Pioneer Inverter+ Heat Pump - Complete Install and Demo

Today we're performing a complete install and demo of the Pioneer Inverter+ Mini-Split heat pump, model WYS018, including pressure testing and air evacuation.
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Arlington LPCG50-1 Strain Relief Cord Connector: amzn.to/41qIuYH
3D Printable Fiber Cement Mounting Blocks: www.thingiverse.com/thing:601...
Gear Used in Filming:
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Tags: how to install a mini-split, pioneer mini-split, pioneer vs senville, pioneer vs cooper and hunter, should i buy a pioneer mini-split?, heat pump installation, how much electricity does a heat pump use?, how quiet is a mini-split? Can i install a mini-split myself? What tools do i need to install a mini-split?

[@infofree8]

My son and I have installed Two and each time we have had to move the bracket. This made me feel so good that it wasn't me and next time I will remember The half-inch modification. Thank you

[@majorhavoc9693]

How much in what direction?

[@b376010]

@@majorhavoc9693 Read my reply above. Basically the bottom of the exit tube/hole in the wall needs to be almost flush with the bottom of the indoor unit, but not so close that you'll see it after installation.

[@johngalt5504]

The best Pioneer installation and review, and I have watched a bunch.

[@aaronstestlab]

Thank You. Also, I like the username, lol.

[@Notsosamurai1]

If mounted on a slab you don't have airflow from the bottom but on a wall mount you do.

[@ourme2]

Excellent video! Thank you for taking the time for a thorough install explanation and review! Like you mentioned, some of us do the vacuuming using a digital gauge, and I have always used a valve core removal tool which makes the process quite a bit quicker. Once you have reached and can hold a deep vacuum of at least 200ppm for about 15 minutes, open the gas and liquid lines to charge the system and then replace the valve core, and since you already have a pressurized system, the tiny amount of air that would be introduced in the service valve while replacing the valve core gets purged out when you remove the core removal tool. I charged up my 3-zone system in about 2 hours with this system, because the vacuuming takes 15 min when you remove the valve cores. Pioneer are my favorite split AC systems👌

[@b376010]

Great review, I'm working on installing two 18k btu's myself. I just want to say that the template IS off. The hole for the pipes needs to be about 1/4" lower for the unit to sit flush on the wall, otherwise the hoses bind up between the blower unit and the wall. On mine, there is also a hard foam block where the hoses exit that keeps them from sitting down flush into the unit. I removed and trimmed the foam block a bit. The tube location can be be checked by sitting the indoor unit face down on the floor (on a blanket or towel) and slide the supplied 2.5" plastic tube (which I also didn't use as it's very flimsy) until it's flush against the back of the unit. You'll see that the side space is correct at about 1/2" but the bottom space is almost flush with the bottom edge of the unit, especially when you try routing the drain line at the bottom. I hope this explains the problem and solution.

[@aaronstestlab]

Thanks for verifying I'm not crazy, lol

[@infofree8]

" 2.5" plastic tube" What did you use instead of the included flimsy line?

[@Bob-rn8eu]

Great overview of the Pioneer unit and the installation procedure. I will be Installing one of the Pioneer 18000 btu units myself shortly. Thank you for your time posting this video.

[@aaronstestlab]

Nice. This thing hasn't missed a beat all summer. I think you'll be happy with it.

[@pn3751]

Very spot on review. Thank you Aaron.

[@cyclopentadiol2923]

Your video has certainly helped answer some questions I had about installing my own mini splits. I wasn't sure how bending the head unit pipes 90 degrees wasn't going to cause kinks to form. The spiraled pipe now makes much more sense to me. After doing a lot of research and talking with a person who used to work for the company that installed my first mini split several years ago, I would rather buy a top quality product and void warranty versus getting sub-par product with a perceived warranty. That statement from Pioneer is so full of loopholes for Lawyers that I can't imagine any warranty support will be honored without extensive headaches. Based on quotes (even the guy who I spoke with who is now an independent electrician/HVAC contractor) I can literally buy 2 mini splits and the equipment needed (good vacuum pump, CRT's, hoses, nitrogen bottle, outdoor mounts, line sets/covers, etc.) for the price of one full install by a contractor. They try to make it seem scary because you are dealing with dangerous refrigerants under pressure that might damage you, your property, or the environment. What it truly boils down to is using the correct equipment in a safe and per instructions manner. The servicing and install of these systems isn't rocket science, the physics of how they transfer heat is, and contractors just have a basic understanding of this information. I'm willing to bet 80% of them wouldn't be able to explain PV = nRT which is necessary to understand before even getting into refrigerant properties. As others mentioned, a $70 CRT would have made your vacuum procedure 1000 times easier, along with a $200 digital vacuum gauge to verify you were sub 500 microns after the decay test.

[@aaronstestlab]

I tend to agree with your sentiments regarding the value of an in-tact warranty after having a year to think about it. Not because I think Pioneer would engage expensive lawyers to avoid sending out a cheap part, but because that cheap part(if it's any part that touches refrigerant) is likely not useful to the DIY'er. However, I disagree with the general notion that just because something isn't top of the line, it's "sub-par." I don't think GM products are as good as those made by Honda, but that doesn't then mean I think GM products are sub-par. Just different points on a wide quality spectrum.

[@dangerdoberman]

Whoa. That's really great.

[@aaronstestlab]

Thanks!

[@stoneyswolf]

The reason for mounting it farther away when it's on the ground is simple. Because now you'll only have 3 sides to draw in air and you'll need to compensate for that.

[@aaronstestlab]

Pioneer Inverter+ Heat Pump at Amazon(sponsored): amzn.to/3KmIzGd Manifold Gauges: amzn.to/3zLeMSr Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/3ZUWAR5 Flaring Tool: amzn.to/3o5g3RJ Tubing Cutter: amzn.to/3KNavV3 Wall Bracket: amzn.to/40UW3jy Lineset Cover: amzn.to/3KNg6KS Tubing Benders: amzn.to/3zLf1wP Lineset Tape: amzn.to/3KNaRel Arlington LPCG50-1 Strain Relief Cord Connector: amzn.to/41qIuYH As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

[@dannygarcia8012]

Thanks for making the time to make this video, it's been very helpful! Quick question: Did you use a 20amp single-pole or double-pole breaker or something else?

[@dannygarcia8012]

Looks like a double-pole breaker @22:47. What amperage? From my research I've come to either a 20 or 15 amp requirement.

[@aaronstestlab]

So there's actually two numbers. First, is the minimum circuit ampacity, which is what the machine requires to run. I think mine was 15-amp. Then, there's the maximum overcurrent protection, this is the max size breaker(or fused disconnect) to be used in order to protect the motor. In practice, this means you need either a 15 or 20 amp breaker iirc.

[@michaeltemple8333]

Best install video on a Pioneer unit by far. Well done.

[@aaronstestlab]

Thanks, appreciate it.

[@bigfranksworld]

Great review and information. I'm eithre going to purchase this unit in 12000BTU's, or the Tosot 12000BTU unit. Both seem well made. Either way, i have found your .STL files and will purchase the same A/C disconnect, and print the files out. Thanks for all you work on this.

[@aaronstestlab]

Probably can't go won't with either. I think Tosot is a subsidiary of Gree which makes great units. I just found Pioneer's tech support to be exceptionally helpful so that's what pushed me in that direction.

[@bigfranksworld]

@@aaronstestlab great info, thanks!

[@uwsome1]

I have one off each Tosot 9000 and Pioneer 18000

[@jkjwf]

What do you mean about making flare connections inside on right side?

[@rodneybracken4860]

The manufacturer instructions actually tell you to release 5 seconds of the gas at 1/4 turn open prior to disconnecting the vac lines.

[@ourme2]

I think they may mean that, when releasing the refrigerant to charge up the system, to open the gas line for 5 seconds, close it and then open the liquid line to full, then open the gas to full. You can lose enough refrigerant in 5 seconds releasing it to the outside that may leave your system running short if you are running 25ft lines or longer.

[@pacospete4299]

Crows foot adapter used at 90 degrees ...... why 90 degrees ? i think I may know but I need confirmation ........ excellent video , I passed it on to my sons , Thank You !!!

[@jerrydavis3462]

Gave some thought to space behind the outside unit and I think it needs less space if it can pull ventilation air from under the unit which if slab mounted that air is unavailable!

[@aaronstestlab]

That sounds correct. The manufacturer actually commented somewhere on this video and referenced additional clearance from accumulated yard debris(leaves, etc.)

[@infofree8]

I Found better results if I file the lines after cutting them reducing any possibility of Burs damaging the face. Also I have added FlareSeal® Model MSP-0408 Leak Free SAE Flare Connections - Refrigerant Leaks Refrigeration, HVAC, Ductless, Schrader Valve or Mini Split Applications (1/4", Mini Split Pack - (2) 1/4" and (2) 1/2") . To make sure that there is no leakage.

[@b376010]

Pioneer now includes the flare seals in their kits, at least they were in mine.

[@JamesTaylor-dq3fs]

Howdy, I imagine that the space difference between slab and mounting rack would be airflow.

[@jcchan08]

This is correct if you mount it on the wall it allows for the unit to pull air from beneath the unit. Personally I prefer slab mounting to avoid any more penetrations to a building but you mounted to the foundation which is just as good

[@Prowlerook]

Snow is the reason for diff clearances on ground VS up on bracket :) PS: I bought a DELLA 9000 btu it is made by Pioneer I believe

[@aaronstestlab]

I don't think Pioneer makes Pioneer. Seems to me there are a lot of units from Della, Senville, Cooper & Hunter, Pioneer, Klimaire, etc. that all look identical.

[@Thomas-wn7cl]

Did you adjust the torque spec on your torque wrench for the crow's foot? If so, by how much? I have a similar set up and am planning on doing an install soon. Great well thought out video.

[@aaronstestlab]

You don't need to adjust the torque value when using a crowfoot adapter, provided the adapter is perpendicular to the wrench. If in line with it, that's when you need to make adjustments. BTW, Tekton has a nice calculator for this purpose: www.tekton.com/blog/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench

[@Thomas-wn7cl]

@@aaronstestlab thanks for that

[@beebop9808]

Only complaint I have is the 2 1/5" wall opening for the line set. 3 would be much better. And the AC terminals on the condenser are as lame as they get. They are bare bones minimum in size and the terminal board is as wimpy as a slice of cheese. Do not plan on running solid copper conductors. You will be hating life. That said, use some 10ga stranded wire and it'll be fine. Love the mini split as a whole. Been doing an amazing job for me. Lot of bang for the buck as I see it.

[@mattjudd5275]

Mine doesn't have the resonance sound. If on the ground probably wouldn't be present. Also, install the wifi module and it's way easier to control. My remote had to be working 8 feet and wouldn't move the temperature above or below certain amounts in cool and heat mode

[@aaronstestlab]

I agree, the wifi module is worth it's $30'ish price tag. Purchased it about a month after install.

[@PennywiseM3]

Do you have a link for the adjustable Crowsfoot that you used for your torque wrench?

[@aaronstestlab]

I made it myself

[@PennywiseM3]

@@aaronstestlab I thoroughly searched the internet and couldn’t find it. Now it makes sense.

[@xinkaiwang]

cool, thanks for sharing those. BTW, where is the link to the 3D printing model file? I think I need one of those as well. :)

[@aaronstestlab]

Thanks for reminding me, forgot to upload, here they are: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6015741

[@rddickman1783]

Your link to Amazon line set covers are shown in WHITE...did you paint yours? I found another seller with grey...looking for grey. But the grey ones, buyers complained the color fades...(I have Rustoleum..LOL)

[@aaronstestlab]

Yes, I painted mine. First used a plastic primer and then top-coated to match my house. Did most of the painting before installing and then just touched up after I mounted everything.

[@HTHAMMACK1]

66 degrees is room temperature to you?

[@tomkalisz]

Can you sell the outside and inside mounting blocks for my system?

[@aaronstestlab]

Maybe...what kind of lap siding do you have?

[@tomkalisz]

I just order the units and will need 4 of those entry points covers. when I will know the exact location will let you know. Thank you.

[@Vanfran2]

I should have bought a Mr Cool. Much easier to install and no need for special equipment

[@aaronstestlab]

Perhaps, but the difference is cost usually exceeds the cost of the tools. Plus, you're then left with a janky looking DIY install with a non-custom lineset.

[@ien2023]

Reason why you need a professional to install.. I don't think the remote gonna work everywhere in the room. I'm confused...so to get an app ready you need to buy a separate adaptor??

[@infofree8]

I have mine Paired up to the Alexa