More 1948 Ford Prefect-ing .. brakes, grease, dent removal & more on the Old Classic Car UK channel

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Hi, thanks for watching, a full list of the videos on the channel is here: kzbin.infovideos Channel homepage: kzbin.info/door/KaTg9fPUvmUQi94FcnDbrg

[@TheHorsebox2]

Love seeing an old survivor getting TLC. Always a joy to watch the channel, and most therapeutic too!

[@austinswallow]

Always nice to watch someone else doing the work and helps to motivate too! Don't be put off showing the full detail, it can be quite therapeutic to watch! Thanks for sharing!

[@tremere613]

All your cars are so lovely, even the mx-5! Thank you for sharing! Enjoyed seeing the old manuals especially!

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Thanks for your kind words

[@rydermike33]

An excellent update, thank you for sharing. The Prefect is in great condition underneath. Look forward to the next installment.

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Hi, yes it's not tooooo bad underneath but there are a few corners that will need a welder waving in their direction at some point, but not right now (nothing structural). Thanks for watching

[@stephenricketts7764]

All interesting stuff even the door banging reminds me of cold winter days (and sometimes nights) working to get something ready for action. I would be interested to see a video on the MG. I think the panel beating wad quite good even if you didn't have all the right tools to hand. A former neighbour of mine had an old 'pug', the drivers door got caught by the wind so creaked against the wing. I didn't have a dolly to hand but did have a hammer and a large block of wood. I think at first he thought I Was wercking his car but he was quite happy when I had finished. I am not blowing my own trumpet but am merely demonstrating that add hoc tools will do as long as you are careful. Thanks for sharing this video. 👍

[@martinwarner1178]

I call the credits of your channel frequently. I believe this one is a mechanical history video, so interesting. Thank you. Peace be unto you.

[@williamwade641]

A great video which reminds me of my Ford Pop days. The brakes, usually referred to as rod rather than cable, improve a lot when you take the slack out of the linkages. My father’s Riley Kestrel had cable brakes which were a bit more complicated due to the tendency for the cables to stretch.

[@millomweb]

I mentioned this BUT in his case, they are CABLES ! Possibly rod to front and back then cables between the wheels. He needs to have the shoes properly adjusted before adjusting cables and rods.

[@williamwade641]

@@millomweb Thanks for the clarification.

[@gogglet72]

Brilliant video as always. I like the lubrication guide they are very useful when working on old vehicles. You made a very good job of the dents. Carnt wait for the 60th anniversary mg video.

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Thanks for supporting the channel :)

[@andrewsnoozy]

Good video - enjoyed watching

[@davidchandler8881]

In one of your videos recently you extolled the benefit of the information obtained from old car magazines. I entirely agree with you and have noted that the technical authoring of these magazines of the 30s, 40, and 50s was top class, but began to decline in the late 60s onwards as photos started to replace the wonderful technical drawings. These early magazines often contained small adverts for parts and services that you'll never see in later magazines. Here's one from October 1959 edition of Practical Motorist. "Dismantling. Armstrongs about 20 being stripped to reclaim parts. 1930 - 1950 Hurricane and Typhoons." So that's what happened to WW2 aircraft when the jet age came along😊. Keep up fettleing.

[@scottstrails9369]

Handy stuff,easy watching ,thanks for posting

[@bobspeller2225]

Interesting work and lookslike you have a nice collection of motors. Good work. Cheers Bob

[@funlifebananas1061]

Another great video. The tins for the cotterpins etc are works of art in themselves.👍

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Old-stock all the way, whenever possible :-)

[@carlart7342]

Loving these videos👍very helpful as i'm a complete beginner in the early stages of getting a 1947 prefect back on the road. Lots to learn but enjoying the process.

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Good luck with your project, while the Prefect is no longer here I do still have the similar E494A Anglia

[@jimmyviaductophilelawley5587]

I had a pre-BMX Tiger Motocross pushbike when i was a kid and it had drum brakes on it. What a pain in the arse they were. I remember the brake cable used to snap at the drop of a hat!

[@greerbox]

That was interesting and informative Rick. I’m impressed with your panel beating skills even more so with no ‘dolly’

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Thanks, the tin-bashing brought it back close enough for my purposes, but I don't think Mulliners will be dropping me a line anytime soon :-)

[@greerbox]

@@oldclassiccarUK maybe if they supplied you with a dolly you might get an interview 😳

[@millomweb]

Another big hammer suffices ;)

[@davemiller6893]

Good morning, Cup of tea and one of your videos, what a great start to the day. It was really fascinating watching you work on the Prefect. There is something special about unrestored cars. They seem to tell their story as you delve into them. You obviously have collected so much old car related material, the job would soon draw to a halt if you hadn't. Once again thank you for taking the time to post, yours is a great channel.

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Thanks Dave!

[@millomweb]

With the brakes and linkages correctly adjusted, you should be able to lock all 4 wheels - making them skid. Sorry, I don't have Geoff Capes' phone number. When you see you've locked all 4 wheels, you know you don't need to replace any of the cables ;) #TESTED !

[@millomweb]

If you've not dismantled both the brake shoe adjuster and the operating pistons (at the bottom), I suggest you do so and reassemble with 'copper grease' on all the working surfaces. I trust you assembled the new clevis pins well-greased too - to stop them wearing like the old ones ! How worn were the clevises ?

[@millomweb]

26:22 the puller in the pic looks like it has an oil hole on it for the working thread ! I'd use grease though !

[@millomweb]

26:00 Grease the working thread of your puller before using it. It'll work a lot easier ! You could also use the puller on the castellated nut once that nut's been loosened - rather than the puller pushing against the smaller diameter of the shaft. Ideally, you want to avoid damaging the end of the shaft/threads with the puller !

[@bobwilcox1147]

You should never be ashamed of having a small wire brush. Size doesn't matter, it's how you use it!

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Wise words :)

[@millomweb]

My previously viewed video was of Keith Rucker, Vintage Machinery. His wire brush was electric ;) kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGnMaJybeqdoipo

[@millomweb]

5:15 I don't think you're right about adjusting those wheel bearings. With that kind of nut, it suggests they're not adjustable bearings - if there's play in the bearings, it means fitting new bearings. Well, they are taper bearings - so yes you do adjust them with the castellated nut. Normally of this type there's not a castellated nut but a plain nut with a castellated cap to go over the nut with lots of castellations so it can be finely adjusted. Hopefully when it goes back together you can tighten it to the next position (or 2) before refitting the split pin. In cases of good grease like that, I'd keep the whole thing clean an reassemble without using new grease.

[@dennislancet]

The rear hubs are '' three quarter floating ' design, before using the puller please loosen the castle nut a few turns but leave it on. The hub & brake drum assembly fits on to a taper, it could release with a big bang like a bullet, the nut will prevent the assembly flying off & injuring you big time. 100E rear hubs are the same design, 105E 's had separate brake drums.

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Thanks for the tip, yes I tend to leave the nut on in situations like this (same with splitting ball joints etc) 👍

[@Vince_uk]

👍

[@mark1966]

Taper bearings are not to be over tightetened, sometimes the castle nut can be finger tight

[@oldclassiccarUK]

That's true, when I put it back together it was only finger tight plus a little

[@mark1966]

@@oldclassiccarUK Your going to be well ready for the summer, well done, a great video for me would be to see you tackle the steering box,? I often wonder if the difference it would make would be worth the effort ??

[@millomweb]

Once the slack is out, just tighten to the next alignment for the split pin. Nothing wrong with a bit of bearing pre-load.

[@noelokeeffe3423]

Hi I have an E493A which I just starting to work on but both front wings need attention, so I wondering if you have any ideas how I could make sections with the reinforcing wire inside. any ideas would be a help Thanks

[@oldclassiccarUK]

The Prefect has gone to pastures new, although to be honest I'm not best placed to suggest any bodywork tips!!!

[@millomweb]

11:50 You keep mentioning 'cable' - those are not cables but 'rods'. Well I thought it was a rod - until I saw it bent ! So it is a cable ! Do you know how old they are - are they due for being changed ? I'll come to that later !

[@retrobrid2784]

How can I send you photos of old cars and trucks?

[@Thomas-g5t2k]

My first car very different to cars these days

[@alastairqueen7973]

The rubber used on those shrouds isn't as flexible or resilient as the rubber used back in the 1950's, in my experience. Nothing new in that, in the classic car world! [Daihatsu 4Trak rear bump stops have similar issues..they last about 6 weeks!] The problem seems to be, that with the action of steering, the rubbers soon split. Which is why I recommended earlier, if actually using the car, to use suitably-sized electricians glands [made of modern stuff, maybe neoprene??}....which can be made to attach, and , flex more without splitting. In any event, it might help longevity if the hole in the rubber cove is very slightly enlarged? Also, lubricating the rubber cover liberally with that red rubber grease helps it to slide better. It needs to stretch and compress quite a lot as steering lock is applied. It might have been useful, seeing as you had to dismantle the brake expander nuts, to mention the use of the Thackeray washers? Those ex[pander nuts should not be tightened up, but left very slightly loose, with the Thackeray washers behind, so the expanders can be free to slide a bit. This is the self-centering action for the brake linings. A bit of grease behind the rubber boot plate also helps, as the whole lot has to slide a bit every time the brakes are applied. Grease also can be applied to the brake adjusters, to prevent them seizing up. MAkes the more frequent service brake adjustment easier, more of a pleasure than a chore. I note you intend swapping the wheel size for the very slightly larger diameter 17 inch [Popular/Anglia] wheels? The reason Ford used the 16 inch wheel size on Prefects, was because of the much heavier weight of the Prefects, compared to Anglias and Pops....with the same engine output, and gear/final drive ratios. So, when driving, on the level no real issues may arise, but, come to a hill, and the Prefect will struggle a bit more on 17 inch rear wheels, when compared to 16 inchers. Also, if wanting to fit more modern, radial tyres [because they might be cheaper?] then they are more readily available in the 16 inch size.

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Thanks for the info, in the end I didn't dismantle the brake expanders. Lubricating the cables with red rubber grease occurred to me while I was putting it back together, and is on my shopping list. As for the 17s I'll see how it goes, I can always swap back again.

[@alastairqueen7973]

@@oldclassiccarUK Thackeray washers go on the expander studs after the rubber boot ...I didn't mention removing the expanders themselves..but to ensure the nuts aren't done up too tight, compressing the odd-shaped washers, which should have some 'spring' left in them. This so that the whole expander [and boot itself] can move to centralise themselves at each brake application..The washers can, with age, and previous over-tightening of the nuts, remain compressed, so I find that 'stretching out' the washers carefully before replacing them helps...Or, better still, get some new ones from the club? These help make the rod n cable brakes [Girling] work so much better than half-corroded hydraulic efforts...I use an old Skoda Rapid toolkit 8mm spanner for the adjusters, kept on the car full-time...it has a ridge around the jaws, making them a tad wider in depth...super for the job! Loadsagrease everywhere helps too...Scruffy, but useful.

[@yekateradiffin5939]

Is that a car phone?

[@oldclassiccarUK]

Hi, it's a house phone in the shape of a car (Mercedes), it works very well

[@millomweb]

It Beta had be ;) I remember Betaphone brand - I guess it is. Talking of memories - you don't hear of Carphone Warehouse now do you ;)