#MT49

Making a Jerry Howell V-twin IC Engine.
In this video, part 22 of the series, I set up the carbs.
If you can offer me any help or advice, please leave a comment.
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Backing track credits......
Music: (intro) Water Lily by the 126ers - KZbin Audio Library
WARNING: Metal turning can be dangerous! I am not sure whether the methods I use are established ones, and I do not recommend them.
Please do not copy me without doing your own risk assessments!
You are responsible for your safety - not me!

[@daveticehurst4191]

Hi Andrew I really "Feel" for you with that wonderful engine not running after so much work that you have put into it. It' not as thought this is your first engine, so you know what you are doing. I bet in the end it will be something silly you have done when assembling or timing it. Don't lose heart, have a break from it and who know when you pick it up next you will say "AH, I know what the trouble is" and fix it in a trice. Enjoy your Break. Regards from Australia.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Dave - thanks for the encouragement! After some investigation I suspect valve seats might be one of the problems. Under test conditions with my compressor there is a very slight leak on both intake valves. I've tried lapping with 500 and 1000 grits but I can't get them perfect. I wasn't happy with the design in the first place as it suggests mild steel (which I used) for the valve guides, rather than the usual phosphor bronze. More testing needed though before I rip them out of the head. My 95 year old mother-in-law takes a keen interest in my engines and I had hopoed to get this one running when she visits today. A good excuse to get one of the others out instead. She is interested to find out what a Quorn is too! All the best. Andrew

[@timjoinson7232]

Oh I could feel the frustration. We have all been there. Time away to think it through is definitely a good policy. I am sure you will work it out and get the engine running.

[@georgeclements2742]

Hello Andrew, I was going to ask you the same question as Chris Armstrong regarding the use of studs in the cylinder heads and nuts to hold the carburettor flanges on. I sympathise with you about the teething problems but, as you say, they are virtually unavoidable. I also loved seeing you dear dog's very bored demeanour when you were playing with your other engines. Best wishes.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi George - yeah I did consider studs but decided not to in the end. Maybe not the best of decisions but it works okay. My dog must be fed up of me tinkering with things and making loud noises. He's seen it all before. The heat doesn't help either. All the best. Andrew

[@Mister_G]

Excellent - stick with it, and it will run.

[@kiq4767]

Very interesting

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Very nice work

[@andrewthick185]

Dear Andrew, Thank you for showing us all the trials and tribulations on making stuff work. A good nights sleep is always a good remedy. A little meditation on the problem does wonders for our ingenuity. Best regards.

[@kenwood8665]

Cracking video

[@MauriceKelly11]

Nearly there Andrew. The tank level needs to be set such that fuel level is just slightly below jet elevation in carburettor. I built the level regulator but never used it. My experience is the engine is very sensitive to throttle position, had one hand on drill & used other to adjust throttle as I was trying to start. Inlet valve sealing is critical, caused me a lot of problems. Looking forward to seeing it running.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Maurice. I must say that I'm struggling at the moment. I have a very slight leak on both inlet valves. Tried 500 and 1000 grit but I can't get them perfect. I might replace the valve guides with phosphor bronze ones. I also think I might have bad sealing between heads and cylinders. With the flywheel rotating anticlockwise I've tightened a larger nut against the smaller one to try to start it with a drill. One cylinder springs to life which immediately unscrews the locking nut. What starting method did you use? Cheers Andrew

[@MauriceKelly11]

Andrew, I cut a keyway on crankshaft to flywheel. This stops flywheel rotation. I then use an electric drill like you. When you try starting, if the carburetors are "spitting", it indicates a passing inlet valve. I did struggle with one of the inlet valves sealing, still not 100%.

[@learningturningmetal]

@@MauriceKelly11 thanks for the advice 👍

[@davemason6273]

Hi Andrew, gravity's not your friend where fuelling is concerned. I think cylinder 2 might be blowing the fuel back rather than sucking it in, that'll be valve timing. When you injected it into the air intake it blew back to the fuel tank.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Dave - well spotted. I found that the intake valve on cylinder 2 had a piece of grit under it preventing it from closing - so absolutely no compression on that side. I've done some more tests and I can see that both intake valves have a very slight leak under pressure using my compressor. I was never happy with the original design which suggested mild steel (which I used) for the valve guides, rather than the more common phosphor bronze. More lapping and testing before I rip them out of the head! Cheers Andrew

[@OL6162.]

Hi ANDREW I have no doubt that in the next video the V twin will run like as Swiss clock 😉 👍👍👍👍👍 Enjoy your few days off.. BFN OL6162

[@learningturningmetal]

Ha ha - more like a three-legged dog! Cheers Andrew

[@taranson3057]

Exciting stuff getting the engine running

[@lesstoneuk]

You'll get it Andrew, you're a Yorkshireman, you'll not let this go until its right. Fantastic seeing the singles running. Now you've done singles and a twin, time for a Clerget or Le Rhone rotary perhaps. Lol, I'm kidding

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Andrew, it was so close to running on one cylinder, it will be interesting to see where the fuel went, hopefully not in the crankcase, love watching the other engine builds run, great job mate, cheers

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Matty. All the best. Andrew

[@Engineerd3d]

Lovely group of engines you have. Awesome work. I am sure your going to figure out the vee twin and make that run like a Swiss watch.

[@tosselton291]

I saw gas spurting out of the filler cap like it was under pressure at 12:17 that shouldn't happen on a gravity fed system.

[@learningturningmetal]

Well spotted! I found that the intake valve on cylinder 2 had a piece of grit under it preventing it from closing - so absolutely no compression on that side. I've done some more tests and I can see that both intake valves have a very slight leak under pressure using my compressor. I was never happy with the original design which suggested mild steel (which I used) for the valve guides, rather than the more common phosphor bronze. More lapping and testing before I rip them out of the head! Cheers Andrew

[@chrisarmstrong8198]

Could you not have loctited 2 studs into the cylinder head for each carby and secure them with nuts ? (The video implies you have effectively used 2 hex-head screws.)

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Chris - yeah I did consider studs but decided not to in the end. Maybe not the best of decisions but it works okay. Cheers Andrew

[@RB-yq7qv]

😀😀😀😀😀

[@mrc1539]

I’m sure you will get the bugs worked out and that engine will run fine. Probably some silly little thing you overlooked. 🤔. Absolutely loved seeing your other Engines run. Best to you from the left coast USA . 😊.

[@Steviegtr52]

Hi Andrew. I would think 1st off is that the engine should be timed at around 5 degrees before top dead centre & not after. Also as you stated the fuel tank is too high. Maybe the No 1 cylinder needs the compression checking or the carb stripping to see if it has a blockage somewhere. I am in Awe of the build you have done & cannot wait to see it finaly run. Great video as always. Regards. Steve.

[@raymondmurray3447]

I'd agree with 5° before TDC, but if your instructions say otherwise, I'm baffled.

[@simonbirt6121]

Perhaps studs to hold the carbs on?

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Simon - yeah I did consider studs but decided not to in the end. Maybe not the best of decisions but it works okay. Cheers Andrew

[@grntitan1]

Make sure to check your valve lash.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi - I found that the intake valve on cylinder 2 had a piece of grit under it preventing it from closing - so absolutely no compression on that side. I've done some more tests and I can see that both intake valves have a very slight leak under pressure using my compressor. I was never happy with the original design which suggested mild steel (which I used) for the valve guides, rather than the more common phosphor bronze. More lapping and testing before I rip them out of the head! Cheers Andrew

[@tsheritageengineering]

A bit of exhaust back pressure might help.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Tony - very good point. I was/am trying to rush things a little bit. My 95 year old mother-in-law takes a keen interest in the engines I make and I was trying to get this one running in time for when she visits today. Also, on investigation, I found that the intake valve on cylinder 2 had a piece of grit under it preventing it from closing - so absolutely no compression on that side. I've done some more tests and I can see that both intake valves have a very slight leak under pressure using my compressor. I was never happy with the original design which suggested mild steel (which I used) for the valve guides, rather than the more common phosphor bronze. More lapping and testing before I rip them out of the head! Cheers Andrew

[@tsheritageengineering]

Having similar problems with my Wyvern, sure its the carb, Westbury's design is awkward so I think I might build a Jerry Howell one.

[@learningturningmetal]

@@tsheritageengineering I have a JH two jet carb on my Hoglet v-twin. You are welcome to borrow that to see if it works on the Wyvern. I've also got a carb for an aero engine which you cound try (and keep if it works for you).

[@tsheritageengineering]

Thank you, I'll probably be in touch if I can't sort out the Westbury carb!@@learningturningmetal