#MT56

Making an Upshur Opposed Twin IC Engine. In this video, part 1 of the series, I make the crankcase.
I hope some of you will follow along with my new engine build. Maybe some of you will have a go at making one too.
The drawings and build instructions are detailed in Model Engine Builder Magazine Issues 7 and 8. These can still be purchased on-line for a small fee:
www.modelenginebuilder.com/st...
If you can offer me any help or advice, please leave a comment.
I hope some of my videos help inspire others to venture into model engineering.
If you would like to keep informed of my new videos, please subscribe.
If you find my videos of value you could always help me continue making them by making a small donation at:
paypal.me/AndrewWhale
If you have any private questions/advice you can contact me via email at [e-mail]
Cheers!
Backing track credits......
Music: (intro) Water Lily by the 126ers - KZbin Audio Library
WARNING: Metal turning can be dangerous! I am not sure whether the methods I use are established ones, and I do not recommend them.
Please do not copy me without doing your own risk assessments!
You are responsible for your safety - not me!

[@mrc1539]

Andrew, you need to get some heat in your workshop , I got the chills watching your video 🥶 !

[@learningturningmetal]

Ha ha - roll on Spring! Happy Christmas!

[@Rustinox]

The crankcase looks very promesing. This build will be very interesting to follow.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks mate!

[@philipgeorge5708]

Thought your recovery from the broken tap was brilliant Andrew.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Philip!

[@be007]

nice new project andrew ! see you at the next vid, cheers ben.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Ben!

[@Mister_G]

Mr Whale, you're spoiling us! Another build so soon - Thank you : )

[@learningturningmetal]

Ha ha - thanks mate!

[@garybodnar1085]

Back on board Andrew, love the little engine, and I brought the MEB mags, 7-8m, following along closely, PS, love your little rotary display table :) Gary.

[@learningturningmetal]

Brilliant Gary!

[@Engineerd3d]

Awesome work as always. Splendid recovery of the broken tap. Stay warm!

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks mate!🥶

[@matts_shed]

Good to see you've got a new project. And I've got a new series to watch! Personally, I love being in my workshop when it's raining outside! Thanks for sharing.

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Andrew, great start on the new build, nothing worse then a broken tap, great job mate, cheers

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Matty! All the best. Andrew

[@daveticehurst4191]

Looking Good Andrew. PLEASE spend some of your Children's inheritance and get some heating in the workshop. 13 C, wooly hat and thick coat is not ideal working conditions. Regards from Australia.

[@howardosborne8647]

Andrew really needs one of the small chinese cabin heaters and run it on red diesel or kerosene heating oil...loads of warmth for little cost.

[@davestephens6582]

Yes have one in my workshop run it on red diesel cheap heat

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Dave - and now its only 9 degrees C in the workshop! I'm getting a Solar and battery installation in a couple of weeks time. In theory that should allow me to charge batteries at a cheaper nightime rate. Then I can use the batteries to run a heater during the day. Any Winter sunshine might even run the mill! All the best.

[@learningturningmetal]

@@howardosborne8647 Hi Howard - the worry I have is that I have to many things to catch fire in the workshop. I just don't trust that type of heater. Maybe I'm being over cautious. Cheers Andrew

[@raymondjackson7982]

@@learningturningmetalbe interested to know about that set up. Perhaps I could use something similar in my garage workshop in good old Lancashire 👍

[@chrisstephens6673]

If you have difficulties with breaking small taps, i have two suggestions. First ignore the "correct" size tapping drill size, read the WPS 12 book on drills and taps by the English Tubal Cain, where you will find a chart giving drill sizes for different thread engagements and a few thoughts on the strength of threaded holes.The other is consider a tapping stand, these keep the taps straight which reduces the likelihood of taps breaking. The best, not necessarily the "correct", hole size and a straight tap can often save the day. Another thought on using your mill, if you keep one corner of your fixed jaw of the vice as abs zero, you really dont need to keep edge finding, just work from that as a zero point. If you say want to drill in the middle of a piece, just dial in half the thickness. For all other locations you can use the multi zero button. So if you have feature in the middle of a part, and want to work from that position just set the dro to zero#1 and zero on that position, abs zero will not be affected so you go back anytime. If you dro is like mine there are 99 "zeros", normally for different tools but work just as well for different features. Such an example might be, if you have to mil a slot with the centre in a given position, you can zero a numbered zero on the centre and go equal amounts sideways, or wieden the slot and equall amount going plus so much and minus so much. And you can go back to ABS anytime. It really saves a yon of of precious playtime.😊

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Chris - many thanks for the advice. I will get hold of the book you mention. My DRO seems very similar to yours. I've used position 1 in the past, but Ireally need to become more proficient in it's use. Thanks for the reminder! Cheers Andrew

[@abbottart2000]

Hello Andrew, Splendid recovery with the broken tap. I usually purchase them 6 at a time because when you least expect it---snap!!!! We all have been there.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Earl - good to hear from you and I hope you are keeping well. All the best. Andrew

[@OL6162.]

Hi ANDREW It seems to be cold in the workshop. This new project starts very well in spite of the issue with the broken tap. You sorted it out fine. 👍👍👍👍👍 Looking forward to next video. All the best Olivier.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Olivier - I'm looking forward to seeing your next video in the warmth of my house. Cheers Andrew

[@OL6162.]

I am making a crusible lifter based on an idea of Myfordboy (@myfordboy). I hope uploading the first video midi december 🤞🤞 Cheers

[@johnvaluk1401]

Thank you for the video Andrew. Looking forward to this build. Looks a bit chilly, we are 29*F today. Keep warm.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks John. Yeah, it's now down to 9 degrees C in the workshop - roll on Spring! Cheers Andrew

[@geraldpepper404]

Glad you got started on this engine it should be an interesting build. Looks a little chilly in the shop. Look forward to following along.

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Gerald - yup it's getting even colder now! 🥶🥶🥶🥶 Cheers Andrew

[@Steviegtr52]

Hi Andrew. My last broken was a 4mm milling cutter. I sympathise with you on doing that. At least you saved the part. Looks like it's going to be a great build. Looking forward to it. Steve.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Steve - and they always seem to break towards the end of the machining process! In theory it should be a straight forward little engine to build. Cheers Andrew

[@terryshaw1138]

Well done Andrew, my V twin is nearing completion but I wouldn't be surprised if your Upshur doesn't beat me to the finish line.....and my workshop's warm !!!

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Terry I hope you get your v-twin running soon. It could be slow progress for me if it gets any colder. Cheers Andrew

[@Barbarossa_67]

Good start to the build. Quick comment on smaller Unified thread sizes: The metric equivalent of 10-32 is M5 and 8-32 is equivalent to M4

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks for the info. To be honest I hedged my bets. Not knowing what it will be used for, I decided to go with the smaller size. Cheers Andrew

[@Bigbigjimbo]

That hole at the bottom is for the filler/drain for the sump any size is ok.

[@nobbysworkshop]

Nice work Andrew. Another big project to take on. You looked very cold. I was in my workshop today, only 6 degrees. Good luck with the build. Cheers Nobby

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks Nobby - it's no fun in the cold. Roll on Spring! Cheers Andrew

[@75Bird455]

Great stuff sir!

[@learningturningmetal]

Thanks mate!

[@Bigbigjimbo]

Yes after a search o found a full list of the thread sizes, yesterday I went to my supplier in Thailand and no small UNC taps or dies so I will hunt on but is see this turning out like a bish bosh of different thread types, the hunt goes on 😂.

[@Bigbigjimbo]

Having started this engine I am progressing fine the only think I am struggling with are the thread sizes of some of the components I just don’t understand the sizing searched for some and the don’t seem to exist obviously something I am getting wrong, however for the housing I will be using M3 using the shallow dome type and on the base the cap heads. I intend to use 8BA for the distributor.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Jim A lot of the American designs use UNC threads. When making my first IC engine I did consider trying to convert to metric threads but I found that some of the UNC sizes fell between some of the metric ones. I knew I would be making more engines designed around UNC so I bit the bullet and purchased the appropriate taps and dies. There are several UNC to metric conversion tables on the internet that might help. Cheers Andrew

[@tsheritageengineering]

Great stuff! Got the plans, going to convert all threads to metric. Just got to source the material now.

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Tony, that's brilliant. I've decided to use CDS for the cylinders which will probably just need a light hone and lapping. It's got an id of 19mm and a wall thickness of 3mm. If my cast iron rings don't work out there is a good fit viton o-ring. You are welcome to 5" of my CDS if you decide to go down a similar route. I could post it or you could drop by if you are near Tadcaster at any time. Cheers Andrew

[@tsheritageengineering]

I am looking at material for the crankcase and I am thinking of using brass instead of steel for the sides for ease of silver soldering

[@tsheritageengineering]

You are always welcome at the Strensall Workshop! @@learningturningmetal

[@learningturningmetal]

@@tsheritageengineering Seems like a good plan.

[@paulrayner4514]

try the alum again, secret is keep it a strong solution and keep it hot but not boiling. will keep your workshop warm too.😁

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Paul - I just hadn't got the patience to try out alum again. Maybe next time. Cheers Andrew

[@JohnSL]

@@learningturningmetal Alum doesn't take that long if you follow the above. I think about an hour, if I remember correctly.

[@roycheetham8872]

Hi Andrew are you using HSS taps or Carbon steel ones. If you use only HSS you should have fewer breakages. Hope this helps best regards Roy

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Roy - I use HSS. I suppose it's not too bad a record just breaking two so far. The annoying thing is that they only seem to break towords the end of the machining process! All the best. Andrew

[@dermotkelly2289]

Great job Andy. Did you clamp the 2 pieces together to drill and ream the holes to line up the pins?

[@learningturningmetal]

Hi Dermot - not sure what you are referring to regarding 'pins'. I just used super glue to hold the two parts together when reaming the holes for the camshaft and crankshaft bearings. All the best. Andrew

[@dermotkelly2289]

Sorry I meant did you machine the 2 squares together and drill and ream them? Otherwise, It's hard to line the plates up to get a parallel true fit . Sorry about that mate@@learningturningmetal

[@learningturningmetal]

@@dermotkelly2289 I did! 😉

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

As always, Your video gets lots of attention. Can You handle a joke Andrew? I suggest You soon go for building an engine that produces heating instead of mechanical work..... You're dressed for a north pole expedition. Was recently out flying the drone in minus 2 Celsius and the flight was short...... Great rescue from the broken tap!

[@learningturningmetal]

Ha ha Stefan - what a great idea! Cheers Andrew