Moto Guzzi Le Mans 1000 Oil Change

[@MikesMachines]

*NOTE - In regards to ZDDP (zinc) oil additives, I just wanted to clarify that not all oils need them. Oils designed for older flat tappet engines may have this type of additive in them. The difficulty seems to be determining how much has been added. Many brands don't list the amount. According to Bill Finnegan you need at least 1500ppm for it to be effective but no more than 2400ppm. The difficulty is determining the amount to add to oils that contain some ZDDP. Now Penrite MC4ST 20W-50 V-Twin does list the ZDDP content at +1800ppm so it obviously doesn't need an additive.

[@erwinroman4217]

I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil that has the zinc additive in my '86 LeMans IV. Looking at Valvoline's spec sheets, its 1400ppm so close to what Finnegan recommends.

[@juans3728]

I totally love your method of changing the oil, lowering and raising of the sump to make the maintenance easier.

[@aitorsanchez5549]

Awesome video,thanks from Spain Mike!.

[@lewsoltis5142]

Well done, sir! Thank you for the great video. I'm doing my first oil change on a 2004 MG Cali EV and found your video to be very instructive.

[@lupo631]

Very good video. Some hints: a) check the coarse filter with sieve if there are some particles, I didn't see it in the video b) always use a torque wrench because of the aluminium body of the Moto Guzzi, you can easily damage the threads, torque for M6 x 55 mm is 10 Nm, oil drain plug 50 Nm, filter 15 Nm. c) ZDDP (Zincdithiophosphate or Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates) is not neccessary. It is an EP additive (extreme pressure) to prevent abrasive metal contact. Oils of our time have a lot more additives as in former times used. Greetings Lupo (Germany)

[@MikesMachines]

I did mention checking the screen pre filter but didn't show it in the video. In regards to using a torque wrench, I guess I'm a bit old school and don't use one for everything. Still, using one on these bolts is good advice! In regards to the ZDDP. I'm following the advice of Bill Finnegan who has been building race and performance Guzzi engines for 50 years. His experience is that using a zinc additive will extend the life of the cam followers. Thanks for your input, it's much appreciated!

[@lupo631]

Hi Mike, Thank your for your quick response. My English is not so good and I didn't pay attention, sorry, Yes, I'm old school , too, but had bad experiences with damaged bolts and threads by the pre-owner of my Mille GT not only at the oil sump pan. On the other hand I want the same tighening torque, because the sealing surface of the oil pan is big. Doing not so I had some leackage. Yes, Bill is right. I don't know the composition of the oils you get in Australia. In Germany the oils are highly filled with additives. In the 70's typicals oils have approx. 5 % additives, now you find 10-15 % additives. ZDDP is one of them. So may be it is neccessary to add it. But be careful: The additives are well coordinated by the manufacturer. Changing the composition can have negative effects. My teacher at the university always said: Mixing of additives is black magic! But when Bill gives you that advices with his experience he will be right. Thank you for your videos. Despite I'm old I find some hints to improve my mechnical skills! Best tip is changing the air filter via battery holder and not to do like the maintenance book recommend. Also best greetings from a friend of mine who has four Moto Guzzi's. Lupo

[@texanbill6032]

Lack of Zinc and Phosphorus is a real issue for those of us who also have classic cars in the family. Running modern oils in a sb Chevy can destroy the cam in only a few thousand miles. Most motorcycle specific oils have ample Zinc and Phosphorus, but those advertised for “v twins”, “ATVs”, and “Racing” tend to have more than average. Oils marked JASO MA (vs MA2) have a *little* bit more as they were not designed for use in motorcycles with cats. Mobile 1 Vtwin 15w50 has around 1800ppm zinc, and 1600 phosphate. Castrol Power RS Vtwin 20w50 is what I use and it has around 1800ppm zinc. I would also recommend using a hose clamp around your filter to keep it from backing off. It’s not super common, but it has been known to happen in Guzzi’s and BMW’s with sump mounted filters. Ride safe! (1986 LM 1000)

[@GixxerZilla]

Awesome videos, thanks Mike

[@Crisetig]

Hello, I am just doing the oil change on my 1980 G5. Unfortunaltely, the bike has only a side stand so I can't use a jack. Great Video! Greetings from France

[@mariobondanza5149]

Great video, Mike. As usual. Thank you. Personally I would have spent a couple of minutes filling the filter with oil, in order to reduce the amount of time that the engine waits for the oil in pressure to reach each element needing lubrication. Clearly the filter is going to be mounted upside down, but in any case there will be less empty volume to be filled with oil in the whole circuit. What do you think?

[@MikesMachines]

I've never tried that with a Guzzi. You'd have to do it upside down to prevent the oil escaping when you screwed on the filter. The Le Mans has a very small filter so the oil pressure doesn't take that long to come up on a first start anyway. Still, it might be worth giving a go next time!

[@johnh2413]

Hi Mike, I own a 1987 Le Mans 1000. I am a novice hobbyist who wants to do a lot myself. Your videos and explanations are very helpful !! Thank you very much! I live in the Netherlands where the range of oil and parts is slightly different. I am in doubt about switching to Duckham's 20w50 mineral oil with zinc additive allready in it for older engines. I only drive the le mans when its 'warm' weather and 20 celcius or higher, and I replace the oil annually. What is your thought about using this famous green oil? Unfortunately there is very little explanation online about the universal joint of Guzzi. Maybe you have any tips or explanations about checking / maintaining / replacing the universal joint? Greeting John

[@MikesMachines]

The advice I've been given by Bill Finnegan is to use a synthetic 20w50 (or 15w50) if possible with added ZDDP of between 1500 -1800ppm for best results. According to Bill, the Zinc additive found in some oils today isn't as effective as the original ZDDP because of EPA requirements. Still, there some controversy in this area as other experts recommend just using a full synthetic. In regards to the uni joint they have a good life span unless the rubber boot splits and allows water in. You will know if it is on the way out if you get a bad vibration in the right foot peg under load or over big bumps.

[@johnh2413]

@@MikesMachines Thank you very much for your quick response. Now I know what to look for with the universal joint and which motor oil and additives to use! At the next oil change I put a 15 or 20w50 fully synthetic and a zinc additive in it. The rubber is in good condition and I don't feel any vibrations or anything like that. Thanks again for the great tips and explanations. I will continue to enjoy watching your channel. Greeting John

[@SB-Kiwi]

I've read a bit about zinc additives and there seems to be a concern sometimes even from the additive manufacturer themselves about slipping clutches when used in bikes. What is your advice on this?

[@danysmart1972]

Hi Mike's why do you use a 20w50 instead of 10w50 or 10w60 or 5w50? I live in North of Italy and I use the bike (Guzzi 850 T5 with scola's cam, open exhaust, big carb.. year 1984) during the winter and I want to protect the engine during cold start at 5/6 celsius 41 fahrenheit... I use liqui moly 5w50 with molibden sulfure (Mo2S)... The max oil's temperature that I saw was 105 celsius during hot summer (I have a termometer instead of cap). Good advice about zddp.. thank you in Advance

[@MikesMachines]

Hi Daniele, our climate is much warmer even in winter so a 20w50 is fine. I've never used Liqui Moly oils so don't know much about them. I've always used synthetic oils where possible mainly because they have a longer service life than mineral oils. It also gets very hot here in summer which will test any oil!

[@danysmart1972]

@@MikesMachines many thanks!!!

[@oluffriesthomsen7680]

If you put the drain plug back in, after drainig the oil there is no way you will spill oil.

[@pyperrier]

Hi Mike, that's a great video, I was not aware about the lack of zinc in modern oil... good to know ! I am now ready to do servicing on my 1000 Le Mans 4 (1986). I don't remember the size of joint washers for plugs (engine, gear box, and transmission housing). Could you give me any advice to buy the right one straight away ? By the way do you have any tips about oil to use for gear box and transmission housing ? Thanks_Pierre

[@MikesMachines]

I've always used the factory crush washers. Sump Washer - GU95100709 (20,1x28x2) Gearbox & Bevel Level & Drain - GU10528900 The manual specifies a 80w90 but I use a full synthetic Motul 75w90 in both the gearbox and bevel drive. If you prefer to use a mineral oil, Motul also make a 80w90 with added moly. Whilst a plain mineral oil is ok for the gearbox. A synthetic or mineral with added moly is recommended for the bevel drive.

[@pyperrier]

Hi Mike, thank you for the advice. One more question, how much fuel I should expect to burn on a normal ride (?miles/1 litre or ?litre/100km) ? Thx_PY @@MikesMachines

[@MikesMachines]

I must admit that I haven't kept track of the fuel consumption so far. I'll work it out next time I fill up and let you know.

[@MikesMachines]

On my last ride of 150km of country riding I returned a fuel consumption of 4.9l per 100km.

[@pyperrier]

@@MikesMachines Hi Mike, Thanks for that. I will track it as well. Cheers_PY

[@ivotrythisathome8502]

Can anyone tell me if in my 850 Le man's 3 the oil change is the same?

[@MikesMachines]

The only difference is the lack of a sump spacer.

[@ivotrythisathome8502]

I wish to see the oil change also in the cardanic transmission. Thank you for your time and great videos. Hi from Italy

[@cadillacescalade1]

Now i understand why japanese bikes are the best….