Moza R9 Pit House Settings DEEP DIVE! [EA Sports WRC]

[@patrick247two]

The settings you have shown here work well with my R5. 1000% improvement on the old set up. I appreciate your work.

[@georgiostsakonis]

my r5 with this video settings 2000% improvement

[@RALLYTechnical]

Glad to here your enjoying the settings. I've been using some more refined settings over the last couple of months. Will be releasing them soon.

[@ST0LZ]

I've been using your setups and settings recommendations for years and they are all fantastic. I really appreciate the great work, thanks a lot. However there is one single setting that you always get wrong in DR/WRC games: 'Steering Center Force'. This in-game setting only applies in two scenarios: when your car gets automatically reset back to the track after leaving it, or during the countdown at the start of a stage. It does not apply while your are driving. What it does is to detect whether the steering wheel is in the center position (0°) during the mentioned scenarios and automatically move it back to the center position (0°) if it's not. It's useful for wheels with more than 360° because an apparently centered wheel may actually be at -360° or 360°. This setting has saved me oftentimes after getting disoriented after a crash. Cheers

[@jordanmassart877]

Rally love it, I have much more fun than before with these settings! thank you🥰

[@georgiostsakonis]

in begin i use this settings tried to keep my mouth close

[@oskansavli]

14:20 Spot on about the buggy implementation of Speed Dependent Damping. It's the same in AC and AMS2 too. Totally buggy feature that shouldn't be used until it's fixed yet some people still use it and recommend it. Your FFB eq curve also looks like mine. I use 110 120 110 100 80 50 currently for AC.

[@Stress-Man]

Thank you for the competent explanation of each item of the Pit-House settings. I recently purchased an R5 Bundle to replace my old G27, although I didn't spend much time in the rally, so I'm interested. Is the steering wheel really that heavy for rally cars? I don't have very pumped-up arms, but I feel like it's pretty strong when you start turning it. If I have free time, I will try to correct some settings, and then I will have to learn not to collect all the passing snowdrifts, stones, trees ... 😁

[@TheMash84]

Thanks to your video I created a great start base for my R9 V2 and RS V2 wheel! For some reason, I can't keep the low frequency higher than 40% as where there are intense bumps as well as rapid change of direction of the wheel due to inertia, the shaft/base emit a metallic sound (like mechanical play). My wheel is brand new and I've tried on two different brand new R9 V2 (I sent back the first unit and purchased another new one), had the same effect. Probably it's due to the internal design of the R9 as I didn't have such behaviour on my former R5. Anyway, I got a great configuration for the wheel, the right amount of road vibrations and feedback and great balance between torque, inertia and wheel speed. Thanks so much! Next step is watching the car setup videos 😀

[@trungtrung9739]

I have a headache not knowing whether to choose r9 or r12. Which force feedback is better?

[@RALLYTechnical]

If you can afford the r12, get that. You can always dial it down if you find it too much as first. The motor itself provides a smoother experience compared with the r9. In terms of realism, the r12 should give a more realistic experience when driving the rally1 cars. But, the r9 is good for fast road driving which pretty much covers an authentic experience for most of the cars in EA Sports WRC.

[@gaminginstilllife9429]

The r9 is enough for me

[@MikaTarkela]

You don't have to modify the device_defines file but it fixes the problem. You could just go to the game and just before you start a race, turn off the wheelbase and turn it on again. Then the ffb will work. Editing the file is great because you can skip the previous step I mentioned.

[@chiribuki]

Very good set up. The steering wheel, maybe, is some gentle to the reality, but for me this is the top 1 of the set ups I have probed in this game. I have one question, normally I have seen for everybody the wheel rotation in 540 degrees. I have probe it but really I can't drive very well, in turns of 1 or 90 degrees, it's very hard for me turning correctly. Now I have change it to 460 dregrees and for me is perfect. I'm crazy or it's not a really problem? Can you make one video explaining the brake pedal set up too? Thank you

[@filipe4117]

Hello, would you have updated settings for new FFB 3.0 firmware? Moza R12 user here.

[@RALLYTechnical]

Hello, I have been testing some V2 settings for the R9 for a while now. The multiple firmware updates I have received over that time have not required a change in the wheel settings in the Pit House software or in game and tbh i haven't noticed a slightest difference in the feel. Other than the wheel base generally feeling smoother and now with the updates to EA Sports WRC, The wheel just works. No need to turn it off and back on again every time you start the game. My improved V2 settings will be along in around a week or two. Just got to find time to record and edit the video.

[@filipe4117]

Would you have any suggestion on how to compensate the lack of tyre friction and wheel friction on Xbox? I've been using your settings on my R12+ESX on Xbox and been enjoying it a lot on gravel (just a few clicks less on ingame SAT, engine and collision), but after trying tarmac, there really seems to be something missing that makes me lose my grip reference.

[@RALLYTechnical]

Unfortunately, the tyre and wheel friction is what makes or breaks wheel base settings on EA Sports WRC. As thats what controls the wheel weight and the g force effects on the wheel. So on xbox and playstation you are extremely limited on what you can do in terms of getting realistic settings. Finding that sweet spot of realism is where PC players have the advantage. Fortunately, I do have an xbox series x currently on the way to me. So, keep an eye for some settings in the near future.

[@filipe4117]

@RALLYTechnical it is really difficult to determine. From what I had previously read, I'd bet that tyre and wheel friction options do exactly what you told. However, some people on discord claim that these two effects in reality don't add much and that tarmac physics in general are bad, not as horrible as DR2.0, but with no real physic simulations at all. What the truth is, I don't know. I might get the game on my laptop just to compare FFB performance.

[@RALLYTechnical]

@filipe4117 tyre and wheel friction have a huge difference in terms of feel from there min and max settings and the defaults are horrible to drive with. Also, asphalt physics are bang on point in ea sports wrc. You just have to know how to setup a wheel correctly, as codies do nothing on that front. This knowledge comes from comparing dr2.0 console vs pc and ea sports on pc. Will be testing ea sports wrc on xbox later this week but my guess is it will be the same as the Dr2.0 comparison with xbox suffering due to the lack of adjustable friction settings.

[@filipe4117]

@@RALLYTechnical really looking forward to your testing! I've read that last patch, in which they added Xbox preset for Moza R3 (sadly only the R3), also enabled tyre friction option. Maybe they will include this for other Moza wheels in the future.

[@TrueBlade-1889]

What rim are you using ? It makes a huge difference.

[@RALLYTechnical]

I'm using the CS. You really shouldn't be using anything other than the CS or RS for Rally which is why I didn't mention it.

[@360hackern]

Are these settings still good after latest firmware? i am on R12 so guess some down tweaking are needed 😊

[@RALLYTechnical]

Firmware updates very rarely effect the FFB settings. They are usually for quality of life fixes, game compatibility and in this case cooling management. The latest firmware has had no effect on the intended settings in this video. However, I am currently working on some V2 settings to better match my Fanatec 8Nm V2 settings to better improve the feel of realism for the Moza R9 wheel base. For your R12 wheel base you will most likely only need to lower the in game 'Self aligned torque'. Considering I have an 8Nm and 9Nm wheel it has given me the chance to figure out what the difference 1Nm makes on the self aligned torque and I have this pegged at roughly 2-3. So, for your R12 wheel I would guess you'll need the self aligned torque at around the 43 - 46 mark. If you bump up the tyre friction to 69 in game you'll get an idea of what my V2 settings will be like as well.

[@360hackern]

​Thanks man good info 😊

[@IWHiTEI]

Hi! Do I understand correctly that for the r5 bandle, I need to increase the value of the self aligning torque setting (60+) and decrease the road sensitivity (around 6-7)? PS It looks like no need to change the settings in the file now, as I already had them after installing the game

[@RALLYTechnical]

Hi, you will need to increase the self aligning torque for sure. You will need to adjust the road sensitivity as that would naturally decrease with the torque of your wheel anyway. So you'll most likely need to up it.

[@IWHiTEI]

​@@RALLYTechnical Thanks for the recommendation, if i take the torque value of 69 (+40% cuz my base 5.5nm) as a basis , how roughly should the wheel and tyre friction values be changed? 46 and 8? PS Perhaps you can reproduce R5 by setting the value of maximum output torque limit to 60%

[@smallboy891]

by the way can you share some settings for dirt rally 2.0 or dirt rally 1 for moza r5 ? i seriously need one that's not too strong but in the middle

[@RALLYTechnical]

I can't do any specifically for the R5 as I don't have that base but I am working on DR 2.0 settings for the R9. I can't do DR1 settings for as for some reason my fanatec v3 pedals go dead when I have the R9 plugged in for that specific game. As far as I can tell it doesn't support multiple peripherals like dr2.0 does.

[@smallboy891]

@@RALLYTechnical well r9 is enough whenever you are ready

[@patrick247two]

Thank you.

[@AleksanderWarski]

Would this change a lot for DR2 or just tweaking?

[@RALLYTechnical]

I am currently working on settings for DR2.0. So far I'm pretty certain its going to be identical but I have only tested gravel so far. As you know Asphalt is pretty weak on DR2.0 so I may have to make changes to compensate for that.

[@360hackern]

@@RALLYTechnicalHi are you done with DR2 den settings?

[@JoaoBVSJ]

18:30 mark for test when go home

[@vague2718]

Forgot to leave the code in the description. lol

[@vague2718]

Also could use a link to screenshot of the Linearity Guide.

[@RALLYTechnical]

My bad 😅 will update it around 12am GMT when I get home from work.

[@RALLYTechnical]

Good idea. Will do that too

[@petermaardananders6803]

I won't advise anyone to buy Moza things ever, they did not even try to RMA my broken R5 brake pedal correctly. It took them from April 30th to July 11th, 2024 to get me a working brake pedal again, and you know that the issue is a persistent issue/reoccurring error (in all their brake pedal models) they should have already fixed for all users. And if you are one of the lucky ones who had a good RMA service, think about those who have been left with next to no service from Moza (China)or their intermediaries (Rseat France/Germany (in my case the intermediary of Hardware Experts, the Netherlands)))and their retailers (in my case: Hardware experts, Lelystad, the Netherlands( Bram Nijs & Jorgo Rinu)). Never buy their products if you want to play it safe. I'm no fanboy of anyone or anything, my logi. G920 wheel/pedals, except for some dust problems (easy fix some cleaning/ contact spraying the pot meters in my pedals) I never had problems over the multiple years (6+ years) of having used it. Can't say that about Moza after only 11 months!

[@jeremyjaquane7214]

sorry to say this but it drives just horrible. Don't know why you guys love this. You only feel suspension and tyre slip, but cant even drive straight

[@RALLYTechnical]

If you can't drive straight, you've done something wrong somewhere my friend.