HOW DO I FIX ALL THESE GELCOAT CRACKS FOR PAINTING??

VIEWER SUBMISSION: Although this kind of gelcoat damage looks intimidating, it's actually pretty typical and not difficult to fix :-) I think the hardest part about tackling a surface like this is getting over the mental hurdle (also navigating all the material options to make sure these cracks don't ever come back!!)
1 versus 2 part paints? What type of fiberglass to use? What resin to use? Does fairing material make much of a difference?
Short answer is that all these questions are important and the approach to take will vary from project to project based on a number of factors ;-)
Hopefully this info makes your project more approachable!!
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[@boatworkstoday]

I've had a few folks ask for links to the specific materials mentioned in this video, here ya go! Laminating poly resin: tinyurl.com/4nrtvde2 Totalfair fairing compound: tinyurl.com/7m7u8kx5 WetEdge 1 part paint: tinyurl.com/4nh77s49 Alexseal 2 part paints: millerboatworks.com/ 1.5oz CSM: tinyurl.com/573pp8zj Gelcoat w/wax additive: tinyurl.com/5t2f325m Structural Repair Putty: tinyurl.com/3r96eu2y Hope this helps!

[@cochorrorshow1005]

Andy, I remember on several of your videos you talked about endless pinholes during the fairing process. I would love for you to do a pinhole experiment (when you're in better health) by thinning out the fairing compound, and pressing a vibrating electric sander (without sandpaper) on the surface immediately after you've applied the fairing compound while it's still thin. I'm wondering if this will allow entrapped air to escape thus filling the air voids with compound..? I've seen sanders used in this way to remove air from mixtures. I think it may work, at least on horizontal surfaces.

[@gerardburden8498]

Great video, I have these cracks all over my boat so re fiber glassing and geolocating all over the boat is just way too much!!!! could I do a sample test area with sanding and fairing or using a filling primer, I intend to use Alesseal for my paint materials? I have a 1982 43' Ocean Alexander aft cabin trawler, the cracks are every I look all over the boat.

[@MikeAndreRIch]

If it weren’t for this channel my project would not be where it is! Thanks

[@boatworkstoday]

Thank you :-)!!

[@jpByl]

I had to deal with exactly the same cracks! Sanding down the gelcoat and laying up new csm and finishing it is a lot of work.. I took a different approach which has worked well! Pressure wash/clean the surface thoroughly first. Chips might come flying off; these spots need to be filled obviously. Sand the surface and paint with a well thinned epoxy primer. Smoothen and prime again and finish with a 2comp paint system. So far this has lasted for 4 years and still looks great! Good luck whichever method you choose!

[@blaster-zy7xx]

Thank you. The video recommendation was WAY outside what I was willing to do. Your method is more what I was looking for.

[@gerardburden8498]

Hey I have almost the same cracking all over my 43' 1982 Trawler, the outside really needs new life, I watched Andy's video I also don't want to re glass the whole boat! My question is did you sand first if so what grit for first sanding, then clean and fare? or use a filling primer? I am going to use Alexseal for my paint materials, I have a ton of boat to address so I am going to do it in sections. any recommendations you have would be appreciated.

[@flyingpigforge]

I do like your approach but totally newbie here… chips Filled with gel coat? With wax?

[@davetowz]

Good to see you back into diy coverage!

[@boatworkstoday]

More to come!

[@KeithCarmichaelInFL]

Thank you for this! I am pretty confident in automotive painting/bodywork, but not in marine. Your videos really help me bridge that knowledge gap!

[@Dan-cy4ti]

Thanks Andy. I’ve been following you for years, and I’m glad to see you going, your work is deeply appreciated

[@UrbanOasisMarina]

Great format. Great content (as usual). Thanks for keeping the content coming considering all you have going on.

[@richardhoughton9139]

Unwell or not this is a wonderful instructional video.Thank you 🙏

[@Tony_T.]

Very good information. Thanks

[@livingforsail]

Thanks Andy. Great information here that I will definitely be coming back to on my project!

[@stephenwieczorek8734]

Great video Andy, I’m still struggling with weather or not to paint or gel. My project is not large but it is a whole 18’ boat that I am redoing. Time will tell. Great video!

[@lifeofdave1237]

Iam currently doing the same. Renovation on a Shetland 570 . Not at outside Painting stage yet lol, but contemplating re gel coating.

[@crawford323]

Perfect, I have been waiting for this.

[@jrmrencso8716]

Good information Andy, thank you.

[@markgallagher1376]

Great explanation, Andy. I used Total Tread on my home built skiff. I can’t remember if I put on 2 or 3 coats but after a year of light use it seems to be loosing grip already. I also used Wet edge for the hull and with the humidity here in Florida and we were getting a lot of rain at the time, I would have to wait 3 or 4 days for the paint to cure enough to sand.The paint came out great, but if you’re in a humid area it may take a while to build up coats. I rolled it on very thin as the instructions said.

[@melvinrawlings1457]

Great content. I just love this channel. Much love from Maryland❤❤❤.

[@stevelacher8092]

Love your videos. I don't have a boat, but I am helping my son restore an older car with a fiber glass body. (A 1971 Saab Sonett.) There is not much instruction out there for cars. I just really find your approach helpful and clear. Thanks.

[@rinokentie8653]

Very interesting, thanks!

[@pinnedit]

This is the perfect video! The entire top side of my 88 Wellcraft has this cracking .

[@Heiditelevision]

Great video as always. Just a small nuance if I may -- what product to use to finish off the kind of gelcoat cracking shown here depends on whether the surface is going to be sitting continually (or long term) in water. I am thinking here specifically about boat bottoms, Gelcoat can withstand long term water immersion. Many paints cannot, whether they are one part polyurethene or two part catalyst-type paints (antifouling paint being the exception, of course). The point being....READ THE INSTRUCTIONS for the product you intend to use. I have used one part paints for the bottoms of dinghies with no problems, but those boats are always pulled out of the water after use. Many two part paints warn about long term immersion (even multiple day immersion).

[@rickpyne]

Hi there, I hope your shoulder is on the mend and thanks for your very informative videos. Please keep them coming. With regard to Nonslip finishes, I have always worried about having to sand the grit particles by sanding when repairs have to be made. allot of effort. I have been using sugar crystals to provide the Nonskid texture. Firstly a coat of two-pot then broadcast the sugar while still wet , once hardened another layer of two-pot as top coat. Once thoroughly dried a light sand to knock of the sharp edges of sugar then a thorough wash to get rid of the sugar. This leaves a crater like surface that gives good traction, like little suckers, with no foreign material in the finished surface. Very cheap, easy to repair, and won't wear out your pants. Give it a try I would like to hear your comments....

[@mullholand]

Please make a video on this... I have a Lagoon 440 with tons of areas like this....!!!

[@sailingcacique6343]

Great video as usual, thanks. I think maybe you should mention that you can't use 2 pack paint on top of 1 pack, so if the existing non slip is one pack you have to stick with that. Fair winds.

[@Boscovius]

My '68 Mark Twain is covered in that. Been looking for an answer to how to deal with this for years. I was hoping multiple coats of high build primer would cover that up. Not really looking forward to covering the whole boat in another skin of chopped strand.

[@tonyhull4350]

When younger I spent time racing cars. Paint at 2 feet is different then 20 feet. Worry more about what you are happy with than what your posh friends say. Have a great day

[@countryracer69]

I build race cars. I also grew up in a body shop. I have built beautiful race cars and thought that they looked hideous. Then seen the rich guys cars at the track and realize mine was plenty good enough lol. Now I'm restoring a race boat and rebuilding a crazy jet boat. The little race boat will be perfect up close. The jet will look amazing at 20 feet lol.

[@grayfeed]

Всё по делу , очень интересно слушать!) Спасибо!

[@kellyrafferty7792]

Hello Andy I don't know if my issue is video worthy! But what are you thoughts on liquid transom vs plywood?

[@crawford323]

To Segway off a bit but it is on my mind with my repair of an early McGregor 17 sailboat. The top sides are a mess and the repair you are discussing needs to be done. Also the two hull halve being a top and a bottom with the top lip overlapping the bottom of the hull. This is screwed and the screws hidden by an aluminum strip and inserted within a rubber rub rail. How would the top sides be separated from the bottom hull? I want to do wood and repair on the inside and if I am considering this much repair then the separation of the two halves might be easier in the long haul physically as the boat is not all that large. Was it common to additionally seal a topside overlap or the screws felt sufficient. Am I facing a heat gun with a vibrating multi tool cutter to slide under the lap joint? I do have an overhead crane type lift in my work area to muscle the top section off.

[@boatworkstoday]

all you should need to do is remove the metal strake overtop the rubrail, as well as the vinyl rubrail itself to expose the screws that are securing the deck / hull joint. From there it will likely be a matter of getting creative to break and kind of caulking bond to separate the halves :-)

[@jimr6281]

Great info/video - thanks! I was always told that when gelcoat is applied too thickly that it eventually crazes and cracks. Is that true?

[@boatworkstoday]

It will crack but nothing like this. Far fewer cracks and generally much longer and opened up quite a bit more :-)

[@jimr6281]

Thanks Andy!

[@thomasmascialino7684]

I used wet edge one part paint with soft sand it looks great, but it tends to take a long time to dry. It may cost more for the two part, but it save time . If I had to do it again I would use two part paint.

[@kevinjamescerce]

If u were to use waxed gelcoat over a layer of glass would u still use primer before paint?

[@RBMawby]

Could you please link to a video you must have about how much of the one part vs. two part considerations applies to below the waterline? We need an education for our 1978 C&C 34. TIA. Burke

[@choimdachoim9491]

My 32 year old boat is covered with similar hairline crazing but longer than shown here and is only on all top surfaces that were exposed to sunlight. The sides of the hull have zero crazing. I've been wondering whether to re-gelcoat or paint. I think paint will cover the crazing and be less work.

[@tomaszkaczynski1233]

Could you link the products recommended to handle with cracks as you described in the video please?

[@boatworkstoday]

I'll try and pin a comment with the materials mentioned this afternoon!! Thanks for the suggestion!

[@chrisseidel6347]

awesome! I know chuck

[@steveburton5825]

When I looked at the crazing, I thought that you would be thinking that the layup wasn't quite thick enough because it seemed to me that the topsides were bending and breaking the bond at the corners as a result. The flat areas didn't seem to have the same amount of crazing. Will adding CSM actually do much to beef it up? I'll defer to your experience and expertise but I did see this in a restoration I did a few years ago and I beefed up those areas and saw no crazing return.

[@boatworkstoday]

It's not really a matter of beefing up or making the substrate thicker, more along the lines of removing the compromised material and replacing with new skin to stabilize the surface :-)

[@steveburton5825]

@@boatworkstoday OK, I will defer to your wisdom on this but the J29 was designed to be light so it wouldn't have surprised me if there was a bit of flexing going on there at the roof deck. It's been 10 years since I've sailed on one but I remember thinking that it wasn't nearly as solid feeling as my 1970's boat at the time. Love your channel.

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

That looks like my bathroom ceiling :-) Luckily. it's easier to fix that cracked gelcoat!

[@ATC235]

Where you located. Thanks

[@davidburne9477]

The gel coat with wax additive is often referred to as ‘flowcoat’ isn’t it?

[@Worldviewsandthoughts]

I think new gelcoat is the best. If your going to be sanding anyway to paint fill the just do gel coat.

[@aaronprohaska4117]

Are you talking about putting a new layer of fiberglass over the entire top of the boat that's going to be repainted?

[@jehines3]

On a racing sailboat use KiwiGrip or similar. Better for traction and sails on deck. If you do Sand, your crew will hate you.

[@Cutlass-27-Mallorca]

Please don’t do it the way he said, degrease the surface and wash, sand with p120, rolle on 3 to 4 coats of and epoxy primer like 545 with no thinners, apply by foam roller, this will seal the crack’s, bigger ones, use some filler, sand all the surface p120/p220, apply 3 more coats by spray if posssible, sand with p320/400 and apply 3 @awlgrip gline topcoat roll and tipping and you will be fine for 10 year’s.

[@tomfenn8378]

I have been wondering about using vacuum bagging techniques to fill gel coat cracks before sanding and painting. My thought is based on the method used for impregnating electric motor coils. The wound wire coil is placed in a sealed tank and the air evacuated which creates a vacuum INSIDE a the wire coil. The tank is then flooded with resin, then the vacuum is released on the tank. The vacuum inside the coil sucks in resin completely encapsulating the individual wires inside the coil. It seems to me the same process could be used on a crazed gel coat deck with so like the following procedure: 1. Clean the surface well. 2. Degrease the surface and cracks with a solvent (I acknowledge the contamination inside cracks may be difficult to remove) 3. Vacuum bag the surface. Use a porous distribution fabric to permit a good vacuum under all areas of the bagged area. Connect fill tubes to the vacuum bag system to the resin container 4. Pull a vacuum on the surface 5. Break the vacuum with resin and observe the resin flow into the crack depth. 6. Sand the filled surface and paint as usual. I’m hoping this method would fill the cracks and surface roughness sufficiently to support sanding to a smooth surface; avoiding the need to add Matt or chase -and-fill each crack. This may be a novel method looking for someone with the vacuum equipment to experiment. Cheers. Tom Fenn Yorktown, VA

[@surferdude4420]

I love your videos but I have to disagree with you on the paint over gelcoat part. Only because gelcoat is a lot easier to fix in the long run and will last longer. And if thinned properly using the right materials you can spray gelcoat damn near like paint. To where you just have to hit it with 1000 grit then buff, polish and wax it. Which if you aren’t a painter you’re gonna run it or have orange peel so you’re gonna have to do that process anyways. Just my opinion for doing this work for 17 years now and doing full hull gelcoat resprays every day for the last 2 years including metal flake, pearls and chameleon additives in the gelcoat.

[@markoreilly3414]

Buy once, cry once ! 2k, all the way .

[@crawford323]

Top strand matting? The search on Total Boat is not definitive.

[@boatworkstoday]

CSM = Chopped Strand Matting :-)

[@vintagevintage3804]

Why is it that I've seen cracks indeed, and a friendly face talking and talking for half an hour, but not a single second have I seen ACTUAL FIXING. Baitclick titles again, KZbin most common nightmare, halas... 😭

[@vintagevintage3804]

No offensé intended, speech is Nice. But please, begging, Show real stuff ?

[@boatworkstoday]

I'm on heavy restrictions until surgery next month; not click bait as I've mentioned this several times leading up to this point. For the time being I can explain and answer viewer questions but not allowed to do any demonstrations

[@preferredcustomer8273]

He absolutely has videos fixing checking/ cracks / crazy, from years ago, posted.

[@pumpc00]

nice 20 thousand fix for a 10 thousand boat

[@boatworkstoday]

The materials are not expensive, but it is time consuming. If a person is willing to put in the work this type of project is very approachable ;-)

[@mikem1436]

Sanding, fiberglassing, fairing, more sanding, then painting. This is not going to be a weekend project.

[@boatworkstoday]

Unfortunately not, but it's not expensive or difficult :-)

[@georgewyse8378]

That's not the typical reason for crazing. Crazing is normally caused by incorrectly catalyzed gel coat that is applied too thick. A dry layer of glass against the gel coat doesn't help, but it's not normally the cause. That's a different failure mode and looks different.