Why EVERY Car Needs an Oil Catch Can or Oil/Air Separator - Motive Tech

In this episode of Motive Tech we talk about why an engine needs an oil/air separator and the difference between types and how they really work.
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[@littlejohn-pi7kk]

The new engineering explain channel but coming from practical experience.

[@MotiveVideo]

Will definitely take that aa a compliment 👍

[@SebastianBlix]

was just thinking the same lol

[@wobblysauce]

This... new video to show people, then trying to explain it yourself.

[@joshslater1484]

That guy is good but Motive beat him by leaps and bounds in terms of making the learning enjoyable and not just feel like a lecture. Every aspect is covered, visual demonstrations, easy to understand verbal explanation and experience to back the knowledge. Woo shit yeh Motive.

[@duomaxwell5807]

we'll said 👍👍

[@clint327i]

Just noticed closed captions decided Andrew said "our bees" when he actually said "RBs", lol... I found this tech video very educational, thanks Motive!

[@fullboost]

Great video! Well researched and explained.

[@jacksondyal6823]

really enjoying these types of videos. From an engineering students point of view, the practical sense you bring to these videos makes it incredibly cool to watch!

[@yowie0889]

Good video. The filtration in those "Mishimoto Compact" style catch cans can be much improved by extending the "dirty air in" further downward into the can (eg tap a pipe thread into the inside hole & add a brass fitting), drilling through that alloy baffle plate for the extender piece to go through, then packing steel wool ahead of that small bronze filter so that the air is filtered a lot more on the return journey. A further upgrade (for the longer version of that catch can) is to replace the alloy post with some m6 threaded rod, make a second baffle plate and sandwich some steel wool in the middle section with an air gap at the top just before the bronze filter. Most of the water in the catch can is a product of burning hydrocarbons, not from the ambient humidity. Eg the Hydrogen & Carbon in the fuel burns with Oxygen to make Carbon Dioxide and H2O. See also your exhaust pipe at cold start, your cold saucepan under a gas burner, etc. Burning E85 makes a sh!tload more water vapour in the exhaust (and therefore in the blowby) for whatever reason. Also, "longetivity" is a perfectly cromulent word :p

[@abbusabbus3401]

BBu

[@ptzish]

I was just about to start the build of exactly what you're talking about. Anyone who's seen a bong knows the dirty air needs to enter from the bottom and filter up through the filter media. All of the cans I see have both intake and exhaust at the top or on the side, right beside each other. This will accomplish very little as the air will take the path of least resistance and just bypass the filter media. So what would happen (for conversational purposes) on a brand new GDI car if you just ran a hose from the crank case and dumped it out the bottom of the car? Just let it vent to the open air? Check engine light? Anything? I suppose you would need to cap off the return line back into the intake to prevent an undesired pressure differential in the intake, but aside from that - any issues?

[@altonb93]

And there is generic “mishimoto cans” really cheap that are exactly the same as the mishimoto on amazon or ebay.

[@g.dejong1594]

This will cause to much airflow restrain?

[@yowie0889]

@@g.dejong1594 I've had no problems with that setup. Crank gas still flows through the can.

[@sheep3854]

coffee, and motive, Perfect sunday morning viewing.

[@joshlewis5065]

Saturday evening here on the East Coast

[@RadDadisRad]

Saturday afternoon on the west coast

[@nattsojaqs9822]

Sunday evening......in Canada.

[@nattsojaqs9822]

It's not even the evening. It's afternoon. 🙊

[@BarbecuedPossum]

Brilliant video - I run 2 Evo time attack cars, and one of them on boost is having really high pressure in the head to the point where it can blow the dispstick out. This better understanding of how the catch can/oil air separators are working and the pcv system will help greatly when choosing what to get and how to solve it. Cheers man!

[@ericn7698]

Isn't blowing out the dipstick more indicative of a pressurised crankcase than head? Genuine question.

[@BarbecuedPossum]

@@ericn7698 That is pretty much explained @ 1:12 in the video - it's the same pressure in that starts in crank case andd goes to the head from what I understand. Pretty sure evo's have extra breathers to get it back to head so main issue is then getting rid of it from there

[@AmirPomen]

@@BarbecuedPossum a high boost engine application, there is common big breather pipe mod on evo valve cover.. (atleast is common mod even on street car where i live) stock pcv system were deleted alltogether and replaced with direct bigger open breather system

[@paladain55]

Yup. All this means is your ventilation holes are too small. You have a lot of extra blow by and your two pcv vents aren't keeping up. Tap a pressure gauge on the oil cap and make the two holes bigger.

[@natez0690]

I’d check for cylinder bore roundness, cylinder bore finish, and excessive piston to wall clearance to get a better ring seal. Attack the problem at the source. Watch Total Seal’s videos about ring seal soup. Consider new gas ported rings at your next rebuild.

[@mikewilliams6390]

Key point. Make sure your catch can allows your engine /pcv system to breathe as well as it did without it. Otherwise you'll have worse problems to deal with..

[@brettnoakes3800]

Great vid 85% of what you said is correct other than the main issue of not actually adressing and reducing blow by. eg do and donts with plumbing, t peices between rocker covers and to think of direction of hose routing. Other options as having an air seperator with drain back that then vents to a catch can. Or externnal oil pumps and dry sumps. One simple method to reduce condensation on e85 or methanol is the have the cap off whike the car is warming up. but advising people to to just keep going bigger and bigger if they keep filling the can has to be the worst advice as they will come to a point with insufficent oil in the sump and lead to engine failures that people try to blame on bad oil pumps etc.

[@copperkeyracing6167]

I'm glad someone said it. Thx so much. I was thinking it might be the most liked post, and at the top... but, oh well. Thx again!

[@garyvanremortel5218]

Precisely. The only reason they are not OEM is because owners would be too lazy to drain it.

[@thromboid]

Of course, it's not just pressure and oil mist in the crankcase that are bad - regardless of the fuel type, the blow-by gases contain water from the combustion process and potentially unburnt fuel, neither of which are things you want hanging around in your crankcase and getting into the oil.

[@johnolasau652]

Awesome video as usual! Personally I have the return to sump setup on my GTR however I have a line at the highest point of my sump “breathing” back to the highest point on my separator and a second line also just for draining the oil so 2 lines off the sump in total. After making that change I’ve never had any issues. People don’t understand that it doesn’t matter how many drains you put or how much you enlarge the returns, if you always have pressure in the case it will never allow it to drain properly due to pressure. Looking forward to more videos!

[@Turbo_Tractors]

How good is this channel these days...

[@Rickie-37]

recently had a sort of runaway diesel which ended in motor grenading... customer's car went into limp mode, no boost, and she decided to try putting a 5L jug of 5w20 thinking that might fix it.... without knowing the full story and that it's been in limp mode for weeks, I scanned it, replaced a part, and went on a test drive. The excess amounts of overly thin oil has led to so much blowby that the intercooler must have been filled with oil. But with no boost for weeks, the oil naturally remained in the intercooler which was mounted really low. Once I got into second gear and rolled onto the throttle, boost kicked in, pushed the oil up and into the motor, tach needle jumped to the stopper at the end of redline, smoke cloud behind me, and nothing I did was able to bring the rpm down one bit. Went on for about 15 seconds and the motor began to loose compression which finally killed the motor Stupid scenario that I would've never expected to happen

[@Javierm0n0]

i've read a few articles on catch cans and the need for them but this video yall put together provided the clearest explanation for what and why. Thanks.

[@surreallife777]

It takes a lot of knowledge and intelligence to be a master mechanic, especially if you’re building high-performance cars. Great video.

[@eagle5720]

This video is very informative, thanks for explanation, now I know what I should put on my small block chevy 383 in my boat.

[@PANTYEATR1]

I've recently hurt my Ford racing 427 due to inadequate PCV. I had the PCV system from my 302 on my 427. I had every symptom of a bad PCV happen including oil getting into my standalone computer through the MAP sensor line and dripping on the carpet in the interior. I have at least 2 cylinders with what i suspect are broken piston rings and some cylinders with lifter ticking. This conclusion was from both compression and leak down tests. Now i have to take the engine totally apart and see what happened. I will be running a catch-can that connects to both valve covers and intake tube.

[@morrischoo9960]

Any restriction will reduce compression ring seal to the bottom of the top ring land. A leak down should be done if any sizable amount of blow by material is in the separator. Gas ported pistons in dragsters are an example of needed ring seal improvements in supercharged engines and motors. I use a large non bronze baffled unit in my street car with a homemade vertical baffle and drilled extension tube in it. Less blowby is a result of less restriction. More sediment or catched material can be a result of less efficiency in the can or bottle from actually restricting the vacuum that the engine case needs for ring seal.

[@robertjackson7590]

Try running a Total Seal Ring on the second compression ring, the Diesels are doing this with great result controlling blowby and they run high BMEP.

[@camver100]

This segment is genius. Massive gap in the market for race/performance spec mods. Some extra things may be: AN lines/fittings, best types of mounting bolts/tips for anything like body kits/splitters,

[@johndicky4651]

Great work mate, keep me coming, best enthusiast vids online period..

[@manitoublack]

With sump returns, I run mine below the sump oil level (near the bottom.) then oil works as a 1-way valve (simple U-Tube ;) ) With circuit cars that aren't dry sump'd. sump returns are an absolute must. DON't want to pump the sump dry....!!! Great video :)

[@paulboon1100]

I've put two oil/air seperators on my petrol/gas 6 cylinder car, one for each vent. What I find is that my oil stays a lot cleaner for much longer, its done about 8500km on the last oil change and its still hard to see on the dipstick! Before the cans it didn't take 4000km to get dark. Inlet manifold and carb are both super clean. The motor, by the way, has done 675.000 km. On the one that goes back to the inlet before carb it gathers a lot of water, especially on short trips on LPG.

[@shanevonharten3100]

Move the rocker cover outlet forward, all the oil rushing to the rear of the cover no longer has access to the outlet

[@gerardohernandez8901]

I think a better idea it’s just set up baffles or gullies inside the valve covers this way more cleaner. Air is coming out of the valve cover and possibly most of the oil is dropping back into the head. I don’t know what do you think?

[@bensemple8141]

Regarding sizing if you are doing track events: Motorsport Australia (CAMS) schedule b: "if fitted with any crankcase breather discharging to the atmosphere, each breather be vented into a catch tank of minimum capacity of two litres for engines up to 2000cc or three litres for over 2000cc. Regulations for competitions on unsealed surfaces may waive this requirement;"

[@michaelparker6412]

Also they are better placed on the intake side so if they do overflow they dont spray oil on the hot exhaust

[@TheWarewolf79]

I like those instructional videos, and I especially like the comparison between an oil catch can and an oil/air separator...Now, you compared both and mentioned that both are trying to do the same thing, yet gave a disadvantage for the catch can due to the obvious reason of course (illegal due to emmisions), I get that...second disadvantage you mentioned is that catch can is not going to catch all oil and some of the oil vapor/mist will come out of filter and into engine...I would also argue that just like a catch can, an oil separator is NOT going to separate ALL oil from air before going back into intake...So, my main point I am trying to make here is, why return to intake at all if both options are not going to fully isolate/speparate/collect oil?? Which will bring us back to where we started in the first place, having oil residue inside intake/manifold/intercoolers (not as much of course as before having either option), which will in turn lower octane rating, dilute air/fuel mixture, retard timing and eventually having less power. Me personally, I would just NOT recirculate through intake/manifold all together, and just go with a baffled/filtered/vented catch can, run the PCV line into it, and finally of course, cap/block off the intake/manifold inlet where PCV outlet used to goes into. What do you guys think?? Cheers.

[@GTRliffe]

you have one line from catch can to your exhaust (t junction) this creates a vacuum at high rpm-that vacuum creates negative pressure for the catch can fumes and helps the engine breath

[@JD_82]

This is the best video about catch cans out there! Very informative 👍

[@sixspeeddeath]

If I've learned anything from this video, it's that we need more intercoolers in this world to pull the hate out of the air.

[@copperkeyracing6167]

There is plenty of hate on the internet. Figure out how to pull the hate out of the internet, and you might be a genius!

[@griplimit]

I have one of those oil/air separators (that size actually) between my PCV and intake plenum on my SR and I works perfectly, I drain it every oil change and it never completely fills up.

[@antonamalfi]

This is a brilliant explanation

[@Andrew260RS]

What a tech nugget!!! Love your work Andrew!

[@Erick_The_Green]

I need this for my 2.4l eco tec in my Buick Verano... I took the air intake hose/manifold thingy off and saw all the crud built up in the throttle body, and saw the oil residue in the manifold. I also see oil residue under the PVC out that goes from the valve cover to the air intake manifold i took off. It burns like a half a quart every 2 weeks if i drive alot. I wish I could catch that oil and dump it back in. LOL

[@TheGinger1]

More like this please. Great videos, I'm learning so much.

[@Rational_thinker_212]

One of us is a bit confused. Seems to me you have the blow-by flow reversed. The vacuum used by a positive crankcase ventalation system is produced between the carb or the throttlel body pulling fresh filterer air in from the tube behind the air cleaner or in the old days, a filtered oil filler cap on the oppsite end of the valve cover or oppsite bank of a V type engine. The PVC valve limits the flow in hi vacuum situations as to not cause too much of a vacuum leak but enough to pull the fresh clean air through the system and back into the intake manifold and in turn the combultion chamber. You can't "vent" a catch can installed between the PVC valve and intake manafold. I would cause a vacuum leak and break the system vacuum and stop all flow.

[@ahmadmariri]

i wish you can make a video on how to make a high boost and low boost controlled by a switch like you had in your r32..and what boost controller should be used ..i am pretty sure alot of people would like to know this information ..thank you

[@darrellroireau4061]

Perfect explanation thanks!

[@ptbruiser2243]

Every year since 2004 I have serviced my car and have never seen any oil on my throttle body or inlet of the turbocharger. Even went and removed the intercooler and no oil. I am not doubting these things work but i'm not sold on one

[@robrath31]

Straight up love these videos, just perfect, keep em comin'! Quality knowledge, need more good info out there these days as so much bad info around, thanks!

[@copperkeyracing6167]

Some catch cans simply have one line coming from the crankcase to the can and then use a small breather filter to allow pressure to vent out of the top of the can. The longer these vapors stay in the crankcase, the more likely they will condense, causing damage to internal engine components and thinning the oil. You need vacuum to pull that out. If you pull out the condensation you don't want that moisture, so throw it away. Don't go and defeat the purpose by pouring back into the engine.

[@MotiveVideo]

Watch the video again mate. Your logic is what we sued to think until we learned.

[@copperkeyracing6167]

@@MotiveVideo Thx for the reply. I'll stay open minded. Love your videos. Hello, and goodbye from Austin TX.

[@copperkeyracing6167]

@@MotiveVideo ​ I'm an Engineer in the USA, and you're an Engineer in Australia. I hope you'd be willing to work with me on this. Lets see if we can be open minded, and learn something. One Scientist to another. I might be the only one learning something, and that's great. I think there is two things to study, first thing to study is how a PCV system works, second is to study about condensation. Condensation is the easy one, so lets start there. " Condensation occurs when warm air collides with cold surfaces, or when there's too much humidity in a closed area. When this moisture-packed warm air comes in contact with a chilly surface, it cools down quickly and releases the water, which turns into liquid droplets on the cold surface." taken from envirovent dutcom, found doing a google search for "what causes condensation" I think we can agree that in the case of an engine that has sat for a while, atmosphere/air is inside the engine, just as you have outside. Therefore, this air has moisture in it, and when the air is heated, that moisture wants to stick to something cooler than the heated air. This might be the inside of the top of the rocker/cam/valve cover, maybe the oil pan, or really any wall inside the crank case. Moisture packed warm air is in there, and as it comes in contact with a cooler surface it release the water as it cools down quickly. Moisture comes from the air, the air that is inside the same closed area, and it collects on a surface also on the inside. Next the PCV system. "The PCV system consists of the PCV valve, grommet, tube, and air supply hose to the crankcase. Check around these fitting for any signs of oil. Everything must be tight. Oil leakage indicates a problem with the system. The PCV valve is closed at low RPM's to prevent vacuum leak and engine misfire. When open the PCV valve allows the flow of crankcase gases. The PCV valve is located on the valve cover of most engines. Combustion gases are forced past the piston rings and into the engines crankcase. A drop in intake manifold vacuum occurs when the engine is accelerated. When the intake manifold vacuum is low, a light spring holds the PCV valve in its open position. The open valve results in maximum crankcase ventilation. Conversely, when the engine is idle, a high intake manifold vacuum pulls the valve upward, blocking the port to the intake manifold. A stuck closed PCV valve results in excessive crankcase pressure. It forces oil past the engine's seals and gaskets. A stuck open PCV valve or leaking hose results in a large vacuum leak, a rough idle, and drivability issues like surging. A closed or tarnished PCV valve can cause engine oil to back up into the breather. Most PCV valves contain a light spring and should rattle when shaken. If the valve doesn't rattle, its clogged and needs replacement. At idle, with the PCV valve removed from the valve cover, there should be an engine vacuum at the PCV valve inlet. Placing your thumb over the leaking valve should plug the vacuum leak. The PCV system regulates crankcase pressure and ventilates gas fumes from the crankcase into the intake manifold. This system protects the engine oil from premature contamination. It also circulates blowby gases into the intake manifold for combustion." taken from FreeASEstudyGuides dutcom, found doing a search for "what happens when a pcv valve is stuck open." ASE is short for the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence which Mechanics in the USA use to show proficiency. AKA if you are a mechanic in the USA and you are ASE certified, you get paid more, and you might only get the job if you have that. So far so good? Any thoughts? My thoughts are about how the PCV valve isn't just a 1-way valve, but rather it is 1-way with light vacuum/part throttle, but dead stops at high vacuum at idle. Under boost [and if attached between the crankcase and inlet/intake manifold], opposite direction of the 1-way, it is also a dead stop. I was thinking it was just a 1-way valve, but no, it's more than that. Agree? Disagree? So far so good? When the moisture in the air condenses into a liquid, what should we do with it? Back to oil sump or should be collect it to later dump it? Or are we jumping the gun, and not enough info yet? What's missing if so? Anything we should add?

[@copperkeyracing6167]

@@MotiveVideo I want to add something...This is trivial, but sometimes back to basics is a good thing... If you heat up and boil water, what happens if you leave it boiling for too long? The water disappears from the pot/container. It turns to vapor, or a gas. Water turns to gas at a high temperature. It's called a boiling point. What happens when you cool a gas? A gas turns to liquid. This is called the condensation point. Boiling point, condensation point. Turns a liquid to a gas, and a gas back to a liquid. Can you think of a scenario where this will happen repeatedly to the internal chambers of an engine (aka crankcase)? Could this become worse over time, from repeated warm ups and cool downs? Is it a sealed system that won't ever add more moisture over time? If it doesn't ever get worse, then no issues, right? What if it isn't a sealed system and it can accumulate more moisture over time? Is that bad? I don't know... thoughts?

[@copperkeyracing6167]

@@MotiveVideo Here's another interesting read/thought. According to an Article on the history of the PCV, "In 1967... PCV quickly became standard equipment on all vehicles worldwide because of its benefits not in in emissions reduction but also in engine internal cleanliness and oil lifespan." From what I'm reading, and understanding, PCV is actually good for keeping the engine internals clean and longer life. Engines definitely run better when clean, especially when you think about the carbon buildup on direct injection boosted engines. Here's another thought. As I mentioned in the last comment, the PCV valve is suppose to shut the connection from the intake manifold to the crankcase under boost. If you have no PCV valve in place between the manifold and the crankcase, and you have a catch can connected directly from the old PCV port and breather port, then the crankcase pressures only have one way to go, and that is to the oil catch can... THUS, if you have a ton of blowby, that is the reason why your oil catch can will fill up to the max going down the dragstrip for those 9sec, in your decently quick car. Can that blowby be reduced somehow? We have 3 scenarios: idle: No connection between manifold and pcv valve needed, seal manifold shut part throttle, no boost: we need vacuum pulling contaminants out of the crankcase, need an oil catch can, and a vacuum source, although not part of the operation of a drag car full throttle, boost: No connection needed between manifold and pcv valve needed, seal mani shut Here's where it gets interesting, the full throttle, boost. Under boost, positive pressure from the manifold to the pcv valve, it will shut down. BUT, if there is sufficient blowby pressure, and you have the pcv valve in place connected to the intake manifold, then the pressures in the crankcase may indeed build up past the pressure in the manifold, and it may indeed open the PCV valve. Which of course may also allow contaminants in manifold, and then the combustion chamber. So, even though it sounds like under boost, the PCV valve connection to manifold is not needed/used, it actually is. At least, I think so. The last thought I have... How bad are these contaminants? Has there actually been a study on how much it will deteriorate the octane? Water doesn't deteriorate octane, its actually the opposite, it will cool the charge, and reduce the chance of detonation. The oil will deteriorate the octane. Are both combined really that detrimental? Obviously, for a street car... what we want is that cleanliness and longer life, but what we don't want is those contaminants harming our octane or our intercooler efficiency. How can both be implemented is the question? It sounds like a properly setup oil catch can is the answer, and incorporating the PCV valve and system already in place. The harm to the octane is the same argument with the drag car. How much is it really hurting? The oil that is in the intercooler is not getting cooked like it would in the combustion chamber, and with air flowing over it, it would just push it aside and pool at the bottom, so not really a big issue, but how big is it really? Is cleaning the intercooler periodically enough? Lastly, placing a catch can(s) within the PCV system... will that hurt the systems balance due to the catch cans reducing the vacuum/response of the system? As for cleaning the combustion chamber & valves of the carbon buildup in a direct injection (or really any) engine... That's easy, run a bottle of seafoam cleaner through the engine (lookup how to use seafoam through the induction system). I run one bottle of cleaner through the induction system (which runs through the manifold and intake valves) at the same interval/time as when I do an oil change. Every 3k miles. If you don't do this maintenance, over time, this will build up and deteriorate the flow of air, and cause excessive knock... which you might confuse for decreased octane, which is not the same thing. So far, I'm thinking, if it's a drag car, why not, throw in an oil catch can or two between the connections of the PCV system to remove the contaminants, just for safe measure, as you don't want excessive blowby all over your engine bay, like that decently quick 9sec car has. For a street car, I'm not convinced one way or the other, yet. I'm definitely an advocate for doing routine cleaning of the combustion chamber and intake valves... on any car, street or drag. Please help, if you have the answer, any thoughts, or input.

[@ifgezroxy]

Love that you share your years of experience with fast and racecars with everyone. You filter out the bullshit, and share tried and true facts and methods. :)

[@MotiveVideo]

Thats what were trying to do. Theory is great but we like to use what weve experienced as examples

[@bowley4]

“Only doing it for 9 seconds… if you’ve got a decent GTR….” Lololol amazing

[@BulliKid]

One of the best video on KZbin explaining all the possible set ups. Thanks Can i use a stock PCV system with just a check valve so during boost there is no chance i pressurizes the crankcase but does a great job bringing crankcase vapors back to the engine under idle?

[@TheArchetypeGamer]

Check out Tracy lewis performance and his catch can system work with check valves before and after the throttle body so it's always sucking pressure from the crankcase to the catch can.

[@mr34]

Best explanation I have seen yet, well done!👍👊

[@css172]

I love these videos, thanks Andrew you explain things so well 👍

[@ThomasFG]

Good quality oil, sadly there's very few ones out there. I've fitted a baffled oil/air seperator to my cars, working a treat so far. Looks factory too. Thinking all that s**t was going back through my intake manifold, etc just made me sick. Cars should have oil/air seperators factory, but then things wouldn't cake up with carbon, etc thus less profit in the workshop. Shell Helix Ultra (really good stuff), being made of primarily natural gas, it's a cleaner product with less impurities over a group 3 mineral refined into a synthetic oil. E.g Penrite, Nulon, etc Penrite oils are great don't get me wrong, it's my go to for most of my lubricants, but i get better results in terms of oil life, protection, etc. I've sent off 3 samples of each and Shell comes out on top from Blackstone test results. Penrite HPR5 5w40 & Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 were the two i trust.

[@747Mode]

Be handy to pull a vacuum from the exhaust n send the vapours out there

[@alundrasrt]

Something is wrong: in factory settings the blowby uses the shortest hoses length setup (best vacuum+pcv). By adding a longer hose+oil can, you add restriction on the mixture flow, poor air return and retarding the problem. The best is to add more air exit from sump to the breather. The return you made just equilbrate quicker the pressures up and down. The smoke from the exhaust at 22:33 is actually too much pressure still there, canceled by vented it. Sorry for my english, I'm french. Thanks.

[@Everything-hilarious]

Great video. Both of those are oil catch cans ones vented ones not. For people who know the difference that is easily spotted

[@chiphill4856]

Best explanation I've found on this subject! Thx!

[@thinlycut]

Really good, informative video Andrew. Thanks heaps!

[@ryubiggie]

I see you guys snuck a picture of the Mazda MX-6 GT throttle body in there! It's the little things!

[@206RacingTeam]

Wooow, like an action movie it was. Great explanation! Thank you! Have the same problems and your explanaitions, made me to calm down and find solutions. Great, again!

[@esc5060]

my crankcase breather is on the block not the head, its a stupid design because it has a big plastic box attached to the block that condenses the water in the air inside it so the breather gets clogged with an oil water sludge

[@karlmuschek9468]

Awesome vid as usual mate 👌👌👌 Keep it up

[@gabrielmarin4593]

I have a question about plumbing. This is the first time ive seen someone make a diagram showing both the crankcase vent and pcv valve being routed into the same can/separator. I have only seen something similar when people remove the pcv valve and weld on -10AN fittings and run lines from each valve cover into a catch can that vents to atmosphere. I have a stock ‘95 toyota tercel (starlet) as a daily and it has a naturally aspirated 1.5L engine (5EFE). The stock ventilation system is laid out exactly as you have drawn it in the stock naturally aspirated example (pcv valve has hose going to manifold and crankcase vent/breather has hose going to intake tube). I recently rebuilt the head and decided the best to keep things clean in there now that it’s like new was to install an oil/air separator exactly like the one in this video except mine is a 3-port (2 in, 1 out). I dont want to vent to atmosphere because of the smell, legality, fire hazard, and messiness. I intend to keep the engine bay very clean. I’ve seen many people run dual cans (1 for pcv and another for breather/crankcase vent) and have them return to their stock respective locations (manifold and intake tube) unlike in this video where both go into the same can and return to the same place. I attempted to install mine this way and return to manifold vacuum and got a horrible howling noise that sounded like the baffles in the valve cover or air/oil separator were creating resonance, but i had a vacuum leak so it could be that. My question was is there any problem with me running both of those back into manifold vacuum or do i have to plumb them into the intake tube or do i just have to run 2 separate 2 port cans? I have also been told the purpose of the breather is for fresh clean air from the intake tube to enter the engine because the manifold vacuum in the pcv valve is creating a vacuum in the engine so plumbing both to manifold vacuum would be a mistake but I’ve also heard that manifold vacuum will never be strong enough through the pcv valve to cause the whole crankcase to run into vacuum. Not sure what to believe or what the ideal way to plumb the system is. Sorry for the long-winded question plz help

[@DigitalFl0w]

are those raceworks catch cans baffled? Awesome video as always

[@MotiveVideo]

Sure are

[@ToughGarage]

This came in real handy as im just about to purchase a catch can for my project car. Thanks mate

[@MrDOHC1JZ]

You know you have a high powered RB when the catch can holds more than the sump.

[@D3RPZILLA]

Great video, thank you! Just installing an Elite Engineering dual valve catch can onto my 2021 Camaro ZL1.. def feel like it's an important mod!

[@regulatorct]

love this knowledge dump. Thank you!

[@TheStringAssassin]

Ok 2 part question... With the oil separator on a turbo charged gdi, you have 2 lines into the separator and the return (out) is going to the air intake (before the turbo). A) why return to the intake instead of the throttle body, or does it matter where the return air vents? B) if the separator has one inlet instead of two, can both lines be tee'd together before entering the separator? In my opinion I'd tee the lines together before the separator inlet and return to the throttle body and plug the air intake connector to avoid getting any remaining gasses in the turbo/ intercooler. I may be overthinking it but what should I do?

[@elmoz122]

You guys should do the ultimate engine build, making an boosted VQvhr last

[@Ren200Z_MotoringLife]

great info and tryed and true confirmation .. iam also been pushing my cars if they dont need to be on till warm up.

[@DahkaShades]

Does this work for stock cars like small 1.8ltr n/a engines?

[@g____-590]

Move Your rocker cover outlet to centre.

[@wadeerasmus7464]

I went through that crap. Pressure build up blew off the pipes and it was a mess

[@richardford5794]

Awesome explanations hopefully more people will understand now👍

[@toddbowers5673]

Well spoke...thanks for the knowledge dump!

[@TJSpartan008]

Any chance you could do one of these for heat wrap/ shielding or just overall heat management? Been learning a ton from these and I love it!

[@markireland5501]

Thoughts on baffling the valve covers to help reduce oil being pushed out? Much like what Mines, Hi Octane etc did

[@troyvantrienen9418]

That’s what is fitted in the cam covers. The Hi-Octane baffles are very similar to the mines products.

[@markireland5501]

@@troyvantrienen9418 thought its something worth touching on if Andrew does any type of follow on video from this. Replicated the Mines/Hi Octane baffle in my own 4AGE

[@simongoode7812]

I've always enjoyed & been interested in the channel but the new style of updates, projects, WTF & in-depth information is EVERYTHING that I want in one place!!! 🤓👌🏻 This episode cleared up loads of confusion I had previously about this topic on breathing & the PCV... However, I have a vent to atmosphere (non return to sump) catch can system on my R33 GTST and although I believe it to be a healthy engine & currently only 354bhp it never really appears to fill up... Could this be a sign of any issues in the can or just that it's a low power level ATM? It is a sealed unit, so I can only tell by the sight gauge. It's a daily driver & has never lost a drop of oil 😉🤞🏻 lol

[@BIGGELATO]

This is why I don't have a wife nor kids... my cars are more than enough responsibilities. I love them to death 💛

[@jarodchand8717]

Holy shit, I had the exact same issues on my RB20DET TODAY!!, it was smoking like crazy suspecting me to think it was the head gasket blown. But in the end it was the old catch can. Unfortunately I had used a Greddy catch can that did not use a filter on it for ventilation, Basically pressurizing my entire motor, once i had unplumbed the AN hoses from the catch can it stopped blowing by so much smoke from the exhaust, I can't stress this enough as you did in this video, but please if you guys are looking into a oil catch can get one that is a decent brand and has a air filter for ventilation. As said in this video RB's have heaps of crank case pressure! Thank you so much for this video explaining everything though.

[@emilesiers-jamieson7783]

I did the exact same thing on my rb25det s13 hahaha thought I'd blown it

[@Typhon888]

Wow what a video. Thank you.

[@johniatrides1203]

What about oil sump venting?

[@oistein74]

E85 causes condensation? It's a very dry fuel that attract moisture....

[@Kryptonite_gtr]

Thank you for that Video. On point!!!

[@natez0690]

The real question may be, why do you have so much blow-by. Watch the TotalSeal videos about their gas ported rings and how it changed the blow by in the engine. I really appreciate the knowledge about E-85 as well! Makes me think that E85 really isn’t worth the oil contamination on a naturally aspirated setup!

[@MotiveVideo]

E85 is always worth it

[@copperkeyracing6167]

E85 is pointless on a naturally aspirated setup unless you are over 12.5:1 compression. Under that compression, the power is not timing limited... which means, you can push the timing all you want and won't get more power... then, eventually you will get knock, and decide "lets pull timing back all the way to where it just made the most power," and it might be 8degress back. Then, you switch back to 98ron (93ron+mon/2 in the US), and realize, there was no difference in power, since those extra 8degrees was null and void and only allowed with E85 anyway.

[@dragpix]

Awesome video, I have the same oil/air separator you have in the video. I was worried about returning to sump and contamination but as you mentioned.. it's already in there in the first place. I'll be running the return tomorrow to my sump :)

[@LIFEISAHUSTLE1]

Fantastic Video! Thank you

[@JimmyLLL]

What about the PCV valve, are you deleting that?

[@diychad7268]

Isn't the main reason though why you get water with e85 is because of the whole aspect of alcohol attracting moisture

[@plumbbuild6517]

What’s a really good oil treatment that cleans carbon off the piston rings , a good one that you put into your oil for awhile before changing your oil and then another that you leave in the new oil .

[@plumbbuild6517]

By the way the engine I’m wanting cleaned up is 2016 6.7 power stroke thanks for any suggestions

[@doublehelix109]

NNOOOOOOOOOOOOOO bring back the other intro!! was one of the sikkest intos on the medias!!!

[@ahmadmariri]

great video always learning from you..........

[@Diftonez]

Really good explanation! Respect!

[@toddrhine7648]

Hi, I just subscribed to your channel such a great informative video! I have a stock 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6 4.0 w/ 200k on it. What would be your opinion on what should be best for my application. Thx so much for your time & effort for helping me.

[@guyorton2476]

Great video and well explained, keep it up 👍🏼

[@catfish500mark9]

What is everyone supposed to do when they freeze solid during the winter and now there's no way of draining them.And whats double bad is they produce upwards ofb3 times the amount of gunk during cold temps.

[@Palpac]

Why not custom mount the breather tube at the front of the rb26 so oil doesn't slosh back into it

[@MotiveVideo]

Honestly, people don't for looks. Plus baffles breathe to front then back

[@ryanlowe3588]

Yep... just emailed Golaby’s to get something for mine right away!!!

[@CaseAgainstFaith1]

You have the definitions of air/oil separator vs catch-can incorrect. You mentioned the pros & cons of having the oil return to the sump. It is an air/oil separator (AOS) if you have the oil return to sump. It is a catch-can if you manually drain it. Either a catch-can or an AOS can be configured VTA (vent to atmosphere) or recirculate.

[@yipe222]

Some racers use a vacuum pump connected to the crankcase. Wouldn't that eliminate the need for a catch can and pickup a few ponies?

[@miatafan]

Do you have a video on the design of the baffles in the large catch cans?

[@BulliKid]

Can you just put fittings into the head and run a hose under the car to drain on the street. I know it’s a problem in the track and not environment friendly. But it’s maintenance free and has no restrictions. Also where do you see more pressure. In the crankcase or towards the top of the head in valve cover?? I’m having smoking issues (white smoke) on start up after 2-5 mins of idle. Goes 90% away when warmed up. Turbo seals or valve seals? Thank you for the video and I love your channel. Cheers from USA

[@copperkeyracing6167]

valve seals

[@BulliKid]

@@copperkeyracing6167 it ended up being a blown turbine seal

[@user-pwfus]

Very detailed information well said smart man. Bless up