Mortise Jig (What every Carpenter & Woodworker should know!)

[@LiloUkulele]

build these all the time...easy peesy..thkx!

[@deezee1570]

I think you should patent that router bit that is capable of cutting sharp corners inside the mortise.

[@howardthaddeus3869]

Dont know if you guys gives a shit but if you're bored like me atm then you can stream all of the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my gf during the lockdown :)

[@frankmarkus8098]

@Howard Thaddeus definitely, have been watching on Instaflixxer for months myself :D

[@jaceknieuzya7389]

YMMD :)

[@Jared-Christensen]

What bit did he use? Is this a joke? Did he have a template internet in his router?

[@deezee1570]

@@Jared-Christensen There are no router bits in the universe that can do what he shows in the video. He failed to show the vital step - squaring the inner corners of the mortise after the routing. Google "mortise chisel" and take it from there.

[@carpenterone3]

I do it the same way but the Caliper trick on the table saw for micro adjustment is new to me and really cool 👌🏽

[@NextLevelCarpentry]

3:05 Keep your BS1000 Board Stretcher on hand just in case! 🤣🤣😎 Thanks for sharing this here B.G.! Best, Matt

[@Katalyst-K]

Great video @buildingguru I would love to see you do this for a mortise lock and also a separate video for hinges. Add a bit more explanation and progress footage. If you could do this then it would be very useful info to put out. Thank you

[@maydanlex]

I look forward to each and every video from this guy. Thanks Building Guru!

[@kiwdwks]

Great tips...thanks!

[@bobmartin6055]

Pretty sure a top bearing pattern bit was used?

[@Nathan-H]

Another great jig. Did you chils out the corners off camera, to allow the 2"x4" to be inserted into the motice you routed?

[@Nathan-H]

@@thebuilditchannel8609 nice thanks for the reply

[@lightbulb1982]

Yeah. This guy is an idiot! Didn't even bother to answer your question with his bonehead comment...

[@spiderlab2526]

What a load of BS. Emphasises working thou of an inch but fails to mention he is using a pattern bit, that you have to eyeball the start and stop points with no safeguards and you have to square the mortise or use rounded tenons. Good salesman but shocking teacher. Anyone trying to follow the video would end up ruining a lot of work till they worked it out!

[@lightbulb1982]

Right? I was surprised nobody else noticed that

[@Jared-Christensen]

At least we know all out glue options!

[@rulasrifaaa]

Excellent idea, but I have a question, do you use a copy accesory on the router or what, cant see it on the video. Sorry about my english, mexican public school you know... Great videos all you post!!

[@deezee1570]

Raul, what he shows in the video will not work. A router bit, as shown in the video, will not give you a sharp, 90 degree corner in the mortise. This looks like April 1st. joke.

[@rulasrifaaa]

@@deezee1570 i think he just forget to show the part of the cinsel doing the square

[@thaitichi]

@@rulasrifaaa He should have really clarified that. Pretty important step to skip.

[@deezee1570]

@@thebuilditchannel8609 This video is making a fast jig and it shows only the use of a router once the jig is ready. The video is deceiving to those less experienced. You should have clarified that it's not the peaches and oranges as you are showing and that an additional work is required.

[@gianmarcopiazza]

In fact I'm sure he's not kidding us but, as a dummy as I am, I prefer when you show and explain more details. The final of the video is not clear enaugh for me (the flush trim bit for example, as corners too). And please, leave some links in the description!

[@Punchy_Portuguese]

I plan on making a similar jig to use on a farm table breadboard ends. What bit would you recommend to use in the jig?

[@thebuilditchannel8609]

If your making a Mortise you can use a spiral up cut bit, if your worried about the surface edge you can use a combo up/down bit.

[@johnchampion7819]

I'm confused. Firstly, you stated a reading of 0.775 on the gauge, but it looked like 0.75 to me. Secondly, you set the saw to cut 9 thousands of an inch less than the measured mortice width. Is this allowance an industry standard? If so, I've been making my mortices wrong for years since I always work to the actual size i.e. a 22mm wide tenon for a 22mm wide mortice. If anything, I ease the mortice slightly to avoid putting any twist into the joint, especially when several mortice joints are used together, such as in a door. Perhaps I have misinterpreted your method?