Hello Andrew, I have been watching your great video's because I encounter similar problems with my hobbing machine. Altough I think you nailed some issues (rigidity) I think there could be some other problems. I believe my hobbing machine suffers also from magnetic interference. I have seen extra pulses and a variabel rpm readings (+/- 5 rpm by 480 rpm's spindle setting) on the screen of the arduino (I saw it on your machine also). But not always! Of all the gears I made aprox. 10% where really perfect. The others suffers from the same problems you have/had. The perfect one's had a very stable rpm reading on the arduino screen. I tested if the rpm reading was influenced by wiring issues. With all the cables earth grounded, I still got the same results. I measured the signal of the ground cable with a scope and saw a little noise. It is not completely 0V. When I isolated the encoder by a plastic frame and disconnected all ground cables from the whole system I got different and better results. But still not good enough. When I take a ground wire and slide it along the metal of the mill (mill was not turning), there where some rpm reading on the arduino. The same happens when I carefully slide the housing of the encoder against the metal milling machine without turning the the shaft of the encoder. In both cases the hobbing machine starts moving a little. Finding this problem and solving it is my free time nightmare. I still have not solved it. Besides the above there is another problem with all stepper motors. When you try to move a stepper motor by hand (system powered up), there is some movement possible. The magnetic force in the unloaded situation is low. It grows when you try to turn the rotor. This is something we cannot change, but must be taken into account. It can results in perfect shapes of teeth, but with less wider teeth. This problem is offcourse not the same as synchronisation problems. So, now I am trying the closed loop steppermotor option hoping the result will get better. I hope to adress this problem because it is a very nice feature.

Hello Andrew, many thanks for your great videos on this build. I am just staring this engine myself and the information you have provided will be extremely useful.

Hi Andrew. Are you ok? Are you still making videos?

I have never used a lathe or milling machine but would love to make these parts for my engine. Any ideas on the bare minimum equipment to complete the task.

Living in disposable society everything now like disposable razor

I bought 2 Bernzomatic TS 8000 torches years ago. I bought 2 so I would have a backup. It's been used a decent amount and I've probably put through 2 mapp gas bottles and 4 coleman 1 lb bottles. It's never given one ounce of trouble and it's been a fantastic torch getting used regularly. I start my wood heater with it every morning in the cooler months. It's a brilliant tool and although its been completely reliable I'm glad to have a brand new one in reserve if it ever fails as I wouldn't like to be without one.

Would you consider sharing your 3D image as a STL file? I am beginning to work on the Farmboy engine and I can see the value in having the model of the engine to work from. Thanks.

I've just fallen into the same trap, bought the service kit expecting it would rectify the leak. It DIDN'T FIX IT, and to top it off, the new regulator valve seized solid after half a turn. I am only a light user and only went through 1 cylinder in about 5 years, I don't think I got my monies worth. :( I'm just going to buy a cheap Chinese one after this experience and ensure I take the cylinder off when not in use. I expect it will be rubbish but so was the Rothenberger one in my opinion!

I watched both these builds Andrew, they both came out fantastic. I have both sets of plans, would you mind telling me, in your opinion which one is the easiest to build?

I've been trading as a plumber for 20 years and have two of these torches, one for twenty years and the other for about fifteen years. I've just start getting a leak on one of them so I would recommend them. Ive not yet heard anyone in the merchants saying negative things about their either. I think with all products and services there will always be the ones that don't turn out as hoped.

You didn't show it, so if you didn't do it, you should de-burr before checking the fit, otherwise you could accidentally make the recess oversize.

Why did you feel the need to have the grub screw at an angle? Why do you make things complicated.?

Had the same issue with mine. Worked well while used intensively but left it unused for a while and got this annoying problem. Gas escapes though the vent hole. Plugged the hole and worked well for a while but couldn't stop the leak completely so I had to remove the can every time when not used. There is no way you can disassemble it to replace stuff inside so bought another brand.

Send that flywheel back and tell them not to mess you about.Stuarts are taking the piss lately and have sent me some unacceptable castings .I sent them a letter informing them I was a customer not a mug.

My suggestion would be to provide ventilation to stepper driver if u have mounted in your custom 3d printer case since heatsink of driver may damage ur casing some other time. Since current[torque] depending upon the load u place on turn table. Thus current is drawn from driver. So decide accordingly & provide ventilation with the help of fan and ventilation holes on box. Use seperate power adapter for fan.Since it's emi may affect the microcontroller.

Una pregunta Que hay que tener en cuenta para hacer un anillo de pistón que medidas hace falta saber

Also a (south) Yorkshireman, have i got this right.. you're basically running Andy's setup but with 2 17bit rotary encoders and the numbers updated for the extra encoder positions?

Well done you it looks a lovely model

Great videos- especially showing the oopsie's (we all do them, but don't confess to them) I see them as opportunities. The parallels!! I put a coil spring between them - it helps keep them vertical when putting the part in the vise, and I suppose a strong enough one would prevent the parallel from sliding.

You are drilling a hole for Christ sake WHY ALL THE BLEEDING FUSS.

Look at your flimsy setting up on your mill,and you are insisting on being ACCURATE,SO ANNOYING.

Hi, I just watched the play list of this build and what a fantastic job you did. You overcame the problems along the way and we all learn from our mistakes which we all make. My old boss used to say " If you don't make mistakes you don't do any work" Well done on the build. Best regards..Terry..

They cheep out that part , the original design call for two have nuts , the mechanism has everything there but the other half nut.

Hi which fuel do you use now

gonna miss your video,s andrew ! hope you gonna make a comeback ? cheers ben

Thanks Andrew for you reply on the Ear method of piston ring make. I just found on Facebook

Hi Andrew. Great video thank you. I am building a Farm boy and I am a bit confused. I assume the ring in the plans 1" OD x 0.094 is a R-14 13/16 x 3/32 ring. The OD of the o-ring is exactly the same size as the bore and the slot is oversize in both dimensions compare to the ring section. This seems to imply the ring will be very loose in the bore with no wall pressure at all. Have I missed something or is that how it is meant to be? Thanks.

You made the comment the method was "Earl's USA" can you list that method, I can't find any reference to it. thank you.

You mention the "Earl" method from USA for making piston rings, can you publish or tell me where to find it? Thanks. Ron

Just bought a B175 registered in Oct 1971.

Why not build yourself a "stop" for your vise?

Thanks for the video Andrew. My SC2 came with a read-out, but the lathe without - so I've been looking for a cheaper alternative to forking out between £120 and £140 for one. This was just the ticket and, like you, while I have a coding background it was great to find a good starting point, particularly decoding the data signal from the lathe. New subscriber. Karl.

Great video Andrew, thank you. I just got some drawings for this engine. The outside edge of the tapper seems very, very close to breaking into the tapped holes, like 1 thou clearance if you hit the dimensions shown. I guess you just keep cutting the taper unit one cut before it looks like they will break through lol.

Love your dog, can’t get over the hurt look as you got up and walked away from him. Great videos I have made a 10H and a 10V after being inspired by you.

Hi Andrew, welcome back. I thought maybe you had taken the BSA Bantam for a whirlwind tour of the British Isles but the explanation of the DIY projects brought me back to reality. Dick B USA

Great to see you doing some model engineering again Andrew!

Fascinating as ever. It is always interesting to hear you describe your thinking and workings to resolve problems. I admire your patience with those grooves. I think I might have gone with a rotary cutter of suitable diameter to cut the slots and radii. Good to see you back in the workshop.

Hi what triggers the hall sensor, is it a magnet if so where is it located

Great Job Andrew, Maybe a Dermal might help tidy the cooling fins up?? Good to see you back :)

Hi ANDREW why don't you use your cnc router to cut the cooling fins ? A rought cut with an endmill and a finishing pass with a ballnose cutter. It'd be interesting.. Make a try on a piece of wood first....😜😜 BFN OLIVIER

We also use Flightradar24 great fun to track and identify planes over us in real time. That's a very detailed part Andrew. I can understand how long it took to machine. Always enjoy your detailed explanations. ATB Nobby

Hello Andrew, it's good to see you back. Sometimes we all need to take a break from a current project. You are correct thinking it would be better to wait to machine the valve seats until after the valve guides have been installed. Mr. Upshur designed a small tool to do this, and it is included with his plans for other engines. I made mine using .312 water hardened drill rod with a pin the exact diameter as the valve stems and it worked well. I think Mr. Britnell's design is similar. Good luck.

Angle Plate, V-Blocks and a slitting saw. Definitely quicker, and better finish? Good to see you back.

You can of course fit the Myford type vertical slide to your lathe. A look on the Warco website at say the WM 240B lathe will show you how they fit their version of it to that lathe with an adaptor plate. This sort of plate you will require because the Myford T slots run at right angles to your T slots. So you may need to draw up your own adaptor plate along those lines, unless Warco make one that fits? There are two versions of the Warco hold down plate, one with 55 x 100 hole centres & the other with 56.5 x 115 centres. Nice to see you back.

Very nice work sir. You are setting high standards. I get your situation. I’m very much in the same. Juggling to keep videos coming as well as doing bits around the house. It’s hard to get to every thing. He he

Great engine build. Where did you put the magnet for the hall sensor

I use the Rcexl spark plugs as well as the Rcexl ignitions on my models. Never an issue.

yiu will be having mi6 knocking on your door soon , wanting to know if you are a russian spy

Hi Andrew, nice to see you back! I think you may be able to make the cooling fins with a slitting saw. Rich

good to see your return