The Ultimate Router Mortising Jig - now with PLANS!

[@killawee118]

I watched this video more times then I'm willing to admit and made my own version of this. It works really well. I changed alot and kept alot the same. I wish I could send you a picture.

[@jedevans1]

This is most certainly the best mortising jig I've ever used. My only variation is that I've incorporated MicroJig Matchfit clamps and dovetail track in my version, as I use that for just about everything nowadays. Brilliant design Steve - many thanks for sharing it.

[@MrPatdeeee]

Awesome from Steve Maskery always. Thank you kind Sir. I will be pleased to get your plans. For when you say it is good; IT IS GOOD! For you are a "Cut" Above.

[@CeesvanEden]

Made the jig and it works like a charm. Tenon jig is next 😊

[@SteveMaskery]

Yay! Great to hear it!

[@mallykalligirl]

A great idea! I've now added your jig to my "to do" list. Thanks!

[@rbhammerwoodworking8606]

Looks great, think i will build one.

[@akthumbpicker]

A brilliant idea. Simple and very effective. Thank you Steve!

[@berniesr]

That's a great jig well done

[@nicktreston1731]

This looks brilliant. I'll give it a try. I've never invested in a hollow chisel morticer nor the ubiqitous domino and this will enable fast and accurate loose tenon joinery.

[@SteveMaskery]

Yes, I am very pleased with it. If this were my only way of cutting mortices, I would manage just fine.

[@bradleytuckwell4854]

Very nice jig I also love your dust collection on your router

[@SteveMaskery]

Thank you, though I can't take credit for the DX!

[@PaganWizard]

This is really a great mortising jig. I like your idea of having keys on the travel stops, but if I may suggest, use pieces of metal, or UHMW (plastic) for the keys. MDF is fine for the stop itself. Wood, hard or soft, will expand and contract with any level of moisture, and can also dent easily, where the UHMW or metal will not. This would eliminate any chance of ever having to replace the keys.

[@SteveMaskery]

You make a good point, but in reality the keys are so small, as are changes in humidity and temperature, that expansion is not a problem. If I used this every day, and I lived in the kind of environment you describe, then yes, I can see the advantage, but I don't and I have never had such a problem.

[@measuretwicewoodworks]

Looks a bit like a Leigh FMT Mortice and Tenon jig… good job!

[@SirBenJamin_]

He's so smug! :) .. Good jig! :)

[@SteveMaskery]

Yes, but I have the right to be so, don't I? :)

[@MrPatdeeee]

@@SteveMaskery Amen!

[@henryinzunza5575]

@@MrPatdeeee where can I buy the plans

[@ceesvaneden85]

I really like your mortising jig Steve and am thinking of making a similar one. Before I do I need to consider how to make the tenons and am looking for a "ultimate router tenon jig" to create accompanying tenons. Did you create one (hope I didn't overlook it) or can you recommend one? Prefer to make one instead of buying something like the General #870 Mortise and tenon jig, but like the compatibility of the integrated jig.

[@SteveMaskery]

I have indeed published plans for a couple of different router tenon jigs, many years ago on Workshop Essentials Volume 1. But unless you have only a router and no tablesaw or bandsaw, then I suggest that you would be better off building the Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig or the Ultimate Bandsaw Tenon Jig. They are both easier to use and have greater capacity.

[@ceesvaneden85]

@@SteveMaskery Thanks for the quick response Steve. I tried to reply (twice), but seem to have failed. I have both alternatives, but was trying to produce tenons with rounded edges that fit the routed mortices perfectly without having to round them manually (need to make ~120 joints in my project), in a similar fashion t the General #870 mortice & tenon jig for instance. (kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKC8moGjepx8jbc)

[@tomsatterlee8397]

I made and use your box joint jig and it works great. However, I wonder why you believe you mortising jig that the router is guided by an adjustable fence fasten to the router while there are other jigs that either utilize a bushing or captures the router base? Thanks

[@SteveMaskery]

I have made several mortising jigs over the years, including ones based on bushes. Indeed, I still have, and use, a cross-mortising jig that has the entire base in a guide. But this is a development of a desigh I first published 16 years ago. The fence guide idea came from a FWW video which I can no longer find. But this is defiitely the best mortising jig I've ever used, I'm not going back.

[@oneeyedphotographer]

Thank you, Steve. Just one wee problem I have, I want a mortise across the middle of a rail that's two metres long. I have not yet found anyone who addresses that.

[@SteveMaskery]

I have just such a jig. It's not on KZbin, but iit is published on Workshop Essentials Volume 2 : www.workshopessentials.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=50 You can see it in use on my horizontal boring jig: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q3m6ZmBsjZetZtk

[@Kris-82]

Hi, can you make a vid how to properly glue some kind of connections, like the mortise in this case where both wood pieces have mortise cut

[@patswayze2493]

Did u make or buy the router centering pin?

[@SteveMaskery]

@@patswayze2493 I made it, under the supervision of a friend, sadly now gone. It was the first bit of metal turning since I left school!

[@i679n5]

Good jig but there is something uncertain with only having router fence on one instead of both sides. This would of course require another design so unfortunately nothing that can be added.

[@SteveMaskery]

No, this is perfect! :) My original version of this, about 15 years ago now, did have two fences, but it made for a very bulky setup. Functionally fine, but ergonically clumsy. In this version the fence does not just run against the fence, which can lead to slippage, I grant you, but it runs in a groove, so it is trapped and the router cannot move off its required trajectory. Really, it's perfect :)

[@i679n5]

@@SteveMaskery aha! Sorry I missed the groove. Will watch again and pay more attention. Thank you Steve

Why are you using a chopping bit? Why not a spiral uncut bit?

[@SteveMaskery]

Because I don't have an uncut bit. I used to have an upcut bit, but someone stole it, so I use what I have. Anyway, I want to cut the wood, I don't want to uncut it - that would be counter-productive.

[@CooledgeR]

Can this accommodate a mortise 2" wide?

[@SteveMaskery]

Well if you have a 2" diameter cutter, I don't see why not. I assume that the workpiece is also massive, so you might need to beef up the front support. I have to say that I have never seen such a large router cutter.

[@CooledgeR]

@@SteveMaskery With apologies for my not making myself clear. I have 4" x 5" leg for a Roubo bench that I need to cut a mortise into for the crisscross glide. The dimensions of the hole are essentially 2" x 2" 19." I had planned to use a 3/4" pattern bit or a 1" straight bit.

[@CooledgeR]

"Beef up the front support?" Could you please expand on that suggestion?

[@SteveMaskery]

@@CooledgeR Ah, OK, that makes a bit more sense... :) Yes, I think so. You would have to cut two mortices, essentially, side by side, just offset the position of the router, leaving the stops in place.

[@SteveMaskery]

@@CooledgeR Well the front supporton mine is suitable for 1" or 2" stock, it's not designed for 4" stock. So you might want to make it more sustantial and rely on something stronger than a couple of toggle clamps to hold it in place.