WEB THINNING VEVOR DRILL GRINDER

[@theElderberryFarmer]

I really enjoy watching your videos, Mr. Pete! I hope you will continue making them. This kind of knowledge isn't passed along in the schools any longer, so you are doing a great service by making it available to folks through KZbin. Take care and God Bless.

[@mrpete222]

More to come!

[@juangonzalez837]

Although o have never even attempted to sharpener a drill bit. This video is very educational. I have learned a lot about the machine and bits. Thx you for proving a well informative video. Please continue to educate us.

[@mrpete222]

Glad you found it helpful

[@yooochoooob]

Great video ! Thanks mrpete222. Out of interest, the MRCM MR-13D has both the Split Pointing and Web Thinning features making it almost identical in functionality to the Motom BSM 13 DUO but for a significantly lower price tag 😉 The Motom comes with a few shim plates which you just pop over the top of the Chuck Ports to quickly make the cuts a little shallower for one-off jobs without the need to fiddle with stop pins or eccentrics which have to be fiddled with again to reset your default settings at the end of such one-off jobs. Apart from that and perhaps the final build quality & finish, functionally the MR-13D and the BSM 13 DUO both do the same operations. Just saying 😎👍

[@mikehinz3096]

Mr. Pete. Thanks for another excellent video! I have the MR-20G which is similar to your 13B model, except it grinds up to 3/4" drills. For all my drills I now grind them all to 135 degrees and split the points. What I've found with the movable pins is their position controls how much is ground away on the heel of the drill. I change the pin position from smaller to larger bits and it seems that a bit more needs to ground away on the larger drills vs the smaller drills. Once you have used split point drills, you'll never go back to any other type!! One comment about hand grinding drills. I know lots of people seem to think they can hand grind drills perfectly well. I say that's not true. My brother worked as a fabricator for over 20 years and can hand grind drills with the best of them, but as he says, 'he can make bits cut', but that's far from satisfactory if you're being critical. I can also hand grind drills successfully, but after grinding all the drills that he and I have (probably more than 500), he and i were both shocked about how uneven most of the hand-ground drills were and how much better they drilled after sharpening on of these machines. The holes were much, much closer to diameter, more even and took much less pressure to drill. Again, an excellent video! Keep up the good work!

[@mrpete222]

👍👍👍👍

[@Jelckeb]

Hello, can the MR-20G do split points?

[@mikehinz3096]

@@Jelckeb Sorry for the late response. I just saw your question. Yes the MR-20G can do split points. It's essentially the same as the 13B model except it handles drills up to 3/4".

[@EdwardLoftis]

@@mikehinz3096 I use 114° regular bits on Aluminum and sheet steel I find the 135° split point bits I have are a bit too aggressive for that type of material

[@tom87pate]

I'm going to buy one of these suckers! I live in West Central Indiana and there's a very large flea market that's open every other weekend. Over the years, I've amassed several hundred good old American made drill bits, but many are dull. The Vevor seems like a better option than the Drill Doctor.

[@chadgriffith5819]

I almost bought this but went with a drill Dr 750. Works great for half the price.

[@joecolanjr.8149]

Good morning to all my MrPete video watching coffee drinkers!! Excellent video MrPete...showing this to the boss on Monday morning...hoping to purchase both of these machines. Thanks!!

[@mwilliamshs]

How are any of Mr Pete's viewers yours?

[@billl7551]

Thanks for the excellent video and instructions. I just purchased the 13B since I thought it was a spare wheel. I used your link for the 13A (Part 2) and Vevor said "sold out". I sharpened some 118 deg from 7/64 up to 1/2" and it is everything I expected in a drill sharpener. So - after thinking I was ready for split-point ( actually web thinning for 13B) I tried sharpening some aircraft cobalt drills that are 135 deg and split points for all #sizes. I started with a #30 12" bit that was known to be dull and left a significant exit burr. Sharpened, then thinned the web on my new 13B. The bit cut like a new one - minor exit burr and way better than the dull point on the same bit!! Now - - I did notice that the chisel tip was split for starting w/o wander, but the angle of the relief (to the drill major axis) was much less than the factory grind. And . . . looking at your split vs thinning, my factor grind is still much greater than the 13A split point in your video. It does not appear that the "depth" adjustment will affect the angle, only the remaining cutting face width. While disappointed (in myself for lack of attention to detail) I did not order the 13A with "split point", I think the "web thinning" version is going to work fine for me. Both reduce the chisel point and can provide relief for cutting face. They are just at a different angle. I'll edit this comment if further inspection of the tips show different.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍👍

[@duron700r]

That was neat! This helped me better understand the old larger bits I picked out of the dumpster and still use.

[@keithschwartz7318]

Good morning Lyle, thanks for this post.

[@jondavidmcnabb]

Wow!!! You are an excellent teacher. This is a solid instructional video.

[@ellieprice363]

Good morning Lyle, You did a good job explaining the fine points of these high quality machines. I’m mighty tempted to purchase 13B just for the pleasure of using it. If not too damaged I touch up my drills with a gage on a 1 x 30 H F belt grinder. I prefer the 135 degree point and sharpen most of my drills to that angle. Web thinning with a thin cut off wheel works best for me. Split point removes too much of the heel, causing drills to be less stable when starting.

[@Keenafy]

Tubalcain still coming with the 🔥🔥💪🏽!!! Thanks for all your many teachings brother. 🙏🏽

[@jeff1176]

For me, in my case, I have a ton of dull drill bits. I need just to sharpen them just so they'll cut once again. Web thinning would be way out of my general use, but the split point feature sounds exactly just what the Dr ordered. I need one of these ASAP. Thanks for the video and explanation. Very informative.

[@drjwrg]

Great video. Since being shown how to sharpen drills using the four facet method I have used that method ever since. It does not require any special machine but will reduce the size of the chisel point on a drill.

[@Duckfarmer27]

Lyle - Another educational and interesting video for Saturday morning coffee. Enjoyed it - and learned a thing or two along the way. My old descriptive geometry prof would have had fun with the adjustments on the pivoting action against the grinding wheel. Kids today can do it much faster with CAD instead of on the board - but I still use the board in my shop. LOL Keep up the interesting videos - but I'm still looking for one on your use of the Diamond tool holder. Love mine but am curious if you have come up with some tricks I have not discovered - which I am sure you have. Enjoy the weekend.

[@erickvond6825]

Truth be told I've been subscribed for a seriously long time now. That said I've had to thin the web or split point by hand using a grinder and a Dremel. You're absolutely right about it being extremely fiddley. I can't tell you how many times I've had to start over by regrinding the tip and then attacking it with a diamond cutting wheel on the Dremel. Such a pain where you sit...

[@JamesErd]

I’ve been keeping my eye out for a dedicated drill sharpener that does a good job but doesn’t break the bank. I see these machines are getting good reviews and yet they are not very expensive when compared to the cost of what I would otherwise spend on drills. It seemed too good to be true and I was skeptical until I saw your review/instructional video. I thought I wanted Mr-13b but since I work almost exclusively with stub length split point drills I will be getting the Mr-13a. Thank you for this video and for that matter the enormous compendium of other videos you have created 😊

[@mrpete222]

I am glad you enjoyed the video and that it helped you make a choice.

[@JamesErd]

@@mrpete222 well the 13a was out of stock so I got the 13b. I’ll see if that diamond wheel fits on my single lip tool grinder. If it does I’ll make a jig for the collet holder and do my split points there.

[@jlawlar]

Great video. Some of the best lessons on KZbin, God bless you Mr pete

[@mrpete222]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@100yojimbo]

Excellent demonstration and explanation of splitting the point and web thinning, learnt a lot watching this. Thanks Mrpete 👍👍👍👍👍

[@mrpete222]

Glad it was helpful!

[@nomercadies]

Morning Lyle. Love your studio.

[@Ed_Stoddard]

Thank you so much Mr. Pete. I watched you original videos on these sharpeners but hadn't decided to take the leap or which one to buy. I just ordered the 13B model for my hundreds of drill bits. My old Drill Doctor will go to a new home.

[@mrpete222]

Excellent!

[@douglasbollinger8678]

Great video! Excellent photography and taking the time to dig out the diagrams from the old Cleveland literature really helped get "the point" across. I would imagine creating these types of instructional videos are 7X more effort than a tool auction tour but it is appreciated! You know, whenever anyone posts one of these drill grinder videos there are always plenty of posts decrying the need of such a device as they (the decryers) are 90+ years old and yet can still easily grind an accurate 1/16" drill bit. Surprisingly, whenever I buy a used drill at the auction, which are usually a larger MT2 taper drills, it always looks like it was chewed-off by a rabid bionic beaver.

[@mrpete222]

You are right, it is 100 times harder to make the step of video over an auction video. That’s why I am making so few, and then no one watches them, lol. Yes, when I buy used drills, I cannot believe how poorly they have been sharpened, or should I say dulled

[@georgesweap7]

Spending a year in the tool room during my 4 year apprenticeship back in the early 1970’s, I learnt how to web thin and split points on drills by hand, sharpen milling cutters, end mills, reamers, and even taps and dies on the grinders. You had to learn how to grind any cutting tool or have the tool room foreman up your rear. Those old machinist treated the young apprentices like dirt and you learned to live with it. After 40 plus years as a journeyman, I could sharpen a drill by hand faster than using the grinder thanks to that old timer in the tool room.

[@chessyman6973]

What is not clear to me is when should a drill bit be split pointed and when should a drill bit be web thinned? Which is prefered? Is one better than the other for certaing applications?

[@bradjohnson9671]

Lyle, thanks for the fantastic video. I currently have a Drill Dr, I've used it for years. Got it for a Fathers Day gift from my bride of 45 years. I have used it a TON of times, it works great. I've always ground them at 118 degrees, never tried the 135 option, I think I'll give it a try. Once I learned about split points many years ago, I've split every bit I have. I think I'll seriously consider picking up the split point version, looks like it would do a better job on larger bits.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍👍

[@brianbowman5402]

Yes, your earlier vid motivated me to get the 13A. Can you split point a 118 deg bit rather than the 135?

[@davidmiskinis3032]

Hollo Mr. Pete! Thanks for the video, I've been waiting for your comparison video so I can purchase one of these units. (FYI, I worked 43 years as a drill, tap, and endmill technical specialist for GTD, which bought CTD, which was later purchased by Kennametal, so I have a pretty good idea how these should look. FYI, CTD was purchased by a Chinese company in 2009, which now goes by the name Greenfield Ind.) Based upon your video, I can't see that there is much of a difference in the grinds, so I'm not sure why "Spitting" vs. "Thinning". In the case of 13A (at 8:57) it doesn't appear to have split all the way to the chisel, leaving some of the original chisel, which can be considered a highly negative rake. This is probably just a setting of the infamous knob! (In my training classes, I told them that a drill chisel is like drilling with a cold chisel!!!) The true value of the split is the approx. 5° positive rake in the "split chisel", leaving only a few thousandths of the original chisel at the center. This is where the REAL starting and thrust reduction occurs! If you can't achieve the positive rake, you won't get the full advantage! Where I'm confused is that the 13B seems to be producing a similar split (12:04), only this time grinding off the back corner of the wheel, rather than the front corner, and this appears to be producing more of a radius in the split! As for true thinning, "Use and Care", figs. 30-32 shows it very well. It's the reproduction of the original grind, reducing the web thickness. Notice the face grind under the cutting lip. They probably call 13B "Web Thinning" because the twisting motion doesn't give you a two-facet flat grind with a sharp corner!?! My preference is the machine that comes closest to figure 34, a true split.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you for a very interesting comment with lots of great information. I hope others read your comment.

[@DetroitDiesel671]

Pretty sure my MR-13B splits points, that's what the 5 different holes for the two pins are for. The results, to me, are indistinguishable from a factory 135 degree split point. If the MR-13A model is doing something different, I'd like to see a comparison between a bit split on the A, and the 4 different pin positions on the B.

[@andreas6320]

Split point is a variation of web thinning. The MR-13B can easily be adjusted so that you get the four cutting edges of a split point. The MR-13B has one very important feature that is missing on the MR-13A. For an accurate split point is essential that the center of the drill chuck is exactly in line with the edge of the grinding wheel. On the 13B this is adjustable.

[@DetroitDiesel671]

@@andreas6320 Ah yes, that makes sense. Thanks for the info!

[@neffk]

The diamond wheel is nice for carbide hole-starting drills. I haven't graduated to many other carbide drills but maybe someday.

[@jimfiles3307]

I bought the 13B following the first video, excited about end mill sharpening. As Mr. Pete’s videos continued, I learned that the 13B DOES NOT SHARPEN END MILLS. Now this morning’s video has me thinking that I bought the wrong grinder. I probably should have bought the 13A so that I can do split point. Thank you Lyle for going into detail and explaining the difference in these two machines. As a visual aid I would have taken the drill and either use a sharpie or dykem to coat the tip after the first grind, then the split point would be easier to see. Thanks again for the educational videos.

[@CapablePimento]

Just to clarify, do you mean that the 13a CAN do end mills, or neither can so you wish you had the ability to split point? I want to get one, not sure which is best.

[@jimfiles3307]

Neither one does end mills according to Mr. Pete. I emailed him after I bought the 13B, and asked him when he was going to show how to sharpen end mills and he replied that it was false advertising.

[@jimfiles3307]

I am now leaning towards the 13A. I will do some research before deciding whether to exchange it. I want to watch additional videos.

[@douglasbollinger8678]

My Drill Doctor can do split points but I never seen much of an improvement and you eventually waste more of the drill. I think web thinning is better as you get the same advantage of the narrow chisel point without grinding so much of the drill away.

[@jimfiles3307]

I unboxed the 13B and tried it out on a 1/2” drill, sharpening was perfect but attempting to split point is useless. It cuts a groove on the back end of the flute that is nothing like a split point. I believe the 13-A is exactly what everyone wants.

[@markfinkel1761]

Enjoyable video as usual. I always learn something watching your vids. Bought one of the yellow models last year & have yet to take it out of the box. Haven't needed to sharpen anything quite yet, but sure I'll get there soon.

[@Don458Lott]

QUESTIONS: 1) Have you sharpened left handed drill bits (web thin and chisel point)? 2) Have you sharpened silver & deming drill bits (say a 1-27/64 inch as they are very expensive and used for large taps {3/4 inch bits and larger as chucks usually are not that big})? GREAT VIDEO>>>PLEASE KEEP MAKING THEM DON B.

[@mrpete222]

No, I have never sharpened the left hand drill. And this drill grinder has a capacity of 1/2 inch

[@richardrogers567]

Thanks for the tip on these grinders. Always enjoy your videos.

[@Jelckeb]

Hello Mr Pete, thanks for all the good info. I bought the Vevor MR-20G model and it can do drills upto 20mm. Which is quite nice. It does web thinning to but not point splitting. (And it's more. Expensive).

[@mrpete222]

I was thinking about asking for one of those for larger bits

[@hey.you.in.the.bushes]

Thank you thank you. I have been trying to figure out the difference

[@mrpete222]

You are so welcome

[@ypaulbrown]

always wonderful Lyle.......I have a Black Diamond drill bit sharpening machine.... I always thought it was a pain to split the point....so I do not even try...... thanks for this wonderful bit of information, cheers from Florida, Paul

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@richardockman5988]

Good video,iam very tempted to to buy one of these to replace my Drill Doctor.Thanks for all your video's.

[@bcbloc02]

My spiral points are difficult to grind correct but mad do they work!

[@B.Campbell-gg2ri]

Thank you Mr. Pete for continuing your education profession. I love the topic of machine shop methods and practices and I have learned a lot from your work. I was curious if you or any of your subscribers have experience with how long (number of drill bits) the grinding wheels on the Vevor drill bit sharpening units last? Where can replacement grinding wheels be purchased from?

[@mrpete222]

Only time will tell how long the grinding wheels last. New wheels can be purchased from the website marked on the riding wheel.

[@freds4703]

Other reviews of 13B show splitting of point. I will try to find it again and post link.

[@psilocin6739]

If anyone is interested in web thinning or split pointing bits by hand, it is possible with a dremel and a diamond cutting wheel (or abrasive cut off wheel). It takes practice but can be done if you have patience.

[@freds4703]

In all videos about this machine I have never seen a demo of what the rear knob on 13B does and how to do it. Can you show?

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

They drill faster when they are split point. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

[@alansvanes8479]

Thanks for the video I’m going to buy the grinder. I’m going to buy the more expensive one mainly for the diamond wheel.

[@fredflintstone8048]

Great demonstration. Thank you for sharing.

[@be007]

mrpete, for splitpointing you must change the setting with the knob because when you splitpointing a 13mm drill perfect, and after you want to splitpoint a 6mm drill, it will do nothing on the 6mm drill, try it and you will see. i will explain, every time the drill diameter get smaller, the further you get away from the grinding disc. this is only with splitpointing and maybe a little bit with web thinning. is this clear as mud ? cheers ben.

[@user-xr8hu8kv1f]

Please show sharpening smaller drills.

[@philanderingwhitecollartra8281]

yep much better than a drill doctor.. but those work too.. as twiddley as it may be

[@sloprun]

Excellent video, but I am confused: Which is better for drilling, thinning the web or cutting a split point? From the video and what I have read on the internet, it seems there are two different means to the same end.

[@danielwestbrook6407]

Mr.Pete,Thankyou for your videos I bought the mr13b. I saw on temo or Ali that they have it but I imagine it’s a copy.Just curious have you heard anything about the quality of those units.Thanks again

[@mrpete222]

No, I have not

[@chrisbrady-t1u]

OK,we're sold. Now how about another boyhood prank story?You rural guys usually have at least one involving an outhouse.You know,it was Halloween night when we saw mean ol' Mr. Sneed go into his outhouse....

[@donaldburg7532]

Mr pete, correct me if I'm wrong but,it looked like web thinning created a pretty good split point, or you can you elaborate on the difference between web thinning and a split point as to what I might be missing.thx for the reply.

[@mrpete222]

I thought I covered that and one of the videos

[@donaldburg7532]

@@mrpete222 thanks for the reply Pete, I did find the information I was looking for, if you go down far enough on a webbing cut, it will create a split point ,on this video when you did the web at thinning it created a split point . I was confused at that point .

[@JoesAutoElectric]

I have a machine made by MARCM, which is the MR-13D model. It has two holes on the top, similar to the one in the video you reference. Similar, but not the same. It seems to work, but the instructions are terrible. The one thing that I find rather confusing is on the model you show, the bit is dropped straight down without turning. On mine, it says to turn it. I wish they would send you this model to test. I'd like to get your input on the unit.

[@mrpete222]

Sorry, I am not familiar with that model

[@erik_dk842]

Isn't it MRCM by ZJMRCM?

[@MF175mp]

135 degrees has actually a "duller" angle than 118. The angle gets pointier when the number gets smaller. 180 degrees would be a flat bottom drill

[@randywl8925]

......not remotely close to a flat bottom girl. 😂

[@markmurto]

So which is a better cut. Web thinning or split point? I am under the impression all 135° bits need a split point and only is optional on a 118° point.

[@berntsteinmetz8564]

well done sir !

[@CapablePimento]

⁠​⁠@mrpete222 So the elephant in the room…do I want split points or thinned webs? If only one, which one

[@ltdeditions]

That's the question I've been asking. The machine Stephan uses has both, so I'd guess they both serve a purpose? When I searched online, I found an article that basically stated that they're more or less the same, but a split point is easier to do freehanded. I bought the 13B model some weeks ago and it does a good job. The drills I sharpened work perfect again. And I got the extra (diamond) disk. So I'm happy with my purchase.

[@slhasebroock]

What about the VEVOR MR-20G? More sizes and more split point/web thinning type options?

[@markmurto]

The 20G does up to 20mm bits, but has only one top port. The 13D has both top ports, but limited to 13mm. The Motom can cut to 20mm and has both top ports. I'd love to get a Motom. You can buy collets for the 13D for bigger bits though, I think.

[@angelramos-2005]

Great video,mrpete.Thank you.

[@Tbm-ov5ky]

Is the Motom BSM 13 the machine that these and other nearly identical machines are knockoff's of?

[@adamtabbit]

Hello, mrcm 13d does all three and its the same machine as yours, cheers

[@MC-wh6xk]

Well darn, I bought the 13B a few days ago. Now I want the one Stephan showed. Lol

[@mrpete222]

Me too, but it is well over $1000 and not available in this country

[@ltdeditions]

There's a tool company in Holland that sells the Chinese equivalent of the machine he has. A lot cheaper, but still almost 50% more expensive than the machines that only have the web thinning or the split point option. I wonder why that is. It doesn't look like it would be so much more expensive to make a machine that has both.

[@alexkepa12]

You did not say when or how to use that second wheel did you or did I miss it

[@mikem5043]

I'm still confused as the difference between split and web thinning. It looked like they were both doing the same thing

[@markmurto]

Go for the 13D model and get both ports. Why buy rwo machines?

[@cristianabarsuglia629]

i bought a model 13B, is that dust collector commercially available?

[@jerrydemas2020]

Thanks much for the explanation

[@edl5074]

Great little machine !!

[@erik_dk842]

I'd like to see the drills actually drill and see the difference between the two

[@rlsimpso]

That is so much faster than my drill physician 😂. I have sharpened enough drills with It that I am on the second chuck.

[@adnacraigo6590]

Learned a lot. Thanks.

[@stevedavey1343]

Great video, MrPete. As usual, you live up to your high standards of educational content *and* entertainment. Sadly, none of the three models, not even the yellow one, is available on the Vevor UK site. In fact, Vevor (possibly with good reason; people in the US bemoan the loss of practical skills in the youth, they'd have a heart attack if they saw the state of things in the UK 😢) really don't offer much in the way of machining equipment on their UK site. Some might argue that's a bit of a blessing as their mini-lathe offerings (which seem to have been taken from the scrap bins of the major Chinese manufacturers) are less available here, too 😅. Shame, though, because Vevor's tooling and workholding and accessories do seem to be decent quality at really good prices. Vevor seem to like you, MrPete so maybe you could have a word in their shell-likes and get them to extend their UK catalogue. 😉 Anyway, thank you for these videos; you're an absolute treasure. Whenever I watch any of your content, I always come away reflecting that the Almighty had a good day in the shop when he made you. 😉😊 Chees A fan from good ol' Blighty 😊

[@jimforsyth2.]

Can you thin the web and then split the point

[@stevenhintz5508]

Mr Pete, if you had to buy one of these machines, which one would you get?

[@ikeurb]

Same question: Which would be best for home hobbyists machine shop use, split point or web thinning?

[@garychaiken808]

Great job. Thank you 😊

[@the4thj]

I a larger chisel better? I'd buy one of those if I hadn't lost my yob

[@jacquesjodoin1948]

16:26

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@pbooth001]

I learned a lot.

[@jimkim6389]

Good video. Thanks

[@rufustoad1]

Absolute shame these cant sharpen end mills they would be worth gold

[@freds4703]

Here is the link about the 13B splitting the point. Starts about 16 minute mark. Am I missing something? I am a novice to drill bits. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGTPeKxmotKGZ8ksi=aDPKvzDrctzadbzL

[@jmew1922]

im sorry but ive always done drill sharpening free hand and split pointing, ok ive had 60 years to get it right

[@bheckel1]

They should also pay you money for this video. If someone can not use the machines after these videos, they probably can not drill holes in metal anyway.

[@mrpete222]

😄😄

[@EdwardLoftis]

I use the 750 Drill Doctor works great.

[@bpark10001]

The waterloo in any of these machines is "timing" the drill in the initial setup fixture. I had an old, expensive, Darex machine & that was a never ending problem because the back of the drill bit is not accessible during the setup. (You have to rotate the chuck clockwise to rotate the drill against the stop.) Drill Doctor is much better (despite the cheaper plastic parts) with its twin paddles & the ability to grab the back end of the drill bit during the setup. The Vevor looks like it is not as good as the Drill Doctor in this respect as you have to torque drill against a stop while tightening a separate nut. All of these machines demand setting "light drag fit" in a highly rigid setup, not really practical to do! What there should be is drill tightened firmly in collet, then whole collet assembly should rotate in separate coaxial friction-sleeve, which is adjusted & tightened when the drill is properly timed.

[@mrpete222]

agreed

[@Ray-r5j9u]

🖖

[@drummer57]

Vevor tool are junk customer service stinks save your money

[@davidt8438]

I’d have to disagree. I have the model 13b and all the parts are tight and accurate. I’ve sharpened over a dozen bits ranging from 3/32 to 1/2” and they’ve all come out beautifully sharpened. Test cuts indicate accurate holes and easy drilling through both wood and mild steel so far. I did have two collets that were the same size but after showing proof of the problem they sent me a replacement within a week. No problem. My only issue would be that they don’t make or sell replacement parts, so that could be a concern later on.

[@stevedavey1343]

The problem you have is you're tarring all their products with the same brush. A lot of their tooling and accessory offerings are really quite decent at reasonably keen prices. Their mini-lathes and bench lathes are generally really not great, of course, and make the Seig and Real Bull models look like Schaublins in comparison 😅 but Vevor do sell reasonably good tooling and accessories for their price. Of course, buying any Chinese products has its own downsides, taking a wider view but, eh, blame greedy Western corporations for the loss of affordable good quality products made in the West.

[@jondavidmcnabb]

Depends on the tool. Customer Service sucks with every large company welcome to the modern world buddy.