The shifter feels normal, not tight, not sloppy. Any ideas?? Please help.

[@Ryanfreakinhaugh]

Hey Kurt, if I need to do this and a brake bleed as well what do you recommend I do first? Brakes then slave cyl or vice versa?

[@ModMINI]

Ryan Haugh Doesn't really matter.

[@JodBronson]

This guy is awesome and VERY SMART MAN !!!

[@underourrock]

To reduce the amount of air in the slave cylinder, can the new part be filled on the work bench? Would still plan on bleeding it, but would love to reduce the air at the start if possible.

[@ModMINI]

Might help a little but you really have to bleed after installing.

[@underourrock]

@@ModMINI I gave it a try and I was able to get out a little more air. I think it helped minimize the residual bubbles I was dealing with. I'll add a little detail on what I did in case it helps in the future I pumped the pedal 50 times and at around 50 it finally sunk to the floor. I bled it some more, got those little air bubbles out, and when I manually pulled the pedal back up, there were no more bubbles after that on any additional bleeding I did. I pumped it 50 more times and it has been good ever since. Unfortunately my clutch is still bad. What I hoped was a weak slave cylinder was in fact a bad clutch. The clutch was replaced recently by a shop that is out of business, so pretty sure I'll find something nasty they left behind when I get to that point. Your replies today have been immensely helpful!

[@hasaelmonty7531]

I been willing to ask you. I want to do a cat cam on mi mini. What brand or from where should I buy the timing set gears and chain and tensioner thanks

[@maybeme1180]

Thank you for the video. Forgive my ignorance but should I be pressure bleeding with the clutch pedal down or up? I've bled it multiple times (or so I think) with the pedal up and my clutch pedal still goes straight to the floor with no pressure. I've also replaced the clutch master cylinder with no improvement. any thoughts on what I'm missing?

[@ModMINI]

Should not matter. You may need to remove front end, raise slave cylinder above reservoir level and pressure bleed.

[@maybeme1180]

@@ModMINI ok, i'll try that. thank you

[@pitstop.pen10]

Your a star. Thanks for the video.

[@NS10011]

I got inspired to buy a mini because of your videos. I have no other way to contact you. so here it goes. I purchased a 2011 MCS, but looking to get a 03-06 for track use. I know you made a video on what to look for when buying a mini r53, but is it possible for you to make a video on major common problems r53 have and at about what mileage the problems developed. I mean problems like the power steering going suspension/engine problems (was think of an r56 07+, but this car are lemons from factory).

[@ModMINI]

+TurboKDM That video is essentially a video for what kind of common problems the cars have. I don't have a lot of time for videos these days. In a nutshell, oil leaks start very early with crank position sensor o-ring from before 40k miles in some cases. Just fix it, not a big deal. Power steering pump can go at any time. Control arm bushings wear by around 80K. Most everything else happens above 100K miles.

[@PrinceSomorin]

Could you also just replace the bad seal? I'm from the old school of many classic Minis and Mokes owned and used to rebuilding stuff.

[@ModMINI]

+OsiTech O I don't think anyone sells just the seal.

[@thierrygarnier5062]

Hello I changed my clutch slave cylinder by a new one but I have a small leak now where is located the small o ring . I put the old one like you show in the video . The slave cylinder should not come with a new one normally ? So I think I have to buy a new o ring . Is it a special o ring for break liquid ? Thanks

[@ModMINI]

O ring is not included with slave cylinder - it is included with the line. You might need to buy the line to get a new o-ring. I am not sure what size the ring is or what kind of material is it. You can look up the part number at realoem.com

[@thierrygarnier5062]

+Mod MINI ok thanks I will look

[@onuralpciftci4208]

Firslty ,Thanks for this video.I also have a2002 r50 cooper it is really hard to get reverse gear and also sometimes, first gear.Furthermore , the biting point is quite high and actually bites in the 1/4 of the clutch motion range.So ,I was just wondering that damaged clutch slave cylinder can cause high biting point. Thank You...

[@ModMINI]

Damaged slave usually caused difficulty getting into 1st and R and clutch engages almost immediately. If your slave is not leaking, you probably have worn or damaged clutch. On the R50, I see lots of throwout bearing failures.

[@pfitzy86]

hey there,just curious,i installed one the other day and u the way u only have certain amount of play before fluid gets past the new seal on the piston when installing,well this happened to me on the new slave,fluid leaked into the rubber booth. is this seal wrecked now or can i take the slave apart,dry everything off and start over,its a new slave like and if this happens so easy i dont fancy buying a new one everytime

[@ModMINI]

Some leaking is normal the piston went sideways. If it still leaks when returning straight, it may be damaged but if you are good with tools you might be able to take it apart and repair it.

[@pfitzy86]

Thanks for getting back,that's good to hear,just a lot of people have said once oil comes out when it's at the angle that it's no good anymore,and it's a new slave I'm putting in. I was thinking the seal couldn't be gone for good after a little seapage on installation especially when no damage to it

[@pauld7379]

Thanks so much for your help! I've now got my Mini with a real Mini/BMW shop and not the thieving dealership!

[@BagelSchlagel]

I have yet to see a video or thread but this looks like the same one that is INSIDE my R53 under the clutch pedal and it is leaking and wet any suggestions or info on this.

[@ModMINI]

There is a metal clip connecting to the clutch pedal, and a fluid supply/ fluid pressure line. There is also a clutch engagement switch. Remove all those and replace part. It shouldn't require bleeding, I think. Pump a few times and air bubbles will work out.

[@christopherwestling1933]

Hello Mod Mini I have a question i recently purchased a 2003 MCS after a week of driving the clutch will not release at all and i can not get into gear. I checked the master and slave cylinder no leaks are present at either one and the pedal is not on the floor but def doesnt have as much resistance. The Slave cylinder rod is extending when clutch is depressed i had some rattling noises before that would go away when clutch was depressed. Is it safe to say its time to pull the trans and see whats going on in there?

[@ModMINI]

I'd guess throwout bearing has exploded.

[@thomastrotta7859]

Hey Mod MINI, I did a coolant flush a month ago and I changed my crank sensor o-ring a few weeks ago on my 2005 MINI Cooper S. Now I am getting a coolant leak in the front, middle section of the engine block.I checked the lower hose and It's tight and not leaking from there. Where do you think the leak is coming from? I hope it's not from the water pump, but my car is not over heating. It just leaks after I shut off my car.

[@ModMINI]

+Thomas Trotta That's probably not caused by your clutch slave cylinder. Coolant leaks on front side of engine are caused usually by the water pump to block inlet seal. It could be the water pump itself but they rarely leak. A leaking water pump does not automatically cause overheating. Overheating is caused by things such as low coolant, air pockets, clogged radiator, or broken/missing water pump impeller blades.

[@thomastrotta7859]

Thank you, and I know it's not the slave cylinder, I just happened to be on this video. I'll just watch the leak for now, if it gets worst an I know it's from the water pump I'll just replace it.

[@chappledesign]

Great vid. I just repaired my 02 mini head while watching your head replacement video. It works! Problem now is we have a 5 speed trans issue with trouble going into gear and getting worse. When doing the head job I noticed the white plastic master cyl had a cracking sound like an old crusty deteriorating milk bottle. Could this have caused the system to loose pressure in that slave? The clutch "feels" fine as normal. No "to the floor" action and the clutch was replaced 9M miles ago. Does a faulty slave cyl = pedal to the floor?

[@ModMINI]

+chappledesign Slave, master cylinder, bent/cracked release fork or broken throwout bearing or pressure plate.

[@chappledesign]

+Mod MINI A buddy just drove it who is a master at clutchless shifting. Same issues occur without clutch use. I assume something internal like a bearing sticking or?? Might a throw out bearing cause this double clutching fiasco where you have to drop it in neutral in between gears... Just seems hard to push into gears. Maybe the clutch plate is binding? or input/output shaft bearings are gone. Thanks for responding! Your vids are changing peoples lives! really!

[@ModMINI]

+chappledesign If it's hard to shift even with clutchless driving and flywheel/input shaft speeds are in sync, sounds like transmission damage. The 5 speed or not as durable as the 6; I recently replaced one for someone on an R50 with about 140K. (It was making noises that sounded like bad axles)

[@warwickdean]

I would like to rebleed my peddle for a piece of mind, do i just simply compress the piston all of the way in first, then loosen the bleed nipple and get someone to press the clutch pedal slowly? Then tighten as the fluid flow stops, then release pedal? Thanks again buddy

[@ModMINI]

+Warwick Dean That should work, although you should probably put some grease around the bleed nipple and attach a long clear tight fitting tube to ensure no air works its way in. It's very easy to make things worse...

[@minigarage5621]

Quick question, just went to do this job on my R53 this week and after pressurizing the system (I made it to about 11-12 on the power bleeder and it blew a crack into the back side of the master reservoir. I didn't think it was that much pressure as you have 15 on yours in the video. Was that just due to the reservoirs age/wear perhaps? I have a parts car so no biggie, but I don't want to blow another one.

[@ModMINI]

saw this once before on a car parked out in the sun its whole life.

[@emissarii2164]

extremely helpful thanks!!!

[@scottdean6702]

This job has killed my back working on it for three days and removing about seven times. I just bought a metric o- ring kit, but I don't know the size o - ring to use.

[@alexjohnston1873]

Doubt you will see this comment but I have a suspected clutch slave cylinder failure on my 2003 mini one but I can’t get it on jack stands yet to properly have a look, but from just looking under and removing the cover I can’t see it. I have a right hand drive mini as I live in the uk and the reservoir is on the other side so I’m wondering if you know if there is a different location for the cylinder cheers

[@ModMINI]

The slave cylinder is always on the left side of the car. I think on 2003 it is under the battery box & airbox.

[@alexjohnston1873]

Mod MINI cheers for the reply. You where right it’s under the battery box, found it when I started digging in myself and then realised I could have found it sooner if I just watched your gearbox replacement video as it was with the same gearbox, cheers for the awesome videos they have really helped me out 😊

[@hasaelmonty7531]

Awesome video very informative doing my clutch slave thank you so much

[@anthonycabrera1692]

Do you think I should buy a 2003 Mini Cooper as my first car ? Or what suggestion do you have?

[@ModMINI]

Anthony Cabrera I don't know anything about you, your financial situation, or appetite for vehicle reliability/breakdown to be able to answer that. However, the first generation MINI Cooper is an excellent car with very high owner satisfaction. the 2002-2003 are not as reliable as 2004-2006, but probably still more reliable than the 2007-2010 model years. It's a 12 year old car, so things will break. Don't spend all the money on the car. Be sure to save enough for regular maintenance and unplanned repairs. Other cars? Again, I don't know anything about you, but some fun small cars include VW GTI, Subaru Impreza STI, Mazda Miata, Honda CR-X, etc.

[@kallasstarburner4295]

Great Vid. Does this apply to 2008 S models?

[@ModMINI]

+Kallas Starburner Directly - no. Indirectly - probably.

[@Supraman007]

what am i doing wrong with the power bleeder, i bought the same one you are using and it won't stop leaking at the stupid cap

[@KUTZFRECH]

I have to thank you again for your super informative videos you make it very easy for someone to tackle their mini.. However today i dropped my car off at the Mini dealer ship for them to warranty my power steering pump when i came back to pick it up it was very hard to get it into first gear i had to press the pedal all the way down to the floor and force it in as i was driving and came to my forst stop i noticed the car was slighltly rolling it worried me so i got onto the highway to get home as quick as i could as i was exiting i go to hit the brakes to come to a stop and my brake pedal went straight to the floor pumped it got a tiny bit of pressure and creeped to a stop.. that was fun.. but anyways i understand the clutch and brake system are tied together is it possible its my slave cylinder thats also affecting my braking? and also if it is what process to i go through to bleed. now if it is the slave do i bleed the slave first then all the calipers? again thank you so much for being extremley informative im learning about minis ive owned mine about a week now and running into a slew of issues but you have helped me tackle 7 out of 10 lol thank you.. bu the way i have a 2002 non s and it will be getting its tranny rebuilt 2nd grinds 3rd is non existent and reverse grinds also the tranny was grinding and all that mess before i brought it to the dealer but did not have these brake and clutch engagement issues

[@ModMINI]

+KUTZFRECH Wow, that's a big chunk of unparagraphed text. I think you are asking if clutch and brake systems are connected. Other than sharing the same reservoir, no. You bleed them independently of each other.