Molding Boat Hatch Covers!! [[Carolina Skiff Rebuild Part 7]]

I have always wanted to figure out how to mold fiberglass hatch covers. I guess now is as good a time as ever. I plan to incorporate multiple hatches into the front deck as well as the raised console and leaning post. My main objective by using solid fiberglass covers is weight savings. I hope to make them out of solid glass and gelcoat them at the same time. I hope if I get my molds right it will also save time. These hatches will hopefully be strong enough to withstand the abuse they will receive.
Molding hatches is completely new to me. I have been doing research for a long time. Just maybe this will turn out like I plan. I do not believe it will be difficult. The hardest and most labor intensive part is going to be building the molds. They will have to be sanded smooth with 800 grit sandpaper. From what I understand a good finish on the mold makes your parts have a good finish. Unfortunately finish work is my least favorite thing to do, but the most important.
One thing I have no idea about is thickness versus strength. For my side hatches I don't believe they will have to be super strong. The front deck hatches are a different story. I am a big guy and they are going to have to be able to support a lot of weight. At 16x24 there could be the chance of two people standing on one at the same time. I plan to test the first one out with two layers of 17 oz. biaxial. As well as two layers of thick chop strand. If this does not do the trick I may have to add a layer of marine grade plywood in the center.
For the leaning post I will only need one seat cover. Therefor I will not be spending the time to make a fiberglass gelcoat mold. I am going to try and make a one time use mold. Instead of using fiberglass and gelcoat. My plan is to just tape the mold. Resin already does not stick to plastic. With the addition of wax and PVA it should release easily. The down side will be the finish. It will have seams and imperfections, but I don't care. The hatch will be covered with an upholstery seat. The only thing that will be seen are the edges.
This video is defiantly not a how to. Possibly by the end it may even be a how not to. I hope someone can use this information to help them make there own hatches. Even if it is a completely different way than I did. For myself It is helpful just to see some one do it. I take away a lot from just seeing it done and putting my own spin on it. Thank you for taking the time to read and watch. Please subscribe!

[@TheBubagrunt]

Hey buddy you’re trying and you’re learning new skills. I get you. Entertainment always has a cost. I’m sure you enjoyed the experience and these skills will be in your tool bag for the future. God’s blessings, love your neighbor. Getting started is always the hardest part.

[@FishHuntCookTinker]

Thank you for the encouraging words. I appreciate you commenting and watching!

[@Beachnative42]

A cheap way of making a mold is using plywood then using auto primer sprayed on the wood. use a couple of layers, then mold release, then spray with PVA, then build it. I've made go cart bodies that way and had minimal refinishing

[@FishHuntCookTinker]

I have never thought of that, but I like it. Next time I need to make a mold I may just do that. Thank you for the tips and thanks for watching!

[@bluerhinoconstruction205]

You are the man

[@FishHuntCookTinker]

I try. Thanks for watching!

[@techtech3977]

dude you gotta post more videos! about to start on mine, want to see how you foamed and glassed the floor. thanks for sharing!

[@FishHuntCookTinker]

They are coming. I have been all over the place and I am so far behind on editing. Between work, the boat, and everything else I just haven’t had much time. I have finished up a few things so I should be able to spend more time editing. Sorry for the delay. Thank you for watching and keep a eye out for the next video soon!

[@MegaThunthun]

Hey nice channel, I have a 17dlx Carolina skiff. And was wondering how much would a transom replacement cost? Thanks!!

[@FishHuntCookTinker]

To have some one do it for you I don’t really know. DIY I can tell you roughly what I have in mine. 2 gallons of epoxy, around 12 yards of 1700 biaxial 30” wide, and a sheet of marine plywood. Epoxy is $186 for 3 gallons from Boatbuilder Central. 15 yards of 1700 biaxial is $37.50 from fiberglasssite.com. They have a 10 yard minimum, but you could use the excess to tab things in. I had my plywood, but I think it is $150 or so a sheet for 3/4. You still have sandpaper, silica, milled glass, and paint or gelcoat to account for. Say around $420 in materials. Hope this helps. I’ll have the transom replacement video up before long. Thank you for watching!

[@MegaThunthun]

@@FishHuntCookTinker thank you for replying . I’m in North Carolina and trying to find help.

[@FishHuntCookTinker]

No problem. Honestly replacing the transom was one of the easier parts of this project. I have the removal video up already if you haven’t seen it. I had to wait till I finished the deck to reinstall the transom. The ply sits on top of the deck. Doesn’t go to the bottom of the hull.

[@FishHuntCookTinker]

I just realized I told you wrong on the amount of fiberglass. I used about 12 yards not 4. I had thought I cut the 30” wide pieces in 1/2 to make two pieces. I did not. I ran the excess onto the deck to tie transom to the deck. 15 yards is $37.50.