Moza R9 Pit House Settings DEEP DIVE! [EA Sports WRC]

In this DEEP DIVE explanation video you will hear one nerdy rally guru nerding out whilst waving his mouse cursor around the screen. I will talk you through what every setting does in the Moza Pit House Software as well as the in game settings for EA Sports WRC. Hopefully you will be able to use the info I shared in this video to build your own settings but I have also included my own settings as well should you want to try them.
Intro 00:00
Code input 00:43
Basic Settings 02:13
Advanced Settings 07:06
FFB Effect Equalizer 16:00
Base FFB Curve 20:34
Miscellaneous 21:37
EA Sports WRC FFB Settings 23:20
EA Sports WRC Advanced Settings 27:16
EA Sports WRC Input Bindings 28:43
Wheel Lock & Linearity Guide 31:10
My Personal Settings 31:15
Credits 31:50
So it turns out you can't put the angled brackets in the KZbin video description so unfortunately I will have to redirect you to Race Departments website and you can copy it from there:
www.racedepartment.com/thread...
Steering Lock and Linearity link
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#easportswrc #mozaracing #racingahead #simracing #rally #rallye

[@patrick247two]

The settings you have shown here work well with my R5. 1000% improvement on the old set up. I appreciate your work.

[@jordanmassart877]

Rally love it, I have much more fun than before with these settings! thank you🥰

[@TheMash84]

Thanks to your video I created a great start base for my R9 V2 and RS V2 wheel! For some reason, I can't keep the low frequency higher than 40% as where there are intense bumps as well as rapid change of direction of the wheel due to inertia, the shaft/base emit a metallic sound (like mechanical play). My wheel is brand new and I've tried on two different brand new R9 V2 (I sent back the first unit and purchased another new one), had the same effect. Probably it's due to the internal design of the R9 as I didn't have such behaviour on my former R5. Anyway, I got a great configuration for the wheel, the right amount of road vibrations and feedback and great balance between torque, inertia and wheel speed. Thanks so much! Next step is watching the car setup videos 😀

[@trungtrung9739]

I have a headache not knowing whether to choose r9 or r12. Which force feedback is better?

[@RALLYTechnical]

If you can afford the r12, get that. You can always dial it down if you find it too much as first. The motor itself provides a smoother experience compared with the r9. In terms of realism, the r12 should give a more realistic experience when driving the rally1 cars. But, the r9 is good for fast road driving which pretty much covers an authentic experience for most of the cars in EA Sports WRC.

[@ST0LZ]

I've been using your setups and settings recommendations for years and they are all fantastic. I really appreciate the great work, thanks a lot. However there is one single setting that you always get wrong in DR/WRC games: 'Steering Center Force'. This in-game setting only applies in two scenarios: when your car gets automatically reset back to the track after leaving it, or during the countdown at the start of a stage. It does not apply while your are driving. What it does is to detect whether the steering wheel is in the center position (0°) during the mentioned scenarios and automatically move it back to the center position (0°) if it's not. It's useful for wheels with more than 360° because an apparently centered wheel may actually be at -360° or 360°. This setting has saved me oftentimes after getting disoriented after a crash. Cheers

[@chiribuki]

Very good set up. The steering wheel, maybe, is some gentle to the reality, but for me this is the top 1 of the set ups I have probed in this game. I have one question, normally I have seen for everybody the wheel rotation in 540 degrees. I have probe it but really I can't drive very well, in turns of 1 or 90 degrees, it's very hard for me turning correctly. Now I have change it to 460 dregrees and for me is perfect. I'm crazy or it's not a really problem? Can you make one video explaining the brake pedal set up too? Thank you

[@patrick247two]

Thank you.

[@oskansavli]

14:20 Spot on about the buggy implementation of Speed Dependent Damping. It's the same in AC and AMS2 too. Totally buggy feature that shouldn't be used until it's fixed yet some people still use it and recommend it. Your FFB eq curve also looks like mine. I use 110 120 110 100 80 50 currently for AC.

[@MikaTarkela]

You don't have to modify the device_defines file but it fixes the problem. You could just go to the game and just before you start a race, turn off the wheelbase and turn it on again. Then the ffb will work. Editing the file is great because you can skip the previous step I mentioned.

[@IWHiTEI]

Hi! Do I understand correctly that for the r5 bandle, I need to increase the value of the self aligning torque setting (60+) and decrease the road sensitivity (around 6-7)? PS It looks like no need to change the settings in the file now, as I already had them after installing the game

[@RALLYTechnical]

Hi, you will need to increase the self aligning torque for sure. You will need to adjust the road sensitivity as that would naturally decrease with the torque of your wheel anyway. So you'll most likely need to up it.

[@IWHiTEI]

​@@RALLYTechnical Thanks for the recommendation, if i take the torque value of 69 (+40% cuz my base 5.5nm) as a basis , how roughly should the wheel and tyre friction values be changed? 46 and 8? PS Perhaps you can reproduce R5 by setting the value of maximum output torque limit to 60%

[@smallboy891]

by the way can you share some settings for dirt rally 2.0 or dirt rally 1 for moza r5 ? i seriously need one that's not too strong but in the middle

[@RALLYTechnical]

I can't do any specifically for the R5 as I don't have that base but I am working on DR 2.0 settings for the R9. I can't do DR1 settings for as for some reason my fanatec v3 pedals go dead when I have the R9 plugged in for that specific game. As far as I can tell it doesn't support multiple peripherals like dr2.0 does.

[@smallboy891]

@@RALLYTechnical well r9 is enough whenever you are ready

[@AleksanderWarski]

Would this change a lot for DR2 or just tweaking?

[@RALLYTechnical]

I am currently working on settings for DR2.0. So far I'm pretty certain its going to be identical but I have only tested gravel so far. As you know Asphalt is pretty weak on DR2.0 so I may have to make changes to compensate for that.

[@JoaoBVSJ]

18:30 mark for test when go home

[@vague2718]

Forgot to leave the code in the description. lol

[@vague2718]

Also could use a link to screenshot of the Linearity Guide.

[@RALLYTechnical]

My bad 😅 will update it around 12am GMT when I get home from work.

[@RALLYTechnical]

Good idea. Will do that too

[@petermaardananders6803]

I won't advise anyone to buy Moza things ever, they did not even try to RMA my broken R5 brake pedal correctly. It took them from April 30th to July 11th, 2024 to get me a working brake pedal again, and you know that the issue is a persistent issue/reoccurring error (in all their brake pedal models) they should have already fixed for all users. And if you are one of the lucky ones who had a good RMA service, think about those who have been left with next to no service from Moza (China)or their intermediaries (Rseat France/Germany (in my case the intermediary of Hardware Experts, the Netherlands)))and their retailers (in my case: Hardware experts, Lelystad, the Netherlands( Bram Nijs & Jorgo Rinu)). Never buy their products if you want to play it safe. I'm no fanboy of anyone or anything, my logi. G920 wheel/pedals, except for some dust problems (easy fix some cleaning/ contact spraying the pot meters in my pedals) I never had problems over the multiple years (6+ years) of having used it. Can't say that about Moza after only 11 months!