More Tecumseh Trouble - Low Compression

[@georgedyson9754]

I have watched a few videos of yours where the valve stem is too long to give the proper clearance. Presumably the engine has been this way since it was manufactured as the valve stem could not grow longer surely. I find this surprising - lack of quality control?

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

With the flat head engines the valve slams into the block material... if the valve seat in the block is "soft" or the block is "soft" the valve digs itself down into the block... so the valve stem "falls" towards the lifter closing the gap... no lead or low lead gas can exacerbate this as can non hardened valve seats...

[@jcondon1]

During normal use, valves wear into the valve seat. As it does so the clearance closes up. The same happens on cars. The difference is most car engines use hydraulic lifters. They maintain the clearance as the valve wears in so no adjustment needed (unless you own a Honda which still uses solid lifters like the Tecumseh).

[@somerandomguy3868]

Valves can and do get longer, the engine running hot under a load or if it's lean, also low on oil can do it, head bolts are the same way for the same reasons

[@shaunewing8973]

the valve don't grow lol. the seat sinks . its a fine balance on these L Heads

[@NY411Info]

@@shaunewing8973 Yep, but usually will run forever. Even when abused. Try never changing the oil on all of these chain drive junkers that some companies make now. Don't get me started on plastic gears, cams and so forth.

[@proiectediversebycosty1544]

Hello James and his followers. I am Romanian and have been living in the UK for 8 years. I have been following James for about 2 years and I have learned a lot from him. I can already boast about 30 repaired and perfectly functional generators. I still have more to learn from James. In the future I hope to be able to film all my activity and post it on KZbin. At the moment I don't have recording equipment. Thank you James for how you explain and I can say that it is a small business for me after JOB hours and on weekends. I wish you all the best! RESPECT!

[@dariusstruna1423]

Și eu am invățat multe de la James

[@NY411Info]

Glad ur learning something. James is rather thorough on his videos. Too thorough for me since I work on this junk as well. However we all sometimes learn tips and tricks from each other.

[@alanoakley2513]

+easea÷is

[@lestergillis8171]

Exhaust valve may be burnt.

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

I’ll watch this one later when I get a chance, but I have an early remark. I have at least two freebie OPE pieces that have been sitting unrepaired for at least a couple years. I did what I could when I first got them but eventually set them aside because I was stumped. I’ve learned during that time what is most likely wrong with them and how to correctly diagnose and repair now. What I’ve learned from this set of circumstances is that, as I progress along my small engine repair learning curve, eventually I will acquire the skills and tools to master specific issues and those pieces I set aside will eventually be good candidates for successful repair. I also learned this same concept in my career as a self-employed baker (14 years and counting). With enough study and/or experience and repetition the solution to a problem will eventually surface. Don’t give up on something because you can’t figure it out right now. Take a step back and move on with other things and be willing to let the answer reveal itself as you continue to study and work in the field. Nowadays unless it’s a customer’s piece I do my research and if nothing presents itself I just let it go, knowing eventually I’ll figure it out. “I hope this helps someone.” 😉

[@hester781]

I didn’t know you were a baker! Do you have a shop on the cape?

[@stephenreiner1523]

Very comprehensive video as always and excellent narrative.

[@bertgrau3934]

When I get a piece of equipment that won't run, the first 2 things I check is spark, and compression. If it has spark and compression, I check for gas. If it fires on carb cleaner then it can be either the carb or fuel pump (if it has one)

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

@@bertgrau3934 Bert, I have an algorithm I’ve developed to check out OPE depending on whether it’s 2T or 4T equipment. Both utilize FACTS (fuel, air, compression, timing, spark), which I try to keep in mind at all times during my diagnosis. I try to approach diag in the most efficient manner possible to eliminate unnecessary steps and time. Since the preponderance of issues center around fuel delivery I focus on that first by eliminating the others immediately. Using 4T as an example, I confirm presence of adequate oil, block off fuel supply to carb and attempt a start with a spray bottle of 2T fuel into the intake. If the engine burns off the fuel then I’ve already eliminated air, compression, timing and spark so the only thing left is fuel. Only then do I look at the fuel tank to determine whether it’s prudent to allow fuel already present to attempt a 2nd start and longer run. Once that’s accomplished I turn my attention to whatever work the engine is supposed to do, except in the case of the generator, when I’ve already got a light connected like James to confirm generation.

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

@@hester781 JD, I bake out of my home kitchen and, since the Pandemic, set up my Roadstand three blocks away in a spot with good exposure. I also ship. No website, no advertising - just word of mouth and the location. Fridays/Saturdays 10-2. I have an eList of 550 currently, although it was up to 1400 at the end of 2019. I’ll send you a copy and a note.

[@js8039]

I do believe our Mr. Condon is a trained surgeon, Dentist or equivalent. If not he should be, he has the hand steadiness of one .

[@taebsen]

And his patient’s would be super clean after surgery!

[@travis3401]

I have thought the same thing. “I wonder if this guy is a dentist…”. I get dentist vibes from the way he uses tools…

[@MothKeeper]

And you can train hand steadiness? 😂🤣😂🤣 Think before you type 🙄

[@jeffkulessa9398]

I never cared much for Tecumseh engines except for their 2strokes. They all seemed to miss and poor quality control. They come from the factory with tight valve clearance. Keep up the great videos, you show the world what craftsmanship and pride are all about. For that I give you thanks. 👍

[@jimrky6062]

Just a thought from automotive carburetors: when a throttle plate comes loose from its' shaft, it repair can be attempted by 2 means. 1) Put the shaft and plate in proper orientation and re-stake the plate on the shaft or 2) re-orient the shaft and plate and solder or braze the two together. My dad and I repaired a few carbs in this manner BITD, saving customers a lot of $$$ for new or even used replacement carbs.

[@jcondon1]

Either would have worked. If I wanted to save it, I likely would have swapped the hole throttle plate and shaft with another OEM carb. I have at least 30 in a bin. Not exactly the same as I need but I bet the parts I needed would have swapped over. Will give it a try.

[@georgemartinezjr]

Good work

[@YukonHawk1]

I love these long vids. Excellent content and instructional value. Thank you James

[@melkiorwiseman5234]

Oooh! It's a marathon video! This should be fun! I've made a start on attempting to fix my first little genny. It's a "Super Works" which has "1800W" on the outside but when you look more closely, you discover that's the peak rating and the continuous rating is 1500W (at 240V since that's the standard house voltage on this side of the world). It looks like the gennys which James has said are "Honda Clones" and the symptom was that it simply would not start. My first guess is that because I foolishly left fuel in the carb, that it's blocked. The first thing I did was pull the carb off and open it up and I discovered that it's really bad inside. The needle (which is a strange spring-loaded type I've never seen in any videos here) seems to be completely stuck, to the point where even wiggling it around with needle-nose pliers won't free it up, so I've ordered a new carb which is advertised as being compatible. I also discovered that the fuel outlet is blocked at the tank, so I'm not sure what I'll do about that, yet. So far, I'm working on just getting the engine running, then I'll work on the fuel tank. I'm disabled, so it'll take a while, but I hope to get it running and then sell it for more than I put into repairing it. (I have a better, working generator to replace it). I hope this wall of text interested someone. 😉😆 About the video: That exhaust valve looks newer than the intake valve. My first guess would be that someone just replaced the valve without realising that the valve stem needed to be ground down in order to adjust the gap to the correct value. They thought that it was just simply a matter of replacing the valve.

[@jcondon1]

I noticed the same thing on the other Tecumseh too. Also a tight valve.

[@mintercms]

​@@jcondon1 I took just did one on an Ariens snowblower, admittedly not with the same grace as you 😂, and found the exact same thing. I find it very odd. I primarily work on 60's through late 70's Ariens snowblowers and they all have 5-7hp Tecumseh engines. I've never encountered this much variance on valves in those older engines. Another observation is I did not see any signs of excessive wear considering over .0010 wear. I find that odd or am I wrong?

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

There may be a pencil filter inside the tank. Remove the petcock to find it. It can be cleaned easily with carb cleaner or shop air.

[@marcheld]

25:36 Hi James. Does the Tecumseh have a rubber intake valve seal like the Kohler’s? When I did the valve job on my M18 I noticed that one of the seals became petrified and disintegrated when I pulled the valve. Also l didn’t see how the keepers work in your video. The Kohler has a split wedge that needs to be inserted with grease to hold it on the stem, then you release the spring compressor. (Didn’t watch when you posted yesterday because it happened when SpaceX Starship was launching . Yes, I’m quite the nerd)

[@jcondon1]

@@marcheld there is a seal on the intake valve. This engine did not use the wedge keepers. The spring retainer cap was slotted. Much easier to install.

[@sweetlou5902]

Mmm almost 2 hours! Love the length, watching now!

[@petergutting1339]

That’s what she said.

[@basilbrushbooshieboosh5302]

You know, it pleases me no end to see that you put care into cleaning the geny's all over, even all the parts that don't affect the running of the machines. Conversely, other yt channels utterly bug me when, although they get whatever machine running, they leave other parts of the machine filthy. Your jobs are well done mate.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@seastacker8582]

I’ve had a couple of generators with that engine. Reliable, but damn they are the loud! Both exhaust and internals rattling around. I tried quieting one with the optional muffler kit. It helped sort of, but I then realized how much of the noise was internal.

[@shanwar9844]

Not like you need more comments but that video clip where you show the governor and the carb working together in amazing clarity knocked my socks off!!! You do some amazing things explaining and showing how it works. Hats off as usual and thank you 😊

[@sharkey5150]

Hello, from Georgia, USA Mr. James! I’m a Subscriber and never miss a post. You sir, do great work and every episode continues to show your patience, strong work ethic and Your strive for perfection. Thank You, for all you do. You nailed it when you said “It’s the nature of the beast”. In my experience “Tecumseh” engines just run like that. They are cold natured, often have rough idle but, when you give them the “Beans” they’ve always performed well. At age 16 I made a business out of driving around area neighborhoods in my old 73’ “Datsun” p/up truck picking up old lawn mowers and occasional tiller from the curb, usually with a sign “Take me please, FREE”. I’d say 80% of the time they were Tecumseh powered. Back in those days I only ran into two brands “Briggs and Stratton” being the other which were simple and a snap to get running again after cleaning the points, resetting the gap they’d fire right up. (Showing my age there)Then, with a little spray paint, maybe a wheel or 4, turn around and sell them cheap and still make a good profit for a teenager. But, to many people’s dread “The Tecumseh” to average southern folk seemed to need too much “babying”. Tecumseh’s just don’t take well to being left BESIDE the shed to winter instead of inside. Ha Ha ha!! Which always turned out in my favor because most of the “Tecumseh’s” would be transported to a mini bike or go cart frame and would usually out run most Briggs. I do believe the “Tecumseh” was a good prerequisite for me to motorcycle engines later. Thanks for the memories! Love your channel!

[@jcondon1]

When it comes to powering a heavy load, Tecumseh wins. They are rough around the edges and harder to work on, but they are built like tanks.

[@Amy_McFarland]

Amazing! I don't know what it is about your videos but I am always hooked, start to finish! I learn so much and you are a great teacher! FYI - I never watch vids that are this long!

[@OttawaOldFart]

We have been clamouring for longer videos and he delivers

[@DanKoning777]

I had to laugh when the outro started-the "pull start and rough running motor" almost mirrored the sound at 1.27.20-all 3 in fact. 😂 Thanks for another great video. I love the extended versions of what I'm sure could be much shorter via some editing on your part-again thanks. God bless.

[@jcondon1]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@danielburke8350]

When I was a small engine tech in the 80's, I hated seeing a Tecumseh come through the door. They were always the worst engines I had to work on.

[@chuckmayerchak3071]

Totally agree! Never saw a good one, no matter what size

[@brad9529]

I've never worked on small engines, but from watching this channel, I can see they are cantankerous, noisy, poorly designed, and run poorly at best. I'm assuming they went they way of the Dodo and for good reason. If I were to get into the business, I'd refuse to touch them.

[@GGigabiteM]

​@@brad9529 Flat head engines are fiddly due to the nature of the design. Since the combustion chamber is an L shape, you're never going to get an efficient engine. Since the valves are in the block, you're always going to have valve adjustment issues. But if you keep up with the maintenance, they're so detuned that they'll run forever. More modern pushrod small engines aren't necessarily badly designed, a lot of run issues are due to EPA mandates. Small engines now are having the same problems that auto manufacturers did towards the end of the 70s with EPA mandates on emissions. The quick and dirty fix that auto manufacturers did back then is what small engine manufacturers are doing now, leaning the fuel:air mixture as much as possible, to the point where the engine barely runs. They also do things to the carburetor to prevent tampering with the settings. I've seen carbs with broken off adjustment screws, metal plugs over them, or they were press fit in and couldn't be adjusted at all. Small engine manufacturers are really between a rock and a hard place. On one side, they have the rapidly evolving electric tool industry, and on the other, the EPA. The next natural evolution in more efficient and powerful engines would be to go to fuel injection, but that adds a huge amount of cost and complexity to the engine. They'd be hard pressed to find a market for them. If small engine manufacturers had kept up with engine technology instead of producing the same flat head design for 90+ years, it may have been a different story.

[@brianmigon6090]

I’ve had to Tecumseh on all my snowblowers 30 plus years never had problems, but then again I maintain them correctly.

[@paulravitsky2898]

I also disagree. I have 2HH100's that start instantly an purr like kittens at low idle. I have several snowblowers that also start and run great because they are maintained. The problem is getting genuine Tecumish parts as the chinesium stuff from the jungle website and fleabay are junk!

[@FarmCraft101]

I have that same generator, and it has always given me fits getting it to run right. Seeing the difference you got out of drilling that pilot jet has me wanting to tear into it again, even though I don't even use it anymore. Great work Jim. You have taught me a lot about small engine mechanics.

[@derekadams729]

James In my experience. If you put a compound between a bolt/nut faces that is being torqued, it can change torque value significantly. You can get a chart showing what torque to use to different compounds. Just a bit of info.

[@jrevillug]

If I might hypothesise... The miss at light load kinda sounds similar to the misfire that it does when you turn the choke off. My guess is that at low air speed in the intake, a puddle of fuel builds up just behind the carb, and occasionally a surge of fuel gets drawn up into the engine, causing a rich misfire for a cycle or two. Under load, the higher gas speed stops the fuel puddling like that. And while not perfect, it is definitely better when the engine is hot - the fuel vaporising more than it puddles. In old car literature this is sometimes called 'loading up', and one fix is to add a hotspot to the inlet manifold, usually heated from the exhaust.

[@brianwood5220]

Perseverance, James. And you certainly have that. Another great conclusion. Thanks for sharing with us.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@marynunn1708]

Another James Condon Generator Repair morning. Life is good! I love playing the “What will James do next” game. So far my guesses are about 80% correct! 😊.

[@RiverratGoRVing]

James, your knowledge is very impressive in troubleshooting and resolving issues. Each posting shows those of us that DYI how to maintain our equipment. Tks James.

[@robertmailhos8159]

Nearly 2 hours of Mr Condon yes please😊

[@DeadKoby]

Back in 2014, Hurricane Sandy took out power at my parent's home for days... at my home, fortunately only a few hours. A kind gent lent us a generator much like the one you fixed up today. 10HP Tecumseh, same gas tank and similar layout, but it was painted blue. It wasn't a "smooth runner" but it was reliable, and kept the home warm (powering the natural gas furnace) and kept the food in the fridge safe over the 3-4 days it was needed. It was quite awhile ago, but that engine has a "sound"... and if anything yours are running slightly smoother than this one was. Old flat head motors weren't watch like precision... but they got the job done.

[@Spencer-b3v]

Everytime I get a notification you posted a video, it's immediately playing. Love them keep it up!!

[@gumbykevbo]

Pretty likely that the misfiring is coming from that looooong pipe between the carb and the intake port. Fuel is likely puddling there under low velocity conditions and then breaks loose when the puddle gets deep enough for the flow to form a whitecap. That loose lever on the throttle shaft could likely be fixed with a bit of peening and/or some silver solder...sometimes you can fix a part rather than replacing it.

[@petertothpete6518]

Last fall, several Tecumseh powered machines followed me home, most with carb issues. I ordered several needle/seat kits and several bowl/float kits as all the brass float carbs had leaking floats. One thing I do that you didn't is to remove the welch plug in the side and clean out the tiny passages there, seemed to make tuning them easier. On the fully adjustable carbs, there is a tiny tube that slides up and down in the idle circuit passage, you can shake the carb back and forth and hear it if it's not gummed up. You have to reinstall the idle mix screw with the float bowl down or you'll crush the tube and it will never run the engine right, ask me how I know. I was never a fan of Tecumseh carbs (or engines for that matter) either, but once you do a few, their like any other.

[@jw8292]

I'm sure somebody has mentioned it by now, but I'm not seeing it....I can't speak specifically to that model, but most generators of that type have a bonded neutral, so the ground pin on that 240 plug will serve as your neutral. While probably not the 'technically correct' way to do it, it works just fine, I've been providing backup power to my house that way for 25 years.

[@a-k-jun-1]

Another great video Mr James, just as a side note about the drilling of the jets. If the jet is removable and brass, you can solder the jet orifice closed solid and redrill with a smaller bit size if needed.

[@clevelandmatheson983]

I’m glad you take the time to show carb cleaning, tear down and reassembly , I’m not a small engine mechanic but in my experience when dealing with small engines, it seems most of the headaches come from the carb .

[@larrykelly2838]

Nice, I agree with you, it's the nature of the beast.

[@OrlandoHeadley]

I sit or lay every Saturday and watch his videos for hours,the best in this field by far

[@robertmorin6495]

I like that valve spring compress tool. Excellent work James

[@philstreeter9703]

Great job James. I have a snow blower with a 7hp Tecumseh engine and it's a beast. It runs just the 3 you have in the video.

[@gaetansimard1594]

Form a funnel…! An other tool I did not know existed but this is what I need for all my small engine. Stop making a mess..Love those video!

[@mjsouth1068]

Just found your KZbin channel.James love your presentations thank you.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

The Tecumseh snow blower engines had a warm air shield around the carb that used part of the exhaust muffler to heat the air that went into the carb (no filter), defrosted the carb linkages and warmed the long intake manifold... maybe why the had such a stellar reputation on snow blowers. I wonder if one of those warm air ducts (eve homemade or at least part thereof) were fitted to a generator Tecumseh engine if that would immediately improve the idle/full throttle mixture problems.. without overheating the engine of course..

[@Tech-Dave]

Another good one James really impressed by your videos. I always sit and wait until another. One shows up. I have four generators in my garage that I have fixed based on your videos thank you buddy.

[@jcondon1]

Nice

[@davidschipsi1316]

Reasonable saves sometimes not so reasonable. We like that you go beyond, it’s a learning experience.

[@KrisKendall-io4hm]

Thanks for another great video in my experience Tecumseh’s we’re always finicky but you did a amazing job

[@fouridgeek8653]

For cleaning carbs in the ultrasonic, the purple "Simple Green" cleaner will work well and is safe for aluminum. Should also work better than dish soap.

[@jcondon1]

Just tried it the other day and the carb came out great!

[@deere3321]

I'm retired and tinker with all kinds of power equipment stuff. I've gotten to the point where I avoid Tecumseh engines because of the way they run. I had a carb just like these from one that didn't run well and put it on an older Kawasaki FA210D and it runs that engine perfect. Thanks for anoth great, long video.

[@Wiresgalore]

Hey James, recent subscriber to the channel after repeatedly being recommended your videos (I watch a lot of adjacent content I suppose haha) and I gotta say, I've definitely been enjoying the long format meticulous look into the various gen sets that you come across! As someone who really enjoys the electrical aspect of these units as much or even more than the mechanical side at times, something I'd like to see is maybe spend a minute or two showing the spec plate on the gen head or discussing your thoughts on how they went about breaking out the AC side of things for the end user. This ones a good example, as you stated it only has 120V (assuming NEMA 5-20R) and 240V (looks like NEMA 6-15R) outlets available, and how that makes it impractical to connect your load bank for lack of a neutral on the 240V receptacle. Then seeing how you connected the heaters split evenly between the two 120V outlets makes me wonder if they split the phases across each side of the duplex outlet, effectively giving you about 4800W @ 120V available. I'm sure I can't be the only super nerd wondering these things, and a little peek into these aspects of the units you work on would be icing on the cake! Thanks for the laid back and informative content, keep it up!

[@jcondon1]

They did split the phases on the 120 out.

[@Wiresgalore]

@@jcondon1Ah, makes sense then! Definitely a good example of why it's important to "home run" heavy loads back to separate outlets on generators. Most of the time they don't even really make it obvious which outlets are on which leg so you can load them evenly, both on new or old machines. I've seen some funky stuff where they share one leg of the 240V breaker to protect the 120V outlets, "240V" outlets that are just wired for 120V, etc etc. Cost cutting for consumer grade equipment at it's finest i suppose. I still think it would be cool to briefly touch on these things to see how different manufacturers intended the consumer to use the equipment from the electrical side, especially on the more vintage stuff

[@watermanone7567]

Great work James. The last gen. test had a very white area on the exhaust. Is it running to hot on the exhaust or maybe has a timing issue or a valve issue. Thanks for the video.

[@jcondon1]

Maybe. It is also a new (aftermarket) exhaust so maybe normal? Not sure.

[@quickvid6735]

Just past 49mins you mention that the clearance or lash would have gotten worse when the engine warms up and the engine may have stopped running. It seems counter intuitive but valve lash actually loosens when the engine warms up.

[@kriswright1022]

Another great instructional video by the Generator King! The detailing and paitence makes learning fun. Those Tecumseh gens always run lean with no load while cold, and not a lot better when warm, just the nature of the beast with them in my humble opinion. Not that big of a deal because as soon as it starts, its put under load and smooths right out.

[@brucejones2354]

One of the problems with this design is the long intake tube with two 90 degree bends. The fuel, when it leaves the carb, is not vaporized yet. As the air follows the bend the fuel droplets, being heaver, will not follow the air but will impact the outside of the bend of the tube and stick there. This results in a lean condition of the fuel/air mixture. This effect will lesson as the engine warms up under load. If you increase the fuel intake to compensate for this problem when cold, then as the engine warms up under load you will be running to rich. This is known as a " catch 22 "....... you'll find this on most engines with long intakes with many bends.

[@michaelwillis1440]

I use simple pinesol/water mix for a ultrasonic solution. Works great and does not stain

[@gregweinfurtner7774]

With a Tecumseh engines, if they have points, I've always set the points to open at .085" before top dead center of the piston. Use some stick or rod through the sparkplug hole to find that setting and it usually results in a fine running engine.

[@michelhebert2293]

I have watched many of your videos on generators and I wonder which brand should I look for. Thanks for your work.

[@jcondon1]

That is a tough one since I only get the broken ones. You usually cannot go wrong with a Honda. But ones that are a good value are the Predator, Champion and Duromax. Honda, Yamaha and Generac are the best for parts support or a name brand engine.

[@michelhebert2293]

@@jcondon1 Thanks

[@cjmenagh882]

Great video as always. May want to try a hive tool for those petrified bushing removals.

[@colin8532]

Very nice work James, I didn't think it was going to come out so well. I've never been a big fan of these Tecumseh engines. They LOVE to throw rods, at least the ones on snow blowers anyways.

[@General-Eclectic]

Hey James, two thoughts: Have a look at "automotive trim remover tool" at the large river site. I think that might be just the ticket for removing those stubborn bushings with least possible damage. Also, on old beat-up equipment like this, especially when you have reason to believe that they've been exposed to severe environmental conditions (stored outside, flooded, etc.) I think, for the sake of your liability in selling/repairing/donating potentially lethal equipment, you should do a hi-pot/insulation resistance test on every winding.

[@swallowinn4410]

Helo James: you can fix the original carb by peening the brass rivet on the top of the carb. Once tight bend the stop arm that 1:57:36 the idle adjustment serew pushes against to the proper clearance with the butterfly closed. That issue is not rare on tecumseh carbs, if they have not been used for a few years they often get slightly seized and freeing them up loosens the rivet.

[@taylorlapham6367]

Hey, I was wondering if you solved that backfire problem. Glad you found out from subscribers.👍

[@johnhicks735]

Hey James you do know that you can change out those throttle plates and the throttle plate shaft stems. Inside of those Tecumseh carburetor's. And another thing you can compare the throttle stem shaft to swap them over to your OEM carburetor's setups. As long as the orientation and set screw plates are aligned in the same spots they should interchange with each other. The thing to look for is the length and diameter of the throttle plate stem shafts is all that matters in A swap over procedures. It's just trading on for the other is all your basically really doing. Cause you can use parts out of clone carburetor's in situations like that to. Even though you have it working now. It's just another tip trick to you for the future you can use. Later on down the road with issues just like those on the original OEM carburetor's. 👍 Thumbs up to yah for your hard work and all of the effort that you put into that video and generator and carburetor issues to.

[@jcondon1]

Did not think of that at the time. I could have easily swapped the shaft out and kept the OEM carb.

[@chrisssmallengines7163]

The throttle lever is the same as the snowblowers , I always use anti-seize on all bolts because of the aluminum block .

[@davidduma7615]

It's the skeleton of what a snowblower has... missing a couple of levers stacked on the pivot bolt and also a spring. As James said, they're just using it for the ignition kill switch.

[@jjohnson3600]

I use "Mean Green" Super strength degreaser from Menards in my ultra sonic. It works great and the carbs come out clean and looking like new. Even the Tecumsuh carbs.

[@JimBarberio]

I cannot believe you used a different screw driver to beat the bowl off of the carb!!!! I love the grey and black handled bowl beater. I am truly devastated.

[@janne1311]

Tecumseh engines were manufactured under license, in Italy from the 1950s to the 1980s, under the Aspera brand. In Europe, Aspera engines were used in lawnmowers, etc.

[@victoramicci840]

Áspera, or Áspero means "rought" in portuguese... so it's kinda fitting 😅

[@CARLOSTREUIL]

James, I have been. A long term watchher of your channel and appreciate your presentation style. I would like to make a couple suggestions. On your valve stem grinding, you might make an L shapped brace. Take a short piece of 4x4 and drill a hole through it larger than the valve stem. Cut the board in half just at the midpoint of the hole. Cut the board so that it is 1 1/2 inches below the the ideal height on the side of the grinding wheel. Screw a short piece of 2x4 to the bottom. Clamp or screw the 2x4 to your work bench. By spinning the valve in the groove it will be at 90 degrees to the horizon. You can adjust the brace to make it square right to left. Secondly if you buy a 7 in one painters tool and grind a U shaped notch in the end with a little judicious bending in a vice you should be able to make a pry bar for pulling out stop valves from the bushings in plastic gas tanks. It would work better with some wood shims for leverage. Thanks again for what you do.

[@mikehrdlicka8635]

If the float is low more than likely the seat is swollen. I notice the wire on needle generally faces the choke. There is a vent on carburetor on outside of carburetor to right and up from low speed adjustment. At least on snowblowers

[@jcondon1]

I later put a new seat in and had to adjust the float back.

[@bungholesrus]

I just put rings in one just like that last week. Been using it whenever i need to weld something just so i don't go and buy a bigger gauge extension cord

[@rickharfert599]

Great video. Keep up the great upload, always learning something from you, and love the longer videos. Keep them coming.

[@ron827]

These engines with long intake manifolds need plenty of time to warm up before adjusting the carb.

[@richardphelan8414]

Thanks again Jim for your in depth analysis on Tecumseh motor powered machines super tutorial video

[@jayyoung5423]

Broken down fuel stabilizer jelly will get you every time, top notch work James.

[@ohiopat]

A big rain is coming in and James posted a new video. Great Day!!!

[@brianallen9810]

Tecumseh's give everyone trouble. It's why they don't make them anymore. I won't touch them. My hats off to you.

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

Design fault with a long intake manifold...fuel falls out of the fuel/air mixture when cold. adjust it to run cold... and then it won't run properly when warmed up.

[@AZVIDS]

Growing up, every kid with a Tecumseh minibike (Rupp) sat watching everyone else ride….they never ran right!

[@brianallen9810]

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq The one exception is the Snow-Kings.

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

Snow kings had a shield that directed a blast of cylinder cooling air which was then heated by the exhaust muffler over the carb, the carb linkages and the outside of the manifold...and into the carb which has no air filter..... So the air/fuel mix entering the engine was at a constant temperature from just after starting.... @@brianallen9810

[@silverado123]

Hey James, you should check with musty1 and see what he uses in his ultrasonic cleaner for carburetors

[@jcondon1]

The stuff he uses is great for cleaning carbs, but not recommended for ultrasonic cleaners because it is flammable. Also it is toxic. I just switched to Simple Green PRO HD and have had very good results.

[@timclark7507]

I have a chipper with a Tecumseh engine. Had similar issue. Had to do a valve job on it but it ran very well afterwards. Better than new in fact so I wonder if it didn’t have the problem right from the factory.

[@jamienoel]

I was curious about something. This is pertaining to bad rotors you've had on other videos due to the manufacturer using aluminum wiring and not being able to solder it. Could you possibly use those aluminum welding rods they sell at Harbor Freight with a torch to reattach them?

[@jcondon1]

Would be worried about the sparks damaging the varnish on the good wires. Some have said silver solder would work. The other issue is that the broken wires are often brittle and just crumble when trying to work with them.

[@ronaldtodd4819]

You might be able to deal with the misfire issue by cleaning up the flywheel and coil/adjust. Worked for me as my grandfather had a small engine repair shop for years and that’s what he always did.

[@jcondon1]

Tried that and replace the coil on the Tecumseh I tested at the end. That was in a different video. No change for me.

[@johna.s.3847]

Great video's. Can't wait for the next one! I have a generator with the same engine. mine runs flawless. I always run the carb dry.

[@garbleduser]

I wonder if the original person who investigated the cause of this failure accidentally swapped the valves between their respective locations. Commenting before finishing. Now, back to the video!

[@jackdonaghyjr]

WOW! I just watched the first video earlier this week. Perfect timing.

[@rkins100]

Nice job Jim. Never give up or at least push it aside and let the left side of your brain work on it while its aside. Usually that works for me, as I figure it out in my sleep or the fix just pops up out of nowhere.

[@stonedog03]

Have you considered a "soda blaster" for cleaning the engine / generator cases? Soda blasters (they use baking soda as the media) are safe to use on thin metal and aluminum.

[@old-n-still-runnin1597]

As young teens in the late 60s and early 70s we would scrouge broke lawn mowers and repair them to sell for some extra bucks. Even back then Tecumseh's were a pain. We used to call them Tecums**t. I can't imagine working on the newer ones with all the plastic parts and non-adjustable jets. Your a dang genius and yes they just run like that!

[@speedgray7496]

James, I REALLY enjoy your channel. VERY well done. I have had an interest in small engine repair, both as a hobby and business since the mid 1980s. Regarding valve setting, I was taught, especially on the exhaust valve, a slightly loose setting was better than a slightly tight setting, as it further reduced the chance of the valve burning. Thanks again for a great channel! Speed Gray Grand Rapids, MI

[@jcondon1]

Always better on the loose side. Not sure if you can burn a valve on a single cylinder engine.

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

54:20. I automatically replace every seat in these. Buy them by the dozen dirt cheap and no time to remove and install with the Tecumseh tool. When it’s so easy it’s a no brainer. I also always pull and clean the emulsion tube - some of the tiny lateral holes are always blocked.

[@robertsimpson7113]

You should always do a compression check with the throttle + choke wide open!!!

[@generessler6282]

True except that if compression is good without them open, it will certainly also be when they are.

[@jcondon1]

True. Most generators are always throttle wide open then the engine is off.

[@AlfOfAllTrades]

The carb with the loose throttle plate linkage: Spot weld it in place where you need it to be, similar to the other Tecumseh carbs.

[@MacGyver-1]

Almost all the later Tecumseh engines have valve clearance issues after a couple of heat cycles, recently I fixed a snow blower that was at the dealer 3 times and all they did was replace the original carburetor with a junk aftermarket one, valve adjustment is a PITA because they need to be ground down. I believe the issue arises because the valves stretch a bit I grind them on the loose side and it brings them back to life.

[@jcondon1]

Usually not enough to make a difference or measure.

[@MacGyver-1]

@@jcondon1 enough to close the valve lash to zero, I'd say that's enough to make a difference and definitely measure. 18 year old snow blower ( not many hours) ran good for many years slowly lost power and then wouldn't start. What else could have caused the valve lash issue?

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

Recession of the valve in the block metal..... the valve seating face in the block gets pounded by the valve... and the metal of the valve seat in the head starts to recede away from the pounding.... thus the valve stem clearance closes up as the valve head drops down into the block... a problem with non-hardened valve seats and no/low lead fuels @@MacGyver-1

[@jcondon1]

@@MacGyver-1 it also depends on the materials used to make the valve and valve seat. Maybe they changed it up and some wear faster than others. Also possible the clearance may have been a little tight from the factory.

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

34:30. Is that a cup-style wire brush in your Dremel tool? Have you found good quality ones that don’t start throwing wire immediately and stand up reasonably to use?

[@jcondon1]

I use the stainless steel brushes. They hold up better then any other.

[@robertnilsen3452]

James, Do the valve springs have a bilt in clip? I was thinking that the clip (valve spring keepers) would be hard to get on. But it didn't look too hard for you. Thanks Bob

[@jcondon1]

This spring retainer was slotted. Had a volt master generator some time ago the used keepers. Think I had to turn the engine on its side to get them in. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3Opi4icd5WnqJYsi=7X_MFLgzxZtHO65d

[@ni_wink84]

Great video as always James! I had a feeling it was going to be valve train related but honestly didn’t expect the exhaust clearance to be that tight! I have seen that when a valve tulips like on small block Chevy engines that see a ton of combustion heat but didnt expect it in this case, I read a comment where you explained what happens, and it makes a lot of sense! Keep up the great videos

[@michaelkaster5058]

For DIY valve gap grinding, I use a belt sander and a drill a hole in a piece of wood, jig it so the board is parallel to the flat of the sander, just insert and twist the valve. Allows for fine grits for not 'going too far too fast' don't seem to get much of a burr either.

[@imouse3246]

I was surprised when you didn't lap the exhaust valve in BEFORE taking some material off of the end.

[@jcondon1]

The valve should have a little clearance before lapping.

[@speedgray7496]

Hello James: Years ago I took in a large Wisconsin single cylinder (with a Fairbanks-Morse magneto) installed on a Ditch Witch trencher that would not start. Burned exhaust valve; set way tight. Refaced the seat and replaced the valve. After a bunch of other things, got the unit running again. It was near the end of its life cycle, but must have been awesomeI when new. I really enjoy your thought process and how you logic through your problem solving; and your neatness and doing things correctly. Keep up your quality presentations. Speed Gray Grand Rapids, MI PS: I always hated Tecumsehs, too!

[@jcondon1]

They are growing on me, but still not very high on the list for engines I like working on. These 10hp flat head engines do not run very well. Their smaller ones seem to run a lot better.

[@lorrinbarth1969]

That Tecumseh muffler located right above the carburetor has eaten four pair of my winter gloves.

[@dusty1308]

James it would be a great video if you gave us a tour of your shop and tools etc. Would love to see your setup ! Your videos are high quality and very informative. Thanks for all the effort you put into making them.

[@parkerlich5617]

I've noted in several of your videos the difficulty you have removing fuel fittings from the gas tank's rubber bushing. I'm thinking that it might be worthwhile to try using a slide hammer to pop the fitting out. It could eliminate a lot of time and frustration if it works. Just a thought. Your videos are in my list of top favorites!

[@DeerBlaster06]

Tecumseh used to be the engine that was on most of the snowblowers through at least the 90's. I had worked on a few and they always were a pain to tune. I'd tune out the misfiring with no load and as soon as I used the machine there was no power. After re-tuning it under a load it would misfire when I took the load off. I just let it misfire. When I was going to school for small engine repair, (1988), most of the equipment we took in for repair had Tecumseh engines on them.

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

42:25 I would think adding lubricant to the threads and washers would alter torque values much more than surface rust. That said, I always wire wheel fasteners that are rusted or dirty. In this case a set of head bolts might take 5-10 minutes at the most. Hitting the bolt heads after installation with chain lube or wax would preclude debris from sticking and inhibit rusting, plus cleaned fasteners look way better than rusty ones on a finished engine.

[@kylepaluzzi4176]

iv had a valve with to much clearance before and welded the tip and ground it back in spec before so you can put material back lmao.. Love the content!

[@philliphall5198]

I think utube has been the best training tool so far and it’s basically free to those who want to learn just about anything 😊😊😊 Thank Everyone who makes these videos for others to watch enjoy and most of All Learn ❤

[@burntle]

James: I have (5) 10hp Tecumseh snow blowers with similar results. I have always thought that the updraft intake manifold has some negative effect at lower rpm's, with fuel puddling and separation and never getting completely and evenly warm being exposed to the out side air. - Just a thought.

[@jcondon1]

Would be interesting to test. Was thinking the same.

[@Rein_Ciarfella]

35:00 I’ve seen plenty of other videos where people line the cylinder with grease and then bring the piston all the way up to preclude abrasives from getting into the cylinder while they clean the piston crown. I’ve done that with zero negative effect myself. I think leaving carbon on the crown could be almost as bad as missed lapping compound because carbon may tend to stick more readily to a dirty surface and chunks broken off score the cylinder similar to the lapping compound.

[@jcondon1]

Good idea with the grease

[@GregMeyer-p1i]

Your grinding of the valve stem was impresive. Most shops that do larger engines have disc sanders and use s v block to stedy the valve stems.

[@jcondon1]

I recently purchased a v block and a belt sander just for that purpose.

[@liljoeii6091]

That one fights you a little bit but you got it awesome job thank you for the video