Monarch 10EE Lathe Refurb part 21

[@ericbest3287]

This has been a fantastic series and the quality of the videos and work on the lathe are both great. I have a 1953 10EE ELSR and it is, by far, my favorite lathe to run. Thanks for undertaking this project!

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks Eric! Really appreciate the comment

[@mkemachineinc.8058]

Looking great! The reverse speed adjust is that black knob right next to where the coolant pump button would have been. That was an ELSR option from Monarch that allows you to have a different forward and reverse spindle RPM. It is a handy option to speed up threading operations. You can have a very slow forward rpm when actually threading but when you disengage from the thread pass to reverse the carriage back to the start it can be set to a faster speed to get back to the start quicker.

[@bid6413]

Mike, I’ve never seen that feature before. How difficult would it be to retrofit to a lathe that already has the ELSR? Any tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Will

[@mkemachineinc.8058]

@@bid6413 You would have to contact Monarch for the full details on that one. I have never done a retrofit so I can not offer any advice on the process.

[@bid6413]

Mike, Thanks. I’ll do that after I finish reassembling my 10ee. A friend told me he had visited Monarch and they had rows of books full of details about the many iterations of 10ee lathes.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks for the info!... I actually was wondering about that speed knob controlling reverse later that day but didn't get a chance to try it. I guess I thought that the reverse speed know was only enabled in threading mode

[@bid6413]

Kevin, Congratulations! You have done such a great job reclaiming it. It is esthetically absolutely such a treat to look at. It is sculptural. The quality of your work on each step of the way through the process shows. Thanks for documenting and sharing that process with the rest of us 10ee lovers. The backlash on the gears behind that plate is adjustable. I haven’t adjusted mine yet so I can’t speak from experience, yet. I have had it apart and unless something is broken or you’ve got a bad bearing it will be very obvious how to adjust the lash. If you do find good Practical Machinist links please post them. I’ve waded through PM 10ee posts and threads and there is a lot of great information but it takes some sorting. Wonderful work Kevin. Cheers, Will

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks Will! Always appreciate the words of encouragement! Do know if the headstock oil needs to be drained before removing that cover?

[@bid6413]

@@fourpondsshop7940 I don’t think you need to drain anything, the gears have sealed bearings. The casting is the top part of the gearbox, completely separate from the headstock. I don’t recall how the gears are lubricated. The back of that area has a simple sheet metal plate with one unsealed hole to allow for a shaft. Good luck. I’m looking forward to seeing what you find, hopefully just a lash adjustment and/or replacing a bearing. Cheers, Will

[@assembler01]

A good day made better, I always enjoy and look forward to your videos, good job. Four Ponds Shop and Haxby Shed, I like following you both! Keep them coming!

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks!! Will do

[@dmadere1]

Great job!! What about converting the old tubes to modern electronics?

[@russkepler]

Scissio Controls makes semiconductor replacements for the C16Js and they're pretty cheap relative to buying new C16Js

[@fourpondsshop7940]

I'm going to check that out..thanks!

[@danf6070]

Looks fantastic! Awesome to see it finally running. I have a Sebastian lathe that I cannot determine the age of but it must have been around the turn of the 20th century because it certainly has that aesthetic and was clearly designed to be run on a line shaft. Anyway, it also has the ability to advance the cross slide and carriage at the same time. Thought that was really neat. Another cool feature on the chuck that came with the machine is that it's a 4 jaw chuck that can be switched from auto scrolling like a 3 jaw to independent scrolling for dialing in parts. The patent on the chuck says 1875 if I recall correctly.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks Ned..appreciate the comments!

[@outsidescrewball]

Congrats and best wishes on sorting out issues

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks...I'll take them on one at a time and not get frustrated!

[@outsidescrewball]

@@fourpondsshop7940 did you get my emails on the taper part?....just checking

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Hi Chuck..yes I did..sorry, I got tied up nd forgot to let you know!!

[@glennstasse5698]

Wow! Tubes! I had no idea any of these machines used tubes. It’s great you have a working set of them because Lafayette left town many years ago. Are those coils on the left side of the panel resistors? No wonder there’s a fan in there. Fabulous tour. Good luck in finishing up.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Ha yes! So yup, those coils are braking resistors. Reading through the theory of operation in the monarch manual, it says energy from the spinning motor is sent to the resistors to facilitate rapid braking

[@glennstasse5698]

@@fourpondsshop7940 regenerative braking from the ‘40s!

[@mitsmillman1652]

Time to dive into the black box

[@fourpondsshop7940]

You might be right... I had to replace the diodes on my other 10ee

[@Randallvgc]

The change gears are underneath the cover where the noise is coming from. There is an adjustment to take out the play, maybe it’s not adjusted correctly. Thanks for the videos hey are great!

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks...I'm going to dive into that this week

[@russkepler]

I'll have to check blueprints but I think your relay is the Quick Slowdown Relay. It engages the brakes when you slow down fast enough that the drive naturally slows. Sometimes tuning the drive gets past that so the compensation isn't fighting with the QSD And as someone mentioned the reverse speed is on the left side of the start panel

[@russkepler]

Just checked and according to print 61214 that big relay is the QSD relay. It might be that the compensation on the drive (potentiometer P1 on the module, I think) is set too high. You can set it by running the drive slowly (not in back gear) and grabbing the spindle with your hand (probably gloved). If it slows turn it up, if it speed up turn it down. You'll find the sweet spot pretty quickly. There's likely a better description of the procedure over on practicalmachinist, somewhere. It's also possible that one or more diodes is out in the module. The same source would show how to cheaply make replacements for the very expensive mil spec diodes in the module.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks for the tips!

[@Theduallyshop]

That’s awesome your going a great job happy to see it running, my EE does the same cutting in and out on low speeds wanted to know what causes it.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

I'll post whatever I find to clear up this issue. Thanks for watching!

[@mikescott4007]

The machine is alive very cool👍🏻😁👍🏻😁👍🏻😁👍🏻😁👍🏻😁👍🏻😁👍🏻😁👍🏻😁

[@fourpondsshop7940]

It was very reassuring to see it run, now hopefully the debug phase will go smoothly!

[@mikescott4007]

👍🏻

[@dlfabrications]

The tubes you are reinstalling are for amplification or variable frequency source?

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Hi and thanks for checking out the video! So I found the text below when I was searching for alternatives to the tubes : Medium-power thyratrons found applications in machine tool motor controllers, where thyratrons, operating as phase-controlled rectifiers, are utilized in the tool's armature regulator (zero to "base speed", "constant torque" mode) and in the tool's field regulator ("base speed" to about twice "base speed", "constant horsepower" mode). Examples include Monarch Machine Tool 10EE lathe, which used thyratrons from 1949 until solid-state devices replaced them in 1984

[@ericbest3287]

On older motor generator units with ELSR, the speed control for reverse is separate from the main rheostat and is on the back of the machine.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks Eric.. I'm going to give that a try when I hook power back up this week

[@brandontscheschlog]

Love these restorations but What the point of restoring these if you dont regrind and scrape it back into tolerance. How are you verifying its condition?

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Hi, Yes I did verify and I couldn't detect any wear with the exception of the tail stock on the first 10EE.

[@brandontscheschlog]

@@fourpondsshop7940 you need proper equipment to actually verify how much wear they have and 10EE’s are good at hiding wear because of the span of the carriage ways especially since they move such a short distance. Not only that, but the parts you’ve replaced throughout your videos indicate that wear has had to of occurred. The work you’re doing is beautiful, but you’re hiding it’s true condition with a shiny paint job.

[@Ideasite]

Forget video length. Interesting content takes however long it takes. You're not selling video games. This is a very specific craft & the more information you provide, the better. There is no simple rule that can be applied - only averages that non-machinists can calculate across all videos. It's just not important. Keep up the great work and do it your way. Ignore advice from "experts".

[@rodneykiemele4721]

I agree 110% ! I would rather watch 30 to 40 min. videos anyway

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Thanks guys! Appreciate the feedback for sure!

[@dlfabrications]

Sorry maybe you already mentioned this but what is the max distance between centers?

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Hi.. So I have 3 10ee lathes, 2 are considered 20" and one is considered 30". I've never actually measured the true distance. I'm sure it varies with chuck style and or collet style

[@Anotherhomeshopguy]

waiting that minute was a long minute then I saw there was like 10 min of video to left and I thought..uh oh..then the light came on and I let out a whew..lol

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Ha...yes, it was a long minute!

[@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision]

The compensation trim pot in the module is set too high. And possible bad diodes in rectifier 3, but I dont know much.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

I checked all the diodes and they test fine. I even swapped out the module from my other machine and it's the same

[@waynep343]

does anybody else worry about the tubes overheating laying out away from the air flow??

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Hi...I'm sure its not the best thing for them for a long time but for troubleshooting, I don't think its a problem

[@acme4786]

Sent your channel link to Abom79. He will definitely find it interesting. I know I have.

[@fourpondsshop7940]

Wow.. Thanks! He's why I got started adding machining to my home shop!