What you are proposing is unrealistic, to say the least. If you think the drivers in the WRC don't know the stages when they get there you are wrong. They know them inside out and back to front. What they don't know is the grip levels. When they run the same stage on the same day they are always 20-30 seconds quicker. So don't be annoyed about people running stages like a full time job. Just seek pleasure in the fact you spent more time doing the things elsewhere that are important to you. Plus nobody cares when someone sets a world record on a game. Well, not more than the 5-10mins they are watching it.

@RALLYTechnical Over the last 10 years, the shortest total length of all stages in a World Rally Championship (WRC) season was in 2021, with approximately 3,200 kilometers. The longest was in 2013, with a total stage length of around 4,500 kilometers. No swet 😭🤣😂 Calculated by AI 😁

So, from all that, i can say it's your knowledge of the stage that's letting you down. If you want the top spot on this stage you'll have to think outside of the box with your braking, turning and throttle on points. Always try something different. As doing the same thing over and over again will yield the same results.

@@RALLYTechnical Thanks. I will try and improve but I don't think number 1 spot is realistic for me now around that stage around Finland.

You will have to increase the self-aligned torque in-game by around 3-5 and that's it.

@ thanks for the quick response legend!

My account is cyber_rider

If you can't drive straight, you've done something wrong somewhere my friend.

So it setup the soft setup on a tight twisty stage on kenya as I would also use it for Greece. So the gearing is a little long to reduce the amount of gear changes. So, the gearing will be your main focus for getting extra time out of it. What adjustments you make will pretty much come down to how much corner speed you can hold. The aim is to be just hitting the limiter in 5th at the end of the longest straight you come across.

@@RALLYTechnical okay, will get the gearing sorted out. But what about the ability to eat up the Kenya bumps? Is there nothing more to do? I tried a really soft spring rate and the car would bottom out on some braking zones sometimes. Overall felt good, but unsafe due to the bottoming out.

@xWhiZZy So, there are other things you can do. One is to adjust your racing lines. Sometimes you do have to slow down as well. Other times you have to avoid things entirely if possible. Every car has its limits and you will most likely find those limits in Kenya.

@@RALLYTechnical I can get a top8 timetrial time consistently in Kenya with your soft gravel setup. Just looking, what might Kenya require adjusting.

Hi, some things in the setups are highly specific to me. Gears being one of them, brakes being the other. We all have different driving styles and racing lines so we all achieve different top speeds down the straights. Getting these settings on point for everyone is practically impossible. For you personally, if you are struggling to achieve a high speed down the straights I would recommend lowering the final drive in the gears tab until you feel its right for you.

@RALLYTechnical thanks mate for so quick response. I am really thanks also for your hard work to find that setups for us.

Yeah, that would be nice, though I always thought of a rally technical DLC pack which gives you access to my setups straight from game, but doesn't take up any save slots at the same time. But that is overly optimistic and unrealistic 😅

Yeah, the simple reason is this, I Explained it the wrong way around 😅 Don't know why that happened, other than I did this video after a few month's of not playing the game.

Correto 👍

@@RALLYTechnical obrigado. Se puder colocar as configurações dos dois novos rally agradeço

Firmware updates very rarely effect the FFB settings. They are usually for quality of life fixes, game compatibility and in this case cooling management. The latest firmware has had no effect on the intended settings in this video. However, I am currently working on some V2 settings to better match my Fanatec 8Nm V2 settings to better improve the feel of realism for the Moza R9 wheel base. For your R12 wheel base you will most likely only need to lower the in game 'Self aligned torque'. Considering I have an 8Nm and 9Nm wheel it has given me the chance to figure out what the difference 1Nm makes on the self aligned torque and I have this pegged at roughly 2-3. So, for your R12 wheel I would guess you'll need the self aligned torque at around the 43 - 46 mark. If you bump up the tyre friction to 69 in game you'll get an idea of what my V2 settings will be like as well.

​Thanks man good info 😊

Unfortunately, the tyre and wheel friction is what makes or breaks wheel base settings on EA Sports WRC. As thats what controls the wheel weight and the g force effects on the wheel. So on xbox and playstation you are extremely limited on what you can do in terms of getting realistic settings. Finding that sweet spot of realism is where PC players have the advantage. Fortunately, I do have an xbox series x currently on the way to me. So, keep an eye for some settings in the near future.

@RALLYTechnical it is really difficult to determine. From what I had previously read, I'd bet that tyre and wheel friction options do exactly what you told. However, some people on discord claim that these two effects in reality don't add much and that tarmac physics in general are bad, not as horrible as DR2.0, but with no real physic simulations at all. What the truth is, I don't know. I might get the game on my laptop just to compare FFB performance.

@filipe4117 tyre and wheel friction have a huge difference in terms of feel from there min and max settings and the defaults are horrible to drive with. Also, asphalt physics are bang on point in ea sports wrc. You just have to know how to setup a wheel correctly, as codies do nothing on that front. This knowledge comes from comparing dr2.0 console vs pc and ea sports on pc. Will be testing ea sports wrc on xbox later this week but my guess is it will be the same as the Dr2.0 comparison with xbox suffering due to the lack of adjustable friction settings.

@@RALLYTechnical really looking forward to your testing! I've read that last patch, in which they added Xbox preset for Moza R3 (sadly only the R3), also enabled tyre friction option. Maybe they will include this for other Moza wheels in the future.

Soft lock is your problem here. If you want it locked at 540 for every car you will need to turn soft lock off. However, if you want to experience the older cars as intended, then calibrate your wheel to 1120 and leave soft lock on. Soft lock automatically changes the wheel lock to match the car. So if you have your wheel calibrated to 540 and have soft lock turned on while driving a modern rally car your wheel lock will be 270. On a side note, modern rally cars have a wheel lock of 560. Hope all this info helps you have a better sim rally experience my friend.

so if i calibrate to 1120 then modern cars have 560 which is 280 in each direction. and the older cars will sort themselves out. and lastly linearity should be at zero? thanks for all the help man. i had it set up before but there must have been an update that messed up my settings. but thanks again

also on my fanatec wheel i have SEN on auto. and would like to keep it that way so i dont have to change that setting when i play a different game on my console. just so you know

@aegean0019 correct to everything there. Linearity will be '0' for modern cars and the lock will be automatically 560. Cars around 720 will be -1. Cars around 900 will be -2. Cars that are 1000 above will be -3. Doing this will speed up the travel at top dead centre to stop the older cars from feeling so numb. I'm not sure if I put the breakdown for Linearity in this video but it's definitely in the Moza R9 wheel settings video.

works perfectly thank you!

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKC7dHeLlNqVeMk there you go

@RALLYTechnical thank you

I'm using the CS. You really shouldn't be using anything other than the CS or RS for Rally which is why I didn't mention it.

Essentially, all you should be doing for f1 cars is changing the wheel lock to 270° - 360°and slowing down the top dead-centre wheel travel speed with the linearity to compensate for that low lock. If it's a mod car, then it all depends on what the modder has done. I know the rally car mods I tried wildly differed in terms of wheel weight and strength.

Well done 👏 glad to hear you are enjoying one of the setups. And it's good to know it works on the 23 Yaris as well. That will save me some time later on. Thanks

You're most welcome 🤓

Thank you for your fantastic setup video on the 2024 GR Yaris. I applied it to the 2023 Yaris in Moments and on the Global Leaderboard's "Big Crash" I was good for P112 when recorded. Very nice handling characteristics with a CSL Elite steering wheel! kzbin.info/www/bejne/emHTaoKNbJ6DsK8

@@RALLYTechnical yaris first win sweden

Hello, There are no daft questions here. Just questions you dont know the answer too. So, soft and firm refers to suspension stiffness. Gravel types are usually referred to as light and heavy. The confusion usually comes in when you have a medium suspension setup while on medium Gravel 😅 Hope that helps to clarify.

@RALLYTechnical it does,thank you sir,they help a ton^^

Hello, I have been testing some V2 settings for the R9 for a while now. The multiple firmware updates I have received over that time have not required a change in the wheel settings in the Pit House software or in game and tbh i haven't noticed a slightest difference in the feel. Other than the wheel base generally feeling smoother and now with the updates to EA Sports WRC, The wheel just works. No need to turn it off and back on again every time you start the game. My improved V2 settings will be along in around a week or two. Just got to find time to record and edit the video.