Pioneer Inverter+ Heat Pump - Complete Install and Demo

[@infofree8]

My son and I have installed Two and each time we have had to move the bracket. This made me feel so good that it wasn't me and next time I will remember The half-inch modification. Thank you

[@majorhavoc9693]

How much in what direction?

[@b376010]

@@majorhavoc9693 Read my reply above. Basically the bottom of the exit tube/hole in the wall needs to be almost flush with the bottom of the indoor unit, but not so close that you'll see it after installation.

[@raindogs451]

The best DIY I've ever seen. One concern.... Using a set of HVAC gages to pressure test in a vacuum is like doing surgery with a butter knife. You just can't know the depth of the vacuum, whether there's a micro leak or moisture content. Use nitrogen to reveal big leaks; a micron gage for small leaks and moisture. 30" of water column is only 1 PSI, but a micron gage and vacuum is a more reliable. I was taught that nitrogen is looking for 40 marbles among an Olympic size pool full of marbles, whereas using a micron gage and 1 psi is looking for those 40 marbles among a group of 100. You're measuring with a very fine measuring tool; microns vs PSI. And only a micron gage looks for moisture. Fantastic install.

[@cyclopentadiol2923]

Your video has certainly helped answer some questions I had about installing my own mini splits. I wasn't sure how bending the head unit pipes 90 degrees wasn't going to cause kinks to form. The spiraled pipe now makes much more sense to me. After doing a lot of research and talking with a person who used to work for the company that installed my first mini split several years ago, I would rather buy a top quality product and void warranty versus getting sub-par product with a perceived warranty. That statement from Pioneer is so full of loopholes for Lawyers that I can't imagine any warranty support will be honored without extensive headaches. Based on quotes (even the guy who I spoke with who is now an independent electrician/HVAC contractor) I can literally buy 2 mini splits and the equipment needed (good vacuum pump, CRT's, hoses, nitrogen bottle, outdoor mounts, line sets/covers, etc.) for the price of one full install by a contractor. They try to make it seem scary because you are dealing with dangerous refrigerants under pressure that might damage you, your property, or the environment. What it truly boils down to is using the correct equipment in a safe and per instructions manner. The servicing and install of these systems isn't rocket science, the physics of how they transfer heat is, and contractors just have a basic understanding of this information. I'm willing to bet 80% of them wouldn't be able to explain PV = nRT which is necessary to understand before even getting into refrigerant properties. As others mentioned, a $70 CRT would have made your vacuum procedure 1000 times easier, along with a $200 digital vacuum gauge to verify you were sub 500 microns after the decay test.

[@aaronstestlab]

I tend to agree with your sentiments regarding the value of an in-tact warranty after having a year to think about it. Not because I think Pioneer would engage expensive lawyers to avoid sending out a cheap part, but because that cheap part(if it's any part that touches refrigerant) is likely not useful to the DIY'er. However, I disagree with the general notion that just because something isn't top of the line, it's "sub-par." I don't think GM products are as good as those made by Honda, but that doesn't then mean I think GM products are sub-par. Just different points on a wide quality spectrum.

[@mikafoxx2717]

Plus, usually it's parts only coverage for warranty, which means you only pay more for the repair to be done. You could also just buy a generic part like a motor for often under a hundred bucks and install it yourself.

[@ourme2]

Excellent video! Thank you for taking the time for a thorough install explanation and review! Like you mentioned, some of us do the vacuuming using a digital gauge, and I have always used a valve core removal tool which makes the process quite a bit quicker. Once you have reached and can hold a deep vacuum of at least 200ppm for about 15 minutes, open the gas and liquid lines to charge the system and then replace the valve core, and since you already have a pressurized system, the tiny amount of air that would be introduced in the service valve while replacing the valve core gets purged out when you remove the core removal tool. I charged up my 3-zone system in about 2 hours with this system, because the vacuuming takes 15 min when you remove the valve cores. Pioneer are my favorite split AC systems👌

[@Notsosamurai1]

If mounted on a slab you don't have airflow from the bottom but on a wall mount you do.

[@raindogs451]

Why do you need airflow from the bottom? That's not a concern

[@Notsosamurai1]

@raindogs451 They have different specs for close it can be to a wall based on mounted on the ground or off the ground because of additional air flow from the bottom. Mounting on a wall off the ground the clearence is 4 inches. Slab is 12 inches.

[@raindogs451]

@@Notsosamurai1I thought you assumed there's actually air flow through the sheet metal.

[@Notsosamurai1]

@raindogs451 No just more air flow around it. Not as much air pressure.

[@jeff_holmes]

Awesome video! Did the same thing about forgetting to open the other valve. Came back and watched your video again and now everything is working great! Thanks again.

[@aaronstestlab]

Nice! Glad to hear it

[@b376010]

Great review, I'm working on installing two 18k btu's myself. I just want to say that the template IS off. The hole for the pipes needs to be about 1/4" lower for the unit to sit flush on the wall, otherwise the hoses bind up between the blower unit and the wall. On mine, there is also a hard foam block where the hoses exit that keeps them from sitting down flush into the unit. I removed and trimmed the foam block a bit. The tube location can be be checked by sitting the indoor unit face down on the floor (on a blanket or towel) and slide the supplied 2.5" plastic tube (which I also didn't use as it's very flimsy) until it's flush against the back of the unit. You'll see that the side space is correct at about 1/2" but the bottom space is almost flush with the bottom edge of the unit, especially when you try routing the drain line at the bottom. I hope this explains the problem and solution.

[@aaronstestlab]

Thanks for verifying I'm not crazy, lol

[@infofree8]

" 2.5" plastic tube" What did you use instead of the included flimsy line?

[@aaronstestlab]

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[@pocket83squared]

The dilemma at 20:46 really worked me up on my first mini-split. Today I'm working on my second. It's nice that you mentioned the problem, especially because these units come pre-charged with the appropriate amount of refrigerant, but it's not easy for the DIY installer to tell with any certainty just how much refrigerant remains. Most videos conveniently gloss over the issue as a minor detail. Without much experience in this trade, it's really tough to get a 'feel' for what one can get away with. How much refrigerant deviation is worth worrying about? The manual is vague on this point. It simply states that refrigerant should be adjusted accordingly if the (16') line-set length is reduced by more than 10'. My first install was around a 8' reduction, and so it was easy to reason that the "release valuable refrigerant" button was the correct choice. The mini-split has been working at a (seemingly) reasonable efficiency for a few years now. But today's install requires removing MORE than 10', and so my new dilemma is how to determine _how much_ refrigerant to release. Down the rabbit-hole, then? To learn how to measure refrigerant levels? Where to begin?

[@sirhc07]

I work as an oil burner tech in New England,and during my slow season usually spring through summer I have installed several pioneer mini splits for my customers on the side. They seem like pretty decent units. I've only had 1 compressor burn out and they just sent a brand new outdoor unit. Now, are they as top notch and reliable as a mitsubishi or Fujitsu time will tell, but for the money you can't go wrong. I'm thinking about signing up for a wholesale account they have on their website. I even installed one of their 12 k single zone units for my garage and its done what its supposed to. I do alot of repairs on my vehicles myself so its been nice staying comfortable during the summer months doing little repairs.

[@aaronstestlab]

Nice! Thanks for the long-term data point.

[@Bob-rn8eu]

Great overview of the Pioneer unit and the installation procedure. I will be Installing one of the Pioneer 18000 btu units myself shortly. Thank you for your time posting this video.

[@aaronstestlab]

Nice. This thing hasn't missed a beat all summer. I think you'll be happy with it.

[@johngalt5504]

The best Pioneer installation and review, and I have watched a bunch.

[@aaronstestlab]

Thank You. Also, I like the username, lol.

[@rpatel8978]

Thank you to individuals like you for taking the time and making well put together videos like this. Just bought a five zone for my business and you have given me the confidence to do self install (friend who is HVAC guy will teach me that portion of the install). You mentioned the app and an adaptor. Can you elaborate on the adaptor? I didn't realize wifi capability was not built in. From the marketing, any intelligent person would presume that everything was built in. Thanks

[@Mltemple8333]

Best install video on a Pioneer unit by far. Well done.

[@aaronstestlab]

Thanks, appreciate it.

[@stoneyswolf]

The reason for mounting it farther away when it's on the ground is simple. Because now you'll only have 3 sides to draw in air and you'll need to compensate for that.

[@pn3751]

Very spot on review. Thank you Aaron.

[@jonathanshallow5741]

Hi, Great video, want to confirm with you, does the unit need 1/2" supply gas line coming from main line? thank you.

[@aaronstestlab]

Thanks. I'm not sure what you mean by "supply line." If you're referring to natural gas, it's a heap pump and doesn't require any. If you're referring to the refrigerant lines, they're 1/4 and 1/2". But it's a packaged unit and doesn't need to "tap into" anything existing(except electrical).

[@dannygarcia8012]

Thanks for making the time to make this video, it's been very helpful! Quick question: Did you use a 20amp single-pole or double-pole breaker or something else?

[@dannygarcia8012]

Looks like a double-pole breaker @22:47. What amperage? From my research I've come to either a 20 or 15 amp requirement.

[@aaronstestlab]

So there's actually two numbers. First, is the minimum circuit ampacity, which is what the machine requires to run. I think mine was 15-amp. Then, there's the maximum overcurrent protection, this is the max size breaker(or fused disconnect) to be used in order to protect the motor. In practice, this means you need either a 15 or 20 amp breaker iirc.

[@mikafoxx2717]

​@@aaronstestlabdepends on the unit! 24,000 BTU for mine would be in the 20 to 30 amp range. Takes 17 amps at full blast. + The extra safety margin.

[@RobertLeliaert]

Where did you purchase the adjustable wrench adapter for the torque wrench

[@aaronstestlab]

I made it

[@Ricko1962]

I wonder if your washer level method has something to do with the harmonic noise?

[@rodneybracken4860]

The manufacturer instructions actually tell you to release 5 seconds of the gas at 1/4 turn open prior to disconnecting the vac lines.

[@ourme2]

I think they may mean that, when releasing the refrigerant to charge up the system, to open the gas line for 5 seconds, close it and then open the liquid line to full, then open the gas to full. You can lose enough refrigerant in 5 seconds releasing it to the outside that may leave your system running short if you are running 25ft lines or longer.

[@mikafoxx2717]

​@@ourme2nope, OP is right. Disconnecting the lines when still under vacuum will let air into the system which is much worse than releasing a little bit of vapor.

[@ourme2]

@@mikafoxx2717 System under vacuum, zero air in system, after 15min to verify no vacuum loss, close vacuum pump/gauge valves, remove vacuum pump and install core tool with retracted core in it, while releasing a 10th of a second worth of refrigerant to clear air from the chamber. Open refrigerant lines, now system is pressurized, so while re-installing valve core pressure pushes back tool, once core securely seated, you remove core tool and a microscopic amount of refrigerant gas/air/oil gets purged out. System is happy, planet earth is happy. 5 seconds of the gas is a lot to release. If everyone who buys a system frees up that much refrigerant into the atmosphere, we won’t have one soon.

[@ourme2]

Sorry, first open refrigerant valves, then purge a smidgen of gas while installing the core tool, and so on

[@JamesTaylor-dq3fs]

Howdy, I imagine that the space difference between slab and mounting rack would be airflow.

[@jcchan08]

This is correct if you mount it on the wall it allows for the unit to pull air from beneath the unit. Personally I prefer slab mounting to avoid any more penetrations to a building but you mounted to the foundation which is just as good

[@dangerdoberman]

Whoa. That's really great.

[@aaronstestlab]

Thanks!

[@neilfranklin1409]

Did u charge it with refrigerant? Or does it comes pre charged?

[@aaronstestlab]

Precharged for lineset lengths up to 25'

[@bigfranksworld]

Great review and information. I'm eithre going to purchase this unit in 12000BTU's, or the Tosot 12000BTU unit. Both seem well made. Either way, i have found your .STL files and will purchase the same A/C disconnect, and print the files out. Thanks for all you work on this.

[@aaronstestlab]

Probably can't go won't with either. I think Tosot is a subsidiary of Gree which makes great units. I just found Pioneer's tech support to be exceptionally helpful so that's what pushed me in that direction.

[@bigfranksworld]

@@aaronstestlab great info, thanks!

[@uwsome1]

I have one off each Tosot 9000 and Pioneer 18000

[@jf300d]

I wonder why the wifi adaptors are still not avalible? I noticed this was make one year ago. I just installed the same unit. I sure like to have wifi so I can control the unit anywhere.

[@aaronstestlab]

I bought the Wi-Fi module a bit after I made this video and wouldn’t buy it again. It works, but the app is buggy. Instead, I’d buy a Sensibio or CIelo Breeze mini split controller. Lot of support for those types of products with better home integration.

[@Mimiandfriend]

What do you mean about making flare connections inside on right side?

[@beebop9808]

Only complaint I have is the 2 1/5" wall opening for the line set. 3 would be much better. And the AC terminals on the condenser are as lame as they get. They are bare bones minimum in size and the terminal board is as wimpy as a slice of cheese. Do not plan on running solid copper conductors. You will be hating life. That said, use some 10ga stranded wire and it'll be fine. Love the mini split as a whole. Been doing an amazing job for me. Lot of bang for the buck as I see it.

[@pacospete4299]

Crows foot adapter used at 90 degrees ...... why 90 degrees ? i think I may know but I need confirmation ........ excellent video , I passed it on to my sons , Thank You !!!

[@jerrydavis3462]

Gave some thought to space behind the outside unit and I think it needs less space if it can pull ventilation air from under the unit which if slab mounted that air is unavailable!

[@aaronstestlab]

That sounds correct. The manufacturer actually commented somewhere on this video and referenced additional clearance from accumulated yard debris(leaves, etc.)

[@PennywiseM3]

Do you have a link for the adjustable Crowsfoot that you used for your torque wrench?

[@aaronstestlab]

I made it myself

[@PennywiseM3]

@@aaronstestlab I thoroughly searched the internet and couldn’t find it. Now it makes sense.

[@fabiangomez357]

where did you find/get a 2.5" pvc pipe? I can only find a 2" pvc pipe, do you think the comm cable, drain line and 2 refrigerant lines will fit in 2" pvc? I'm using this to keep my lineset from the elements and to avoid an interior leak.

[@aaronstestlab]

Plumbing supply store that sold by the foot. 2" is tight.

[@Thomas-wn7cl]

Did you adjust the torque spec on your torque wrench for the crow's foot? If so, by how much? I have a similar set up and am planning on doing an install soon. Great well thought out video.

[@aaronstestlab]

You don't need to adjust the torque value when using a crowfoot adapter, provided the adapter is perpendicular to the wrench. If in line with it, that's when you need to make adjustments. BTW, Tekton has a nice calculator for this purpose: www.tekton.com/blog/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench

[@Thomas-wn7cl]

@@aaronstestlab thanks for that

[@HTHAMMACK1]

66 degrees is room temperature to you?

[@vet137]

Snow is the reason for diff clearances on ground VS up on bracket :) PS: I bought a DELLA 9000 btu it is made by Pioneer I believe

[@aaronstestlab]

I don't think Pioneer makes Pioneer. Seems to me there are a lot of units from Della, Senville, Cooper & Hunter, Pioneer, Klimaire, etc. that all look identical.

[@mattjudd5275]

Mine doesn't have the resonance sound. If on the ground probably wouldn't be present. Also, install the wifi module and it's way easier to control. My remote had to be working 8 feet and wouldn't move the temperature above or below certain amounts in cool and heat mode

[@aaronstestlab]

I agree, the wifi module is worth it's $30'ish price tag. Purchased it about a month after install.

[@infofree8]

I Found better results if I file the lines after cutting them reducing any possibility of Burs damaging the face. Also I have added FlareSeal® Model MSP-0408 Leak Free SAE Flare Connections - Refrigerant Leaks Refrigeration, HVAC, Ductless, Schrader Valve or Mini Split Applications (1/4", Mini Split Pack - (2) 1/4" and (2) 1/2") . To make sure that there is no leakage.

[@b376010]

Pioneer now includes the flare seals in their kits, at least they were in mine.

[@rddickman1783]

Your link to Amazon line set covers are shown in WHITE...did you paint yours? I found another seller with grey...looking for grey. But the grey ones, buyers complained the color fades...(I have Rustoleum..LOL)

[@aaronstestlab]

Yes, I painted mine. First used a plastic primer and then top-coated to match my house. Did most of the painting before installing and then just touched up after I mounted everything.

[@xinkaiwang]

cool, thanks for sharing those. BTW, where is the link to the 3D printing model file? I think I need one of those as well. :)

[@aaronstestlab]

Thanks for reminding me, forgot to upload, here they are: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6015741

[@tomkalisz]

Can you sell the outside and inside mounting blocks for my system?

[@aaronstestlab]

Maybe...what kind of lap siding do you have?

[@tomkalisz]

I just order the units and will need 4 of those entry points covers. when I will know the exact location will let you know. Thank you.

[@Alleged_Mercenary]

So, none of the Pioneer units are truly DIY unless you buy a lot of HVAC tools to do it?

[@aaronstestlab]

Correct, but what project, DIY or not, doesn’t require tools?

[@Vanfran2]

I should have bought a Mr Cool. Much easier to install and no need for special equipment

[@aaronstestlab]

Perhaps, but the difference is cost usually exceeds the cost of the tools. Plus, you're then left with a janky looking DIY install with a non-custom lineset.

[@mikafoxx2717]

​@@aaronstestlabplus, then you have the tools for future installs at this place, a new place, your mom's place etc.

[@ien2023]

Reason why you need a professional to install.. I don't think the remote gonna work everywhere in the room. I'm confused...so to get an app ready you need to buy a separate adaptor??

[@infofree8]

I have mine Paired up to the Alexa