Thanks for the video Andrew. My SC2 came with a read-out, but the lathe without - so I've been looking for a cheaper alternative to forking out between £120 and £140 for one. This was just the ticket and, like you, while I have a coding background it was great to find a good starting point, particularly decoding the data signal from the lathe. New subscriber. Karl.

Great video Andrew, thank you. I just got some drawings for this engine. The outside edge of the tapper seems very, very close to breaking into the tapped holes, like 1 thou clearance if you hit the dimensions shown. I guess you just keep cutting the taper unit one cut before it looks like they will break through lol.

Love your dog, can’t get over the hurt look as you got up and walked away from him. Great videos I have made a 10H and a 10V after being inspired by you.

Hi Andrew, welcome back. I thought maybe you had taken the BSA Bantam for a whirlwind tour of the British Isles but the explanation of the DIY projects brought me back to reality. Dick B USA

Great to see you doing some model engineering again Andrew!

Fascinating as ever. It is always interesting to hear you describe your thinking and workings to resolve problems. I admire your patience with those grooves. I think I might have gone with a rotary cutter of suitable diameter to cut the slots and radii. Good to see you back in the workshop.

Hi what triggers the hall sensor, is it a magnet if so where is it located

Great Job Andrew, Maybe a Dermal might help tidy the cooling fins up?? Good to see you back :)

Hi ANDREW why don't you use your cnc router to cut the cooling fins ? A rought cut with an endmill and a finishing pass with a ballnose cutter. It'd be interesting.. Make a try on a piece of wood first....😜😜 BFN OLIVIER

We also use Flightradar24 great fun to track and identify planes over us in real time. That's a very detailed part Andrew. I can understand how long it took to machine. Always enjoy your detailed explanations. ATB Nobby

Hello Andrew, it's good to see you back. Sometimes we all need to take a break from a current project. You are correct thinking it would be better to wait to machine the valve seats until after the valve guides have been installed. Mr. Upshur designed a small tool to do this, and it is included with his plans for other engines. I made mine using .312 water hardened drill rod with a pin the exact diameter as the valve stems and it worked well. I think Mr. Britnell's design is similar. Good luck.

Angle Plate, V-Blocks and a slitting saw. Definitely quicker, and better finish? Good to see you back.

You can of course fit the Myford type vertical slide to your lathe. A look on the Warco website at say the WM 240B lathe will show you how they fit their version of it to that lathe with an adaptor plate. This sort of plate you will require because the Myford T slots run at right angles to your T slots. So you may need to draw up your own adaptor plate along those lines, unless Warco make one that fits? There are two versions of the Warco hold down plate, one with 55 x 100 hole centres & the other with 56.5 x 115 centres. Nice to see you back.

Very nice work sir. You are setting high standards. I get your situation. I’m very much in the same. Juggling to keep videos coming as well as doing bits around the house. It’s hard to get to every thing. He he

Great engine build. Where did you put the magnet for the hall sensor

I use the Rcexl spark plugs as well as the Rcexl ignitions on my models. Never an issue.

yiu will be having mi6 knocking on your door soon , wanting to know if you are a russian spy

Hi Andrew, nice to see you back! I think you may be able to make the cooling fins with a slitting saw. Rich

good to see your return

exellent andrew, im making the same engine following you thanks..

I have recently bought one of these blow torches and the fault is the gas valve knob appears to have not fully close, this resulted in a accident to property. The flame was out from what I could see but there must of been a faint kind of invisible flame still present. First Rothenberger's response was to take it up with the retailer, I remind them of their manufacturer's responsibilities and the fact that property has been damaged as a result of a faulty product. The product is going to be returned for manufacturer testing.

Hi Andrew, are you OK, not heard owt from you for a while 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Dónde puedo encontrar los planos de ese motor

Hi great video of your work and your learning curve. I am in a similar position to you and appreciate your honesty! I bet I to hers have said, or you’ve found it yourself but Joe Pie (Austin Texas) shows in fantastic detail exactly how to bore the same casting perpendicular to the flange which is lined up parallel to the feet. He bored on the lathe, which is how I will tackle my casting later this month. His is a twin cylinder so to me that would double my chance of error! But Joe is a great teacher.

Hi Andrew, I know this an old video now, but I believe the reason your cutter broke is because it is an End Mill. They are not designed to plunge cut as they are ground with relief in the centre. When you plunge it will leave a small pip sticking up so when you start your X feed this is what broke your cutter. You need some Slot Mills - they are designed to plunge ie for blind slots such as this keyway. The teeth on the bottom are different length, so no pip.... I enjoy your videos very much, you do fine work. I had the benefit of a Toolmaking apprenticeship many years ago. Hope this helps. I am retired now and just about to have a go at this lovely little engine...

Hi Andrew, found your channel whilst spending the night in a premier inn in York before attending a motorcycle training day. I’ve just bought a sherline lathe and mill 15 years after I had to sell my Wabeco. Looking forward to catching up on several years of your videos. All the best David

Lovey job on the engine.can you tell me the gauge of the HT lead wire.and how you fixed it to the plug please.

When measuring what to take off either end do you take into account the position of the ports? Say if the ports arent cast exactly in the center and are slightly to one side. i messed my first cylinder up and im now over thinking everything. Long time lingerer, love your channel. alex.

Superfire 2s are great lol havent had 1 issue with mine ever fires first time every time

Hi Andrew. Hope you are well looking forward to your next video. I am just about to start on the hoglet. All down to your series of videos

Nice video! Nice work!

When are you going to do another steam engine Cheers Russ

Same problem. I took the bottle off to transport safely and when I put it back on in leaked no matter what I did. I thought maybe a seal washer had dropped out unnoticed when I took the bottle off, but in view of what you've said. It's a classic case of a rotten company who don't give a damn about the consumer or the planet. WIll let you know if they get back to me with anything useful, but not expecting much. Shame because I'd been very happy with it up until now.

Great video Andrew. Can you tell me what drawing package you’re using. Thanks

pliz where you buy your glasses ehhh

Had a gas leak on mine too, its leaking out of the pressure relief hole, where your middle finger goes when you hold it and its unrepairable unless you dismantle the body. As this type of torch has been copied (design flaws and all) by other manufacturers and are selling for just over £20, I am not going to spend £65+ on another one as so many people are having problems with gas leakage. Also as the service kit costs more than a new copy torch and won't repair the leakage I have, it is pointless to get one. So for me, its buy a copy torch and throw it away when it starts leaking, rinse and repeat. Definitely not buying another rothenberger every time it starts to leak.

Hi Andrew Nice video series, appreciate it! What did the trick, beside the imperfect hob? The resistors in the encoder lines? Assumingly it was not the change to the closed loop stepper? (Andy‘s hobbing attachment also works with standard stepper?) …i am facing the same problem with synchronization, but would like to avoid a massive change in setup… any tip?

Looking and running good. Very nice work. You should be proud.

Andrew, sorry for commenting late because I'm a bit behind on watching KZbin videos: O-rings have relatively large manufacturing tolerances, so depending on 0.001-inch fits/clearances may cause problems. However, I haven't actually compared the actual sizes of known-high-quality O-rings to the O-Ring Handbook to see how close the actual O-rings really are to listed sizes. The smallest O-rings in the "Parker O-Ring Handbook" have an ID tolerance of ±0.004 inches (±0,10 mm) and a "width" tolerance of ±0.003 inches (±0,08 mm). The larger the O-ring, the larger the tolerances. The Parker O-Ring Handbook is a free download as a PDF on the Parker site under O-ring literature. The Handbook document number is "ORD-5700." I simply searched (using Google ["verbatim search," I think]) for "o-ring handbook" and it was the first link in my search results. I *assume* that Parker is an international company, but if not, I'm sure that you have equivalent quality O-ring manufacturers on your side of the pond and they probably have equivalent Handbooks available for download too. This handbook can be really useful because it goes into the details of designing proper O-ring grooves, material compatibilities, etc.

Happens to us all Andrew. I've been going through a bad patch of mistakes recently. The pistons turned out fine in the end anyway. Looking forward to the next bit. ATB Nobby

Hi, The "offset" holes were to give clearance to the cylinder wall, ha ha. thanks for the video. cheers John

Great video thank you for making it.

Your explanation of O ring fitting was really helpful. I have never known what the right fit is. As ever your honesty when things go wrong is greatly appreciated. We all have those moments and it is always interesting to see solutions. I have not even been able to start building a workshop at the new house so I am enjoying getting a vicarious engineering hit via your videos for now.

I’d use your cnc mill to profile these 👍

Gday Andrew, is class the extra holes are for weight reduction😉, nice work mate

Andrew, just a thought for the future if making more pistons. You had such a long length sticking out of the collet and you machined a long length to size to make 2 pistons. You were extremely lucky that the parting tool did not grab and throw the rest of the bar out of true when doing the first one. I suggest next time only have enough sticking out for the first one and part off, them pull out more bar and do the second one. I know that it woukd mean 2 lots of turning to diameter, but you would get a better finish with less stickout. If you had had a parting tool jam, you would have needed to redo the turning operation again anyway. The other option would have been to use a revolving center, you were hollowing out the end anyway so you would have needed a center drilled hole. Regards from Australia.

I am sure they will be ok. Like you said the piston is open at the bottom anyway. Steve.

It happens to all of us. With an engine that I’m building now I did the same thing with the piston and being a new machine discovered that I needed to go farther to get the backlash out of it. That was a culprit for me anyway. I wasn’t taking all the backlash out. I have been machining since I was a young man and I’m in my 60s. So live and learn. Coming along nice Andrew looking forward to the next video.

Splendid save with the misdrilled holes Andrew. Would it have made a great difference leaving them open as they would have been behind the rings? Maybe helping reduce the mass of the pistons?

that sucks 🙂 cheers ben.